Almost Heaven Saunas Standard Barrel Installation instructions

Barrel Saunas
Standard Barrel
Canopy Barrel
Grandview Barrel
Rustic Barrel
Huntington Barrel
Installation &
Owner’s Manual
Revised September 2016

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CHECK YOUR BOXES
Be sure to immediately check your boxes against your shipping list and bill of lading. Examine for any damage and notify
Almost Heaven Saunas if there needs to be a repair or replacement of damaged or missing materials.
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
All electrical wiring must be performed by A QUALIFIED LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Because of the heat involved in the
sauna, it is required that you use copper wire with 90ºC insulation. Do not use aluminum wire to make the connection.
Consult with an electrician so you can determine the requirements for your particular situation. All wiring must conform
to all national, state and local codes and regulations.
When installing a sauna, special electrical requirements will necessitate the hiring of an electrician. The costs of this can
vary greatly depending on a number of factors. These may include how far away from your electrical service box you
locate your sauna, what part of the country you live in, the cost of materials, and other factors. We always recommend
that you get quotes from 2 or 3 different licensed electricians before you begin installation in order to get the best pos-
sible service.
LOCATING THE SAUNA
Because the customary sauna experience involves a heating-cooling-resting regimen, it is important to plan ahead
before installing your sauna. Our method of construction affords the widest number of possible choices because an Al-
most Heaven Sauna room can be placed in either an indoor or outdoor setting.
You will probably shower during or after each sauna bath, so consider having a shower installed nearby. Besides the
shower, you may want to have a lounging area set aside for relaxing after your sauna session. Make sure the floor or
ground is level and can support the weight of the sauna (which can exceed 1,000 lbs. when filled with people). A
concrete pad or wood deck is always best for outdoor installations, but if you put your sauna directly on the ground, be
sure that the cradle supports are resting on cinder blocks or other similar structures to prevent it from settling into the
ground. Regardless of where you set your sauna, be sure that the surface you use is both firm and level. Verify that
both the inlet and outlet vents in the sauna will remain unobstructed.
STAVE SELECTION
While Almost Heaven Saunas uses only high grade lumber, slight blemishes in the wood may be present, and while
these are of a cosmetic nature only, you may want to select where you place the different staves. For example, you may
want to place a stave with a blemish on the floor of the sauna beneath the benches, etc.
Read entire manual through to the end before proceeding with the assembly.
BASIC TOOLS
You should have the following tools:
 Wrench: either adjustable or open (10mm, 3/4", 1/2” and 7/16”)
 Cordless drill for driving screws
 Rubber Mallet
 Claw hammer
 Sandpaper – 120 Grit
INSTALLATION VIDEO
You are encouraged to watch our 8 minute online installation video prior to assembly of your Barrel Sauna. It will help
give you an overview of what is necessary for a proper installation and make assembly even easier for you!
 Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead)
 Framing Square
 5/16” and 3/16” drill bit
 Utility knife
 Level

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This manual is designed to be used for all Almost Heaven Barrel Saunas. While there are various
sizes, features and product names for our various Barrel Saunas, the information is applicable to
each.
The overall procedures are the same for all Barrel Saunas even though specific details may vary.
The sauna kits are designed for ease of assembly by the homeowner, and every effort has been
made to make the assembly information as clear and concise as possible.
To watch a demonstration of how the Barrel Sauna is assembled visit our YouTube channel.
A Word About Barrel Saunas
Your Almost Heaven Barrel is designed for outdoor use. The lumber is naturally resistant to
the elements. Rain and sun will not damage the wood, although natural weathering and
coloring of the wood will occur over time.
Properly assembled, you should not experience water dripping into the sauna. However, you
will experience water seepage, especially on the top and sides of the sauna. This is because
of the porous characteristics of the wood and due to the ball-and-socket profile design of the
staves.
Water seepage WILL NOT hurt the sauna and in most cases will dry quickly in the hot, dry
environment when the sauna is in use. If you wish to keep your sauna completely dry at all
times, then you should place it under a covering or structure with a roof.
This manual and the installation video that is included with your sauna give detailed instructions for
proper assembly, and you are encouraged to review this material in detail before you begin
assembly of your Almost Heaven Barrel Sauna.
If you have any questions about assembly, please contact us at:
Office 888.355.3050
E-mail [email protected]
Thank you again for your purchase of an Almost Heaven Sauna! We appreciate your business and
wish you many years of enjoyment with your new sauna.

