Alton VICTORIAN OAKHAM User manual

12/15

2
Contents:
Introduction
Overview
Base Preparation
Side Assembly
Rear Assembly
Front Assembly
Frame Assembly
Door Installation
Roof Assembly
Louvre Installation
Glazing
Roof Vent Installation
Louvre Glazing
Gutter and Downpipe Installation
Optional Cresting
End Caps and Finials
Finished Installation
Optional Auto Louvre Installation
Parts Lists
Section
-
1
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
Page
3
4-5
5
6-7
8-15
16-21
22-26
27-30
31-35
36-37
38-46
47-49
50
51-53
54
55
56-57
58-59
60
10’ Wide Victorian Cedar Greenhouse
Assembly Instructions

3
Thank you for purchasing your new Alton greenhouse. We recommend you familiarise
yourself with the instructions and read all safety information before you commence assembly.
This instruction manual is also available online at www.greenhousepeople.co.uk in the
technical help section should you need to reprint it. Should you require any additional advice
you can always call us on 01782 385409.
Safety Warning
 Glass, aluminium and timber can potentially cause injury. Please ensure you wear protective
goggles, gloves, headgear and suitable footwear when assembling and glazing the building.
 Please remember that glass is fragile and should be handled with extreme care. Always clear
up and dispose of any breakages immediately.
 Do not assemble the greenhouse in high winds.
 For safety reasons and ease of assembly, we recommend that this greenhouse is assembled
by a minimum of two people.
 Please clear all lying snow from the greenhouse roof as it can cause the roof to buckle or
collapse.
Site Preparation
 When selecting a site for your greenhouse, it is vital that you choose as flat and level an area
as possible.
 A concrete or slabbed base will provide the most solid foundation for your greenhouse. A
slabbed base would be our preferred choice as this helps with drainage.
 Avoid placing your greenhouse under trees or in other vulnerable locations.
 To minimise the risk of wind damage, try to select as sheltered a site as possible, e.g. beside a
hedgerow or garden fence.
Additional Considerations
 Please bear in mind that assembling your greenhouse can be time consuming. You may need
to spread the construction over two or more days. We recommend that you avoid leaving the
building partially glazed. If you ever have to leave your greenhouse half assembled and not
anchored down, weigh it down with slabs or bags of sand to stop the wind moving it.
 You will find it helpful to prepare a large, clean and clear area in which to work in. A garage
floor or flat lawn area is ideal.
 If you have arranged for someone to install your greenhouse for you, please check that all
components are included. Most parts are numbered and can be identified by a stamp or
removable label. Alternatively, the components can be identified by lengths detailed in the
packing list.
 Remember this is a natural timber product, the wood may soak up some water and some
staining may occur. Your Evolution greenhouse is factory dipped in a clear spirit based
preservative. We recommend that you re-apply some clear treatment annually particularly on
the most exposed areas. If you want to avoid this and give your greenhouse a more
permanent finish you could apply an oil based product (refer to manufacturers
recommendations for recoating).
Introduction

4
25mm Pan Head
(Stainless Steel)
40mm Pan Head
(Stainless Steel)
50mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel)
80mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel)
Fixes all
capping and
Secures
Timber
Cladding
Fixes glazing
bars to ridge
and cills
Secures corner
joints and the
roof glazing
bars to the
ridge
19mm Pan Head
(Stainless Steel)
Fixes the
vent hinge
to the ridge
cover cap
25mm Countersunk
(Stainless Steel)
13mm Self Tapping
Used on
roof vents
EV0329 EV0328 EV0330 EV0331 EV0332 EV0333 EV0334 EV0339
Fixes the roof
glazing bars to
the eaves and
side glazing
bars in one go
100mm Countersunk (Stainless Steel)
Overview
1
This manual uses a 10 ft x 10 ft greenhouse as an
example throughout. Look out for tables and extra diagrams
showing the varying sizes. You can use the image on the front cover as
a reference as to what the greenhouse should look like as you go along.
If you are going to treat the greenhouse yourself then it would be best to do it
before you begin building the frame.
Set out your metal base on your prepared site, but don’t fix this down until the greenhouse
is complete. Follow the manual and build the sections as recommended.
When screwing through one piece of timber into another it is always recommended to predrill
the first piece. This will prevent the timber from splitting which could weaken the structure.
You can build the sides and gables flat on the ground and then with help or using a prop position the
first one ready for installation. You then work your way around the greenhouse connecting each
section. Once you have completed the gables and sides you can install the ridge and the roof.
To build your new greenhouse you will need the following tools:
Spirit Level Pencil
PZ2 Screwdriver Bit Cordless Screwdriver (2 would be ideal, 1 to drill and 1 to screw)
4mm Drill Bit 7mm Masonry Bit
Hammer Drill Hammer
Wooden/Rubber Mallet Tall step ladders x 2
There are 8 different types of screws used in the construction of the greenhouse. These are as
follows, with examples of where to look out for them:

