Brinsea OCTAGON 10 User manual

OCTAGON 10 INCUBATOR
USER INSTRUCTIONS
Contents
Section Subject Page
1 Introduction 2
2 Unpacking 2
3 Location and Installation 3
4 Storage of eggs 3
5 Temperature 4
6 Humidity and Ventilation 4
7 Egg Setting 6
8 Egg Turning 6
9 Hatching 6
10 Cleaning Up 7
11 Servicing 7
12 Troubleshooting 7
13 Specifications 9

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1.0 Introduction
These instructions outline the essential procedure for successful incubation of most domesticated species in the Octagon
10 incubator and Autoturn cradle (if supplied). Please read these instructions carefully before setting up your machine to
achieve best possible results and keep these instructions safe for future reference. For more information and for less
common species, a variety of books is available. However, note particularly that the temperature settings for the Octagon
10 differ slightly from those usually quoted for conventional forced draught and still air incubators.
Fig. 1 Functional features of the Octagon 10 and Autoturn cradle
2.0 Unpacking
Your incubator has been supplied in protective packaging. Please remove all tape, strapping and packing from the
incubator and parts. Retain the carton and packing materials to enable the unit to be repacked.
Your Octagon 10 will include as standard: Quantity Item
Incubator: 1 Incubator (including sliding tray)
1 Set of two egg dividers
1 Spirit thermometer
1 Guarantee Card
Optional Autoturn Cradle 2 Black metal tubes
1 Motorized cradle end
1 Plain cradle end
1Set of four screws
2.1 Please identify each part and check that they are all present and undamaged. If there are any parts damaged or
missing please contact your retailer or Brinsea Products (at the address at the end of the document)
2.2 Check also that the electrical supply matches the machine’s requirements (marked on the technical label on the
side of the incubator and on the side of the autoturn cradle).
2.3 Complete and return your guarantee card to register for the free two year guarantee covering your incubator.
2.4 Go to www.Brinsea.co.uk and register as a free member of the Brinsea e-mail group to receive the latest news
and information such as advance notice about new products, special offers, exclusive competitions and much
more.
Turning Motor
Housing
Temperature Adjuster
Heater Indicator
A
utoturn Cradle
Thermometer

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3.0 Location and Installation
Your incubator will give best results in a room free from wide temperature variations and with generous
ventilation. Ensure that the room temperature cannot drop on a cold night. Ideally thermostatically control the
room at between 20 and 25°C (68 and 77°F). Never allow the room temperature to drop below 15°C (59°F)
and ensure that the incubator cannot be exposed to direct sunlight.
3.1 Assemble the autoturn cradle (if supplied) in accordance with the diagram below (Fig. 2) and place on a flat,
level surface (table height is ideal). Place the incubator into the autoturn cradle as illustrated (Fig. 1). The cabinet
is designed to locate onto the lugs at either end of the autoturn cradle. Take care to offer the incubator at the
angle which matches that of the drive lug to avoid damage to the mechanism. Ensure full engagement in the slots
in the ends of the incubator so that the incubator is level end to end.
3.2 If using without the autoturn cradle place the incubator upright on a flat level surface.
Fig. 2
3.3 Slide out the egg tray and fill one of the two water reservoirs with water or 100:1 Brinsea Incubation
Disinfectant solution leaving the top of the liquid 20mm (3/4”) from the top of the reservoir. Fit the back of the
thermometer into the socket on the door and replace the tray.
3.4 Plug incubator and cradle (if supplied) mains supply cables into suitable outlets ensuring that the cables are not
pulled tight. The incubator will start, the red LED on the temperature control housing will illuminate
continuously. The cradle motor will start and the incubator will begin to turn. The turning is very slow – taking
about half an hour to turn each way.
3.5 Allow the incubator to run for at least an hour to stabilise the temperature before making adjustments or setting
eggs (see section 5.0 below).
4.0 Storage of eggs
4.1 Store eggs in cool, damp conditions. Most species may be safely stored for up to 14 days before serious
reductions in hatch rates are likely. Daily turning of stored eggs also helps maintain hatchability.
4.2 Discard cracked, misshaped and heavily soiled eggs (if possible). Only wash soiled eggs using a branded egg
wash solution such as Brinsea Incubation Disinfectant Concentrate following the manufacturer’s instructions. It
is essential to wash eggs in solution which is significantly warmer than the egg. Bear in mind that all solutions
will remove the outer cuticle from the egg as well as the dirt and may leave the egg at greater risk from bacterial
contamination in the future.

