Hangar 9 Cap232 User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WE GET PEOPLE FLYING
TM
TM
Specifications
Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 in . . . . . . . . . 2,464 mm
Fuselage Length: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 in . . . . . . . . . 2,286 mm
Wing Area: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1,750 sq in . . . . . . . . 112.9 dm sq
Flight Weight: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 26 lb . . . . . 10.4–11.8 kg
Recommended Engines: . . . . . . . . 60 to 80 cc – gasoline
• 90% Custom built
• Designed by 8-time TOC competitor Mike McConville
• Specifically designed for excellence in precision and 3-D aerobatics
• Prepainted fiberglass cowl and wheelpants
• Plug-in wing and stab
• Precovered with genuine Hangar 9™UltraCote®
• IMAC and Giant Scale legal
• Instructions include 3-D flying tips from Mike McConville

2
Table of Contents
Introduction ......................................................................................................................................... 3
Warning ............................................................................................................................................... 3
Additional Required Equipment ........................................................................................................... 4
Other Items Needed (not included in the kit) ........................................................................................ 5
Tools and Adhesives Needed (not included in the kit) .......................................................................... 5
Additional Needed Items .......................................................................................................................5
Contents of Kit ......................................................................................................................................6
Section 1. Installing the Wing to the Fuselage ............................................................................... 7
Section 2. Installing the Aileron Servos ......................................................................................... 8
Section 3. Installing the Aileron Control Horns ............................................................................ 10
Section 4. Hinging and Sealing the Aileron Control Surfaces ...................................................... 12
Section 5. Installing the Aileron Linkages .................................................................................... 15
Section 6. Installing the Rudder and Elevator Servos ................................................................... 17
Section 7. Installing the Elevator, Control Horns, and Linkages ................................................... 19
Section 8. Installing the Rudder, Control Horns, and Linkages .................................................... 22
Section 9. Installing the Landing Gear and Wheel Pants .............................................................. 24
Section 10. Attaching the Tail Wheel ............................................................................................. 27
Section 11. Installing the Receiver, Battery, and Fuel Tank ............................................................. 28
Section 12. Mounting the Engine and Cowl ................................................................................... 30
Section 13. Hatch Assembly .......................................................................................................... 33
Section 14. Balancing the Model ................................................................................................... 34
Section 15. Radio Setup ................................................................................................................ 34
Section 16. Control Throws ........................................................................................................... 35
Section 17. Preflight at the Field .................................................................................................... 35
Section 18. Setup and Flight Information by Mike McConville ...................................................... 36
AMA Safety Code .............................................................................................................................. 42

3
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing the Hangar 9™33% CAP 232. Because the size and weight create a higher degree for potential danger, an
added measure of care and responsibility is needed when building and flying giant scale models. If this is your first giant scale
aerobatic aircraft, it’s important that you carefully follow the instructions, especially those regarding hinging
(pages 12-14), and the section on flying (36-41).
Like all giant scale aerobatic aircraft, the 1/3 Scale CAP 232 requires powerful, heavy-duty servos. Servos greatly effect the flight
performance, feel, and response of the model. To get the most out of your CAP, it’s important to use accurate, powerful servos with a
minimum of 80 oz/in of torque for elevator and rudder and 60 oz/in torque for each aileron servo. In the prototype models we used
JR 8101s and JR 8411s with excellent results. A less powerful servo can lead to a crash.
The 1/3 Scale CAP 232 does not include hardware. Many experienced giant scale pilots have specific hardware preferences and can
individually choose the components they prefer. Hangar 9 offers an optional Hardware Package (HAN1220-JR, HAN1221-FUT) that
includes the hardware that our staff regularly uses and recommends.
Throughout the manual, the above hardware will be used during the assembly process. If using another type/brand of hardware, it’s
your responsibility to be sure that it’s strong enough for this application and properly installed.
If you encounter difficulty in any construction sequence, please contact one of our technicians. We can provide assistance concerning
the construction of your 1/3 Scale CAP 232. Contact us at:
Horizon Hobby, Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822
[phone]
www.horizonhobby.com
Warning
An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.

