Dynaflite DYFA3030 User manual

FLYBP03 for DYFA3030 Printed in USA
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL FIRST. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OFTHIS MODEL.
Entire Contents © Copyright 1997
Instruction Manual
• REALISTIC FUN SCALE MODEL
• HUGE, 84” WINGSPAN (IMAA Legal)
• 1/4 SCALE MODEL • BUILDS QUICKLY
WARRANTY
Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no
case shall Dynaflite's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control over the
final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using
the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If you are not prepared to accept
the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit immediately in new and unused
condition to the place of purchase.
™
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Introduction........................................................2
Precautions.........................................................3
Preparations.......................................................4
Required Items ..................................................4
Optional Items ..................................................4
Suggested Supplies ...........................................4
Building Notes ..................................................5
Types of Wood..................................................5
Metric Conversions............................................5
Die Patterns ...................................................6&7
Build the Tail Group ............................................8
Build the Fin......................................................8
Build the Rudder................................................8
Build the Stabilizer ............................................9
Build the Elevators.............................................9
Build the Wing....................................................9
Join the Wing Halves.......................................14
Build the Ailerons............................................16
Build the Fuselage.............................................16
Final Assembly .................................................20
Finishing ..........................................................24
Set the Control Throws......................................25
Balance the Model............................................26
Preflight ...........................................................26
At Home..........................................................26
At The Flying Site .............................................26
Engine Safety Precautions .................................27
Flight................................................................27
Find a Safe Place to Fly.....................................27
Takeoff................................................Back Cover
Flying .................................................Back Cover
Landing...............................................Back Cover
Congratulations on your choice of this kit for your
next project. The Fly Baby is a Fun Scale™model of
a true classic aircraft. It has the presence that only a
big model can carry off. The full scale Fly Baby was
actually derived from a model aircraft. This kit is a
model of that full scale aircraft.
The Dynaflite Fly Baby was designed to allow the
modeler a wide selection of power plants from a .75
two stroke to a 25 cc gas engine. With an airplane
this large and a power plant selection this broad,
there are a few problems that may come up. If you
use a light .75 two stroke you will need to add
weight to the nose. A .91 4 stroke will balance very
closely. With a gas motor like the US Engines 25cc
you will need to add weight in the tail.
At Dynaflite we take pride in offering kits that are
simple and straightforward to build and provide
value for your modeling dollar. Because of the size
and cost of this model, we assume you have built
several models and have a general working
knowledge of modeling and its terms.
If you HAVE NOT built and flown several kits, do
yourself a favor - back up and get some experience
before beginning this kit.
Please inventory and inspect all parts carefully
before starting to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective or if you have any questions
about building or flying this model, please call us at
[phone] and we'll be glad to help. If you are
calling for replacement parts, please look up the
part numbers and have them ready when calling.
INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS
2

3
Your Fly Baby is not a toy, but a sophisticated working
model that functions like a full-size airplane. Because
of its performance, if you do not assemble and
operate the Fly Baby correctly, you could possibly
injure yourself or spectators and damage property. To
make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, we recommend that you get assistance
with assembly and your first flights from an
experienced, knowledgeable modeler. You'll learn
faster and avoid risk to your model before you're
truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the country. We recommend
you join the AMA which will provide you with
insurance coverage at AMA club sites and events.
AMA Membership is required at chartered club
fields where qualified flight instructors are available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
[phone]
Fax [phone]
1. You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from the photos or plan. In those instances the text
should be taken as correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. You must install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates properly on the ground and
in the air.
4. You must test the operation of the model before the
first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment operates correctly. You must also make
certain that the model has remained structurally sound.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you assemble it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance
of your completed model and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.
PRECAUTIONS
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS...
FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT
SAFETY PRECAUTION

