Fsa Gt1-26-5 User manual

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GT1-26-5

5 Stage Undersink RO

Contents

Technical Overview......................................................................................................................................2

I. Important Notes .....................................................................................................................................2

II. Before You Purchase/Open ..................................................................................................................2

III. Space Requirements............................................................................................................................2

IV. Before You Begin Installation...............................................................................................................2

V. What is Reverse Osmosis.....................................................................................................................2

Installation Introduction.................................................................................................................................3

I. Working with Quick Connect Fittings......................................................................................................3

II. Flushing................................................................................................................................................3

Installing Connections ..................................................................................................................................3

I. Feed Water Connection.........................................................................................................................3

II. Drain Clamp..........................................................................................................................................3

III. Drilling Faucet Hole - Stainless Steel Sink) ..........................................................................................3

IV. Mounting the Faucet............................................................................................................................4

.................................................................................................................................................................4

V. Storage Tank Assembly........................................................................................................................4

VI. Assembling the System (Photos Below) ..............................................................................................5

Connecting the RO System ..........................................................................................................................6

I. Tubing....................................................................................................................................................6

System Start Up & Operation........................................................................................................................6

I. Plumber Commissioning Steps ..............................................................................................................6

II. Client can Complete Commissioning.....................................................................................................6

III. Automatic Shut Off...............................................................................................................................7

IV. Turning the System On/Off..................................................................................................................7

Maintenance.................................................................................................................................................7

I. Replacement Parts.................................................................................................................................7

II. Replacement Cartridges .......................................................................................................................7

III. Testing Filters ......................................................................................................................................7

Troubleshooting............................................................................................................................................8

Additional Extras.........................................................................................................................................11

I. Water Hammer Arrester.......................................................................................................................11

II. Leak Shut Off Kit.................................................................................................................................11

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Technical Overview

I. Important Notes

For correct operation of this appliance, it is essential to observe the manufacturer’s instructions.

Installation must be carried out by a qualified plumber or authorised technician to comply with Australian

Plumbing Codes. This RO system is certified to WaterMark Standards AS/NZS 3497 Under the Certificate

number 23247. WaterMark certification is the level of certification required by law for a licensed plumber in

Australia to install a water filter system.

You will find most answers to your queries can be found in this instruction manual – please

thoroughly read through this manual from front to back including the troubleshooting page before

contacting customer support.

II. Before You Purchase/Open

The system requires specific working conditions to be met before installation. If these conditions are not

met, the system may not be suitable for the application and may not function as specified.

Feed Water

Conditions

Min

Max

Inlet Pressure

350 kPa

700 kPa

Temperature

4.5°C

38°C

pH Level

TDS

0 mg/L

2,000 mg/L

Iron

0 mg/L

0.3 mg/L

Manganese

0 mg/L

0.1 mg/L

Hardness

0 mg/L

200 mg/L

III. Space Requirements

System Dimensions (5 Stage)

Height: 43cm

Width: 37cm

Depth: 21cm

Storage Tank Dimensions (12L)

Height (With Stand): 42cm

Height (No Stand): 38.5cm

Width: 27cm

IV. Before You Begin Installation

All components that come pre-assembled will need to be thoroughly checked before installation. Due to

transit, fittings and other components may be loosened or unseated – ensure fittings, tubing and filters are

inspected before continuing.

V. What is Reverse Osmosis

Reverse osmosis is a process that uses a semi permeable, spiral wound membrane to separate and

remove dissolved solids, organics, pyrogens, colloids and bacteria from water. The Feed water is delivered

under pressure at 50psi or above through the permeator where the water permeates the minute pores of

the membrane and is split into purified water which is delivered to the tap, and concentrate (reject) water

which is sent to waste. Reverse Osmosis is capable of removing 85 – 99.99% of a large range of solids

from water (depending on the solid) along with Organics and Bacteria.

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Installation Introduction

I. Working with Quick Connect Fittings

If you come across a push-fit fitting, you

need to firmly push the tubing into the

opening until you feel a “click” which

signifies that the tubing has pushed

through the internal O-ring and is seated

correctly. If leaking occurs, it may be due

to roughly cut tubing OR the tubing is not

pushed in far enough. To remove tubing

from push-fit fittings, depress the floating

collet (shown to the right), then pull the tubing out.

II. Flushing

Laws and regulations prevent us from wet-testing these filtration systems prior to sending them out.

Therefore, during assembly of these systems they are not pressure tested so it is possible to have a small

leak in a connection (which is simply fixed by re-seating the tubing or tightening a fitting). As the filters are

dry packed, the systems will require flushing before first use.