4
Zenoah G-62 Zenoah GT-80
Additional Required Equipment
Radio Equipment with Computer Radio
1000mAh receiver battery pack or larger
(4) Servos with 80 oz/in of torque minimum for elevator and rudder
(JR8101, 4721, 2721, or 8411 or equivalent)
(4) Servos with 60 oz/in of torque (aileron)
(1) Servo for throttle
(6) 24" Servo Extension (JRPA102)
(1) 18" Servo Extension (JRPA101)
(2) 3" Servo Extension (JRPA093)
Radio Equipment (Non-Computer Radio)
(1) 1000mAh receiver battery pack or larger
(4) Servos with 80 oz/in of torque minimum for elevator and rudder
(JR8101, 4721, 2721, or 8411 or equivalent)
(4) Servos with 60 oz/in of torque (aileron)
(1) Servo for throttle
(3) Y-Harnesses (JRP133)
(4) 18" Servo Extension (JRPA101)
(2) 12" Servo Extension (JRPA099)
(2) 6" Servo Extension (JRPA095)
Note: Requires one reversed servo for elevator
Recommended JR®Systems
JR XP652
JR XP783
JR XP8103
JR PCM10X
Engine Requirements
62-80cc Gasoline Engine
Recommended Gasoline Engines:
Zenoah®G-62 Gasoline Engine
Zenoah GT-80 Gasoline Engine
JR 8103 JR 10X

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Other Items Needed (not included in the kit)
Zenoah®Gas Start Kit (ZEN20002) Includes:
Kill Switch (ZEN20000)
Oil (2-cycle) (ZEN20001)
Fuel Filler (HAN115)
Fuel Filter (HAN143)
Mixing Cup (HAN3101)
Gas Stopper (DUB400)
3' Fuel Line (DUB799)
Line Keeper (DUB677)
Tools and Adhesives Needed (not included in the kit)
Adhesives
Thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
CA remover/debonder
30-minute epoxy
5-minute epoxy
Silicon glue
Tools
Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 1/8", 5/32", 3/8", 5/16"
Medium Phillips screwdriver
Small straight screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Mixing stick
Straight edge
Jig saw
Soldering iron
Measuring device (e.g., ruler, tape measure)
Additional Needed Items
Zenoah®2" Prop Drive (ZEN20004) (GT-80 only)
41/4" Spinner (Tru-turn TRU4252M)
Propeller (refer to recommendations listed in
your engine’s operating instructions.)
2' gas compatible tubing
Cup engine mount B+B 6202 (G-62 only)
Coarse sandpaper
Radio packing foam
Antenna tube
Canopy glue
Blue Locktite
Electrical tape
Masking tape
Scissors
Moto-tool with cut-off wheel
8-32 Tap (DUB363)
Sealing iron
Glue syringe or toothpick
Hex Wrench: 5/32" and 1/8"
Adjustable wrench
Countersink
12" or longer ruler
36" ruler
1/8" light plywood
1/4"-20x11/2" socket head screws (4) (G-62 only)
1/3 Scale Pilot (HAN8265)
Small cable ties (2)
Paper towels
Rubbing alcohol
Felt-tipped pen/pencil
Hangar 9™UltraCote®(HANU887)
(used for sealing aileron/elevator hinge gap)

