GMC VSL 4000 User manual

VSL 4000
Installation Guide
Guide D’Installation
Guía De Instalación
GM P/N 12490578 NVSL4000 1-01

NVSL4000
2 - English
table of contents
What Is Included . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Installation Points to Remember . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Deciding on Component Location . . . . . . . . . . 5
Siren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Control Module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Valet/Program Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Status LED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Finding the Wires You Need. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Constant 12V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Switched Ignition. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Door Pin Switch Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Parking Light Wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Making Your Connections. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Primary Harness (H1), 12-pin Connector
Wiring Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Door Lock Harness (H2), 8-pin Connector
Wiring Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Primary Harness (H1) Wire Connection Guide . 11
Door Lock Harness (H2) Wire Connection Guide. 15
Identifying the Door Lock System. . . . . . . . 15
At the Switch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Positive-Triggered, Relay Driven
Systems (Type A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Negative-Triggered, Relay Driven
Systems (Type B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Testing Reversing Polarity Systems . . . . . . . 18
Reversing Polarity System (Type C) . . . . . . . 19
Type G: Positive (+) Multiplex . . . . . . . . . . 20
Type H: Negative (-) Multiplex. . . . . . . . . . 22
On-Board Dual Stage Shock Sensor . . . . . . . . 24
Auxiliary Harness (H3), 2-Pin Connector . . . . 24
Plug-In Harnesses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Super Bright LED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Valet/Program Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Programming Port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Optional Sensor Harness, 4-Pin Connector . . . 26
Internal Programming Jumper . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Light Flash Jumper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Transmitter/Receiver Learn Routine . . . . . . . 27
Transmitter Configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
System Features Learn Routine . . . . . . . . . . 29
Feature Descriptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Table of Zones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Long-Term Event History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Rapid Resume Logic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Wiring Quick Reference Guide . . . . . . . . . . . 34
TECHNICAL SERVICE
Monday - Friday 8 a.m. - 8:30 p.m. (EST)
This manual thoroughly describes the installation
procedure. If any additional assistance is required
call the technical service hotline at
1-888-4GMVSS1 (446-8771).
The hand-held system programmer
(GM P/N 9M904965) requires
chip version 1.2 or newer to pro-
gram this unit.

NVSL4000 3 - English
2-pin auxiliary
harness (H3) plug
Shock sensor
adjustment
2-pin blue
Valet/program plug
4-pin optional
sensor harness plug
2-pin micro LED
plug
■The control module, GM P/N 12463358 (see diagram)
■A plug-in Valet/program switch, GM P/N12463367
■A plug-in status LED, GM P/N12463366
■A 6-tone siren, GM P/N12463371
■Primary harness,GM P/N12463364
■Door lock harness, GM P/N12463365
■Auxiliary harness, GM P/N12463368
■Installation hardware package, GM P/N12495657
■Two four-button remote transmitters, GM P/N12490830
■Dual-stage shock sensor (on-board the control module)
what is included
3-pin
programming port
8-pin door lock
harness (H2) plug
12-pin primary
harness (H1) plug

NVSL4000
4 - English
installation points to remember
Before beginning the installation:
■Check with the customer on Status LED location.
■Use seat and fender covers to protect the vehicle.
■Remove the domelight fuse. This prevents accidentally draining the battery.
■Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.
■Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an anti-theft coded radio. If equipped with an air bag, avoid
disconnecting the battery if possible.
■Remove necessary under-dash trim panels to provide access for mounting the system’s components.
IMPORTANT! Please read this entire installation guide before beginning the installation. The instal-
lation of this security system requires interfacing with many of the vehicle’s systems. Many new
vehicles use low-voltage or multiplexed systems which can be damaged by low resistance testing
devices, such as test lights or logic probes. Test all circuits with a high-quality digital multi-meter
before making the connections.
IMPORTANT! Many airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through their warning light after
they lose power. Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, which can require a trip
to the dealer.
After the install:
■Test all functions. The “Using Your System” section of the owner’s guide is very helpful when testing.
■When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with circuitry to prevent false alarms. This circuitry
can bypass both instant trigger zones, making them seem to stop working.
■Carefully reassemble the under-dash trim panels.
■Inspect the engine compartment for tools that may have been left behind.
tools required
This is a general list of tools required to complete the installation of this security system in most vehicles. Some
vehicles may require additional tools.
■Digital multi-meter
■Torx driver set
■Nutdriver and/or socket set
■Panel removal tool
■Drill bit set
■Phillips head screwdriver
■Work light

