Almost Heaven Saunas Barrel Saunas Operating instructions

Barrel Saunas
Standard Barrel
Canopy Barrel
Ellipse Barrel
Installation &
Owner’s Manual
Revised January 3, 2011

CHECK YOUR BOXES
Be sure to immediately check your boxes against your shipping list and bill of lading. Examine for any damage and
report it to the shipping company immediately. Notify your dealer or Almost Heaven Saunas if there needs to be a
repair or replacement of damaged or missing materials.
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
All electrical wiring must be performed by A QUALIFIED LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Because of the heat involved
in the sauna, it is required that you use copper wire with 90ºC insulation. Do not use aluminum wire to make the
connection. Consult with an electrician so you can determine the requirements for your particular situation. All
wiring must conform to all national, state and local codes and regulations.
LOCATING THE SAUNA
Because the customary sauna experience involves a heating-cooling-resting regimen, it is important to plan ahead
before installing your sauna. Our method of construction affords the widest number of possible choices because an
Almost Heaven Sauna room can be placed in either an indoor or outdoor setting.
You will probably shower during or after each sauna bath, so consider having a shower installed nearby. Besides
the shower, you may want to have a lounging area set aside for relaxing after your sauna bath. Make sure the floor
or ground is level and can support the weight of the sauna (which can exceed 1,000 lbs. when filled with people). A
reinforced concrete pad or wood deck is always best for outdoor installations, and be sure that the surface you use
is both level and firm. Verify that both the inlet and outlet vents will remain unobstructed. For indoor installations be
sure that both vents open into the same room or space.
STAVE SELECTION
While Almost Heaven Saunas use only high-grade, clear lumber, there will still be variations in the appearance of
the lumber. Grain, color and slight blemishes in the wood will vary, and while these are of a cosmetic nature only,
you may want to select where you place the different staves. For example, you may want to place a stave with a
blemish on the floor of the sauna beneath the benches, etc.
BASIC TOOLS
You should have the following tools:
• Wrench-adjustable, box, open end (10mm, 3/4", 1/2” and 7/16”)
• Cordless drill for driving screws
• Rubber Mallet
• Claw hammer
• Sandpaper – 120 Grit
• Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead)
• Framing Square
• 5/16” drill bit Pencil
• Utility knife
• Level
• 3/16” drill bit
To help speed up the installation, substitute deep well socket wrenches for the 3/4”,1/2”, and 7/16” wrenches
and a reversible power drill for the screwdrivers.
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Read this entire manual through to the end before proceeding with the assembly.

To help speed up the installation, substitute a deep well socket wrench for the ¾” wrench and a reversible
power drill for the screwdrivers.
FIRST CONSIDERATIONS
When you begin the initial layout for assembly, it is very important to check your floor or deck to see if it is level. Most
garage floors, basement floors, and decks are sloped for drainage. If this is the case in your installation, it is suggested
that you use shims to make the sauna level. Failure to do this can result in unplumbed panels, poor fit and or poor
function of your sauna.
OUTDOOR INSTALLATION RECOMMENDATIONS
• Take caution to prevent the wind from catching and breaking the glass door.
•
••
• Do not install boards with knots on the top of the sauna where water could accumulate and freeze, causing the
board to split.
ROOM ASSEMBLY
Before beginning the assembly, unpack all of the staves and identify the drain stave, which will be the first one used. It
has a hole cut into its center. As you examine the staves, you will notice that each end has a croze on its inside face.
The croze is the square cut groove into which the sauna end panels fit. (See Figure 1)
Begin the assembly by placing the cradle bases on the floor or foundation. (See Figure 1). Anchor bolt holes are pro-
vided in the cradles for mounting to the deck if you are in a windy location. You can bolt the sauna to the pad once the
sauna assembly is completed.
Place a cradle base at each end of the sauna so that it is 4 inches in from the end of the stave. This will facilitate proper
placement of the stainless steel bands. For the 8’ models, the third cradle section should be placed in the center (do not
block the drain hole). Be sure the cradle bases are parallel to each other. Keeping everything level an square is very
important to insure proper assembly and function.
Place the drain stave exactly in the center of the cradle base to provide
good drainage. Lay out additional staves on each side of the drain stave
to each end of the cradle base. Using a framing square, make sure that all the staves
are square to the cradle and that the croze is lined up on all pieces. Use a rubber mal-
let to gentle tap the staves together and then screw every other bottom stave to the base
with 2 inch stainless steel torque screws as shown in Figure 1 using one screw per board
into each cradle base.
At this point, uncrate the front and back ends and place them in the croze on each end of the assembly (See Figure 1).
Use a level to be sure that the vertical boards on the end assembly are perfectly vertical, and that the horizontal brace
boards holding the vertical boards together are facing the inside of the sauna. Using your level, check the horizontal
boards on the insides of both ends to be sure that you have the panels plumb. The vent hole is to be on the BOTTOM
on the back (heater) end, and at the TOP on the door end of the sauna.
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Note for Canopy Barrel:
The croze cut-out for the front wall section on the Canopy Barrel is located 24” back from the front edge of the
sauna.
Figure 1
Countersunk
Stainless