6
Contents of Kit
Note: Photos of products may vary slightly from the contents in the box.
Replacement Parts
Fuselage (HAN1251)
Right Wing Panel with Aileron (HAN1252)
Left Wing Panel with Aileron (HAN1253)
Right Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator (HAN1254)
Left Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator (HAN1255)
Rudder (HAN1258)
Wing Tube (HAN1256)
Stabilizer Tubes (2) (HAN1257)
Canopy (HAN1259)
Canopy Hatch (HAN1260)
Fiberglass Painted Cowl (HAN12561)
Wheel Pants (HAN1262)
Landing Gear (HAN1263)
Decal Set (HAN1264)
True Red UltraCote®(HANU866)
White UltraCote®(HANU870)
Pearl Blue UltraCote®(HANU845)
31/2" Wheels (2) (DUB350L)
41/2" 4-40 Threaded Pro-Links (4) (HAN3556)
5" 4-40 Thread Pro-Links (4) (HAN3557)
32 oz Fuel Tank (DUB690)
Tail Wheel Assembly with Hardware (OHI130)
4-40 Ball Links (9) (ROC87)
8-32 Swivel Control Horns (8) (ROC01B)
3/16" Main Axles (DUB249)
Super Hinge Points (24) (ROB309)
4-40 3-D Arm (11/4" long) JR Version (2) (HAN3578)
4-40 HD Arm (1" long) JR Version (6) (HAN3574)
4-40 3-D Arm (11/4" long) Futaba Version (2) (HAN3579)
4-40 HD Arm (1" long) Futaba Version (6) (HAN3575)
Included in the optional Hangar 9™1/3 Scale Hardware Package HAN1220-JR or HAN1221-Futaba)

7
Section 1: Installing the Wing to the Fuselage
Left Wing Panel w/Aileron attached
(taped in place) (HAN1253)
Right Wing Panel w/Aileron attached
(taped in place) (HAN1252)
Fuselage (HAN1251)
Wing Tube (HAN1206)
4-40 cap screw (2)
4-40 split washer (2)
Thick CA glue
CA remover/debonder
Hobby knife w/#11 blade
Drill Bit: 1/16"
4-40 Tap and Drill Bit (DUB361)
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
Step 1. Locate the Wing Tube (HAN1206) and be sure it does
not have any "burrs" on the ends. Also check the tube socket
openings in the fuselage for covering and/or any debris. If you
need to remove any covering or debris from around the inside
of the tube socket openings, use a hobby knife with a sharp
#11 blade and carefully clear the socket openings
Step 2. Be sure the alignment tubes located on the root rib
of each wing panel are securely glued in before installing the
wings. If the tubes are not secure, remove them and apply thick
CA (small amount) into the tube socket and reinstall. Insert the
wing tube into a wing panel and slide the wing in place on the
fuselage. Make sure the wing panel alignment tubes slide into
the holes in the fuselage.
Hint: Reach inside the fuselage and gently "hold" the
alignment tube blocks while inserting the wing panel.
Note: If the wing alignment tubes are difficult to insert into
the internal hardwood blocks located inside the fuselage,
take a small round file (or carefully use your hobby knife)
and adjust the opening in the block so that the alignment
tubes fit properly but snugly.
Step 3. Carefully slide the other wing panel onto the wing tube
that projects from the other side of the fuselage. The fit may be
tight; use caution when inserting the wing panels onto the wing
tube and fuselage. Reach inside the fuselage and hold the wing
alignment tube blocks while inserting the wing half.
Note: The tight fit of the wing tube into the wing panels is
intentional, and it will loosen with use.
Step 4. Locate the holes for the 4-40 cap screws on the top of
each wing approximately 121/2" from the wing root rib. These
holes have been drilled for the 4-40 cap screw and split washer,
allowing the screws to thread into the wing tube.
Step 5. Make sure each wing panel is pushed completely
against the fuselage. Mark the location for the 4-40 cap screw
holes onto the wing tube with a sharp wire or 1/16" drill bit.
We suggest using a small drill bit so the hole in the wing is
not enlarged.
Step 6. After the holes have been marked, remove the wing
panels and drill and tap the wing tube with a 4-40 Tap and Drill
Bit (DUB361). Replace the wing panels on the fuselage and trial
fit the 4-40 cap screws and split washers through the wing
panels and into the wing tube.
Step 7. Remove the wing panels before proceeding with
"Installing the Aileron Servos."