Installing Connections

I. Feed Water Connection

Using the supplied Feed Water Adaptor [FWA] (Pictured right), Locate the

connection between the kitchen tap & cold-water line (Usually a flex line). Shut

off the incoming water and bleed pressure from the line by opening the tap.

Disconnect the flex line from the cold-water inlet and install the Feed Water

Adaptor in between.

DO NOT apply thread tape to these connections as they are designed to use the

washers only – Thread tape is only required on the male thread of the FWA if it is

not installing to a flex line.

With the blue handle facing in line with the cold-water line (As pictured) the valve is

in the off position. During this point, you can turn the water back on to check for

leaks in the valve installation.

A pressure limiting valve must be fitted between the FWA and the Filter System to

limit the incoming pressure to a maximum of 500 kPa (70 PSI). Failure to install a

PLV may void warranty.

II. Drain Clamp

The best installation point for the drain clamp is below the S bend

(Trap). The Vertical tailpiece is ideal.

1. Mark the position of the hole on the pipe and drill through using

a ¼” (6mm) drill bit (One side only).

2. Unscrew the clamp and wrap it around the pipe, loosely screw

it back up leaving enough slack so you can position the hole

with the outlet of the clamp.

3. Tighten the clamp to create a seal.

III. Drilling Faucet Hole - Stainless Steel Sink)

1. Drilling through a stainless-steel sink can be achieved by marking the location with a centre punch

and drilling a 3/16” Pilot Hole – When drilling through stainless steel – lower speeds are better with

a sharper bit to avoid burning the surface of the sink.

2. Using a 1/2” or 7/16” carbide or sharp drill bit, enlarge the hole to fit the stem of the faucet (7/16”

Thread)

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For installation on other types of sinks – such as stone, it is best to employ a specialist to drill the hole to

ensure it is done correctly – where possible it is best to get the sink manufactured with a pre-drilled hole.

IV. Mounting the Faucet

1. Refer to the below diagram on the components of the faucet

2. Remove the required fixings of the faucet and thread the faucet through the hole.

3. Re-assemble the faucet fixings in the correct order and tighten into place.

4. The Faucet uses a compression fitting to connect to the filtered water tubing. Compression fittings

crimp the tubing around a stem (gasket) to seal the water, the compression ring then prevents the

tubing from being removed. In this instance, thread the Compression nut over the tubing, followed

by the cone washer. Then firmly press the gasket into the end of the tubing. You can then insert the

tubing into the base of the faucet and secure it by fastening the compression nut onto the bottom of

the faucet thread.

V. Storage Tank Assembly

1. Using standard white plumbers’ tape – wrap the stainless-steel port (top of tank) with 6 – 8 even

rounds of tape.

2. Install the 90° Tank Valve Elbow firmly

NOTE: At no point should you need to tamper with the air valve on the tank during new installation –

these tanks are pre-set to ~7psi (while empty). This is a bladder tank and the water will go in/out of

the tank on the same water line.

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VI. Assembling the System (Photos Below)

1. Disconnect tubing from the membrane

housing cap, unscrew the cap and

check the o-rings to ensure they are it

working order.

2. Unwrap the Reverse Osmosis

Membrane and install it into the

membrane housing, ensure that

you only handle the membrane by

the end stems as shown. The

membrane is inserted firmly o-rings

first. Replace the membrane cap –

be careful to keep the o-rings lined

up correctly to avoid pinching them if

they fall out while tightening.

3. Firmly hand tightening the cap is usually sufficient, the opening

handle membrane attachment can help nip up the housing further if

required.

4. Unscrew the vertical pre filter housings and unwrap the internal

cartridges – maintain minimal contact with the surface of the carbon

filter, handle by the end caps only to avoid contamination

5. Screw up the housings while they are in a vertical position to ensure

the cartridges remain cantered until you begin to feel resistance. (if

you gently shake the housing you should not be able to feel/hear the

cartridge rattle inside. Hand tightening these housings is generally

enough to seal them due to the dual tapered o-ring seal of the

housings. Only use the opening spanner if the housings need to be

tightened further to avoid leaks. DO NOT over tighten the housings

– doing so causes stress on the caps and may cause a split or crack

causing potential flooding.

NOTE: The rim of the housing and the cap should not be touching –

this is too tight. The gap should be approx. 3 mm – 4 mm between

the cap and the rim of the housing.

You are now ready to connect the system.

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Connecting the RO System

I. Tubing

Measure a length of white tubing (Inlet Tubing) to be installed between the FWA and the ‘Inlet’ port on the

filter system. Cut using a sharp Box Cutter knife or tube cutters. When connecting to the system refer to the

‘Quick Connect Fitting’ Instructions. To connect to the FWA, unscrew the lock nut until it hits a stop end.

