Clarke CWL6B Installation and operation manual

O
OPERATING & MAINTENANCE
INSTRUCTIONS
0302
20” WOODLATHE
20” WOODLATHE
Model No. CWL6B
Part No. 6501650

O
Lathe Specifications ................................................................................................... 3
General Safety Instructions ........................................................................................ 4
Wood Lathe Safety Instructions ................................................................................. 5
Electrical Connections and Motor Specifications ................................................... 6
Unpacking And Checking Contents ........................................................................ 7
Spindle Speeds and Belt Tensioning ......................................................................... 8
Preparation for use (Spindle/Faceplate/Outboard Turning & Indexing) ............. 9
Using Woodworking Chisels and Basic Techniques .............................................. 12
Making Standard Cuts ............................................................................................. 17
Spindle Turnings ........................................................................................................ 20
Face Plate And Chuck Turnings .............................................................................. 22
Fancy Face Plate Turnings ....................................................................................... 23
Turning Plastics .......................................................................................................... 26
Sanding, Buffing And Polishing ............................................................................... 27
Maintenance ............................................................................................................. 28
Lubrication ................................................................................................................. 28
Optional Accessories ............................................................................................... 29
Spares And Servicing Contacts .............................................................................. 29
Parts List ......................................................................................................................30
Parts Diagram ............................................................................................................ 31
CONTENTS Page
231
PARTS DIAGRAM

O3
GUARANTEE
This CLARKE product is guaranteed against faulty manufacture for a period of 12 months from the
date of purchase. Please keep your receipt as it will be required as proof of purchase. This guarantee
is invalid if the product is found to have been abused or tampered with in any way, or not used for the
purpose for which it was intended.
Faulty goods should be returned to their place of purchase, no product can be returned to us without
prior permission. This guarantee does not effect your statutory rights.
Thank you for purchasing this CLARKE 20” Wood lathe, designed for DIY use only.
Before assembling this machine, please read this manual thoroughly and follow all instructions
carefully. In doing so you will ensure the safety of yourself and that of others around you, and you can
look forward to the wood lathe giving you long and satisfactory service.
WARNING:
THIS MACHINE MUST NOT BE MODIFIED, OR USED FOR ANY PURPOSE
OTHER THAN THAT FOR WHICH IT IS DESIGNED.
SPECIFICATIONS
Motor .............................................................................................. 230V 50Hz 1Ph
Power Rating ................................ 370W (1/2 HP)
Switch Type ................................... No Volt Release
Turning Capacity (Between Centres) ....................... 20 in (508mm)
(Over Bed) .................................... 9 1/2in Dia (242mm)
Spindle Speeds 1. .................................................... 850RPM
2. .................................................... 1250RPM
3. .................................................... 1750RPM
4. .................................................... 2510RPM
Headstock Thread ........................................................................ 3/4” x 16TPI (UNF)
Tailstock Spindle ............................................................................ Fixed Rotating Centre
Tailstock Spindle Advance ........................................................... 2” (50mm) max. via hand wheel
Overall Dimensions (LxWxH) ......................................................... 950x220x280mm
Weight ............................................................................................ 24kg
No. Description Part No.