8
Section 2: Installing the Aileron Servos
Wings w/ailerons attached (taped in place)
Not Included
Servos w/mounting hardware (4) (60 oz/in minimum torque)
3" Servo Extension (2) (JRPA093)
24" Servo Extension (2) (JRPA102)
Y-Harness (2) (JRPA133) (3 for non-computer radios)
Included in Optional Hangar 9™Hardware Kit
1" Servo Arms (4) (HAN3574-JR or HAN3575-Futaba)
Phillips screwdriver
Drill
Drill Bit: 1/16"
Electrical tape
Blue Locktite
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
The ailerons require a minimum of 60 oz/in of servo torque.
In the prototype 1/3 Scale CAP 232, we used JR8101 servos.
JR’s 8411s offer a crisp response—the ultimate servo choice.
JR8101 Ultra Precision Wide Bearing
Torque: 90.4 oz/in Speed: .23 sec/60°
Weight: 1.50 oz Size: 0.73" x 1.52" x 1.32"
Motor: Coreless Ball Bearing: Dual
JR8411 Digital Ultra Torque
Torque: 155 oz/in@4.8V Speed: .18 sec/60°
Weight: 2.03 oz Size: 0.73" x 1.52" x 1.32"
Motor: Coreless Ball Bearing: Dual
It is common to use two servos per aileron on many larger
models. However, this setup requires some special attention to
assure that the servos do not fight each other. If this is not done
correctly, battery consumption will be greatly increased, and
in the case of a high torque digital servo, the servos may be
damaged. When setting up the ailerons with two servos, there
are some special steps that need to be taken.
Step 1. Select two sets of servos and Hangar 9™1" arms that
have the same neutral. All servos will have a slightly different
neutral. If you are using Hangar 9 metal arms, they don’t all
orient the same, (i.e., the spline is not oriented the same relative
to the arm). First choose one servo and arm, plug it into the
aileron channel on your receiver through the Y-connection, and
set to EXACT NEUTRAL, (i.e., servo arm is perpendicular to the
servo centerline). Next, start plugging in your other servos one
by one and installing the arms until you find one that is as close
as you can get to the EXACT SAME NEUTRAL as the other servo.
Repeat this process to find a second pair of servos.
Step 2. Install the servo hardware (grommets and eyelets)
included with the servo.
Step 3. Plug a 3" servo extension into two servos and an 24"
servo extension into the other two aileron servos. Tie a knot at
the connector as shown, then wrap with electrical tape to prevent
the servo connectors from pulling apart.

9
Step 4. Insert the servo with the 13" extension into the aileron
cutout on the bottom of the wing closest to the wing root, as shown
below. Be sure the output shaft is oriented toward the trailing edge
of the wing. Insert the second servo with the 18" extension into the
servo cutout located closest to the wing tip. Allow the servo leads to
exit the root of the wing. Refer to the photo below.
Note: The servo wiring method is to be used if a computer
radio is used with Flapperon mixing (recommended). In
this case the Y-harnesses are plugged directly into the
receiver using the aileron and appropriate auxiliary channel
used for flapperon mixing (see your radio’s instructions).
If a non-computer radio is used, then three Y-harnesses and two
12" extensions are required. In this case each of the two servos
should be plugged directly into a Y-harness and a 12" extension
connected to the Y-harness. This lead will exit the root of the wing.
Step 5. Using the screws included with the servos, fasten the
servos in place. You may find it helpful to drill a 1/16" pilot hole
before installing the screws.
Step 6. Remove the stock arms and replace with Heavy-Duty 1"
Servo Arms (HAN3574 JR or HAN3575 Futaba) to give the needed
control throws and to handle the increased loads of the large
surfaces. The arms need to face outward toward the wing tips as
shown in the photo below. Be sure to use a drop of Blue Locktite
to secure the servo arm screws if using metal-geared servos.
CONTINUED
Section 2: Installing the Aileron Servos