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FIRST CONSIDERATIONS
When you begin the initial layout for assembly, it is very important to check your floor or deck to see if it is level. Most
garage floors, basement floors, and decks are sloped for drainage, and a slight slope will not be a problem. However, if
the slope is more pronounced, it is suggested that you use shims to make the sauna level. Failure to do this can result
in wall sections out of plumb, a poor fit, and/or your sauna functioning poorly. If your installation is in an exceptionally
windy area, you may want to take extra precaution to be sure the door does not accidentally blow open in wind gusts. In
most situations, however, this will not be a problem.
ROOM ASSEMBLY
Before beginning the assembly, unpack all of the staves and identify the drain stave, which will be the first one used. It
has one or more holes drilled in it for water drainage. As you examine the staves, you will notice that each end has a
croze (notch) on its inside face. The croze is the square cut groove into which the sauna end panels fit.
Begin the assembly by placing the cradle bases on the ground according to the Cradle Placement Guide on the following
page. Identify your specific Barrel Sauna model and be sure the cradle bases are parallel to each other. Keeping every-
thing level and square is very important to insure proper assembly and function.
Place the drain stave exactly in the center of the cradle base to provide good drainage. Insert additional staves on each
side of the drain stave to each end of the cradle base. Using a framing square, make sure that all the staves are
square to the cradle and that the croze (groove) is lined up on all pieces. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the
staves together and then screw every other bottom stave to the base with 2-inch stainless steel torque screws using one
screw per board into each cradle base, counter-sinking the screws into the stave.
Countersink
Stainless Steel
Screws when
attaching staves
to cradle
supports.
Position the front and back
ends in the croze on each end
of the base assembly (See
Figure 1). Use a level to be
sure that the vertical boards on
the door end and back end are
level and that the horizontal
brace boards holding the verti-
cal boards together are facing
the inside of the sauna. Using
your level, check the horizontal
boards on the insides of both
ends to be sure that you have
the panels plumb.
The metal vents are to be on
the BOTTOM on the back
(heater) end, and the vent holes
on the TOP on the door end of
the sauna.
With the drain stave in the center, insert addi-
tional staves to the end of each cradle base.
Screw staves to cradles

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Cradle Placement Guide
Note: For the 8’ Grandview Sauna, a fourth cradle is added. The two center cradles are to be
evenly spaced between the end cradles.