These are the items “not included“ with your kit; you
will need to purchase them separately. Items in
parentheses (GPMQ4107) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
shops and are listed for your ordering convenience.
GPM is the Great Planes®brand, TOP is the Top
Flite®brand and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.
❏ 4 channel radio with 6 servos
(5 high torque to be IMAA legal)
❏ Engine - .75 to .90 2-stroke
.91 to 1.20 4-stroke or 25cc gas
❏ Engine mount and mounting hardware
❏ 16 oz. Fuel tank, 2 or 4-stroke (GPMQ4107)
❏ 20 oz. Fuel tank, gas (DUBQ0220)
❏ Gas stopper (DUBQ0675)
❏ Standard fuel tubing, 2 or 4-stroke (GPMQ4131)
❏ Tygon fuel tubing, gas (AERQ2125)
❏ (2) 4-1/2" Main wheels (DUBQ0846)
❏ (1) 1-1/2" Tail wheel (GPMQ4243)
❏ (4) 1/4" Wheel collars (DUBQ1200)
❏ (2) 3/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4302)
❏ Coverite™Fabric covering – Main color one
15’ roll – Trim colors one 6’ roll per color
❏ Paint for fuelproofing and engine cowl
❏ (1) 1/4 Scale pilot (DGAQ2110)
❏ 1/4" Latex Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000)
❏ (2) 12" Servo extension wires (ailerons)
❏ (2) ‘Y’ Connectors (ailerons, elevators)
❏ (2) 24" Servo extension wires (gas only)
❏ Cockpit and Accessory Kit (DYFQ8110)
We recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy
❏ 4 oz. Thin CA Adhesive - (GPMR6004)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA Adhesive (GPMR6010)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA Adhesive - (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator - (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Applicator Tips - (HCAR3780)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy - (GPMR6047)
❏ 4 oz. Aliphatic Resin Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ 4 oz. Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Microballoon Filler (TOPR1090)
❏ J & Z Products RC/56 Canopy Glue
(JOZR5007)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building model airplanes. Great Planes
makes a complete range of Easy-Touch™Bar Sanders
and replaceable Easy-Touch adhesive-backed
sandpaper. For future reference, here's a list of
Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and adhesive-backed
sandpaper:
5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)
Adhesive-backed 12' roll of:
80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)
Use 320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding.
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES
OPTIONAL ITEMS
REQUIRED ITEMS
PREPARATIONS
4

5
• When you see the term “cut and fit” in the
instructions, it means you should first position the
part on the assembly without using any glue.
Slightly modify or shape the part as necessary
for the best fit.
•Whenever just “epoxy” is called for, you may
use
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy.
When 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute
epoxy because you will need either the working
time or the additional strength.
•During construction you will be using a number of
balsa sticks to frame various assemblies. Ample
material is included but you should study the plans,
then make an effort to cut the longest pieces you
will need first. Label the pieces for later reference
as you cut them. By doing this now, you won’t have
to splice pieces together later.
• Do not throw away any leftover material until
after you have completed your model. Some
small pieces of leftover balsa or plywood are
used during construction.
•This kit is built with three types of glue.
Cyanoacrylate - CA glues cure almost instantly
and are moderately strong. There are three
common types used: thin, medium and thick.
Thin cures the fastest but will not span gaps
between parts. Medium and thick are used
where parts do not fit perfectly. CA glue does not
bond well to most plywoods and hardwoods. CA
glues are also brittle.
Aliphatic Resin - Resin glues require that parts be
pinned or clamped together while the glue
dries–typically 15 - 30 minutes. Resin glues
are very strong and work well with balsa
and plywoods.
Epoxy - 6-minute epoxy cures the fastest; it sets
within six minutes but is not fully cured for one
hour or more. 30-minute epoxy is the strongest
as it allows the epoxy to soak into the wood
thoroughly. While it sets within 30 minutes, it is
not fully cured for two or more hours.
Throughout the assembly of this model, THIN CA
should be used unless the step calls for another
type of adhesive. If your parts do not fit well,
substitute MEDIUM or THICK CA.
BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
METRIC CONVERSIONS
TYPES OF WOOD
BUILDING NOTES
1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm
1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

