GRAUPNER SYDNEY STAR User manual

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Innhold
1. .........................................................................................................1The full-size vessel
2. .......................................................................................................................1The model
3. ...................................................................................................................1Specification
4. ....................................................................................................2Important safety notes
5. ......................................................................................................2Guarantee conditions
6. ........................2The following points are important and must be observed at all times:
7. ....................................................................................................3Care and maintenance
8. ..........................................................................................3Notes on building the model
9. ....................................................................................................4Assembly instructions
10. .....................................................................................................................10Painting
11. ..........................................................................................................10Colour scheme
12. ..................................................................................................11Applying the decals
13. .........................................................11Instructions for installing the RC components
14. .........................................................................12Possible auxiliary working systems
15. ...............................................................................................................12Maiden run
16. ...................................................................................................................13Parts List
Assembly instructions for the SYDNEY STAR container ship, Order No. 2071
1. The full-size vessel
Container ships such as the SYDNEY STAR are an increasingly common sight on the world‘s oceans,
as the use of standardised containers -they are identical the world over -makes it simple and fast to
load and unload goods. For this reason virtually all merchandise is transported by container
nowadays. For long-distance journeys (Asia -Europe -America) large container ships with vast
transport capacity are employed, which can only be accommodated in particular ports. These ports
are specially equipped for handling containers, and for this reason the vessels require no loading
bridge. The containers are then carried on the remainder of their journey by smaller container ships
(coastal vessels), or by road and rail.
2. The model
The SYDNEY STAR is a semi-scale model of a long-range container ship. It includes all the
characteristic features and details of these vessels, as we wanted the ship to have as realistic an
appearance as possible. Construction of the model is greatly simplified by the high level of pre-
fabrication of the kit‘s components, many of them CNC-machined or laser-cut, plus the many fittings
included in the kit as standard, including winches, companionways and injection-moulded handrails.
Nevertheless, the model is only recommended for the experienced marine modeller. The two
transverse thrusters at bow and stern allow the model to traverse (move sideways) and turn on the
spot without difficulty, without the need for tugs.
3. Specification
Specification
Model Full-size
Length approx. 1135 mm 227 m
Beam approx. 140 mm 28 m
Displacement max. approx. 6 kg
(model incl. RC system)
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
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Scale approx. 1 : 200
4. Important safety notes
You have purchased a kit which can be assembled to produce a fully working RC model when fitted
out with the appropriate accessories. As manufacturers, we at GRAUPNER are not in a position to
influence the way you install, operate and maintain the model, nor the other components used in
connection with the model. For this reason we are obliged to deny all liability for loss, damage or costs
which are incurred due to the incompetent or incorrect use and operation of our products, or which are
connected with such operation in any way. Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation
of the GRAUPNER company to pay compensation, regardless of the legal argument employed, is
excluded. This includes personal injury, death, damage to buildings, loss of trade or turnover,
interruption of business or other indirect or direct damages which are caused by the operation of the
model. Under all circumstances and in all cases the company‘s overall liability is limited to the amount
which you actually paid for this model.
The model is operated at the sole risk of the operator. To avoid injury to persons and damage
to property please handle your model boat carefully and operate it conscientiously at all times.
Before you run the boat for the first time it is important to check that your private third party insurance
policy provides cover when you are operating model boats of this kind. If you are not sure, take out a
special insurance policy designed to cover the risks of RC modelling. These safety notes are
important, and must be kept in a safe place. If you ever dispose of the model, be sure to pass them on
to the new owner.
5. Guarantee conditions
The guarantee covers replacement of any parts which can be shown to exhibit manufacturing faults or
material defects within the guarantee period of 24 months from the initial date of purchase; no other
claims will be considered. Cost of transport, packing and freight are payable by the purchaser. We
accept no liability for damage in transit. When you send the product to GRAUPNER, or to the
approved Service Centre for your country, you must include a clear and concise description of the fault
together with the invoice showing the date of purchase. The guarantee is invalid if the component or
model fails due to an accident, incompetent handling or incorrect usage.
6. The following points are important and must be observed at
all times:
This model is not suitable for young persons under 14 years of age.
NEVER operate this boat when there are persons or animals close by in the water, otherwise
there is a serious risk of injury.
Never run your boat in a protected site, an animal or plant sanctuary or a site of special
scientific interest (SSSI). Check with your local authority that the stretch of water you wish to
use is suitable for model boats.
Do not run the model in salt water. Even the salt-laden sea air can attack your model‘s
technical components, causing oxidation and eventually ruining them.
Never run your boat in adverse conditions, e.g. rain, storm, strong wind, choppy water or strong
currents.
Before you run the model check that the radio control system is working reliably, and that all
connections are secure.
If you are using dry cells as a power source, please note that these must never be recharged.
Only batteries marked specifically as —rechargeable“ can safely be recharged.
It is important to charge the batteries before each session, and to check the range of the radio
control system. The transmitter and receiver batteries in particular must be fully charged at the
start of each run.
Ensure that the channel you intend to use is not already in use by other modellers. Never run
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the boat if you are not certain that your channel is free.
Read and observe the recommendations and instructions supplied with your radio control
system and accessories.
Do not work on the power system unless the motor is disconnected from the drive battery.
When the drive battery is connected, keep well clear of the area around the propeller, as this
represents the greatest risk of accident and injury. Make sure any spectators do the same.
Do not exceed the recommended voltage of the drive battery. Increasing the voltage may cause
the motor and / or the speed controller to overheat, and the electrical leads can even melt. In
the worst case this may cause the model to go up in flames and be completely ruined.
Check that all the drive train components work smoothly and freely. This applies in particular
when you are running the model, as leaves and other detritus can get caught up in the power
train. If this happens and you do not remove the obstruction, the motor, speed controller or
rudder servo may be ruined due to overloading.
Ensure that the servos are not mechanically obstructed at any point in their travel.
Dry cells and rechargeable batteries must never be short-circuited. Do not allow them to come
into direct contact with water.
Allow the drive motor and speed controller to cool down after each run. Don‘t touch the hot
surfaces!
Remove all batteries from the model prior to transporting and storing it.
Do not subject the model to high levels of humidity, heat, cold, vibration or dirt.
Secure the model, batteries and RC equipment carefully when transporting them. They may be
seriously damaged if they are free to slide about.
If you wish to operate the model on moving water (e.g. a river), remember that it could be
washed away downstream if the battery fails or a malfunction occurs.
If you have to salvage the model, take care not to risk your own life or that of others.
Check regularly that the hull is completely watertight, as the model may sink if too much water
enters the hull. Check the boat for damage before every run, and ensure that water cannot
penetrate the hull through the shaft or rudder openings.
Take care to seal the model before every run, so that water cannot enter. Check that the
superstructure cannot slip out of position while the boat is running. Take care also that any
water which does find its way into the hull cannot make contact with the RC components.
Damage caused by water will not be repaired under guarantee.
The parallel-wired drive batteries should only be connected together for the period of the run,
as interference effects may occur between the two packs under no-load conditions, and this
may result in battery damage. This means: keep the batteries separate, and plug them together
only when you are about to run the boat; disconnect them again at the end of each run. It is
important not to store the batteries with the parallel cable connected.
7. Care and maintenance
Clean the model carefully after every run, and remove any water which penetrates the hull. If
water gets into any of the RC components, dry them out and send them to your nearest
GRAUPNER Service Centre for checking.
Clean the model and RC components using suitable cleaning agents only. Ask your model
shop for information.
Lubricate the propeller shafts at regular intervals.