1 Bearing Block SD6001
2 Face Plate SD6002
3 Tool Rest SD6003
4 Tool Rest Holder SD6004
5 Slide Block SD6005
6 Locking Block SD6006
7 Spindle Pulley SD6007
8 Motor Pulley SD6008
9 Hand Wheel SD6009
10 Head Stock Spindle SD6010
11 Driving Centre SD6011
12 Name Plate (Not Shown) SD6012
14 Tool Rest Shaft SD6014
15 Tailstock Spindle SD6015
16 Locknut SD6016
17 Locknut SD6017
18 Headstock Cover - 1 SD6018
19 Motor Cover SD6019
20 Pulley Cover SD6020
21 Headstock Cover - 2 SD6021
22 Headstock Cover - 3 SD6022
23 Mounting Foot SD6023
24 Bed Rail SD6024
25 Tailstock SD6025
26 Belt Tension Lever SD6026
27 Bolt SD6027
28 Bolt SD6028
29 Bolt SD6029
30 Bolt SD6030
31 Machine Screw SD60231
32 Bolt SD6032
33 Lock Knob SD6033
34 Socket Head Screw SD6034
35 Washer SD6035
36 Washer SD6036
37 Washer SD6037
38 Bearing SD6038
39 Bearing SD6039
40 Switch SD6040
41 Belt Tensioning Lever SD6041
42 Hinge SD6042
43 Belt SD6043
45 Bolt SD6045
46 Motor SD6046
47 Washer SD6047
48 Bolt
49 Power Cable with Plug
30
PARTS LIST
No. Description Part No.

O
GENERAL SAFETY RULES FOR OPERATING MACHINERY
1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE.
Read the manual carefully. Learn the
machines applications and limitations, as
well as the specific potential hazards
peculiar to it.
2. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE
and in working order.
3. EARTH ALL MACHINES.
If the machine is equipped with three-pin
plug, it should be plugged into a three-pin
electrical socket. Never remove the earth
pin.
4. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES.
5. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN.
Cluttered areas and benches invite
accidents.
6. DON’T USE IN DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT.
Don’t use machinery in damp or wet
locations, or expose them to rain. Keep
work area well lit.
7. KEEP CHILDREN AND VISITORS AWAY.
All children and visitors should be kept a
safe distance from work area.
8. MAKE WORKSHOP CHILDPROOF
Use padlocks, master switches or remove
starter keys etc.
9. DON’T FORCE THE MACHINE.
It will do the job better and safer, at the rate
for which it was designed.
10. USE RIGHT TOOL.
Don’t force a tool or attachment to do a
job for which it was not designed.
11. WEAR PROPER APPAREL.
Loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings,
bracelets, or other jewellery may get
caught in moving parts. Nonslip footwear is
recommended. Long hair should be
contained.
12. USE SAFETY GLASSES.
Also use face or dust mask if cutting
operation is dusty. Everyday eyeglasses
only have impact resistant lenses, they are
NOT safety glasses.
13. USE EAR DEFENDERS.
14. DON’T OVERREACH.
Keep proper footing and balance at all
times.
15. MAINTAIN TOOLS IN TOP CONDITION.
Keep tools sharp and clean for best and
safest performance. Follow instructions for
lubricating and changing accessories.
16. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE MACHINE
before servicing or changing accessories.
17. AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING.
Ensure the machine is switched OFF before
plugging in.
18. CHECK FOR DAMAGE.
If part of the machine (eg. A cover or
guard), is damaged, it should be carefully
inspected to ensure that it can perform its’
intended function correctly. If in doubt, the
part should be renewed. Damage to
moving parts or major components should
be Inspected by a qualified technician
before operating the machine. Contact
your local dealer for advice.
19. DO NOT STAND ON THE MACHINE.
Serious injury could occur if the machine is
tipped over. Do not store materials above
or near the machine such that it is
necessary to stand on the machine to get
to them.
20. NEVER operate a machine when under the
influence of alcohol, drugs or medication.
WARNING
As with all machinery, there are certain hazards involved with their operation and use. Exercising
respect and caution will considerably lessen the risk of personal injury. However, if normal safety
precautions are overlooked, or ignored, personal injury to the operator may result.
4
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
A full range of optional accessories (detailed below) are available from your local dealer.
Accessory Part No
Cup Turning Chuck 6500641
Screw Chuck 6500642
4 Jaw Independent Lathe Chuck 6500645
6" Face Plat (Right Hand) 6500646
8 Piece Chisel Set 6500649
29
PARTS & SERVICE TEL: [phone]
or e-mail as follows:
PARTS: [email protected]
SERVICE: [email protected]
SPARE PARTS AND SERVICING
For spare parts or servicing, please contact your nearest Clarke dealer or Clarke International on
one of the following numbers.

