Alton Amateur 8'0" x 5'6" User manual

8’ Wide
AMATEUR CEDAR GREENHOUSE
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
10/10

8’ WIDE AMATEUR CEDAR GREENHOUSE
Assembly Instructions
YOUR NEW GREENHOUSE
Introduction 3
Safety Advice 3
Fitting Service 3
Tools required to erect the Greenhouse 3
Planning and Preparation 3
Unpacking the Greenhouse 3
OPTIONAL EXTRAS 4
Louvre Vents, Extensions, Cladding,
Rainwater Adaptor Kit, Automatic Vent Openers
SITE PREPARATIONS
Siting your Greenhouse 5
Site Preparation 5
CONCRETE BASE KERBS
Base Kerb Dimensions 6
Setting out the Concrete Kerbs 6
FIXING TO CONCRETE KERBS
Fixing of Cills to Concrete Kerb 7
Fixing End Gable and First Side Panel 7
Fixing the Plain Gable End 8
Fixing the remaining Side Panels 9
Fixing Door End Gable 10
PARTITION
Partition Assembly 11-12
ROOF
Preparation and Fixing of Ridge Bar 13-14
Fixing of Roof Panels 14-15
Fixing Roof Vents and Caps 16
Fixing of Roof Fascias and Finials 17
BRACING AND SUPPORTS
Bracing & Support 18
Bracing & Support on models
exceeding 13’ 7” / 3.96m 19
DOORS
Fixing Single Door 20-21-22
VENTILATION
Ventilation Options 23
Louvre Vent Assembly and Fitting 24
GUTTERING
Standard Gutter Assembly and Fitting 25
SHELVING AND STAGING
High Level Shelving 26-27
Staging Assembly 28
Glass details 29-30
Contents Page
ALTON GREENHOUSES, Station Works, Fenny Compton, Southam, Warwickshire CV47 2XB
Telephone: [phone]

YOUR NEW CEDAR GREENHOUSE
Introduction
Thank you for buying an Alton Cedar Greenhouse.
Please read carefully through these instructions
before beginning to put your greenhouse up.
Optional Extras
It is extremely important that you assemble your
optional extras in the correct position. Throughout
these instruction references will be made to each
optional extra. Please refer to the appropriate page
or leaflet for full details.
Safety advice
It is advisable that the greenhouse should be
assembled by two people. Particular care should
be taken when handling glass and the wearing of
gloves is strongly recommended. Favourable
weather conditions should be chosen. Do not try
to erect the building in windy conditions - the
panels are difficult to handle in high winds.
All side frames should be suitably propped until
the roof frames are secured.
Keep children and pets away until the work is
finished.
Take your time - rushing causes accidents.
Fitting service
Please call your local dealer if you would like to
have a quote for the erection of your greenhouse
by an installer.
Tools required to erect the greenhouse
Drill & bits (for pilot holes), screwdrivers (for slot
and posi-drive), spanners 10mm & 17mm, small
hammer, pliers, spirit level, step ladder, tape
measure, bradawl, mastic gun, saw & props.
Planning and preparation
All of the illustrations relate to a 10’6”/3.20m long
Amateur Greenhouse. For other models you will
have a greater or smaller number of Side and Roof
Sections for your chosen model.
Before you commence assembly of the frame it is
advisable to pre-determine the layout of individual
sections to ensure the roof vents are in the
position you require. To assist you in this each
section has been individually wrapped and
labelled.
If you do not want to cut one of the roof cover
strips please avoid positioning a roof vent at either
end of the greenhouse.
A bradawl or drill should be used to pilot all screw
holes, especially on the shelving and staging, to
help prevent the timber from splitting. Sometimes
the pre-drilled holes in the frames can be blocked
- simply insert a screwdriver to clear them.
Unpacking the greenhouse
Before removing all the packaging please note the
individual named pieces of greenhouse. This is not
only a convenient way to check you have all the
correct sections, but also to help you when
determining the layout and assembly of your
greenhouse. You will also notice all fixtures, nails,
screws, bolts etc., come pre-packed and labelled
for your convenience. Keep these in their bags
which will make identification easier.
If using a knife be careful not to cut into the cedar
wood.
Future Reference
Please keep these assembly instruction safe as you
may need them for reference in the future.
page 3

