Dillenger Street Legal Electric Bike Kit User manual
CONVERSION KIT
Please read through carefully before beginning your conversion
User Manual
Dillenger Street Legal Electric Bike Kit -
Samsung Power
English
2
SAFETY
PLEASE NOTE
Mechanical Safety Check:
Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform
a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inated
within the range given on the tyre sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.
Your First Ride:
Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new electric bike.
We highly recommend the purchase of the Dillenger hub motor
conversion kit. It will make your installation and ongoing maintenance
much easier. This can be purchased online.
Thank you for purchasing your new Dillenger conversion kit! We know you’ll love it, and with
some care it should last for a very long time. Please read through this manual carefully before
operating the kit.
THANK YOU
3
ITEM CHECK LIST
Each conversion kit is tested for quality control before shipping to a customer. Before converting
your bike, it’s a good idea to lay each of the components out to visiualise how they will come
together on your bicycle.
●Before you begin your conversion, it can be helpful to lay everything out rst and make sure
all the parts are there.
●Something missing? Double check the box, even under the aps. Those small parts can be
sneaky. If you still can’t nd it let us know and we’ll assist you ASAP.
Note: The motor wheel depicted in the following pictures is of a slightly dierent model. This will
not eect the assembly instructions given. (The only dierence is the colour of the hub and some
minor features)
Motor wheel
Handle Bar Controls
Battery, Cradle and Keys
RPAS
Charger
Cables
4
Contents
Item check list 3
Install overview 5
Installation process 6
Wheel Install 7
Battery Cradle Installation 8
Handlebar Controls 9
Display 9
Display Continued... 10
Thumb Throttle 11
E-Brake Sensors 12
Removable Pedal Assist Sensor (RPAS) 13
RPAS Continued... 14
Wiring Install 14
Tidy Up 15
Battery Operation 16
Charging 17
Maintenance and Care 18
Trouble Shooting 19
Trouble Shooting Continued... 20
Specications 23
Contact us 24
5
INSTALL OVERVIEW
Remove Contents
Take your components out of the box. Remove the
protective packaging. Keep track of all the parts that you
remove from the box. – Remove the battery and put it
on charge.
1.
Installation
Once you have your bike ready for installation, the rst
step (after transferring your rim take, tube and tyre) is
to install the wheel and secure the axle nuts. Take note
of the order or the washers so that you can replicate
this when installing onto the forks. Then move on to the
battery cradle and handlebar controls.
3.
Ride!
Once the battery is fully charged, lock it into its cradle,
turn it on and you’re now ready to go!
5.
Prepare you bike
Make sure you have measured your dropout slots
(approx. 10mm) and the clearance between your
dropouts (approx. 100mm for front forks). Remove your
current wheel, remove the tyre, tube, rim tape and also
your handlebar grips, shifters.
2.
Tidy Up
After you have installed all of the components needed to
control each part of the kit, it’s now time to tidy up the
wiring harness and make your conversion look nice and
neat.
4.
6
INSTALLATION PROCESS
Before beginning your conversion, there are
a couple things you can do that will make
the installation more ecient. Remove your
handlebar controls such as your brakes,
shifters and grips. Remove your front wheel
and install your existing tube, tyre and rim tap
(recommended) onto the new electric wheel.
The rst step in any conversion is installing
the wheel. The easiest way to take o your
front wheel is to turn your bike upside down
so that your bike rests on the handlebars,
and the seat. Your seat height may need to
be adjusted to ensure the bike will be stable,
when upside down.
Take o your disk brake caliper from the
forks, or release your V-brakes if you have
not done so already. For disk brake users, it’s
much easier to t the motor wheel with the
caliper removed.
For disk brake users:
The disk brake rotor installs onto the side of
the motor hub just like a regular hub. You will
need to use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply
loosen them, install your disk rotor and then
tighten the bolts as shown.
Max 5Nm (40 lbs) tightening torque. If you
overtightened these bolts, you may risk
stripping the hub which is not covered by
warranty.
The only other thing that you may need to
trial is the use of the white plastic disk brake
spacer that each hub comes with. This is
rarely needed as your rotor should line up
to your caliper quite closely, however it’s
sometimes needed to achieve the required
oset. There will usually be sucient
adjustment in your caliper to line the rotor up
correctly.
You will need loosen the axle nuts on your new
electric wheel. This will allow the axle to slot
into your dropouts.