NVSL4000 5 - English
deciding on component locations
Some things to remember about mounting the siren:
■Keep it away from heat sources, such as radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and heat shields.
■Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut. Both the siren and its
wires should be difficult to find. This usually involves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness.
■We recommend against grounding the siren to its mounting screws. Instead, we recommend running both the
red and black wires into the passenger compartment and grounding to one common point for all devices.
After all, both wires are the same length and come already bonded together. Whenever possible, conceal your
wires in the factory harnesses or in the same style loom as the factory.
■When possible, place the siren on the same side of the vehicle as the control module, where its wires will
reach the control module’s wires without extending them. Always run the wires through the center of a
grommet, never through bare metal!
■Point the siren down so water does not collect in it.
Some things to remember about where to mount the control module:
■Never put the control module in the engine compartment!
■The first step in hot-wiring a vehicle is removing the driver's side under-dash panel to access the starter and
ignition wires. If the control module is placed just behind the driver's side dash it can easily be disconnected.
■When mounting the control module, try to find a secure location that will not require you to extend the har-
nesses’ wires (they are 1.5 meters long). Keep it away from the heater core (or any other heat sources) and
any obvious leaks.
locations for the control module
locations for the siren

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■The higher the control module is in the vehicle, the better the transmitter range will be. If you put the control
module under a seat or inside a metal dashboard, range will suffer.
Some good control module locations: above the glove box, inside the center console, above the under-dash fuse
box, above the radio, etc.
IMPORTANT! When the vehicle is delivered, please show the user where this switch is located and
how to disarm the system with it.
Ensure that the location you pick for the switch has sufficient clearance to the rear. The switch should be well
hidden. It should be placed so passengers or stored items (such as in a glove box or center console) cannot acci-
dentally hit it. The switch fits into a 9/32-inch hole.
This system has Remote Valet. The user can enter and exit Valet Mode without having to reach the Valet/program
switch. This feature was introduced so that switch location was less critical in day-to-day use. As long as the
Valet/Program switch can be reached to disarm without a transmitter, easy access is not important.
locations for valet/program switch

NVSL4000 7 - English
Things to remember when positioning the Status LED:
■It should be visible from both sides and the rear of the vehicle, if possible.
■It needs at least 1/2-inch clearance to the rear.
■It is easiest to use a small removable panel, such as a switch blank or a
dash bezel. Remove it before drilling your 9/32-inch hole.
■Use quick-disconnects near the LED wires if the panel is removable. This
lets mechanics or other installers remove the panel without cutting the
wires.
finding the wires you need
Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you’re going to find the wires in the car that
the security system will be connected to.
IMPORTANT! Do not use a 12V test light or logic probe (computer safe test light) to find these
wires! Use a digital multimeter for all testing.
We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant: the (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to
the ignition switch. Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. If the fuse also will be powering
other circuits, such as door locks, a power window module, a headlight control system, etc., fuse accordingly.
IMPORTANT! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire. It ensures that the control module has its
own fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many accessories are added to the main power feed.
obtaining constant 12V
locations for the status LED

