GREAT PLANES Super Sportster 20 User manual

Sportster
Engine
WingSpan
WingArea
Length
Weight
20
.19-.25
48"
400 sq. in.
39-1/2"
3-1/2-4lbs.
40
.35..45
56"
550 sq. in.
43"
5 lbs.
66
.45-.61
61-1/2"
675 sq.in.
48"
6-7-1/2lbs.
MATERIALS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THISKIT:
4channel radioWheel collarsCovering
Engine WheelsInstant glue
Fiberglass cloth/resins Epoxy White glue
Enginemounting bolts Fueltank
PropellerSpinner
TheSuperSportster was designedforthesportflier TheSportsterisfast, stableandaerobaticIthasgoodlooks,goodperformanceand
stabilityatlowspeedsForthecreative buildersit can bedetailed to resemble a war bird, Formula 1 racer or a CAP 21 type aerobatic shipMaterials
are includedfor both trike gearandconventional gear(taildragger) to helpyou create your own Sportster
The partsare machine cutand sanded for accurate fitSome partsare razor cut inthe 20 size for accuracy Shouldyou noticea difference in
size between plansandparts,itisusually becausepaperplans changesize with moisture Mostof thepartsareself aligninganddonotrequire
buildingover the plansexcept where specified inthe instructions
Different types of gluesmay beusedsuch asepoxy,Cyanoacrylate or aliphatic(white) resin Becareful whenusingany kindof glueMakesure
youhave enough ventilation CA glues(instant) are especially harmful ifnot used correctly
We suggest that you buildona flat surface toinsurea straightwing andfuselage Whenyou buildover theplans,coverthemwith waxed paper
sothewood parts are not gluedto theplans'
Thefollowing tools will behelpful when you buildand X-Actoknife, razor plane,saw sanding block, flatbuilding board T Pins hinge slotting
kit,drillanddrill bits, tapand tapholder, covering ironandheatgun,Dremel toolandcutter torwireandrouter bits,soldering iron, screwdrivers, needle
nosepliers, files, clamps anda goodsquare orrighttriangle
We recommend a plastic heatshrink coveringsuchasSuperMonokotetokeepyour SportsterlightFollowthemanufacturer'sinstructions
concerningthe useof thiscovering material
Pleaseread through thisstep by step instruction bookbefore you start buildingso youwillgetanoverall ideaof theconstructionstepsandavoid
mistakes Sincetheseinstructions dopertain to the 20,40 and 60size Sportsters, referto theplanandparts listto help you identify the various parts
Any differences intheinstructions for the various size modelswill benoted atthe appropriate steps with a star (•*)
Theseinstructions andplanswere intended tor 2 cycle engineuse However starting on page26of this booklet, you willfind adaptation
instructionsfor theinstallation of4-cycle engines
Pleaseinspectallparts carefully before starting to build!If any parts are missing,broken ordefective, or ityou have any questions
aboutbuildingorflying this airplane, please callusat [phone]and we'll begladto help.Ityou are callingtor replacement parts,
pleaselookupthe part numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have them ready.
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co., Inc.guarantees this kit to befreeof defects inboth material and workman-
ship atthe date of purchase This warrantydoes not cover any component parts damaged by use or modificationInno
case shall Great Planes' liability exceedthe original cost of the purchased kit Further, Great Planes reserves the right to
change or modify thiswarrantywithoutnotice.
Inthat Great Planes has no controlover the final assembly ormaterial used forfinal assembly, no liabilityshallbe
assumed nor accepted forany damage resulting fromthe use by theuser of thefinaluser-assembled product.
By the actof using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability.
Ifthe buyer isnotpreparedto accept the liabilityassociated with the useof this product,heIsadvised
to immediately return this kitinnewandunusedcondition to the placeof purchase.
READ THROUGH THISINSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. ITCONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNINGTHE
ASSEMBLY AND USEOFTHIS MODEL.
(SEE WARNING ONBACK COVER) POBOX788URBANA,ILLINOIS61801(217)398-8970