With the bottom staves
screwed to the cradle
bases, and the front and
back ends placed into the
croze, begin alternately
placing staves up the sides
of sauna. Tap each board
firmly to the next with a
rubber mallet, and hammer
a nail every 3 boards to
keep them from falling out.
The nails will be hidden by
the bands, but the fewer
nails you use now, the
easier it will be if you ever
need to dismantle and
move the sauna. You
should stop using nails
half-way up the sides.
When you come to the point of closing the assembly you will find that the space left over may not be equal to a whole stave.
We have provided a final stave set cut into various widths, (See Figure 2). If necessary, use the correct combination of
pieces to provide the tightest fit. Install by tilting out the adjacent staves, placing the final stave, and pushing back into place.
It is important that you use as many staves and fillers as you can prior to tightening the stainless bands in order to create as
tight a seal as possible. Since the bands, when tightened, will draw the staves to the end sections, it is best to have enough
staves in place so that those from approximately the 10 o-clock to 2 o-clock positions are actually spread away from the
end sections prior to tightening the bands. It will seem like you have too many staves in place, but this is good as the bands
will then draw them down and tight to the end
sections for the best possible seal.
Figure 1—Base Assembly
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Screw staves to cradles
NOTE: While your Barrel Sauna is designed for outdoor use, it is important to build the sauna in accordance with these instructions to
minimize water seepage into the sauna. Properly installed, water will not drip into the sauna. However, over time water may seep
between the staves due to the porous nature of softwood. This will not hurt the sauna and will quickly evaporate once the sauna heater
is turned on. If full water proofing is desired, shingles or other roofing material can be installed on the top section of the Barrel Sauna.

BAND ASSEMBLY
Each of the Band Assemblies are made of the following components:
(1) Stainless Steel Bands with brackets
(2) 1/2” Nuts
(2) Black vinyl caps
(1) 4-3/4” Threaded Rod
Place bands with pre-assembled brackets around sauna, spaced evenly apart. The two end bands should cover the
nails you used to hold the staves in place during assembly. Insert threaded rod through the bracket. Tighten nuts
evenly so that the bands are of equal tension. Before tightening nuts, check to make sure bands are still even. Tighten
nuts and install black vinyl thread protectors. (See Figure 3) You may place the brackets at the same level or vary them
at different heights depending on your styling preference.
Figure 3 - Band Assembly
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DOOR HANDLE/TOWEL BAR
The door handle/towel bar assembly will consist of the following components:
(2) Door handles (1) Binding nut
(2) Short round spacers (1) Long machine screw
(2) Long round spacers (2) Wood screws
Locate the single hole in the glass door. Push the long machine screw through one of the pre-drilled handles,
through a long round spacer, through the glass, through another long round spacer and then through the other pre-
drilled handle. Turn the long machine screw into the binding nut but don’t fully tighten. With a level, position each
of the handles so that they are horizontal and then screw the end of the handles into the hinge board that is at-
tached to the glass door with the wood screws. Now tighten the long machine screw into the binding nut. TAKE
CARE THAT YOU DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREW AND BINDING NUT OR ALLOW THE WOOD
SCREWS TO HIT THE GLASS. BROKEN GLASS IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
Door Handle Assembly
Door Handle Assembly
Note for Canopy Barrel:
Position one band each around where the two wall end sections attach. Place the third band equal distance be-
tween these two bands. Place the fourth band 3” back from the front of the sauna around the exterior sitting area.

HEATER
Mount the heater as shown in the manufacturer's instructions. The heater should be positioned between the seats on the
back end wall and no lower than 6-1/2 inches from the floor. The lower the heater is, the hotter the temperature will be at
the benches. All the necessary hardware is supplied with the heater. Do not attempt to wire the heater yourself. Contact a
licensed electrician in accordance with your local electrical codes.
NOTE: Use the 1/4” x 1-1/4” Stainless Steel Lags provided for mounting the heater.
Figure 5 - Seat Installation
Center Seat Support
Wall Cleat
Use torque screws
SEATS & SUPPORTS
Each barrel sauna includes two pre-assembled benches. Lay the benches on the lower cleats mounted on each end
wall section. Position the benches so that the pre-drilled holes cover the cleat and screw the bench into place. Install
center supports (on 6' and 8' models) as shown in illustration. Be sure to sink screw heads below the surface so you will
not burn yourself while using sauna. (See Figure 5). The Ellipse Sauna includes to contoured back supports. Place
the spacers against the installed bench seats and screw the back supports to the sauna walls. (See Figure 5A)
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Note for Canopy Barrel:
Assemble the exterior benches as shown below in the
same way you assembled the interior seats and trim.
You will attach an exterior seat wall cleat to the sauna
wall, using a level to insure that the seat is level.
Seat Support
Wall Cleat
Figure 5A - Back Support Installation
(Ellipse Sauna only)
Spacer
Back Support
Use torque screws
Note for Ellipse Barrel
The Ellipse Barrel Sauna has duckboard flooring sec-
tions. Place the first section at the door and work
back toward the heater.
Duckboard Floor Section

