DeWalt 7700/3400 Instructions for use

© DeWAIX
instruction &
maintenance
manual
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, READ THIS MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING TOOL
REVIEW SAFETY RULES AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS FREQUENTLY.
This booklet is provided, for your convenience
te the use and care of your new OeWait
Theses instructions include^ operation;
precautions, preventive maintenance, main-
tenancs and other pertinent data to assist you
in assuring long life and dependable service
fromyoursaw.
700 8" RADIAL ARM SAW
No. 7700/3400,120 VOLT. TYPE 5
No. 7700-01,220 VOLT, TYPE 5
Builetin No. 8814

INDEX
Uop^king, Set-Up.2»4
Machine Controls,.5
Intr^tcHon.^
Ryles for O^ration
and Maintenance.7*8
Alignments.943
Aligninefit Guide .. 14
PrecuttingWorkSurface.1547
Basic Cuts ..18-21
Saw Blades & Accessories,.... 22
Fancy Cuts.. 23-24
Parts Lists, Order Instruc.25-28
B^iD Service Centers ..32
UNPACKING & SET-UP INSTRUCTIONS
You can easily set up your new DeWALT Radial Arm Saw, one of America’s
most popular power tools. Handling is minimized because every machine
is partially assembled for shipment to you. The only tools required are the
wrenches furnished with the machine, Phillips screwdriver, regular
screwdriver, adjustable wrench, a good square, and a small amount of
grease or petroleum jelly. Just follow this easy step-by-step procedure on
pages 3 & 4 in setting up your new saw!
THIS IS THE
PARTS
ILLUSTRATION
MENTIONED
IN STEP 3
ON FACING
PAGE
NO. ITEM QUANTITY
1 3/8" Dia. Flat Hd. Screws 4
2 Lock Washers 4
3 3/8" Ola. Nuts 4
4 Large flange Hex Nuts 8
5 Self Tapping Screws 4
6 Thumb Screws 2
7 Cleat Brackets 2
8 Eyelets '2
9 Large Base Washer I
PARTS IDENTIFICATION
NO. ITEM QUANTITY
10 3/8* I.D. Washer 1
11 Base Clamp 1
12 Square Nut 1
13 1-3/4" Lg. Hex Bolt 1
14 Square Nut 1
15 Inserts 2
16 Handles 2
17 1/4-20 X1/2* Lg. Carriage Bolt 1
18 Guard Extension 1
NO. ITEM QUANTITY
19 Washer 1
20 Hex Nut 1
21 Anti-Kickback Device 1
22 Wing Bolt 1
23 Key I
24 • Arbor Washer 1
25 Spacer Washers 2
26 Arbor Screw* 1
27 & 28Wrencb« 2
"Assembled to Saw
2

Lay out conttnts of har^are bafs
in sequeixe illustrated in the piiot©^
graph on page two ( 2 ) , handy t® the
assembly area (item 26 is assem^
bled to saw artor). Familiarize your^
self with base and table assembly on
page 27 before asstmbling saw.
arm and motor assembly from carton.
Remove remainder of contents from carton.
^16
APPROX
Assmim tatJto frame (2 large channel pieces) to
the using <4) flat head .3/8* dia. saws, lock
voters and 3/8* dia. nuts. Tighten securely with
wrench. See page 27.
Attach the cleats to the underside of the table with
the seif-tapping screws. Note: Holes aie already
drilled fm" you. Tighten securely but do not strip the table
top.
Screw (4) large flange hex nuts onto the threaded
studs, of the table cleats m the studs extwd beyond
the nuts approximately 1-5/16*.
Instoll the table to the frame by putting cleat studs thru the elongated holes in
Screw (4) large flange hex nuts to the cleat studs and leave loose. These will be
the frame
tightened when you adjust the table 90® to the arm.
through the rectangular hole m the cleat. With one hand hold the eyelet against the
back board in line with the thumb screw while turning the thumb screw with the other hand to
force the stud Into the eyelet until it snaps in place. Repeat for the other side.
3

11 c Hold the large base washer at an angle and insert
It into the base from the bottom as shown.
IMPORTANT—the bottom of the arm should rest on this
thrust washer—see step 13.
17 8 Do not plug saw into receptacle at this time. Insert
Key in slot with notch down. Switch can now be
operated. Turn switch off and remove Key with upward
and outward motion.
« Remove the arm and motor assembly from the
packing. Lybri^te about 5’ of arm under miter
scale by applying grtaM over entire surface. Insert the
rear of the arm into the base as shown. Turn and “wig¬
gle” the end of the arm to ^se it in place. Pull the miter
locator pin m the arm goes all the way down to the base
washw.
15* Put the guard extension in place. Install the
1/4-20 X 1/2* carriage bolt into the rear square
hole of the saw guard with the bolt head inskie. Secure it
with a waidier and hex nut using the wrench provided.
18. MOUNT YOUR SAW ON A LEG STAND. STURDY
WORK BENCH, OR APPROPRIATE TABLE.
TABLE TOP OF SAW SHOULD PROTRUDE APPROX¬
IMATELY FOUR (4) INCHES OVER MOUNTING SUR¬
FACE. THIS UNIT WILL FIT A 35021 DELUXE MACHINE
STAND.
19, REFER NEXT TO MACHINE CONTROLS. IN¬
TRODUCTION AND ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES
ON FOLLOWING PAGES. YOUR SAW MUST BE COM¬
PLETELY ALIGNED BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS
INSTALUNG BLADE
To install the blade rotate the saw to the out-rip p<Bitwfi
(see page6) at the end of the arm as shown. Make sure
saw is all the way to the out-rip petition (against front
bumper) and in its high^ elevated positiofi (see page
6). if saw is not against front bumper, it is slightly out of
phase with cover and arm. To correct, follow instructions
at bottom of page 12. Now raite the lower guard with the
lift tab provided and secure guard in raised position by
placing your fingers under the guard just atxive the artxsr
(see above illustration). Blade can new be installed or
removed without touching table top^ Wace blade on 3rt»r
following the illustration on the guard so the teeth of the
blade and direction arrow point in the proper dr^mn.
When tightening or lootening blade arbor %rew. the
blade can be held secure by inserting a siawdriver
through the hole in the blade, and alkwring scrawdriv** to
rest against the upper guard. A piece of scrap luml^
held against the blade teeth and resting on the up^r
guard will serve the same purpose. Do to Mitite
MaM wMi hami!
16 . Insert anti-kickback device in front end of the
guard and secure it with the wing bolt
IT IS RECOMMENOED THE TOOL BE CON¬
NECTED TO A SEPARATE CIRCUIT WITH AT
LEAST 15 AMP. CAPACITY. THIS CIRCUIT
SHOULD NOT BE CONNECTED TO THE LIGHT-
ING CIRCUIT. THE OUTLET MUST BE
GROUNDED. FOLLOW MOTOR OPERATING
AND GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS ON PAGE
8. SEE INDEX FOR OPERATION AND
MAINTENANCE.
Plaite the large arbor washer on the outside the blade,
then (2) spacer wafers and arbor screw. Note: left
hand thread. CAUTION: Never assemble spi«r washers
m arbor setewdir«t% apinst blade.
IMWRTANT^CLWCM AOJUS»fNT:
T^ten artor screw until the spring washw* iatteni
Then bade off 1/6 turn (one flat on the h« head). This
ill^s blade to slip on spindle if It shmild jam in the
i blade jams stop saw immediately! Qutch will tm
funrtlon if the m:rm is not set pro^ly.
4