BUILDING THE TAIL SECTION
1.D PREPARE THE FINAND RUDDER
Prepare the forwardandrearfinsections bysand-
ingifnecessary fora good fit.Working over the plans, butt
glue the finsection together. Afterthe glue isdry,sand
both sides of the fin.Alsosand both sides of the rudder.
*The 20size finisinone piece.
*The 60size rudder is intwopieces. Glue these together.
Note:Specific instructions for tricycle gearinstallation are
initalics.
2.D CUTTHE HINGESLOTSINTHE FINAND RUDDER;
CUTOUT RUDDER FOR JOINER CLEARANCE
Draw centerlines down the trailing edge of the fin
andthe leading edge of the rudder.Mark and cut the hinge
slots. Two hinges are used above the stabilizer. Forcon-
ventional gear (Taildragger) the third hinge should bejust
below the stab and above the tailwheel struttab.(For tri-
cycle gear the third hinge should be near the bottom of the
rudder. Checktheplans.) Relieve(cut out)the leadingedge
of the rudder forelevator joiner wire clearance. (Shape the
rudder leading edge to a "V"now for tricycle gear.) Forcon-
ventionalgear wait to shape the leading edge until the
hole isdrilled for the tailwheel tiller arm later.
3.D GLUE THE STAB PARTS TOGETHER; SAND THE
STAB AND ELEVATORS
Check the fitand butt glue the stabilizerforward and
rear sections together. Sandboth sides of the stabilizer
and elevator halves.
*The20size stab isinone piece.
4.D DRILLHOLESINTHE ELEVATOR HALVES FOR
ELEVATOR JOINER WIRE
Draw a frontto back centerline down the top side of
the stab and a centerline down the leading edges of the
elevator halves. Mark the center of the elevatorjoiner wire.
Alignthe stab, elevatorand joiner wire and markthe hole
locations for the joiner wirearms on the centerline of the
elevator leading edge.Drill the holes.
2

5.D GROOVE OUTTHE ELEVATORS FORJOINER WIRE
CLEARANCE
Cut a groove inthe elevator leading edge inboard
(inside) of thehole so when thejoinerwireis installed it
willbeflushwiththe leading edge of the elevator. Groove
both elevator halves.
6.D TRIAL FITTHE JOINER WIRE
Temporarily install the elevator joinerwireinto the
elevator halves. Check tomake sure that thisassembly is
alignedproperly. Bend thejoinerarms if necessary for a
perfectfit.DONOTGLUETHE JOINERWIRETO THE ELE-
VATORHALVESUNTILAFTERTHEPIECESARECOVERED
LATER.
7.D CUTHINGE SLOTSFOR THE STAB AND ELEVATOR
Mark and cut the hinge slots for the stab and eleva-
tor halves as you did withthe finand rudder. See theplans
forlocations. Shape the leading edges of the elevator
halves to a "V".
BUILDING THE WING PANELS
READ THIS FIRST BEFORE YOU START BUILDING THE
WING PANELS: Itis very important that you build a straight
wingwithno warpsor twistsor you willget some flying
characteristicsyou didn'texpect!Beverycarefulwhen
you align the ribs, spars, leading edges and trailingedges
and sheeting at thevariousstepsbelow. Allthese parts
should be in theircorrectpositionsbeforeyou glue them in
place. Hold or pin theparts in place,thenglue. Use the
followinginstructionsto help you build the wing straight
and warp free.
Remember: Anyone can build a wing. Only a careful builder
can build a straight wing.
1.D NOTCHTHE RIBS FORLANDING GEAR BLOCK
CLEARANCE
Notch the ribs tobeinstalled at locations 2 and 3 for
the hardwood main landing gear blocks. Conventional
gear block notchesare forwardon the ribs. (Tricycle gear
notches are the rear cutouts.) Check the fitwiththeblock.
Number theseribs2 and 3.Cut the notchesin theribsfor
the otherwingpanel at the same time. (Conventional gear
cut outs are shown.)
*20size ribs are notched already. Glue the scrap back in-
to the notch you will not use.
3

2.D GLUETHE 1/16"PLYWOODLANDINGGEAR SUP-
PORTS TO THE RIBS
Start on the right wingpanel bygluingthe 1/16ply
brace on the leftside of rib 2 and on the rightside of rib 3.
(For theleftpanel the brace glues on the right side of rib 2
and on the leftside of rib 3.)When the glue is dry sand the
braces totherib contour. Note that the landing gear block
willbeflushwiththe bottom sheeting not thebottom of
therib. (Conventional gear locations are shown through-
out the instructions.)
3.D PINTHE BOTTOMSPAR OVER THE PLANS;PLACE
RIBS ON THE SPAR
Pinthe bottom spar on the waxedpaper covered
plans.Temporarily installall the ribs to the spar making
sure they are 90degrees to the building board and that the
landing gear notches are down. (Waxed paper is notshown
for clarity.)
4.D GLUE THE TRAILING EDGE TO THE RIBS; GLUE
THE RIBS TO THE BOTTOM SPAR
For the40 size, alignthetop edge of the trailing
edge stocktothe top edge of the building shim (see size
below). For the 20 and 60size, alignthetrailingedge tothe
top of theshim as shown in thedrawingbelow. Use waxed
paper in between theshim and the trailingedge and pin
them together. Center the trailingedge tothe rib ends.
Glue the trailing edge to the ribs withthe shim pinned tothe
work surface.Glue the ribs to the bottom spar. DONOT
GLUE THE SHIM TO THE TRAILING EDGE! USE THE
SHIM AGAIN WHEN YOU BUILDTHE LEFTWING PANEL.
Shim Sizes:
20 = 1/4 x 5/8
40 = 3/32 x 7/8
60 = 1/4 x 3/4
5.D GLUE THE RIBS TO THE LEADING EDGE
Useastraight edgeanddraw a straight lineontheback
oftheleadingedgeabout3/32"fromthetop. Using1/4x 1/4x36
balsa stock as a shimunderthe leadingedge (for the 40 size),
alignthe top of the ribsto the lineandgluethem inplace to the
leadingedge.The leadingedge isintentionally wider than
necessaryto allowforslightwarpage. Donotfight a slightwarp
butinsteadgluetheleadingedgetothe ribsmakingsurethere is
atleast3/32" aboveandbelowthe ribsfor sheeting. Later the
excesswillbecarvedoff.
*Use an1/8"shim for the 20size.
*Usea 5/8"shimfor the60 size.
4