O
1. IMPORTANT: You should not operate this
machine unless you are thoroughly familiar
with wood turning lathes and wood turning
techniques. If there is any doubt
whatsoever, you should consult a qualified
person.
2. Do not operate the machine until it is
completely assembled, and this entire
manual, has been read and understood.
3. Ensure the proper electrical regulations are
followed. The machine must be properly
earthed.
4. Before switching the machine ON, ALWAYS:-
a. Clear the lathe bed of ALL objects
(tools, scraps of wood etc.).
b. Examine the setup carefully, ensuring
nothing could possibly interfere with
the rotating workpiece. eg. The tool
rest is secure and not liable to swing
into the workpiece. Rotate workpiece
by hand to check.
c. Ensure the tool rest is adjusted to the
correct height, and is as close to the
workpiece as possible.
d. Ensure all clamps are properly secured.
e. Ensure your clothing is properly
adjusted.
f. Ensure the workpiece is centralised.
5. Make all adjustments with the power OFF.
6. ALWAYS use the slowest speed when
starting a new workpiece, and cut at
correct speed for material and shape.
7. ALWAYS remove the tool rest when sanding
or polishing.
8. When turning between centres, always
ensure that the tailstock centre is snug
against the workpiece, with the spindle
locked, AND the Tailstock securely locked
to the bed. NEVER loosen the tailstock
spindle OR the tailstock with the workpiece
turning.
NOTE: The centre should be lubricated
(unless it is a ball bearing type).
9. DO NOT drive the workpiece into the
centre when the centre is installed in the
headstock. Always set the workpiece into
the centre with a soft mallet first, and then
mount the Centre with workpiece attached
into headstock spindle.
10. When using the Faceplate, ensure the
workpiece is securely fastened to it and
the appropriate size faceplate is used to
correctly support the workpiece. Ensure
the securing screws cannot interfere with
the turning tool at the finished dimension.
11. ALWAYS rough cut the workpiece as close
as possible to the finished shape before
mounting on to a faceplate.
12. ALWAYS examine the workpiece for flaws.
Do not use wood which is split or has knots.
Test glued joints before mounting on to
lathe to ensure they have completely set.
13. When roughing off, DO NOT jam tool into
workpiece or take too big a cut.
14. NEVER attempt to remount a faceplate
turning to the faceplate for any reason.
Never attempt to remount a between-
centres turning if the original centres in the
turning have been altered or removed.
15. ALWAYS clean the machine at the end of a
working session. Remove centres from the
headstock AND tailstock and store them.
Ensure the work area is cleaned before
leaving the machine.
16. Should any part of the lathe be missing,
damaged, or fail in any way, or any
electrical component fail to perform
properly, shut OFF the machine and
disconnect from the power supply. Replace
missing, damaged or failed parts before
resuming operation. If in doubt, consult
your local dealer. Always disconnect from
power supply when carrying our repairs.
17. Be particularly careful with your clothing
when operating a lathe. Always wear
safety glasses. Long hair should be
contained. See General Safety Instructions
- Apparel.
18. Do not exceed recommended speeds.
Refer to chart on page 12.
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR WOOD LATHES
5
glued or tacked in place, do satisfactory work.
These have the advantage that special sizes,
tapers etc., can be made.
The drum is used mainly for sanding the edges
of curved work. The squareness of the edge of
the work can be best retained by using a simple
form of vertical fence as shown. The standard
sanding drums are commonly made with a
threaded hole to fit the Lathe Drive Spindle. To
guard against loosening of the taper shank while
the drum is in operation, it is advisable to support
the free end, using either a ball bearing or plain
60° centre in the tailstock.
4. USE OF WOOD CHUCKS FOR
SANDING
Quick acting chucks can be very useful for
sanding operations on duplicate production
parts. The chuck is made slightly oversized, and
a piece of rubber hose (for small parts) is inserted
in the recess to grip the workpieces. Workpieces
can be changed without stopping the lathe.