The distance between your dropouts should be
around approx. 100mm. Your forks will stretch
in and out a certain amount without causing
any structural issues. The dropout axle slots
should be approx. 10mm however you may
need to le o a thin layer of paint for the axle
to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to
be a very tight t, so don’t stress if you need
to remove a small amount of material, this is
normal.
The cable that exists the hub should sit on the
right side of your bike, (when sitting on your
bike). Otherwise you’re going to go backwards!
With your bike upside down, your wheel should
be pushed all the way down into the dropouts
to make sure it’s a nice and tight t. One torque
washer should be tted against the hub, on the
side of the forks (on each side) and then one at
washer on the outside. With these in place you
can then tighten the axle nuts using a spanner
or adjustable wrench. Make sure you have the
right size as to protect the nuts from being
stripped. Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350
in lbs).
For torque arm users:
First step in installing your torque arm is to
connect the two arms with the supplied bolt
and locknut. The slotted arm will t over the
axle, just outside of the fork. The hoseclamp
supplied then anchors the arm to the fork.
Torque is force (perpendicular) multiplied by
distance. To get the most out of the torque arm,
the lever needs to be at max distance, which is
when both arms are at an approximate right
angle (pic). This will eciently transmit the
torque away from your dropouts.
7
Wheel Install
You will need loosen the axle nuts on your new
electric wheel. This will allow the axle to slot
into your dropouts.
The distance between your dropouts should be
around approx. 100mm. Your forks will stretch
in and out a certain amount without causing
any structural issues. The dropout axle slots
should be approx. 10mm however you may
need to le o a thin layer of paint for the axle
to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to
be a very tight t, so don’t stress if you need
to remove a small amount of material, this is
normal.
The cable that exists the hub should sit on the
right side of your bike, (when sitting on your
bike). Otherwise you’re going to go backwards!
With your bike upside down, your wheel should
be pushed all the way down into the dropouts
to make sure it’s a nice and tight t. One torque
washer should be tted against the hub, on the
side of the forks (on each side) and then one at
washer on the outside. With these in place you
can then tighten the axle nuts using a spanner
or adjustable wrench. Make sure you have the
right size as to protect the nuts from being
stripped. Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350
in lbs).
For torque arm users:
First step in installing your torque arm is to
connect the two arms with the supplied bolt
and locknut. The slotted arm will t over the
axle, just outside of the fork. The hoseclamp
supplied then anchors the arm to the fork.
Torque is force (perpendicular) multiplied by
distance. To get the most out of the torque arm,
the lever needs to be at max distance, which is
when both arms are at an approximate right
angle (pic). This will eciently transmit the
torque away from your dropouts.
The battery installation starts with mounting
the battery cradle. This is what your
battery will attach to and it’s also where the
controller is housed.
The most common way to install the battery
is by using the drink bottle holder mounts
on your frame. Simply remove your drink
bottle holder, (if you have one) and you’re
ready to install the battery cradle.
You will be able to tell where your cradle
will t best by simply holding the cradle
up against your frame. You will have a few
dierent height options however keep in
mind you need room above the cradle to
maneuver the battery in and out. You can
secure the cradle by using your existing
bolts/screws and tighten as shown.
Be careful not to over tighten your bolts/
screws as drink bottle mounts and threads
are only ‘nutserts’. If installed correctly the
battery and cradle should feel very secure
and not bounce over bumps.
If drink bottle mounts aren’t an option, there
are plenty of battery attachment options
other than the method above, such as:
1. Install the battery on a rear rack (contact
Dillenger for this option).
2. Use large hose clamps or heavy-duty
fasteners to secure the battery cradle on the
downtube (not recommended).
3. Drill through holes in your frame and
use high tensile steel bolts and lock nuts to
attach the cradle. If done correctly, this is a
very solid option and you will only need to
spend $2 on fasteners.
The cradle should always be secure and rigid
to avoid any vibrations or movement of the
battery.
8
Battery Cradle Installation
9
Handlebar Controls
Display
With the motor, battery, and cradle
mounted, it’s time to move on to the
easy part.
Firstly remove the packaging from the
Display, Thumb Throttle and E-Brake
Sensor kit.
Your handlebars should be just
about bare, ready to accept your new
controls.
The rst step in installing the display
involves attaching the bracket as shown in
the adjacent images. The display attaches
to your handlebars using a dual clamp
bracket.