RADIAL ARM
YOKE^__
LOCATOR
PIN
ASSEMBLY
GUARD EXTENSION
ON-OFF
CONTROL
RIP
LOCK
OPERATING HANDLE
UPPER GUARD
MITER SCALE
GUIDE FENCE
mUMB SCREW
FRONT
LOWER
guard
BACK
board
CARRIAGE
.YOKE
CLAMP
HANDLE
KEY SWITCH
•YOKE
ELEVATION KNOB
BEVEL LOCK-
CLAMP
ANTI-KICKBACK DEVICE
MITER
LOCATOR PIN
NOVAPLY TOP'
REAR
LOWER GUARD

INTRODUCTION
You have now set up your saw by following the
preceding directions. But before plugging in the saw,
there are three important things you m ust do.
1 . Familiarize yourself thoroughly with the
principles of radial arm sawing. See Page 5 for
names of components.
2 . Familiarize yourself thoroughly with the rules
and instructions for operation on next two pages.
3. Carefully follow the alignment and adjustment
procedures.
The five basic movements are shown below. See
pages 18 to 20 for more details.
BEVELING —Elevate saw all the way up. Release
the bevel lock knob—rotate saw to desired angle.
(Saw automatically stops at 45®). Relock Knob.
ELEVATION— R elease wing nut with left hand and MITERING— R each around to base and release
turn black knob with right hand. This raises and clamp handle—pull miter pin and rotate saw to
lowers saw. Lock in position by tightening wing nut. desired angle. Let the pin fall in place and bear on the
arm slightly to the right. (Saw automatically stops at
45®). Lock base clamp.
CROSS CUTTING —Elevate saw until it clears
fence. Unlock riplock by turning counterclockwise —
pull saw back and forth. (If at anytime the saw does
not go all the way behind the fence or it does not hit
the front bumper refer to rollerhead adjustment on
page 12).
RIPPING —Release yoke clamp handle by pulling it
toward you. Rotate motor slightly clockwise (looking
down), and using left index finger depress index pin
handle and rotate saw to in-rip or out-rip position.
(See page 20). When pin clicks into place, lock yoke
clamp handle.

