Century helicopter products Raven 30 v2 User manual

Raven

30/50 V2

Instruction Manual

R30 R50

MAIN ROTOR 550mm 600mm

TAIL ROTOR DIAMETER 9.7 in 9.7 in

OVERALL LENGTH 46 in 47.5 in

HEIGHT 15 in 15 in

BLADES 550mm 600mm

ENGINE 32 ~ 40 50

Century Helicopter Products

Designed and Developed in USA

SPECIFICATIONS

2oz Header Tank w/ CNC

Machined Mount or Die-

cut Mount

CN2137

CN2213 Machined Mount

CN2137 Die Cut Mount

Aluminum Turbo

Cooling Fan

Increased 15% air flow, lower

engine drag and smoother high

speed operation.

CN2202A Turbo cooling fan

our kits will save some of you hard earned

cash. We have crash kits available for 30 and

50.

( Includes tailboom, Wood blades,

Flybar, Main Shaft & Head Spindle )

CRASH KIT

CN2230HS Crash Kit - 30

CN2230FS Crash Kit - 50

Carbon Fiber Tail Boom

3D flying has high demands from

your helicopter, a carbon tail boom

exceeds all standards for strength and

stiffness.

CN2126H Carbon fiber tail boom 30

CN2126F Carbon fiber tail boom 50

To completely eliminate

slop on control surfaces

(for plastic servo outputs).

CN2189A (Fut) Arm set

CN2185A (JR/Air) Arm set

CN2181A (Hitec) Arm set

Boy! these caps and washers make

you look like a “ PRO” (colors:

Silver, Red, Blue, Gold, Purple,

Green, Black 10pcs/pack)

CNC Machined Finish

Cap & Washer

CN2217 (screw cap)

CN2218 (nut washer)

Adapts to starter shaft push into rubber

insert. For all 30/46 SE (come with

adapter).Extension adapts to most starters.

Reversible One Way &

Hex Start

System

CN0427 One way hex start

CN0427WD extension only

Neon Glow Color

Hot Dog

Paddles

switchless inverted pilots

must try out these lightning

quick paddles! 3& 4 mm.

CN2079Y Neon Yellow 3mm - 30

CN2079R Glow Red 3mm - 30

CN2079O Glow Orange 3mm - 30

CN2079YA Neon Yellow 4mm - 50

CN2079RA Glow Red 4mm - 50

CN2079OA Glow Orange 4mm - 50

Century Optional Upgrades

(Raven 30/50)

O.S. Throttle Extension

Aluminum C.N.C. machined

throttle extension (purple andized)

CN2153 32SXH, 46FXH & TT36H

CN2154 50SXH

Carbon Graphite

Tail Boom Support

Super high quality, extremely

light weight and ready to install

dual tail boom support kit.

CN2128 Carbon Tail Struts R30

CN2128C Carbon Tail Struts R50

Tuff landing Gear Systems

3 times tuffer than most 30-40

size helicopter landing gear.

Tuff struts act as shock absorb-

ers which help reduce jolts

caused by hard landings.

CN2243 Tuff landing gear

(Raven & all 30 heli)

Hot Dog 3-D C

arbon Fin set

3D Hot Dog pilot can’t miss this light

and durable carbon fiber tail fin set.

CN2240H Hawk carbon fin set

Any pilot moving into 3D or

aerobatics should miss this item.

Transfers all loading from the regular

radial bearings to the thrust bearing.

CN2220A Thrust Kit 10mm

10mm Hot Dog Main

Shaft Thrust B.B. Kit

Color Gelcoat FRP

Canopy w/Fin Set

Century proudly introduces our

highest Quality FRP colored canopy

w/ Fins (Blue, Yellow & Green) for

all 30/46 SE

CN2242AP Red, Yellow, Blue

CN2242G Canopy w/ Fins Green

CN2242B Canopy w/ Fins Blue

CN2242Y Canopy w/ Fins Yellow

Speed Torpedo HV II

Tuned Muffler

Finally a more powerful, larger,

quieter tuned muffler come out to

improve your engine performance.

CN3033 for R30

CN3033B for R50

(Raven 30/50)

Millenium Tuned Pipe

CN3055H for R30

CN3055F for R50

Feature the highest performance

and quality construction for all

the Raven 30 and 50 class.

CNC Machined Aluminum

Servo Arm

Pack

(Raven 30/50)

CN2213

(Hawk, Falcon &

Raven)

Table of Contents

Table of Contents .......................................................................................................................................... 2

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 3

Required Items for Assembly ....................................................................................................................... 4

Building Guide for Raven 30 & 50 kits ..................................................................................................... 5

Main Rotor Head & Seesaw Assembly Step 1-2 ............................................ 6

Bell Mixers & Main Rotor Grips Step 3-4 ............................................ 7

Flybar & Flybar Control Yoke Step 5-6 ............................................ 8

Washout & Swashplate Assembly Step 7-8 ............................................ 9

Start Shaft Assembly & Hex Coupler Step 9-10 ........................................ 10

Tail Trans Output Shaft - R30/R50 Step 11A-11B ................................. 11

Counter Gear Assembly - R30/50 Step 12 ............................................ 12

Main Gear, Main Shaft Step 13A-14 .................................... 13

Upper Side Frames Step 15 ............................................14

Upper Frame Assembly & Front CCPM Servo Mounts Step 16 - 16A.................................. 15

Rear CCPM & Rudder Servo Mounts Step 17 ............................................ 16

Clutch, Clutch Bell, Fan, Shroud & Engine Mount Step 18-19 ....................................... 17

Fuel Tank & Lower Frames Step 20-21 ....................................... 18

Upper & Lower Frame Assembly Step 22-23 ....................................... 19

Final Rotor Head Assembly & Muffler Step 24-25 ....................................... 20

Landing Gear & Tail Output Shaft Step 26-27 ....................................... 21

Tail Pitch Plate & Tail Input Shaft - R30/50 Step 28-29B ....................................22

Tail Gearbox & Tail Rotor Grips Step 30-31 ....................................... 23

Tail Blades & Tail Drive Shaft Guides - R30 Step 32-34A.................................... 24

Tail Drive Shaft - R30 & Torque Drive Shaft - R50 Step 34B-34C ................................. 25

Tail Gearbox Assembly - R30/50 Step 35A-34B ................................. 26

Vertical Tail Fin & Final Tail Boom Assembly Step 36-37 ....................................... 27

Horizontal Tail Fin, Tail Struts Step 38 ............................................ 28

CCPM Radio Setup Step 39 ............................................29

Pushrod Setup Step 40 ............................................30

Radio, Servo and Adjustments ........................................................ 31

CCPM Swashplate Linkage Setup Step 41 ............................................ 32

CCPM Rotor Head & Rudder Linkage Setup Step 42 - 43 ..................................... 33

Throttle Linkage & Aerotech Main Blade Step 44 - 44A.................................. 34

Hurricane Carbon Blades Step 45B ......................................... 35

Canopy & Decal Step 46-47 ....................................... 36

Radio Components & Balancing ................................................................................................................ 37

Radio Setup ................................................................................................................................................ 38

Tail Rotor Setup & Gyro Setup .................................................................................................................. 39

Starting the Engine - Basic Hovering - Pre Flight Checkup & Log ..................................................... 40-42

Replacement Parts List ............................................................................................................................... 43

Upgrades & Optional Parts .................................................................................................... 44-Back Cover

CN2230HS Raven 30 Crash Kit -(Wooden Main Blades, Main Shaft, 1

Tail Boom, Feathering Shaft and Flybar)

CN2230FS Raven 50 Crash Kit -(Wooden Main Blades, Main Shaft, 1

Tail Boom, Feathering Shaft and Flybar)

HW3000 Hardware Pack 1

HW3005A Hardened Start Shaft Assembly 1

HI3007 Starter Shaft Bearing Blocks 1

HI3009 Cooling Fan 1

HI3010A Machined Clutch Bell & Lining 1

HI3010B Clutch Gear Only 26T 1

HW3011 Clutch Shoes 1

HW3017 Engine Mount - 30 1

HW3018A Engine Mount - 46/50 1

HI3020A Cooling Fan Shroud 1

HI3040 Counter Drive Gear 1

HW3042 Primary Drive Shaft 1

HW3045 Alloy Drive Gear 13T - R30 1

CN2224 Alloy Drive Gear 14T - R50 1

HW3053A Main Shaft - 10mm 1

HW3054A Main Shaft Lock Ring - 10mm 1

HI3056 Main Gear 1

HW3057 Tail Drive Bevel Gear 1

HW3059 Tail Drive Primary Shaft - R30 1

HW3059A Tail Drive Primary Torque Shaft w/Spacer - R50 1

HW3062 Tail Boom - R30 1

HW3062A Tail Boom - R50 1

HW3063 Tail Drive Shaft Set - R30 1

HW3063C Tail Drive Shaft Set - R50 1

HW3064E Tail Pitch Control Rod & Connector - R30 1

HW3064F Tail Pitch Control Rod & Connector - R50 1

HI3067A Tail Fin Set R30/50 1

HW3070 Tail Gearbox Input Shaft - R30 1

HW3070A Tail Gearbox Torque Input Shaft - R50 1

HW3073 Tail Gearbox Output Shaft 1

HI3074 Tail Gear Spacer Tube 1

HI3075 Tail Gear Set 1

HI3078 Tail Gearbox L&R 1

HI3087 Tail Pitch Slider Set 1

HI3089 Tail Pitch Ball Links 2

HI3096A Tail Blade Grip (1 piece/ 3BB type) 2

HW3098A Tail Rotor Hub 1

HI3099 Tail Rotor Blades (Pair) 1

HI3102A Tail Pitch Lever Set - Standard R30 1

HI3102B Tail Pitch Lever Set - BB Type R50 1

HI3106 Tail Pushrod Guide Set 3

HI3107 Upper Side Frames 2

HW3112C Lower Side Frames 2

HW3115B Upper Servo Frame Set CCPM - R30/50 2

HW3115C Lower Servo Frame Set & Battery Tray 2

HI3122 Landing Struts (Plastic) - R30 1

HI3122A Landing Struts, Low Profile (Plastic) - R50 1

HW3123 Landing Skids (Alloy) - R30 2

HW3123A Landing Skids (Alloy) - R50 2

HW3127A Hex Frame Spacers, Extention Rod & Canopy Side Mount 1

HI3129B Canopy Quick Mount 1

HI3130B Canopy Only 1

HI3131J Raven 30/50 Decal Set 1

HI3132F Raven 30/50 Instruction Manual 1

Raven 30/50 Upgrade Parts

CN0427A One way Hex start system w/hex adapter - 5mm

CN0520 Carbon torque tube tail drive 2 B.B - R30

CN2007A Trainer Pod 30/46 w/4 fiberglass Legs

CN2008A Trainer Pod 50/60-Gas w/4 long fiberglass Legs

CN2015 Hardened Tip Hex Wrench Set (4 piece ground tips)

CN2016 4.8V on -board Battery Monitor/Alarm

CN2018 PG2000 II remote on/off Piezo Gyro

CN2046 Basic Heli Setup Tool Kit (pitch gauge, blade balancer, pliers & etc.)

