Elna Cl.11 User manual

Greetings,

As

the user

of

an

ELNA

you have chosen one

of

the

world's

finest

precision-made sewing ma-

chines. It offers you new dimensions

of

home

sewing:

satisfaction-simplicity-versatility.

Depend upon the easy-to-follow

instructions

in

this booklet

to

use properly and care

for

your

wonderful

ELNA.

When you have become well

acquainted with your machine, you can save time

and money by referring

to

the handy index

of

general subjects on page 2.

I am

the

ELNA

elf, inviting you

first

of

all

to

go

through

the

booklet with

me-page

by page.

Follow me closely and find

that

home sewing can

be relaxing and

pleasurable-not

hard

work-also

that

a good understanding

of

these

instructions

can eliminate costly service calls as

time

goes on.

Ready-let's go...

0

Contents

and

Useful

Hints

Preparing

your

ELNA

• Giving

your

machine

the

care

it

deserves,

is

yourguarantee

of

perfect performance.

• Even

the

best sewing machine will

not

sew properly with a needle

of

poor

quality.

Choose

needles

of

first-class

quality, system130/705 H

or

the

American

style 15 x 1.

• Needle and thread

must

be adapted

to

the

kind

of

work

to

be done.

3-10

Straight

Sewing

11

• Universal

tension

12

Sewing

with

ELNA

Zig

Zag

and

some

examples

of

practical

sewing

15-19

• Tapered

stitch

width 15

• Centering

the

needle 15

Additional

sewing

with

ELNA

Special

and

some

examples

of

practical

sewing

21-24

•

First

familiarize

yourself

with

the

simpler

kinds

of

work.

You

will then take better

advantage

of

the

other

possibilities

offered by

your

ELNA.

Extra

Accessories

25-26

Servicing

and

Disorders

27

•

Do

not

try

to

remedy a

disorder

without

first

having consulted

our

recommen-

dations.

• Make as

much

use

of

your

ELNA

service

as you wish. In each

ELNA

shop, there

is a qualified personnel ready

to

help

you. Under

the

conditions

of

the guaran-

tee, they are

the

only ones

competent

to

deal with every

technical

matter con-

cerning your machine.

Table

of

Adjustments

Index

28

29

ELNA

Cl.11 or

ELNA

Plana

Cl.13

ELNA

Zig Zag

Cl.

21

or

ELNA

Plana

Zig

Zag

Cl.

23

ELNA

Special

Cl.

31

or

ELNA

Plana

Special

Cl.

33

Preparing

Your

ELNA

Opening

the

Case and

Unpacking

for

the free-arm

ELNA

Fig.3

Remove the 4 screws at the bottom.

Keep

them

in the accessory box

for

use again it

necessary

(important

for

shipping).

Fig.4

Open the flap.

Fig.5

Remove the cover.

Take

out

the

foot

control.

Fig.6

Take

out

the

machine,

the accessory box.

Fig.l

Work

Table

To

increase the working surface, use the cover as

a work table.

e

Accessories

The

accessory

box

contains

the

following

standard

accessories:

1

presser

foot

(already on

the

machine)

(8)

1

darning

foot

(9

a)

1·

darning

plate

1

adjustable

zipper

foot

(9

b)

5

bobbins

1

assortment

of

5 needles

1

screwdriver

1 cleaning brush

1 empty

oiler

1

ELNA

·

oil

refil!

1 needle

threader

For

ELNA

Zig Zag and

ELNA

Special

only:

1

darning

and

button

plate instead

of

darning

plate

1

cording-buttonhole

foot

(10)

1

buttonhole

knife

How

to

use

the

accessories

is explained

from

page

13.

Fig.11

Electrical

Controls

Check

the

voltage on

the

switch

plate. Make sure

that

the

voltage is

the

same as

that

indicated

on

the

light

bulbs

in

your

home.

If

this

is

not

the

case,

do

not

plug in

the

machine,

but

get

in

touch

with

the

ELNA

service.

Do

not

go

by

the

markings

on

the plugs.

Electric

Foot

Control

and

Cord

Plug these in as

shown

in fig.11.

Electronic

foot

control

See extra

accessories

page 25.