HEATER FENCE ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION
The Heater Fence is necessary to ensure that bathers in the sauna do not accidentally contact parts of the heater that
would burn them. It consists of four precut, vertically notched posts and six horizontal rails that must be assembled
before it is installed to the wall adjacent to the heater.
The vertical fence posts have slots cut into them for the rails. The two vertical fence posts that go against the wall have
slots on just one face, as well as counter-bored screw holes for attaching them to the sauna wall. The two fence posts
that sit away from the wall will have slots cut into two of their faces.
Note the beveled ends on the fence rails that go into the corner posts. The ends of the rails that go into the fence
posts that attach to the wall are square. Assemble the fence before attaching it to the wall by placing the rails into the
slots in the posts and using the supplied 1” nails as shown in Figure 6. You may want to put a small amount of glue
into the slots. Be sure to nail at an angle so that the points will not go through the post. Countersink all nails.
Once the fence is assembled, attach it to the wall behind the heater using the supplied wood screws.
LIGHT
Have a licensed electrician mount and wire the light fixture (on a separate circuit) into the electrical box mounted in the
sauna’s back wall.
Do not install your light switch inside the sauna. Rather, install the switch inline on either the outside of the sauna, in
the house or in some other exterior location. If a switch is desired inside the sauna, then it is recommended that you
order the special light upgrade from Almost Heaven Saunas that has an integral switch. No special type of light bulb is
required, but the heat of the sauna will shorten the life of a normal bulb. An appliance bulb, such as those used in a
kitchen oven, will last longer than a standard bulb. Most people prefer subtle, low wattage lighting in the sauna. Do
not exceed the wattage recommended by the light’s manufacturer.
Figure 6 - Heater Fence Assembly
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TREATING THE SAUNA
Western Canadian Red Cedar is naturally resistant to the elements. Left untreated, the exterior of an outdoor sauna
will eventually become silvery-gray in color, and it is fine to let the sauna weather naturally in this way. At any point in
the future you can pressure wash (low pressure only!) your sauna to bring back most of the original red cedar color.
If you want to retain the rich, natural color of the red cedar, your local paint store can recommend an outdoor stain for
red cedar. A clear stain will retain the full natural color of the cedar. Be sure that it has a UV inhibitor in the stain so
that it will best resist the effects of sunlight. Be sure to follow the directions from the stain manufacturer for application
instructions. Never treat the inside of the sauna, and never use varnish or paint on the exterior of the sauna.
OPERATION
After the sauna has been installed, sweep down the inside to remove any sawdust and wood shavings, and then
vacuum completely. Using a damp cloth and warm water, wipe down the entire sauna including the benches to re-
move any remaining dirt, dust and debris. Rinse off the sauna rocks and install them in the heater in accordance with
the heater manufacturer’s instructions. Improper placement of heater rocks can result in lower than desired heat tem-
peratures. Turn the heater on to the maximum setting and operate it for about 30 minutes with the door propped open.
Then close the door and allow your sauna to come up to the desired temperature.
If the sauna wood has absorbed moisture in storage, the staves may become loose after the intense heat causes the
wood to cure. It may be necessary to retighten the stainless steel bands periodically if this occurs. The red cedar will
swell, especially if left in the open rain, and this will further tighten the seal of the wood.
The controls of the sauna heater are mounted at the bottom of the heater. The right dial is the temperature setting and
the left dial is the combined timer on-off switch. Please refer to the manual that came with your heater for full heater
operational instructions
When operating the heater, always begin by turning the timer fully clockwise. The heater should come on as indicated
by the light, and operate for one hour and then shut off automatically.
Since you most likely will use your sauna as both a "wet sauna" and a "dry sauna", you should install the sauna rocks
that have been included with the heater, following the manufacturers instructions. These stones are necessary if water
will be sprinkled on the heater to create the "wet sauna", and they will produce more consistent heating in the dry
mode (without the use of water). It is common for a stone to occasionally crack during initial heating. If excess
amounts of water are used during sauna, prop door open for 30 minutes after use to let the humidity escape.
The amount of ventilation in the sauna can be adjusted by means of the vent located toward the top of the sauna near
the door. It is important to have adequate fresh air flowing through the sauna, and this flow can be adjusted with the
movable vent cover. If the sauna is located outdoors you should keep the vent closed when the sauna is not in use to
prevent insects and rodents from entering the sauna.
ELECTRICAL
Typical wiring requirements for up to 30 feet distance from the breaker box are as follows:
• 4.5kw and 6.0kw heaters require 10-2 w/ground, copper only wire, and 30amp non-GFCI breaker.
• 8.0kw heaters require 8-2 w/ground, copper wire only, and 40amp non-GFCI breaker.
NOTE: All wiring must be done by a licensed electrician according to national and local electrical codes. Be sure to
check the instructions on your particular heater to verify electrical requirements as your heater may have been pur-
chased from a different source than Almost Heaven Saunas.
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DOOR HINGE ADJUSTMENT
The tension on the sauna door hinges needs to be set in order for the door to close on its own. Look for the small hinge
box that is included with your sauna kit. The hinges have been installed on the sauna, but the box contains both the hex
wrench and set pins needed to adjust your door tension.
After the sauna is assembled, and with the door closed, take the hex wrench and insert it in the top of the hinge. Once
the wrench is fitted into the hex opening, turn the hex wrench clockwise (toward the wood wall and away from the glass)
to tighten the hinge tension. You will feel the tension as you tighten. While leaving the hex wrench inserted and the ten-
sion held in place, insert the set pin into the hinge as shown. Repeat the process with the other hinge as each hinge
must be tightened to the same degrees of tension.
The door should close gently on its own without slamming shut. If it does not, then repeat the process to each hinge to
increase the tension further. Save the hex wrench in case future tightening is needed.
ACCESSORIES
• Mount the thermometer on the opposite wall as the heater and no lower than 6" from the peak of the ceiling.
• A wooden bucket and ladle are provided for you to sprinkle water over the hot sauna rocks.
• Mount the optional robe hook and magazine rack where desired.
• Optional accessory items are available from Almost Heaven Saunas.
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Tighten tension and insert set pin Once set pin is in place, remove wrench
Almost Heaven Saunas, LLC
Mailing Address Shipping Address
P.O. Box 190 HC66, Box 465-A
Macatawa, MI 49434 Highway 219 North
Renick, WV 24966
Sales 888-355-3050
Fax [phone]
Service 304-497.3991
Email [e-mail]
Web www.almostheaven.com