CN2052 Accuratech Machined Blade Balancer

CN2079R Fast 3-D Hot dog fly bar paddles (R red, O orange, Y yellow) - R30

CN2079RA Fast 3-D Hot dog fly bar paddles (R red, O orange, Y yellow) - R50

CN2122 Carbon fiber flybar stiffeners - R30

CN2123 Carbon fiber flybar stiffeners - R50

CN2137 2 oz Header Tank w/ Universal Bracket -purple

CN2155 Piston Locking Tool - purple

CN2153 Machined Throttle Extension - OS32SX,46FX, TT36H -purple

CN2202 AluminumTurbo cooling fan - purple

CN2207 CNC Machined Washout Mixing Arms (2)

HI3133A Clear Windshield ( for HI3130B Canopy) 1

HI3138A Fuel Tank w/ Fittings 1

HI3145 Ball Links (16 L, 6 S) 1

HI6146 Metal 120 Degree Swashplate Set/ CCPM - 10mm 1

HI3152C Washout Set - 10mm 1

HI3152A Radius Link With 12mm Pin 2

HI3160C Rotor Head Block - 10mm 1

HI3167B Seesaw Off Set Plate 2

HI3167D Seesaw Bearing Cup - R30 2

HI3167E Special Ball Set M3X6 2

HI3167F Seesaw Bearing Cup - R50 2

HI3167G Seesaw Tie Bar, Screw & Spacers 2

HW3170A Washout Pins 2x30mm 2

HW3173 Flybar - R30 (3mm) 1

HW3173A Flybar - R50 (4mm) 1

HI3176B Flybar Control Arm - R30 (3mm) 2

HI3176C Flybar Control Arm - R50 (4mm) 2

HI3179 Flybar Paddles - R30 (3mm) 2

HI3179A Flybar Paddles - R50 (4mm) 2

HW3180A Feathering Shaft - 6mm 1

HI3181 Damping Rubbers 2

HI3184 Rotor Blade Grip 2

HI3189A Bell Mixing Arm Set 1

HW3192A Linkage Set (CCPM) - R30/50 1

HW3202B Tail Boom Support Struts - R30 2

HW3202C Tail Boom Support Struts - R50 2

HI3205 Servo Mounting Tab Set 10

HI3206 Tail Pushrod Coupler 1

HW3204 Throttle Extension 1

CN0402 Hex Start Adapter w/set screw(5mm) 1

CNLR1003 Micro Washer 3x5x0.5T 10

CNLR1013 Black M2 Steel Ball - Short (servos) 2

CNLR1014 Stainless M3 Steel Ball - Short (ail bellcrank) 2

CNLR1015 Stainless M3 Steel Ball - Med (washout arms) 2

CNLR1016A Stainless M3 Steel Ball - Long (bell mixer) 2

CNLR1017 Stainless M3 Steel Ball - Special Long Thread (seesaw) 2

CN2322 Aerotech 3D 550mm pre-built wood blade (pair) - R30 1

CN2400 Hurricane 3D 550mm Sym Carbon Main Blades (pair) - R30 1

CN2411 Hurricane FAI 560mm Semi Carbon Main Blades (pair) - R30 1

CN2412 Hurricane 3D 600mm Sym Carbon Main Blades (pair) - R50 1

CN2413 Hurricane FAI 600mm Semi Carbon Main Blades (pair) - R50 1

Ball Bearings

CNBB0360F Ball Bearing 3x6x2.5 (Tail Pitch Lever) 2

CNBB0730 Ball Bearing 3x7x3 (Flybar, Mixing arms) 2

CNBB0930 Ball Bearing 3x9x2.5 (Tail Grips) 2

CNBB0840 Ball Bearing 4x8x3 (Flybar R50) 2

CNBB49T Ball Bearing 4x9x4 Thrust (Tail Grips) 1

CNBB1150 Ball Bearing 5x11x4 (Start Shaft, Tail Output Shaft) 2

CNBB1350 Ball Bearing 5x13x4 (Counter Shaft, Input Tail Shaft) 2

CNBB1360 Ball Bearing 6x13x5 (Main Blade Grip) 2

CNBB1260T Ball Bearing 6x12x4 Thrust (Main Blade Grip) 2

CNBB1060 Ball Bearing 6x10x3 (Pitch Plate) 2

CNBB1980 Ball Bearing 8x19x6 (Lower Main Shaft) 2

CNBB1019 Ball Bearing 10x19x5 (Upper Main Shaft) 2

CNBB1812 Ball Bearing 12x18x4 (Clutch Bell) 1

HW3050 Autorotation One Way Bearing Set 1

Raven Replacement Parts

CN2213 2oz Header Tank w/ Machined Mount Bracket - purple

CN2214B Air Filter (OS32-50, TT36-46)

CN2215A Head Button (silver)

CN2215AB Head Button (B-black, P-purple)

CN2217P Machined Aluminum Anodize Color Caps - purple

CN2218P Machined Aluminum Anodize Color Washers - purple

CN2126H Ultra Light Carbon Graphite Tail Boom - R30

CN2126F Ultra Light Carbon Graphite Tail Boom - R50

CN2240H Ultra Light Carbon Graphite Tail Fin Set

CN2128 Ultra Light Carbon Graphite Tail Boom Supports - R30

CN2128C Ultra Light Carbon Graphite Tail Boom Supports - R50

CN2263 Constant Tail Drive - R30

CN2263A Constant Tail Drive - R50

CN3033 Speed torpedo 30 HV Muffler -Polished Aluminum - R30

CN3033A Speed torpedo 46 HV Muffler -Polished Aluminum -R50

CN3055H Millennium 30 Tuned Pipe Set - R30

CN3055F Millennium 46/50 Tuned Pipe Set - R50

Building Instructions for the Raven eCCPM helicopter kits.

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of Century Helicopter Product's newest RC helicopter model. The

Raven eCCPM is a new breed of helicopter, ideal for beginners new to the hobby through to

expert pilots. In order for our helicopters to improve, we needed to provide higher value for a

better price, but this needed revising. Our result is this kit you are about to start building,

offering the best design and quality of the 30 and 50 class and including features commonly

found only in more expensive kits. This kit will exceed your expectations for precision control

at an affordable price.

Warning

This radio controlled model is not a toy! It is a precision machine requiring proper assembly and

setup to avoid accidents. It is the responsibility of the owner to operate this product in a safe manner

as it can inflict serious injury otherwise. It is recommended that if you are doubt of your abilities,

seek assistance from experienced radio control modelers and associations. As manufacturer, we

assume no liability for the use of this product.

Pre-assembly Information

Upon opening the kit, all the major component parts are bagged and numbered for ease of assembly

which correspond to the sections of the manual. Various assemblies have been pre-assembled only

requiring the final assembly and installation onto the particular part, screws and nuts required for

each step are packaged in the same bag as the parts. Be careful when opening each bag as not to lose

any hardware. Care has been taken in filling and packing of each bag however mistakes do happen,

if there is a parts shortage or missing hardware please contact us at:

Century Helicopter Products

1740-C Junction Ave.

San Jose, CA. 95112

www.centuryheli.com

(1) Collective & Throttle: Slowly raise the

throttle stick, the helicopter should lift off at half

stick. If it tends not to lift off increase the hover

pitch on the radio or increase the throttle trim. If

the helicopter lifts off before mid stick decrease

these settings.

(2) Rudder: When the helicopter is ready to take

off, make a correction trim first then use the

rudder stick to control the Left & Right. Note,

now is a good time to make a final adjustment on

the gyro, see gyro manual.

(3) Elevator: If at hover the helicopter tends to

move forward, move the trim down, if it moves

backward move the trim upwards Use the eleva-

tor stick to control the Forward & Backward.

(4) Roll (Aileron): If at hover the helicopter

tends to move left, move the trim right, if the

helicopter moves to the right move the trim left.

Move the Aileron stick to control the slide of the

helicopter to the Right & Left.

PRE-FLIGHT CHECK UP & TRIM ADJUSTMENTS

All trim adjustments are to allow you to lift

the helicopter straight up and can be made

one click or detent at a time on the radio.

Hovering When all is set, ready and checked, attach your training gear/pod and start the engine.

(1) Place the helicopter pointing into the wind and stand behind the model about 15' away.

(2) Always watch the nose of the helicopter, move the rudder left and the nose will move left.

(3) Start by increasing the throttle slowly until the helicopter rises 2-6 inches off the ground then set it back down.

(4) Repeat this process until you become comfortable with the holding the model in the same spot for a few

seconds then land it.

After some time at this you can increase the height slightly up to 1 foot ( be very carefull not to get too high ) as

you are practising taking off and landing. This is the most basic but required skill for the beginner to learn.

Beyond Hovering

It cannot be stressed enough that mastering the hovering skill is crucial to becoming a good helicopter pilot. As

you progress in your learning, always practise hovering until you are completely comfortable in holding the

helicopter in any direction at any altitude. Perfecting hovering enables you to learn all the types and styles of

helicopter flying, forward flight, loops and rolls, 3D (aerobatic flying) and anything you want to do with your

Hawk helicopter as it can be set up for beginner through to expert. Lastly, have fun!!

Basic Hovering

Pre-Flight Checklist

1. After turning radio on, move each servo separately, looking for unusual or excessive movement.

2. Lubricate the main shaft above the swashplate and the pitch slider on the tail output shaft with oil.

3. Inspect the main and tail rotor grips for play or binding.

4. Turn the main gear in both directions to feel if a problem is developing in the drive train.

5. Check the glow plug and fuel lines for signs of wear.

Necessary Items “Not Included” in the kit

6 Channel Helicopter Radio or Equivalent.

Glow Remote Adapter

CN2222

32-40Helicopter Engine

50 Helicopter Engine

Tuned Muffler 30 size CN3033

Tuned Muffler 46 size CN3033B

Necessary Tools for Assembly and Adjustments

Main Blade Pitch Gauge

w/PaddleGauge

CN2026

Ball Link

Plier

CN2034

15% or 30%

Heli Fuel

12Volt Start Battery

12Volt

Starter

Fuel

Line

Eletric Fuel

Pump or

Hand Pump

Glow Starter w/Charger

5.5mm,7mm, Phillips

Screw Driver

4 Way Wrench

CN2031

Hobby

Scissors

Allen Key Set CNBN10946 Hobby Knife

Metric

Ruler

Locktite

Servo Tape

Lubrication CN2024T

Tie-Wraps

Fuel Filter Glow Plug

Whip Antenna

Needle Nose Pliers

& Cutter Pliers

PG2000 II piezo gyro

CN2018

1) Servo direction for the throttle channel. Turn on the transmitter switch, then the switch

on the helicopter, move the throttle/collective stick to the low position, the carburetor arm should

look exactly like the diagram (1a). Watch the throttle servo. As you raise (increase) the left stick the

throttle pushrod will move towards the front of the helicopter, all carburetors work the same, as the

throttle arm is rotated by the throttle pushrod, the barrel of the carburetor rotates counter-clockwise as

it opens. If this does not happen you need to reverse the servo direction and reset the throttle arm in Step

20. Starting the engine at full power will possibly damage the engine and will damaged clutch components on the

helicopter.

The model engine is the single most difficult part of model helicopters to the beginner, second only to learning to fly. For this

reason we have taken the time to go through starting the engine the first time with you to help you to understand the basic

operation and tuning of the engine.

Starting the engine for the first time.