RULES FOR OPERATION
OF STATIONARY POWER TOOLS
1. ICMIlW' Yimil WMm TWL tli« owner's manual
oarefuily. L^am its applii»tion and limitation, as wail
as tlia'^speclio pAanial ha^nis ^ullar to this tool.
2. WEEP. IM and in iM^dcing order.
3. mmUMii Ali imis* ll t^ is quipped with three-
pronf plug, it should 1^ plu^^ Into a thme-hole
electrical i^irtacle. If an adapter Is used to accom¬
modate a tvwi-prong rmp^cle, the adapter wire must
he attached to a knoem piNfnii. remove the
third pron&
4 . nmmm msummm xiys and wrenches. Form
habit of checking to that ke^ and adfusting
wrenches are removed before turning on tool.
5. KSPIRIRIC AREA CLEAN. Cluttered areas and benches
invite accidente.
i. AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT. Don't expose
imwm tools to rain. Don't use power tools in damp or
lotions. Keep your work area well illuminated.
7. USER CHILDRei AWAY. All visitors ^ould be kept a
sate distance from wodc area.
a. MAKE VKIIN^HOP iaDPm<B«--widi padltKdcs, master
^idttdies, or by removing sterter keys.
i. DON’T RNKB TML. it will do the job better and be
safer at the rate for whidi it was deigned.
ID. USE RIGHT TOOL. I^n't fonre fool or attachment to
do a job It was not designed for.
11. WEAR PROreR APPAREL. No loose clothing or jewelry
to get caught in moving parts. Rubber-soled footwear
is recommended for best footing,
12. USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES. Also use face or dust mask
if cudiing operation is dusty.
13. NEVER STAND ON TOOL. Serious injury could occur
if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is accidently
contained.
14. DONT OVERREACH. Keep your proper foofing and
balance at all times.
15. MAINTAIN TC^IS IN TOP CONDITION. Keep tools sharp
and clean for best performance. Follow instructions for
lubricating and changing accessories.
IS. DISCONNECT TOOLS before servicing and when chang¬
ing acc^sories such as blades, bits, cutters.
17. USE REIBMMENDED ACCESSORIES. Consult owner's
manual. Use of improper accessories may be hazard¬
ous.
IS. AWIO AMiOENTAL STARTING. Make sure switch is
l^fore plugging in cord.
19. KEEP HANDS AWAY FROM CUTTING AREA.
20. DO NOT OPSUITE electric tools in gaseous or explo¬
sive atmospheres. Motore In these tools normally
soark, and the sparks might Ignite fumes.
21. CHECK DAMAGED PARTS. Before further use of the
toot, a guard or other part that is damaged should be
carefully checked to assure that it will operate properly
and perform its Intended function— check for alignment
of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of
parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may
affect its operation. A guard or other part that is dam¬
aged should be properly repaired or replaced.
MAINTENANCE & OPERATION
1. Be sure blade rotates clockwise when facing arbor.
2. Secure table frame to a bench table, leg stand,
etc. before operating saw. It is recommended
that whatever saw support is used should slope
to the rear sufficiently to prevent the blade unit
from creeping forward due to gravity and it
should be securely anchored to the floor to pre¬
vent undesired movement.
3. Be sure all clamp handles are tight before start¬
ing any operation. Push back to tighten. Pull
to loosen.
4. Make sure blade and arbor collar are clean and col¬
lar is against blade. Tighten arbor screw securely,
and set clutch. (See clutch instructions). .
5. Keep the saw blade sharp and properly set.
6. Use anti-kickback device on guard; never re¬
move it.
7. Keep arm tracks and bearing surfaces clean and
dry. Periodically lubricate balls with a dry
lubricant.
8. Periodically recheck alignment (see alignment
chart).
9. Keep motor air slots clean and free of chips.
10. Do not attempt to operate saw on anything but
the designated voltage.
11. Do not use blades of larger diameter than 8".
12. Keep the saw blade sharp. Cracked or improper
type blades should not be used.
13. Never oil or grease arm tracks or the motor.
14. Do not wedge anything against fan to hold motor
shaft. .
15. Saw and table top should be kept away from
dampness.
16. Never force cutting action. Stalling or partial
stalling of the motor is dangerous and can cause
major damage to motor winding. If motor stalls
turn switch off immediately.
17. Do not remove ground prong from plug. Never
operate the saw unless it is properly grounded.
18. Be sure you are alert. If you are fatigued, rest
before you work.
19. Always use blade guard properly adjusted for
the operation you are performing. CAUTION: Do
not clean the lower plastic guard with solvents
or soaps. Use ONLY a cloth dampened with
water.
20. The motor and yoke should be safely behind the
guide fence before you start to cut. The saw
should always be returned to the rear of the
table after making a cut, and before you remove
any stock from the table.
21. Be certain the equipment is turned off before
making any adjustments.
22. When ripping, always feed the material past the
blade guard from the side opposite the anti¬
kickback device. Never stand in back, or in
direct line with the saw blade. Never rip from
the wrong end.
23. The saw blade or tool should be completely
stopped, and switch key removed, before you
leave the machine.
24. Always turn switch off before removing key.
7

INSTRUCTIONS
GROUNDING
This tool should be grounded while in use to protect the opera¬
tor from electric shock.
1, C ord-Connected Tools-~The tool is eciuipped with an ap¬
proved three-conductor cord and three-prong grounding type
plug to fit the proper grounding type receptacle. The green (or
green and yellow) conductor in the cord is the grounding wire.
Never connect the green (or green and yellow) wire to a live
terminal If your unit is for use on less than 150 volts, it has a
plug like that shown in Figure A. If it is for use on 150 to 250
volts, it has a plug like that shown in Figure 0. An adapter
Figures 8 and C, is available for connecting Figure A plugs to
two-prong receptacles. The green-colored rigid ear, lug, etc.,
must be connected to a permanent ground such as a properly
grounded outlet box. No adapter is available for a plug as
shown in Figure D. Adapter shown in Figures B and C is not
for use in Canada.
Ujre only 3-wire extension cords which have 3-prong type plugs
and 3-poie receptacles which accept the tool’s plug. Replace
or repair damaged or worn cord immediately.
If you replace the plug on the power cord, be sure to connect
the green wire only to the grounding (longest) prong, on a
3-prong plug.
EXTENSION CORD
When using the tool at a considerable distance from' power
source, a 3 conductor, grounding-type extension cord of ade¬
quate size must be used for safety and to prevent loss to power
and over-heating. Use the table below to determine the mini¬
mum wire size required.
Use only 3-wire extension cords which have 3-prong type plugs
and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tool’s plug. Replace or
repair damaged or worn cord immediately.
Anifi«re rating
0 to
2.10 to
a.ito
5.10 to
7.10 to
12.1 to
(on nameplate)
2.0
3.4
. 5.0
70
12 0
16.0
Ext. Cable -length
Wire Slie'<A.W.Q.)
2i ft
IS'
18
18
IS
16
14
so ft.
-18
18
18.
16
14
12
7S ft.
18
18
16
14
12
10
100 ft.
18
16
14
12
10
ISO ft
200ft.
li
li
14
14
12
12
12
10
11
MOTOR
Your DeWALT tool is powered by a B^D-built motor. Be sure your
power supply agrees with nameplate marking. Volts 50/^ Hz
means Alternating Current ONLY. Voltage variation of more than
10% will cause'loss of power and over-heating. All DeWALT tools
are factory-tested; if this tool does not operate, check the power
supply.
The use of a separate circuit independent of the'lighting circuit is
recommended.
MOTOR BRUSHES
It is recommended that the carbon brushes and the brush
springs be replaced when motor arcing becomes excessive.
If the surface of the commutator is pitted or grooved, we recom¬
mend the unit be taken to a DeWalt or Black 8i Decker Service
Center for repair. Otherwise, brushes and springs may be replac¬
ed as foJiows:
1. Unplug saw from powr supply.
2. Slide brush holder cover toward rear of motor housing
(hold hand in front of opening to prevent spring from
flying from opening). See photo below.
3. Remove spring along with terminal and lead wire.
4. Use a piece of stiff wire, such as an opened paper clip,
to reach inside the bmsh hoiders and pull brushes out.
5. insert new carbon brushes into the holder with the
radius tovi^rd the commutator.
6. Thread new springs into the temiinals and spring caps.
Insert Into brush holders and replace brush holder
covers.
7. Plug saw into power supply and allow saw to run Idle
for 15 minutes to seat the brushes.
For any other motor maintenance we recommend you take the
unit to a DeWalt or Black li Decker Service Center.
8