MAINTENANCE
WARNING :
For your own safety, turn the switch ‘off’ and remove the plug from the electrical socket
before maintaining or lubricating your lathe.
Frequently blow out any dust that may accumulate inside the motor.
If the mains lead is worn, cut or damaged in any way, have it replaced immediately.
LUBRICATION
All the BALL BEARINGS are packed with grease at the factory and require no further lubrication.
Periodically lubricate the the tailstock screw threads with either SAE20 or SAE30 engine oil.
28
Fig.60
Fig. 59

O
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Connect the mains lead to a standard 230 volt (50Hz) electrical supply using a 13 amp BS1363 plug
fitted with a 13 amp fuse. or a suitably fused isolator switch.
WARNING : THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE EARTHED.
IMPORTANT : The wires in the mains lead are coloured in accordance with the following code :
Green & Yellow - Earth
Blue - Neutral
Brown - Live
As the colours of the flexible cord of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings
identifying terminals in your plug, proceed as follows :-
Connect GREEN & YELLOW coloured cord to plug terminal marked with a letter “E” or Earth
symbol ‘ ’ or coloured GREEN or GREEN & YELLOW.
Connect BROWN coloured cord to plug terminal marked letter “L” or coloured RED.
Connect BLUE coloured cord to plug terminal marked letter “N” or coloured BLACK.
We recommend that this unit is fitted with a Residual Current Device (RCD)
f this appliance is fitted with a plug which is moulded onto the electric cable (i.e. non-rewirable)
please note:
1. The plug must be thrown away if it is cut from the electric cable. There is a danger of electric
shock if it is subsequently inserted into a socket outlet.
2. Never use the plug without the fuse cover fitted.
3. Should you wish to replace a detachable fuse carrier, ensure that the correct replacement is
used (as indicated by marking or colour code).
4. Replacement fuse covers can be obtained from your local dealer or most electrical stockists.
5. The fuse in the plug must be replaced with one of the same rating (13 amps) and this
replacement must be ASTA approved to BS1362.
We recommend that this machine is connected to the mains supply through a Residual Current
Device (RCD).
If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician. Do not attempt any electrical repairs yourself.
FUSE RATING
The fuse in the plug for this appliance must be rated at 13 amps
MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS
The four speed pulley system of this lathe is designed to use a 1725 RPM, 370W motor. Rotation is
clockwise as viewed from the pulley end of the shaft. It is wired for 230 Volt, 50Hz.
Caution: Do not any other type of motor as their use may be hazardous .
6
The machines’ ON and OFF buttons are marked “I” for ON and “O” for OFF.
Should the power fail whilst the machine is in use, the NO VOLT RELAY will operate. This is a safety
feature which prevents the machine from starting up automatically when the power is restored. It
will be necessary to press the ON button to continue operations.
The application of the sandpaper strip is shown
in fig. 57. Care must be exercised in order to
prevent dubbing the corners of beads, shoulders
etc. It is good practice to finish sanding with
the work in reverse rotation. This is particularly
true when sanding basswood, white pine and
mahogany. These woods are hard to sand
clean since sanding packs the surface fuzz
down to the wood. Sanding very lightly, and
not too long with the lathe reversed, will lift the
fibres and cut them off cleanly.
2. USE OF SANDING DISCS
A fully adjustable sanding table adds to the
scope and convenience of sanding operations.
Sanding is always done on the down travel side
of the wheel working on the other side would
kick the work upwards. Either second or third
speed can be used.
SANDING, BUFFING AND POLISHING
1. USING THE LATHE TO SAND TURNINGS
Turnings should be sanded with the lathe running
in second lowest speed. A large sheet of
sandpaper is useful for smoothing cylinders. All
other sanding operations are done with a
narrow strip of abrasive paper. The best finishing
grit is 3/0 for soft wood, 4/0 for hard woods. Worn
2/0 paper is often used, and is the equivalent of
3/0 or 4/0 new paper.
