Giant Leap Rocketry TALON 6 User manual

TALON 6
INSTRUCTIONS
Revision A
GIANT LEAP ROCKETRY, INC. & KB KITS, LLC
www.giantleaprocketry.com http://www.giantleaprocketry.com
6061 HIBISCUS DR BATON ROUGE, LA 70808 Ph 225 9564-0325

GIANT LEAP ROCKETRY, INC.
THANK YOU AND CONGRATULATIONS ON PURCHASING THIS
PRODUCT.
We at Giant Leap Rocketry, Inc. hope you enjoy building the best looking and best
flying rocket on the flying field. The Talon 6 is the flagship of the Talon fleet. It’s
stylish and commands attention. The Talon 6 can attain over 8,500 feet on either the
Aerotech M1315 or Cesaroni M1400 for spectacular level-3 flights. The center of
pressure (CP) is 89.5” from the tip of the nosecone. Be certain your center of gravity
(CG) is one to two diameters (6” to 12”) in front of the center of pressure with 1.5
diameters being ideal. All measurements need to be done with a “full-up” rocket
(including motor, recovery components and any electronics).
SPECIFICATIONS:
Length: 124”
Diameter: 6.0”
Dry weight: 25lbs (fiberglass). Full up weight with motor, chute & electronics: Approx 42.5lbs.
Motor mount: 75mm
Recommended parachute sizes:
Drogue parachute,
Giant Leap Rocketry TAC-9 Drogue or TAC-1 36”
Main parachute,
Giant Leap Rocketry TAC-9C (TAC-9B can be used if the rocket is flown near sea level
and is built especially light). In addition a Giant Leap Rocketry Parachute Slider is
recommended to help reduce the shock of parachute inflation.
Recommended 75mm motors: Aerotech M1297, M1315, M1850 or Cesaroni M1400
Be sure to see our other Talons!

WARNING!!
Flying rockets is potentially dangerous, and you or others can be injured and/or killed by
the usage of this product. Property damage can also occur by the usage of this product.
In using this product, you agree to comply strictly with all safety codes of the Tripoli
Rocketry Association and the National Association of Rocketry, as well as all local,
State and Federal laws. By using the product, you agree that Giant Leap Rocketry, Inc.
and KB Kits, LLC, will not be held legally or financially responsible for the correct or
incorrect usage of this product. If you do not agree with these statements, return the kit
in resalable condition to Giant Leap Rocketry for a refund. Opening this kit states that
you have read, understand and accept these conditions.
PLEASE READ THE SAFETY CODE AND LIABILITY STATEMENTS AT
THE END OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR
ARE UNCLEAR REGARDING THE ASSEMBLY OF USE OF THIS PRODUCT,
PLEASE CALL GIANT LEAP ROCKETRY, INC.
You are totally responsible for the safe usage of this rocket. Follow all pertinent safety
codes and directions at the launch site. Always wear eye protection whenever loading
ejection charges of any type and keep spectators away. Make a checklist to help you
prepare your rocket properly so as not to overlook an important step during the
excitement and stress of pre-flight preparations. If you do not feel ready to fly this or
any other rocket, DON’T. Take your time and do it safely and correctly.
REMEMBER, THE FUTURE OF THIS HOBBY ALONG WITH THE SAFETY
OF THOSE AROUND YOU IS IN YOUR HANDS.
Parts included in this kit:
1 – Fiberglass nosecone with sanded seams
1- 3.9” bulkhead with pre-mounted u-bolt for insertion in nosecone
3ft- of 2” elastic
1 – Fiberglass tail-cone with sanded seams at 7”-9” inside
3 – Small aft composite fins (with sufficient edging material to finish the fins)