Starting

the

Machine

The

more you press

the

foot

control

pedal down,

the

faster

the

machine

runs.

Fig.

12

Sewing

Light

The

switch

is on

the

switch

plate.

To

replace

the

bulb:

First

of

all, pull

out

the

plug.

Press with

the

screwdriver

to

make

the

lamp come

out.

Bayonet

socket:

push

in,

turn

and remove the bulb.

0

/

Maintenance

and

Cleaning

The

ELNA

will always

serve

you faithfully,

if it

is

cared

for

properly.

Fig.13

Remove

the

needle and foot. Open

the

rotary hook

cover. Take

off

the

needle plate.

Brush

the

rotary hook and feed dog with the clean-

ing brush,

to

remove the pieces

of

thread and lint.

Oiling

Fig.14-15

To

oil the machine, raise

the

thread take-up lever

to

its highest position.

Use only good quality oil

for

your

sewing machine.

Two

drops

of

ELNA

oil will

suffice

for

each oil

hole;

the

latter are painted red.

Oil

occasionally

according

to

use.

Fig.14

Insert oiler

tube

as far as

possible

in oil holes.

In

case

of

prolonged, uninterrupted use, place W

one drop

of

oil

from

time

to

time

on

the

rotary T

hook.

Fig.16

Insertion

of

the

needle plate.

13

/

r

Fig.tl-18

Quick

Change

of

the

Presser

Feet-without

a

screwdriver.

For all accessories,

whether

standard

or

extra

raise the needle bar and

the

presser

bar.

Turn

out

the

wings

of

the

clamping

·

screw

and

loosen

it.

Fasten the

foot.

Tighten

the

clamping

screw,

turn

in

the

wings, fig.18.

Fig.19

N.

B.

The

darning

foot

is fastened

from

the

rear,

the lever

of

the

foot

passing

behind

the

needle

clamp stud. ·

Make sure

to

lower

the

presser

foot

lever before

starting

to

darn.

Threads

The

use

of

good

quality

dull

or

mercerized thread

is preferable.

A dry

thre

ad

becomes

brittle.lt

regains its

strength

when placed near

an

open

window

overnight.

Fig.20

For darning, use

left

twist

thread

(stronger).

Choice

of

Threads

and

Needles

Choose

the

thread

according

to

the

kind

of

work

and material used,

the

needle

according

to

the

thread:

_ darning, sewing

or

embroidery

thread

according

to

the

fineness,

durab

ility and

the

ap-

pearance

to

be given

to

the

sewing work.

Th

reads

Nee

d

les

Male

rials

System

Colto

n I

Si

lk I

Synthetic

13

0/705

H

F

ibres

1

5x

1

Shee

r

120-

1

00*

sewing

sewi

ng

70

10

-

--

Used

(darning)

da

rni

ng

da

rn

ing

darn

i

ng

70

1

20-

1

00*

10

---

O

rd

in

ary 100

-6

0*

sew

in

g

sew

ing

80

12

I

---

Med

i

um

and

I

80-40*

sew

ing

sew

i

ng

80-90

h

eavy

we

i

ghts

1

2-

14

•siz

em

ay

ch

ange

dep

en

din

g

on

the

country

Fig.21

Needle

Insert

the

needle

into

the

needle clamp, with

the

flat

of

the needle

against

the

index finger. Make

sure

that

the

needle is pushed as

far

as

it

will

go.

Tighten

the

sc

rew

firmly

(without

using the

screw-

driver).

Fig.22

Bobbin

Winding

Disengage

the

flywheel by

unscr

e

wing

the

cou-

pling knob by a

quarter

of

a

turn.

Pull

out

the

spool

pin. Put

the

reel

of

cotton in

place and pass

the

thread

through

the

thread

guide

and then

through

one

of

the

bobbin holes.

Fig.23a

Place

the

bobbin

with

the

holes on

top

on

the

bobbin winder.

The

thread will then wind and un-

wind automatically in

the

right

direction.

Fig.23b

Push

the

bobbin

winder

to

the

right.

Wind

a few

turns

of

thread on

the

bobbin and then

break

the

end

off.