If the model is not to be operated for a considerable time, it is important to dismantle all the
moving parts (propeller shaft etc.), and clean and re-lubricate them.
8. Notes on building the model
This boat is not suitable for beginners to modelling, and for this reason the instructions do not
cover every single step, as we assume that, as an experienced model builder, you will be
familiar with common procedures.
Before you start building the model it is important to study the plan and read right through the
instructions, referring constantly to the parts list. In general terms the instructions and parts list
reflect the sequence of assembly.
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The laser-cut wooden parts are retained in their sheets by small lugs; to avoid splitting the
wood, cut into the lugs on both sides using a sharp knife before cutting right through. The
connecting lugs of the ABS parts can simply be cut straight through.
The laser-cutting process leaves a black cut-line on the wooden parts, but this can easily be
sanded off.
The wooden bulkheads are accurately pre-cut, but it is still necessary to offer them up to the
hull and trim them to fit perfectly where necessary. If these parts are a tight fit they will distort
the hull and spoil the smooth external contours. The trimming process is therefore important,
and should be carried out with great care.
Please take the time to compare the laser-cut parts with the drawings at the end of the building
instructions, and write the part numbers on them.
The wooden parts have to be sealed with GLATTFIX sanding sealer to prevent them absorbing
water. However, the treated surfaces cannot be glued using UHU acrylit or STABILIT express,
so take care to leave joint areas free of sealer. Try to avoid excess adhesive being squeezed
out of joints, as many paints will not adhere properly to areas coated with dried glue. This
applies in particular to the vacuum-moulded parts.
Don‘t throw away the scrap wood, ABS and wire, as many small parts are made from these
materials.
If you intend to fit auxiliary working systems in the boat, it is essential to plan the installation
before you start construction. There is a section at the end of the building instructions which
includes hints and tips on this.
It is very important with this model to keep the Centre of Gravity as low as possible. Whenever
you are working above the waterline, this means that you should use no more adhesive than
necessary, and use the lightest materials possible.
Please bear in mind that many tools can be dangerous if misused or handled carelessly.
Each electric motor must be suppressed by fitting a 470 nF capacitor (Order No. 3588): solder
the capacitor across the motor terminals to form a bridge (as shown in a sketch on the plan).
Deploy all electrical cables neatly, without crossing them over. Take great care to avoid any
bare positive wire touching any negative wire.
Be sure to use cable which is capable of carrying the high currents which flow when the boat is
operating.
Deploy the receiver aerial as far away as possible from any high-current cables (at least 3 cm).
The propeller shaft system must be lubricated; be sure to use only a type of grease or oil which
does not soil or contaminate water (e.g. Order No. 570).
Before gluing parts together it is important to clean the joint surfaces carefully. This is best done
by sanding lightly, followed by wiping with a non-greasy liquid detergent. The same applies to
all surfaces which are to be painted, as this improves the paint‘s adhesion considerably. Before
gluing the power system components to the hull it is essential to roughen the surfaces by
rubbing with fine abrasive paper, and to remove all traces of grease with white spirit. There is
little chance of obtaining durable glued joints if you ignore this advice.
Recommended adhesives for joining particular materials:
Material - material Suitable adhesives
Metal -metal Cyano-acrylate, UHU plus
ABS -wood Cyano-acrylate, UHU acrylit
ABS -ABS Cyano-acrylate, UHU acrylit, UHU plast spezial
ABS -metal Cyano-acrylate, UHU acrylit
Wood -wood Cyano-acrylate, UHU hart, white glue
Wood -metal Cyano-acrylate
Metal -paper UHU alleskleber
Read the instructions supplied with the adhesives. Be sure to observe any special notes in the instructions regarding particular
types of glue. If you are using acetone, white spirit or any other solvent as a cleaning agent, special safety measures are
necessary. Read the instructions supplied with these materials.
9. Assembly instructions
1. Assemble the boatstand from the two end supports (part 1) and the connecting pieces (part 2),
and trim the support surfaces so that the hull is a snug fit in the stand. TIP: the support surfaces
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for the hull can be lined with soft felt or foam rubber to avoid scratching the hull surface. This is
particularly important once you have painted the hull.
2. Cut out the two halves of the bow bulge (part 3). Sand the joint areas perfectly flat, then glue
the shells together. Apply plenty of UHU acrylit over the inside of the glued joint for extra
strength. Glue the bow bulge to the hull (part 4). If the bulge is not quite wide enough to fit the
hull, use pieces of scrap ABS material to spread the moulding. Ensure that the bow bulge is
aligned correctly with the hull centreline, and take care to make the joints as neat as possible.
Allow the glue to set hard, then apply two-pack filler paste (e.g. Order No. 924) to the
transitional area and sand it smooth.
3. Cut out the half-shells of the rudder blade (part 5) and sand the joint areas perfectly flat. Cut the
shaft supports (part 6) from scrap ABS and glue them inside one rudder shell. Cut the rudder
shaft (part 7) to length, sand it over the joint area, and glue it in one rudder blade shell. Ensure
that the shaft is aligned exactly straight; you may need to sand slight flats into both sides of it to
allow the rudder shells to fit together. When you are satisfied, glue the second rudder shell to
the first.
4. Insert the shaft bush (part 8) in the shaft support (part 9); the bush should project by about 2
mm on the underside. Fit the rudder in the bush, adjust its position carefully, then tack the bush
to the support with a drop of cyano. Trim the reinforcement (part 10) so that it is a snug fit, then
glue it in place permanently. The pivot bush assembly can now be glued in the hull. Use plenty
of UHU acrylit to ensure that all the joints are sound, and that there is no possibility of leaks.
Slip the rudder in the bush and fit the tiller (part 11) on the top end to hold it in position.
5. The next step is to assemble the power system. Open up the slots in the long sides of the
motor mount (part 12), which also forms the stern tube support, and fit the two M2 screws and
nuts which are used later to hold the stern tube in place. Attach the shaft coupling (part 14) to
the motor (part 13), then fix the motor to the motor mount using the retaining screws (part 15).
Place the stern tube (part 16) on the motor mount, and position it so that only the threaded part
of the shaft is exposed at the rear end. Chamfer the motor mount in the area of the two sleeves
so that it rests snugly against the hull sides. Solder the suppressor capacitor (part 17) and the
power cables (part 18) to the main drive motor. The motor train assembly can now be glued in
the hull using cyano; apply plenty of UHU acrylit to the inside of the area where the stern tube
exits the hull, forming a watertight seal.
6. The central bulkhead framework can now be assembled. It consists of the main bulkheads (part
19), the short fairing strips (part 20), the medium fairing strip (part 21) and the long fairing strips
(part 22). Please refer to the plan at this point, as it clearly shows the correct position of the
fairing strips relative to the bulkheads. Note that the fairing strips should fit fully in the notches,
so that they are flush with the outside of the bulkheads. Glue the joints, allow the glue to set
hard, then sand back the fairing strips flush with the bulkheads. IMPORTANT: the completed
bulkhead framework must now be trimmed to follow the internal shape of the hull exactly; it
must not press against the hull. When you are satisfied, glue the assembly in the hull using
cyano. Check that all the fairing strips make contact with the hull without forcing it out of shape.
a. Brukte Casco lim
7. The main bulkhead framework can now be assembled. This consists of the front bulkhead (part
23), the rear bulkhead (part 24) and the inner fairing strips (part 25). Please refer to the plan at
this point, as it clearly shows the correct position of the fairing strips relative to the bulkheads.