6
DIE-PATTERNS

7
DIE-PATTERNS

❏1. Place the fin and rudder plan on your work
surface and cover it with wax paper.
❏2. From the 3/8"x 15/16"x 36" balsa stick cut,
fit and glue the fin TE and fin upper bottom piece
(shaded area on plan).
❏3. From a 3/8"x 5/8"x 30" balsa stick cut, fit
and glue the fin lower bottom piece (shaded area
on plans).
❏4. From a 3/8"x 5/8"x 30" balsa stick cut, fit
and glue the fin LE.
❏5. From a 1/8" x 3/8" x 24" balsa stick cut, fit
and glue the fin ribs in place.
NOTE: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and TE
well. It is not important that each rib fit the exact
location shown on the plan.
❏6. Use leftover 3/8" x 15/16" balsa to cut and
glue the gusset between the Fin LE and Fin Bottom.
❏7. Sand both sides of the fin flat. Radius the LE as
shown on the plan.
❏1. Laminate the two 1/8" die-cut rudder TE1
pieces together. Do the same for the TE2 pieces.
Glue the TE1 and TE2 pieces together over the plan.
After they are dry remove them from the plan.
❏2. Laminate three 1/8" die-cut rudder base
pieces together.
❏3. Pin three 1/16" balsa shims in place over
the plans.
❏4. From a 3/8"x 5/8"x 30" balsa stick, cut and
pin the rudder leading edge in place. Glue the
rudder base to the LE.
❏5. Making sure to keep the TE against the 1/16"
shims, glue it to the rudder base and the LE.
❏6. From the remainder of the 1/8"x 3/8"x 24"
balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the rudder ribs in place.
NOTE: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and TE
well. It is not important that each rib fit the exact
location shown on the plan.
❏7. From the 3/8"x 3/8"x 24" balsa stick, fit and
glue the three hinge blocks in place.
❏8. Sand this assembly to the airfoil shown in the
cross section on the plan.
BUILD THE RUDDER
BUILD THE FIN
BUILD THE TAIL GROUP
8

❏1. Place the stab and elevator plan on your work
surface and cover it with wax paper.
❏2. From the 3/8"x 5/8"x 36" balsa stick, cut and
glue the stab TE and sub TE together. Pin it in place
on the plan.
❏3. From the remainder of the 3/8" x 15/16" balsa
stick used for the fin, make two stab center pieces.
Glue them in place making sure to use two 3/8"
shims so that the fin bottom will fit into the stab center.
❏4. From a 3/8"x 5/8"x 30" balsa stick, cut and
glue the stab LE in place.
❏5. Using a leftover piece of 3/8"x 15/16" balsa
stick, fit and glue the stab tip gussets in place.
❏6. From a 1/8"x 3/8"x 24" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the stab ribs in place.
NOTE: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and TE
well. It is not important that each rib fit the exact
location shown on the plan.
❏7. Using the remainder of the 3/8"x 3/8" balsa
stick, cut and glue the hinge blocks in place.
❏8. Sand both sides of the stab flat. Radius the LE
as shown on the plan.
❏1. Laminate two of the 1/8" die-cut balsa elevator
trailing edge pieces together for each elevator.
❏❏2. From a 3/8"x 5/8"x 30" balsa stick, cut the
elevator leading edge and also the root end of the
elevator. Glue these pieces together over the plan.
❏❏3. Holding the laminated TE down on the
1/16" balsa shims, glue it to the TE and root.
❏❏4. From a 1/8"x 3/8"x 24" balsa stick, cut,
fit and glue the elevator ribs in place.
NOTE: It is important that the ribs fit the LE and TE
well. It is not important that each rib fit the exact
location shown on the plan.
❏❏5. From the remainder of the 3/8" x 3/8"
balsa stick, cut and glue the hinge blocks into place.
❏❏6. Sand this assembly to the airfoil shown in
the cross section on the plan.
NOTE: This is a semi symmetrical wing. Make sure
you mark the top of the ribs so that you get them all
correctly positioned.
❏1. Remove the ribs from the die sheets. Mark the
top of the ribs with a pen.
BUILD THE WING
BUILD THE ELEVATORSBUILD THE STABILIZER
9