6.D ADD THE TOP SPAR, TOP LEADING EDGE SHEET-
INGAND TOP TRAILING EDGE SHEETING
Glue the top spar inplace. Glue the top leading
edge sheeting between the leading edge and the dotted
line on thetop spar shown on the plans. Alignthe top trail-
ing edge sheeting even withthe back of thetrailingedge
andglue itinplace.
7.D ADD THE TOP CENTER SECTION SHEETING AND
CAP STRIPS
Glue the top center sectionsheeting in place. Glue
the frontpiece on first.Then cut therear piece tofitand
glue it in place. Add the top cap strips.Note thatthe cap
stripon the tiprib (outer end of the wing)is offsetso the
outer edge is flushwiththe outer edge ofthe rib. Afterthe
glue sets up,remove thewingfromthe building board and
check allthe glue joints.Add more glue ifnecessary. Now
remount thewingupside down reversing the trailingedge
shim onyour work surface.
8.D PREPARE THE MAIN LANDING GEAR BLOCK
Glue the torque block tothe inboard (inside) end of
theungrooved side of the landing gear block. The grooved
side of thetorqueblock should facetowardtheother end
of the long landing gear block. Aftertheglue dries, drilla
5/32" hole down throughthe landing gear block,using the
groove in the torque block as a guide. Epoxy is recom-
mended forthe above procedure.
9.D TRIAL FITTHE LANDING GEAR BLOCK ASSEMBLY
Temporarily install the landing gear support as-
sembly into the wing. Custom fitthe assembly as follows.
Shape the bottom end of the torque block tofitthe contour
of the wingsheeting towhichit mates. The top of the long
grooved block should beflush with the bottom sheeting (not
yet installed).
5

10.D TRIAL FITTHE MAIN GEARWIRE INTO THEGEAR
BLOCK
Remove the landing gear block fromthe wing and
temporarily installthe landing gear wire.The torque arm
should slideinto thehole you drilledearlierwiththe long
arm restingin thegroove in the long block. Custom fitas
necessary. Remove the wire.
11.D GLUE THE LANDING GEAR BLOCKAND GUSSET
INPLACE
Use5 minute expoxy to glue the main landing gear
block inplace. Add the small gusset under the outer (out-
board) end of the long block. Fill the groove at both ends of
the long block withscrap balsa so foreignmatter does not
get into the wing.
*Go to step 13forthe 20size model.
12.D (40and60SIZEONLY)GLUE THE HARDWOOD
HOLD DOWN PLATE AND BALSA FILLERS TO
THE WING PANEL
Add the maple wing holddown plate andbalsa
fillersbehind theleading edge between ribs 1 and 2.
Custom fitas necessary. Use 5 minute epoxyafteryou are
sure of the fitand glue the pieces inplace.
13.D (20SIZEONLY)GLUE THE TWO 1/8"PLYWOOD
DOWEL PLATESTO THE WING PANEL
Remove the 1/8"Plywood dowel plates fromthe
razor cut sheet. The smaller dowel plate glues tothe rear
of thewingpanel leading edge. The larger dowel plate
glues to thefrontof the top and bottom spars. Use epoxy
and glue both plates inposition between ribs 1 and 2 as
shown on the plan.
6