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Now that you have the front and end pieces placed in the croze, begin
alternately placing staves up the side of the sauna. Tap each board
firmly to the next with a rubber mallet, and hammer a nail through the
stave and into the end pieces every 2-3 boards to keep them from fall-
ing out. The nails will be hidden by the bands, but the fewer nails you
use now, the easier it will be if you ever need to dismantle and move
the sauna. You should stop using nails half-way up the sides.
When you come to the point of closing the room, you will find that the
space left over may not be equal to a whole stave. We have provided a
set of “filler staves” cut into various widths, (See Figure 2). Use the
necessary combination of filler staves to provide the tightest fit. Install
by tilting out the adjacent staves, inserting the filler staves, and pushing back into place. It is important that you use as
many staves and fillers as you can prior to tightening the stainless bands in order to create as tight a seal as possible.
Since the bands, when tightened, will draw the staves to the end sections, it is best to have enough staves in place so
that those from approximately the 10 o-clock to 2 o-clock positions are actually spread away from the end sections prior
to tightening the bands. It will seem like you have too many staves in place, but this is good as the bands will then draw
them down and tight to the end sections for the best possible seal.
NOTE: While your Barrel Sauna is designed for outdoor use, it is important to build the sauna in accordance
with these instructions to minimize water seepage into the sauna. Properly installed, water will not drip into
the sauna. However, over time water may seep between the staves due to the porous nature of softwood.
This will not hurt the sauna and will quickly evaporate once the sauna heater is turned on. If full water proof-
ing is desired, shingles or other roofing material can be installed on the top portion of the Barrel Sauna.
Summary
1) Place the end sections in the croze, insuring vertical
boards are plumb
2) Place staves around ends, tapping them with a rubber
mallet before nailing
3) Stop nailing at the half-way point
NOTE: It is helpful to tie a loose rope or
strap around the barrel while placing the
filler staves in place. This will prevent the
other staves from falling out when spread-
ing them apart to insert the final staves. It
is important to get as many staves and final
staves as possible around the barrel ends
in order to create the best seal possible!
Temporarily placing a stave croze side
down on top of the sauna helps steady the
two end panels during assembly.

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BAND ASSEMBLY
Each of the Band Assemblies are made of the following components:
(1) Stainless Steel Bands with brackets
(2) 1/2” Nuts
(2) Black vinyl caps
(1) 4-3/4” Threaded Rod
Place bands with pre-assembled brackets around sauna, spaced evenly apart. The two end bands should cover the
nails you used to hold the staves in place during assembly. Insert threaded rod through the bracket. Tighten nuts even-
ly so that the bands are of equal tension. Before tightening nuts, check to make sure bands are still spaced evenly.
Tighten nuts and install black vinyl thread protectors. (See Figure 3) You may place the brackets at the same level or
vary them at different heights depending on your styling preference.
Figure 3 - Band Assembly
Note:
 4’ and 5’ Barrel Saunas require two bands, one on each end and positioned over the croze.
 6’ Barrel Saunas require three bands, the third band positioned in the center of the sauna.
 8’ Barrel Saunas require four bands, the third and fourth evenly spaced along sauna length.
 For Canopy Barrels, place the front band 4” from the front of the sauna.
 8’ Grandview Barrel requires 5 bands evenly spaced.

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HEATER
Mount the heater as shown in the heater installation instructions. The heater should be positioned between the benches on
the back end wall approximately 7 inches from the floor. The lower the heater is, the hotter the temperature will be at the
benches. All the necessary hardware is supplied with the heater.
Do not attempt to wire the heater yourself. Contact a licensed electrician in accordance with your local electrical codes.
Figure 5 - Seat Installation
Center Seat Support (6’ and 8’ models only)
Wall Cleat
Use torque screws
BENCHES & SUPPORTS
Each barrel sauna includes two pre-assembled benches. Lay the benches on the lower cleats mounted on each end
wall section. Position the benches so that the pre-drilled holes cover the cleat and screw the bench into place. Install
center supports (on 6' and 8' models only) as shown in illustration. Be sure to sink screw heads below the surface so you
will not burn yourself while using sauna. (See Figure 5). The Grandview and Rustic Saunas include two contoured
back supports. Place the spacers against the installed benches and screw the back supports to the sauna walls. (See
Figure 5A)
Note for Canopy Barrel:
Assemble the exterior benches as shown below in the
same way you assembled the interior benches. You
will attach an exterior benches wall cleat to the sauna
wall, using
a level to
insure that
the seat is
level.
Bench Support
Bench
Cleat
Figure 5A - Back Support Installation
(Grandview, Huntington, and Rustic Saunas only)
Spacer
Back Support
Use 2” screws
Note for Grandview Barrel
The Grandview Barrel Sauna has duckboard flooring
sections. Place the first section at the door and work
back towards the heater.
Duckboard Floor Section