The completed bulkhead framework must now be trimmed to follow the internal shape of the
hull exactly; it must not press against the hull. The fairing strips must again lie flush with the
bulkheads. Glue this assembly in the hull.
a. Part 25 ble litt for lang. Snakket med Øgrey. Han sa jeg skulle
tilpasse til båten(mail 3/4-14). Kuttet del 25 lengde fra 640 til
615mm.
8. The rear bulkhead framework can now be assembled. This consists of the servo former (part
26), the two servo mounting plates (part 27), the rear bulkhead (part 28) and the rear fairing
strips (part 29). Insert the servo mounting plates in the servo former and glue the joints with
cyano. Place the two bulkheads in the hull and sand them to match the curvature of the hull
sides. IMPORTANT: ensure that the position and height of the bulkheads relative to each other
is exactly as shown on the plan, otherwise the deck will not rest evenly on top of them. Tack the
bulkheads in the correct position with a drop of cyano; they must not be fixed permanently at
this stage. Now lay the rear fairing strips on the bulkheads; trim them carefully to fit, so that they
rest in place without tension, and do not exert pressure on the hull. Lay the strips on a flat
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surface and then glue the bulkheads to them in the correct position. This process ensures that
the support surface for the deck is perfectly straight; you may now find that you need to trim the
bulkheads slightly so that they fit in the hull without pushing it out of shape. When you are
satisfied, the whole assembly can be glued permanently to the hull. IMPORTANT: take care to
avoid distorting the moulding during this procedure, and to maintain the overall width (beam) of
the hull.
9. The front bulkhead framework can now be assembled. This consists of the bow bulkhead (part
30), the upper fairing strips (part 31) and the lower fairing strip (part 32). Place the bow
bulkhead in the hull and sand the edges to follow the taper of the hull sides. IMPORTANT:
ensure that the position and height of the bulkheads relative to each other is exactly as shown
on the plan, otherwise the deck will not rest evenly on top of them. Tack the bulkhead in the
correct position with a drop of cyano; it must not be fixed permanently at this stage. Lay the
front fairing strips on the bulkheads; you may need to make minor adjustments here. Insert the
lower fairing strip in the bulkheads, and check that everything fits together properly, and is
correctly positioned. The fairing strips and the bulkhead can now be glued permanently.
10. The transverse bow and stern thrusters (part 33) can now be installed in the hull. IMPORTANT:
they must be an easy fit, without placing stress on the hull; you may need to trim the openings
in the hull sides to obtain a good fit. Be sure to suppress the transverse thrusters as described
for the main drive motor; fit the power cables in the usual way.
11. Screw the rudder servo (part 34) to the servo plate. Make up the rudder linkage from the
pushrod (part 35), the plastic retaining clip (part 36) and the pushrod connector (part 37). Bend
one end of the wire pushrod at right-angles, fit the angled end in the hole in the tiller, and
secure it with the plastic clip. Screw the pushrod connector to the servo output arm. Cut the
pushrod to length: it must pass right through the pushrod connector. Set the rudder and servo
to centre, and lock the screw in the connector.
12. Glue the coamings 1 to 7 (parts 39 to 45) to the main deck (part 38) using cyano; the correct
position is defined by the tabs and slots.
13. Glue together the bow partitions 1 to 3 (parts 46 to 48), and glue the completed assembly to the
deck.
14. Glue together the stern partitions 1 to 3 (parts 49 to 51), and glue the completed assembly to
the deck. NOTE: gently bend the projecting ends of the coaming sections (part 40) beforehand.
15. Glue the coamings 1 to 5 (parts 53 to 57) to the forecastle deck (part 52) using cyano; the
correct position is defined by the tabs and slots.
16. Glue the coamings 1 to 4 (parts 59 to 62) to the after deck (part 58) using cyano; the correct
position is defined by the tabs and slots.
17. The three decks can now be trimmed to follow the shape of the hull. It is important that the
decks fit properly; they should be in the correct position relative to the hull, and must also rest
on the fairing strips. When you are satisfied, the decks can be glued in place permanently.
18. Cut out the hatch cover (part 63), and trim it so that it rests snugly on the forecastle deck
coaming. The hatch cover should be attached using double-sided tape -after the model has
been painted -so that it can be removed at any time for maintenance purposes.
19. Cut out the windshield (part 64) and the swimming pool (part 65). Glue the baseplate (part 66)
in the windshield. Cut the water surface (part 67) from the clear blue plastic; the —water“ must
be trimmed accurately, so that it fits in the swimming pool without gaps. Once the pool has
been painted, it is fixed in place using clear lacquer. The swimming pool assembly should be
fixed in place on the painted model using double-sided tape, so that it can be removed at any
time for maintenance purposes.
20. Cut out the three small stowage boxes (part 68) and the large stowage box (part 69) and glue
them on the forecastle deck and after deck at the marked positions.
21. Cut out the breakwater (part 70) and glue it on the forecastle deck at the marked point.
22. Cut out the companionway housings (part 71) and glue them on the forecastle deck at the
marked points; the entrances must face the stern.
23. Cut the scupper openings in the bulwarks, and the triangular openings under the forward edge
of the after deck, as shown on the plan. Cut the handrails (part 72) to length, and glue them to
the deck. TIP: it is not easy to attach the handrails at the bow; it is easier if you sand off one
rail, starting at the edge of the hatch cover. It looks best if the transition is at an angle, as
shown on the plan.
24. Make the pulley baseplates (part 73) from scrap ABS, and cut the return pulleys (part 74) from
the white injection-moulded sprue. Glue the baseplates to the forecastle deck and the after
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deck just inside the elongated openings in the bulwark, and glue the return pulleys on them
(three each side at the bow, two each side at the stern).
25. Glue the companionways (part 75) to the hull as shown on the plan; they should stand at an
angle of around 60°. Note that the companionway on the main deck should be glued to the bow
partition (part 48) in such a way that one segment of the railing fits between the hull and the
companionway.
26. The railings (part 76) can now be glued to the hull as shown on the plan; they are fitted in
individual units, or segments. The dividing points of the railing are clearly shown on the plan.
27. Glue the four doors (part 77) to the hull as shown on the plan, and glue two more to the
companionway housings.
28. Glue together the bottom sections (part 78) of the control bridges in stacks of four. Attach the
narrow control bridges (part 79) and the wide control bridge (part 80) in place centrally. Glue
the companionways (part 75) to the angled areas. Cut railing segments (part 76) to length and
fix them to the control bridges.
29. Glue together the bottom sections of the control bridge 2 (part 82) in stacks of three, then
attach these assemblies to the ends of the control bridge bottom section 1. Glue the stern
control bridge (part 83) centrally to the bottom section. Glue the companionways (part 75) to the
side walls, and sand them back slightly so that they project like ladders. Cut segments of railing
(part 76) to length and glue them to the control bridge. Glue one door (part 78) to each of the
bottom sections 2. All the control bridges are eventually glued in place, but only after the model
has been painted.
30. Container block 1 is assembled from parts 1 -1 to 1 -11 (parts 84 to 94). First glue part of the
outer wall (parts 85 and 88) to the baseplate (part 84), then add the side panels (part 86). Tape
the joints to prevent them springing apart. Glue the inside walls (parts 87 and 89) in place, then
fit the roof panels (parts 90 and 91). When the glue has set hard, the lower walls (parts 92 to
94) can be added. NOTE: take care not to apply too much glue on the inside of the joints, as
this would obstruct the coamings.