3 – Large forward composite fins (with sufficient edging material to finish the fins)
1 – 6.0” x 42” phenolic airframe (fiberglass if ordered)
1 – 6.0” x 30” phenolic slotted airframe (fiberglass if ordered)
1 – 3.0” x 48” phenolic motor tube
1- 3.0” x 12” phenolic motor tube extension
1- 3.0” x 6” phenolic outside coupler (split lengthwise)
1 – 6.0” x 16” double walled phenolic coupler with inner coupler 13” long (6”x 16”
fiberglass single walled coupler for fiberglass kit)
1 – 3.0” body bulkhead
1 – 75mm threaded Slimline Starter Kit
1 – 1⁄2” x 14’ Tubular Kevlar
1- 6.0” coupler centering ring (two c-rings together) assembly with two pre-mounted u-
bolts and two extra 1⁄2” holes
1 – 6.0” x 3.0” centering ring (two centering rings together) assembly with two pre-
mounted u-bolts
1 – 6.0” x 3.0” centering ring with two 1⁄2” holes drilled in each
1- 3.9” Giant Leap Rocketry Phenolic Av Bay
2 - 5.5” x 3.75” x 1/4” plywood board with rounded ends for electronics bay caps with
one 1⁄4” hole and two 5/15” holes
4 – 5/16” quick-links
4 – 1/4” x 20 stainless steel pan-head machine screws
2- av-bay collar assemblies (each with one 6.0” x 3.9” center ring, one 6.0” x 3.9”
coupler centering ring, two u-bolts, two threaded inserts and attached Kevlar bridle)
1- 3.9” x 8” phenolic body tube
1- Brass tube 1/4” x 2”
1 – 1/2” x 25’ Tubular Kevlar Shock-loop
1 – 1/2” x 25’ Kevlar Shock-loop assembly with 6”x 5” piston and 1/2” hole drilled in
bulkhead
1 – Talon6 decal
1- Package with scrap piece of fin material and short piece of edging for practice
purposes
3 – Rail buttons, screws and nylon spacers
4 – Plastic spoons for fin fillet and decal application
24 – feet EZ Glass Sock (for phenolic airframe version only)
1 – Set of instructions
SUPPLIES NEEDED BY THE BUILDER TO COMPLETE THE TALON 6
JB Weld & High-grade adhesive epoxy, Aeropoxy ES6209 recommended
CA glue
Wax paper & Disposable glue brushes

Ruler and tape measure, paper towels and masking tape
Cleaning fluid (acetone or rubbing alcohol)
Drill with bits
Marking pen or pencil and disposable protective gloves
Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber-cloth reinforcement material
Chopped 1/32” fiberglass fibers
High-Grade Laminating resin, Aeropoxy PR2032 resin and PH3660 hardener
recommended
Small wood sticks or tongue depressors
Expanding Mega Foam
quarter sheet electric sander
Assortment of sandpaper: 60, 120, 180, 220, 320 and 400 grit
Xacto type razor saw
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, confirm that all the parts are included in this kit. Also, be
certain you have all the supplies needed by the builder to complete the Talon 6. AND
FINALLY, YOU MUST READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS
ENTIRELY BEFORE BEGINNING.
NOTE: Please use this knot diagram for reference when required to tie and
knot.

TALON 6 ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
ASSEMBLY OF MOTOR MOUNT TUBE
Please locate the following items:
One 48” x 3.0” phenolic tube
One 12” x 3.0” phenolic tube
One 6” x 3.0” outside coupler tube with split lengthwise
One 75mm Threaded SlimLine Starter System
One 3.0” x 1/4” bulkhead
One 6.0” x 3.0” coupler centering ring with two extra 1⁄2” holes
One 6.0” x 3.0” coupler centering ring assembly with two pre-mounted u-bolts
IT IS VERY, VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ARE NEAT AND DO NOT
ALLOW ANY EPOXY RUNS OR SLOPPINESS ANYWHERE DURING THIS
OR ANY OTHER PHASE OF CONSTRUCTION
Begin by mounting the 75mm Slimline motor retainer on one end of the 3.0” x 48”
phenolic tube as per the enclosed instructions in the Slimline kit. Please use JB Weld for
attachment and allow curing.
Next, locate the 6” x 3.0” centering ring assembly with two pre-mounted u-bolts.
WITHOUT BONDING THE CENTERING RINGS TOGETHER, slide the assembly