All MIV/ICT MT make certain saw is not connected to power source, now before going any
ML.I\JIIMIVII.IN I farther take time out to read the following important instructions, the
alignment of your new saw is most, important for making accurate cuts, the time spent here will add con¬
siderably TO YOUR OVERALL ENJOYMENT OF THIS FINE PRODUCT.
NOTE: SECURE TABLE FRAME OF UNIT TO A STURDY WORK BENCH, APPROPRIATE TABLE, OR LEG STAND, WITH SCREWS OR
BOLTS BEFORE MAKING ALIGNMENTS OR OPERATING.
ADJUSTING BASE TO ARM
Make certain the base is absolutely snug around the arm.
To do this refer to fig. A1 and adjust as follows:
1. Tighten the 5/16" bolt with a wrench until base is snug
around the arm and no appreciable play is noted.
2. Place the 3/8" I.D. Washer over the threaded end of the
base clamp (lubricate this washer and threads with a
small amount of grease). Install the base clamp in the
upper hole using the 3/8" square nut in the recess of
the base casting.
3. Position base clamp so that when it is locked the handle
position will be upright. If it is not, loosen the clamp rod
sufficiently to permit nut to come out of recess in
casting, then turn the nut 1/4 or 1/2 turn while holding
clamp rod. Retighten base clamp.
4. Place insert into plastic knob. Push knob on clamp
handle.
5. Release the base clamp by pulling it toward you, and
pull out the miter locator pin. You should now be able to
push the arm to the right and left and feel a slight drag.
6. If it is too hard to move, loosen the 5/16" bolt a little.
NOTE: The upper saw guard should be approx,
parallel with the table when the blade is touch¬
ing the table. If it is not, adjust the table by
turning the nuts on the table adjusting screws.
You will notice the mounting bolts, which hold the table to
the frame, are quite long. The large flange nuts, on the top
and bottom of the frame, suspend the table above the
frame about 1". There is an important reason for this con¬
struction. By turning these nuts up or down we can adjust
the table parallel to the arm. If the table is parallel to the
arm, then any groove you cut will be the same depth from
front to back. A simple method of adjusting the table to be
parallel with the arm is as follows:
1. With arm in cross cut position tighten base clamp
handle. Turn the anti-kickback rod on the guard upside-
down. The lower end of the rod will be
used as an indicator to determine if the entire table sur¬
face is the same distance from the arm.
2. Set the elevation adjustment so the end of the rod is
about 1/8" above the table top. Tighten elevating wing
nut. (Fig.A-2)
3. Push the saw all the way back. If the rod strikes the
surface, as you push it back, elevate it a little more so it
is 1/8" above as before.
4. Pull saw forward. Release base clamp handle, pull miter
locator pin and move the arm to your right until 30° is
indicated on the miter scale. As you move the arm, if the
end of the rod strikes the table, elevate it a little more
as before. With the arm 30° to the right, base clamp
handle tightened and the saw all the way back, turn the
height adjustment until the rod is just above the sur¬
face of the table and lock elevating wing nut.
5. Hand tighten the nuts on the back right table
suspension stud while still in 45° right position.
6. Pull the saw forward to the end of the track. If the end
of the rod strikes the table do not change the height ad¬
justment of the saw. Instead, lower the front right side
of the table by turning the upper nut on the suspension
stud up a few turns. You should now be able to push the
front right corner of the table down so the rod indicator
can pass over the surface without striking it.
7. Adjust the suspension stud nuts so the top of the table
on the front right side just touches the end of the anti-
kickback rod the same as the back. Tighten the nuts by
hand.
8. Release base clamp handle and swing the arm to the
left until 30° is indicated on the miter scale. Tighten
base clamp handle and check the height. If it is incor¬
rect, adjust the same as before. Do not change motor
height. Push the saw back and adjust the rear left side
of the table. Hand tighten adjusting nuts.
9. Replace kickback to its proper position.
Incidentally, you do not have to start the table adjust¬
ment with the right rear bolt. You can start with any one
of the bolts, if you find it more convenient. When check¬
ing any adjustments arm must always be locked in base.

ADJUSTING FOR SQUARE CROSS CUT
Install blade (See Page 4 for installation instruc¬
tions). Now you are ready to adjust the arm to be 90®
to the fence. You will notice the saw locates at 90®
when the tapered pin falls into the slotted hole on the
left side of the base. This is a spring loaded pin which
passes through (2) holes in the post The holes are
held to a close tolerance at the factory but they must
be large enough to enable the pin to be pulled out
without binding. If you locate the arm at 90® or 45®
you will be able to move the end of the arm to the
right and left about 1/2". This is due to the clearance
of the holes in the arm. In order to locate in the same
place each time, the hole clearance is taken up by
pushing the arm to the right until it stops. Lock the
base by pushing back on the base clamp. Make it a
habit of always locating the arm at 90* or the (2) 45*
locations by appro%hing the position from the left,
letting the pin fall in place and bear on the arm slight¬
ly to the right until it stops moving, and you always
have accurate cuts. As of now this does not mean the
arm is 90® to the fence. Checkit as follows:
1. Put the fence in its normal position, with the blade
in front of it and about 1/32* above the table.
2. Place a carpenter’s square against the fence on
the left side of the blade and against the blade
itself, not the guard. Raise the lower guard out of
the way.
3. Hold the square with your left hand and pull the
saw forward (Fig. A3). If the arm is 90® the blade
will stay against the square as you pull it out. If the
arm is too far to the right, the blade will move away
from the square. If it is too far to the left, it will
push the square to the left. In either case correc¬
tion is easy.
4. Since the nuts which hold the table to the frame
are not tight, you can shift the entire table in rela¬
tion to the arm by tapping the table corners with
your hand or lightly with a hammer (Fig. A4).
5. When table is located so the'fence is 90® to the
arm, tighten the adjusting nuts on the suspension
studs carefully so as not to change the adjustment
you just made.
a. ) Tighten the bottom nuts only. This will draw
the table down only slightly but the same
amount on each stud.
b. ) Prevent shifting by taking up on the first nut a
little and then proceed to the next taking it up
a little also.
c. ) After all (4) nuts are snug, take up on the first
again a little more and repeat on all the other
nuts
d. ) The third time around you should be able to
take them up tight without any shifting.
MAKING MITER ADJUSTMENT
When the arm is 90® to the table, set the miter scale
by loosening its set screw and turning the scale to
read0®. Tighten the set screw carefully making it just
tight enough to prevent the scale from turning (Fig.
A5). Once the saw has been set for 90®, it should be
automatically set for 45®; right and left.
Fig. A5
10