This will arrive in two pieces and will be
screwed together using the provided
fasteners. Not all handlebars are the same
diameter, so there’s a couple dierent sized
rubber bushes provided.
Once you have the bracket connected to
the display screen, you can mount it to your
handlebars using the provided bolts and
captive nuts, which face upwards towards
the rider.
The angle of the display can depend on the
rider style or the shape of the handle bars.
10
Display Continued...
Be careful not to over tighten these fasteners as they are secured by plastic.
Once you have the display mounted you can t the satellite keypad (thumb controls). This is a
small module with three buttons to control the display. Up/Down and MODE (on/o). You can
download the manual for this separately.
11
Thumb Throttle Install
Start by putting the brake lever
back on and tightening it in place.
Next, slide the thumb throttle onto
your handlebars, usually the right
side, however it is up to personal
preference which side the throttle
goes. Move the throttle to the inside
of the handlebars and tighten it
in place so it butts up against the
throttle.
Once you have the throttle secured,
make sure the cable is not fouling the
brake lever, otherwise readjust.
Before sliding the grip handle onto
the handlebars, make sure you insert
the small plastic bush (you can see
this in the third photo on this page).
This prevents the grip from rubbing
against the throttle.
At this point your handlebar
installation is completed and
you should have everything in a
comfortable position.
For users in states or territories
that require no hand throttle to
be used, (pedal assist only), you
can pass this step and leave the
throttle absent. Please move onto
the RPAS installation process.
PLEASE NOTE
12
E-Brakes Sensors Install
This kit comes standard with E-Brake
Sensors which are a nifty little
invention that enables you to use your
existing brake levers. This solves a
common issue from previous systems
that required the replacement of
the brake levers which is more time
consuming and also problematic if you
have hydraulic brakes or integrated
gear shifters.
In this series of photos, we have
shown the installation of the magnetic
square and the sensor on the top
surface of the brake lever. This is
purely for visualisation purposes. The
sensors/magnets can also be installed
underneath the brake levers so they
are hidden, making for a sleeker look.
The magnetic square and the sensor
should be installed so that when the
brake lever is realeased, they contact
each other.
When you pull on the lever to brake,
the sensor will register the proximity
change and activate the e-brake cut
o. This means that when you use
your brakes, the pedal assistance will
stop.
Cable ties can be added to the sensor
for added rigidity.
If you prefer not to add the e-brake
sensors, the system will still
function without them. For throttle
installations, e-brake cut o is not
necessary. For installations with pedal
assist, it is highly recommended (and
mandatory in some states).
13
Removable Pedal Assist Sensor (RPAS)
The purpose of the pedal assist sensor is to generate a signal from the rotation of
the crank that the controller processes to know that you’re pedaling and want some
power!
How does this work? Magnets on the disk generate a changing magnetic eld or a
‘hall eect’ and this is picked up by the hall eect sensor which transmits a signal
to the controller. The pedal assist is the primary function of an electric bike and the
level of assistance is adjustable on the handlebar LCD.
1. The sensor will need to line up very closely (under 5mm) to the RPAS disk.
2. Be sure to have the “working side” text facing the sensor. The RPAS is directional,
so when you pedal backwards, the motor won’t engage (that would be dangerous
and annoying!)
3. With the two halves of the disk mated together you can mount the silver circlip
onto the disk, without jamming your ngers in the process (ideal, but not always
possible).
4. When tting the hall eect cadence sensor, the adhesive section is only there to
hold it in place while you secure the sensor with cable ties provided.
Normally this step would involve the
removal of the crank which can be
quite complicated. Thanks to Dillenger’s
innovative RPAS, this step is now a
breeze!
To begin, have a look at the black
plastic magnet wheel and the way the
two halves join together. When you
snap them together on the crank axle,
(on your bike) you will then need to
t the steel circlip around the outside
groove.
14
RPAS Continued...
Depending on the style of crank axle
you have, you may need to modify
the black plastic wheel and remove
some of the internal ‘vanes’ of
plastic.
You may be required to carefully
remove a portion of the vanes if
required. This would be done with a
sharp pair of scissors or side-cutters.
The level of assistance you receive is
controlled by your handle bar display
buttons, which we already tted with
the display, (up and down buttons).
Wiring Install
The wiring now has to be connected up
so that everyhting has power and can
function correctly.
All the wires are colour coded so it is
simply a matter of connecting the same
coloured wire ends together.