TAKING A SAUNA BATH
The sauna as we know it comes from Finland. Taking a sauna bath induces excessive perspiration, which cleanses the
skin. It stimulates circulation and reduces muscular tension. It can also be an excellent relaxational or social activity.
Not to be confused with a steam bath, a sauna is a dry heat bath. The relative humidity rarely exceeds 30% even in a
wet sauna. This is because the sauna is made of porous wood and absorbs moisture. This makes higher temperatures
more tolerable.
Shown below are the steps that are involved in taking a traditional bath. You may or may not want to adhere to this
regimen.
TRADITIONAL STEPS IN TAKING A SAUNA BATH
STEP #1 - Set your heater so that the sauna room achieves the desired temperature, usually between 150º F and 170º
F. As a novice, you should begin at the lower end of this range and work your way up to the higher temperatures over
several sauna baths.
STEP #2 - Remove all clothing (except maybe your swimsuit), eyeglasses, contact lenses, jewelry, etc. Take a quick
shower with warm water and soap, or a quick dip in your hot tub.
STEP #3 - Enter the sauna initially for about 5 to 15 minutes. Bring a towel into the sauna onto which you can sit or lay.
Leave the sauna room once you have begun to perspire freely.
STEP #4 - Now you may take a cold plunge in your swimming pool, shower or snow bank. After that, relax and cool
down for another 10 to 20 minutes.
STEP #5 - Re-enter the sauna. On this return visit you may wish to sprinkle small amounts of water onto the rocks
creating bursts of steam. If the water spills through the heater and onto the floor, you are using too much, although this
will not hurt the heater or the sauna.
STEP #6 - After your final visit to the sauna, relax for at least 20 minutes. Shower with soap and warm water. Finish
your shower with cooler water to close the pores of your skin. Dress only after you have cooled down completely.
NOTE: Whatever your sauna regimen, it is important that you keep your self hydrated by drinking plenty of water!
MAINTAINING YOUR SAUNA
Inside the sauna, certain areas will eventually darken due to normal use and the effects of perspiration. This can be
minimized, but not eliminated. Occasionally scrub down the inside with baking soda and water to remove the odor and
stains of perspiration. Light sanding can also be effective but should be kept to a minimum.
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