31. The two container blocks 2 are assembled from parts 2 -1 to 2 -6 (parts 95 to 100). First glue
part of the outer wall (parts 96) to the baseplate (part 95), then add the side panels (part 97).
Tape the joints to prevent them springing apart. Glue the inside walls (parts 98) in place, then fit
the roof panels (parts 99). When the glue has set hard, the lower walls (parts 100) can be
added. NOTE: take care not to apply too much glue on the inside of the joints, as this would
obstruct the coamings.
32. Container block 3 is assembled from parts 3 -1 to 3 -5 (parts 101 to 105). First glue part of the
outer wall (part 102) to the baseplate (part 101), then add the side panels (part 103). Tape the
joints to prevent them springing apart. Fit the roof panel (parts 104). When the glue has set
hard, the lower walls (parts 105) can be added. NOTE: take care not to apply too much glue on
the inside of the joints, as this would obstruct the coamings.
33. Container block 4 is assembled from parts 4 -1 to 4 -3 (parts 106 to 108). First glue part of the
outer wall (parts 107) to the roof plate (part 106), then add the side panels (part 108). Tape the
joints together to prevent them springing apart. NOTE: take care not to apply too much glue on
the inside of the joints, as this would obstruct the coamings.
34. The container blocks can now be clad using the corrugated vacuum-moulded sheets (part 109).
Container blocks 1 and 4 should be clad with the textured sheets for the 20-foot containers,
while blocks 2 and 3 are clad with those for the 40-foot containers. TIP: carefully sand the
rounded corrugations of the textured sheets to obtain a flat outer surface; this simulates the
square-section sheets of the full-size containers.
35. The profiled frame strips (part 110) can now be glued to the container blocks. Cut the strips to
the required length and glue them to the underside of the blocks.
36. Cut out the container supports (part 111). They should be glued to the deck in such a way that
the ends support the projecting containers. The supports should be inclined at a slight angle
inwards.
37. NOTE: if you intend to illuminate the bridge from the inside, you should paint the inside of the
walls and decks black before starting construction, otherwise the light will shine through the
ABS panels.
38. The superstructure can now be assembled. Glue the wide superstructure walls (part 112), the
front superstructure wall (part 113) and the rear superstructure wall (part 114) to the
superstructure baseplate (part 115). Ensure that everything is at right-angles. Bend the glazed
bridge panel forward slightly. NOTE: this must be carried out with extreme care, as the window
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frames can easily break. Cracked frames can be repaired with a little cyano.
39. Glue together the two companionway walls 1 and 2 (parts 116 and 117) and the companionway
floors (part 118). Note that these two assemblies must form a mirror-image pair. Glue one door
(part 77) to the wall at each floor level. These assemblies can now be glued in the
superstructure.
40. Glue the deck baseplate (part 119) in the superstructure, resting on the companionway walls;
ensure that the plate is not distorted or curved. Glue one companionway (part 75) on each deck
level.
41. Glue together the back superstructure wall 1 (part 120), the deck panel (part 121) and the back
superstructure wall 2 (part 122); this assembly can then be glued to the deck baseplate. Glue
two doors (part 77) to each back wall.
42. Glue the side decks (part 123) to the superstructure, then glue the railings 1 -1 to 1 -3 (parts
124 to 126) to the side decks. Cut segments of railing (part 76) to fit in the open area, and glue
railing segments to the top of the deck baseplate (part 119) in the area of the companionway.
43. Glue the railing 2 -1 (part 128) to the bridge deck (part 127), then glue the deck to the
superstructure. Glue the railings 2 -2 and 2 -3 (parts 129 and 130) to the bridge deck
outriggers.
44. Glue the side bridge walls (part 131) and the back bridge wall (part 132) to the bridge deck.
Ensure that the bridge glazing panel is bent in a straight line over its full length. Glue the three
doors (part 77) to the bridge.
45. The whole superstructure should now be filled and sanded smooth, as this is much more
difficult to do later.
46. Glue the braces 1 (part 133) to the bottom of the wide area of the side deck (part 123), as
shown on the plan.
47. Glue the braces 2 (part 134) to the bottom of the bridge outriggers as shown on the plan.
48. Glue the twelve doors (part 77) to the superstructure as shown on the plan.
49. Glue two companionways (part 75) between the bridge deck (part 127) and the deck panel (part
121). Glue two companionways (part 75) between the deck panel (part 121) and the deck
baseplate (part 119).
50. Assemble the davits (part 135), modify them as shown on the plan, and glue them to the side
decks (part 123). Cut two pieces of scrap ABS sheet 6 x 4 mm in size, and glue them to the
angled davit arms to form supports for the liferafts (part 136). Glue the two liferafts (part 137) to
the supports.
51. Cut out the two ventilator caps (parts 138) and sand them flat. Cut the two ventilator shafts (part
139) to length from the 8 mm Ø aluminium tube supplied. Glue the tubes centrally to the caps,
then fix the two ventilators to the deck baseplate (part 119) as shown on the plan.
52. Glue the railings 3 -1 to 3 -3 (parts 141 to 143) to the navigation deck (part 140). Place the
completed navigation deck on the bridge, set it straight and tape it in place; glue two
companionways (part 75) to the back bridge wall (part 132). NOTE: the navigation deck should
be glued in place, but only after the superstructure has been painted and the bridge glazing
fixed. For the same reason do not glue the companionways to the navigation deck at this stage.
53. Glue the funnel side panels (part 145), the back panel (part 146), the front panel (part 147) and
the pipe plate (part 148) to the funnel baseplate (part 144). NOTE: two versions of the pipe
plate are supplied: the one with the 8 mm Ø hole is for the normal version, while that with the 9
mm Ø hole is for the version with smoke generator (Order No. 2324), which is an optional extra.
Allow the glued joints to set hard, then sand the top face of the funnel at a slight angle. Glue the
large exhaust pipe (part 149) and the two small pipes (part 150) in the pipe plate. Glue four
companionways (part 75) to the funnel back panel, and two more to the top of the side panel.
Sand these away slightly to simulate ventilation grilles. The funnel can be glued to the
superstructure once painting is complete.
54. Cut out the bridge mast (part 151) and the transverse support (part 153), and sand them flat.
Glue a piece of scrap ABS to the mast to form the back panel (part 152). Allow the glue to set
hard, then cut off the projecting edges of the back panel and sand them back flush. Glue the
transverse support to the mast, taking care to keep it straight. The platform (part 154) can now
be glued in place. Cut railing segments (part 76) to size, and glue them to the platform. NOTE:
for the short pieces of railing between the front and rear sections it is best to cut out a segment
with a strut left in the centre. The radar antennas (part 155) can now be glued to the antenna
bases (part 156); the antenna assemblies can then be fixed to the roof plate, setting them at
different heights. Glue a door (part 77) to the bottom of the back wall. Drill 1.5 mm Ø holes in
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the sides of the mast, as shown on the plan. Glue a lamp (part 158) to one end of each lamp
support (part 157), and glue the completed lamp assemblies in the holes in the mast. Drill a 0.8
mm Ø hole in the rear of the transverse support to take the flag mast (part 159) and glue the
mast in place. The completed mast should be glued to the navigation deck, but only after
painting is complete.