1. The rst wire to connect is the main
wire connecting from the rear wheel to
the controller. This wire has 9 pins at
the end of it. At the end of the wires are
arrows, align the arrows and then insert
the pins.
2. Then wire the RPAS sensor to the
controller. These wires are colour coded
yellow.
15
Tidy Up
In the nal stage of the installation,
it’s time to tidy up the wires and make
everything look nice and neat.
In the adjacent images, you can see the
provided zip/cable ties being used to
bundle and secure the cables coming
from the base of the battery, RPAS
and anything else leading up to the
handlebars.
Wiring Install Continued
3. Now connect the Wiring Loom to the
controller. These wires are colour coded
with a black end plug.
4. The yellow plug from the wiring loom
goes to the throttle.
5. The two red plugs from the wiring loom
go to the E-Brake sensors.
6. Lastly the green plug from the wiring
loom joins with the wire coming from the
Display monitor.
16
Battery Operation
PLEASE NOTE
Even with the battery locked in and turned o, the bike should be locked
using a high quality bike lock.
The battery used in this conversion kit is very
sleek in design and also very functional.
The way it attaches to its cradle, (which also
houses the controller) is by sliding the battery
down onto the cradle and locking it into place.
This may take a couple attempts at getting it
right however once in place it makes for a very
secure tting that won’t rattle around during
use (a common problem with other systems).
With the battery mounted to the cradle, you
can now use the key to lock the battery in
place. The key is only used for the locking
function, it doesn’t turn the battery on or o,
in fact when riding it’s best you remove the
key and store it safely to avoid hitting it with
you knee (or worse, loosing it). Take one of the
keys o the key chain before you’re nished
and store it in a safe place. The keys are coded
so if you loose both you will have to ship your
battery back to Dillenger to have the barrel
replaced (not ideal!).
This battery comes with a USB port, which
can be used to charge your mobile phone or
anything else similar.
The battery should never be ridden without
being locked into the cradle. It should also
never be dropped or treated roughly.
If you’re battery is returned to us and has
signs of being dropped, this will void the
warranty.
Charging the battery:
1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/outlet,
just like a laptop of mobile phone charger.
2. Check that one of the charger indicator
lights glows green
3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into the
battery carefully, making sure it is all the way
in. Do not force it if there is an obstruction.
4. The charger indicator lights should glow red
whilst charging.
5. Once the charger indicator lights change to
1 red and 1 green, the battery is fully charged.
There is no way to over-charge the battery.
When it is full, the charger will stop charging
the battery automatically.
Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if
fully empty.
The battery should be charged once every
month as a minimum to maintain healthy
cells.
The best way to charge your battery is to plug
it in after every use, and leave it on charge
until the indicator light shows the battery is
fully charged. It is not good practice to only
half or partially charge the battery.
17
Charging
PLEASE NOTE
Only charge the batteries with the specied charger. Using a dierent
charger could damage your battery.
Charging the battery:
1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/outlet,
just like a laptop of mobile phone charger.
2. Check that one of the charger indicator
lights glows green
3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into the
battery carefully, making sure it is all the way
in. Do not force it if there is an obstruction.
4. The charger indicator lights should glow red
whilst charging.
5. Once the charger indicator lights change to
1 red and 1 green, the battery is fully charged.
There is no way to over-charge the battery.
When it is full, the charger will stop charging
the battery automatically.
Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if
fully empty.
The battery should be charged once every
month as a minimum to maintain healthy
cells.
The best way to charge your battery is to plug
it in after every use, and leave it on charge
until the indicator light shows the battery is
fully charged. It is not good practice to only
half or partially charge the battery.
18
Maintenance and Care
PLEASE NOTE
Any modications to your conversion kit that aren’t part of this manual
will void your warranty.
Keep your bike clean! There’s nothing worse than having to work on a dirty bike...
Also keep in mind the usual bike maintenance like tyre pressures, brake pads, etc...
The motor in this kit is a sealed unit and requires no maintenance during its design life.
Lastly (just to reiterate) it’s important that you charge the battery at least once every month
to ensure the battery maintains a safe storage level.
A little extra maintenance is required over
and above a normal bicycle.
One of the main things you may come across
is that your spokes need to be tightened
more often than a non-electric wheel. Our
wheels use 12G and 13G stainless steel
spokes which handle the load and torque
of these motors very well, but are more
susceptible to coming loose.