page 4
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Further Information
If you require further information on any of these
Alton accessories please, in the first instant, contact
your local Alton Stockist.
If this is not feasible, then please contact Alton
Greenhouses direct, address details are on the back
cover.
Get even more out of greenhouse
Alton have a range of accessories which will add
extra benefits to your new Amateur greenhouse.
Many of the accessories can be brought
when ordering your greenhouse - but
may also be added at a later date.
If it is a possibility that any of the
accessories will be added at a later date,
due care and attention should be given at
this stage to where the greenhouse is
situated. eg space for extension to either
end!
Louvre Vents
Extra side ventilation at staging height. Use in
conjunction with roof and vent access promotes
healthy air circulation. Can be used manually or
with automatic openers.
To fix at a later date accessibility to both sides of
the greenhouse is essential.
Extension Modules & Partitions
Simply extend your greenhouse - either or both
ends - using a pre-treated extension module(s).
You remove an end gable, bolt in the new
extension, then replace the end panel. You may
also consider a partition with your extension,
giving an extra ‘room’ for your greenhouse.
When siting the original greenhouse, consider the
space available for an extension at a later date.
Cladding
Alton Cladding is an ‘instant fit’ cedar wood
cladding which simply clips over the outside of
the greenhouse.
Cladding to
staging height
gives maximum
heat retention
in winter and
extra shade in
the summer.
Accessibility all
around the
greenhouse is essential, to be able to fit and
remove the cladding. Cladding can be bought
and fitted to any side or end you wish.
Rainwater Adaptor Kit
An easy to fit adaptor kit to connect both sides of
the guttering and to take the rainwater to one
single point. Ideal for collecting rainwater - and
within easy reach to water the greenhouse plants!
Automatic Vent Openers
Just set and forget. These units automatically open
and close in response to climatic conditions. Can
be used on roof or side louvre vents to give
optimum ventilation.

SITING YOUR GREENHOUSE
Siting your greenhouse
You may have already considered the position of
your new greenhouse and be aware of the general
guidance given. But it may be advisable to
consider the following advice.
A flat level site is essential and further information
on the preparation of the ground is given
opposite.
It is necessary to leave sufficient working room
around your greenhouse when you’re putting it
up and also to allow for
the possible need to
replace a piece of glass
in the future. If possible
try and leave a space of
2ft/610mm around the
greenhouse.
Locate the greenhouse
where there is maximum
amount of sunlight and
avoid if possible any
shade from trees, fences or other
buildings. Over- hanging branches can be a
particular nuisance and should be avoided.
Choose a site where the greenhouse is relatively
easy to get to and convenient to bring water to
and possibly a supply of electricity.
Finally, and most importantly choose a site where
your Alton Greenhouse will look right so that it
will complement to your garden.
Site Preparation
It is essential that the concrete base kerbs are laid
on firm level ground that is unlikely to let the
greenhouse sink into it after a number of years. If
the site for the greenhouse is not firm, level or
well drained, it is advisable to lay concrete
footings as illustrated, or lay a perimeter row of
paving slabs. The depth of footings will depend
on the nature of the ground on your site. For
practical purposes a spade’s width and depth may
be preferred.
33 /8”/86mm 5” / 127mm
5”
(127mm)
5”
(127mm)
page 5
Concrete footing Concrete footing