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Section 3: Installing the Aileron Control Horns
Wings with ailerons and servos
Included in Optional Hangar 9™Hardware Package
Control Horns (4)
(Rocket City 8-32 Swivel Control Horn #ROC01B)
12" or longer ruler
Drill
Drill Bit: 5 /32"
8-32 Tap (DUB363)
30-minute epoxy
Felt-tipped pen
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
Step 1. Using a straight edge held in alignment (90°) with the
servo arms and with the hinge line as shown, mark the aileron
with a pen where the straight edge intersects the aileron hinge
bevel at both servo locations.
Step 2. Measure exactly 1/4" rearward from the marks above
parallel to the hinge line and make another mark using a pen.
These will be the positions for the control horns.
Step 3. Remove the ailerons from the wing. Use rubbing
alcohol to remove any tape residue. Notice that the hinge pockets
are already cut into place.
Step 4. Using a 5 /32" drill bit and hand drill, carefully drill a
5/32" hole through the aileron at the marked positions. [Drill
perpendicular (90°) to the aileron cross section rather than the
ailerons surface.] Be especially careful when penetrating through
the bottom surface of the aileron, as it’s easy to split out the
wood and rip the covering. Placing a wooden block under the
aileron and drilling slowly will prevent these problems. Counter
sink the top of the aileron to allow the screws to fit flush.
Note: Hardwood blocks (hardpoint) are located below the
sheeting; you will be drilling through these.
90°
Wing Root
Wing Root

11
Step 5. Using an 8-32 tap, tap the holes that you just drilled in
the aileron.
Step 6. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly coat
the inside of the tapped holes and the 8-32 x 2" Rocket City
screws. From the top of the aileron, screw the 8-32 x 2" into the
tapped holes and securely tighten. Wipe away any excess epoxy
with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Screw the A-nuts in
place as shown. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.
Step 7. Screw the molded swivel links onto the inboard 8-32
screw until the distance from the aileron surface to the bottom of
the link is 5 /8". The outboard swivel link will be installed later.
Step 8. Install the control horns in the opposite aileron using
the same method.
CONTINUED
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Control Horns

12
Section 4: Hinging and Sealing the Aileron Control Surfaces
Wings with ailerons
Included in optional Hangar 9™Hardware Package
Robart Super Hinge Points (24) (ROB309)
Not Included
Transparent Hangar 9™UltraCote®(HANU887)
Sealing iron
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Ruler: 36"
Glue Syringe (DLR910) (or toothpick)
Coarse sandpaper
Felt-tipped pen
30-minute epoxy
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
Properly hinging the control surfaces on giant scale models is
vitally important! Poorly installed hinges affect the model’s
precision and control response and can also be dangerous. Each
and every hinge needs to be securely bonded in place in both the
flying surface and the control surface. The hinge pivot points
need to be exactly parallel to each other and precisely located on
the center of the hinge line. We regularly use Robart Super Hinge
Points in all giant scale aircraft. They are easy to install, very
strong, and offer smooth friction-free control. The Hangar 9
1/3 Scale CAP 232 control surfaces are predrilled to use
Robart’s Super Hinge Points.
Step 1. Sand each end of the hinge point hinge using coarse
sandpaper. This will improve the bond of the epoxy to the hinge.
Step 2. Mix 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using a glue syringe
or toothpick, place a sufficient amount of 30-minute epoxy into
one of the hinge pockets on the wing’s trailing edge. Install one
of the hinge points until the hinge point center is flush with the
trailing edge of the wing. Some epoxy should ooze out of the
pocket as the hinge is installed. If not, remove the hinge and
apply more epoxy. After gluing a few hinges, you’ll get the hang
of just how much epoxy is needed. Wipe away any excess epoxy
with rubbing alcohol. Recheck that the center of the hinge point
is flush and parallel with the trailing edge. Continue installing
hinges in the trailing edge of the wings. The control surfaces
(ailerons) will be installed after the epoxy is fully cured.
Note: Be sure that the hinge pivot pins are parallel and
flush to the trailing edge. It’s important to frequently mix a
fresh batch of 30-minute epoxy in order to achieve good
glue joint penetration. If you notice the epoxy becoming
thicker, mix a new batch.