❏2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W1D and W2D
doublers to four W3 ribs with 6-minute epoxy as
shown in the photo.
NOTE: The W1D landing gear notch is deeper than
the notch in W2D.
❏❏3. Cover the left wing plan with wax paper.
Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood bottom spar
into place. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" balsa building
jig into place with the 1/4" side against the plan.
NOTE: In the following steps pin the rear of each rib
to the 1/4" x 3/8" building jig as they are glued to
the spar.
❏❏4. Glue the center rib into place using the
dihedral gauge to set the angle. Make sure the W1D
doubler is toward the tip of the wing.
❏❏5. Glue the rib with the W2D rib doubler onto
the bottom spar. Make sure the W2D doubler is
toward the root of the wing.
❏❏6. Glue the remaining W3 and W4 ribs to the
spar keeping them 90 degrees to the work surface
and aligned over the ribs on the plans.
NOTE: Do not glue ribs W5 and W6 at this time.
❏❏7. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood top
spar into place.
❏❏8. From a sheet of 3/32" x 4" x 36" balsa cut
and glue the shear webs into place.
IMPORTANT: Do not put shear webs between ribs
W1 and W2 or between W2 and the first W3 on
the front of the spars.
❏❏9. Fit together but do not glue W5, W6,
WTR1, and WTR2
❏❏10. Cut and pin two 1/2" shims and one
3/4" shim in place.
❏❏11. Trim the top and bottom spars even with
the tip side of W5.
10

11
❏❏12. Glue WTR1 and W5 to the spars keeping
WTR1 down against the 1/2" shim. It will be
necessary to squeeze and hold the spars together
until the glue cures.
❏❏13. Glue WTR1 to rib W6 and WTR2 to ribs
W4, W5 and W6, making sure to keep the wing tip
down against the shims.
❏❏14. Cut a 18-5/8" long piece from a 1/4" x
3/4" x 24" balsa stick and glue it to the last W3 rib,
W4 ribs and the W5 rib. Keep rib W5 centered on
the TE.
❏❏15. Sand the TE to the shape shown on the
plan. Remove the wing from the building surface to
shape the bottom of the TE.
❏❏16. Pin the wing back onto the plan.
❏❏17. Fit and glue the 3/32" x 1/2" x 36"
balsa TE spar sheeting onto the bottom of the ribs
from W1 to W5.
❏❏18. Cut, fit and glue the 3/32" x 15/16" x
36" balsa TE sheeting onto the bottom of the TE of
the ribs from rib W1 to the last W3.
NOTE: The sheeting extends 3/8" past the rear of
the ribs.
❏❏19. From the 3/32" x 3/4" x 36" balsa
sheet, cut, fit and glue the TE spar webs in place.
Make sure to keep the top of the webs flush with the
top of the ribs.
NOTE: The grain of the webs is horizontal.
❏❏20. Cut the wing bolt filler block from
1/2" x 2" x 6" balsa stock. Glue it between W1
and W2. Sand the block so that it is flush with the
tops of the ribs.

12
❏❏21. Fit and glue the 3/32" x 1/2" x 36" balsa
TE spar sheeting onto the top of the ribs and the rear
webs from rib W1 to rib W5 using medium CA.
❏❏22. Taper the lower TE sheeting to the contour
of the top of the ribs. Fit and glue the
3/32" x 15/16" x 36" balsa TE sheeting onto the
top of the TE of the ribs from ribs W1 to the last W3
using medium CA.
❏❏23. Fit and glue a 1/8" x 1/2" x 36" LE edge
stick onto the front of the ribs. Fit and glue a second
1/8" x 1/2" x 36" balsa LE stick onto the first.
❏❏24. Sand the top of the LE to match the airfoil
shape of the ribs.
❏❏25. Glue the 3/32" x 3" x 36" LE sheeting
onto the spar, ribs and leading edge using medium
CA. Sand the tip edge flush with the tip side of W5
and the root flush with W1.
❏❏26. Using a 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet,
glue the center sheeting from the W1 rib to the first
W3 rib.
❏❏27. From 3/32" x 3/8" x 30" balsa sticks, fit
and glue the cap strips to the tops of ribs W3 to W5.
Do not cap strip rib W6.
❏❏28. Do not laminate WT2 or WT3 together.
Glue the 3/32" die-cut balsa WT2 to WT3 over the
plans. Make two of these for each wing tip.
❏❏29. Laminate two of the 3/32" die-cut balsa
WT1's. Make one of these for each wing tip.