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Drill hole in rear of sauna to bring
power to sauna heater. Location
shown is typical, but the wire can
come in at any point most convenient
and accessible to the power source.
Bring conduit into sauna in compli-
ance with local electrical codes.
Interior view of wire coming into sau-
na and then wiring directly to heater
according to heater manufacturer’s
installation and hookup instructions.
Refer to the heater installation instructions for further heater installation details.
Your fence kit will arrive
banded with stretch wrap. It
consists of four pieces, shown
here.
Prop up the first pre-assembled portion and attach the two long horizontal
pieces. Make sure the countersunk holes on the wall mounting bracket face
inward.
Attach the final piece—the
remaining pre-assembled portion.
Position the fence around the heater and use the pre-drilled holes to attach it to
the wall.
HEATER FENCE ASSEMBLY

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LIGHT
1. Run LIGHT CORD through
Hole
The LED lighting comes installed
beneath your sauna heater, and
a small hole has been drilled in
the back wall for you to run the
power cord through.
3. Mount POWER SUPPLY
Use provided screws to position
waterproof Power Supply where
most convenient on the outside of
the sauna.
4. Connect to POWER
Plug into any standard outlet, or have your electri-
cian hardwire it into a 115V circuit. To operate,
press the red, pre-mounted switch.
LED Lighting bars
come pre-mounted.
2. Connect LIGHT CORD
Connect the female end coming
from the LED lighting bar to the
male end coming from the power
supply

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TREATING THE SAUNA
The lumber used in the construction of your Barrel Sauna is naturally resistant to the elements. Left untreated, the exteri-
or of an outdoor sauna will change colors. For example, a red cedar sauna will become silvery-gray. Rest assured, it is
fine to let the sauna weather naturally in this way. At any point in the future you can pressure wash (low pressure only!)
your sauna to bring back most of the original coloring.
If you want to retain the natural color of the lumber, your local paint store can recommend an outdoor stain. A clear stain
will retain the full natural color of your sauna. Be sure that is has a UV inhibitor so that it will best resist the effects of sun-
light. Be sure to follow the directions from the stain manufacturer for application instructions. Never treat the inside of the
sauna, and never use varnish or paint on the exterior of the sauna.
If you have a red cedar sauna, here are a couple recommended stain types. However, be sure to test a small piece of
wood to be sure you like the color.
LOWES HOME DEPOT
Brand: Olympic Elite Brand: Behr Premium
Type: Woodland Oil Type: Transparent Weather Proofing
Color: Natural Color: Cedar Naturaltone
Part #80100 Part #50101
OPERATION
After the sauna has been installed, sweep down the inside to remove any sawdust and wood shavings, and then vacuum
completely. Using a damp cloth and warm water, wipe down the entire sauna, including the benches, to remove any
remaining dirt, dust and debris. Remove the corks from the drain holes to let any water drain out. Replace the corks and
leave them in place while using the sauna to minimize air flow. Rinse off the sauna stones and install them in or on the
heater in accordance with the heater manufacturer’s instructions. Improper placement of heater stones can result in low-
er than desired heat temperatures. The first time you turn the heater on, set it to the maximum setting and operate it for
about 30 minutes with the door propped open. Then close the door and allow your sauna to come up to the desired tem-
perature.
If the sauna wood has absorbed moisture in storage, the staves may become loose after the intense heat causes the
wood to cure. It may be necessary to retighten the stainless steel bands periodically if this occurs. The lumber will swell,
especially if left in the open rain, and this will further tighten the seal of the wood.
The controls of the sauna heater are mounted at the bottom of the heater. The left dial is the temperature setting and
the right dial is the combined timer/on-off switch. Please refer to the manual that came with your heater for full heater
operational instructions. Since you most likely will use your sauna as both a "wet sauna" and a "dry sauna", you should
install the sauna stones that have been included with the heater, following the manufacturer’s instructions. These stones
are necessary if water will be sprinkled on the heater to create the "wet
sauna", and they will produce more consistent heating in the dry mode
(without the use of water). It is common for a stone to occasionally crack
during initial heating. If excess amounts of water are used during sauna,
prop door open to let the humidity escape. Not much water is necessary
to achieve a “wet sauna”.
The amount of ventilation in the sauna can be adjusted by means of the
vent located toward the top of the sauna near the door. It is important to
have adequate fresh air flowing through the sauna, and this flow can be
adjusted with the movable vent cover. If the sauna is located outdoors,
you should keep the vent closed when the sauna is not in use to prevent
insects and rodents from entering the sauna.