55. Cut out the bow mast (part 160) and sand it flat. Cut a piece of scrap ABS sheet to form the
back panel (part 161), as for the bridge mast, and glue the parts together. Now use a fine saw
(e.g. a junior hacksaw blade) to cut a straight transverse slot in the mast to accept the lower
platform (part 162), and glue the platform in the slot. Glue the upper platform (part 163) at the
top of the mast, taking care to align it correctly. Attach two doors (part 77) to the mast: one at
the top and the other at the centre platform. Cut railing segments (part 76) to fit, and glue them
to both platforms. Glue three lamps (part 165) to the lamp support (part 164). Drill a 1.5 mm Ø
hole in the upper platform on the bow mast, and glue the lamp assembly in it. The mast is
eventually glued to the forecastle deck, but only after painting is complete.
56. Cut out the lifeboats (part 166) and the boat covers (part 167), and glue the two parts together.
Note that the boats must fit inside the covers; sand back the outside edges of the boats slightly
if necessary. Rudder blades can also be made from scrap ABS and glued to the lifeboats if you
wish. Fix the boats to the davits when painting is complete.
57. Assemble the right and left anchor winches (parts 168 and 169) and glue the joints. Assemble
four right-hand deck winches (part 170) and two left-hand deck winches (part 171); these are
glued to the decks in the positions shown on the plan, but only after painting is complete. Cut
two pieces of anchor chain (part 172) about 10 cm long, and glue them on the deck in the
positions shown. They look best if painted or chemically browned beforehand.
58. Glue the 18 double bollards (part 173) to the decks as shown on the plan.
59. Cut five pulleys from the anchor winches to form the cable return pulleys (part 174), and glue
them to the decks at the marked points.
60. Glue three lamps (part 176) to the stern lamp mast (part 175), drill a 1.5 mm Ø hole in the after
deck and glue the lamp mast in it.
61. Cut the two position lamp plates (part 177) from scrap ABS, and glue the position lamps (part
178) to them. After painting, these should be glued to the bridge outriggers.
62. Cut the flag mast (part 179) from the 0.8 mm Ø brass rod supplied, drill a matching hole in the
deck base-plate (part 119) and glue the mast in it. TIP: make the flag from paper and colour it
using felt-tip pens. The relatively weak colours represent the typical bleached and washed-out
colours of ship flags very effectively. The colours of the Bahamian flag are as follows: black
triangle, blue outer stripes, yellow inner stripes. Glue the flag in place, then curve it carefully
into the typical wavy pattern of a wind-blown flag before applying a coat of clear lacquer to
protect it.
63. The navigation compass (part 180) is simulated by a short piece of 1.5 mm Ø ABS rod glued in
a 2 mm Ø aluminium tube. Sand it to a rounded shape as shown, cut the tube to length and
glue it to the navigation deck.
64. Cut the two winch bases (part 181) from scrap ABS. Cut two pulleys from the injection-moulded
sprue to form the lifebelt winches (part 182), and glue them on the bases. The completed
winches should be glued adjacent to the lifeboats.
65. Paint the lifebelts (part 183), and glue them to the inside of the railing and the bulwarks in
suitable positions. They should be located at points where a crew member could throw a lifebelt
overboard without difficulty.
66. Drill a hole in the underside of each anchor hawse to accept the anchors (part 184), and trim
the holes carefully so that the anchor shafts are a snug fit in them. Glue the anchors in place
using cyano, taking care to seal the holes completely.
67. Screw the propeller (part 185) to the shaft. Alternatively you could install the 5-bladed screw
(Order No. 2298.40); however, this propeller provides greatly increased thrust, and in this case
you should operate the motor on no more than 6 or 7.2 Volts.
68. Cut the glazing panels (part 186) from the translucent grey plastic as shown on the plan, and
glue them in the superstructure using UHU Alleskleber. TIP: a good method of positioning the
glazing panels accurately is to apply a patch of double-sided tape to your fingertip, and then
stick the glazing panel to the tape; this allows you to get the panel into a tight corner without
any problem. At this stage the navigation deck can be glued to the glazed bridge, and both
masts can be fitted.
69. If you wish, you can now make additional detail fittings from the remaining scrap material, and
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fit them to the model; for example, companionway railings can be simulated using spare 0.8
mm Ø brass wire. However, this is very delicate work, and is only likely to be successful if you
are an experienced model builder.
70. With all the RC system components installed, place the boat in water (e.g. the bathtub), and
check the level at which it floats. You will probably need to fit additional lead ballast to persuade
the model to float at the marked waterline. Good ballast weights are Order No. 536 or metal
profiles such as Order No. 717.14 (220 g/m) or 519.80 (400 g/m); these can easily be cut down
to the required size. You should also carry out a capsize test while the boat is in the water: tilt
the completed model at an angle of heel of around 30°, then release it. From this attitude it
should right itself easily, without rocking for too long.
10. Painting
We recommend that you ask your local model shop (or specialist paint supplier) for advice
on the best types of paint to use.
Use ONLY paints of the same type, made by the same manufacturer, otherwise they may
react with each other; dissolving the earlier coats or producing unsightly bubbles. Be
particularly careful when combining spray cans and brushing paints; if in any doubt, always
establish whether the paints are compatible beforehand by carrying out a check on some
scrap material.
To ensure that the paint adheres well, it is essential to sand the surfaces with fine wet-and-
dry paper (600grit or 800-grit), then de-grease them using a non-greasy cleaning agent or
white spirit. Try not to touch the cleaned surfaces again before painting, as your skin will just
apply new grease to the surface.
It makes sense to paint the small parts separately, and only then to glue them to the model.
Wherever possible, the larger parts should also be painted before continuing with the next
stage, as this can save you hours of work with masking tape later on.
The bridge superstructure must be sprayed before the glazing panels are fitted; the panels
can then be glued in place when the paint is dry.
Do bear in mind that parts glued to painted surfaces can only adhere as well as the paint
sticks to the model, i.e. such parts are often knocked off, tearing the paint from the model at
the same time. Parts which are exposed and vulnerable should be glued directly to the sub-
surface, i.e. the paint should be scratched off beforehand.
Apply several coats of sanding sealer (e.g. GLATTFIX, Order No. 207) or clear lacquer (e.g.
HYDROAEROFIX, Order No. 926.1) to all the wooden parts to prevent them absorbing
water.
When spraying paint, take care to mask off all areas which are not to be coloured. Seal all
openings, as the fine mist of paint finds its way into any opening, no matter how small.
Read and observe the instructions supplied by the paint manufacturer.
IMPORTANT: please take the time to consider how and in what sequence you ought to paint
the model and do this before starting construction. There are areas on the model which can
only be painted with great difficulty, or even not at all, at a later stage.
11. Colour scheme
The recommended colours are stated below with their RAL numbers, to help ensure that you
can select the correct hues. Armed with this information, any paint supplier will be able to
produce the right colours for you. Let your specialist paint supplier or advisor know what you
intend to use the paints for, as this will help him select the correct type. We always
recommend synthetic enamels. The RAL colours listed below are our recommendation, but
you can, of course, finish the boat in any colour scheme you like. Container ships generally
differ only in the colour of the exposed hull and the funnel scheme. The submerged hull is
always the same colour, and the decks are usually grey, dark green or dark red. For the deck
and submerged hull the paint should have a dead matt finish, while semi-matt (silk) paints are
ideal for the other colours.