5
Overview
1
Base Preparation
Glazing the structure is very simple but be very careful of the edges of the glass as the pane will
break into tiny peaces if you catch an edge on a hard surface such as concrete. You should also wear
suitable gloves and goggles when handling the glass (this also helps to keep it clean). It is good
practice to pre-load the cedar bar capping with screws and position this around the greenhouse
ready for you when you arrive with the glass.
During glazing you will also need to fit the louvre vents so make sure you have these built and ready
to slot in. These fit between 2 pieces of glass and are held in place by the capping system.
Then fit the roof vents. This is done from the inside, gain access through the opening on a set of
steps.
All you have left to do now is fit the gutter and downpipes, think about where you might site a water
butt when doing this.
Option of gluing joints. This is not required for strength but you may do it if you wish. However bare
in mind if you ever intend to move or adapt the greenhouse in the future this would make it very
difficult. The best glue for this would be Poly Urethane Wood Adhesive. Take care when applying
this, you only need a very small amount as the glue expands to fill the joint. If you use too much it
may seep out of the joint and could be unsightly! Try a test piece before you start.
Read through the rest of this manual before starting, you are less likely to miss something doing this
and you will have a better understanding of how it all works.
Refer to your individual base plan supplied with your order confirmation for dwarf wall dimensions.
It is necessary to leave sufficient working room around your greenhouse when you're putting it up
and also to allow for the possible need to replace a piece of glass in the future. If possible try and
leave a minimum space of 2ft/610mm around the greenhouse.
Note that the door opens inwards so you should not have any higher ground or obstacles inside the
front end of the greenhouse.
Locate the greenhouse where there is maximum amount of sunlight and avoid if possible any shade
from trees, fences or other buildings. Over-hanging branches can be a particular nuisance and should
be avoided.
Choose a site where the greenhouse is relatively easy to get to and convenient to bring water to and
possibly a supply of electricity.
Finally, and most importantly, choose a site where your Alton Greenhouse will look right so that it
will complement your garden.

6
To start building your greenhouse begin by laying out the components for your sides flat on the
ground like the diagram below. Use the tables below to identify your building length and the
components with the part numbers and sizes. First of all drill pilot holes through the bottom of each
mortise on the cill section (diagram 2, page 9). Then slot each glazing bar into the mortise holes.
These are designed as a tight fit so you may need help with this or maybe use a solid object to push
against. Once firmly in position fix with the 50mm screw. Now slot the eaves rail into position (e.g.
EV0420). There is no need to fix this yet as it is done at a later stage.
Side Assembly
2
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0015 1846 2
EV0418 1934 2
EV0489 1588 4
6ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0016 2476 2
EV0419 2564 2
EV0489 1588 6
8ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0017 3106 2
EV0420 3194 2
EV0489 1588 8
10ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0018 3736 2
EV0421 3824 2
EV0489 1588 10
12ft long
Part Name
Cill
Eaves Bar
Glazing Bar
example
EV0017
EV0420
EV0489
Dia. 2
Dia. 3
EV0489 EV0489
Internal
EV0489
10ft long
example
Eaves barexternalface

7
Side Assembly
2
Diagram 2
EV0017
EV0489
EV0017
EV0489
Make sure the side bars are pushed all the
way in, you may find they need a light tap
with a wooden mallet or something similar.
(If you are going to glue your joints this is the
first point you would do this. )
50mm Screw
Pilot hole, it is
easiest to drill
down through the
middle of the
mortise to make
sure you get the
hole in the correct
position
EV0489
EV0420
Diagram 3
Internal
Internal
Diagram 4 Keep flush
at this point
Side Base Plate
EV0017
The side base plates should be fitted
flush to the ends of the side cills as
shown in diagram 4. Fix with 25mm
screws.