13
❏❏30. Fit and glue the laminated WT1 to the
center of rib W5 and in the notches of W6 and
WTR1.
❏❏31. Fit and glue one of the rear wing tip
pieces WT2 and WT3 that you glued together in
step 28 to the bottom of ribs W5, W6, WTR2, and
to the bottom lamination of WT1.
❏❏32. Fit and glue the top rear wing tip pieces
WT2 and WT3 in place. Pinch them together along
the outside edge.
❏❏33. From a 3/32" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick,
cut, fit and glue the cap strips to rib W6 and WTR1
between ribs W5 and W6.
❏❏34. Unpin the wing from the building board.
Cut slots 1/16" wide in front of and behind the
spars in rib W1. Being careful not to damage the
sheeting, make a 1/16" wide slot in front of the
spars in rib W2.
❏❏35. Sand the spars, LE, TE and sheeting flush
with root rib W1.

14
❏❏36. Glue the 1/8" die-cut ply dowel support
in place to the back of the leading edge between
ribs W1 and W2. Sand the top of the LE to the
airfoil shape of the ribs.
Return to step 3 and build the right wing panel.
Use the other half of the wing plan. Remember -
build a right and left wing panel.
❏1. Mark a centerline on both the forward and aft
dihedral braces. Trial fit the dihedral braces into
each wing half and make adjustments if needed.
❏2. Make a block to support the wing halves while
they are being joined. A balsa or pine block 2-1/4"
high works well.
❏3. Without using any glue, join the wing halves
with the dihedral braces. Place the wing on the
support block upside down. The tops of the W5 ribs
should just touch the building board. Make
adjustments as necessary.
NOTE: The dihedral angle is 3-1/2 degrees for each
wing half, but this is not at all critical. It is, however,
important that the joint at the root ribs fits well and
that the dihedral braces are solidly joined.
❏4. Cover your building board with wax paper.
Coat the dihedral braces, root ribs and spars with
30-minute epoxy wherever they will touch each
other. Fit the wing halves together and securely
clamp the dihedral braces to the spars. Place the
wing on the support block and make any final
adjustments. Have a cup of coffee while you wait for
the epoxy to cure.
❏5. Glue the 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa Bottom LE
Sheeting onto the spar, ribs and leading edge using
medium CA or Aliphatic Resin. The photo shows just
one side being sheeted but you will be sheeting both
sides of your joined wing. Place the wing back on
the support block while the glue dries and check that
it is straight.
JOIN THE WING HALVES

15
❏6. Use two 21" x 4" pieces of paper to roll into
paper tubes. Slip these into the holes in the wing ribs
to form a conduit for the servo wires.
❏❏7. Make two 2-3/4" long servo rail supports
from the die-cut 1/8" x 1/2" x 11" ply strips. Make
two 3-5/8" long servo rails from a 1/4" x 3/8" x
36" basswood stick. Glue the rails and supports
where shown on the plan with the rails spaced as
needed to fit your servo. Mount the servo to the rails
with the screws included with your servo.
❏❏8. Sheet the area around the servo using
leftover 3/32" balsa so the covering has something
to adhere to. Support the sheeting on the bottom
with strips of 3/32" balsa.
Repeat the above two steps for the second wing
half.
❏9. Glue the hardwood landing gear block into
place with 6-minute epoxy.
❏10. Cut 1/8" holes through the top wing sheeting
from the bottom side, directly above the servo lead
tubes. From the top of the wing enlarge the holes in
the sheeting to 1/2" diameter centering the holes
above the paper tubes. Cut matching 1/2" holes in
the servo lead tubes.
❏11. Use a 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet to cut, fit
and glue the center sheeting between ribs W1 and the
first W3 on both wing halves. Cut a 3/4" wide strip in
the sheeting above the landing gear block from the
root rib to the end of the landing gear block.
❏12. Using the 3/4" strip, as well as leftover
3/32" sheeting, cut and glue filler strips to the
landing gear block so that the strips will be level with
the center sheeting. Cut a grove in these strips for the
3/16" landing gear wire.
❏13. From the 3/32" x 3/8" x 30" balsa sticks,
cut, fit and glue the cap strips to the tops of ribs W3
to W6 and the wing tip pieces as you did on the top
of the wing.
❏14. Sand the LE to the shape shown on plan.
Rough sand the rest of the wing.
❏15. Reinforce the wing center joint using 3"
fiberglass tape and epoxy. Apply the fiberglass to
the top and bottom of the wing.