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Exposed hull:
Submerged hull:
Deck:
Superstructure, masts, control bridges,
small items, funnel ring:
Funnel, mast peaks, bollards:
Winches:
Pool:
Lifeboats:
Lifebelts:
Containers:
RAL 5012, light blue
RAL 3009, red oxide
RAL 7030, stone grey
RAL 9010, pure white
RAL 9005, solid black
RAL 7005, mouse grey
RAL 6027, light green
RAL 1018, zinc yellow
RAL 3026, fluorescent red
RAL 9006, white aluminium, or other usa
colours at the
b
uilder‘s discretion
(they are usually grey, red, green, blue or
white)
12. Applying the decals
Cut out the individual decals neatly using a pair of sharp scissors, leaving as little margin round them
as possible. They should be applied to the model‘s surface once painting is complete; all traces of
dust must be removed beforehand. The decals can be persuaded to take up the corrugated pattern of
the containers by temporarily fixing one end and then pressing it into place furrow by furrow using a
scrap piece of ABS (the rubbing surface must be rounded). This procedure does require care and a
delicate hand.
13. Instructions for installing the RC components
The actual RC plan is an integral part of the main drawing, and describes the installation of the RC
components for the basic running functions, as well as the accessories for the SYDNEY STAR‘s
auxiliary working systems. The parts required for the running functions are included in the kit, as are
other small items, some of which need to be cut out and prepared before fitting. The remaining parts
can either be purchased separately or made from scrap material. Details of installing the RC
components and making the other parts are not supplied in full, since we assume that the procedures
will be familiar to the experienced modeller for whom the boat is intended.
The RC plan should only be considered as a starting point for the selection and location of the
RC components. At the builder‘s discretion, different components can be used to control the
basic running functions and the auxiliary working systems.
The rudder servo should be mounted using the retaining screws supplied with it.
The other RC components, including the receiver, speed controller and batteries, should be
secured in the model using Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape. Secure retention is particularly
important in the case of the heavy drive batteries, as the model could capsize if the batteries
were to move and alter its Centre of Gravity.
It is important to make every effort not to exceed the all-up weight of 6 kg, and the model‘s
Centre of Gravity should always be as low as possible. This means that no heavy components
should be installed above the waterline unless there is absolutely no other alternative.
If you intend to install a working lighting system, it is important to plan the arrangement before
you start building the model, as these systems are extremely difficult, if not impossible, to
install at a later stage.
To control the lighting system we recommend the use of RC switches (e.g. Order No. 3294) or
servo-operated micro-switches (e.g. Order No. 3757).
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14. Possible auxiliary working systems
Auxiliary function Extra items required Installation and operation
Sound module Tug sound module
(Order No. 2465),
loudspeaker (Order No.
2355), 12 V power
supply from the main
drive battery.
The loudspeaker must be arranged in such a way
that the outside of the cone has no direct air-
connection to the inside of the cone (acoustic short-
circuit), i.e. it should be fitted in a similar way to a
loudspeaker cabinet. We recommend that you install
the loudspeaker below the deck in the bow area.
Use double-sided adhesive tape to fix the vacuum-
moulded loudspeaker box to the underside of the
main deck in the area of the first container block.
Interior lighting set
(Order
Interior lighting for the Make supports from scrap ABS material for the inte
bridge superstructure No. 351 or Order No.
635), 2 V power supply
from a lead-acid battery
(e.g. Order No. 793).
Rior lighting, and attach the lamps to these using
double-sided adhesive tape. IMPORTANT: if you
wish to illuminate the bridge superstructure, it is
essential to paint the inside of the entire
superstructure black, otherwise the light will shine
through the ABS panels.
Funnel smoke Smoke generator (Order Glue the smoke generator in the 9 mm Ø hole in the
No. 2324), 6 V power alternative funnel pipe plate, and connect it to an On
/
supply from the main Off switch.
Optional accessories for the auxiliary working systems
The parts listed in the table are not included in the kit and have to be acquired separately. Other necessary accessories such as
connectors, cable etc., are not listed separately here; experienced model builders will have their own stocks of such materials.
15. Maiden run
Give the batteries a full charge, and check that the model‘s working systems operate correctly, and
that adequate effective radio range is available. Trim the model by adjusting the position of the drive
batteries until the boat floats exactly level in the water. Now you can start the motors and head out on
the maiden run. Take your time to get used to the model‘s running characteristics and handling; run it
slowly and cautiously at first until you feel familiar and confident with your new boat. All of us hope you
have many hours of pleasure building and running your SYDNEY STAR.
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16. Parts List
No. Description No.
off Material Size and thickness in mm
1End support, boatstand 2 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
2Connecting piece, boatstand 2 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
3Bow bulge shell 2 ABS Vac. moulded
4 Hull 1 ABS Vac. moulded
5 Rudder blade shell 2 ABS Vac. moulded
6 Support piece 2 ABS Approx. 30 x 10 mm, make from scrap
7 Rudder shaft 1 Brass Round section, 3 Ø x 80 mm
8 Shaft bush 1 Brass Tube, 4 / 3 Ø x 32 mm
9 Shaft support 1 ABS Laser-cut
10 Reinforcement 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
11 Tiller 1 Plastic Ready made
12 Motor mount 1 Plastic Ready made
13 Motor 1 Accessory Order No. 1788
14 Shaft coupling 1 Aluminium Ready made
15 Retaining screw 2 Metal M3 x 8 mm
16 Stern tube 1 Metal Ready made
17 Suppressor capacitor 1 Accessory Order No. 3588
18 Motor power cable 2 Accessory Order No. 3389
19 Main bulkhead 3 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
20 Short fairing strip 4 Spruce 4 x 12 x 340 mm
21 Medium fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 430 mm
22 Long fairing strip 1 Spruce 4 x 12 x 500 mm
23 Front bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
24 Rear bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
25 Inner fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 640 mm
26 Servo former 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
27 Servo mounting plate 2 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
28 Stern bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
29 Rear fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 270 mm
30 Bow bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
31 Front fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 220 mm
32 Bottom fairing strip 1 Spruce 4 x 12 x 150 mm
34 Rudder servo 1 Accessory In RC set, or Order No. 4101
35 Rudder pushrod 1 Steel rod 1.5 Ø x approx. 100 mm
36 Retaining clip 1 Plastic Ready made
37 Pushrod connector 1 Metal Ready made
38 Main deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
39 Coaming 1 (main deck) 7 ABS Laser-cut
40 Coaming 2 (main deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
41 Coaming 3 (main deck) 2 ABS Laser-cut
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42 Coaming 4 (main deck) 2 ABS Laser-cut
43 Coaming 5 (main deck) 2 ABS Laser-cut
44 Coaming 6 (main deck) 4 ABS Laser-cut
45 Coaming 7 (main deck) 2 ABS Laser-cut
46 Bow partition 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
47 Bow partition 2 1 ABS Laser-cut
48 Bow partition 3 1 ABS Laser-cut
49 Stern partition 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