page 6
CONCRETE BASE KERBS
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS EXTERNAL DIMENSIONS
Model Width Length Diagonal Width Length Diagonal
8’0” x 5’6” 7’5” (2261mm) 4’9” (1448mm) 8’ 93/4” (2685mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 5’33/4” (1619mm) 9’93/4” (2991mm)
8’0” x 8’0” 7’5” (2261mm) 7’35/8” (2226mm) 10’47/8” (3173mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 7’103/8” (2397mm) 11’43/4” (3474mm)
8’0” x 10’6” 7’5” (2261mm) 9’91
/2” (2984mm) 12’33/8” (3744mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 10’41/4” (3156mm) 13’27/8” (4036mm)
8’0” x 13’0” 7’5” (2261mm) 12’41/8” (3762mm) 14’43/4” (4389mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 12’107/8” (3934mm) 15’37/8” (4669mm)
8’0” x 15’7” 7’5” (2261mm) 14’10” (4521mm) 16’7” (5055mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 15’43/4” (4693mm) 17’55/8” (5324mm)
8’0” x 18’0” 7’5” (2261mm) 17’45/8” (5299mm) 18’107/8” (5761mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 17’113/8” (5471mm) 19’9” (6021mm)
8’0” x 20’7” 7’5” (2261mm) 19’101
/2” (6058mm) 21’21/2” (6466mm) 8’3” (2515mm) 20’51 /4” (6229mm) 22’01/2” (6718mm)
Base kerb dimensions
Setting out the Concrete Kerbs
The kerbs should be laid out according to the
internal dimensions for your particular model. The
dimensions are given above. Check the diagonal
measurements both ways to ensure squareness.
As a result of the manufacturing process the kerbs
can in some cases be uneven on the underside and
may need to be bedded on a dry sand/cement
mix to correct any inaccuracy.
Each kerb has a number stamped on it to help you
identify it and relates to the plan below. The plan
shows the position of each kerb.
The ends are the same for all models but the
quantity of kerbs (Ref 756) for the sides varies with
the particular length of model. The example layout
below is for a 8’ x 10’6”/2.43m x 3.20m model.
The corner kerbs should be positioned with the
sloping side at the side of the the greenhouse and
the vertical side to the front or back.
Please note that gaps between the concrete kerbs
are normal and these should be grouted after
erection of the greenhouse has been completed.
Diagram based on
the 8’x10’ model
Internal Diagonal
(see chart above)
Internal Length (see chart above)
S756
E454
S756S756
S756S756S756
E454
L340
R340
Internal
Width
7'5"/2261mm
E585 E585 E585
L340
R340
Door Width
2'93
/4" / 857mm

FIXING TO CONCRETE KERBS
Fixing of cills to concrete kerbs
Layout the wooden cills in position making sure
the side cills bevelled edge faces outwards from
the building.
There is no bevel on the gable end cills. They
should be positioned with the slots closest to the
outside.
Loosely fix the cills with the M10 x 50 coach
screws (50mm long) and washers. Use the slots
for any adjustment. See fig 1. Ensure that the side
cills are butted up to and are square to the end
cills. It is worth checking again the diagonal
measurements.
When all in position and square, tighten the bolts
down with a 17mm spanner.
Back
Side fig 1
Fixing end Gable and the first side panel
The bolts for fixing the frames are different lengths
and are for specific locations. Washers should
always be fitted before the nut is put on. Please
note that, when a low level vent is fitted adjacent
to the gable end, that the bolts have to be reversed
and plastic caps are provided to cover the exposed
nuts on the outside of the gable end.
Prior to commencing the assembly of the sides
gather together all the necessary bolts, washers,
nuts, brackets & screws that you see identified. The
quantity will vary depending on the length of the
model.
It’s best to start with the plain gable end and side
panel as shown in fig 2. Offer the end and side
section to the cill being
sure to rest both
sections on the
top edge of the
concrete and
against the
outside edge of
the cill. See fig 4
on page 8.
see
fig 4
see
fig 3 fig 2
page 7
fig 3

page 8
FIXING GABLE END & SIDES
Fix the sections together with 3 off 33 /8” (85mm)
bolts, washers and nuts as shown in fig 5. It’s a
good idea to prop the side section safely.
See fig 2.
Secure each section to the cill with a 2” (50mm)
screw through each pre-drilled hole at the bottom
of the section. See fig 4 and fig 8 on page 9.
Next fix a side section to the other side of the
gable.
If in fixing a side section to the gable end the side
vent is adjacent to the gable, the bolts must be
reversed so it’s head is inside the channel of the
lift up vent.
See fig 5. Use 3 off 23 /4”/70mm bolts, washers and
nuts plus 3 plastic nut covers.
The lift up vents will require the transit blocks to
be removed to give access to all the fixing holes.
Check the glass slides up and down without
hitting the bolt heads.
Note: It is correct that the end of the side section
does not line up flush with the gable end.
fig 5
Fixing plain gable end and side panels
Concrete
Kerb
Cill
Glazed
Side
Panel
fig 4

Repeat the same procedures for fitting the
remaining side sections in place. Where side
sections meet each other use the shorter 23 /8” /
60mm bolts and fix with a washer and nut, as
shown in fig 7. Remember to ensure the bolt head
is inside the channel of the lift up vent.
Continue to prop the sides as you progress.
Remember to fix the panels to the cills as before
with a 2”/ 50mm countersunk screw though each
pre- drilled hole, as shown in fig 8.
FIXING SIDE PANELS
Fixing the remaining side panels
fig 9
fig 8
Fix the plastic tongue in the slot between the side
panels. This may be done from either the top or
bottom. See fig 9. Bend the plastic tongue over
on itself when you push the end into the slot. This
will prevent it from sliding back out. You may find
it easier to accomplish this by gripping the folded
end with a pair of pliers.
Note: OPTION
If required, it is at this point that the partition
needs to be positioned. Please refer to page 12 for
full instructions.
page 9
fig 6
see
fig 7
see
fig 5
see
fig 8
see
fig 9
fig 7