16
❏❏1. Shape the LE of the aileron from a 1/4" x
3/4" x 24" balsa stick using the TE of the wing as a
guide. Shape the aileron LE to the shape of the TE of
the wing without the 3/32" sheeting on it.
❏❏❏❏2. Cut the aileron LE sheeting from a
piece of 3/32" x 1/2" x 24" balsa. Do the same with
the TE from the remainder of the piece of 3/32" x
15/16" x 36". Pin and glue these pieces together over
the plan. Using the leftover pieces of cap strip from the
wing, fit and glue cap strips in place on the aileron.
This is a good time to build the other 3 aileron
frames using the same steps.
❏❏3. Glue the LE piece you made in step one on
the frame work. You will have to unpin the tip end of
the frame work and glue it up against the LE. Glue
the ribs in position on the cap strips.
NOTE: Rib W5A is too small to die-cut to the correct
length. Cut it to length before gluing it in position.
❏❏4. Fit and glue the hinge blocks in place using
leftover 1/4" x 3/4" balsa.
❏❏5. Glue the frame made in step 2, to the
top of the aileron, aligning the TE of the frames to
each other.
❏❏6. Remove the aileron from the plan.
❏❏7. Sand the assembly to the airfoil shown in
the cross section on the plan.
❏8. Build the other aileron by repeating steps 3-7.
NOTE: Before beginning construction of the fuselage
you should determine where you will mount the servos.
There are cutouts for mounting the servos in the
fuselage bottom deck and the rear of the fuselage
sides. If you are installing a gas engine you should
mount the servos in the rear of the fuselage to improve
the balance. The cutouts in the bottom deck can be
used if you are installing a lighter 2-stroke or 4-stroke
engine. Punch out the locations you plan to use and
glue the other cutouts that you will not use into place.
❏1. Place the fuselage plan on your building board
and cover it with wax paper.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
BUILD THE AILERONS

17
❏2. Glue F2D to F2 with medium CA.
❏3. Laminate the three F1 firewalls with 30-minute epoxy.
❏4. Lay the 1/8" die-cut right fuselage side over the
plan. Mark the location of formers IP, F5, F5A, and F7
on the inside of the right fuse side. Place the left
fuselage side above the right side as shown in the
photo and transfer the marks to the top of the left side.
NOTE: There are notches in the fuselage sides to
locate formers F2, F3, F4 and F6.
❏5. Locate the two 1/8" x 1/2" x 42" balsa top
longerons. Glue one to the inside of the left fuse side
along the top edge beginning 3/8" back from the
front. Cut the longeron at the notch for the stabilizer
and glue the remainder of the 1/8" x 1/2" stick
along the stab cutout. Glue the other longeron to the
inside of right fuse side beginning 19/32" back
from the front.
❏6. Glue the two 1/8" die-cut balsa wing saddle
doublers to the inside of the fuselage sides. Align
them with the wing saddle.
❏7. Locate the two 1/8" x 1/2" x 24" balsa
bottom longerons. Glue one to the inside of the left
fuse side along the bottom edge, aligning it at the aft
edge of the wing saddle doubler. Glue the other to
the inside of the right fuse side.
❏8. Glue formers F2 and F3 to the inside of the left
fuse side. Use a triangle to insure that the formers
are perpendicular to the fuse side.
❏9. Fit the right fuse side to F2 and F3, sighting across
the top of both sides to align them. When satisfied with
the alignment, glue the right fuse side in place.