(1a)

Items to recheck:

2) Fueling the engine. Open the gallon of fuel and insert draw line from the fuel pump into the fuel, remove the fuel line at the

carburetor inlet and connect to the fueling line of the fuel pump. Fill the tank until you start to see bubbles moving in the pressure line

to the muffler. Reverse the pump for 1 second and disconnect the lines starting with the fueling line and reconnect to the carburetor.

Recap the fuel to keep moisture out. Only fuel the model when you are setup and actually ready to start the engine, it is common for

the carburetor to fill with fuel while sitting on the bench over a brief period of time. More common is the engine flooding while trying

to start. This the case as you are starting with an electric starter the engine initially turns easily but soon slows down.

3) Last pre-flight checks. Make sure that both the radio Tx and Rx have been charged overnight and the glow starter (if recharge-

able). Do a range check, walk away from your helicopter with the antenna fully collapsed to 30 paces and have someone verify that

all control surfaces are operating. If you do not make this distance have an experienced modeler check over your setup, do not fly

until then.

4) Cranking the engine over. When a brand new engine does not start there are only three major possibilities: a) the glow plug is not

hot enough or already burned out or b) fuel is not getting to the carburetor or c) too much fuel is entering the carburetor. This is

assuming you have gone through step 1 in this page. Connect the starter to a 12Volt source and verify that the starter will turn the

starting cone counter-clockwise. Connect the glow starter connector to a 1.5Volt source or use a rechargeable glow starter. Do not

connect yet.

• Move the throttle stick to the low position with the trim in the center.

• Look at the fuel line entering the carburetor, is there fuel in the line, if not pull the fuel line off and check.

• If there is no fuel in the line, reconnect and push down on the start cone and turn the engine by hand until you see fuel entering the

carb. make one more revolution. Putting a finger over the muffler exhaust hole will help.

• Connect the glow starter to the glow plug, place one hand firmly on the rotor head, absolutely at all times keep your hand on the

rotor head, should the engine start anywhere above idle you will only have a few seconds to put the starter down and pull the fuel

line off the carburetor line going to the engine. It is a good idea to make sure you are standing/kneeling on the fuel line side.

• Place the starter on the starting cone and push down, before you start, rotate the cone with the engine engaged backwards (clock

wise) until you feel the compression increase.

• Press the button on the electric starter, there will be an initial popping sound as the engine turns over and within a few seconds the

engine should start. If it does, while holding the rotor head put down the electric starter and move the throttle trim down until the

engine continues to run at the lowest speed without quitting. If the engine starts to die simply move the trim up one or two clicks.

Do not move the throttle stick from the low position.

5) The engine does not start. Do not continue to crank the engine over if it does not start.

a) Remove and check the glow plug, is the glow plug dry or wet? Connect to the glow starter or the glow connector and verify that

the element glows a bright orange to a white color, if you get an orange glow then your glow starter is not supplying enough power

to the glow plug.

b) If the glow plug is wet, then the engine is receiving fuel. If the glow plug is dry, no fuel is reaching the engine. Try re-priming the

engine, point #3 step 4. Again verify that the engine is receiving fuel.

c) Is the engine very difficult to turn over, to the point that the electric starter is unable to turn the cone? If yes, you have successfully

filled the engine and carburetor with fuel, do not force the starter as you can damage the starter and prematurely wear out the

starting cone and ultimately the starting shaft will fail. First, disconnect the glow starter and pickup the helicopter and tip forwards

and backwards with the muffler side down. This will drain the muffler of raw fuel. Next turn the cone until the half past the

highest compression point, here the exhaust port will open and again drain through the muffler. Try to start again. Same problem,

remove the glow plug and spin the engine (without) plug and any excess fuel will be expelled, replace glow plug and try again.

If the engine still doesn’t start, contact an experience modeler to help you with starting the engine, the problem maybe very simple.

This manual has been written for both the Raven 30 and 50 helicopter. CN1060 Raven 30 kit and

CN1061 raven 50 kit. The main portion of the manual covers the full construction of both kits with

labeling for both 30 & 50 respectively.

Every attempt has been made to ease the assembly of your kit, at each step where there are complex

instructions there are detailed written instructions to walk you through each step. Remember to take a

few minutes before each step to carefully examine each step to become familar with the parts and assem-

bly before beginning that step.

Raven 30/50 Construction Manual

Symbols used to help assist you in building the kit:

Recommended Tools & Accessories

Apply

oil

Apply

threadlock

Special

Attention

Full Scale

Drawing

Repeat Steps

as specified

Apply JB

Weld

Partially

tighten

Purchased

Separately

Apply

Grease

Cut away

Shaded

Portion

Helpful

Tip

Hardware Description and Identification: M3x6 = 3x6mm and can refer to screws or ball bearings.

M3x6 Phillips Machine Screw

M - metric

3 - diameter

6 - length

M3x6 Self Tapping Screw

M - metric

3 - diameter

6 - length

M3x10 Socket Cap Screw

M - metric

3 - diameter

6 - length

3x7 Ball Bearing

M - metric

3 - inside

6 - outside

Part#CN2015 Hardened Tip Hex Screw Driver Set

Part#CN2026 Pitch Gauge with Paddle Gauge.

Part#CN2034A 150 Curve Tip Ball link Pliers.

Part#CN2052 Main Blade Balancer.

Part#CN2054 Special Glow Plug Wrench Set.

Part#CN2055 Ball Link Sizing Tool.

Part#CN2070 Universal Flybar Lock.

Part#CN2155 Piston Locking Tool.

Part#CN2219 Ball Link Easy Driver.

Part#CN2255 Control Rod Guage.

Part#CNWI26555 5.5mm Nut Driver.

Part#CNWI26570 7.0mm Nut Driver..

Screwdrivers - Slotted and Phillips head.

Long-Nosed Pliers.

Allen Wrenches - 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm.

( supplied in kit ) + 3.0mm

Appropriate Socket Wrench

(glow plug wrench for engine shaft nut)

Hobby Scissors

Double Sided Foam Tape ( 1/16" - 3/32" )

Foam Rubber ( radio packing )

JB Weld ( bond clutch lining )

Thread lock liquid (e.g. Locktite)

Hobby Grease ( Super Lube )

Oil to lubricate sliding shafts.

The tools and materials listed below are

the minimum needed to build the helicopter:

In addition, the following will make assembly and setup

easier, and prove useful later in your model toolbox:

Remove oil

residue from

fasteners before applying

any threadlock agent.

Tap holes with

machine screws

before installing steel

balls in plastic.

Tap holes with

machine screws

before installing self tap

screws in plastic.

Tap holes with

machine screws

carefully in plastic holes

with bottoms.

Fuel 15-30% Helicopter fuel is recommended

containing more oil. Use a fuel filter between

the fuel gallon and the heli to remove any dirt

that could stall the engine. Fuel the helicopter

by removing the fuel line from the carburator

and replace when finished.

Needle Valve Following the engine manufactur-

ers instructions, turn the main needle valve until

closed and open to the setting the instructions

call for. Different engines will have different

settings.

Radio Always turn the transmitter on first,

then the helicopter & gyro and reverse when

finished, turn off the heli & gyro first then the

transmitter. If the radio acts erratically or

intermittent, find the problem before starting

the engine.

Glow Plugs Using a glow plug connector, re-

move the canopy or optionally use a remote glow

plug connector to heat the glow plug. Warning!!

glow plugs operate at 1.5V **not 12V.**

Engine Before starting the engine, check the

correct direction of rotation and make sure the

electric starter is turning the same direction.

Starting Start the engine from low throttle with the

trim centered. Holding the rotor head in one hand,

angle the starter and press down slightly to engage the

starting shaft into the fan. Start the electric starter

until the engine starts. If the engine does not start

recheck all previous points. The main blades will not

turn until the engine RPM is above idle.

Stopping To stop the engine, with the throttle stick

in the low position, move the trim all the way to the

low position.

Starting Your Engine

First Flights For the beginner pilot, a training pod is strongly recommended to assist in learining to

hover the helicopter with substantially reduced risk of crashing. These systems provide an on ground

training capability to allow pilots to become familiar with the helicopter before actually leaving the ground.

Pitch In steps 41-44 you setup the pitch range using

a pitch gauge and setting the pushrods on the servo

horns at specific distances. Once the helicopter is

flying the pitch setting have to be fine tuned. Using

appropriate training gear, increase the throttle until just

before the helicopter lifts off and sight the rotor disk

from 15' back. If there appears to be 2 rotor disks then

adjust Pushrod C until only one disk appears. Using

colored tape mark one blade so you can adjust the

correct blade.

Adjusting the Blade Tracking

Q. The engine does not turn easily with the starter.

A. The starter battery may be too weak or the engine

is flooded. For flooding, remove the glow plug and

turn the engine over several times to clear the com-

bustion chamber of fuel and retry.

Q. The engine rotates and tries to start but doesn't.

A. The glow plug may be getting old. The glow plug

batteries are weak. The starter may be turning the

wrong direction.

If the Engine Does Not Start

Q. The engine just does not start.

A. The glow plug may be burned out. Fuel may not

be getting to the engine, check for a clogged fuel line,

dirt in the carburator or the main needle needs to be

opened out slightly.

Q. The engine starts but immediately stops.

A. There is a clog in the fuel line, the carburator is not

open enough at idle- open the throttle trim by 1-2

clicks. Helicopter engines have a low speed needle

which is factury set, beginners should not adjust it!!

Before each flight, check that all bolts and screws are tight. Simply flying your helicopter, will loosen any

screws which are not threadlocked or secured with a lock nut.

Before Flying your Helicopter

Rotor head Block

[HI3160C]

Washout Pins

2.6x30mm x 2

[HW3170A]

Damper Rubber x 2

[HI3181]

Step 1 Rotor Head Block

From parts bag 1: Press in the

Damper Rubbers and the Washout

Pins into the Head Block. Apply one

drop of medium CA glue after the

pins are fully seated. The two M3x4

set screws are for static tracking of

the blades. Install the two M3x4 set

screws and torque evenly to maintain

static tracking of the rotor blades.

Special Long Ball x 2

[CNLR1017]

Completed rotor head.

3x7 Ball Bearing x 2

[CNBB0730] - 30

Tie Bar x 2

[HI3167G]

Completed Rotor

Head from Step 1

Bearing Cup x 2

[HI3167D] - 30

Offset Plate x 2

[HI3167B]

M3x6 Button Head

Socket Screw x 2

[HI3167E]

Step 2 Seesaw Assembly

Bearing Cup x 2

[HI3167F] - 50

Take notice of the location

of the two special steel balls

on the offset plates.

4x8 Ball Bearing x 2

[CNBB0840] - 50

From parts bag 1: Insert one ball

bearing into each bearing cup and

insert into the offset plate. Apply

one small drop of medium CA glue

to the back side of the bearing cup to

secure to the offset plate. Insert one

ball bearing into each tie bar. Insert

one M3x6 button head screw

through the right side hole of the

offset plate into one tie bar. Make

two identical sub assemblies. Note

that the bearing cups face outwards

from the head block. Insert one

M3x15 button head screw through

the tie bar bearing, slide one steel

spacer and carefully apply

threadlock to the exposed threads

and insert into the right side of the

head block. Do not overtighten.

Repeat for the second sub assembly.

Once complete, insert one M3x7

Special ball into each offset plate to

complete the assembly.