13
Step 3. Allow the epoxy to fully cure for at least six hours.
When cured, work each hinge throughout its full motion several
times using your hands. This will break free any epoxy that may
have found its way into the hinge joint. Move the hinge through-
out its full travel until no resistance is left. This may take as
many as 40 or 50 times.
Step 4. Mix 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using a syringe or
toothpick, place a sufficient amount of epoxy in each of the hinge
pockets in one aileron half.
Step 5. Carefully insert the aileron on the wing, making sure the
hinges are inserted into their respective hinge pockets. Press the
aileron and wing together such that less than 1/64" hinge line
gap exists between the aileron and wing. The bevels should
virtually touch. Using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, wipe
away any visible epoxy around the hinges.
Step 6. Double-check the hinge gap and allow the epoxy to fully
cure for at least six hours. Repeat the process for the other wing half.
Step 7. When the epoxy has fully cured, move each control
surface throughout its travel range several times to break away
any epoxy in the hinge. Be sure to deflect the surface fully.
Sealing the Hinge Gaps
It’s imperative that the aileron and elevator hinge lines be sealed
airtight to prevent flutter. Sealing the hinge line has several
advantages. A sealed hinge line gives a greater control response
for a given control deflection. It also offers more precise,
consistent control responses and makes trimming easier.
Caution: Sealing the aileron and elevator hinge line is
mandatory. Failure to do so may cause control surface
flutter, resulting in a crash.
Section 4: Hinging and Sealing the Aileron Control Surfaces
CONTINUED

14
Step 8. Cut two pieces of transparent UltraCote®(not included)
for sealing the ailerons to approximately 3" x 42". Fold both
pieces of UltraCote®down the center with the adhesive side to
the outside, making a sharp crease at the fold.
Step 9. Using a ruler, measure 1/2" from the folded crease and
mark the pieces with a pen.
Step 10. Using a sharp hobby knife with a #11 blade and a
straight edge, carefully cut through both layers of UltraCote®
covering at the 1/2" point marked in Step 2. Cut both pieces.
Step 11. Mark and cut both folded coverings to an overall
length of 40". These pieces will be inserted and ironed down
into the hinge bevel on the bottom of the ailerons.
Step 12. Remove the backing from one piece of the UltraCote®.
Place the folded crease side to the center of the hinge line on the
bottom of one wing half. Using a straight edge as shown, hold
one side of the covering in place while ironing down the
opposite side with a sealing iron. We recommend setting
the iron temperature to 320°for this operation.
Step 13. Fully deflect the aileron in the up position. Place the
straight edge over the hinge line covering that you just ironed
down in Step 5 with the edge of the straight edge placed firmly at
the bottom of the hinge line as shown. Iron down this side of the
covering, making sure the aileron is fully deflected.
Step 14. Repeat the process for the other aileron.
CONTINUED
Section 4: Hinging and Sealing the Aileron Control Surfaces