FIXING DOOR END GABLE
Fix door gable end to the cills with 2” / 50mm
countersunk screws through each pre-drilled hole.
If the side vent is next to the door gable the bolts
must be reversed as shown in fig 3. Use 3 off
23 /4”/70mm bolts, washers and nuts plus the
plastic covers.
page 10
Having fixed all the side sections offer the door
gable end section to the assembly, having first
removed the transit strap at bottom of door way.
Fasten door gable end with 6 off 33
/8”/85 mm
bolts, washers and nuts through the pre-drilled
holes. See fig 2.
see
fig 2
fig 1
fig 2
Fixing Door End Gable
fig 3
see
fig 3

PARTITION
Partition assembly
It is important that the partition assembly is
completed at this stage - before the remaining
end panels and roof panels are fixed.
Gather all parts required for the partition
assembly.
If you have not already done so, position
the partition concrete kerbs (same shape
as end kerbs. 2 x E689) so that they are
on a joint between two side frames. This
should be (dependent on position of
partition) 4’103/4”/1493mm from the inside of the
end kerb to the centre of the partition footings.
Giving an approximately 5’/1.25 deep.
Remove and discard the coach screw from the
main building cill adjacent to the partition kerbs,
this will allow the partition to fit properly
It is necessary to cut away the top point of the
partition frame to allow it to fit under the ridge
bar. Mark cut line as indicated in fig 2 and saw
off.
Offer up the partition section and check for fit
and square, secure to base kerbs with angle
brackets, using bolts and 3/4”/19mm screws.
See fig 3
OPTIONAL
fig 1
see fig 3
see fig 4
see note 1
see fig 2
page 11
Frame
Remove this section
Frame
11
/16” 27mm
fig 2
Secure the partition to the side panels with two
plates per side and 1”/25mm countersunk screws.
Repeat the instructions on the roof sections.
See fig 4.
NOTE 1: If the partition is next to a ventaccess
fig 3
fig 4

DO NOT fix a plate any lower than 333mm from
the eaves as this will impair the ventaccess
operation.
NOTE 2: Be sure that the bracket which secures
the partition to the roof sections will NOT
interfere with the high level shelving fixtures. (See
page 28). We suggest that the bracket is fixed
approximately 10” / 254mm from the side panel.
NOTE 3: Remove eave bracket. When partition is
in final position refix the bracket
Fix the door by holding the door in position - so
that the door fits comfortably at the top and sides
- and mark screw holes.
Fix one 11 /4”/32mm csk screw in each hinge and
test fit. Adjust if necessary. Once door is to your
satisfaction secure with all screws.
Nail the angled cut door surround to top of door
frame. The side surrounds are already fitted.
Position and mark door lock and handle. Drill
suitable sized hole for the door spindle. Place and
fix using 6 black round headed screws. See fig 6
PARTITION
page 12
OPTIONAL
fig 5
Partition assembly
fig 6

page 13
RIDGE BAR
Preparation and Fixing of Ridge Bar
On models over 13’/3.96m the ridge may be
supplied in sections. Lay them upside down on
level ground and join them by overlapping the cut
ends and securing them with the metal channel
which is fixed with 4 off 11 /4”/32mm countersunk
screws. See fig 2.
On all models mark the positions of the “U”
shaped ridge brackets on the underside of the
ridge bar. Position the brackets along the ridge
bar as indicated in fig 3.
Measure
a-1’5”/432mm in from each end and
b- 2’65/8”/778mm between each bracket.
Drill pilot holes and fix the brackets loosely
with 11 /4”/32mm screws. The number of brackets
varies with the length of greenhouse. See fig 4.
abb
see
fig 2&3fig 1
fig 3
fig 4
Once the ridge bar and roof panels are in the final
positions - then you will be required to tighten the
ridge brackets. See page15.
fig 2

