Growing Spaces 22' Growing Dome User manual

Revised 05/11/2021 22' Install Manual 10-W1 Vent Installation Stage 2
Included in the Growing Dome®kit for completing the vent installation (Stage 2) are the following:
2 –6’ nylon cord (restrainer cords for top vents)
2 –3-1/2” nylon cords (restrainer cords for bottom vents)
4 –eyebolts, fender washers, and nuts
6 –screw eyes (2 per top vent / 1 per bottom vent)
1-3/4” bronze star drive screws (to attach hinges and crossbars)
Crossbars –2 @ 30” (for top vents) & 2 @ 36” (for bottom vents)
Bayliss solar powered openers (for “A” top vents)
Univent solar powered openers (for “E” bottom vents)
Vent gaskets (cut to length)
Hex head screws to attach vent gaskets
The vent gaskets are used to create a weatherproofing seal when the vents close. It is easier to install the
gaskets before installing the crossbar. See “Vent Gasket Installation” Video 10-V1. The vent gaskets are cut to
length and may come as one piece or two pieces that are butted up to each other. Butting the gaskets doesn’t
lead to any problems but always place the shorter piece towards the hinge end as the gasket is harder to screw in
closer to the point of the vent.
The hinged side of the vent does not need gaskets. Place the length of gasket in position with the rubber edge
towards the vent itself and press up against the vent to make a tight seal. Mark the edge of the metal of the
gasket with a pencil on the strut before you install it. You will need to open the vent in order to install the gasket
and the pencil line will show exactly where you want the gasket to be located. Screw the gasket firmly in position
with a 3/4” hex head screw in every hole. They are provided with the kit. (A new 1/4” magnetic hex bit will make
the process much easier.)
The vent crossbar is installed parallel to the strut that the vent is hinged on and in such a manner that the holes,
which are drilled diagonally on the ends, follow the line of the struts. It is best to take measurements to ensure
that the crossbar is indeed parallel to that strut. Use 1-3/4” bronze star drive screws through these holes to attach
the crossbar. The two top vents use the 30” crossbars and the two bottom vents use the 36” crossbars. The holes
in the middle of the crossbars are pre-drilled for the specific openers which come with your dome kit.
Be aware that once the openers are installed to the crossbars and the vents themselves, they will be trying to
force the vents open as the inside of the dome heats (that’s their purpose). You will need to make sure you untie
the restraining cords so that the vents can open. After the openers are attached, you will need to re-tie the
restraining cords per the instructions in “The Restraining Cord Stage 2” section at the end of this Step.
First, fix the Univent opener bracket onto the crossbar. See “Univent Opener Installation” Video 10-V2. The
opener bracket is screwed through the two holes in the crossbar, as shown in the video, using the short screws
provided in the kit, screwing through the holes in the crossbar and into a backing plate provided in the opener kit.
Attach the arms of the opener to the bracket by squeezing the arms together and inserting the prongs into the
slots of the bracket. Place the other end of the actuating arm against the glazing making sure the pressure of the
VENT GASKETS
VENT CROSSBARS
INSTALLING UNIVENT OPENERS
22’ GROWING DOME
VENT INSTALLATION STAGE 2
MATERIALS LIST

Revised 05/11/2021 22' Install Manual 10-W1 Vent Installation Stage 2
opener is acting in a straight line, from side to side, not sideways. Slide the slotted bracket up and down until the
bend end of the opener (the end hanging down) is about 1” to 2” (two fingers worth) from the vent.
Mark for the two holes in the slots and drill through the vent glazing with a 3/16” bit. Make sure you drill
perpendicular to the vent as it will be difficult to screw the two long screws into the small backer plate if they are at
an angle. Place the two long screws provided with the opener kit through the slots in the bracket, through the
holes in the vent and into the holes in the small backer plate placed on the outside of the vent. Use a wrench and
a screwdriver to tighten these screws so that at no point does the opener mechanism bind on the vent itself. Turn
the “T” piece that the piston end goes through by 180º so that the piston goes through the top of the “T”. Line up
the hole in the piston with the hole nearer the piston and insert the small hair pin with the rounded end up. Screw
the tube into the collar until half the amount of thread is used.
Screwing the black piston in all the way opens the vent to its maximum. Unscrewing the piston will keep the vents
from fully opening which is an advantage in cooler weather. To disable the Univent openers totally (recommended
for areas that receive snow), squeeze the two arms together and remove from the opener bracket on the
crossbar. If you disable the openers, it is advisable to re-tie the restraining cords so the vents will not “fly” open.
When installing a Bayliss opener, the first step is to make sure there are two holes 3/16” diameter 2-1/8” apart in
the vent crossbar. The crossbar should come pre-drilled. See “Bayliss Opener Installation” Video 10-V3. Mount
the opener to the crossbar, using the short #10-32 bolts provided in the kit, screwing through the holes in the
crossbar into the nuts provided. Fix the vent opener leg without the actuating tube (silver piston) onto the crossbar
(see video) and place the other end of the actuating arm against the vent glazing making sure the pressure of the
opener is acting in a straight line, side to side, not sideways. The Bayliss Hydraulicheck opener is designed to
open slowly, so apply firm but constant pressure. Slide the slotted bracket up and down until the bend end of the
opener (the end hanging down) is about 1” to 2” (two fingers worth) from the vent. Mark two holes through the
slotted bracket and drill perpendicular through the vent glazing with a 3/16” bit. It is easier to have an assistant on
the outside ready to put the short angle backing plate and the nuts on the long 1-1/4” x #10-32 bolts that are used
to secure the Bayliss vent opener to the vent glazing. Use a wrench and screwdriver to tighten these screws so
that at no point does the actuator mechanism bind on the vent itself.
Take the knurled adjuster screw and slip it over the piston rod. Open the vent with one hand and screw the
adjuster in until the unit holds the vent open 1/8” when you let go. If you wish for the vent to open at lower
temperatures, simply screw the adjuster in further and vice versa for a higher temperature. If you wish to totally
disable the Bayliss opener simply back out the knurled adjuster screw from the unit. Remember to place it in a
safe and ‘memorable’ place.
Once the openers have been installed, it is necessary to re-tie all the restraining cords. At this stage the purpose
of the restraining cords is to prevent a vent from being ripped off in windy conditions. With the bottom “E” vents,
open the vent to the maximum opening that the vent opener will allow. Then, with one end of the cord knotted to
the eyebolt, knot the other end of the cord to the screw eye so that the cord is tight. The same applies to the two
“A” top vents. The exception is that they use the longer cord that goes through the eyebolt and is attached to two
screw eyes, one on each leg of the vent frame. With the vent at its maximum opening, knot the end of one end of
the cord to one of the screw eyes so that it is tight. Repeat for the other cord end.
INSTALLING BAYLISS OPENERS
THE RESTRAINING CORDS STAGE 2