Push the tubing in firmly until you feel it ‘seat’. Finally, tighten the locking nut to secure the tubing – this will

prevent the tubing from releasing.

Measure a length of blue tubing to go between the Storage Tank & the Tank Tee fitting located on the final

stage filter.

Measure a length of black tubing to go between the Drain clamp & the Flow Restrictor (Labelled Drain

Line).

Measure a length of white tubing to go between the Faucet & the Final Stage filter (Labelled To Faucet)

System Start Up & Operation

I. Plumber Commissioning Steps

When you are confident that the system is correctly installed, do the following steps to start up the system

and commence the flushing procedure.

1. Open the faucet tap – This helps bleed air from the system when you introduce the feed water.

2. Close the Storage tank valve – we want the system & filters to be totally wetted down and full to

allow the air to escape.

3. Smoothly open the FWV allowing water to enter the system, it is common to hear and see sputtering

as the water makes its way through the system forcing out the air.

NOTE: Check for any leaks, if there are leaks, shut off the water, fix them and continue.

4. It will take a few minutes for the water to make its way out the faucet due to the low flow rate of the

membrane. The drain line however should begin to run as soon as water reaches the membrane.

5. When the water first comes out of the tap, it will be grey and discoloured – this is normal as the

carbon fines are flushed out of the dry filters.

NOTE: Air bubbles are also common in the water – it gives the water a ‘milky’ appearance.

This will eventually dissipate as the air is flushed from the system – this can sometimes take

a few days to stop completely. The water is still safe to drink.

6. Once the faucet comes to a steady trickle of water and stops sputtering, close the faucet tap. This

should trigger the systems automatic shut off within 1 minute (Water should stop flowing). If the

water does not shut off within 60 seconds, it could be due to an air lock in the shut off valve which is

common for new installs.

7. Open the tank valve so the tank can begin filling. The tank will take up to 2 hours to fill depending

on several factors.

II. Client can Complete Commissioning

Note for Plumbers: At this point, if you are confident that the system is functioning correctly and

there are no signs of leaks or any concerns, you can finish your portion of the installation at this

point – ensure that the client is aware of the following steps to conduct next. We suggest that you

(As the plumber) understand the remaining portion of the manual in case the client has further

questions or to help basic troubleshooting.

8. When the tank has had long enough to fill, open the faucet tap on the sink and allow all the stored

water to flush out the system. You should notice some discolouration/cloudiness which is normal.

Repeat this process at least 2 times to clear the fines from the system.

The RO membrane has a small amount of food grade anti-bacterial preserve inside it which will be

flushed out during these flushes. Air bubbles are common to remain in the system for up to 2 weeks

but they will disappear quicker if the system is flushed more or used frequently.

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9. This system is an alkaline unit which means minerals are dissolved into the water to balance the pH

and ‘alkalise’ the water. When the system is new the pH can be higher than normal (which is still

safe to drink) but you may notice a ‘bitter’ or ‘metallic’ taste in the water which is caused by the pH,

NOT from any harmful chemicals or plastics. If you are not accustomed to drinking RO water or

Alkaline water, you may notice the water may taste ‘strange’ to your individual palate. This is due to

the pH level in the water and once your body adjusts, you will no longer have an issue with taste.

III. Automatic Shut Off

This system is fitted with automatic shut off. It is designed so that while the tank is full of water, the system

is under pressure – this creates back pressure on the shut off valve and closes off the production water

which will stop the water flow to the drain. When you draw water from the system, it will start back up and

begin to produce water. The water is produced @ 8L/Hour +/- so if you take 1L of water, you can expect the

system to run for approx. 5 – 15 minutes. Keep this in mind in case you hear running water and think the

system is ‘leaking’ or ‘not shutting off’.

IV. Turning the System On/Off

If for any reason the system needs to be turned off – for example if leaking occurs or you are going away

for over 48 hrs, follow the below steps to shut down the system.

1. Turn off the Feed Water Connection under the sink by turning the blue valve 90°.

2. Shut off the Storage Tank by turning the blue valve 90°

3. Briefly open the Faucet tap to bleed out excess line pressure and then close it again.

To start the system, open the Feed Water Valve and Storage Tank Valve. If the system has not been used

for over 48 hrs – discard the first 45 seconds of water. If the system has been shut down for over 1 week –

discard a full tank of water.

Maintenance

I. Replacement Parts

Filtration tubing should be replaced periodically (about every 3 – 5 years). There is no specific time. Fittings

should be replaced every 3 – 5 years due to wear & tear.