MAKING MITER ADJUSTMENT (continued)
These settings have been carefully made at the fac¬
tory. However, after many years of use, metal to
metal wear may cause a slight misalignment. Correct
as follows:
1. Using the scale on the miter gauge move the
arm to the 45° miter position. Let the pin fall in
place and bear on the arm slightly to the right
until it stops moving.
2. Loosen the nut on the adjustable miter locator
and pivot the arm so the 45° mark lines up with
the white mark on the base (Fig. A6).
3. Lock the locator by tightening the nut.
View As Seen From
Inside Yoke
ADJUSTING SAW BLADE PERPENDICUUR
TO TABLE TOP
Align the blade to be 90° to the table as follows:
1. Loosen the bevel lock knob and locate the saw
to the 0° position as far as it will go.
2. Look in back of the bevel knob (the inside of the
front of the yoke) and you will see a steel plate
with (2) curved slots. The bolt to the bevel lock
knob passes through the upper slot. A cast
protrusion (called a boss) rides in the lower
slot. This boss, moving to the ends of the slot,
precisely locates the blade at 90° or 45° to the
table. See Fig. A7.
Raise the lower guard and place your combina¬
tion square on the table against a flat portion of
the blade Fig. A8. If the blade is not 90°, loosen
the screw that holds the bevel pointer and also
loosen the bevel lock knob. Shift the saw until
the blade is 90°.
The boss should be against the end of the slot of
the steel locator plate. If it is not, move the plate
by hand until it is.
Lock the bevel knob.
Set bevel pointer to read 0° and tighten its screw
11

Fig. A9
Fig. AlO
ADJUSTING CROSS-CUT TRAVEL PARALLEL TO ARM TRACKS (HEEL ADJUSTMENT)
This is the last immediate adjustment and it is to
make certain the blade is parallel to the arm tracks
and also that it is parallel to the fence when you are
ripping. Adjust as follows:
1. Move saw to front of fence and lock elevating wing
nut
2. Loosen the (2) screws which hold the locator pin
assembly several turns (Fig. A9).
3. Loosen the yoke clamp handle.
4. Set the blade perpendicular to the fence (with the
lower guard raised) by using a combination square
as shown in Fig. AlO.
5. Lock the yoke clamp handle.
6. Tighten the screws securely.
The blade is now in correct adjustment Keep in mind
the arm must be 90* to the fence before you make
this adjustment otherwise, you will adjust to a false
condition. A simple method of checking this adjust¬
ment is to rotate the saw to the in-rip position and
check to see if the blade is parallel to the fence. (Fig.
A12). (Be sure to raise the guard again before .pull¬
ing the saw from the fence). If it is not, before read¬
justing, go back and check the crosscut adjustment.
Then readjust.
LONG TERM ADJUSTMENTS.1. ROLLER HEAD ADJUSTMENT
The first, and most important, is the roller assembly on which the
saw mo¥es forward and bacli. This roller head as^mbly has two
graved plates which straddle the ball bearings. Two set screws
on the roller head can push the plates tighter against these bear¬
ings. To adjust these set screwy remove two (2) screws in top of
aver and lift aver of. If the roller head is not tight enough the
ball retainer assembly gets out of phase with the carriage. This
will prevent the saw from returning all the way behind the fence
or prevent it from making a full crosscut If this happens, pull the
saw toward the front bumper with a hard tug several times until
the carriage hits the front bumper.
12

CAtJTlOW: Tightin both stt screws an even amount in order to
keep the roHerhead snugly fastened to the arm. If the adjustment
is tm tight it will be difficult to pull the saw back and forth. In
that case, back off on the screws a little, but iwt too micf^ The
amount of drag should ^ sufficient so that the roller head does
not get out of phase, that is it should strike back bumper- when
pushed completely tock and strike front bumper when pulled
OTuplitily forward. After- making this adjustment' c heck to see if
blade is to the table top. Replace cover by lining up holes in
with holes In the rais«J sections of the ball retainer
assembly. Replace screws and tighten murely (Fig.' A13).
Fig. A13
2. YOKE CLAMP HANDLE
The purpose of this handle is to provide a friction lock between
the upper face of the yoke and the bottom face of the
rollerhead. It should also eliminate any play between these two
parts. To lock, the handle is pushed back from the hand grip of
the yoke. If at any time it is possible to move this handle so that
it strikes the back part of the carriage it is not in proper ad¬
justment. Its proper position when locked is approximately
90® or less to the hand grip of the yoke.
To adjust ( Fig A14) :
L Loosen the yoke lock lever by pulling it toward you.
2. B ack off the screw located directly above the yoke locator pin
assembly several turns, this will release lock on the large
li^kwasher. Using a screwdriver in the large slot on the op¬
posite side of the carriage, turn the large lock washer one, two
or three notches. Turn clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise
toloo^n. (Each notch gives 15® rotation).
. DO NOT MAKE IT TIGHT.
. 3. Tighten ^rew into a new notch in the large lock washer and
tighten yoke lock lever. The yoke lever should now be properly
positioned.
Fig. A14
3. ELEVATION ADJUSTMENT
CAUTION: If motor tends to move down when wing nut is loose
adjustment needs tightening
If the saw is too tight or too loose when elevating it is out of ad*
justment.
To Adjust < Fig A15):
1. Remove wing nut and cupped washer from elevating shaft
adjacent to guard.
2. With right hand holding elevating knob, tighten or loosen nut
with wrench as shown.
3. After adjustment saw must elevate easily with minimum
motor play. Motm^ must not drop when wing nut is Imm ai^ .
must not be ewiy moveable without turning elevation knob.
4. When saw elevation is satisfactory, replace cupped washer
and tighten wing nut
13