50 Stern partition 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
51 Stern partition 3 1 ABS Laser-cut
52 Forecastle deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
53 Coaming 1 (forecastle deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
54 Coaming 2 (forecastle deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
55 Coaming 3 (forecastle deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
56 Coaming 4 (forecastle deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
57 Coaming 5 (forecastle deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
58 After deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
59 Coaming 1 (after deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
60 Coaming 2 (after deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
61 Coaming 3 (after deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
62 Coaming 4 (after deck) 1 ABS Laser-cut
63 Hatch cover 1 ABS Vac. moulded
64 Windshield 1 ABS Vac. moulded
65 Swimming pool 1 ABS Vac. moulded
66 Base plate 1 ABS Laser-cut
67 Dummy water surface 1 Plastic Vac. moulded
68 Small stowage box 3 ABS Vac. moulded
69 Large stowage box 1 ABS Vac. moulded
70 Breakwater 1 ABS Vac. moulded
71 Companionway housing 2 ABS Vac. moulded
72 Handrail 8 ABS Angle section, 1.5 x 1.5 mm, actual lengths
vary
73 Return pulley baseplate 4 ABS 4 x 13 mm, make from scrap
74 Return pulley 10 Plastic 3 Ø x 4 mm, inj. moulded
75 Companionway 18 Plastic 3.5 x 60 mm, actual lengths vary
76 Railing 24 Plastic 4 x 150 mm, actual lengths vary
77 Door 40 ABS Laser-cut
78 Control bridge, bottom 12 ABS Laser-cut
79 Control bridge, narrow 2 ABS Laser-cut
80 Control bridge, wide 1 ABS Laser-cut
81 Control bridge, bottom 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
82 Control bridge, bottom 2 6 ABS Laser-cut
83 Stern control bridge 1 ABS Laser-cut
84 Container block 1 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
85 Container block 1 œ 2 1 ABS Laser-cut
86 Container block 1 œ 3 4 ABS Laser-cut
87 Container block 1 œ 4 1 ABS Laser-cut
88 Container block 1 œ 5 1 ABS Laser-cut
89 Container block 1 œ 6 1 ABS Laser-cut
90 Container block 1 œ 7 1 ABS Laser-cut
91 Container block 1 œ 8 1 ABS Laser-cut
92 Container block 1 œ 9 2 ABS Laser-cut
93 Container block 1 œ 10 2 ABS Laser-cut
94 Container block 1 œ 11 2 ABS Laser-cut
95 Container block 2 œ 1 2 ABS Laser-cut
96 Container block 2 œ 2 4 ABS Laser-cut
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97 Container block 2 œ 3 8 ABS Laser-cut
98 Container block 2 œ 4 4 ABS Laser-cut
99 Container block 2 œ 5 4 ABS Laser-cut
100 Container block 2 œ 6 4 ABS Laser-cut
101 Container block 3 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
102 Container block 3 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
103 Container block 3 œ 3 4 ABS Laser-cut
104 Container block 3 œ 4 1 ABS Laser-cut
105 Container block 3 œ 5 2 ABS Laser-cut
106 Container block 4 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
107 Container block 4 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
108 Container block 4 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
109 Corrugated sheet, container 8 ABS Vac. moulded
110 Profiled frame strip 6 ABS Laser-cut, actual lengths vary
111 Container support 14 ABS Vac. moulded
112 Superstructure side wall 2 ABS Laser-cut
113 Superstructure front wall 1 ABS Laser-cut
114 Superstructure rear wall 1 ABS Laser-cut
115 Superstructure baseplate 1 ABS Laser-cut
116 Companionway wall 1 2 ABS Laser-cut
117 Companionway wall 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
118 Companionway floor 4 ABS Laser-cut
119 Deck baseplate 1 ABS Laser-cut
120 Superstructure back wall 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
121 Deck panel 1 ABS Laser-cut
122 Superstructure back wall 2 1 ABS Laser-cut
123 Side deck 2 ABS Laser-cut
124 Railing 1œ 1 2 ABS Laser-cut
125 Railing 1œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
126 Railing 1 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
127 Bridge deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
128 Railing 2 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
129 Railing 2 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
130 Railing 2 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
131 Bridge side wall 2 ABS Laser-cut
132 Bridge side wall 1 ABS Laser-cut
133 Brace 1 6 ABS Laser-cut
134 Brace 2 4 ABS Laser-cut
135 Davit 4 Plastic Ready made
136 Liferaft support 2 ABS 6 x 4 mm, make from scrap
137 Liferaft 4 Plastic 3 Ø x 4 mm, inj. moulded
138 Ventilator cap 2 ABS Vac. moulded
139 Ventilator shaft 2 Aluminium Tube, 8 / 7 Ø x 10 mm
140 Navigation deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
141 Railing 3 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
142 Railing 3 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
143 Railing 3 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
144 Funnel baseplate 1 ABS Laser-cut
145 Funnel side panel 2 ABS Laser-cut
146 Funnel back panel 1 ABS Laser-cut
147 Funnel front panel 1 ABS Laser-cut
148 Funnel pipe plate 2 ABS Laser-cut
153 Transverse support 1 ABS Vac. moulded
154 Platform 1 ABS Laser-cut
155 Radar antenna 2 Plastic On injection-moulded sprue
156 Radar antenna base 2 Aluminium Tube, 2 / 1.6 Ø x 12 mm
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 50997 03/2006

Byggeveiledning med egne notater, kopiert fra original PDF manual /Ole A. Aas-Hanssen.
Dato 24.02.2014 Side 16 av 21
157 Lamp support 4 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 20 mm
158 Lamp 4 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 2 mm
159 Flag mast 1 Brass Wire, 0.8 Ø x 20 mm
160 Bow mast 1 ABS Vac. moulded
161 Back panel 1 ABS Make from scrap
162 Bow mast platform 1 ABS Laser-cut
163 Top platform 1 ABS Laser-cut
164 Lamp support 1 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 30 mm
165 Lamp 3 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 2 mm
166 Lifeboat 2 ABS Vac. moulded
167 Lifeboat cover 2 ABS Vac. moulded
168 Anchor winch, right 1 Plastic inj. moulded
169 Anchor winch, left 1 Plastic inj. moulded
170 Deck winch, right 4 Plastic inj. moulded
171 Deck winch, left 2 Plastic inj. moulded
172 Anchor chain 2 Brass Ready made
173 Double bollard 18 Plastic Ready made
174 Cable return pulley 5 Plastic Ready made
175 Stern lamp mast 1 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 30 mm
176 Lamp 3 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 2 mm
177 Position lamp plate 2 ABS 3 x 6 mm, make from scrap
178 Position lamp 2 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 3 mm
179 Flag mast 1 Brass Wire, 0,8 Ø x 30 mm
180 Navigation compass 1 Aluminium Tube, 2 / 1.6 Ø x 10 mm
181 Winch base 2 ABS 3 x 6 mm, make from scrap
182 Lifeboat winch 2 Plastic 3 Ø x 4 mm, inj. moulded
183 Lifebelt 42 ABS Laser-cut
184 Anchor 2 Plastic Ready made
185 Propeller 1 Plastic Ready made
186 Glazing 15 Plastic Cut as plan
The Parts List also shows certain components which are not included in the kit; these have to be
purchased separately. Cut as plan: take the dimensions from the plan
The following items are also required (not included in the kit)
1 x SPEED 500 E electric motor, Order No. 1788 2 x Bow thrusters, Order No. 1785 3 x Suppressor
capacitors, Order No. 3588 (pack of 2) 1 x NAVY V 40R speed controller, Order No. 2875 2 x MICRO
SPEED 10 speed controllers, Order No. 2736 2 x Graupner 6 V / 10 Ah lead-acid drive batteries,
Order No. 768 1 x G2 parallel cable, Order No. 3061 1 x Stranded copper cable, 2 m, Order No. 3389
1 x G2 connector system, Order No. 2989 Other essential accessories, including switch harness,
servo extension lead, connectors etc., are not listed here separately, and have to be selected and
acquired by the builder.
Radio control system
1 x mx-12 radio control system, Order No. 4723 or 1 x mc-12 radio control system, Order No. 4725
Other Graupner / JR 40 MHz FM computer radio control systems can also be used.
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 50997 03/2006

Byggeveiledning med egne notater, kopiert fra original PDF manual /Ole A. Aas-Hanssen.