We suggest replacing the Pressure Limiting Valve every 2 years. If the system is having issues with the

shut off valve and is over 2 years old, the 4-way shut off valve should also be replaced.

II. Replacement Cartridges

Cartridges have a varying life span but generally can be replaced under the following guidelines under

normal working conditions; Stage 1, 2 – Replace Every 6 Months. Stage 4, 5 – Replace once a year. The

Membrane (Stage 3) can vary significantly depending on a range of factors including but not limited to

water quality and usage volumes. We generally find that on poor quality water such as Bore water*, or

Mains Water in areas of WA, NT and SA the membranes generally last between 1 – 2 Years. Other areas

where the water is less harsh the membrane can last anywhere up to 4 years without requiring

replacement.

III. Testing Filters

Reverse Osmosis membranes have a variance in their filter life and this is affected by several things

including water quality, usage, temperature and filter maintenance. As they are the workhorse of the

system, they are the most important filters to monitor and keep maintained.

To measure the effectiveness of the RO membrane you will need a TDS test meter. Draw a sample of tap

water (to get your base reading), then collect a sample of water directly off the membrane outlet (before it

goes through any other filters). This is your ‘pure’ water. On the GT1-26-4 System, you will need to draw

water off the line that would normally plug into the storage tank. To calculate the membrane effectiveness,

you will need to subtract the percentage of contaminant reduction from the feed water. E.g. Feed Water

200mg/L TDS – RO Membrane removes 97% (+/-) Therefore, 200 – 97% = 6mg/L. Factors can influence

the final TDS of the water and it will depend upon what is in the feed water to begin with. A membrane is

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deemed to be ‘expired’ if the overall reduction rate is <85% (as a general rule). To apply this to the above

example, 200 – 85% = 30mg/L. So, if your test reading was approaching 30mg/L or higher, it would be time

to change the membrane.

Troubleshooting

Problem

Possible Cause(s)

Solution

Leaking between

fitting & tubing

Unseated Tube

Check all tubing connections by firmly pushing them into the

fitting. Check that there are no kinks or any obvious issues. If

the problem persists, remove the tubing and check for a clean

cut with no burs. Push the tubing back in and try again. If this

does not work please contact customer support.

Leaking from

Feed Water Valve

1. Damaged or

Missing Washer

2. Not Tight

Enough

3. Thread is too

Short

1. Check the valve to see if the washer is inside, if it is

damaged it may need replacing – this is a common size

washer and can be purchased from most hardware/plumbing

stores.

2. If the diverter valve is loose (or you can easily swivel the

fitting without resistance, the fitting is not tightened enough. It

may feel like you can’t tighten it anymore and it just keeps

spinning but if you use a gripping tool (multi grips) to grab the

collar of the fitting and use your hand to hold the valve itself

steady, you will be able to further tighten the valve. The valve

is tight enough when you feel light to moderate resistance

when trying to swivel the valve.

3. If you screw the valve on and the collar ‘bottom’s out’ on the

tap, you may need to add another washer (to bulk up the

space).

The system is

making a loud

humming or

hammering noise

when running.

1. Membrane NOT

installed

2. Air Lock

3. Normal

Operation

1. Usually this noise is caused when the installer fails to install

the membrane into the housing which causes certain parts of

the system to malfunction. Check the box and packaging for

any “leftover” or “spare” filters.

2. When the system is newly installed or you have just

changed the filters, there is a considerable amount of air in the

system. This air can become trapped in air pockets and if they

are sitting in just the right spot, they can lock the valve in

place. Try tilting the system from side to side, back & forth to

shift the air pockets. You can also tap on the 4-way shut off

valve (the cube shape fitting on the back) to try and clear the

air pocket. If this fails, turn the water off, bleed out the

pressure then turn the incoming water back on to try and clear

it.

3. It should be noted that in some instances a slight shudder or

thud/vibration is common when the system “activates”. This

will generally occur in situations such as, Pump kicks in, water

pressure increases, water is drained from the tank and triggers

the valve to refill the tank. If the noise is severe, please contact

support for further assistance

The unit is not

producing any

water?

1. Water Supply is

off or

disconnected.

2. Pre-Filter has a

blockage

3. Insufficient

Water Pressure

4. Water Quality

1. Turn on the water supply and ensure there are no

obstructions to the water flow.

2. Disconnect the tube between the membrane and pre-filters

and run water at full pressure to see if water comes out of the

filter. – If the water does not come out (or is very weak

pressure) the filter may need to be changed.

3. Reverse Osmosis required 50psi (Minimum) to operate –

70psi+ is ideal. If you have lower than 50psi pressure this unit

may not be suitable for you.