The sanding disc is a metal plate with a threaded
shank which fits the end of the lathe spindle.
Abrasive paper is glued to the machined
surface of the plate by means of a quick drying
cement supplied for this purpose. Abrasive discs
can be purchased or cut from the standard sizes
of abrasive paper.
3. USE OF SANDING DRUMS
Standard sanding drums are usually rubber
cylinders which can be expanded to hold an
abrasive sleeve in place. Similar cylinders turned
on the lathe and covered with abrasive paper
27
Fig.58
Fig. 57
Fig. 56

O
1. TYPES OF PLASTICS
There are two general groups of plastics. The first
includes all phenol plastics moulded under heat
and pressure. Bakelite and Formica are
examples. In the second are all catalyst setting
plastics of various bases sold under such trade
names as Lucite, Catalin, Cast Bakelite,
Marblette, Tenite and Trafford. Those in the
second group are most generally used for
craftwork. They are easy to turn, being a little
harder than wood but much softer than any of
the soft metals.
2.MOUNTING THE WORK
The most useful mounting device is the 4-jaw
(metal lathe) chuck. When this is not available,
cylinders can be mounted on a slightly tapered
wooden mandrel. Rods can be mounted
between centres, using either the wood
mounting centres or metal mounting
arrangements. When the spur centre is used,
slots should be sawed across the work.
3.USE OF WOOD TURNING CHISELS
4. USE OF FORMED TOOLS FOR
PRODUCTION BEADING AND
SIMILAR OPERATIONS
Standard wood turning chisels are excellent for
turning plastics by means of scraping methods.
The tool rest should be slightly below centre and
the chisel handle should be held a little higher
than the cutting edge to give a negative rake.
Scraping tools should be kept to a minimum. A
large contact area, such as the full edge of the
spear-point chisel, will cause chatter and
probable chipping.
Properly worked, the chip comes off in a
continuous ribbon. In cold weather, plastic may
become brittle and should be tempered in
warm water for about ten minutes before
turning.
When a number of identical pieces are to be
produced, all having a distinctive surface
pattern, preformed tools will speed the work and
assure uniformity. Patterns like those illustrated
can be created by grinding thin gauge
aluminium strips. A holder, like the one shown,
can then be used to support any one of your
prepared strips and guide it against the
workpiece.
5.TURNING BALLS
Plastic balls are rough turned in the usual manner
and then brought to perfect roundness by using
a tube tool. The tube should be slightly less in
diameter than the finished size of the ball. It can
be brass or steel, ground square across the end.
The tool is used with or without a rest, and is
worked by swinging it from side to side.
6.POLISHING PLASTICS
Start with sanding. First use 150-grit dry paper to
remove tool marks, than finish off with 150-grit
and 400-grit papers, in succession, used wet.
Press lightly to avoid overheating and marring
the work. Buffing gives the final polish, using the
polishing compounds commonly supplied for this
purpose. Do not press too hard or hold wheel
at one spot too long, keep moving around,
otherwise the plastic might become heat
marked.
26
Fig. 55
Fig.54
Fig. 53
TURNING PLASTICS
Your wood lathe is shipped complete in one carton and is fully assembled at the factory, with the
exception of the Belt Tensioning Lever. Screw this into the socket to the left of, and directly below,
the ON/OFF switches.
If any parts are missing or damaged in any way, please contact your Clarke dealer immediately.
Ensure the lathe is secured firmly to a firm level surface...a sturdy workbench for example, or, if
necessary, a piece of 1/2” ply may be used, and this in turn should be clamped to a strong work
surface when the lathe is in use. The lathe may then be moved to a more convenient location for
storage purposes. This is handy if workspace is limited.
If a piece of ply is used, ensure the mounting screws are countersunk into the underside of the ply, so
that the bearing surface is completely flat.