8
Rear Assembly
3
Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
EV0406 3196 1
EV0484 2298 1
EV0485 2298 1
10ft wide Rear
Part Name
Rear Cill
Roof Corner R
Roof Corner L
Side Corner R EV0490 934 1
Side Corner L EV0491 934 1
Above Purling R EV0467 943 1
Gable Bar L EV0497 2180 1
Mid Gable Bar EV0462 1589 1
Standard Bar EV0489 908 5
Above Purling L EV0466 519 1
Above Purling R EV0465 519 1
Purling Brace EV0412 3182 1
Rear Mid Purling EV0413 851 1
Gable Purling R EV0410 1168 1
Gable Purling L EV0416 1168 1
Above Purling L EV0468 943 1
Gable Bar R EV0496 2180 1
As with the side cills you will need to drill pilot holes in
the bottom of the mortise holes (diagram 6).
Assemble the gable glazing bars (EV0489) with the rear
cill flat on the ground as you did with the side sections.
These locate in the two outer mortise holes and the
middle mortise hole.
Now slot the middle rear purling (EV0413) onto the
central glazing bar, this will be fixed shortly.
EV0406
EV0489
50mm Screw
Pilot hole, it is
easiest to drill
down through the
middle of the
mortise to make
sure you get the
hole in the correct
position
Internal Diagram 6
Diagram 5
EV0413
EV0489
Dia. 5
Dia. 6
EV0489
EV0489
EV0489
EV0413
EV0406
Internal
Internal
EV0489
EV0489

9
Rear Assembly
3
Dia. 7
Now slot the 2 longer gable
bars into the cill. These also
need to locate with the middle
rear purling (diagram 7) .
Diagram 7
EV0413
EV0496
EV0497
EV0496
EV0416
EV0410
Next fit both left and right purlings to the standard glazing bars (EV0489). These are handed parts
and it is important to fit them the correct way round. The purlings will have rounded edges on one
side and square cut edges on the other, the rounded edges should be on the inside of the building
fitting flush with the other components. The square cut edges should be outward facing and will be
set in slightly from the rebate that takes the glass.
These simply slot in place for now.
Internal
Internal

10
Rear Assembly
3
Diagram 9
Dia. 9
Dia. 8
EV0490
EV0491
EV0490
EV0490
EV0410
EV0406
You will need to drill a pilot hole in the bottom of each side
corner bar as shown in diagram 8. This should come through
half way up the mortise slot. Now slot the side corner bar
into place, fix the bottom of the bar with an 80mm screw.
With the top of the bar lined up with the end of the purling
(keeping the inside edges flush) drill a pilot hole close to the
inside face of the tenon on the purling (diagram 9), then fix
with a 25mm countersunk screw. This is only a transit screw
so just make sure the joint is nice and tight, a larger fixing will
be added later.
20mm
16mm
Diagram 8
80mmScrew
25mm Screw
Internal

11
Rear Assembly
3
Pilot
hole
here
Dia. 10
EV0497
EV0485
40mmScrew
Diagram 11
Internal
Dia. 11
EV0467
EV0468
30mm 45mm
EV0468
Diagram 10
Once the side corner bars are secure slot
the above purling glazing bars into place.
With all of the gable bars in place drill pilot
holes through the lap joints at the end of
each bar. The holes should be drilled
centrally to the bar and spaced out as
shown in diagram 10.
Now slot the two roof corner bars into
place, these should be secured with 40mm
screws, diagram 11.
EV0485
EV0484
Internal
Internal
EV0462
EV0465
EV0466

12
3
Dia. 12
Diagram 12
Dia. 13
Diagram 13
With all the components now in place flip the gable end over so you now have the
outside edge facing you. Be careful doing this as some of the parts are not completely
supported, it is a good idea to have a helper at this point. Now using 25mm countersunk
screws fix the purlings to the glazing bars as shown in diagram 12 and 13. Make sure the
head of the screws are below the level of the timber so that they don’t have any contact
with the glass.
Rear Assembly
EV0410
EV0410
EV0413
EV0413EV0416
EV0416
EV0466 EV0466
EV0489
EV0489
EV0497 EV0497
External