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8 - English
The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position. This is because the ignition wire powers
the ignition system (spark plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer).
Accessory wires lose power when the key is in the start position to make more current available to the starter motor.
How to find (+)12V ignition with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steer-
ing column harness and ignition switch harness are excellent
places to find this wire.
4. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position. If your meter
reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another
wire.
5. Now turn the key to the start position. The meter display should stay steady, not dropping by more than a
few tenths of a volt. If it drops close to or all the way to zero, go back to Step 3. If it stays steady at (+)12V,
you have found an ignition wire.
The best places to find the door switch wire are:
■At the pin switch: When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often,
the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.
■In some GM vehicles with isolated door pins, the door pin wires may be located at the body control module.
■At the dome light: This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed domelight supervision.
Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel, at
the windshield pillar, or in the running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the dome-
light itself is often the best solution.
How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. In most Fords, fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. In most other cars, fasten the (+) probe
of your meter to (+)12V constant.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door is opened,
you have found a trigger wire.
finding the door pin switch circuit
finding the 12V switched ignition wire

NVSL4000 9 - English
The (+) parking light wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal
lever, and in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column. The same wire is often avail-
able in the kick panel or running board.
How to find a (+) parking light flash wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire.
Usually, the area near the headlight/parking light switch is an
excellent area to start, as is the kick panel.
4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off
the parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero.
5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on and, using the dash light dimmer control, turn the
brightness of the dash lights up and down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer,
look for another wire. If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.
making your wiring connections
Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the yellow
ignition input, the red 12V constant input, and the orange ground-when-armed output will often be routed
together to the ignition switch harness. In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find, you may
wish to wrap these wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the manufacturer
used.
There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection - solder connections and crimp connectors. When
properly performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your
connections or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically
sound and that they are insulated.
Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather.
Use good quality electrical tape or heat shrink.
■Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.
■Never use “fuse taps”, as they can damage fuse box terminals.
If you use tapping connectors such as 3M T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch-Locks), avoid using them in
higher-current applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.). Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and
should be avoided.
finding a (+) parking light wire

NVSL4000
10 - English
primary harness (h1), 12-pin connector
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
door lock harness (H2), 8-pin connector
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
*VIOLET and VIOLET/BLACK wires are common at the fuseholder.
VIOLET* UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)
BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)
BROWN/BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED
VIOLET/BLACK* LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)
GREEN/BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)
WHITE/BLACK LOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED
BLACK/WHITE INPUT TO DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION RELAY
RED/WHITE INPUT TO ON-BOARD CHANNEL 2 RELAY
H2/A
H2/B
H2/C
H2/D
H2/E
H2/F
H2/G
H2/H
RED/WHITE OUTPUT OF CHANNEL 2 RELAY #30
RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT
BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT, ZONE 5
BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT
VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
BLUE (-) INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 1
GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
BLACK/WHITE OUTPUT OF DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION RELAY #30
WHITE/BLUE (-) 200 mA CHANNEL 3 SELECTABLE OUTPUT
WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT
ORANGE (-) 500 mA GROUND-WHEN-ARMED OUTPUT
H1/1
H1/2
H1/3
H1/4
H1/5
H1/6
H1/7
H1/8
H1/9
H1/10
H1/11
H1/12

NVSL4000 11 - English
primary harness (H1) wire connection guide
This wire supplies a (-) ground as long as the system is armed. It can supply up to 500 mA of current. This output
is used to control an optional starter kill relay (GM P/N 12463503).
As shipped, this wire should be connected to the (+) parking light wire. If the light flash polarity jumper under
the sliding door is moved to the opposite position (see Internal Programming Jumper section of this guide), this
wire supplies a (-) 200 mA output. This is suitable for driving (-) light control wires in Toyota, Lexus, BMW, some
Mitsubishi, some Mazda, and other model cars.
(+) Positive Light Flash Output
(-) Light Flash Output
NOTE: For parking light circuits that draw 10 amps or more, the internal jumper must be switched
to a (-) light flash output. (See the Internal Programming Jumper section of this guide.) The
optional Relay Accessory Package (GM P/N 12495659) must be used on the H1/2 light flash
output harness wire.
H1/2 WHITE (+/-) selectable light flash output
H1/1 ORANGE (-) ground-when-armed output