3x7 Ball Bearing x 2

[CNBB0730]

Tie Bar Spacer x 2

[HI3167G]

M3x15 Button Head

Socket Screw x 2

[HI3167G]

M3x4 Set

Screw x 2

For each flight mode setting, there will be different

Revo-mixing amounts. For forward flight the settings

will be lower than hovering due to the aerodynamic

forces effecting the helicopter. Here is a starting point

for revo values:

Tail Rotor Setup

Problem: Not enough

pitch in tail rotor to

match torque setting of

engine.

Action: Increase pitch

by shortening the

rudder pushrod.

1Nose rotates

left at hover.

Pilot

2Nose rotates

right at hover.

Problem: Too much

pitch in tail rotor to

match torque setting of

engine.

Action: Decrease pitch

by lengthening the

rudder pushrod.

What separates airplane radio equipment from the

helicopter version is in the control of the individual

curves discussed earlier and in the Revo-mixing*.

Take a moment to consider the helicopter

hovering in front of you.

Once the tail rudder pushrod is adjusted

correctly so the tail does not rotate ( don't consider

wind now ) the revolution mixing can be adjusted.

*Revolution Mixing

The revolution mixing function allows the helicopter

to climb or descend without the tail rotating. These

setting are set when using regular piezo rate gyros, if

using a Heading Hold gyro remove all tail mixing.

There is a high & low setting on the helicopter radio.

The values shown will vary depending on engine,

blade pitch and fuel but provide a starting point for

the beginner.

These values correspond to the total travel for the tail

rotor pitch. To adjust the high setting, hold the

helicopter at hover and increase the throttle so the

helicopter climbs steadily. Notice the direction the

nose rotates:

High Stick Setting: 40

Low Stick Setting: 20

Normal Flight

Mode

left increase revo value to

increase tail pitch.

right decrease revo value to

decrease tail pitch.

Nose rotates

High

Low

To adjust the low setting, start from a high hover and

decrease the throttle to descend, notice which direc-

tion the helicopter rotates.

Gyro Gain Adjustment

The gyro assists in holding the tail rotor, actually

compensating for changes in wind direction or quick

movements.

First check that the gyro is installed correctly

by watching the rudder servo. While holding the

rotor head move the rudder stick to the right and

observe the direction the servo arm moves. Now

quickly rotate the nose to the left, the servo horn

should move in the same direction. If the rudder

servo horn moves in the opposite direction reverse the

gyro direction.

Generally the starting setting for the gyro gain is

60%, keep increasing the gain setting until the tail

starts oscillating back and forth, then reduce the

setting slightly.

Problem: Tail rotor makes sudden uncontrolled

rotations.

Solution: The gyro direction is possibly set in the

wrong direction.

Pilot

From parts bag 1: Iznsert

the Feathering Shaft into

the head block, slide one

M6X10 Washer on each side of

the shaft. Install the blade grip ( Note

the direction of the bell mixer arm )

followed by one M8x13 Washer,

one M6x12 Thrust Ball Bearing

( install the first steel washer

(large inside diameter)

followed by the ball race,

remember to grease the ball

race, followed by the second

steel washer (smaller inside

diameter) and one M5

Locknut. Tighten the

locknut, using the glow

plug socket wrench on

one nut while holding

the other with pliers,

tighten the nuts until both blade

grips turn freely without any excessive end

play. Assemble Pushrod I x 2, according to the

table in the box, measuring 26mm center to center following the diagram on

page 30, and connect the seesaw ball to the long ball on the bell mixer.

Feathering Shaft

[HW3180A]

From parts bag 1: R30 insert the slide

tube into the bell mixer arm (Note:

the oilite bearings

are pre-installed) and secure

onto the blade grip with one

M3x16 Socket Cap screw and

M3x7 Flat washer. R50 install

one Long Ball and one Short Ball (Tip

2) into the Bell Mixer, press one

3x7mm Ball Bearing into one side

followed by one 3x5mm spacer and the

one more bearing from the opposite

side. Insert one M3x16 Socket Cap

Screw (Tip 4) through the arm (make

sure the flush side faces out) with one

3x5x0.5 Washer being careful not to

overtighten the screw. File the bolt

flush to the inside of the blade grip

mount. Install two M6x13 Ball Bear-

ings into both ends of the blade grip

assembly. Complete the second blade

grip in exactly the same way.

STEP 3 Main Blade Grip Assembly

3D setup = 26mm

Long Ball

M6x10 Flat

Washer x 2

Short Ball

Main Rotor Blade Grip

from Step 3

M8x13 Flat

Washer x 2

M5 Lock-

nut x 2

Top of blade

grip has Bevel.

STEP 4 Feathering Spindle & Blade Grip Assembly

6x12 Thrust Ball

Bearing x 2

[BB1260T]

See page 30 for

referrence.

Pushrod (I x 2)

Beginner = 28mm

Rotor Head Setup

26-28mm

M3x7 Flat

Washer

6x13 Ball Bearing

[CNBB1360]

Main Rotor

Blade Grip

[HI3184]

M3x5x3

Spacer M3x16 Socket

Cap Screw

3x5x0.5

Washer

Short Ball

[CNLR1014]

Bell Mixer Arm

[HI3189A]

Long Ball

[CNLR1016A]

3x7 Ball

Bearing x 2

[CNBB0730]

Slide Tube

Oilite

Bushing

Bell Mixer Arm

[HI3189]

R-30

R-50

Travel Adjustment ( endpoints )

Using endpoints to adjust to the limits of how far the servo is allowed to move is very convenient for fast set-up.

If binding occurs simply reduce the travel in that direction. ** Note: by changing one side only (high or low

stick) the servo travel is no longer linear which will tend to make that control surface unstable. It is better to set

the high/low adjustments the same, or make actual pushrod adjustments.

Sub Trims

The sub trims on the outside of

your transmitter are used to fine

tune the servo center positions

while testing or in-flight. If the

trim has to be moved more than

2-3 divisions then readjust the

linkage length to set the trim

back in the center.

Exponential

The exponential function

allows adjustment of how

sensitive the cyclic controls are

when the machine is hovering.

This should be left at 0%

(linear) until all trimming is

complete.

Pitch & Throttle Curve Adjustments

The ultimate goal for adjusting the curves on your heli-

copter is to reduce how much the tail rotor moves during

flight and aerobatics. This leads to maintaining a consis-

tent main rotor RPM which can only be achieved through

adjusting the individual values which control the pitch

and throttle at a given stick position.

Dual Rates

For beginners ( using the flybar weights )

the dual rate values should be set at 100%

for both switch positions until hovering

has been mastered.

Normal position: (high rate) 100%

Switch position 1: (low rate) 75%

Now that the servo installation into the helicopter is finished the following pages should be reviewed. As

various types of radios can be used to setup the helicopter, some of the following information may not apply.

Final Adjustments - Radio Setup

Pitch Curve Adjustment

The following chart shows the values for the collective

pitch measured in degrees which are made on the heli-

copter using a pitch gauge. The Travel Adjustment

function (if available makes these settings easy).

For the beginner it is recommended to set the low stick

position to 0 degrees to avoid damaging the helicopter

while reducing the power during the first few flights.

These settings will need slight adjustment to keep the

helicopter at a consistent height at mid stick.

Flight Setup Method Low Pitch Hovering High Pitch

Mode (low stick) (mid stick) (high stick)

N Beginner 0 5 9

N Hovering -2 5.5 9

1 Stunt & Aerobatics -10 5.5 10

2 3D** -10 0 10

H Autorotation -10 5 12

Pitch Curve Values (by degrees)

( N - Normal flight mode, 1 - Stunt mode one, 2 - Stunt mode two,

H - Throttle hold-autorotation )

Note** In order to avoid binding at high pitch angles the flybar control

arms need to be reset at an angle of 10-15 degrees down from parallel.

Servo Direction (Servo Reversing)

Check that all servos move in the correct

directions, see the diagrams on pg 31-34.

STEP 5 Flybar Control Arm Assembly

From parts bag 1: Using an available

M3x12 Button Head Screw, insert ap-

proximately half the length of the screw to

form threads into the smaller, tapered

ends of the control arms and the control

arm stand-offs. Assemble Pushrod A

(47mm center to center) and press one ball

link end onto each double studded steel

ball, making sure that pressure is applied

from the side of the ball link with the

Century name. All ball links are designed

to be installed in one direction only. While

holding one flybar control arm, start

threading the double studded steel ball.

When it becomes difficult to turn with

fingers, start the control arm stand-off and

use as a driver until tight. Complete the

second flybar control arm.

Slide and center the Flybar through the seesaw arm assembly. Carefully look at Flybar Control Arm and notice

that when installed correctly, the securing set screw is on top. Insert one 4x6x0.5 washer against each

bearing then the flybar control arm. Insert one M3x12 Button Head Socket Screw into each Flybar

Control Arm, securing the assembly together. Loosely tighten the M4x5 Set Screws into the round alumi-

num inserts. Using a ruler, check the distance between the end of the flybar and the control arm and

adjust until the lengths are the same. Slide the Flybar Weight (Tip: the flat end of the weight touches the

paddle) and thread on the Flybar Paddle until all the threads are covered onto the flybar and align the

paddles parallel. Again using the ruler, rotate one paddle or the other to get equal distances, remember

leading edge of the paddles turn clockwise. Remove one set screw at a time, apply threadlock (Tip 1) and

tighten in place. Using two M3x3 Set Screws secure the weights using threadlock.

STEP 6 Flybar & Flybar Paddle Assembly

Flybar Control Arm x 2

Double Studded Steel Ball x 2

Control Arm Stand-off x 2

[HI3176B] - 30

[HI3176C] - 50

Double

Studded Steel

Ball x 2

Control Arm

Stand-off x 2

Flybar Control

Arm x 2

Repeat 2

Times.

Pushrod (A x 2)

25mm Rod

See page 30 for

full size drawing.

Ball Link

[HI3145]

Set Screw

M4x5

Align each paddle 'A' to be parallel with the flybar

control arms 'B'. This is made very simple with

the optional pitch and paddle gauge CN2026

For balancing of

rotor head see Final

Adjustments

A=B=A

M3x12

Button Head

Screw x 2

Flybar Paddles & Weights

[HI6179] - 20g (Gray)

Leading Edge

Flybar [HW3173] - 30

& [HW3173A] - 50

* packed with tailboom

M4x6x0.5

Washer x 2

M4x5 Set

Screw x 2

M4x30CS

Machine

Screws x 2

M4 Locknuts x 2

When attaching the main blades, the direction of

rotation is clockwise, when looking on top of the

helicopter.

Bolt the blades together and support by the ends of the

bolt off a flat surface. If one blade tips to one side add

small pieces of tracking tape until both blades hang an

equal distance from the table (Distance A = B). Attach

the Main Blades to the helicopter using two 4x30mm

Socket Head Cap Screws and M4 Locknuts.

Gyro

Having completed all the assembly for the helicopter, all that remains

is mounting the radio receiver, receiver battery and the gyro.

Radio Components & Balancing

Balance is the most important part in maintaining a

safe and reliable helicopter. First check the blades for

balance, this can be done on a balancer but can be

done directly on the helicopter by tipping the helicop-

ter on its side at the edge of a table and attaching the

blades. Temporarily remove the bolt to secure the

autorotation bearing so the head spins free ( remember

to replace this bolt!! ). If one blade stops at the same

spot add some tape to the lighter blade to balance the

rotorhead. The same procedure can be used to balance

the flybar without the main blades attached.