14.D ADD ALL THE BOTTOMSHEETINGTOTHE
WING PANEL
Add the bottom leading edgesheeting, the trailing
edge sheetingand thecentersectionsheeting. Relieve
(cut away) theleadingedge sheetingforlanding gear block
clearance.(Relieve the center section sheeting for tricycle
gear.) Add thebottomcap strips.Aftertheglue dries,
remove the wingfromyour building board and turn it over.
15.D ADD THE WING TIPS,WING TIPFILLERSAND
SUPPORTPIECES
Cut offspars and sheeting even withthe outboard
edge of the tiprib. DONOT CUT THE LEADING EDGE! Add
the wingtip.Itshould becenteredon the tiprib and on the
leading edge. For the 40 and 60size models, prepare and
installtheupper and lowerforwardand rear wingtipsup-
ports.Using the wingtipdetaildrawingas a guide, cuttwo
rectanglesfromthe1/4" scrappiece. Cut therectangles
diagonallyand you have twoforwardand tworear pieces.
Custom fitallfoursupportsand glue them in place.Use
1/4" scrapand make and gluetheaileronfillerpiece.Glue
it totheinboard side of thewingtip.Add fillerpiecestothe
rear end of thewingtip,topand bottom.Sand theseblocks
totheaileroncontourlater afterinstallinghinging and cen-
teringthe ailerons.
*The 20size kit includes the above parts inthe 1/8"razor
cut sheets.
16.D BUILD THE LEFTWING PANEL NOW
Build theleftpanel inthe same manner except
build it upside down. Gear cut outsare "up" and landing
gear blocksare installedbeforeany sheetingis added. In-
stallthewinghold downplateand fillersin the40 or 60
models (or the wingdowelplatesin the 20size) afteryou
turnthewingpanel over and before the top leading edge
sheeting is installed.
17.D SAND THE LEADING EDGES OF THE WING
PANELS TO THE ROUNDED SHAPE SHOWN ON
THE PLANS
18.D FINISH SAND THE WING PANELS
Sand the leading edge tomatch the wing tip con-
tour. Remove thetrailingedge building shimand cutand
sand thewingpartsflushwiththeroot rib (inner rib). Finish
sand the rest of the wing panel.
7

19.D PREPARE THE CENTER TRAILING EDGE PIECES
Withthe top of the wingpanels up,draw a center-
line down thetrailingedge of each wingpanel. Prepare the
grooved centertrailingedge pieces by notchingthem for
the servoarm torquerod clearance3/8" or so in fromthe
wingcenter. See plansforlocation.Make rightand left
pieces. Glue theailerontorquerods intothegroove in the
centertrailingedge pieces. Use vaselineat theends of the
outer tube so onlythetube is glued totheblock.Notchthe
trailingedge of thewingtopermit forwardmovement of
the torque rod arms.
*The centertrailingedge pieces forthe60size model are
balsa.Cut a groove inthe block fortorque rod clearance.
20.D GLUE THE CENTER TRAILING EDGE PIECESTO
THE WING PANELS
JOINING THE WING PANELS
1.D GLUE THE CENTER RIB TO THE LEFTWING
PANEL
Glue the wedge-shaped balsa center rib to the root
end of the leftwingpanel. Make sure thewideredge of the
centerrib is downand thewingpanel is up. Make sure that
the leading edge and trailingedge are centered on the
tapered rib. Use 5 minuteepoxy.
2.D SAND THE CENTER RIB TO THE WING PANEL
CONTOUR
Roughcut the center rib to the wing airfoil, leaving
itabout 1/8" oversize. Sand the remainder away witha
sanding block so thatthe centerrib edges are flushwith
the wing sheeting surfaces.
8

3.D JOIN THE WING PANELS
Join thewingpanels upside down. Refer tothedi-
hedral detail on the plans. Alignat the leading and trailing
edges. Use a straightedge to make sure the wingis
straight.Block upthe wing3/4" at thecenterforthe20
size, 1"forthe 40 size and 1-1/4" forthe60size model. Glue
thewingpanels togetherusing epoxy, recheckingthe
alignment beforetheglue setsup. When the glue is dry,
mark the aileron servo welllocation.The servowellis
locateddirectlybehind the spar and inthe center of the
top of the wing.
4.D GLASS THECENTERSECTIONOFTHEWING
Use 6 ounce glass cloth(or nylon cloth)and glass
the center sectionglue joint.Use a 4" widepiece of cloth
and polyester resinor epoxy. Sand thecentersectionwhen
dry. Applya second coatof resinor epoxyifnecessary.
IMPORTANT — Omittingthisstepwillresultin a wingfail-
ure during flightand result ina crash.
*Use a 5"wide piece of clothin the 60size.
THE AILERONS
1.D PREPARE THE AILERONS
Cut the aileronstocktolengthand draw a center-
line down theleading edge of theailerons.Mark and drill
the torquerod holes. Groove the aileronfortorque rod
clearance. Make right and leftailerons.
2.D CUT THE HINGESLOTS;FINAL SAND THE
AILERONS
Mark and cut the hinge slotsinto the ailerons and
the wingtrailingedge. Shape the leadingedge of the aile-
rons toa "V".Temporarilyinstallthe aileronswithhinges to
check the fit.Final sand thewingtipstomatchtheaileron
contourat neutral. Do not permanently hinge the ailerons
until afterthey are covered.
9