RIDGE BAR / ROOF PANELS
Preparation and Fixing of Ridge Bar
Apply the sealing mastic to the ridge, either when
its fixed in position or now while it’s still on the
ground. A Mastic Gun is required and the nozzle
should be cut to provide a 5/8”/15mm bead which
is applied to the inside top edge of the ridge bar.
See fig 5.
With assistance, offer the ridge bar to the
assembly and fix with a 21
/2”/64mm counter-sunk
screw at each end. See fig 6.
On any ridge board longer than 8’0” it is essential
to prop it at the centre for the duration of the
assembly.
It is beneficial on the longer buildings to prop the
ridge to the extent that it has a small upward
curve in it.
fig 5
fig 6
page 14
Fixing Roof Panels
Prior to commencing the assembly of the roof
gather together all the necessary bolts, washers,
nuts, brackets and screws that you require for this
part of the assembly.
1”/25mm Round head screws
33/8”/85mm Bolts, washers and nuts
11/4”/32mm Countersunk screws
2”/50mm Countersunk screws
23/4”/70mm Bolts, washers and nuts
Galvanised Roof vent nails
Plastic tongue ·Eaves brackets
The quantity will vary dependent on the length of
the model.
Double roof sections must be positioned above
double side sections, and single roof sections above
single side sections.
First fix the eaves brackets to the roof sections.
They are required on each roof section except
where adjacent to the gable ends. See figs 2/3.
fig 2
see
fig 5
see
fig 2&3
see
fig 4

fig 6
Now repeat the above with the roof panel on the
opposite side of the greenhouse.
When they are both in place with all bolts and
screws fitted you can tighten the screws holding
the ridge bracket to the ridge. Before fully
tightening ensure the roof panels are
pushed tight up against the ridge.
If either of these roof sections contain an opening
for a roof vent it must now be fitted.
Position the roof vent centrally and secure with 3
off 2”/50mm countersunk screws through the pre-
drilled holes. See Fig 5.
ROOF PANELS
Refer to fig 2 (on page 14) and position the
bracket so it’s lined up with the inside edge of the
eaves rail of the roof section and mark along the
upper edge of the bracket. Position the bracket in
the centre of the style and line up the bend with
the mark.
Secure each bracket to the roof section with a
1”/25mm round head screw.
Offer up the first roof panel. Align with holes in the
gable end by inserting a screwdriver though the
holes. Fix the gable end to the roof panel by
inserting 33/8”/85mm bolts from the outside
through each hole. Fit washer and nut on the
inside. See fig 4.
Fix the other end of the eaves bracket with a 1”/
25mm round head screw into the top of the side
panel. See fig 3.
fig 4
fig 5
Fixing Roof Panels
page 15
Now fit the roof vent cap above the vent.
Fit the vent cap with the drip rail side above the
vent and the other side flush to the edge of the
ridge. See figs 6 and 9 for reference and secure
with nails from the roof vent kit.
Important - see next page if you have
adjacent roof vents.
fig 3

page 16
ROOF PANELS
fig 8
Fixing roof Vents and Caps
If you have roof vents adjacent (either side) to
each other you will have to trim the vent caps as
detailed in fig 7. Note: if you have more than one
set of adjacent roof vents, these will require
cutting at both ends
Leave the casement fittings or automatic openers
until later.
Follow the same procedures for fitting the
remaining roof sections in place.
Where roof sections meet each other use the
shorter 23/4”/70mm bolts and fix with a washer
and nut.
Fit any other roof vents and vent caps.
7/8” / 22mm
7/8” / 22mm
fig 7
Fix the plastic tongue in the slot between the two
roof panels. See fig 8.
Bend the plastic tongue over on itself when you
push the end into the slot. This will prevent it
from sliding back out and you may find it easier to
accomplish this by gripping the folded end with a
pair of pliers.
Note: It is correct that the end of the roof section
does not line up flush with the gable end.
Finally check that all nuts and bolts are tightened
before proceeding to the next instruction.
1”/24mm Nails
‘U’ Ridge brackets
5
/8” / 15mm bead of mastic
Ventilator cap
fig 9