4. Ensure that the water quality meets the feed water

requirements outlined previously. High levels of impurity such

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as hardness and salt can cause the system to block or not

produce water.

I am getting much

more waste water

than filtered water

1. Water Pressure

2. Water Quality

3. Blockage

1. Our units are designed to run at approx. 1:1 – 1:2 waste

water ratio at 70 psi. If your pressure is lower than 70 psi, the

production rate may decrease and cause more drain water

than filtered water.

2. If your inlet water quality is poor and contains higher salts

and hardness the filter may produce less water than the

specified amount.

3. If you have good pressure, and average water quality it is

possible there is a small blockage somewhere in the system.

Try to follow the water flow along the system, disconnecting 1

tube at a time to try and pinpoint where the water is ‘stopping’

High pH Reading

1. Alkaline Filter

2. GAC Filter

3. Insufficient

Testing Equipment

1. Alkaline Filters are designed to increase the pH of the water.

When the filter is new it will be high but will soon settle to the

advertised levels after adequate flushing.

2. If you have a post GAC filter (Carbon), this will naturally

increase the pH of the water. pH is the measure of Hydrogen

in the water and this hydrogen will vent off the water if you

leave it to stand and the pH will then drop back down to the

normal level.

3. pH testing equipment can range from a cheap test pen right

up to lab grade equipment. Before coming to a conclusion on

pH issues, it is best to ensure the equipment used to measure

the pH of the RO water is of high standards and suitable for

reading pH levels in low EC water (i.e. The guy at the pool

shop is not going to cut it). We have access to high quality

testing equipment and frequently test our units and conduct

research. If you feel that there is an issue with your pH, please

Strange taste to

the water (New

System)

1. Alkaline Filter

2. Residue

3. Contamination

1. If you are using an alkaline filter system, the unit requires

adequate flushing before first use. Usually all taste is gone

within a week of use. This taste is normal and in most cases is

your body adjusting to the high pH water (which some people

can describe as a slight metallic taste).

2. The filters are dry packed, the carbons, alkaline filters will

have ‘fines’ on them as they are granular medias, this will go

away with flushing. The membrane has a food grade preserve

inside it to prevent contamination during storage, this will also

flush away quickly.

3. Bacterial contamination is highly unlikely, but not

impossible. If there is a strong ‘foul smell’ or organic taste to

the water, it is possible that there is some form of

contamination. Contact us straight away so we can rectify (or

diagnose) the problem if there is one present.

The TDS Is

Higher than the

inlet water (or the

same).

1. New Filter

2. Alkaline Filter

3. Expired Filters

1. While filters are new, it is normal for the TDS to be elevated

while the system is flushing. Continue flushing the system &

contact support if the high TDS persists longer than 1 week.

2. Alkaline filters will naturally increase the TDS of the water,

especially when new. If you have low TDS water already, it is

possible for the TDS level out of the alkaline filter to be higher

than your inlet water. This is because you are adding minerals

back into the water therefore increasing the TDS and alkalinity.

3. If the filters have not been changed as per the

recommendations, it is likely that the increased TDS is due to

the filters needing replacing.

4. This is common as sometimes the lines may be mixed up.

Make sure that the tubing connected to the ‘Drain Line’ flow

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4. Mixed Up Drain

Line and Drinking

Line

restrictor is being run to waste, do not use this water for

drinking. Your drinking water line should be marked with either

‘To Faucet’, ‘Drinking Water’ or ‘Aquarium Water’.

Flow has

suddenly slowed

down to a trickle

1. Tank lost air

pressure

2. Tank Bladder

Rupture

3. Blocked filters

1. Over time, air can slowly leak out of a RO tank. Sometimes

this is more noticeable at the time you change your filters. An

indication that this has occurred is that the tank will be very

heavy (full of water) but no water comes out the tap. The

solution is to disconnect the tank (after shutting down the

system). Then empty all water from the tank, or as much as

possible. Add air pressure into the tank equal to 7psi.

Reconnect the tank and let it fill and try again.

2. Depress the air valve on the side of the tank – if water

comes out the air valve the bladder is ruptured. Or if you add

air to the tank and the air comes out the inlet/outlet valve it is

also ruptured. – The tank will need to be replaced.

3. It is unlikely that the filters would be totally blocked but it is

possible. Check the feed water conditions and replace the

filters if they are passed the recommended change times.

Water constantly

running to waste

1. Air Lock

2. Faulty Shut Off

Valve

3. Still Filling

4. Low

Pressure/Blockage

1. When the system is newly installed or you have just