BUILDING THE FUSELAGE
1.D PREPARE THE FUSELAGE SIDES
Mark the inside of the fuselage sides "right"and
"left". Relieve the wingsaddle area as necessary tomatch
theplans.
STOP! Ifyou plan to install a 4-cycleengine read and
followthe instructions on installation of 4-cycleengines at
the end of this instruction book starting on page 26.
2.D PREPARE BULKHEAD #1
PrepareBulkhead#1,the firewall. Markthe"top" of
the firewall(slanted part is at the bottom) and mark the
position of the motor mount. Drill the holes forthe motor
mount and install the blind nuts. Temporarily install the
mount and cut offthe bolts that extend into the tank com-
partment. Drill the hole for the throttlelinkage about 1/4"
fromthe top corner of the bulkhead (leftor right depending
on your engine). (Fortricyclegear mark and drillthe hole
for the steering linkage inthe firewall.Also relieve the
firewallforsteering arm clearance.
3.D PREPARE BULKHEAD #3
Preparebulkhead#3 bydrilling holes forthe push-
rod outer housings. Useyour servos andthe plan asa guide
to placement.
4.D BUILD THE THREE REAR FORMERS
Make formers#4, 5 and6 from 1/4"x 1/8"balsa
stock. Use the plans as a guide. Alsomake pushrod braces
from1/8"or 3/32" scrap sheeting.The widthsof thebraces
are thesame as that of the formers.They willbeinstalled
later when the pushrods housings are added.
STOP! Did you read the4-cycleengine instructionsifyou
planto install a 4-cycle? Seepage26.
10

5.D GLUE THE DOUBLERS TO THE FUSELAGE SIDES
Using bulkhead #1 asa spacer, install the 1/8"balsa
doublers (1/16" forthe 20size) cross-grainon the inside of
thefuselagesides. Custom cutpieces fromthe stock pro-
vided. Use slowset epoxyglueorthickCyanoacrylate.The
doubler should extend5/8" beyond thepositionof
bulkhead #3. Trim and sand the doublers to match the
fuselage contour.
6.D MARK BULKHEAD POSITIONS ON THE INSIDE OF
THEFUSELAGESIDES
Markthe positions of Bulkhead#2and3 on the fuse-
lage sides. Alsomark thepositionof the balsa dash be-
tween#2 and #3 on the fuselagesides.
*Bulkhead#2 inthe 20size islocated 1/8"forward of the
wingsaddle opening toallow forthedoweljig.
7.D DRILL PUSHROD EXIT HOLES
Markanddrill the holesinthe fuselage sides for the
pushrod exitsforthe elevatorand rudder. See the plans for
the locations.A piece of brass tubing sharpened on the in-
side withan X-actoblade and chucked in an electricdrill
makes a neat, clean angled hole fortube-stylepushrods.
8.D TRIAL FITTHE WING INTO THE WING SADDLE
Pin the fuselagesides together perfectlyaligned.
Check thefittothe wingsaddle cutoutby placing the fuse
sides on thewing.Custom sand if necessary butdonot
change thewingincidence.
11

9.D SAND FUSELAGE TAIL; GLUE BULKHEADS #2
AND #3 TO THE RIGHT FUSELAGE SIDE
Slightly relievethe inside edges of thefusesides at
the tail fora better glue joint.Notch a hole forthe throttle
linkage intheside of bulkhead #2 firstbefore gluingit to
the fuselageside. Alignand glue bulkheads #2 and #3 to
the inside of the rightfuseside whichyou have pinned
down toyourworksurface.Make sure the bulkheads are
90degrees tothefuselageside and thatthe tops of the
bulkheads are towardthestraightedge of the fuselage
sides. Bulkhead #2 has an angled cut on thebottom edge
in the 40and 60models. (The straightedge of the fuselage
side iscalled the Fuselage ReferenceLine andwillbeused
later to align the wing and stab tothe fuselage.)
*BecarefultolocateBulkhead #2 1/8"forwardofthewing
saddle opening inthe Sportster 20.
10.D GLUE LEFTFUSELAGE SIDETOBULKHEADS
Alignthe fuselage side/bulkhead assembly upside
down overthe top viewof the plans. Make sure the flatside
is resting flaton the building board and that the bulkheads
are aligned tothe plans. Pin in place. Glue the other fuse
side tobulkheads #2 and #3 making sure the second side
isalso flaton thebuilding board. Clamp or pin the fuse-
lage in place until the glue isdry.
11.D GLUE INTHE HOLD DOWN PLATES
Add the 1/4"plywood frontand rear wing hold
down plates and the 1/4" tristockbraces on the bottom of
the plates inthe servo compartment as shown on the
plans. Useepoxy to glue in the plates. You may want to
saw or grindaway the pushrod clearance area shown on
the rear plate now. Otherwise do thisin step 23.
*The 20size model has a rear hold down plate only and
uses 1/4"x 1/4"bracing.
12.D GLUE INTHE 1/4"BRACING
Turn the fuselageover and add the 1/4"triangle
stock(or 1/4" x 1/4" for the 20) on the frontand rear hold
down plates. Add the 1/4" tristock behind bulkhead #2. (40
and 60 only).
12