NVSL4000
12 - English
This wire provides a (-) 200 mA output whenever the transmitter button(s) controlling Channel 3 is pressed. This
output can be programmed to provide the following types of output (see System Features Learn Routine section):
■A validity output will send a signal as long as the transmission is received.
■A latched output will send a signal continuously when the Channel 3 transmitter button(s) is pressed and
will continue until Channel 3 is pressed again.
■A latched/reset with ignition output works similar to the latched output, but will also reset (output will
stop) when the ignition is turned on and then off.
■A 30-second timed output will send a signal for 30 seconds when the Channel 3 button(s) is pressed. This
output can be shut off during the 30-second period by pressing the Channel 3 button(s) again.
■This output can also be programmed to provide a second unlock pulse when the disarm button is pressed
within 15 seconds after disarming the system. This can be used to unlock the passenger doors when installing
progressive door locks.
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! This
transistorized output can only supply 200 mA, and connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause the module to fail.
NOTE: Many of the options that can be operated with this output require the addition of the
optional Relay Accessory Package (GM P/N 12495659).
Connect this wire directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle. The on-board relay will drive circuits up to
20 amperes. The polarity of this output is determined by the connection of the H2/B input wire in the Door Lock
Relay Harness.
NOTE: If the H2/B input wire is not connected, there will be no output on this wire.
Most vehicles use negative door trigger circuits. Connect the green wire to a wire which shows ground when any
door is opened. In vehicles with factory delays on the domelight circuit, there is usually a wire that is unaffected
by the delay circuitry. This wire will report Zone 3.
H1/5 GREEN (-) door trigger input, zone 3
H1/4 BLACK/WHITE high current output from on-board domelight supervision relay
H1/3 WHITE/BLUE 200 mA (-) channel 3 output

NVSL4000 13 - English
This input will respond to a negative input with an instant trigger. It is ideal for hood and trunk pins and will
report on Zone 1.
This wire is used in vehicles that have a positive (+) switched dome light circuit. Connect the violet wire
to a wire that shows (+)12V when any door is opened, and ground when the door is closed. This wire will report
Zone 3.
Remove any paint and connect this wire to bare metal, preferably with a factory bolt rather than your own screw.
(Screws tend to either strip or loosen with time.) We recommend grounding all your components, including the
siren, to the same point in the vehicle.
H1/8 BLACK (-) chassis ground connection
H1/7 VIOLET (+) door trigger input, zone 3
H1/6 BLUE (-) instant trigger input, zone 1

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Connect this wire to the (+)12V ignition wire. This wire must show (+) 12V with the key in run position and during
cranking. Take great care that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point. This wire will report Zone 5.
Connect this to the red wire of the siren. Connect the black wire of the siren to (-) chassis ground, preferably at
the same point you connected the control module’s black ground wire.
Before connecting this wire, remove the supplied fuse. Connect to the battery positive terminal or the constant
12V supply to the ignition switch.
NOTE: Always use a fuse within 12 inches of the point you obtain (+)12V. Do not use the 15A fuse
in the harness for this purpose. This fuse protects the module itself.
Whenever the button(s) controlling Channel 2 is pressed for 1.5 seconds, the on-board relay is activated and will
stay activated as long as the transmission continues. This on-board relay is often used for trunk release. The relay
can drive circuits up to 20 amperes. Connect this wire to the trunk release wire of the vehicle. This polarity of
this output is determined by the connection of the input wire, H2/A, in the relay harness.
NOTE: If the H2/A input wire is not connected, there will be no output from the relay when it is activated.
H1/12 RED/WHITE high current output from on-board channel 2 (trunk release) relay
H1/11 RED (+)12V constant power input
H1/10 BROWN (+) siren output
H1/9 YELLOW (+) ignition input, zone 5