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❏10. Slip the 1/8" die-cut ply fuselage bottom deck
through F2 and F3 at a diagonal and rotate into
place, but do not glue.
NOTE: The bottom deck is used to set the right thrust
for the engine. The shorter side of the bottom deck
must be along the right fuselage side. When
satisfied with the fit, glue the bottom deck to F2, F3
and the fuse sides.
❏11. Fit the laminated ply firewall F1 into place. The
firewall should fit tightly against the bottom deck and
the two upper longerons. The front of the left fuselage
side should be even with the front face of the firewall.
The right fuselage side should extend about 1/4" past
the firewall. When satisfied with the fit glue the
firewall into position with 30-minute epoxy.
❏12. From the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood stick,
cut and glue doublers in place behind the firewall
using 30-minute epoxy. After the epoxy has cured you
may want to pin the firewall to the fuselage with small
dowels or toothpicks for additional security. Drill
several small holes through the sides and into the
firewall. Glue toothpicks into these holes with epoxy.
❏13. Trim the right fuselage side flush with
the firewall.
IMPORTANT: During the following three steps place
the fuselage over the top view of the plan to aid in
keeping the fuselage straight and square.
❏14. Place the triangular tail wheel bracket
between the rear of the fuse sides and pull the fuse
together. You may have to trim and sand the
longerons for a good fit. The notch in the bracket
extends from the bottom of the fuselage. After
checking to make sure the fuse is straight and
square, glue the tail wheel bracket into place. Cut
shims from the 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" balsa stick and
glue them into place as shown on the plan.
❏15. Glue formers F5 and F5A together. Using the
notches in the fuse sides and the marks you made

19
earlier, glue formers F4, F5, F6 and F7 into place.
Check to insure that the fuselage remains straight
and square.
❏16. Note the angle of the instrument panel on
the plan and glue it into place.
❏17. Use the 3/32" x 3" x 36" balsa sheet to
sheet across the fuselage bottom from the wing
saddle to the tail. Sheet around the tail wheel
bracket as shown in the photo. Trim the sheeting
flush with the sides of the fuselage.
❏18. Using the remainder of the 1/4" x 3/8" x
36" balsa stick, glue the top stringer between F1, F2
and the instrument panel. Sand it flush with the front
of F1 and the rear of the instrument panel.
❏19. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" top stringer between
F3 and F5A, sanding it flush with the front of F3.
❏20. Now is a good time to install the control
pushrods of your choice.
❏21. Using the 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets, sheet
the front top of the fuselage as shown in the photo.
NOTE: You can trim the cockpit opening now or at
step 23.
❏22. Sheet the top of the fuselage rear from the
center of the cockpit to F5A.
❏23. Trim the sheeting flush with F1 and F5A. Use
the cockpit cutout pattern on the plan to cut the
cockpit opening.
❏24. Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" basswood stringers
into position between F5 and F7.
❏25. Glue the 1/4" x 1" x 4" ply wing mount blocks
into place, one on each side of the fuselage, with

30-minute epoxy. Glue some doublers to the blocks and
fuselage sides using leftover 1/4" x 3/8" basswood.
❏26. Two 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks are
included with the kit. If desired, these can be glued to
the flat fuselage sides as stringers so that the covering
will give the fuselage a more rounded appearance.
❏27. Sand the fuselage and set aside.
Before mounting the stab to the fuselage you should
first carve the stab to fin fairing blocks.
❏1. The photo above shows some shim blocks that
have been tack glued into position. The lower shims
are from the leftover 3/8" x 15/16" stick used for
the fin post. The top shim can be cut from the leftover
3/8" x 15/16" stick. These shim blocks will properly
space the fairing blocks.
❏2. Locate the two 3/4" x 1" x 8" tail fairing
blocks. Tack glue them into position on the shims and
carve the assembly to shape. When you are satisfied
with your work, remove the fairing blocks and shims
from the fuselage. Clean up the stab mounting area.
Before gluing the stab and fin to the fuselage you
should first mount the wing to the fuselage. This will
allow you to more accurately align the tail section.
❏3. Fit the wing to the wing saddle in the fuselage.
Lightly sand the saddle if needed for a good fit.
❏4. Center the wing and mark the location for the
dowels on former F2. While carefully holding the
wing in position, drill 1/4" holes through F2 and
into the wing leading edge. Remove the wing and
finish drilling the 1/4" holes into the wing. The holes
should extend into the front ply dihedral brace.
❏5. Put the dowels into the wing and fit the wing
back onto the fuselage. Make any adjustments
needed to get the dowels to fit properly in the holes
in former F2. When satisfied with the fit, glue the
dowels into the wing with 6-minute epoxy. Use
caution not to get any epoxy on the fuselage.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
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