ALIGNMENT GUIDE FOR ACCURATE CUTTING
It is important to realize that an improperly adjusted saw just will not yield the accurate cuts desired. If the
machine seems to cut inaccurately, its adjustments and alignments should be checked.
The following guide is listed for your convenience. However, changing one adjustment will affect another, so it is
best to perform all of the alignment procedures when correcting any one problem.
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE.
1. Saw will not make a
square cross cut or a
good 45® miter cut.
Arm is not perpendicular to guide
fence.
Arm not indexed to the fight.
Too much play between arm and base.
5. Saw blade or Dado blades
tend to push lumber to
one side when cross cut¬
ting.
Saw blade is heeling.
Arm too loose in base.
Roller head too loose on arm.
Roller head too loose on arm.
Yoke too loose when clamped to
roller head.
Yoke too loose when clamped to
roller head.
Fence not straight
Saw dust between lumber and guide
fence.
Dull blade or cutters.
*
Table not parallel with arm. 6.
Cut depth varies from
one end of stock to the
other.
Table top not parallel with arm.
Guide fence not straight
Arm too loose in base.
2. Lumber has a tendency
to walk away from fence
when ripping or plough¬
ing.
3. Saw stalls when ripping
or ploughing.
Saw blade is not parallel with fence.
(Heel Adjustment)
Arm not perpendicular to guide fence.
7. 45® bevel cut not accu¬
rate.
Saw blade not perpendicular to table
top.
Dull blade or cutters.
Arm too loose in base.
Fence not straight
Roller head too loose in arm.
Feed rate too fast.
Wrong type blade.
Yoke too loose when clamped to
roller head.
Arm too loose in base.
Bevel clamp knob loose.
Koiier head too loose on arm.
Table top not parallel with arm.
Yoke loose when clamped to roller
head.
8. Saw tends to advance
over lumber too fast
Roller head not properly adjusted.
Saw dust between lumber and fence.
Dull blade.
4. Saw blade scores lumber,
not giving a good finished
cut.
Saw blade is heeling.
Arm too loose in base
Not feeding saw properly.
9. Saw do6S not traver^p
Rnllpr hp/iri nnt nrnnpriu
smoothly in tracks.
•\uiiwi itcciu liui {jiupUiiy QUjyoicu*
Dirty tracks.
■
Roller head loose in arm.
Yoke too loose when clamped to
roller head.
Bent or dull blade.
Bad bearings.
0. Miter scale not accurate
at various miter angles.
Scale pointer not properly adjusted.
- Not
feeding saw properly.
Using improper blade for finish cut
desired.
1
1. Clamping force not suffi¬
cient at miter angles
other than 45°
Base clamp out of adjustment
14

PRECUTTING (KERFING) THE WORK SURFACE
READ RULES FOR OPERATION ON PAGES 7 AND 8 BEFORE STARTING MOTOR
In cutting through material placed on the saw table the bot¬
tom of the saw blade should project to about 1/16" below
the bottom of the material being cut. This causes it to cut
into the table top, making kerf marks, unless kerfs already
exist for the particular cut being made.
This section of the manual will cover the advance, or pre¬
cutting, of kerfs. This advance kerfing will facilitate your
future cutting operations and blade position adjustments. As
you continue to use the saw you will no doubt be cutting
additional kerfs in the table, different ones from the normal
pre-cut ones covered here. For this reason, you may want to
cover the front section of table top with a piece of 1/4"
plywood which can be replaced when the kerfs become too
numerous. (Instructions for attaching 1/4" plywood are at
the end of this section of the manual).
KERF No. 1 (FIgum Kl)
Figure K1
With motor “OFF”, aim in crosscut position (0“), blade verti¬
cal (0®), and the saw elevated to its highest position, push
the saw to the rear of the arm behind the fence. Turn motor
“ON”, yjosen the wing nut which locks the elevation. Grasp
operating handle to hold saw back, and use elevating knob
to lower the roteting blade until it cuts about 1/16" deep in
the table surface.<* Tighten wing nut CAUTION—Saw will
haw a tendency to move toward you due to the “climbing”
action of the rotating blade—you must hold it back. Begin
moving the saw s^i^f toward you until you get the feel of
the cutting action. Continue pulling saw toward you, cutting
through the fence and making the kerf line until the saw
reaches Its limit of travel in the .arm.
♦ If you have covered the front part of the table with 1/4"
plywood, a loose piece of 1/4" plyvood can be “C”*
clamped behind the fence so as to extend under the blade
and enable you to judge the 1/16" deep cut for the front
of the table.
KERF No. 2 (Figure K2)
Flfuro m
DO NOT MAKE THIS KERF IF YOU HAVE COVERED THE
FRONT SECTION OF THE TABLE WITH PLYWOOD.
Kerf No. 1 is for normal 0® crosscutting, and when you re¬
turn the saw behind the fence, the blade remains 1/16"
deep in the table top. Therefore, to swing the arm right or
left, you would have to elevate the blade. This elevating be¬
comes unnecessary when you cut a curved trough in the table
too behind the fence as follows:
Be sure the saw is all the way back on the arm. If it Is not
push the motor back with a few hard taps. This will bring
the roller head in phase with the cover. Make sure the blade
is about 1/16" deep in the kerf you have just cut iMck ttie
Rip Lock and turn the saw “ON”. Pull the Miter Locator Pin
with your right hand and start the arm moving to the right
with your left hand. Release pin and continue moving the arm
slowly to the right until the Locator Pin stops it at the 45®
miter position. The side of the blade will cut a curved trough.
CAUTION: If the blade does not cut easily, it may be set too
d^p. Turn the motor “OFF”, elevate saw slighty and begin
again.
You can cut this trough to the left as well as the right if you
wish, but most of your miter cuts, left hand or right hand,
can be done on the right as explained later in this manual.
KERF No. 3
Set saw blade depth as you did for kerf no. 1. With the blade
behind the fence, swing the arm right to the 45® miter posi¬
tion. Let the pin fall in place and bear on the arm slightly
to the right, lock base clamp. Turn saw “ON” and pull it out
to the end of the arm, cutting through the fence and making
the 45® miter kerf. This kerf may also be made in the left
hand miter position.
15