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ACCESSORIES
 Mount the thermometer on the opposite wall as the heater and at about eye level.
 A wooden bucket and ladle are provided for you to sprinkle water over the hot sauna stones.
 Mount the optional robe hook and magazine rack where desired.
 Optional accessory items are available from Almost Heaven Saunas.
Almost Heaven Saunas, LLC
Mailing Address Shipping Address
3 West 8th Street HC66, Box 465-A
Suite 220 Highway 219 North
Holland, MI 49423 Renick, WV 24966
Sales & Service 888-355-3050
Email [e-mail]
Web www.almostheaven.com
ELECTRICAL
Typical wiring requirements for distances of up to 30 feet from the breaker box are as follows:
 4.5kw, 5.0kw and 6.0kw heaters require 10-2 w/ground, copper only wire, and 30amp non-GFCI breaker.
 8.0kw heater require 8-2 w/ground, copper wire only, and 40amp non-GFCI breaker.
NOTE: All wiring must be done by a licensed electrician according to national and local electrical codes. Be sure to
check the instructions on your particular heater to verify electrical requirements as your heater may have been
purchased from a different source than Almost Heaven Saunas.

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TAKING A SAUNA BATH
The sauna as we know it comes from Finland. Taking a sauna bath induces excessive perspiration, which cleanses the
skin. It stimulates circulation and reduces muscular tension. It can also be an excellent relaxational or social activity.
Not to be confused with a steam bath, a sauna is a dry heat bath. The relative humidity rarely exceeds 30% even in a
wet sauna. This is because the sauna is made of porous wood and absorbs moisture. This makes higher temperatures
more tolerable.
Shown below are the steps that are involved in taking a traditional bath. You may or may not want to adhere to this
regimen.
TRADITIONAL STEPS IN TAKING A SAUNA BATH
STEP #1 - Set your heater so that the sauna room achieves the desired temperature, usually between 150º F and 170º
F. As a novice, you should begin at the lower end of this range and work your way up to the higher temperatures over
several sauna baths.
STEP #2 - Remove all clothing (except maybe your swimsuit), eyeglasses, contact lenses, jewelry, etc. Take a quick
shower with warm water and soap, or a quick dip in your hot tub or swimming pool.
STEP #3 - Enter the sauna initially for about 5 to 15 minutes. Bring a towel into the sauna onto which you can sit or lay.
Leave the sauna room once you have begun to perspire freely.
STEP #4 - Now you may take a cold plunge in your swimming pool, shower or snow bank. After that, relax and cool
down for another 10 to 20 minutes.
STEP #5 - Re-enter the sauna. On this return visit you may wish to sprinkle small amounts of water onto the stones,
creating bursts of steam. If the water spills through the heater and onto the floor, you are using too much, although this
will not hurt the heater or the sauna.
STEP #6 - After your final visit to the sauna, relax for at least 20 minutes. Shower with soap and warm water. Finish
your shower with cooler water to close the pores of your skin. Dress only after you have cooled down completely.
NOTE: Whatever your sauna regimen, it is important that you keep yourself hydrated by drinking plenty of water!
MAINTAINING YOUR SAUNA
Inside the sauna, certain areas will eventually darken due to normal use and the effects of perspiration. This can be
minimized, but not eliminated. Occasionally scrub down the inside with baking soda and water to remove the odor and
stains of perspiration. Light sanding can also be effective but should be kept to a minimum.