A spoke-tightening tool such as the one
including in the Dillenger hub motor
conversion toolkit, is ideal.
Check the tightness of each spoke ideally
after the rst 100km and then every 500km.
As well as caring for your spoke tension
it’s important to do a check on all of your
fasteners every few months. It never hurts to
go over your bike with tools, tightening and
checking everything that can be checked. This
will ensure you have a safe and well-serviced
bike.
19
Trouble Shooting
Fault Solution
Display turns on, but
motor does not
Activate
Check the motor plug from the controller. This is a very sti
connection and will not work unless the plug is all the way in to
the indicator line. The twisting of the handlebars can sometimes
cause the plug to pull out slightly if there is not enough slack in
the motor cable.
Motor runs backwards Remove the motor from the forks and switch the direction.
Motor feels like it has
something caught
inside or some kind of
brake on inside
Remove the disk brake bolts completely and see if this remedies
the issue. If the disk brake bolts are too long, they will go too far
into the housing and fowl against the internals.
A high pitched rattling
noise can be heard
when accelerating
The vibration of the motor is very small, but at this frequency it
can do some odd things to the other components on the bike
if they are loose. For example a loose spoke or even a bolt on
your rear rack. If something is just a little bit loose, sometimes
this can reverberate and make a harsh high pitch rattling sound.
Nothing is broken or wrong, you just have to identify the loose
part!
Rim has a buckle or
spokes coming loose
all the time
We would recommend a competent wheel builder to x any
major spoke tension issues, however there are some really good
youtube tutorials on how to adjust spoke tension.
Spokes has snapped
or missing
Dillenger stocks spare spokes for very reasonable prices, just
check out our spares section online and you can nd the right
type and length for your kit.
Dillenger’s troubleshooting advice will take you through a logical way to diagnose
any issues that may arise during installation and use.
Before commencing troubleshooting, disconnect all components. Do not short
cut this process. There are countless times a loose plug has caused grief. By
disconnecting all the plugs and then reconnecting just the crucial components, this
will solve any loose plug issue.
Go through one by one plugging in the other components (such as the PAS or the
e-brake handles) to see if any of these are the cause of the problem. In this basic
state you may discover the culprit quickly.
20
Trouble Shooting Continued...
Fault Solution
Motor does not t in
fork dropout axle slots
If you are not comfortable in removing a small amount of mate-
rial from your dropout axle slots, then the only alternative may
be to buy some new forks. This is not covered under warranty
because Dillenger is not the manufacturer of your forks. Fortu-
nately headtubes are made to a consistent standard and alterna-
tive forks are both readily available and reasonably priced!
Motor does not t
within the 100mm
dropout width
Unfortunately there are always going to be rare cases when a
manufacturer of a bike has decided to be dierent. If this is the
case and there is not enough reasonable ‘ex’ in the forks to
spread them wide enough to accept the motor wheel, you’re
going to have to buy new forks.
Disk brake bolts foul
against the inside of
the fork
If you’re not running disk brakes, you don’t need the bolts so
just remove them. If you are running disk brakes, you will have
to use some additional washers to ‘space’ the motor over to the
non-disk brake side to achieve clearance.
Wiring to a part of the
kit is not long enough
For this problem we stock a wiring extension kit which can be
purchased online. This is usually recommended for rear rack
versions of this kit.
Disk brake bolts won’t
tighten
You may require some longer bolts, but be careful they are not
too long and foul against the internals of the motor.
Handlebar too
crowded
If for instance you have integrated shifters, you might nd that
with the throttle and shifter on the right side, you have run out
of room. If you can’t manage to shue everything around to
make room, you may prefer to opt for a thumb throttle, which is
available for purchase from Dillenger online.
I have hydraulic
brakes, or integrated
shifters and brakes
If the e-brakes provided are not ideal, either you can elect not to
use e-brake handles (the kit will still function) or you purchase
from Dillenger e-brake cut-o sensors which can mount to your
existing brake handles, no matter what kind.
I don’t want to use
PAS, or don’t want to
use throttle
The controller is congured so you can run both the pedal as-
sist sensor, and the throttle, or one or the other. If installed, the
throttle will always act as an override.
Display won’t turn
on, unless the battery
charger is plugged in
Check all the connections, make sure the battery is charged. If
the display turns on only when the battery charger is plugged in,
you will have to submit a service ticked with this information.
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