Fig.23

Wind

the

bobbin

while

pressing

lightly

on

the

reel

of

cotton with

the

left

hand.

The

bobbin

stops

automatically when

it

is full.

Fig.22

Tighten

the flywheel

coupling

knob

firmly

(turn

knob in

opposite

direction

to

the

arrow),

cut

the

thread and remove

the

bobbin by

pushing

away

the

bobbin

winder.

Fig.24

The

bobbin

should

unwind

in

the

direction

of

the

arrow.

Fig.25

Inserting

the

Bobbin

and

Threading

the

Lower

Thread

Place the

bobbin

into

the

rotary

hook

with

the

ho-

les on

the

top.

Retain

the

bobbin

with

the

left

index

and pass

the

thread

through

the

slot.

Bring

the

thread

around

to

the

front,

to

the right,

at

the

angle

illustrated.

Fig.26

Close the rotary

hook

cover and

draw

the thread

into

the

slot

with

a

slight

tug.

It

then

snaps

into

the

tension

spring

automatically.

Fig.27

Check

Open

the

rotary

hook

cover and check by

pulling

the

thread

gently

to

the

rear;

it

should

not

come

out

of

the

slot.

If

it

does repeat

the

operation as

explained above (fig.25-26).

Pull

out

about

6

inches

of

thread.

Fig.28

Changing

the

Bobbin

Presser

bar raised. Pull

the

extractor

down

into

the

central hole

of

the

bobbin.

When

it

is released,

the

bobbin

is

automatically

removed.

e

Fig.29

Threading

the

Upper

Thread

Needle bar and

presser

bar up.

Pass

the

thread

through

:

the

two

thre

ad guides

the

upper

tension

slot

-

(hold

the

spool

back

when

inserting

the

thread,

giving

it

a

slight

tug upwards)

the

thread

take-up

lever

from

left

to

right

the

th

read

guide

The

needle

clamp

is

to

be threaded

exactly

as

shown

in

the

drawing.

Fig.30-30a

Thread

the needle from front

to

back.

When

using

the

needle threader, you

must

there-

fore

insert

it

into

the

eye

of

the

needle

from

the

back.

Pull

forward

about

6

inches

of

thread.

Threading

Twin

Needles

See special

accessories,

page

26

.

Fig.31-31a

Proceed in

the

same way

but

with

two

threads.

Pass one thread on

either

side

of

the

separating

disc

of

the

upper

tension

(fig.31

a)

as well as on

either

side

of

the

thread

guide

on

the

needle clamp.

31

Drawing

up

the

Lower

Thread

Fig.32

Hold

the

upper

thread

between

the

left

index

finger

and

the

edge

of

the

needle

plate.

Place

your

hand on

the top

of

the flywheel,

turn

it

forone

fullturn

-towards

you-

so

thatthe

thread

take-up

lever

is

lowered

and

then

raised

com-

pletely

to

its

highest

position.

The

lower

thread then is drawn up

automatically

.

Free it

by

hand

comp

letely.

Fig.33

Make sure

that

the

lower

thread

crosses

the

bobbin

correctly.

Fig.34

Close

the

rotary

hook

cover,

pull

both

threads

about

6

inches

towards

the rear and pass

them

under

the

presser

foot.

Place the material beneath the

presser

foot

and

lower

the presser

foot

lever.

Never

run a

threaded

machine

without

any

material

under

the

pres-

ser

foot.

The

two

threads

should

be held

back

while

sewing

the

first

two

or

three

stitches,

every

time

you

start

sewing.

Straight

Sewing

Important

Characteristics:

The

Universal

Pressure

of

the

Foot

The

ideal

pressure

has been

adjusted

at

the

fac-

tory-for

both

sheer

and heavy

materials-so

that

no further

adjustment

is required.

For

the

preparation

of

your

ELNA,

the

feet

to

use

and

for

the

adjustments,

see

chart

on page

28.

Normal

Straight

Sewing

Use

the

presser

foot

(see page 4).

Place

the

material

under

the

foot.

Lower

the

presser

foot

lever.

Adjustments

•

Stitch

length knob on

position

1-4.