Balancing the Rotor Head

Receiver, Battery Pack

Using the foam rubber, wrap the battery pack, receiver and gyro controller separately, allowing wires to be

collected and tied together. Using two elastics looped through the front of the top servo tray, secure the compo-

nents to the two hooks on the lower servo tray. ** The actual arranged components will be different than the

picture illustrates.

Optional Equipment

PG2000 II Piezo Gyro

#CN2018

Mount the gyro on the radio tray, some rearrangement from the picture is required to

mount everything. If using the PG2000 II, the gyro can be mounted between the collective

& throttle servos and the right servo frame side. It is extremely important that the gyro is attached using only

the supplied two sided tape onto a clean flat surface. Keep all wires and components away from the gyro

housing. Do not use straps or elastics to secure the gyro.

Install the gyro using double sided foam tape ( supplied with gyro ) put a full strip along the bottom of

the gyro unit and press onto the surface. For a good bond make sure both surfaces are clean and dry.

Distance A Distance B

Flat Table Surface

Balancing the Rotor Blades

Starting with the inside race, apply

threadlock and attach two short balls

(Tip 1) directly across from each

other, similarly attach two medium

balls to the remaining holes. Attach

three short balls (Tip 2) to the outside

race, each 120 degrees apart. The

extra location is used for the anti-

rotation bracket assembled later.

Step 8 Swashplate Assembly

Before starting, carefully apply two or three drops of CA to the seam between the top and bottom oilite bushings and

the plastic washout hub. Do not get any adhesive on the inside surfaces that will slide against the main shaft. Let dry

completely.

Attach two Medium Balls (Tip 2) to the Washout Mixing Arms ( Note, attach from the flat side of the

arm). R30 using one slide tube inserted from the flat side and secured using one 3x16mm Button Head Screw

and one 3x7mm Flat Washer per arm. R50 Press one 3x7mm Ball Bearing into one side followed by one

3x5mm spacer and one more bearing from the opposite side. Slide one M3x16 Button Head Screw through the

bearings in the arm and slide one 3x5x0.5 washer between the bearing before tightening into the washout hub.

Note, the screw is attached on the left when installed later on the main shaft. Press the radius link on to the

inner short balls on the Swashplate.

STEP 7 Washout Assembly

Radius Link &

M2x12 Pin

[HI3152A]

M3x16 Button

Head Screw

3x7 Ball

Bearing x 2

[CNBB0730]

Medium

Ball x 2

[CNLR1015]

Washout Hub

[HI3152C]

3x5x0.5

Micro Washer

[CNLR1003]

Washout Arm x 2

[HI3152C]

Oilite

Bushing

M3x7 Flat

Washer x 2

Oilite

Bearing

Slide Tube

x 2

R-50 R-30

M3x5x3

Spacer

Washout

Assembly

[HI3152C]

Swashplate

Assembly

[HI6146]

Short Silver

Ball x 5

[CNLR1014]

Medium Silver

Ball x 2

[CNLR1015] Short

Silver Ball

Install Anti

Rotation

Pin Later

The Canopy has a line molded into the plastic to follow when trimming the windshield part out, be

careful, trim the innermost line leaving the 6mm band for attaching the windshield. Using a sharp hobby knife

carefully scribe a line several times into the plastic until you cut through the material. Similarly trim the clear

windshield along the provided line, to make it easier to see the line, use a non-permanent marker and trace the

line, any extra ink can be removed with rubbing alcohol. Test fit the canopy together by taping it to the canopy,

some additional trimming maybe necessary to get a good fit. From Bag 5, the inside canopy mount can be

installed ( note the direction of the mount ) with two 3x6mm Self Tapping Screws,( note: the location for

the mount has to be moved 8mm forward of the marked location on the bottom of the canopy ). The clear

windshield can be attached using six 2x6mm Self Tapping Screws in Bag 4, drill six 1mm holes at the locations

shown.

The two holes for the rear canopy mount have to be close the rear and

bottom edge as shown and attach the two rubber mount on canopy.

HI3130B

HI3133A

M3x8 Self Tapping Screw x 2

Inside Canopy

Mount [HI3129]

M2x6 Self

Tapping

Screws x 6

To inprove the adhesion of the decals to the body, peel the decal off the backing and apply one coat

of spray adhesive (spray glue) to the sticky side, commonly found in your hobbyshop. For those who

would prefer to paint the canopy.

Step 46 Canopy & Decals

Raven 30/50 decal [HI3131J]

Step 47 Canopy Mounts

Rubber Mount

Right Horizontal Fins

Right Side Vertical Fin

Right Side Canopy

Left Side Canopy

Left Horizontal Fins

Left Side Canopy

Left Horizontal Fins

Leftt Side Vertical Fin

From parts bag 2: The

Start Shaft Guide Blocks

are pre-assembled. Slide

the Starter Shaft through

one of the block assem-

blies with the M5x11 Ball

Bearing facing up then

slide the M5 Flat Washer,

spring and finally the

M5x10 Collar.

M5x10

Collar

M2x5 Self

Tapping Screw

Spring

M2x5 Flat

Washer

5x11 Ball

Bearing x 2

[CNBB1150]

Start Shaft Guide

Blocks x 2

[HI3007] Starter Shaft

Set

[HW3005A]

Step 9

Starting Shaft Bearing Blocks

Step 10 Starting Shaft & Hex Coupler

From parts in bag 2: After sliding the top bear-

ing block in place, attach the hex starter adapter

CN0402 to the starting shaft using threadlock on

both 4x4mm set screws. Align one set screw to fit

into the machined indentation in the hardened

start shaft. For added strength apply a locktight

to the shaft before the hex coupler is attached.

Apply some lubricant on the shaft after assembly

to ensure smooth vertical movement inside the

inner races of the bearings when engaging and

disengaging the start system. Position the M5

collar so the end of the start shaft clears the fan,

verify after installing the lower frames.

Hex Start

Adapter

[CN0402]

M4x4 Set

Screw x 2

(med hex key)

Optional:

Aluminum

Start Cone

#CN2209

3x4mm Set

Screw

(small hex key)

When removing the hex start extension after

the engine has started, it is recommended that

you use a two step procedure.

Step #1: Lift the hex extension upwards just

enough to disengage the start shaft while

keeping the extension inserted in the hex

coupler (CN0402).

Step #2: After the coupler has stopped turning,

then remove the extension completely.

Engine Start Procedure with Hex Coupler

Starter Shaft

One way Hex Starter Extension

(Optional Part #CN0427)

The Main Rotor Blades included in Raven 50 the kit are pre-finished and balanced carbon rotor blades. Care

must be taken in handling composite blades to keep them in excellent condition. Do not compress any portion

of the blade from the trailing edge to the center spar as it is hollow. In the event of a crash-landing discard rotor

blades, scuffs or marks on the blade tips maybe the only visible damage however there is no method for inspect-

ing the internal structure of the rotor blades for stress cracks which can cause total blade failure at an unpredict-

able time. Also, do not store rotor blades indoors in direct sunlight or near heat sources for any period of time.

Simply wipe blades clean after flying.

Blades rotate clockwise, so observe the leading edge. To install the blades, slide the root into the rotor grip

and insert one 4x30mm Socket Cap Screw through the top grip and secure using one 4mm Locknut. Repeat for

opposite rotor blade. Blade bolt tension will affect how the blades perform. To set proper tension, start from

loose blades (bolt is loose enough for the blade to pivot freely from the grip) and tighten the bolts a little at a

time until the blades will hold straight as the helicopter is tipped on its side. Slightly tighter is good. Too tight

and a vibration will occur, too loose and a tail boom strike can happen. Tail blades can be set the same way.

Trailing Edge

of Blade

Leading Edge

of Blade

Raven 30

CN2400 Hurricane Carbon 3D Symmetrical 550mm

CN2414 Hurricane Carbon Sport Semi-Symm 550mm

CN265501 Rotortech Carbon 3D Competition Symmetrical 550mm

CN265522 Rotortech Carbon 3D Sport Symmetrical 550mm

CN260853 Rotortech Carbon Tail Blades Symmetrical 85mm

Raven 50

CN2412 Hurricane Carbon 3D Symmetrical 600mm

CN2413 Hurricane Carbon Sport Semi-Symm 600mm

CN266001 Rotortech Carbon 3D Competition Symmetrical 600mm

CN266022 RotorTech Carbon 3D Sport Symmetrical 600mm

CN260853 Rotortech Carbon Tail Blades Symmetrical 85mm

The Raven 50 contains symmetrical rotor blades for sport and aerobatic flying. For your convienence

you can also use semi-symmetrical for smooth aerobatics and scale flying.

Step 45B Care and installation of Hurricane Carbon Blades - Raven 50

R-50

Step 45C Replacement High Performance Rotorblades Main & Tail

Step 11B Torque Drive Pinion Gear

From parts bag 2: Using threadlock, insert one M3x4

Set Screw (Tip 1) into the gear, note where the

flat spot is on the shaft and

slide the gear on and

tighten (make sure

the set screw is

positioned over the

flat spot) the set

screw. Slide two Ball

Bearings onto the shaft

and install into one half

of the upper frames.

Next add the spacer,

apply threadlock to the

M4x4 set screw and

insert into the torque

drive coupler. Slide the

drive coupler over the

long flat spot until the there is no end play in the shaft

and tighten the set screw in place.

From parts bag 2: Assemble the

engine drive gear assembly, start by

pressing the guide pin into the hole in

the end of the Drive Shaft. Insert the

shaft through the Counter Gear (

make sure the pin is fully seated

in the recessed side of the gear )

then slide the two M5x13 Ball Bear-

ings. R30 slide two M5x7x2 spacers

onto the shaft and slide the Alloy

Drive Gear onto the shaft aligning the

flat spot on the shaft. Insert one M3x4

set screw (Tip1) into the Alloy Drive Gear

and tighten in place.

Test fit the gear assembly into one half of the upper side

frames. While holding the pinion gear, try to slide the

counter gear up and down on the shaft. The gear should not slide up

the shaft, if it does, readjust the top pinion to remove the slop and re-

tighten the set screw using threadlock. It is important that there is no

free play but the bearings are turning freely when assembled. Apply a

small amount of red locktight to the top of the counter shaft and insert

into the pinion gear.(not the set screw).

Step 12 Counter Gear Assembly

5x13 Ball Bear-

ings x 2

[CNBB1350]

Tail Transmission

Output Shaft

[HW3059A]

Tail Rotor

Output Gear

[HW3057]

M3x4 Set Screw

(small hex key)

Output Shaft

Spacer

[HW3059A]

Torque Drive

Coupler

[HI3154]

M4x4 Set Screw

(med hex key)

Alloy Drive Gear 13T

(R30) [HW3045]

M5x7x2 Spacer x 2

(SE30)

Counter Gear

55T (SE30)

[HI3040]

5x13 Ball

Bearings x 2

[CNBB1350]

M2x12 Pin

[HI3040]

Drive Shaft

[HW3042]

M3x4 Set Screw (30)

From Bag 4: Attach one steel ball and one 2mm nut, to both the Throttle servo horn and the Throttle

Extension from Step 18 using threadlock. Position the ball at 10mm from the center of the servo and in

the outermost hole on the metal throttle arm. With the radio on, and the throttle stick centered and the

trim in the center, press the servo horn onto the servo so the ball is at 90 degrees to the servo ( the hover-

ing position ). Move the throttle stick to the low/idle position and press the Throttle Pushrod (B) onto the

steel balls. Check that in the low position the carburetor has about a 1mm wide opening for idling and

finally as the trim is moved fully down the carburetor closes completely to shut the engine off. Also check

that in the high position the carburetor is fully open. The throttle extension nut may have to be loosened

and the lever repositioned to operate as recommended.