(with finger tight u-bolts) down the motor tube U-BOLT LOOP ENDS POINTING
AWAY FROM THE SLIMLINE UNTIL THE CENTERING RINGS ARE 21’’ TO
THE CLOSEST PART OF THE PREVIOUSLY MOUNTED SLIMLINE RETAINER.
Take a marking pen and make a circular mark on the motor tube on both sides of the
centering ring assembly. Next, temporarily move the assembly approximately six inches
back up the tube away from the Slimline. Loosen the u-bolts (but do not remove) and
spread a thin layer of epoxy between the two centering rings and bring together by
securely tightening both u-bolts. BEFORE THAT EPOXY HAS TIME TO CURE,
epoxy this centering ring assembly into place on the motor tube (between the previously
made marks) securely using a generous amount of epoxy.
BE CERTAIN THIS ASSEMBLY IS “SQUARE” TO THE MOTOR TUBE AND USE
TAPE TO HOLD IN POSTION.
THIS IS A CRITICAL JOINT AND MUST BE STRONG. BE CERTAIN THIS
ASSEMBLY IS 21” TO THE VERY CLOSEST PART OF THE PREVIOUSLY
MOUNTED SLIMLINE. Be sure you place epoxy on all mating surfaces and have fillets
on both sides of the centering rings. ALLOW THIS JOINT TO CURE WITH NO
EPOXY RUNS! Also place a small drop of epoxy on the exposed u-bolt threads. Be
certain there is no excess epoxy on the motor tube where it shouldn’t be.
Locate the 6” x 3.0” centering ring with two extra 1⁄2” holes in each, and slide onto the
forward end of the motor tube (away from the Slimline end) PLACING THE CLOSEST
PART OF THE CENTERING RING EXACTLY 4.25” FROM THE FRONT OF THE
MOTOR TUBE. Place a circular mark around the motor tube, on both sides of the
centering ring. BEFORE YOU USE ANY EPOXY, make sure that the small 1⁄2” holes
will be in a STRAIGHT-LINE BACK to the u-bolts mounted in the previous step,

Apply a generous amount of epoxy onto the motor tube between the previously made
marks. Push the centering ring into the ring of adhesive, and tape into place square to
the motor tube, CHECKING ALIGNMENT OF THE SMALL HOLES TO THE U-
BOLTS BELOW, THAT THEY ARE IN A STRAIGHT LINE. Also be sure there
are no epoxy runs. After epoxy has cured, apply epoxy fillets to both sides of this
ring/body tube joint, set aside the entire assembly and allow curing.
After the centering ring is cured into place with fillets on both sides, apply a THIN
AMOUNT OF EPOXY inside of the two 1⁄2” holes. DO NOT CLOSE THE HOLES!
You are only coating the interior of these openings to prevent chafing of the soon to be
mounted Kevlar cord. Allow curing.
Locate the 12” x 3.0” phenolic tube and 6” x 3.0” split outside coupler. You are now
going to take the previous 48” motor tube and extend it 12” by sliding the split coupler
over the OUTSIDE of the 3.0”x 12” extension.
Now butt the extension to the 48” x 3” motor tube end opposite of the Slimline retainer.
Slide the split coupler over the joint of the two tubes until the coupler is equal in length
on both sides of the joint.
Now apply a small amount of epoxy to the gap (split) area exposed by the coupler.
Rotate the split coupler to distribute epoxy to all mating surfaces on both the 48” and
12” tube. BE CERTAIN NO EPOXY MIGRATES INSIDE THE MOTOR TUBE OR
THE EXTENSION. BE CERTAIN THAT BOTH TUBES ARE IN LINE WITH EACH
OTHER AND ALLOW TO CURE.
You have the OPTION now of mounting the 3.0” bulkhead inside of the motor tube. If
you choose to do so, epoxy inside of the just completed motor tube opposite of the
Slimline motor retainer (inside the 12” extension).

ASSEMBLY OF COUPLER SECTION
Please locate the following items:
One 16” double wall phenolic coupler (or fiberglass coupler for fiberglass kit)
One centering ring assembly with two centering rings, two pre-mounted u-bolts and two
extra 1⁄2” holes
One 1⁄2”x 14’ tubular Kevlar cord
If you purchased the phenolic kit version, you will have a double wall coupler. There is
a split, shorter coupler inside the solid, slightly longer outside coupler. Remove the
inside coupler and squeeze it together reducing the diameter as much as possible without
breaking. Use tape to hold this smaller diameter. You have a choice of either simply
laminating the two couplers together or adding a piece of fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth
between the two. Whatever you choose, you need to apply either epoxy adhesive or
epoxy laminating resin to bond the two couplers together. You will insert the smaller
coupler inside the outer, cut the tape and allow it to expand. After you have joined the
two couplers together BUT BEFORE THE EPOXY CURES, SLIDE THE INSIDE
COUPLER SO THERE EQUAL SPACE BETWEEN THE TOP AND BOTTOM IN
RELATION TO THE OUTSIDE COUPLER. Remove all resin and/or cloth
reinforcement from these areas of the outside coupler where it is not doubled. IT IS
CRITICAL YOU DO THIS! Later in the construction of your rocket, you will be
mounting the coupler c-ring assembly inside this recess. BUT NOT AT THIS TIME.
After the unit has cured, clean up any exposed cloth reinforcement, if any was used.
If you have a fiberglass coupler, ignore the above instructions.