13.D GLUE INBULKHEAD #1
Realign thefuselage overthe plans andglue the
fuse sides to bulkhead #1.Make sure thetop of the
bulkhead is flaton the building board and that the front of
the bulkhead isfacingforward.
14.D ADD THE 1/4"BRACING BEHIND THE FIREWALL
Add three pieces of 1/4"triangle stock along the
back side of the firewall.Extend the throttlelinkage holes
(and nosegear steering if used) through the tristock.
*The 20size model has 1/4"x 1/4" stock behind bulkhead
#1 andinfront of bulkhead #2.Glue these pieces innow.
15.D GLUE FORMERS TO THE DECK BASE
Notch the deck base at the corners toclear the
doubler as shown on the plans. The deck base should butt
up to bulkhead #3. Mark the location of formers#4, 5 and 6
and pin thedeck base to the plans. Check the fitof the
formersand glue them tothedeck base making sure they
are 90degrees to the base.
*The20size deck baseisrazorcut andhasprecut
notches.
16.D PREPARE FORMER BRACES FOR PUSHROD
HOUSINGS
Temporarilyput the fuselage/bulkhead assembly
over the deck base. Use a pushrod housing and mark the
locationsof the housing holes in theformerbraces. Make
sure the housing followsas straighta path as possible
frombulkhead #3 tothe exit.Drillthe holes in thebraces.
Temporarily installthe housings tocheck your work.
Remove the housings. Tube ina tube stylepushrods are
shown here but other typesmay beused.
13

17.D GLUE THE FUSELAGE TO THE DECK BASE
Glue the fuselage sides/bulkhead assembly to the
deck base/formerassembly. Fuselage sides are glued to
thesidesof the deck base and the sides of the formers.
The deck base should glue to the rear of bulkhead #3.
DONOTGLUE THE FUSELAGE TOGETHER AT THE TAIL
UNTIL YOU READ THE NEXT STEP!
18.D GLUE THE HINGE TOTHE FUSELAGE TAIL;
GLUE THE FUSELAGE SIDES TOGETHER AT
THE TAIL
Glue the fuselage sides together at the tail. Con-
ventional gear-gluetherudder hinge justbelow stab place-
ment. Use the rudder hinge slotas a guide to placement.
Donot glue the area at the tailwherethetailwheel strut
mounting tab willglue later. (Tricycle gear-glue the bottom
hinge at the tail at this time. Use the rudder as a guide to
placement.)
late glue, glue both elevatorand rudder housings in place
exceptat bulkhead #3. This willbeglued laterwhen the
servos are installed. You may trimthe housings at the exits
now.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The pushrods supplied inthis kit are steel rod-in-a-tube type We strongly recommend thatyou use these pushrods,
installing them as straight as possible, as theyprovide a veryrigid
linkage between theservos and the controlsurfacesWe do not
recommend the useof flexible plastic innerpushrods forthis
model,as theirelasticity mayresult in controlsurfaceflutter.Seepage
43forrecommended pushrod hookups.
20.D GLUE IN1/4"BRACING AT THE TAIL
Glue1/4"triangle stock (1/4" x 1/4" for the 20size) atthe
bottom sides of the deck base between former #6 andthe tail.
Anglecutthe endsofthetri stockatthetail foragoodgluejoint.
14