Shut Down

- Trim full down

Full Power

Open 100%

Hover-Carb open

50%

0% Idle

- Trim at Middle

Hover

50%

100% Full

Power

Idle-Carb open

aprox. 1mm

Carb closed

Throttle

Servo

Pushrod B

Step 44 Throttle Linkage

Pushrod B will vary in

length slightly as the

position of the carburetor is

different for each engine

manufacturer. Following the

above instructions will allow

you to get the carburetor

setup correctly.

Step 45A Aerotech Main Blade Assembly - Raven 30

The Main Rotor Blades in the Raven 30 kit are pre-built and balanced, the only work required is to glue the

blade grip root ends to the blades ( Please note that this step is necessary to insure the blades will not sepa-

rate from the helicopter during flight!!). Temporarily install the root ends ( see note ) onto the blades by

cutting the covering over the holes and using a pencil, mark the outline of the plastic parts on the covering.

Remove the root ends and mark a second line about 3mm inside the first and trim away this inside portion of the

covering with a sharp hobby knife. Using some sandpaper roughen the plastic root ends and glue them in place

with Slow CA or slow Epoxy glue. Install the blades onto the rotorhead to dry. This will ensure the thickness is

correct when finished.

Note: The plastic root ends have a top and bottom which are different when viewed from the

large end. Test fit the parts to be sure that the total thickness of the blades is 12mm. The 3mm

brass tube and four M4x20 flat washers are not needed on the helicopter.

R-30

Sand both the

plastic root ends

Cut away

this portion

of the

covering

in the shape

of the blade

root.

HW3190

(Main blade set) Trailing Edge

of Blade

Leading Edge

of Blade

Use Slow CA

glue or Slow

Epoxy

R-30

From parts bag 2: Assemble the Constan Tail Drive Gear Assembly (R50), start by pressing the shaft

through the Counter Gear then selide two M5x7x2 spacers, then slide the two M5x13 Ball Bearings.

Again slide two M5x7x2 spacers onto the shaft and slide the Alloy Drive Gear onto the shaft aligning the

flat spot on the shaft. Insert one M4x4 set screw (Tip1) into the Alloy Drive Gear and tighten in place.

Alloy Drive Gear 14T

(SE50) [CN2224]

M5x7x2 Spacer x 2

5x13 Ball

Bearings x 2

[CNBB1350]

Drive Shaft

[CN2263D]

Counter Gear 55T

[CN2263C]

Counter Gear 53T

(Option 3D Hi-Spd)

[CN2263F]

M4x4 Set Screw

(50)

Expert tip, once all components

are in their final position, using

a needle apply one drop of blue

threadlock carefully at the joint

between each bearing and the

shaft. Warning, threadlock

will damage a bearing.

M5x7x2 Spacer x 2

Constan Tail Drive

Assembly

CN2263A

The Main Gear is “NOT” pre-assembled Insert the aluminum center hub into the main gear then

install the “C” spring ring onto end of hub. The Main Shaft has a step in the end of the shaft that is

inserted through the auto-rotation assembly. Insert the bottom end through the constan tail drive auto

rotation gear assembly aligning the holes and secure the Main Shaft using one 3x16mm Socket Cap

Screw and one 3mm Locknut.

Step 13 Main Gear Assembly (R50)

C typr ring

CN2263H

Center

Hub

When attaching all pushrods, make sure same length

pushrods are actually the same length from the

beginning otherwise it will be difficult later to figure

out where the linkage problems are coming from.

Attach the following:

Step 42 Rotor Head Linkage

2 Flybar to Washout pushrods (A),

2 Bell Mixer to Seesaw pushrods (I),

2 Bell Mixer to Inner Swashplate pushrods (C),

The Rudder linkage changes the pitch of the tail rotor blades to increase or decrease the torque compensation to

rotate the nose of the helicopter about the main shaft.

Use a servo horn in the shape of a cross and trim the 3 of the 4 arms off. From Bag 4: Install one steel

ball and one 2mm nut at a distance of 12-14mm from the center of the servo remember to use threadlock.

The Rudder Pushrod (G) will at this point be installed with one grey ball link at the tail gearbox and one

black ball link at the servo end. Having the radio on and the rudder trim centered press on the servo horn

onto the servo set at 90 degrees to the servo and adjust the length of the pushrod to align the rudder

bellcrank to 70 degrees as shown in the diagram.

Step 43 Rudder Linkage

As the rudder stick is moved to the

right, the rudder pushrod will move

forward increasing the thrust in the

tail blades rotating the nose to the

right.

Push rod (A)

Push rods (I)

pushrods (C)

Push rods (I)

Push rod (A)pushrods (C)

Blade grips shown ‘0”

degree at this time

Servo set at

90 degrees

rudder bellcrank to 70 degrees as

shown

Tail Pitch Control Rod & Connector

R30 is 763mm c/c, R50 is 823mm c/c

Grey Ball Link Black Ball Link

R-50

The Main Gear is pre-assembled with the Auto-Rotation Bearing installed. From parts bag 2: The

Main Shaft has a step in the end of the shaft that is inserted through the auto-rotation assembly. Insert

the bottom end through the auto rotation gear assembly aligning the holes and secure the Main Shaft

using one 3x16mm Socket Cap Screw and one 3mm Locknut.

Main Gear

[HI3056]

Main Shaft

[HW3053A]

M3x16 Socket

Cap Screw

M3 Locknut

Auto-

Rotation

Bearing

[HW3040]

Pre-

Assembled

Step 13 Main Gear Assembly R30

Step 14 Slipper Assembly

- R30 Optional only

(Only if do not using CN2263A

Constan Tail Drive Assembly)

The slipper drive unit will

continue to turn the tail rotor

blades in the event of an

auto-rotation. Before install-

ing the main shaft the Cir-

Clip must be removed from

the top of the main gear

assembly, use Cir-Clip pliers

that have special tips to

spread the clip (very useful

when changing the main

gear). Slide the thin washer

followed by the thick washer

and grease the o-ring and set

in place. Install two set

screws (Tip 1) and slide

against the o-ring, apply

enough pressure that when

the main shaft is turned the

main gear rotates. Remove

and apply threadlock to one

set screw at a time.

Cir-Clip

Ring

(remove on

50)

Optional Slipper

Unit [CN2231A]

O-Ring

[CN2231B]

M4x4 Set

Screw x 2

(med hex key)

M12x18x0.28

M12x18x0.5

Washer

[CN2231C]

At some time in the future you will need to change the main gear. The main gear assembly can

be easily taken out of the mechanics by removing only the main shaft. Tilt the gear assembly

from the front to clear the alloy drive gear and slide the assembly out through side of the

upper side frames. Also note, when removing the auto-rotation bearing, it MUST be re-in-

stalled into the new gear in the same direction, otherwise when power is applied, the gear will

not drive the main shaft, only the tail gears will turn.

There are three servos are mounted on the front and rear servo brackets. They work together to tilt the

swashplate producing the collective pitch, roll cyclic pitch (aileron control) and the fore-aft cyclic pitch (eleva-

tor control). The servo horns provided in the radio will not be long enough to achieve the full collective

range, the control ball is required to be mounted at a distance of 25-26mm from the center of the servo. It

is recommended to use Century’s optional metal servo arms as follows:

(CN2189 - Futaba, CN2185 - JR/Airt, CN2181 - Hitec) for all standard plastic output shaft servos.

(CN2279 F-Futaba, J-JR, H-Hitec ) for all metal output shaft servos.

Attach one steel ball with one 2mm nut to the under-side of the rear servo horn and to the top-side of

the two horns for the front servos using threadlock. With the radio turned on and the trims centered,

attach the rear servo horn parallel to the body of the servo and the CCPM Rear (E) Pushrod. Similarly,

attach the front servo horns mounted 90 degrees to the servo with the CCPM Front (D) Pushrods.

Move the collective stick to its maximum position and watch for any roll (aileron) or pitch (elevator) inputs. If

an input is found, the problem will be one of the following in the table. The table describes the symptom and

the steps to correct them.

Step 41 CCPM Swashplate Linkage

metal control ball distance move ball location to match other servos, or carefully use ATV

angle of horn & servo not 900use subtrims to set exactly at 90 degrees

angle of horn & linkage not 900use subtrims to set exacly at 90 degrees, noticeable at extremes

swashplate not level adjust pushrod length to level

Symptom Corrective Solution

Front CCPM

Servo

Pushrod E

Pushrod D

Rear CCPM Servo

Steel Ball on top-

side of servo

horn

Steel Ball on bottom

- side of servo horn

Tail Transmission

Output Gear

Assembly from

Step 11 -

Counter Gear

Assembly from

Step 12

Upper Side Frame

[HI3107]

Main Gear

Assembly

from Step 13

M3x12 Self Tapping

Screws x 4

M4x4 Set

Screw (med

hex key) x 2

Mast

Stopper

[HW3054A]

8x19 Ball

Bearing

[CNBB1980]

Start Shaft

Assembly

from Step 10

Note 1: Be careful when tightening the eight 3x12mm self tapping screws into the start shaft block

assemblies as excessive force will strip out the plastic holes.

10x19 Ball

Bearing

[CNBB1019]

M14x19

Washer

CCPM Right Side Servo

Mount [HW3115B]

From parts bag 2: Install two 4x4mm Set Screws (do not apply locktight at this time) in the Mast Stop-

per (note the raised inner diameter must face the ball bearing) and slide the mast stopper on the main shaft

followed by one M10x19 Ball Bearing and one M14x19 Spacer (the spacer must be installed on top of tbe

bearing). Slide one M8x19 Ball Bearing onto the bottom of the main shaft.

Align the right side servo mount over the holes for the starter shaft assembly and insert four M3x12

Self Tapping Screws1 to secure in place. (Tip3- observe the correct direction of the block assemblies ).

Position the main gear/main shaft assembly, (note the orientation of the mast stopper, the raised inner

diameter should be facing upward, towards the inner race of the top ball bearing) the counter gear

assembly and the tail transmission output shaft assembly in the designated locations (see diagram below)

on the upper right side frame ( Make sure the bearings are fully seated in the recesses.)

At this time prepare the 3 CCPM, rudder and throttle servos by installing the rubber grommets

provided with the radio system. Wait to install the brass eyelets until the orientation to mount the servo is

known. The eyelets have a flange that should face the surface that the servo flange is being mounted

against.

Step 15 Upper Side Frames

Servo Setup & Adjustments

In the steps 41 through 42 over the next few pages the pushrod hardware will be mounted to the servos horns

and ultimately the pushrods themselves. Each step is well described but lets take a few moments to cover a few

basic points on setting up individual servos. By this time the radio will have been charged overnight. Recheck

that all the servo trims are centered.