UNPACKING AND CHECKING CONTENTS OF CARTON
Fig. 1
MAIN COMPONENTS
Fig. 2
7
ACCESSORIES
1. 4-Jaw Independent Lathe Chuck
2. Cup Turning Chuck
3. Screw Chuck
4 Face Plate Right Hand
1. ON/OFF switches
2. Drive Centre
3. Tool Rest
4 Tool Rest Holder
5. Tool Rest Locking Lever
6. Tailstock Spindle
7. Tailstock
8. Tailstock Spindle Locknut
9. Tailstock Advancing Handle
10. Tailstock Locknut
11. Face Plate
12. Belp Tensioning Lever
13. 3-Piece Chisel Set

O
SPINDLE SPEEDS
A chart showing spindle speeds and recommended turning speeds is mounted on the Head cowl
and for convenience, is duplicated as follows:
CAUTION : MAKE SURE THE POWER CORD IS
REMOVED FROM THE OUTLET BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO CHANGE THE BELT POSITION.
Changing speeds
1. Undo the two screws securing the Pulley
Access Panel.
2. Slacken the two Motor securing bolts -
arrowed in Fig. 3.
3. Pull down on the Belt Tension Lever to
remove belt tension.
4. Move belt to appropriate pulley.
5. Pull up on Belt Tension Lever to tension belt.
It should be firm - 1/2” total movement at
the middle of the run.
6. Retighten Motor securing bolts and replace
Pulley Access Cover.
8
SPINDLE SPEEDS
Fig. 3
RECOMMENDED GENERAL SPEEDS
SPINDLETURNING
SQUARE LENGTH ROUGHING FINISHING
1” (25mm) 12” (305mm) 1750 2510
2” (50mm) 16” (406mm) 1250 2510
3” (75mm) 20” (508mm) 850 2510
4” (100mm) 20” (508mm) 850 2510
DIAMETER THICKNESS ROUGHING FINISHING
9” (228mm) 4” (100mm)Max. 850 2510
8” (205mm) 4” (100mm)Max. 1250 2510
6” (150mm) 4” (100mm)Max. 1750 2510
FACE PLATETURNING
Fig.3 shows the belt positioned on the second
step from the outside edge of the pulley. This
produces a spindle speed of 1250 RPM. (Refer
to the chart above).
If you wish to run at a higher speed, say 2510
RPM, you must shift the belt inwards, 2 steps.
the ball is constantly shifted, never more than
1/8 turn and always with a definite pattern. Since
turning between centres makes the work a
perfect sphere across the grain, the ball must
be mounted in the chuck so that the first
scraping cuts will round it up in the opposite
direction .
6. TURNED BOXES
To make the 12-piece bowl, a board about
22x76x760mm, is cut into pieces about 65mm
long, the saw blade being tilted 15° and the
board being turned alternatively face up and
face down to make the successive cuts. These
12 pieces glued together and clamped by
wrapping the assembly with wire. When dry the
rim thus formed is glued to a temporary circular
backing which is mounted on the large
faceplate.
Turned boxes involve deep recessing together
with a special system of working the lid and body
of the box together as one unit. The inside of
the lid is turned first. Next, the inside of the body
is turned. A careful check must be made when
turning the body portion so that the lid will be a
tight press fit. The lid is then pressed on to the
body and the outer circumference and face of
the lid, together with the outer circumference
of the body, are turned all at one time. This
insures accurate matching of the two pieces.
After the work is complete, the tight fit of the lid
can be relieved by sanding the lip of the body.
7.SEGMENTED TURNINGS
Segmented turnings and boxes can be
extremely attractive and this method of
preparing wood stock is more economical than
the use of a large stock piece.
For some types of work, segmenting is the only
practical method because a block (if
obtainable), would be so large that it would be
very likely to warp.
The bowl illustrated in fig. 51 requires 12 segment
pieces for the sides. Bowls can be worked with
6 or 8 pieces if desired.