NOTEi The depth of kerfs Nos. 1 & 3 should be the same for
their entire lengths. If they are not the table needs adjust¬
ment. If the grooves are deeper in front the front of the
table is too high. If the miter kerf is deeper than the cross¬
cut kerf the table is too high on the right—assuming both
cuts were made at the same saw elevation. If adjustment is
needed, refer back to Table Adjustment in the Alignment
section of this manual.
KERF No. 4 (Figure - K4)
Figure IC4
Figured
The blade is now parallel to the fence, and with the motor
still running, loosen the Rip Lock, lock the Yoke Clamp Han¬
dle, and push the saw slowy—cutting a trough—toward
and just up to the fence (Figure K5B), The front guard must
be rais^ to do this. Pull up on the tab as shown in Figure
K5C. Turn the motor “OFF''.
With the motor “OFF”, arm jn crosscut position (0®), blade set
for a 4§® bevel, and the saw elevated to its highest position, push
the saw to the r^r of the arm behind the fence. Turn the saw
“ON” and set the blade cutting depth to about 1/16'’ the same
way you did for kerf Na 1. Be sure elevating knob is tight Pull the
saw toward you cutting through the fence and making the kerf
line until the saw reaches the end of the arm.
KERF No. 5
This kerf enables you to quickly convert from crosscutting to rip¬
ping operations. First, bring the saw out to end of the arm in the
position shown in Figure K5, with the blade depth locked at about
1/16" deep in the crosscut kerf. Tighten the Rip Lock and release
the Yoke Clamp Lever. Turn the motor “ON”, press in the Yoke
Locator Pin Handle and rotate the yoke clockwise 90®, cutting a
1/4-circle groove in the table (Figure K5A). (The Yoke Locator
Pin Handle should be released after yoke rotation is started so
that it can automatically stop the yoke at 90®).
Figure K5B

Moving the saw back through the trough and 1/4-circle
kerfs, bring the saw again to the position at the end of the
arm as shown in Figure K5. Tighten Rip Lock and release
Yoke Clamp Handia Turn motor "ON" and temporarily
press the Yoke Locator Pin Handle as you start to rotate
the yoke counterclockwise (Figure K5D). Continue
rotating until the Locator Pin stops the yoka after a 1/4-
circle cut, with the blade parallel to the fence. Now, with
the motor still running—lock the Yoke Clamp Handle,
Loosen the Rip Lock, and again slowly push the saw
toward the fenca completing the rip trough kerf. Turn
motor "OFF".
You have now cut into the work surface all basic, impor¬
tant kerf marks
y4" PLYWOOD
If you elect to cover your table top with 1/4" plywood, only
cover it from the fence forward as it is unnecessary to cover
the back board. Oo not use masonite for a cover as It Is too
abrasive and will dull the blade too fast
The pt^^3od must be snug to the work table over its entire
surface. Any warps or bumps will affect the accuracy of your
cuts, particularly dado cuts. If you use brads for fastening,
do not place them where the basic kerf marks will be made
—if the blade hits a brad it wiU need sharpening at once.
Figure K5D
ON TABLE TOP
The brads should be spaced about 5" apart over the entire
surface.
Don't use glue as you will not be able to properly remove
the plywood cover for replacement. If you use rubber cement,
the top may be difficult to remove, but any solvent (lacquer
thinner, acetone, etc.) will soften the rubber and the top will
come off. Two-sided masking tape around the edges will also
hold the top on. It is recommended that you use either rubber
cement or masking tape.
17

SAWING-BASIC CUTS
CROSSCUTTING
CAUTION
ALWAYS WEAR PROTEC¬
TIVE GOGGLES.
WEAR DUST MASK IF
OPERATION IS DUSTY.
Rpirt Si
In cfoss-cultifig yQu always pull the saw toward yourself
and across tfie matenal wfiicfi is held stationaiy against the
fence. Never feed rtiaterlal Into the saw when cross-cuttingi
and n^er cut when pushing the saw away from youroelf.
With the motor “OFP% and the blade at 90® to the fence and
perpendicular to the table, push the saw to the back of the
arm behind the fence. Place the piece to be cut against the
fence. Hold it firmly with four fingero on die top surface and
the thumb tucked under the palm and against the edge facing
you. Keep hand well away from the line of cud
Turn the motor “ON’*. Grasp the saw handle firmly and puli
the saw toward you until the piece is completely cut through,
but not so far that the rear of the blade comes out of the cut
in the material (Figure SI). This will prevent the loose piece
from getting behind the blade and Interfering with your
returning the saw to the rear of the arm, which should always
be done after each crosscut is completed. Turn the motor
“OFF*.
This basic cut is also called a “climb cut“ because the
rotation of the blade tends to hold the piece downward
against the table and against the fence ... the saw wants to
*‘clifnb“over the piece but is held firmly down by the saw arm.
When making a cut, if the saw tends to move toward you
faster than the blade can cut (possibly jamming in the wood),
-^Ih^-rollerhead-^'^maf'.need adjustment, -as explained- earlier in
this manual. Also jamming mm te by ^pulling die saw
Mrou^ die mt rapidly. If saw slwuld jam turn mottir off
immediately. Check the tightness of the roller head; if loose
readjust, following the Instructions on pages 10 and 11.
Limg Cross Cuts (Figure S2). With the fence In Its normal
position the length of the basic cross cut is about IQYz"* To
cross cut wide lumber, fli^ make this 10^^" cut and turn the
motor “OFF”. Move the fence all the way back as shown in
Figure S2. Slide the wood back agaln^ the fence keeping the
blade centered in the cut you have ju^ made.- Turn the
motor “ON” and eMend-the 10-^^" -cut as n^ed or to the
outward limit of saw travel in the arm. iy turning the wood
ISO®, and repeating the above,cuts up to about 3S^ long can
be made.
Fipire SSt
MITER CUTS
1. With the motor “OFF”, loosen base clamp handle, position the
saw arm 45® to the right with the blade in back of the fence.
Let the pin fall in place and bear on the arm slightly to the
right Tighten base clamp handle.
2. Place material to 1^ cut against the fence.
3. Turn tl^ “ON”. Pull saw forward (Figure S3) only the
distance necessary to cut through the material, and then
return saw to back of fence Turn motor “OFF”.
4. If a longer miter cut is needed, move the fence back behind
the spacer board. (Figure S2). Place the piece being cut
against the fence with the blade centered in the cut previous¬
ly made with the fence in normal position. Turn motor “ON”
and pull saw forward the distance needed to complete the cut
Return saw to rear of arm and turn motor “OFF”.
Fipiro S3
18