15
Section 5: Installing the Aileron Linkages
Wings with ailerons attached
Included in Optional Hangar 9™Hardware Kit
5" 4-40 Pro-Links (4) (HAN3557)
4-40 Ball Links (4) (ROC87)
Small Screwdriver
Blue Locktite
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
Step 1. Screw a 4-40 ball link five to six turns onto a 5" long
4-40 linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage five to six
turns into the clevis that is to attach to the swivel control horn
that was installed in Section 3. Attach the linkage to the swivel
horn on the inboard servo only with the bolt supplied. Adjust the
linkage length until the hole in the ball link aligns with the outer
hole in the servo arm when the aileron is neutral and the servo
arm is centered.
Note: Hangar 9 Titanium Pro-Links feature right-hand
threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other,
allowing for easy, accurate adjustment without discon-
necting the linkages. Consistently putting the right-hand
threads toward the servo arms on all servos will prevent
you from getting confused as to which way to turn the
linkage to lengthen or shorten the link. Hangar 9 also offers
a Pro-Link Wrench (HAN3558) to make adjustments easier.
Step 2. Using the 4-40 screws (don’t substitute a standard
screw) and nuts included in the Rocket City package, attach the
ball link to the outer hole in the arm from the bottom side as
shown on both servos. The sequence is screw, ball link, servo
arm, and nut. Don’t forget to use blue Locktite. The tapered
standoff is not used.
Step 3. Temporarily plug the servos into the receiver and set
the programming to get the aileron functioning correctly (see
page 32 of the manual for correct control throws). Only the
inboard aileron is driving the aileron at this time.
Step 4. Set the control horn for the outboard servo the same
distance from the aileron centerline (not bottom surface of
aileron) as the inboard servo.

16
Step 5. Deflect the ailerons stick to full right. Hold it there
(easiest way to have your TX set to PCM: hold and then turn off
the TX). Hold the clevis on the outboard servo up to the horn and
note how the holes align. Turn the transmitter on and hold full
left aileron and again note how the holes align. The holes have to
line up nearly perfectly. If they don't line up perfectly, adjust the
horn length (distance out from the aileron) in or out a few turns,
and recheck. Repeat this process until it is nearly perfect at full
deflection in both stick directions and at neutral.
Step 6. Attach the swivel clevis to the horn with the supplied
screw.
Section 5: Installing the Aileron Linkages
CONTINUED

17
Section 6: Installing the Rudder and Elevator Servos
Fuselage
Not included
Servos (4) (a minimum of 80 oz/in of torque)
w/mounting hardware
Small cable ties (2)
Using a computer radio
24" Servo Extensions (4) (JRPA102)
Using a non-computer radio
Y-Harnesses (3) (JRPA133)
18" Servo Extensions (4) (JRPA099)
Note: If using a non-computer radio, one of the servos used
for elevator must be a reversed-direction servo. See the
"Radio Setup" section for more details on page 34.
Included in optional Hangar 9™Hardware Kit
1" Heavy-Duty Servo Arms for Elevator (2)
(HAN3574-JR or HAN3575-Futaba)
11/4" Heavy-Duty Servo Arms for Rudder (2)
(HAN3578-JR or HAN 3579-Futaba)
41/2" 4-40 Linkages (4) (HAN3556)
4-40 Ball Links (4) (ROC87)
Swivel Control Horns (2) (ROC01B)
Phillips screwdriver
Small straight screwdriver
Parts Needed
The rudder and elevators require a minimum of 80 in/oz of servo
torque. In the prototype 1/3 Scale CAP 232, we used JR8101 and
JR8411 servos with excellent results. Using servos with less
torque could cause a crash.
Computer Radio
Step 1. If using a 7-channel or greater computer radio with
mixing (highly recommended), install four 24" servo extensions,
one on each servo. Tie a knot at each connector and tape to
prevent inadvertent disconnection. Also install the servo
hardware (grommets and eyelets) at this time.
Non-Computer Radio
Step 1a. If using a non-computer radio, install four 18" servo
extensions, one on each servo. Tape and tie a knot at each
connector to prevent inadvertent disconnection. Install one side
only of the two Y-harnesses to two of the servos, also tying knots
to prevent disconnection. The other two servos will be hooked up
to the Y-harness when installed in the airplane. One elevator
servo will need to be a reversed-direction servo.
Tools and Adhesives Needed