A recess of the largest possible diameter, and
about 22mm deep, is turned in the open end of
the rim. The rim is removed from the lathe, and
stock for the bottom is mounted in its place on
a second faceplate. This is turned to size and a
rim about 3mm deep is turned to exactly fit the
recess prepared in the rim. The rim is then fitted
over the bottom and glued, making a drum
shape with a faceplate at each end. This drum
is cut completely in two, at a point about 22mm
above the bottom, completing the cut with a
hand saw. Both parts of the cut surface are
faced off square and smooth, then reglued
together, breaking the joints exactly half and
half. The cutting and regluing process is
repeated with a section about 32mm wide.
After this, the temporary backing block is cut
off, leaving the bowl as shown in the final
illustration. From this point on the work is simply
a matter of turning down the bowl to any desired
shape.
25
Fig. 52
Fig. 51
Fig. 50

O
PREPARATION
1. SPINDLE TURNING
If you are not experienced at the art of wood
turning, we suggest that you practice using the
various wood turning tools, starting with turning
a small spindle.
1.8 Place the wood between the centres and
advance the tailstock so that the rotating
centre is forced into the spindle at the exact
centre mark, rotating the spindle as you do
so.
1.9 Adjust the tool rest approx. 3mm away
from the corners of the wood and 3mm
above the centre line. Note the angled
position of the tool rest base.
9
1.1 Select a piece of wood 50x50x305mm.
1.2 Draw diagonal lines on each end to locate
the centres.
1.3 On one end, make a saw cut approximately
2mm deep on each diagonal line. This is
for the spur centre.
You may also remove the drive centre from
the spindle, as described on p.10
‘Faceplate Turning’, and place the
point of the centre on the wood where the
diagonal lines cross.
Drive the centre into the wood. Use a
wooden mallet or a plastic hammer, but put
a piece of wood on the end of the centre
to protect it.
1.6 Replace the Drive Centre, ensuring it is tight.
Positioning the Tailstock
1.7 Position the tailstock at the appropriate
distance for the job in hand. To move the
tailstock, slacken the securing nut located
underneath. Always allowing a little
room for the advancement of the rotating
centre.
Wooden Mallet
or
Plastic Hammer
Fig. 4
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
1.10 Check to ensure there are no spanners/
wrenches/pieces of wood or other debris
in the area, and that your clothing is
properly adjusted before pushing the ON
button.
The procedure for cutting and the use of
woodworking chisels is described under
“Using Woodworking Chisels, starting on
page 12.
Fig. 7
Lock the trool rest base and the tool rest
IMPORTANT. ALWAYS rotate the wood by hand
to guarantee that the corners do not strike the
tool rest..
and mounted on this chuck. thus mounted, the
remaining contours can be turned to shape.
After being chucked the remaining face of the
ring can be turned to the proper contour, thus
cutting away the centre portion.
Work of this type take constant measurements,
or better still, use a template to guard against
over or under cutting.
5. TURNING BALLS
Another method of turning a ring makes use of
a recessed chuck. The work stock is mounted
on a screw centre and one half of the ring is
formed, but the ring is not cut away from its
centre. The stock is then removed and a
recessed chuck, mounted on the large
faceplate, is prepared to receive the ring in a
tight press fit.
Wooden balls of large size are first roughly turned
between centres, using standard procedures.
Smaller balls can be mounted as face plates on
the small faceplate of screw centre. Lines drawn
to indicate the centre and ends of the ball
shape are helpful in plotting the curve. A
template should always be used for accurate
visual observation of the work progress.
If the ball is mounted as a faceplate turning,
almost the entire surface can be turned before
it becomes necessary to rechuck it. Rechucking
can be accomplished in a deep cut chuck,
which will hold the finished portion of the ball in
a tight press fit. Another method of rechucking
is to use a shallow cup chuck which will not
support the ball alone, but must be used in
conjunction with the tailstock. When using the
shallow chuck, a wood block is fitted to the
tailstock so that the ball can revolve upon it. This
block should be lubricated with beeswax or
grease. In using the shallow chuck method,
24
Fig. 49
Fig. 65
Fig. 48
Fig. 47

O
10
Fig. 9
2. FACEPLATE TURNING
Turning which cannot be worked through
centres, must be mounted on a faceplate, or
other work-holding device. (Some jobs may
require the use of special chucks).