Dato 24.02.2014 Side 17 av 21
No.
off
No. Description Material Size and thickness in mm
1 End support, boatstand 2 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
2 Connecting piece, boatstand 2 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
3 Bow bulge shell 2 ABS Vac. moulded
4 Hull 1 ABS Vac. moulded
5 Rudder blade shell 2 ABS Vac. moulded
6 Support piece 2 ABS Approx. 30 x 10 mm, make from scrap
7 Rudder shaft 1 Brass Round section, 3 Ø x 80 mm
8 Shaft bush 1 Brass Tube, 4 / 3 Ø x 32 mm
9 Shaft support 1 ABS Laser-cut
10 Reinforcement 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
11 Tiller 1 Plastic Ready made
12 Motor mount 1 Plastic Ready made
13 Motor 1 Accessory Order No. 1788
14 Shaft coupling 1 Aluminium Ready made
15 Retaining screw 2 Metal M3 x 8 mm
16 Stern tube 1 Metal Ready made
17 Suppressor capacitor 1 Accessory Order No. 3588
18 Motor power cable 2 Accessory Order No. 3389
19 Main bulkhead 3 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
20 Short fairing strip 4 Spruce 4 x 12 x 340 mm
21 Medium fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 430 mm
22 Long fairing strip 1 Spruce 4 x 12 x 500 mm
23 Front bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
24 Rear bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
25 Inner fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 640 mm
26 Servo former 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
27 Servo mounting plate 2 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
28 Stern bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
29 Rear fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 270 mm
30 Bow bulkhead 1 Beech ply-
wood Laser-cut
31 Front fairing strip 2 Spruce 4 x 12 x 220 mm
32 Bottom fairing strip 1 Spruce 4 x 12 x 150 mm
33 Transverse thruster, bow /
stern 2 Accessory Order No. 1785
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 50997 03/2006

Byggeveiledning med egne notater, kopiert fra original PDF manual /Ole A. Aas-Hanssen.
Dato 24.02.2014 Side 18 av 21
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 50997 03/2006

B ater, kop ra original PDF manual /O ssen.
D Side 19 av 21
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 50997 03/2006
Container block 1 œ 10
yggeveiledning med egne not iert f le A. Aas-Han
ato 24.02.2014
93 2 ABS Laser-cut
94 Container block 1 œ 11 2 ABS Laser-cut
95 Container block 2 œ 1 2 ABS Laser-cut
96 Container block 2 œ 2 4 ABS Laser-cut
97 Container block 2 œ 3 8 ABS Laser-cut
98 Container block 2 œ 4 4 ABS Laser-cut
99 Container block 2 œ 5 4 ABS Laser-cut
100 Container block 2 œ 6 4 ABS Laser-cut
101 Container block 3 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
102 Container block 3 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
103 Container block 3 œ 3 4 ABS Laser-cut
104 Container block 3 œ 4 1 ABS Laser-cut
105 Container block 3 œ 5 2 ABS Laser-cut
106 Container block 4 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
107 Container block 4 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
108 Container block 4 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
109 Corrugated sheet, container 8 ABS Vac. moulded
110 Profiled frame strip 6 ABS Laser-cut, actual lengths vary
111 Container support 14 ABS Vac. moulded
112 Superstructure side wall 2 ABS Laser-cut
113 Superstructure front wall 1 ABS Laser-cut
114 Superstructure rear wall 1 ABS Laser-cut
115 Superstructure baseplate 1 ABS Laser-cut
116 Companionway wall 1 2 ABS Laser-cut
117 Companionway wall 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
118 Companionway floor 4 ABS Laser-cut
119 Deck baseplate 1 ABS Laser-cut
120 Superstructure back wall 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
121 Deck panel 1 ABS Laser-cut
122 Superstructure back wall 2 1 ABS Laser-cut
123 Side deck 2 ABS Laser-cut
124 Railing 1œ 1 2 ABS Laser-cut
125 Railing 1œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
126 Railing 1 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
127 Bridge deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
128 Railing 2 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
129 Railing 2 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
130 Railing 2 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
131 Bridge side wall 2 ABS Laser-cut
132 Bridge side wall 1 ABS Laser-cut
133 Brace 1 6 ABS Laser-cut
134 Brace 2 4 ABS Laser-cut
135 Davit 4 Plastic Ready made
136 Liferaft support 2 ABS 6 x 4 mm, make from scrap
137 Liferaft 4 Plastic 3 Ø x 4 mm, inj. moulded
138 Ventilator cap 2 ABS Vac. moulded
139 Ventilator shaft 2 Aluminium Tube, 8 / 7 Ø x 10 mm
140 Navigation deck 1 ABS Laser-cut
141 Railing 3 œ 1 1 ABS Laser-cut
142 Railing 3 œ 2 2 ABS Laser-cut
143 Railing 3 œ 3 2 ABS Laser-cut
144 Funnel baseplate 1 ABS Laser-cut
145 Funnel side panel 2 ABS Laser-cut
146 Funnel back panel 1 ABS Laser-cut
147 Funnel front panel 1 ABS Laser-cut
148 Funnel pipe plate 2 ABS Laser-cut
149 Exhaust pipe, large 1 Aluminium Tube, 8 / 7 Ø x 20 mm
150 Exhaust pipe, small 2 Aluminium Tube, 3 / 2 Ø x 20 mm
151 Bridge mast 1 ABS Vac. moulded
152 Back panel 1 ABS Make from scrap

B egne notater, kopiert fra original PDF manual /O
D Side 20 av 21
GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
Keine Haftung für Druckfehler. Technische Änderungen vorbehalten! ID# 50997 03/2006
153 Transverse support 1 ABS Vac. moulded
yggeveiledning med le A. Aas-Hanssen.
154 Platform 1 ABS Laser-cut
155 ato 24.02.2014 Radar antenna 2 Plastic On injection-moulded sprue
156 Radar antenna base 2 Aluminium Tube, 2 / 1.6 Ø x 12 mm
157 Lamp support 4 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 20 mm
158 Lamp 4 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 2 mm
159 Flag mast 1 Brass Wire, 0.8 Ø x 20 mm
160 Bow mast 1 ABS Vac. moulded
161 Back panel 1 ABS Make from scrap
162 Bow mast platform 1 ABS Laser-cut
163 Top platform 1 ABS Laser-cut
164 Lamp support 1 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 30 mm
165 Lamp 3 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 2 mm
166 Lifeboat 2 ABS Vac. moulded
167 Lifeboat cover 2 ABS Vac. moulded
168 Anchor winch, right 1 Plastic inj. moulded
169 Anchor winch, left 1 Plastic inj. moulded
170 Deck winch, right 4 Plastic inj. moulded
171 Deck winch, left 2 Plastic inj. moulded
172 Anchor chain 2 Brass Ready made
173 Double bollard 18 Plastic Ready made
174 Cable return pulley 5 Plastic Ready made
175 Stern lamp mast 1 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 30 mm
176 Lamp 3 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 2 mm
177 Position lamp plate 2 ABS 3 x 6 mm, make from scrap
178 Position lamp 2 ABS Round rod, 1.5 Ø x 3 mm
179 Flag mast 1 Brass Wire, 0,8 Ø x 30 mm
180 Navigation compass 1 Aluminium Tube, 2 / 1.6 Ø x 10 mm
181 Winch base 2 ABS 3 x 6 mm, make from scrap
182 Lifeboat winch 2 Plastic 3 Ø x 4 mm, inj. moulded
183 Lifebelt 42 ABS Laser-cut
184 Anchor 2 Plastic Ready made
185 Propeller 1 Plastic Ready made
186 Glazing 15 Plastic Cut as plan