Locate the coupler and centering ring assembly. With the u-bolts on the c-ring assembly
finger-tight, be certain that this assembly will fit inside one end of the coupler so 1⁄4” of
coupler is above the c-ring assembly, AND THE LOOPS OF THE U-BOLTS ARE
PROTRUDING OUTSIDE OF THE COUPLER.
If satisfied, remove the c-ring assembly and loosen (not remove) the u-bolts so you can
spread a thin layer of epoxy between the c-rings, tighten the u-bolts and confirm that the
assembly will still slide inside of the coupler.
If not, loosen the u-bolts and adjust the c-rings until the assembly will fit inside the

coupler properly. BE CERTAIN BOTH U-BOLTS ARE TIGHT AND YOU
PLACE A DROP OF EPOXY ON THE THREADS. DO NOT EPOXY THE C-
RING ASSEMBLY INSIDE THE COUPLER AT THIS TIME.
Next, “paint” a thin coating of epoxy inside the two 1⁄2” holes drilled in the c-rings. DO
NOT PLUG THE HOLES! You only want to coat (and smooth) the inside surfaces.
This will help prevent “chafing” of the Kevlar cord to be mounted in the next step. Set
aside to cure completely.
With the Kevlar cord, find and mark the center point. Take the finished c-ring assembly
and with one end of the Kevlar cord, LOOP AROUND AND THROUGH ONE U-
BOLT and continue by inserting through the 1⁄2” opening adjacent to that u-bolt. Pull
several feet of the cord through that opening. Now take the other end of the Kevlar cord
and repeat the same procedure with the other u-bolt, 1⁄2” opening and pull through until
the center point on the cord is in-between the two u-bolts.

DO NOT EPOXY THE C-RING ASSEMBLY INSIDE THE COUPLER AT THIS
TIME.
ASSEMBLY OF NOSECONE, INSTRUMENT BAY AND
UPPER AIRFRAME
Locate the following items:
Fiberglass nose cone
One 3.9” bulkhead with attached u-bolt
One brass tube 1/4” x 2”
Three feet of strap elastic
One 6.0”x 40” phenolic airframe (or fiberglass if ordered)
Two 6.0”x 3.9 av-bay mounting collar assemblies (each includes one each body and
coupler centering ring with two attached u-bolts, two threaded inserts and one Kevlar
bridle)
One 3.9”x 8” phenolic tube
Two 5.5”x 3.75” rounded corner plywood endplates
One Giant Leap Rocketry 3.9” Av Bay
Four 1/4” x 20 stainless steel pan head machine screws
One 1/2” x 25’ Kevlar Shock loop and piston assembly
Two 5/16” quick links
Locate the two av-bay mounting collar assemblies and the 3.9”x 8” phenolic tube.
Loosen, but don’t remove the u-bolts or change the sequence of the assemblies, separate

the centering rings and apply epoxy sparingly between both centering rings on each
mounting collar. Re-tighten the u-bolts, clean up excess epoxy and be certain the rings
are centered one to the other and will slip over the 3.9”x 8” phenolic tube. BE
CERTAIN NO EPOXY MIGRATES INTO THE THREADED INSERTS OR THE
KEVLAR BRIDLE. Take that collar assembly and epoxy to one end of the 3.9”x 8”
phenolic tube U-BOLTS FACING AWAY FROM THE TUBE so the end of the tube
is FLUSH with the centering ring containing the threaded inserts. Only epoxy one of
the collar assemblies on at this time, set aside and allow curing.
Find the av-bay kit and the two rounded corner plywood endplates. First, open the av-
bay kit and remove the two larger body bulkheads and set aside. You will NOT use
them. Instead the rounded corner endplates will be substituted. Assemble that kit per
the included instructions so the rounded corner endplates are oriented the same direction
on either end of the av-bay.
Temporarily remove one of the rounded corner endplates (wing nut side) and insert into

the partially assembled av-bay holder by inserting the end of the av-bay kit (end without
the covering endplate first) into the 3.9”x 8” tube that HAS the collar assembly already
mounted.
Line up the two holes in the endplate with the two inserts mounted in the collar
assembly and install the two machine screws finger tight.
DO NOT USE ANY EPOXY YET. Slide the second collar assembly onto the opposite
end of the 3.9”x 8” tube with the u-bolts again facing outward followed by the rounded
corner endplate over the av-bay all-threads. Re-attach the av-bay wing nuts onto the all-
threads and rotate the loose av-bay collar so you can attach and finger tighten the two
machine screws through the rounded corner endplate into the inserts found in the
mounting collar.