MITER CUTS (continued)
For mouldin® frames, if yoy waot t© “compound'' (miter af
bevel) the cut, bevel the two 90® edges of the plywood at tt
angle to which you want the frame to pitch. Make the cu
as before, but hold the moulding flush against the beveli
edge of the plywood.
For maximum length miter cuts with the arm in the LEF
HAND miter position, it is suggested that you rip two ^/4 thk
strips (one 2 ' * wide, one 5Vs" wide) to replace the rear tab
board as shown in Figure S7. The fence can then be locati
as in Figure SB, when needed for longer left hand miter cut
Right and left hand miter cuts for corners* or frames are best
made with a* simple miter jig. With this jig the saw arm can
remain in the 45® right miter position for cutting both
opposing 45® angles. FIRST, place the piece to be cut
against the fence and then “C-clamp a piece of plywood,
with at least one accurate 90® corner, in the position shown
in Figure S4. Make the cut The opposite miter is cut by using
the edge of the plywood as a fence, see Figures S5 and S6.
Jig.to beporolltl to fence
Figure S7
Figure
BEVEL CROSSCUTS
With the motor “OFF” and the blade perpendicular to the tab
elevate the saw to its highest position and tilt the blade to tl
desired bevel angle. (If the blade strikis the table, refer back
Table Adjustment and lower the table). Lock the bevel lock m
push saw behind the fence Turn the motor “ON” and lower tl
blade until it cuts about 1/16" deep in the table top. Lock tl
elevation. Pull the saw forward, cutting a clearance keif throui
the fence and into the table top. Return saw to back of fence ai
turn motor “OFF”. Pre-cut not necessary if bevel is 45® as it w
cut with kerf cuts.
Hold the material to be cut against the fence with one hai
placed well away from the line of blade travel. Turn motor “Of
and pull the saw through the cut only as far as necessary to c
through the material (Figure S9). Return saw behind fence ar
turn motor “OFF”.
Jig to poroilei to fence
NOTE: If it ever becomes necessary to manually raise tf
rear metal guard, TURN MOTOR “OFF", and press down c
either of the two lift tabs “A" in the above illustratioi

COMPOUND (BEVEL-MITER) CUTS
Figure SIO
Th# pmcMmm for matong a compoynd cut is the same as
for a bwel crasscut eiccepi that the arm is moved to the
right or left frem 0® to any desired miter angle up to 45*.
The bevel angle of the blade is also adjustable from 0* to
45*. ^ Rgure SIO.
A popular setting for picture frames is a 30® bevel and a 35*
miter, or a 35® bevel and a 30* miter. These combinations
of 30* and 35* give and interesting pitch to the frame.
RIPPING
Use extension guard for blade-eiwi anti>kickback device in all rip¬
ping operations
When ripping, the lumber is fed into the blade, and the first con¬
tact with the blbde is the opposite blade edge from that first con¬
tacted in crosscutting. Ripping is a “feed" cut, while crosscutting
is a “climb" cut With the fence In its normal location, use the “IN-
RIP" position (Figure Sll) for cuts up to 7* wide. Use the “OUT-
RIP" position (Figure S12) for cuts up to 12-1/4* wide. The fence
can be moved to the back of the table for rips up to a maximum of
20* in the “OUT-RIP" position.
To set up for ripping, with the motor “OFF”, rotate the saw into
the in-rip or out-rip position as desired. Let the Index pin fall in
place. Tighten the yoke clamp handle. (Always feed material from
the end of the movable guard extension—never feed from the
end with the operating handle and the anti-kickback device.
Remember to raise the front, lower blade guard to clear rip fence
if needed). Lower the blade until the teeth fit into the dished kerf
previously cut. Move the saw on the arm and lock the rip-lock
when the distance from blade to fence equals the width wanted.
Lower the guard extension until it is about 1/8* above the
material being cut (Figure Sll). Lower the anti-kickbad^
assembly so that the fingers hang about 1/8* below the top sur¬
face of the material to be cut. To test slide the material under the
anti-kickback fingers—try pulling material in opposite direction
The anti-kickback fingers should grab it; if not readjust assembly
until they do. Remove the material.
^UTIIINs WEVii FEED MATERIAL FROM THE SIDE
m WHICH ANTI-ICICKiACIC DE¥ICE IS
LOOTED.
Turn motor "ON" and feed the material under the guard
extension, holding one side of the material snug against the
fence. Feed the material evenly into the blade—not too fast
—give the blade a chance to cut If you do not have plenty
of room between the blade and the fence to push the material
completely through the cut, use a pusher stick—Figure S13.
Flpira S12 (Out-Hp position)
BEVEL RIPPING
The procedure for bevel ripping is the same as for straight (0®)
ripping except that the blade is set at an angle between 0® and
45 * (Figure S13). Set and t^ the airtl-kickt^k device the same
as in RIPPING even though only one of the fingers will take the
main “bite", if needed. Remember to raise the front, lower blade
guard to clear rip fence if ne^wied.
Flpii« S13