NVSL4000 15 - English
door lock harness (H2) wire connection guide
This wire is used to supply voltage to the output H1/12. If the trunk release circuit of the vehicle is positive on
H1/12, connect wire H2/A to (+)12V. Always fuse appropriately. If the trunk release circuit of the vehicle is neg-
ative on H1/12, connect wire H2/A to chassis ground.
This wire determines what the output polarity of H1/4 will be. If the door pin circuit is negative, connect to
chassis ground. If the door circuit is positive, connect to a fused 12V source.
The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power door lock systems
drawing 20 amps or less.
The easiest way to determine which type of door lock system you are working with is to remove the master
locking switch itself, which is usually on the driver’s door or on the center console. Once you have determined
which type of factory door lock circuit you are working with, and the color codes of the switch wires to be used,
you can usually simplify the installation by locating the same wires in the vehicle’s kick panel.
NOTE: Always retest the kick panel wires to make sure they work the same as the wires on the switch.
There are five different types of common door lock circuits found in GM vehicles (some vehicles use more unusual
systems). The five common systems are:
■Type A: Three-wire (+) pulse controlling factory lock relays. This system is most commonly found in GM four-
door trucks, SUVs and sedans.
■Type B: Three-wire (-) pulse controlling factory lock relays. This system is found in some late model GM vehicles.
■Type C: Direct-wired reversing-polarity switches. The switches are wired directly to the motors. This type of
door lock system has no factory relays. This system is most commonly found in two-door GM cars and trucks.
■Type G: Positive (+) multiplex. A Resistor Interface Module (GM P/N 12496739) may be used for this type
of door locking system. This system is found in the 2001 and newer GM Aztek.
■Type H: Negative (-) multiplex. A Resistor Interface Module (GM P/N 12496739) may be used for this type
of door locking system. This system is found in 1999 and newer Grand Am and Alero models, as well as 2000
and newer Impala and Monte Carlo models.
identifying the door lock system
H2/C - H2/H power door locks
H2/B BLACK/WHITE input to on-board domelight supervision relay
H2/A RED/WHITE input to on-board channel 2 (trunk release) relay

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■Three-wire switches will have either a constant ground input or a constant (+)12V input, along with the
pulsed lock and unlock outputs to the factory relays.
■Some vehicles have no external switch. The switches are inside the actuator, and instead of pulsing, the
proper wires will flip-flop from (+)12V to (-) ground as the door locks are operated.
■Direct-wired switches will have a (+)12V constant input and one or two (-) ground inputs, along with two
output leads going directly to the lock motors.
IMPORTANT! The H2/A and H2/B wires are not required for wiring the door locks. For detailed
wiring instructions for these two wires, refer to the beginning of the Door Lock Harness (H2) Wire
Connection Guide section. Depending on the type of door lock system, there may be additional H2
harness wires that are not used for wiring the door locks.
type A: positive-triggered, relay-driven system
at the switch

NVSL4000 17 - English
IMPORTANT! The H2/A and H2/B wires are not required for wiring the door locks. For detailed
wiring instructions for these two wires, refer to the beginning of the Door Lock Harness (H2) Wire
Connection Guide section. Depending on the type of door lock system, there may be additional H2
harness wires that are not used for wiring the door locks.
type B: negative-triggered, relay-driven system