To attach the face plate, first remove the Drive
Centreas follows:
Removing the Drive Centre
Hold the spindle with the spanner provided, on
the flats machined on the spindle.
Using a suitable spanner on the Drive centre, turn
it anticlockwise whilst holding the drive centre
steady - See Fig 8.
The Face Plate is removed in a similasr manner
All face plate work is done by scraping. Any
attempt to use a cutting technique on edge
grain, will result in hogging or gouging, which
may tear the tool out of your hands.
For Faceplate turning, the work (suitably
trimmed so that it is as near to its final
dimension as possible), should be firmly
mounted on to the faceplate, using screws as
appropriate (see fig. 9).
The complete assembly is then screwed on to
the headstock spindle, and tightened
securely, by holding the faceplate, and
turning the spindle nut using a spanner, to lock
it up against the faceplate boss.
The screws used in securing the work to the
face plate, must not be of sufficient length as
to interfere with the tool at the final dimension.
It may be necessary to screw the work to a
backing piece, depending upon design, or
where screws are not permissible at all, the
work may be glued to a backing piece, fitting
a piece of paper at the joint, which will allow
for later separation without damaging the
wood.
Fig. 8
FANCY FACE PLATE TURNINGS
After making a recess at least 1/2 the way
through the workpiece, and finishing this on the
inside, remove the workpiece from the lathe.
Now mount a short length of soft wood stock on
the screw centre and turn this down to form a
dowel that will be a tight press (not driving) fit
inside the recessed end of the cylinder. Mount
the cylinder on this wooden chuck, and recess
the unworked end deep enough to form a
perfect hole through the entire cylinder.
3. RECHUCKING
Rechucking is the general term used to describe
any additional work mounting that is necessary
to complete a turning project. The method of
working cylinders, and the use of a plug chuck
as already described are typical examples.
Another good example is the rechucking of a
bowl.
1. PREPARING A PLUG CHECK
A plug check is an auxiliary wood chuck
mounted onto a faceplate. The chuck can be
any size diameter, should be about 65mm thick
for stability and should be provided with a 20mm
hold in the centre for receiving a tenon turned
at the end of the workpiece. Once made, such
chucks are permanent useful fixtures for turning
balls, goblets etc. In use, the wood stock for
turning is turned between centres to produce a
tenon at one end which will be a driving fit in
the hole of the chuck. When mounted in the
chuck, the workpiece is substantially supported
for any faceplate type of turning.
2. TURNING CYLINDERS
Stock for cylinders should be mounted on the
screw centre or a small faceplate. The tailstock
can be brought up to support the work while
the circumference is being turned and finished.
Afterwards, the tailstock is backed off and the
outer end of the cylinder is recessed, using
methods already described for making deep
presses.
The work is mounted on a wood backing block
secured to the large faceplate, and is turned in
the usual manner, except for the back side
(which is against the mounting block). It is then
removed from the mounting block. An auxiliary
chuck of soft wood is now made in the same
manner as that for the cylinder chuck. This
chuck must have a turned recess properly sized
to accommodate the rim of the bowl in a tight
press fit. When the bowl is mounted in this chuck,
the bottom can be cleaned off and slightly
recessed to complete the desired contours.
4. TURNING A RING
One method of turning a ring requires a spindle
chuck. The work stock is first mounted to a
backing block held by the large faceplate, and
is turned to shape on the outer side. The inside
diameter of the ring is also shaped, all the way
through to the backing block. The work is then
removed from the backing block. A spindle
chuck is now prepared so that it will be a tight
press fit inside the ring, and the ring is reversed
23
Fig. 46
Fig. 45
Fig. 44
Fig. 43