6
INSTALLATION PROCESS
Before beginning your conversion, there are
a couple things you can do that will make
the installation more ecient. Remove your
handlebar controls such as your brakes,
shifters and grips. Remove your front wheel
and install your existing tube, tyre and rim tap
(recommended) onto the new electric wheel.
The rst step in any conversion is installing
the wheel. The easiest way to take o your
front wheel is to turn your bike upside down
so that your bike rests on the handlebars,
and the seat. Your seat height may need to
be adjusted to ensure the bike will be stable,
when upside down.
Take o your disk brake caliper from the
forks, or release your V-brakes if you have
not done so already. For disk brake users, it’s
much easier to t the motor wheel with the
caliper removed.
For disk brake users:
The disk brake rotor installs onto the side of
the motor hub just like a regular hub. You will
need to use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply
loosen them, install your disk rotor and then
tighten the bolts as shown.
Max 5Nm (40 lbs) tightening torque. If you
overtightened these bolts, you may risk
stripping the hub which is not covered by
warranty.
The only other thing that you may need to
trial is the use of the white plastic disk brake
spacer that each hub comes with. This is
rarely needed as your rotor should line up
to your caliper quite closely, however it’s
sometimes needed to achieve the required
oset. There will usually be sucient
adjustment in your caliper to line the rotor up
correctly.
You will need loosen the axle nuts on your new
electric wheel. This will allow the axle to slot
into your dropouts.
The distance between your dropouts should be
around approx. 100mm. Your forks will stretch
in and out a certain amount without causing
any structural issues. The dropout axle slots
should be approx. 10mm however you may
need to le o a thin layer of paint for the axle
to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to
be a very tight t, so don’t stress if you need
to remove a small amount of material, this is
normal.
The cable that exists the hub should sit on the
right side of your bike, (when sitting on your
bike). Otherwise you’re going to go backwards!
With your bike upside down, your wheel should
be pushed all the way down into the dropouts
to make sure it’s a nice and tight t. One torque
washer should be tted against the hub, on the
side of the forks (on each side) and then one at
washer on the outside. With these in place you
can then tighten the axle nuts using a spanner
or adjustable wrench. Make sure you have the
right size as to protect the nuts from being
stripped. Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350
in lbs).
For torque arm users:
First step in installing your torque arm is to
connect the two arms with the supplied bolt
and locknut. The slotted arm will t over the
axle, just outside of the fork. The hoseclamp
supplied then anchors the arm to the fork.
Torque is force (perpendicular) multiplied by
distance. To get the most out of the torque arm,
the lever needs to be at max distance, which is
when both arms are at an approximate right
angle (pic). This will eciently transmit the
torque away from your dropouts.