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Use these instructions if the power door lock switch has four or five heavy-gauge wires. This type of switch has
two outputs that rest at (-) ground.
IMPORTANT! To interface with these systems, you must cut two switch leads. The relays must dupli-
cate the factory door lock switches’ operation. The master switch will have one or two ground
inputs, one (+)12V input, and two switch outputs going directly to the slave switch and through
to the motors. These outputs rest at (-) ground. The lock or unlock wire is switched to (+)12V, while
the other wire is still grounded, thus completing the circuit and powering the motor. This will dis-
connect the switch from the motor before supplying the motor with (+)12V, avoiding sending
(+)12V directly to (-) ground.
It is critical to identify the proper wires and locate the master switch to interface properly. Locate wires that
show voltage when the switch is moved to the lock or unlock position. Cut one of the suspect wires and check
operation of the locks from both switches. If one switch loses all operation in both directions then you have cut
one of the correct wires and the switch that is entirely dead is the master switch. If both switches still operate
in any way and one or more door motors have stopped responding entirely, you have cut a motor lead. Reconnect
it and continue to test for another wire. Once both wires have been located and the master switch identified,
cut both wires and interface as described in the following paragraphs.
WARNING! If these wires are not connected properly, you will send (+)12V directly to (-) ground,
possibly damaging the alarm or the factory switch.
■H2/C WHITE/BLACK: Once both door lock wires are located and cut, connect the white/black wire to the
master switch side of the lock wire. The master switch side will show (+)12V when the master switch is oper-
ated to the lock position and (-) ground when the master switch is in the middle position.
■H2/D GREEN/BLACK: Connect the green/black wire to the other side of the lock wire. This is the motor side
of the lock wire and it goes to the lock motor through the slave switch.
■H2/E VIOLET/BLACK: This wire must be connected to a constant (+)12 volts. The best connection point for
this wire is the constant (+)12V supply for the door lock switch*, or directly to the positive (+) battery post
with a fuse at the battery post.
*NOTE: Except in GM cars with retained accessory power (RAP). In these vehicles, the (+)12V feed
to the door lock switches is turned off if the doors are closed for any length of time.
NOTE: Most direct-wired power lock systems require 20-30 amps of current to operate. Connecting
the violet/black wire to a poor source of voltage will keep the door locks from operating properly.
■H2/F BROWN/BLACK: Connect the brown/black wire to the master switch side of the unlock wire. The master
switch side will show (+)12V when the master switch is in the unlock position and (-) ground when the
master switch is in the middle position.
■H2/G BLUE/BLACK: Connect the blue/black wire to the other side of the unlock wire.
testing reversing polarity systems

IMPORTANT! The H2/A and H2/B wires are not required for wiring the door locks. For detailed
wiring instructions for these two wires, refer to the beginning of the Door Lock Harness (H2) Wire
Connection Guide section. Depending on the type of door lock system, there may be additional H2
harness wires that are not used for wiring the door locks.
type C: reversing polarity system
NVSL4000 19 - English

NVSL4000
20 - English
NOTE: A GM Resistor Interface Module (GM P/N 12496739) may be used for this type of door
locking system. If using a Resistor Interface Module, use the instruction guide provided with the
Resistor Interface Module for this type of door locking system.
This system is found in 2001 and newer Aztek models. The door lock switch or door key cylinder may contain
either one or two resistors.
If one resistor is used in the door lock switch/key cylinder, the wire will pulse (+)12V in one direction and less
than (+)12V when operated in the opposite direction.
If two resistors are used in the factory door lock switch/key cylinder, the switch/key cylinder will read less than
(+)12V in both directions.
To determine the resistor values, the door lock switch/key cylinder must be isolated from the factory door lock
system. For testing, use a calibrated digital multimeter that is set to ohms.
IMPORTANT! To ensure an accurate resistance reading, do not touch the resistor or leads during
testing.
1. Cut the output wire from the door lock switch/key cylinder in half.
2. Test with the meter from the switch side of the cut door lock switch/key cylinder wire to a reliable constant
(+)12V source. Some good constant (+)12V references are the power input source to the door lock switch/key
cylinder, the ignition switch power wire, or the (+) terminal of the battery.
3. Operate the door lock switch/key cylinder in both directions to determine the resistor values. If the multi-
meter displays zero resistance in one direction, no resistor is needed for that direction.
4. Once the resistor value(s) is determined, refer to the wiring diagram for proper wiring.
IMPORTANT! The H2/A and H2/B wires are not required for wiring the door locks. For detailed
wiring instructions for these two wires, refer to the beginning of the Door Lock Harness (H2) Wire
Connection Guide section. Depending on the type of door lock system, there may be additional H2
harness wires that are not used for wiring the door locks.
determining the proper resistor values
two-resistor type
single-resistor type
type G: positive (+) multiplex