DO NOT USE ANY EPOXY YET. Place a witness mark from the 3.9”x 8” tube to the
yet un-attached collar assembly so you can line up the collar properly when attaching it
permanently.
Now remove ALL four machine screws from both ends of the assembly and REMOVE
THE AV-BAY. Remove the still un-attached collar assembly and LOOSEN ONLY the
u-bolt nuts and apply a THIN coat of epoxy between the two centering rings. Re-tighten
the u-bolt nuts making sure the 3.9”x 8” tube will still slide into the rings. BE
CERTAIN NO EPOXY MIGRATES INTO THE THREADED INSERTS OR THE
KEVLAR BRIDLE. Attach this collar onto the tube in the same manner as done
previously BEING CERTAIN THE PREVIOUSLY MADE WITNESS MARKS
LINE UP, AND NO EPOXY MIGRATES TO THE THREADED INSERTS,
KEVLAR BRIDLES OR INSIDE OF THE 3.9”X 8” TUBE. Set aside to cure.
When done, go back and make certain all the u-bolts are tightened securely with a drop
of epoxy on the threads to lock them into place. Apply epoxy fillets to the joints where
the inside of both collars contact the tube. THIS IS A CRITICAL, CRITICAL,
CRITICAL JOINT. SHOULD THIS FAIL YOU WILL LOOSE YOUR

ROCKET. When all epoxy has cured, insert the av-bay back into the “holder” to
confirm all attachment points line up. Upon confirmation, remove the av-bay from the
holder, stuff the Kevlar bridles inside the tube and go to the next step.
With the above holder and the upper airframe section, insert the holder into the upper
airframe 18.5” from one end and place a mark around the inside of the airframe next to
the av-bay holder.
WITHOUT MOVING THE HOLDER, make a mark around the inside of the airframe
next
to the other end of the av-bay holder. Now remove holder from airframe. You are now
going to place a ring of epoxy, one inch wide, on the INSIDE of each mark you drew
inside the airframe. Insert the av-bay holder inside the airframe (it doesn’t matter which
way) until it is in position INSIDE OF BOTH MARKS drawn previously.
IMMEDIATELY, WIPE UP EXCESS EPOXY, BEING CERTAIN NONE GETS
ON THE KEVLAR BRIDLES OR THREADED INSERTS. Let the airframe lay on
its side occasionally rolling to prevent the epoxy from “pooling”. REMOVE ALL
EXCESS EPOXY. Allow to cure.
Standing the airframe on one end, apply a small epoxy “fillet” to the av-bay
holder/airframe joint allowing epoxy to run into the thin gap between the smaller outside
centering ring to the larger interior ring. BUT NOT ON THE FACE OF THE
SMALLER CENTERING RING! DO NOT ALLOW ANY EPOXY TO
MIGRATE TO THE THREADED INSERTS OR INTO THE 3.9” INTERIOR
TUBE. Allow that fillet to cure. When completed, reverse the tube and re-do the same
procedure preventing any epoxy runs and allow curing.
Now, remove the Kevlar bridles from the interior tube. Insert the wing-nut end (minus

the wing-nuts and cap) of the av-bay into the av-bay holder. You have the option of
inserting it in which-ever end of the airframe that you prefer. Rotate the av-bay until the
rounded end cap lines up on the opposite side allowing you to insert the machine screws
into the threaded inserts. Replace the second end cap, insert the machine screws and run
the wing nuts back onto the all-thread.
NEVER PERMANTLY MOUNT THE AV-BAY INSIDE OF THE HOLDER. It is
designed to be removable for your ease of use. NEVER, EVER ATTACH
YOUR RECOVERY HARNESS TO THE EYEBOLT ON THE ELECTRONICS
BAY. THAT EYEBOLT IS ONLY A KNOB TO REMOVE THE TRAY AND
CANNOT ACCEPT THE STRAIN OF RECOVERY EQUIPMENT
ATTACHMENT. Instead, your recovery harnesses will connect to the Kevlar bridles.
Upon completion of the av-bay section installed in the airframe, it will be necessary to
drill a “static port” (hole to permit the air pressure to fluctuate in the electronics section
for altimeter readings) into the electronics area. The opening should be 1/4” in diameter
THROUGH THE AIRFRAME ONLY AT THIS TIME! Place wide masking tape on
all sides around this opening and have a large number of paper towels available for the
next step. Mix a small amount of two-part foam (no more than one ounce total per each
attempt) and pour into the outside airframe static port opening and fill the cavity
between the airframe and the interior 3.9” tube, DO NOT OVERFILL OR YOU
WILL CRACK THE AIRFRAME OR THE INTERIOR TUBE AND WIPE UP
ALL EXCESS FOAM ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE AIRFRAME BEFORE IT
HARDENS. After the foam has hardened and totally filled the cavity in-between, re-
drill the static port opening and continue drilling through the interior phenolic tube into
the interior av-bay. Smooth the foam passageway between the nosecone and the interior
av-bay and remove all tape from the airframe. Locate the 1/4” x 2” brass tube and insert
into the just completed opening checking for size. When satisfied with the fit, remove,