For

ELNA

Zig Zag and

ELNA

Special:

Stitch

width

lever at

"0".

Needle

position

wheel at the

center

position

(red

mark).

Fig.35

Forward

Stitching

Set

stitch

length knob at desired length

from

1-4

(black

numbers).

Adapt

the

stitch

length

to

the

kind

of

work

and

the

thickness

of

the

material used, i.e.

short

stitches

for

fine

material,

longer

stitches

for

heavy material:

The

two

threads

should

be held

back

while

sewing

the

first

two

or

three

stitches.

Fig.36-37

Reverse

Stitching

(a) For a short

distance

to

finish

off

or

to

make

a short

seam:

Push

the

lever.

When

it

is released,

the

ELNA

automatically

goes back

to

forward

stitching

(fig.36).

(b)

Prolonged

Use:

Turn

the

stitch

length knob between 1 and

4,

red

numbers

(fig.37).

In principle,

straight

sewing does

not

require

other

adjustments.

The

tension

of

the

threads is

uni·

versal-see

next page.

Fig.38

Removing

the

Material

•

Turn

the flywheel

towards

you

to

raise

the

thread

take-up

lever.

•

Lift

up the

presser

foot

lever.

• Pull

out

the

material

towards

the

back and

cut

the

thread

with

the

thread

cutter

on

the

presser

bar.

\

Universal

Tension

With

universal

tension,

most

of

the

usual sewing

jobs

can be done

without

changing

the

tension,

i.e.:

Fig.39

Upper

tension:

red

number

"5",

facing

the

guide

mark.

Fig.40

Lower

tension:

red

number

"1",

facing

the

tip

of

the

tension

lever.

For certain jobs (nylon threads, hemstitching,

special seams, etc.),

an

adjustment

can be made

by

turning

the

tension

regulator knob.

If

the

lower

tension

has

to

be altered (nylon work),

turn

the graduated screw with

the

screwdriver.

The

graduation marks

allow

you

to

come back

easily

to

the

universal

tension.

Fig.41

Perfect

tension:

The

threads are locked between

the

two

layers

of

cloth.

Fig.42

Upper

tension

too

strong:

The

threads are

locked on

top

of

the

material. Decreasethe

tension

by

turning

the

knob in

the

direction

of

the

arrow

.

., Fig.43

''I

Upper

tension

too

weak:

The

threads are locked

on

the

underside

of

the

material. Increase

the

tension

by

turning

the

knob in the direction

of

the

arrow

.

\

Some

Examples of

Practical

Sewing

Your

instruction

book gives you all the necessary

information

about

how

your

ELNA

works,

but

it

is

not

a sewing

course!

The

following

pages serve as

a complete

guide

for

the

efficient

use

of

your

ELNA.

Other

practical

suggestions

can be given

to

you by your

ELNA

dealer, and by

the

special

booklets you can obtain from him. Find

out

about

these!

Straight

Sewing

See page

11.

Fig.44-47

Darning

~

0

(0

0

•

Attach

the

darning plate and darning foot.

The

darning

pl

ate

avoids

the

use

of

a

drop

feed

mechanism

and

makes

darning

easier

(without

a darning hoop) by covering up the

openings in

the

needle plate.

o Place the material beneath

the

darning

foot

and

make sure

to

lower

the

presser

foot

lever before

starting

to

darn.

• Stretch the material

tightly

and place the

fingers

as close

to

the

darning

foot

as

possible

.

o

To

darn a hole, sew a screen

of

closely woven

stitches

:

going

from

right

to

left

and vice versa.

•

.,

Finish

the

darn by sewing parallel serpentines

forward and reverse.

To

reinforce a

worn-out

spot

,

it

is

not

necessary

•

to

sew a screen first.

For particularly fine darning, the darning plate with

round hole isrecommended (seeextraaccessories.

page

25).

Fig.48

Worn-out

Edges

Darn in the usual manner,

but

when

the

edge

of

the

materi

al

is reached,

turn

bacl; quickly

to

avoid

forming

lmots.

\

Fig.49a

Tricot

~o

(£}o

Sew a

row

of

tiny

stitches

once around

the

hole

to

fasten

the

meshes. Place

the

wool

as shown in

the

illustration

and fasten

it

with a

few

stitches.