ROOF FASCIAS & FINIALS
Fixing the Roof Fascias and Finials
The gable roof cover strips (4) should be fitted
next. At the door end you will need to cut out the
necessary gap for the door post.
Offer up the strip to mark off the correct amount
to be carefully cut out.
Then fix with 1”/ 25mm nails, use 5 per strip.
See fig 2.
Fix the remaining roof cover strips as shown
opposite in fig 3.
If you have a roof vent adjacent to the gable you
will have to cut away part of the strip to allow the
vent to close. Take care when cutting not to split
the cover strip. Again offer it up into position to
establish the amount you need to remove.
Attach the finials to each gable end with 2 off 1”/
25mm nails each. See fig 4.
NOW remove the transit bars from both
gable ends
see
fig 3
fig 1
see
fig 4
see
fig 2
fig 2
fig 3
fig 4
page 17

page 18
BRACING & SUPPORTS
Bracing and Supports
Fix the RIDGE braces to every glazing bar except
at the gable ends. These are 2’/610mm in length
and should be positioned centrally and secured
with 4 off 11/4”/32mm countersunk screws for
each. See fig 2.
ON MODELS 13’/3.96m OR SHORTER fit the
EAVES braces on every glazing bar except at the
gable ends as shown in fig 3. These braces are
1’10” / 560mm in length and are secured by 4 off
11/4”/32mm countersunk screws.
Measure a distance of 121/4”/312mm down from
the top of the side section to get the correct
position of the end of each brace.
IF YOUR GREENHOUSE IS LONGER THAN
13’/3.96M please also refer to the instructions on
page 19 - regarding Middle Braces and Double
Braces.
fig 4
fig 3
fig 2
DIFFERENT BRACING AND SUPPORT METHODS ARE REQUIRE FOR DIFFERENT
LENGTHS OF GREENHOUSE, PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE PROCEEDING
fig 5
Gable end
braces are
fixed as shown
in fig 4 & 5.
Double check
the verticals
before
securing with
11/4” / 32mm
countersunk
screws as
shown.
see
fig 5
see
fig 3
see
fig 2 see
fig 4

On all models 15’ 7”/ 4.75mm a MIDDLE
BRACE is fitted instead of a standard brace at
every roof/side section join. See fig 1. Standard
eave braces are fitted (on all models) to all other
glazing bars except at the gable ends.
Fix middle brace at the top and bottom with
11 /2” /38mm countersunk screws to the roof and
side cill, in the pre-drilled holes. The base of the
middle brace is shaped to partially fit over the top
of the cill.
Next move the short double bevelled block up to
the top of the middle brace and the rafter.
Holding it tightly in position secure with two 11 /4”/
38mm countersunk screws. See fig 3A.
If your model is 18’ / 5.48m or longer a
DOUBLE BRACE is supplied for fitting at
approximately 10’ / 3.04m intervals in addition to
the Middle Brace described above. See fig 2.
Loosely bolt the double brace ties to the long
bevelled block at the top. See fig 3B.
(NOTE: The bevelled end of the double brace ties
should be at the bottom and nearest the side of the
greenhouse.)
With a double brace tie crossing the middle brace
on either side, loosely bolt them to the short
bevelled side block. See fig 3C.
Move the short bevelled side block up to the side
glazing bar and fix with 11 /2”/ 38mm countersunk
screws. See fig 3D.
Tighten the bolts holding the double brace ties,
top and bottom, and lock ties to middle brace
with a 11 /2”/ 38mm countersunk screw on either
side. See fig 3E.
BRACING THE GREENHOUSE
Bracing the Greenhouse on models exceeding 13’ / 3.96m
A
B
E
D
A
fig 3
C
MIDDLE
BRACE
DOUBLE
BRACE
fig 1 fig 2
page 19

page 20
SINGLE DOOR
Fixing the Single Door
To help you get the correct clearance under the
door it can help to lay the timber door stop
(slamming strip) on level ground at the door
entrance so the under side is level with the
bottom of the kerbs. If you then stand the door
on the strip this will give you clearance of about
3
/8” / 10mm beneath the door.
Check with a spirit level that the door is vertical
and then hold the metal top door track in position
and mark its location on the frame.
Take the door away and fit the metal top door
track. Ensure the right hand end lines up with the
outside edge of the door post and fix with 4 off
1”/ 25mm countersunk screws as shown in fig 2.
Assemble the door pelmet with 6 off 1”/ 25mm)
nails as shown in fig 3 being careful not to split
the timber. Secure the pelmet to the metal top
door track using 4 off 1 /2” / 12mm countersunk
screws as in fig 4.
Slide the door into position on the door track.
fig 1
see fig 2 see fig 3/4
fig 3
fig 4
fig 2