The goal in the end after all the servos are mounted is to have the swashplate sit level or at 90 degrees to the

main shaft and have the swashplate move equally fore, aft and side to side. The swashplate will also travel up

and down as three servos work together. This will result if the items in Step 40 have been followed and the

ATV function for the three ccpm servos has been set very, very accurately to eliminate pitch change when

moving the aileron or elevator sticks. This will become obvious in the next steps.

After installing the three cyclic pushrods,

the swashplate should sit level.

CCPM Servo Guidelines

90 degrees to

the main

shaft A

A= B

Rear CCPM servo arm 90

degrees to the main shaft

Left & Right

Front CCPM

servo arm 90

degrees to the

main shaft

Front swashplate anti-

rotation screw in center

of the mount

Long hex spacers

[HW3127A] x 2

M3x35 Socket

Cap Screws x 4

M3 Locknut x 4

Insert two long Hex Spacers at the specified locations in the diagram, note that the front hex spacer is

installed into the forward-most hole. Attach the left side CCPM Servo Mount using four M3x12 Self Tap-

ping Screws (Tip3) into the starting shaft blocks. Install the upper left side frame, taking care that the

bearings are aligned with the mating recesses and secure the frames with four M3x35 Socket Cap Screws

(Tip1) through the main shaft bearing block positions and four M3 locknuts. While pushing DOWN on the

main shaft (make sure the main gear rotates), push the mast stopper against the upper ball bearing, apply

threadlock to the set screws and tighten in place. Upper Side

Frames L& R

[HI3107]

M4x4 Set

Screw x 2

Step 16 Upper Frame Assembly & Front CCPM Servo Mounts

CCPM Servo

Mount (Right)

[HW3115B]

Servo Mount

Brace

[HW3115B]

From parts bag 2: Attach the Servo Mount

Brace using four M3x10 Socket Cap Screws

and M3 Locknuts through the holes on the

CCPM Servo Mounts. Look at the servo

mount brace and notice the two tabs when

properly installed face forward. Attach the

anti-rotation bracket to the front of the

brace with one M3x10 Socket Cap Screw

and a M3 Locknut (hold the locknut with

pliers and tighten the bolt with the provided

hex key).

Anti-Rotation

bracket

[HW3115B]

M3x10 Socket

Cap Screws x 4

& M3 Locknuts

Step 16A CCPM Servo Mounts &

Anti-Rotation Bracket

M3x12 Self Tapping

Screws x 4

Make up all the control pushrods according to the specified lengths shown in the table. Please note that

the dimensions listed are from center to center of the ball ends (this has changed from earlier manuals).

Depending on the servo brand, the servo horn offers different patterns for fine tuning.

After attaching the pushrods to the helicopter, the washout arms will be level at 00 (horizontal) collective

for 3D flying. Beginners should follow the setup steps and pitch curves for Hovering in the final adjust-

ments. Note: It is very important that before you install the pushrod linkages that you first charge your

radio then remove all the servo horns from the servos and center all the mechanical or electronic trims on

the radio.

Step 40 Pushrod Setup and Adjustments

Note: All dimensions are in millimeters and are measured

from the centers of the control balls or ball ends.

Ball Link Set

[HI3145]

Pushrod Set

[HW3192A]

Due to the different types of radio and

servos that are chosen to install into the

helicopter, match each pushrod to the

lengths in the table for optimum setup.

(Optional Part)

CN2255 Control Rod Setup Gauge -

Easily duplicates pushrods by attaching

a master pushrod and match new

pushrods as they are asembled. Gauge

has millimeter scale for accurate

lengths center to center.

Tail Pitch Control Rod

& Connector

[HW3064E] - R30

[HW3064F] - R50

Location ID Rod Sport 3D

Washout to flybar (2) A25 4447

Throttle servo 30 B75 9696

Throttle servo 50 B75 9292

Bell mixer to SWP (2) C80 9799

Front CCPM servo (2) D35 5555

Rear CCPM servo E25 4848

Bell mixer to seesaw (2) I15 2826

Tail rotor pushrod 30 G 763 763

Tail rotor pushrod 50 G 823 823

Position the rear servo mount bracket on the left side of the

mechanics just behind the main shaft, the front of the mount

has a right angle knotch beside the hole. Insert one 3x10mm

Socket Cap Screw through the servo mount and into the upper

side frames with one 3mm Locknut to secure in place. Insert

one 3x25mm Socket Cap Screw and match the 3mm Locknut

into the molded hole for the locknut in the upper frames. At

this time install the remaining 3x25mm Socket Cap Screw and

3mm Locknut into the rear-most hole in the upper frames,

leave these loose until the tail boom assembly is ready to

be installed. Install the rear CCPM servo from the right side

so that the output shaft is facing the front of the mechanics

and and the servo flange is on the right side of the bracket.

Insert the servo screws through the grommets, the servo

mount and into the servo mount tabs, secured from the bottom

of the servo.

Step 17 Rear CCPM Servo Mount and Rudder Servo Mount

Install both CCPM front servos at this time, with the output shaft of

the servos positioned upwards and the servo flange inserted from

behind the servo mount. Using the screws provided, insert the

screws from the servo top through the grommets (insert the

eyelets between the grommet and the mount bracket) and

attach the servo mount tabs from the bottom of the servo.

Similarily position the rudder servo mount on the right side of the upper frames, noting that the right

angle knotch is now is facing the rear of the helicopter. Insert two 3x25mm Socket Cap Screws through

the two lower holes in the upper frame assembly, through the rudder servo mount and secure with two

3mm Locknuts. Again leave these loose for now. Insert the rudder servo similarly with the output shaft

facing the rear but the servo flange should be on the left side of the bracket.

M3x10mm and

M3 Lock Nut

M3x25 Socket

Cap Screws x 3

& M3 Locknut

Output shaft rearward

Output shaft forward

Servo

mount tabs

[HI3205]

Rear Servo

Mount [HW3115B]

Rear Servo

Mount

[HW3115B]

Threaded

Extension Rod

[HW3127A]

Canopy

Mount

[HW3127A]

From parts bag 2: Slide one Threaded Extension Rod through the

upper position of the tail output bearing recess and secure two round

Canopy Mounts ( Tip1 - one per side ) using threadlock. Examine the

servo mount brackets, the rear CCPM servo mount uses the holes that

are 31.5mm apart while the rudder servo mount uses the holes spaced

at 45mm.

The next section covers setting the pushrods and servos that will control the helicopter. It is important at this

time that you review the instructions provided with your radio that controls the ccpm mixing for the 3

cyclic servos. Reviewing the radio instructions will assist you in becoming familiar with the functions that

affect the individual servos and affect the interaction of the three servos working together to control the

swashplate.

Radio Setup Procedure

1. It is best to choose a new model memory (if available) and use the Reset feature to remove any previous

settings or mixes, remember this usually also returns the radio configuration to single servo.

2. Locate and activate the swashplate mixing for 1200ccpm (most manufacturers set single servo by default).

3. Return both the aileron and elevator subtrims to neutral along with any hover pitch knobs to neutral.

4. Adjust the servo reversing switch to make sure the servos are moving in the correct direction, together as the

collective stick is raised. If the servo reversing does not correct the movement of a servo, there is always a

travel adjustment function inside the swashplate mixing menu. Change the default setting to be opposite, for

example, if set to +60 then change to -60 and change any servos that are affected.

5. After each servo horn is mounted, it is critical that the horn be 90 degrees to the respective pushrod.

Step 39 CCPM Radio Review & Setup

Push Rod “I”

Push Rod “A”

Push Rod “I”

Push Rod “C” Push Rod “C”

Push Rod “D”

Push Rod “E”

Step 40 Pushrod Setup and Adjustments Relation Picture

Front CCPM

Servo

Rear CCPM

Servo

See next page

for Pushrod

Lengths

Step 18 Clutch, Fan & Engine Mounting

Clutch

Shoes

[HW3011]

M9x14 Flat

Washer

Engine ball

bearing

exposed.

Thrust Washer

or M9x14 FW

From parts bag 3, remove all parts

from the engine crankshaft until you

can see the front ball bearing, install

the 9x14mm Flat washer (or washer

provided by engine manufacturer),

insert the Ball Bearings into the

clutch bell assembly and place on the

crankshaft. Clean the threads (Tip 1)

on the crankshaft, engine nut and the

clutch, carefully apply threadlock on

the engine crankshaft threads nearest

the bearing (be careful not to get

threadlock into the ball bearings) and

on the threads in the clutch. Thread

the clutch until the crankshaft can be

seen and insert the fan keying it to the

clutch. Wrap a cloth over the fan

(provides grip to the fan without

breaking the fins) and tighten until

the clutch stops, torque an additional

1/16 of a turn. Using a Piston Lock

[CN2155 Optional Parts] makes this

easier. Secure the fan by placing one

6.5x13mm Washer and apply a liberal

amount of threadlock to secure the

nut that came with the engine from

the inside of the fan assembly. Again

only torque the nut 1/16th more.

Cooling Fan

[HI3009]

M5x13 Flat

Washer

Engine

Nut

(Optional Parts)

CN2153 Throttle Extension for

OS32-37 & TT39

CN2154 for OS50SX-H

M3x16CS

Machine Screw x 4

Engine

Assembly

with Fan

Secure the engine assembly on to the engine mount

(46/50 make sure the mount is installed with the holes

closest to the bottom of the engine) using four

3x16mm Socket Cap Screws using threadlock. From

bag 4, install the Throttle Extension by removing the

arm supplied on the engine. The arm has to be

repositioned to get equal throw, both open and closed

from 50%.

Engine Mount

[HW3017] - All 30

Throttle

Extension

[HW3204]

Throttle arm on Carburator

During final assembly wipe

all traces of oil or grease from

the inside surface of the

clutch lining. Any grease

here can cause a meltdown.

M12 x 18

Ball

Bearing x 2

[CNBB1812]

Aluminum

Clutch Bell

[HI3010A]

Pre-Assembled in kit.

Pinion Gear

26T

[HI3010B]

Step 19 Engine Mount & Throttle Lever

50%

Full Open Full Closed

Engine

Mount [HW3018]

OS 50

Note: Upright (Top) direction of mount.

Position two of the pushrod guides infront of the

horizontal fin and one behind. Attach the Horizontal

Fin on the tailboom using two 3x12mm Self Tapping

Screws through the fin, the fin mount and into the

Tailboom Clamp. Space the fin along the tailboom

at the position where the Tail Boom supports

intersect the tailboom. Note: the mount for the

strut is angled, test fit the strut to position the

clamp in the correct direction. Secure each strut

one at a time using one 3x8mm Self Tapping

Screw through the strut hole and into the horizon-

tal fin clamp. Attach the lower end to the outside

of the lower frame assembly using one 3x16mm

Socket Cap Screw inserted through the hole in the

strut, then add one 3mm plastic spacer and finally

through the hole in the lower side frames, secure

with a 3mm Locknut from the inside.

Horizontal Fin Set

[HI3067A]

M3X12 Self

Tapping Screw x 2

Tail Boom

Clamp

[HI3067A]

M3x16 Socket

Cap Screw

M3x8 Self

Tapping

Screw

Tail Boom

Support Struts

[HW3202B] - R30

[HW3202C] - R50

Step 38 Tail Fins & Support Struts

M3 Plastic Spacer

M3 Locknut

Ball links can be attached to both ends of the rudder pushrod and the pushrod guides can be adjusted in

position to get smooth actuation from the rudder servo to the tail rotor bellcrank. Once the pushrod moves

smoothly, apply a few drops of medium CA glue to bond the pushrod guides in place. It is extremely

important that the guides are bonded, as a loose pushrod guide will move, continually changing the center

or neutral position of the rudder channel. This will affect all other setup adjustmenst and make flying the

helicopter difficult to impossible.