21,D GLUE THE CHIN BLOCK TO THE FUSELAGE
With the fuselage still at 90degrees tothe board
and over the plans, alignthechinblock tothe back of bulk-
head #2 andglue the chin block to the fuselage.
*0n the Sportster 20make the rear end of the block even
withthe wing saddle openings inthe fuselage sides.
22.D ADD THE BALSA BOTTOM SHEETING
Remove all pins from the inside of the fuselage.
Cut and glue on the bottom sheeting. For conventional
gear, leave the last sectionof sheeting offuntilthe tail
wheel is installedlater. When theglue is dry,remove the
fuselage fromyour building board and trimand sand the
bottom sheeting to shape.
23.D CUT OUT AREAON REAR HOLD DOWN FOR
AILERON TORQUE ROD CLEARANCE
Alignthefuselageover thewingand draw refer-
ence lines on the wingalong both sidesof thefuselage.
Mark thelocationstoberelievedon therear hold down
platefortheailerontorquerod clearance.Remove the
fuselageand cutaway the area on the hold down. Check
your workby placingthefuselageon thewingand operat-
ing thetorquerods. A Dremel tool and routerbit or grind-
ing drum or a coarse wood rasp workswellforthisstep.
24.D PREPARE TOP FORMERS 1ATHROUGH 6B
Preparethe fuselagetop formers bynumbering
them to match the plans. Mark the locations of the stringers
on formers3B and 6B byreferringtothe plans. Glue former
3B to the back of 3A. Glue former6B to the frontof 6A.
Draw the locationlinesforthe cockpitflooron theback of
the dash and on the frontof the 3A/3B assembly.
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25.D GLUEONFORMERS 1Aand 2A; SAND THEM SO
HOOD TOP FITS;TRIALFITTHE FUELTANK
Glue formers 1Aand 2A to the tops of bulkheads
1and 2.When the glue is dry sand thetops of these
formers to a slight angle so the hood top willmate squarely
when glued. Trialfitthe assembled fueltank. Carve out a
sectionof former2A forfueltank clearance ifnecessary. If
you leave thetank in permanently, plug all fuel lines so
balsa dust does not enter the lines.
26.D GLUE INTHE DASH; ADD FORMER 3A/3B
Pinthe hoodtop inplace to determine the height
of the dash. Put thecockpitfloorin positiontodetermine
the placement of thedash on the fuseside. Glue the dash
tothe fusesides. Donot glue on thehood top yet. Glue
former3A/3B tothe fuselage at the rear of the cockpiton
top of bulkhead#3.
27.D GLUE INTHE COCKPIT FLOOR
Prepare andglue the 1/8"cockpit floor between
the dash and former3A/3B on the linesyou drew earlier.
28.D PREPARE THE BALSA HOOD SIDE PIECES
The balsa hood sidepiecesneedto betwisted
slightlytofitthe frontof the fuse.To make iteasy totwist
thebalsa as required, "paint" some ammonia on both
pieces of thebalsa sheets.Place one end in a viseand
twisttheotherend somewhat more than is required. Hold
or clampthisend untilthewood dries(about 15minutes).
Note thatthe twistin the right piece is oppositethat of the
left piece.
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29.D INSTALLAND GLUE ONTHE HOOD SIDEPIECES
Sand the bottom of the side pieces so they will
mate squarely withthe fuselagesides. Glue the side
pieces fromthe frontof former3A/3B tobeyond former1A
inthefollowingmanner. Toprevent a twistedfuselage,
glue both pieces at the same time, a littleat a timestarting
at former3A/3B. The hood side pieces should extendout-
side former3A/3B slightly so they can besanded tocon-
tour later.
30.D SAND THE TOPSOFTHE HOODSIDEPIECES
Sand the top of the hood side pieces flush with
the top of the formers so the hood top willmate squarely.
31.D GLUE ON THE HOOD TOP; SAND THE HOOD
SIDESATTHECOCKPIT.
Sand the angle at the rear of the hood top and
trialfitthe hood top tothefuselage. Glue on the hood top.
Afterthe glue is dry,sand the side pieces inthe area of the
cockpit as shown on the plans.
32.D ADD FORMER 6A/6B
Pinthe stabilizer inplace so the stab is aligned
withtheback of the fuselage.Mark thepositionof former
6A/6B and glue it inplace.Remove the stab before the glue
sets up.
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33.D GLUEONTHE1/4"x 1/4"BALSATOP STRINGER
Cut to length and glue the 1/4"x 1/4"balsa stringer
inplace between formers 3A/3B and 6A/6B.
34,D ADD FORMERS 4A AND 5A
Locate the positions of formers 4A and 5A by
placing a straightedge along thetop stringer. Place and
glue theformersso they mate withthe stringer and are
centered from side to side.
35.D ADD THE 1/8"x 1/4"STRINGERS
Add the 1/8"x 1/4"balsa stringers bygluing them
at6A/6B first,checking witha straight edge and then gluing
to 5A, 4A and 3A/3B.
36.D PREPARE ANDGLUE INTHE SIDE NOSE