18
Step 2a. Install the servos in the fuselage tail section with the
output shaft to the rear as shown in the photo below. If using a
non-computer radio, be sure to install one of the servos with the
Y-harness attached in the top opening (elevator) and the other
servo with the Y-harness attached in the bottom opening
(rudder). Install the other servos in the opposite side of the
fuselage being sure to connect the servo to the other open
connector of the respective Y-harnesses. Don’t forget to knot
and tape the connectors.
Note: One of the elevator servos must be a reversed servo.
Step 3a. Using the screws included with the servos, fasten the
servos in place. You may find it helpful to drill a 1/16" pilot hole
before installing the screws.
Note: With some servos, such as the JR 8411, it is
necessary to install the Lite-Ply servo spacers to
the outside of the fuselage to prevent the rudder servos
from touching each other.
Section 6: Installing the Rudder and Elevator Servos
CONTINUED

19
Section 7: Installing the Elevator, Control Horns, and Linkages
Stabilizers w/elevators
4-40 x 3/8" screws (2)
Tail tubes (2)
#4 split washers (2)
Not Included
Transparent Hangar 9™UltraCote®(HANU887)
Sealing iron
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Included in Optional Hangar 9™Hardware Package
Robart Hinge Points (ROB309)
Rocket City B-32 Swivel Control Horn (ROC01B)
Control horns (2)
4-40 Ball Links (2) (ROC87)
4-40 Pro-Links (2) (HAN3556)
Drill
Drill Bit: 5/32"
8-32 Tap (DUB363)
30-minute epoxy
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Ruler
Hex Wrench: 5/32"
The technique for installing the control horns in the elevators is
similar to the aileron control horn installation.
Step 1. To properly locate the position of the control horn on
the bottom of the elevator, measure inward 11/8" from the root
and rearward 1/4" from the top of the bevel. Mark this position
on both elevators.
Step 2. Using a 5/32" drill bit and hand drill, carefully drill a
5/32" hole through the elevators at the above marked position.
It’s important to drill 90°to the elevator’s centerline to the
elevator’s surface. Be especially careful when penetrating
through the bottom surface of the elevator as it’s easy to split out
the wood and rip the covering. Placing a wooden block under the
elevator and drilling slowly will prevent these problems. If you
choose to use the counter sink screws included, counter sink the
top of the elevator to allow the screws to fit flush.
Step 3. Using an 8-32 tap, thread the holes that you just drilled
in the elevators.
1/4"
1 1/8"
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

20
Step 4. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly coat
the inside of the threaded holes and the 8-32 x 2" Rocket City
screw. From the top of the elevator, thread the 8-32 screws into
the tapped holes and tighten. Wipe away any excess epoxy with
rubbing alcohol and paper towels.
Step 5. Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw until
the distance from the elevator surface to the bottom of the link is
5/8". Repeat this for the other elevator.
Step 6. Glue the elevator hinges in place using the same
techniques used to hinge the ailerons. After hinging the elevator,
use the same techniques to seal the elevator hinge gaps. Use
transparent UltraCote®for the bottom of the elevator.
Note: Since the holes in the long stabilizer tube are not
drilled or tapped, you will have to make sure this is done
so the stabilizers can be securely attached to the fuselage.
Check the tube opening sockets on both sides of the
fuselage and remove any covering or debris with a sharp
#11 blade.
Step 7. Locate the holes in each of the stabilizer’s top surface.
The holes have been drilled for the 4-40 cap screw and split
washer. These screws are used to secure each stabilizer to the
fuselage. The longer of the two tail tubes will require holes to be
drilled in each end for the 4-40 cap screws.
Step 8. Insert the shorter of the tail tubes into the forward hole
in the rear of the fuselage. Insert the longer of the tail tubes into
the rear hole in one of the stabilizers halves, then insert into the
rear hole of the fuselage and slide it onto the smaller tube in the
fuselage until it touches the side of the fuselage. This may fit
tightly; use caution not to damage the stabilizer half.
Section 7: Installing the Elevator, Control Horns, and Linkages
CONTINUED