Fig.49b

Cover

the

hole with wool, by sewing

from

left

to

right

and vice versa, starting

from

the

front

and

going

backwards.

Cut

the

wool and fasten

it

off

in

the

usual way.

Fig.

50

If

the

button plate is used

together

with

the

zig-

zag stitch,

to

fasten

off

the wool,

the

darn is

softer

(ELNA

Zig Zag and

ELNA

Special).

Fig.

51

Zip

Fasteners

~

0 ®

1-4

Use

the

adjustable zipper

foot

which

can be

moved

to

the

left

or

right

of

the

needle, after

the

screw has been loosened.

This

screw

must

be

tightened

again afterwards.

The

foot

allows you

to

sew in the zip fastener

without

having

to

turn

the

work.

It

is also suitable

for

sewing in cords,

and

for

sewing

right

at the edge

of

a piece

of

cloth, etc.

Sewing with the

ELNA

Zig Zag

Important

Characteristics

Fig. 52

o

The

stitch

width

lever

has a

dual

action

and can be set in the

following

two

positions:

1.

for

a fixed stitch width,

2.

for

a variable stitch width.

Fig.

53

Adjustments

o Stitch length knob on

positions

1-4

as desired.

• Stitch width lever with the

mark

"I''

on

top,

on position

1-4

as desired.

o Needle position wh.eel at the center position

(red

mark).

Example:

1

~

o 2 3 4

1---~

Fig. 54

Tapered

Stitch

Width

The

width

of

the zigzag stitches may

be

adjusted

gradually,

at

will, by hand.

Pull

out

and

turn

the stitch width lever

into

the

horizontal position.

It

can then be moved freely

from 1-4 and

from

4-1, with

the

thumb

of

the

right

hand.

Fig.55

This

free adjustment

of

the stitch width is particu-

larly suitable

for

making

filled-in

patterns and

tapered monograms as well as

for

doing fancy

embroider~.

Fig.56

Centering

the

Needle

For certain kinds

of

work such as bindings, zip

fasteners, etc. (straight stitch), buttons,

button-

holes, etc. (zigzag) the stitch can be displaced

towards the

right

or

left, by

turning

the needle

position wheel

to

the

right

or

to

the left, or

to

any

position

between

left

and right.

Example

of

sewing

displaced from center:

center (red

mark),

left, right.

(a)

Straight

stitch

(b) Zigzag stitch

at

stitch width

"2"

(c) Zigzag stitch at gradually variable stitch width

\

56

a

I

,J

I

L_

Some

Examples of

Practical

Sewing

with the

Zigzag

Stitch

Fig.57

Overcasting

~

2-4

~

1-3

Proceed as

shown

in fig.

57.

Fig.58

Blind

Stitch

~

1-3

~

2-4

• Form

the

hem:

I, (a =

wrong

side

of

fabric).

• Fold

it

back, underneath

the

fabric:

II.

I a

lla

• Place

it

under

the

presser

foot

as shown in

fig.

58.

• Sew

the

hem, making sure

that

the

stitches are

sewn alternately, one

just

on

the

fold

of

the

material,

the

other

beside

the

fold.

When

the

work

is finished, unfold

it

and press.

If

you often sew

this

stitch,

the

special blind

stitch

foot

with guide is

recommended-see

extra

accessories page

25.

Fig.59

Shell

Stitch

~

4

~

1-3

(a)

The

shell

stitch

is sewn on

the

bias.

(b) Proceed as

shown

in fig.

59,

taking care

that

the

stitches are sewn successively one on

the

material and

the

other

just

off

it.

Also

suitable

for

sewing with jersey material.

Fig.

60

Patching

~

2-3

~

1

Cover the damaged part with a patch. Sew

two

rows

of

zigzag stitches, one at

the

edge

of

the

patch, and

the

other

just

behind it.

Cut

out

the

defective

portion

of

the

original material close

to

the

zigzag

stitching.

This

simple method avoids

having

to

sew over

an

extra

thickness

or

having

to

fell seams.