BLOCKS; FINAL SAND THE FUSE FRONT
Groove the inside of the nose side block (rightor
leftdepending on your engine) forthe throttlelinkage
clearance.Using 5 minute epoxy, gluethe nose side
blocks in place. Remove excessepoxyat the chinblock
joint.Carve and rough sand the hood top, hood sides and
chin block tothe shape of thenose sidepieces.
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37.D CUT AWAY AREASFOR ENGINE CLEARANCE;
DRILL HOLES INMOUNT FOR ENGINE; TEMPO-
RARILY MOUNT ENGINE TO FUSE
Temporarilyinstallyour mount and engine.
Relieve theenginecompartmentso the engine restsflat
on the enginemount. Check forbinding of thethrottle
arm. Mark and drilltheholes in the mount forengine
mount bolts.Tap theholes forboltsand nuts or use self-
tappingboltstohold theengineon themount. The engine
has nodown thrust and noright thrust.
38.D GLUE NOSE FILLER BLOCK INPLACE; ADD
SPINNER RING
Using your engine as a guide, locate the place-
ment of the frontfillerblock. The engine thrustwasher
shouldextend1/16" to1/8" inchesforwardof thefiller
block.Cut away areas on theblockforengineclearance.
The placementof thesepartsdepends on whatbrand
spinneryouwilluse. Inspectyour spinnerbackplateand
locatetheblockaccordingly.When youare sureofthe
placement,gluethecrossgrainspinnerfillerblockin
place. Sand the frontof the nose ifnecessary.Glue the
ply spinnerringin placeon the fillerblockusingyour
engine and spinnerbackplateas a guideforplacement.
39.D ADD 3/8 TRI STOCK TO NOSE; SAND NOSE TO
SHAPE
Remove the engine and add the 3/8 triangle
stock along the bottom sidesoftheenginecompartment
and behind the fillerblock.Customfitthesepiecesso
theyglue to thefirewalland frontfillerblock.Sand and
carvethe nose to the shape of the spinner ring.
40.D DRILL FUEL LINE ANDDRAINHOLES; DRILL
NOSEGEAR CLEARANCE HOLES FOR TRIKE
GEAR
Drill the holes in former 1A forthe fuellines. For
conventionalgear, drilla drainhole in thebottomofthe
enginecompartmentjustin frontof thefirewall.(For
tricycle gear, drill a hole in the chin block for nosegear,
Relieve the chin block for nosegear spring clearance.
Relieve the 3/8 tri stock for steering arm clearance.)
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41.D ALIGN THE STABILIZER TO THE FUSELAGE
Firstalignthe fuselagetoa flatworksurface.
Thefuselagereferenceline (the line alongthe top ofthe
fuselageside- see step9 on page 12)shouldbe parallel
tothe worksurface.Now alignthe stabilizertothe
fuselagein thismanner: A - Draw a centerlinedown the
stab bed at the end of thefuselage.Line up thestab
centerlinetothefusecenterline.B - Measure fromeach
stab tiptoa point at the centerof thetop of the firewall
area. Each measurement should be thesame. C -Measure
fromeach stab tiptotheworksurface.Each measure-
ment shouldbethesame. D - To make sureyou have 0
degrees incidence,measure fromthe centerof the leading
edge totheworksurface.Measure fromthecenterof the
trailingedge totheworksurface.These distancesshould
bethe same. When the stabilizeris aligned, do not glue in
place but go on to the next step.
42.D PREPARE THE FINFILLER BLOCKS; GLUE ON
THE STAB, FIN ANDFIN FILLER BLOCKS
Prepare the finfillerblocks by cuttingthem to
pick up the angleof thetopstringer.Then sand them to
the contourof thestringers.Shaping and sanding is easy
if you tackglue scrapsof balsa thethicknessof the stab
and fintothe fuselage.Trimthe scrap even withthe fuse
sides and stringerline, thentackglue the blocks in place
and razor plane and sand themtoshape. When ready,
break theblocks loose and remove and discardthe scrap.
Use epoxyand glue thestabilizertothefuselage.Glue
the fintothe stab at 90 degreestothestaband aligned
on thestab centerline.Glue theprepared finfillerblocks
in place with5 minute epoxy. Remove excessepoxy.
43.D ADD DORSAL FINAND FILLERPIECES(MAKE
FROM SCRAP)
Use scrap balsa andcustom make the dorsal fin
piece and fillerpieces.Gluethedorsalfintothefinand
1/4" topstringer.Glue the fillerpiecesbetweenthetop
stringerand the next stringeron each side of thedorsal
fin.These fillerpieces are used to anchor the covering
material later.
44.D ADD THE TAILWHEEL STRUT; FINISH RUDDER
Forconventional gear, glue the tailwheelstrutin
place as shown on theplans. Use 5 minuteepoxyand
clampthetailuntiltheglue is dry. Add thelast pieceof
bottom sheeting.Mark and drillthehole forthe tailwheel
tillerarm in the rudder. Alsogroovetherudder leading
edge below thehole forthenylonbearingclearance.
Shape theleadingedge of therudder toa "V".
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