Medium CA glue

Step 20 Fuel Tank Assembly

From parts bag 3, insert the two pieces of aluminum tubing through the large cap, rubber stopper and small

cap, bend the long aluminum tube upwards and attach the short piece of fuel line and clunk to the short

straight piece of tubing. Test fit the assembly into the Fuel Tank and make sure that the clunk reaches the

end but moves freely and the vent tube is near the top of the tank but does not touch. Finally tighten the long

self tapping screw to seal the tank. Install the included tie wrap around the outside of the rubber cap.

Vent Tube - bent

Note: The fuel tank opening is off-center and should

be installed upwards to align close to the carburetor.

Large

Cap

Small Cap

Rubber

Stopper

90mm Fuel line inside

tank & Clunk

Pickup tube -

straight

Fuel Tank [HI3138A]

M2.5 x 18 Self

Tapping Screw

Make sure the muffler bolts are

inserted into the engine.

Step 21 Lower Frame Assembly

M3x12 Socket

Engine Mount

Cap Screws x 4

M3x11 Flat

Washer x 4

M3x12 Socket

Cap Screws x 4

& M3x7

Washer x 4

Lower Side Frames

[HW3112C] x 2

Fuel Tank

[HI3138A]

Cooling Fan Shroud

[HI3020A]

Insert muffler bolts

before assembly.

Engine Assembly

from Step 20

Completed

Upper Frame

Assembly from

Step 17

Attach the right lower frame (R) to the upper frame assembly with two M3x12 Socket Cap Screws (Tip 1)

and M3 Washers using threadlock. Slide the cooling Fan Shroud over the engine head and position the

engine assembly into the upper frames while attaching the two M3x12 Socket Cap Screws and M3x11

Washers through the (R) side frame ( leave these loose for now) into the engine mount. Make sure the

muffler bolts are inserted into the engine. Slide the fuel tank assembly through the frame and attach

the left lower side frame (L) to the upper side frames using two M3x12 Socket Cap Screws and M3 Wash-

ers using threadlock. Attach the remaining two M3x12 Socket Cap Screws and two M3x11 Flat Washers

to the engine mount. Position the engine assembly and tighten the engine mount bolts when there is 1mm

of gap between the clutch bell and the counter gear, using threadlock.

Optional

CN3033 - 30SE

CN3033B - 50SE

Speed Torpedo

HV Muffler

From parts bag 2: Insert one 3x25mm

Socket Cap Screw into the lower position

of the tail output bearing recess and secure

with a locknut from the other side.

Attach the tail boom assembly to the main mechanics by

sliding the tailboom tube into the hole in the rear of the

upper frame. The screws previously installed to mount the rear and

rudder servos may need to be loosened.

Tail Boom

Assembly

Step 37 Tail boom Final Assembly

Vertical Tail Fin

[HI3067A]

M3 Locknut

x 2

M3x30 Socket

Cap Screw x 2

Grease to be used inside the tail gearbox should be a teflon or light lithium type of grease com-

monly found in a hobbyshop. Do not use grease or any type of lubricant on the remaining gears

on the helicopter because they are exposed and can actually attract dirt and debris that can lead

to a failure.

Step 36 Vertical Tail Fin Assembly

Install the Vertical Fin with two

3x30mm Socket Cap Screws and

M3 locknuts through the mounts

in the front end of the tail rotor

gearbox.

3x25mm

Socket Cap

Screw

Connect the short ‘z’

bent rudder pushrod

at this time.

Slowly press the tailboom in, once the end

of the torque tube drive shaft first touches the

drive coupler, slowly rotate the tail blades while

applying a small forward pressure. As soon as

the two are aligned continue pressing in the tailboom until

fully seated. Tighten all four Socket Cap Screws firmly to

secure the tailboom.

From parts bag 5, assemble the servo tray using four

3x12mm Self Tapping Screws (Tip 3) into the lower

holes of the battery tray. Next install the throttle

servo from the inside of the left vertical support

in the lower position. ( Note, use the rubber

grommets provided with the servos, you can

use the screws that came with your servos

or the screws provided in the kit ). Notice

that the output shaft of the servo is towards

the front. Insert the servo screws from

servo frame side through the slots and

secure using the servo mount tabs pro-

vided. Using two 3x10mm Socket Cap

Screws, attach the long hex spacer to the

front-most upper holes in the vertical sup-

ports using threadlock. Attach the switch mount

using four 3x6 Self Tapping Screws from the

inside of the right vertical support and the

canopy mount using two 3x30 Phillips

Self Tapping Screws through the top of the

battery tray, through the plastic spacer

and into the canopy

mount hook.

Step 22 Servo Frame Assembly

30mm Thread Hex Spacer &

18mm Hollow Round Spacer x 2

[HW3115C]

M3x30

Self

Tapping

Screws x 2

Throttle

Servo

Canopy Mount

Hook & Spacer

[HI3129]

Servo Mount Tab

x 2 [HI3205]

Switch Plate

[HW3115C]

M3x6 Self

Tapping

Screws x 4

Servo Frame Set

[HW3115C]

M3x12mm Self

Tapping Screws

Attach the servo frame assembly to the mechanics starting with one 3x30mm Socket

Cap Screw inserted through the upper rear hole in the servo tray. Next slide one 18mm

hollow spacer and insert through the lower hole in the front of the upper frames, stop just as the screw

is flush with the inside surface. Apply threadlock to the threads on both ends of the 30mm hex spacer

and place inside the upper frames. Tighten the screw into the hex spacer. Repeat for the other side.

Insert one M3x6 Phillips Washer Head Screw through the servo frame into the lower frame (lower

frame has a special fitted nut) using threadlock. Repeat for the other side. Secure the cooling fan

shroud with two M3x6 Self Tapping Screws.

Servo Frame Set

[HW3115C]

Step 23 Servo Frame Assembly to Mechanics

Grease to be used inside the tail gearbox should be a teflon or light lithium type of grease commonly found

in a hobbyshop. Do not use grease or any type of lubricant on the remaining gears on the helicopter

because they are exposed and can actually attract dirt and debrie that can lead to a failure.

M3x10 Socket

Cap Screw

M3x16 Socket Cap

Screw x 2

Locknut

Part 1. Position the output gear assembly into the right gear box half (insure the 2 bevel gears are

meshed properly and the ball bearings are fully seated in their recesses ) and liberally

grease the gears before closing the gearbox. Position the gear box halves over the holes in the end of

the tail boom and secure with one 3x10mm Socket Cap Screw and M3 locknut at the end of the gear-

box and two 3x12mm Socket Cap Screws with M3 locknuts at the center of the gearbox.

Part 2. While holding the tail bellcrank, thread in one short steel ball. Insert one ball bearing from one

side, then insert the spacer followed by the second ball bearing. Insert one 3x16mm Phillips Machine

Screw through the bellcrank assembly (from the bottom) and add one 3x5x0.5mm micro washer that

will fit between the bellcrank and flange on the gearbox. As the screw is tightened, make sure the

steel ball is engaged in the hole on the bellcrank and the bellcrank turns freely without binding.

Step 35 Tail Gearbox Assembly

Tail Rotor

Bellcrank

[HI3102B]

Apply Grease

Steel Ball

[CNLR1013]

M3x16 Socket Cap Screw

Machine Screw

[CNM3x16CS]

3x6x2.5F

Flanged B.B.

[CNBB0360F]

3x5x0.5T

Micro

Washer

Spacer

Tail Drive Shaft Set

Tail Input Gear Assembly

Head Block

M3x20 Socket

Cap Screw &

M3 Locknut

Washout &

Swashplate

Assembly from

Step 6

Step 24 Final Rotor Head Assembly

Following assembly, move the swashplate up and down to the endpoints. The swashplate and washout

unit should be very smooth throughout the movement range. If not, inspect the fit of the washout guide to

the pins in the rotor head, these pins can be bent slightly if binding. Lastly the fit of the ball links some-

times can cause binding. These few points are the most common which will cause servo strain leading to

premature wear and will appear as a jump in altitude when flying the helicopter.

Slide the washout assembly from Step 6 onto the main shaft. Slide the nylon sleeve over one 3x15mm

Socket Cap Screw and insert through the anti-rotation bracket into the remaining open hole in the

swashplate using threadlock. Slide the completed rotor head assembly from Step 5 onto the shaft and

align the hole in the head block with the hole in the top of the main shaft and insert one 3x20mm Socket

Cap Screw and 3mm locknut (from Bag 2) to secure the two. (Note: Make sure the pins in the rotor

head block are aligned and inserted into the holes in the washout unit.) Apply some oil spar-

ingly to the washout hub assembly to insure they slide smoothly.

Nylon sleeve

over one

3x15mm

Socket Cap

Screw

Pushrod “A” see

step 40

Completed Rotor Head Assembly from Step 5

Main Mechanic

Assembly from

Step 23

Packaged with the tailboom is the carbon torque tube drive shaft assembly. The is a complete assem-

bly ready to be installed into the helicopter. Using a light oil, apply a few drops to the ball bearing

inside the tailboom guide. This should be done every 20 hours of flight or 3 month intervals. Insert the

drive shaft assembly into the tailboom from the end with the 2 holes and position the assembly approxi-

mately centered in the tailboom (apply a little liquid hand soap to ease the insertion of the o-ring

guides ). Using one half of the tail gearbox assembly with the tail input shaft installed, continue

to insert the drive shaft assembly until there is a 1mm gap between

the end of the drive shaft and the bottom of the drive

coupler. This is simple with the gearbox open, make

sure the tailboom is properly keyed

into the tail gearbox. Slide

the three tail pushrod

guides onto the

tailboom engaging

tail pushrod. Thread

the pushrod connector

onto the long pushrod,

the short ‘z’ pushrod will

be attached in the

rudder servo linkage

setup page.

Tail Pitch Control Rod Set

[HW3064E] - R30

[HW3064F] - R50

Torque Tube Drive

ShaftAssembly

[HW3063AS] - R50

[HW3063BS] - R30

Tail Boom [HW3062] - R30

Tail Boom [HW3062A] - R50

Having taken time to properly fit the tail gearbox joint will make the front transmission

assembly very simple.

Step 34B Torque Tube Drive Shaft Assembly & Pushrod Guides

Tail Pitch Control Rod Set

Tail Pushrod Guides

[HI3106A] x 3

Step 34C Tail Rudder Pushrod Guides

Reminder, after radio set up is complete, glue the pushrod

guides using a single drop of Zap Ca. One drop will stop the

pushrod from binding and still be able to remove them later.

If not already done, slide

the three tail pushrod

guides onto the tailboom

engaging tail pushrod.

Attach the pushrod

connector and the short

“z” pushrod. Align the

guides as illustrated in the

picture until the pushrod

can be moved very

smoothly by hand. Once

satisfied bond in place

with a single drop of Zap

Ca. (one drop will allow

easy removal later).

Tail Boom

This manual suits for next models

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