Fig.61

Patching

Jersey

Material

~2-4

~1

Proceed in exactly

the

same way,

but

make

the

patch

circular

and sew

the

first

row

of

stitches

about

%"from

the

edge. Then

cut

off

the

loose

edges

of

the

patch and

the

defective part

of

the

original material.

Fig

62

Satin

Stitch

~

1-4

Use

the

cording

foot.

The

satin

stitch

is obtained by sewing very

short

zigzag stitches,

which

can easily be adjusted,

thanks

to

the

large distance

which

has been

allowed

for

making fine

adjustments

between 0

and

Y,

on the

stitch

length knob.

Use

this

stitch

for

making decorative patterns,

monograms, etc.

A nice raised effect is obtained by covering

the

first

row

of

stitches, once

or

twice, using the same

stitch

width.

Fig.63

For small monograms, marking linen, etc.,

it

is

preferable

to

use

the

darning foot.

Fig.64

Tapered

Stitch

~

1-4-1 ® Y.-Y,

Turn

the

stitch

width lever

into

the

horizontal

position.

The

width

of

the

stitches

can be changed

while

sewing,

to

obtain a stitch

with

a

fuller

or tapered

effect,

as desired.

It

is used

for

making

monograms

and fancy patterns.

For

monogramming,

stretch

the

material on an

embroidery

hoop

or

reinforce

it

by placing paper

under

the

work

.

Fig.65

Decorative

Work

with

the

ZigZag

Stitch

The

zigzag

stitch

is sewn on material stretched in

an embroidery hoop,

which

is moved freely by

hand.

Buttonhole

It

may be preferable,

first

to

make a trial

button-

hole

on a

scrap

of

material.

Buttonhole

3/16" (4

mm)

wide

~

2-4-2-4-0

~

%-

Y.

Fig.66

•

Decenter

the

needle

to

the

left.

•

Set

the

stitch

width

lever at

position

"2",

mark

"I"

on

top.

Fig.67

•

Sew

the

first

side

of

the

buttonhole

.

Lower

the

needle

into

the

material at

the

right

side

of

the

row

of

stitches

.

Fig.68

• Raise

the

foot

and

pivot

the

material

half

a

turn around

the

needle.

Lower

the

foot.

Raise

the

needle.

Fig.69

•

Set

the

stitch

width

lever

at

position

"4".

Sew

a

few

stitches

for

the

bartack. Raise

the

needle.

Fig.

TO

•

Set

the

stitch

width

lever at

position

"2"

and

sew

the

second

side

of

the

buttonhole,

but

make

this

slightly

shorter

than

the

first

side. Raise

the

needle.

Fig.71

•

Set

the

stitch

width

lever at

position

"4"

and

finish

the

buttonhole

by

sewing

a

few

more

stitches. Raise

the

needle.

Fig.72

•

Set

the

stitch

width

lever at

position

"0"

and

fasten

the

threads

with a

few

stitches

whilst

holding

back

the

material by hand.

Fig.73

Reinforced

Buttonhole

Insert a

soft

embroidery cord underthe leftgroove

of

the foot. Proceed in the same manner as

for

ordinary buttonholes.

To

finish

the

buttonhole,

pull the protruding ends

of

the cord and

cut

them

off close to

the

buttonhole.

Fig.

74

Cutting

the

Buttonhole

Proceed

as

shown

in fig.

74

.

Fig.l5

Repairing

Buttonholes

Sew over the frayed edges with the satin stitch.

Fig.76

Buttons

~

2-4

~0

Decenter the needle

to

the left.

Adjust

the stitch width so

that

the needle will

descend in the center

of

the holes

of

the button.

Sew about 6-8 stitches.

When

sewing on 4-hole

buttons, move the button after having sewn the

first

two

holes and sew the second pair

of

holes in

exactly the same manner.

Raise the needle, set the sLitch width· lever at

position

"0"

and fasten the threads by sewing a

few

stitches in the same hole.

Snap buttons as well

as

hooks and eyes, rollers

for

curtains, etc. are sewn on in the same way.

If

you often sew on buttons, the help given by the

button

foot

(see extra accessories, page

25)

and

button plate will be appreciable.

f.

\ r

ELNA Cl.11 User manual

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