roughen and apply a small amount of epoxy to the exterior of the brass tube and the wall
of the foam passage-way. Insert into position BEING CERTAIN THE BRASS TUBE
DOES NOT INTRUDE INTO THE 3.9”X 8” INTERIOR TUBE. When the brass
tube has cured permanently into position, it will be necessary to cut away the excess tube
protruding from the airframe so it is “flush” with the airframe.
Locate the 1⁄2”x 25’ Kevlar Shock loop and piston parts. First, take the Kevlar shock
loop and thread through the hole drilled in the bulkhead. Pull eight to ten feet of cord
through and tie a knot, AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE, ON BOTH SIDES of the bulkhead
hole that will prevent the piston from moving one way or another on the Kevlar cord.
DO NOT FILL OR EPOXY THE OPENING, TO DO SO WILL MAKE THE
KEVLAR BRITTLE AND AT RISK OF BREAKING UNDER STRESS.
Thread the 6”x 5” phenolic coupler through the Kevlar shock loop and epoxy the
bulkhead into place on one end of the 6”x 5” coupler SO THE LONGER LENGTH
OF KEVLAR SHOCKLOOP EXTENDS OUT THE OPEN-COUPLER SIDE OF
THE PISTON.

Locate the 3.9” bulkhead with loosely attached u-bolt. Remove the u-bolt and slip it
through the above sewn Kevlar loop end found on the LONGER SIDE of the shock
cord and permanently re-attach to the 3.9” bulkhead.Using that bulkhead, epoxy into the
nosecone as far as it will go. Be certain to mount it well because should it fail, your
nosecone will be lost. Do not allow epoxy to get on the Kevlar shock cord.
Using a 5/16” quick link, connect the loose end of the above Kevlar shock loop (with
piston connected to the nose cone) to the Kevlar bridle found at the av-bay holder, 14”-
15” inside of the upper airframe.
Because of customer requests for the Talon 6 to be dual deployment yet keeping the size
of the rocket the same, an unusual technique must be employed to provide adequate
space for the main parachute. It will be necessary for at least some of the parachute to
be packed inside of the nosecone (it is recommended that a deployment bag be used to
prevent snagging of the chute). To help facilitate that the nosecone and parachute
separate from one another at the required time, three feet of 2” wide elastic strap has
been included to be cut and epoxied inside of the nose cone as shown in the following
photo. This will assist the event to occur.

Because of the wide variety of parachutes available and the amount of room
required to pack them, instructions on where in the nosecone and the amount of
elastic needed for the proper stretch can only be determined on-site by the builder.
In addition, it is also recommended that shear pins be employed to hold the nose
cone and the upper airframe together as (hopefully) the elastic will be continuously
trying to force the nosecone off. IT IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL THAT YOU
DO GROUND TESTS TO BE CERTAIN THE MAIN CHUTE PROPERLY
DEPLOYS AND ANY SHEAR PINS UTILIZED BREAK CLEANLY AND
EVENLY.
JOINING OF SUB-ASSEMBLIES
Please locate the following items:
Tail-cone
Motor tube assembly
Slotted airframe
Double-walled coupler (or fiberglass coupler for the fiberglass kit) with centering ring
assembly (including u-bolts and Kevlar cord)
Two 5/16” quick-links
One 1⁄2”x 25’ Tubular Kevlar Shock-loop
First TEST FIT WITHOUT ADHESIVES the motor tube assembly into the tail-cone.
Insert the Slimline end first through the large end of the tail-cone, DO NOT FORCE,
to confirm that the small end of the tail-cone and Slimline are flush together at the end.
If for some reason they do not, please sand as necessary. After you are confident of the