13
Rear Assembly
3
Dia. 13
Internal
Internal
Side View
Diagram 13
With the outside face of the gable still facing you slide the rear purling brace (EV0412) under the
frame (use cardboard or something similar to protect this part when doing this so the internal face is
not damaged).
Position the rear purling brace so the underside of the brace is flush with the underside of the
purlings. The ends should stop just short of the corner joint as shown in diagram 13.
EV0412
EV0485
EV0416
EV0491
EV0489 EV0466
EV0412
Internal face
EV0491

14
3
Rear Assembly
You can now fix the brace through the purlings with 50mm screws at the points shown above in
diagram 14, mark the purling and pre-drill before fixing. It’s not a good idea to try and screw
through the complete sections of glazing bar (unless a countersink is used) as they are likely to split
(these are shown below in diagram 15). The rear gable is now complete and you can move onto the
next section.
Diagram 14
External
Diagram 15 External

15
Rear Assembly
3
34mm
Diagram 14
Rear Base Plate
Corner Glazing Bar
Rear Cill
You will need to
measure from the
outside edge of the
corner bar to get the
correct position for
the rear base plate.
This should be set in
34mm from each
end, diagram 14.
Use 25mm screws to
fix this in place.
Dia. 14
Internal

16
The front gable is made
slightly differently to the
rear as it is in two halves.
It is a good idea to build
these side by side to
make sure you are fitting
the parts in the correct
orientation.
As before start by fixing
the gable bars to the cills
shown in diagrams 15
and 16.
EV0402
EV0489
50mm Screw
Pilot hole, it is
easiest to drill
down through the
middle of the
mortise to make
sure you get the
hole in the correct
position
Diagram 16
Diagram 15
50mm Screw
EV0497
EV0402
External
Internal
Dia. 15 Dia. 16
EV0489
EV0497
EV0489
EV0496
EV0402 EV0402
4
Front Assembly
Internal
EV0489 EV0489
10ft wide Front
Part Name Part
Number
Size
(mm)
Qty
Front Cill EV0401 881 2
Roof Corner R EV0484 2298 1
Roof Corner L EV0485 2298 1
Side Corner R EV0490 934 1
Side Corner L EV0491 934 1
Gable Purling R EV0410 1168 1
Gable Purling L EV0416 1168 1
Standard Bar EV0489 908 4
Above Purling R EV0465 519 1
Above Purling L EV0466 519 1
Above Purling R EV0467 943 1
Above Purling L EV0468 943 1
Gable Bar R EV0496 2180 1
Gable Bar L EV0497 2180 1
Above door EV0473 1249 1

17
Diagram 17
Now slot the purling bars into place, again as with the rear assembly these will be fixed later.
Dia. 18 Dia. 17
Diagram 18
EV0409
EV0494
EV0409
EV0489
EV0416
EV0410
Internal
Front Assembly
4

18
4
Front Assembly
Diagram 20
EV0490
EV0491
Dia. 20
Dia. 19
EV0402
EV0490
EV0490
EV0410
Drill the pilot holes again as diagram 19 shows. Fix the cill to
the corner bar with an 80mm screw.
As before (keeping the inside edges flush) drill a pilot hole
close to the inside face of the purlings tenon (diagram 20),
then fix with a 25mm countersunk screw. This is only a transit
screw so just make sure the joint is nice and tight, a larger
fixing will be added later.
20mm
16mm
Diagram 19
80mmScrew
Internal
25mm Screw

19
Front Assembly
4
30mm 45mm
EV0468
Diagram 21
EV0468
Ev0485
40mmScrew
Diagram 22
Internal
Slot the roof corner bars onto the gable
bars and fix with 40mm screws
(diagram 22).
Slot the above
purling glazing bars
into place ready to
take the roof corner
bars. You should
now drill the pilot
holes shown in
diagram 21.
Dia. 22
Pilot
hole
here
Dia. 21
EV0465
EV0466
EV0485
EV0484
Internal
Internal
EV0467
EV0468

20
NB. If you have an extension refer to
the separate manual at the end of
this section (4) and follow the frame
construction as the order of
construction is slightly different to a
standard building.
4
Front Assembly
Diagram 23
Diagram 24
Dia. 24
Dia. 23
Flip each gable section
over so you can fix the
purling bars with 25mm
countersunk screws
(diagram 23 and 24).
EV0466
EV0489
EV0496
EV0410
External
25mm Screw
EV0416
External
External