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5.0 Temperature
Stable and correct temperature is essential for good results. Adjust with care.
Note: your incubator may not be set to the correct temperature from the factory and the following
procedure must be followed before setting eggs.
5.1 As the incubator warms up and approaches its control setting the red LED will change from continuously on to
flashing. Allow the incubator to stabilise for at least an hour before adjusting the temperature – check against the
thermometer supplied.
5.2 Rotate the red adjustment spindle on top of the control housing with a small screwdriver – clockwise to increase
temperature, anticlockwise to reduce it. 1°C (2°F) is about ¼ turn of the spindle.
5.3 When reducing temperature the red LED may go out while the incubator cools – this is normal.
5.4 Refer to the thermometer supplied to check temperature. Adjust temperature with care – small differences have
large effects on hatching performance.
Recommended temperatures: Incubation period
Hens 38.5°C 101.3°F 21 days
Pheasant 38.5°C 101.3°F 24 days
Quail 38.5°C 101.3°F 17 days
Geese 38°C 100.4°F 28-32 days
Ducks 38°C 100.4°F 28 days
5.5 Developing embryos are fairly tolerant of short term temperature drops and the user need not be concerned about
cooling that occurs when inspecting eggs. Temperature variations (e.g. day to night) or constantly low
temperatures can cause malformations or partial development of the embryo. Constantly high temperatures can
quickly have a serious detrimental effect on hatch rates and must be avoided.
6.0 Humidity and Ventilation
Short term variations in humidity are not important. The average humidity over the incubation period needs to
be near optimum to achieve the ideal weight loss. High humidity for the day or two of hatching is also important.
Beware chronic, excessive humidity.
6.1 Two factors affect incubation humidity: water evaporation within the cabinet (from eggs as well as from
additional water) and levels of ventilation. The water content of the air being drawn through the incubator will
also have an effect.
6.2 There are two methods available to achieve correct humidity levels in still air incubators:
a) Follow manufacturers guidelines for water and ventilation levels (see below).
b) Monitor egg weight loss which varies as a direct result of humidity and correct against
published weight loss figures for the species.
a) As a general guide for poultry and waterfowl set the eggs with 100:1 Brinsea Incubation Disinfectant
solution in just one reservoir (moulded into the yellow tray just inside the door). Check and top up
water in that reservoir every few days during incubation and add water to the second reservoir 2 days
before the eggs are due to hatch. Higher humidity levels are needed for hatching to prevent membranes
drying too quickly. Never block both vents.
The recommendation above will give good results in most conditions but humidity can be varied by
running the incubator dry for periods to reduce average humidity, or with both pans for increased
humidity. Blocking one vent with tape will also increase humidity – NEVER BLOCK BOTH VENTS.
Caution: excessive humidity can cause problems!

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Incorrect humidity usually results in death at or just before hatching. To solve this try running the
incubator with reduced humidity first, particularly if the problem is linked to warmer weather, by
running the incubator dry for the first week. Only if this does not improve results try increasing
humidity.
b) Measuring humidity accurately is particularly difficult in “still air” incubators. DO NOT USE
HYGROMETERS – they are rarely accurate enough and the relative humidity will be higher at the
bottom where the temperature is lower giving different readings in different places. Preferably weigh
eggs because humidity affects their weight loss. High humidity reduces weight loss and vice-versa.
Eggs lose moisture through their shells and the rate of evaporation depends on the humidity levels
around the eggs and the shell porosity. During incubation eggs need to lose a fixed amount of water
which corresponds to a loss in weight of around 12-14% depending on species. By weighing eggs
periodically during incubation it is possible to monitor and, if necessary, correct humidity levels to
achieve the correct weight loss.
Weigh the eggs on the day they are set in the incubator, take the average weight and plot this on a graph
(see example below). The ideal weight loss line can be plotted by joining the point representing initial
average weight with the ideal hatch weight (12-14% less depending on species) with the x-axis
representing the incubation period (in days).
By measuring actual average weights every few days the actual weight loss can be plotted and
compared to the ideal weight loss line and corrections can be made. For example if the actual weight
loss was greater than ideal (see graph below) then the air has been too dry and humidity levels need to
be increased to compensate.
Typical ideal weight losses for species groups:
Poultry 12%
Waterfowl 14%
Egg weight loss chart
54
56
58
60
62
64
66
68
2 5 8
11 14 17 20
Incubation period (days)
Average egg weight
(grams)
Ideal weight (grams)
Measured weight
(grams)
For more information on the effects of humidity on eggs and ways of avoiding incubation problems
associated with humidity, including weight loss analysis, phone for Brinsea’s free ‘Humidity in
Incubation’ information sheet.
6.3 Alter ventilation and have water in neither, both or one of the water reservoirs to change the humidity level (see
section 6.2a above)
6.4 In all cases the humidity for hatching needs to be high. Because of the short duration involved water/weight loss
will not be significantly affected. High humidity is necessary to prevent membranes drying and hardening before
the hatch fully emerges. Humidity will naturally increase as the first eggs begin to hatch and internal membranes
begin to dry. This effect is in addition to the increased area of water evaporation from the water reservoirs.