Hangar 9 EDGE 540 User manual

PRE-BUILT
90
%
54
0540
EDGE
EDGE
Ultra Aerobatic 1.20 ARF
EDGE
EDGE
EDGE
EDGE
TM
TM
Specifications
Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78′′ 198.10 cm
Length: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.5′′ 174 cm
Wing Area:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1010 sq. in 651.6 dm2
Weight (Approx.): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11-13 lbs 5-5.9 kg
Recommended Engines: 1.08 –1.50 2-Stroke
1.20 –1.80 4-Stroke
• 90% prebuilt
• High-quality hardware included
• Precovered in genuine Goldberg UltraCote®
• Prefinished fiberglass cowl and wheel pants
INSTRUCTION MANUAL

2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction 3
Warning 3
Additional Required Equipment 3
Tools and Supplies Required (not included in kit) 4
Contents of Kit 5
Section 1. Hinging the Ailerons 6
Section 2. Joining the Wing Halves 9
Section 3. Installing the Aileron Servos 12
Section 4. Installing the Aileron Linkages 14
Section 5. Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage 16
Section 6. Installing the Tail (Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizers) 17
Section 7. Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator(s) 20
Section 8. Hinging the Rudder and Installing the Tailwheel 21
Section 9. Installing the Rudder and Elevator Control Horns 23
Section 10. Mounting the Main Landing Gear 26
Section 11. Assembling and Mounting the Wheel Pants 27
Section 12. Installing the Engine (2/4 Stroke) 29
Section 13. Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank 30
Section 14. Installing the Radio 32
Section 15. Installing the Control Linkages (Rudder/Elevator/Throttle) 34
Section 16. Attaching the Cowling 37
Section 17. Mounting the Hatch (with Canopy) 39
Section 18. Adding Decals 41
Section 19. Balancing the Edge 540 42
Section 20. Control Throw Recommendation 42
Set-up & Flying by Mike McConville 43
Preflight at the Field 49
AMA Safety Code 50

Saito 1.80
MDS 1.48
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing the Hangar 9 Edge 540. This is the latest aerobatic line of fine ARFs (Almost-Ready-to-Fly) produced by
Hangar 9. The Edge 540 is a high-performance aircraft best suited for the more experienced flyer and modeler. Although this is an
ARF, it does have some construction features that can be challenging for a new modeler. If you encounter difficulty in any construction
sequence, please contact one of our technicians. We provide any assistance we can concerning the construction of your Edge 540.
Please feel free to contact us at:
Horizon Hobby, Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822
[phone]
www.horizonhobby.com
Warning
An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.
Additional Required Equipment
Radio Equipment
4 channels minimum
5 servos (50 in/oz plus servo for standard flying
and 90 in/oz plus servos for 3-D flying)
1100mAh Receiver Battery (JRPB4240)
Y-Harness (if not using a computer radio) (JRP133)
12” Aileron Extensions (2) (JRPA098)
Engine Requirements:
1.08 – 1.48 2-cycle engines
1.20 – 1.80 4-cycle engines
Recommended 2-Cycle Engines Recommended 4-Cycle Engines
Webra 1.20 Saito 1.20 – 1.80
Moki 1.35 Saito 1.20 GK – 1.80 GK
MDS 1.48
Additional Items Optional Items
12” Aileron Extension (2) (JRPA098)
3” Tru-Turn Spinner (TRU 3002)
True Turn Adapter for specific engine
Propeller:
MDS 1.48 = 16” x 8” (recommended)
Saito 1.80 = 16” x 8” (recommended)
Fuel tubing
3
Recommended JR Radio Systems:
JR400EX JR XP783
JR 421EX JR XP8103
JR XP652 JR PCM10X
Fuel Dot (HAN115)
Pitts style muffler for
specific engine (if using MDS 1.48)
Fuel Filter (HAN143)
Foam for cushioning radio and fuel tank
(DUB513)
Antenna Tube (HAN112)
Pilot figure (HAN8272 or HAN8275)
Instrument Panel (HAN186)

4
Tools and Supplies Required
Adhesives
Thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue
Thick CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue
6-Minute Epoxy (HAN8000)
30-Minute Epoxy (HAN8002)
Tools
Drill
Drill bits: 1/16'', 1/18'', 5/32'', 1/14''
Soldering iron
Phillips screwdriver
Z-bend pliers
CA remover/debonder
Standard pliers
Mixing sticks
5/32” hex wrench
Medium sandpaper
Moto-tool with sanding drum and cut-off wheel
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Masking tape
Threadlock Z-42 (Pacer)
Canopy Glue (Pacer PAAPT56)
Silver Solder (Staybrite)
Epoxy brushes
Scissors
Straight edge
Rubbing alcohol
1/16” hex wrench
Sanding stick (medium)
Small round file
Paper towels
Felt-tipped pen or pencil
90-degree triangle
Measuring device (36”)

5
Contents of Kit
Large Parts
Fuselage (HAN1351)
Left Wing Half with Aileron (HAN1352)
Right Wing Half with Aileron (HAN1352)
Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder (HAN1353)
Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator(s) ( HAN1353)
Cowl (HAN1354)
Wheel Pants (HAN1355)
Hatch (HAN1358)
Other Parts
Main landing gear (HAN1356)
Wheels (2) (HAN2027)
Fuel tank and hardware (HAN1460)
Trim sheets (HAN1359)
Metal motor mount and hardware (HAN2033)
Tail wheel assembly (HAN2026)
Canopy (HAN1357)
Note: Instrument Panel (HAN186) is optional.
1/4 scale pilot optional (HAN8272 or HAN8275)

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Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators,
and rudder, are prehinged with hinges installed, but
the hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative that
you properly adhere the hinges in place per the steps
that follow using a high-quality thin CA glue.
Step 1. Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing
panels. Note the position of the hinges. The Edge 540 comes
with high-quality CA-type hinges.
Step 2. Remove each hinge from the wing panel and aileron
and place a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge
into the aileron until the T-pin is snug against the aileron. This
will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of
the hinge line when the aileron is mounted to the wing panel.
Step 3. Slide the aileron on the wing panel until there is only a
slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel and
aileron. Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron against the wing
panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the
wing panel and aileron.
Step 4. Deflect the aileron and completely saturate each hinge
with thin CA glue. The aileron’s front surface should lightly
contact the wing during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges
are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained
throughout the length of the aileron to the wing panel hinge line.
Note: The hinge is constructed of a special material that
allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distribute
throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the
wood structure of the wing panel and aileron.
Step 5. Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in the
opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to
each hinge, making sure that the CA penetrates into both the
aileron and wing panel.
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons
• Right wing panel with aileron and hinges
• Left wing panel with aileron and hinges
• Instant thin CA glue
• CA remover/debonder
• Paper towels
• T-pin (one for each hinge)(optional procedure)
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

7
Step 6. Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel,
remove any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the
wing or in the aileron hinge area.
Step 7. Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely
hinging the aileron in place.
Step 8. After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp
the wing panel and aileron to make sure the hinges are securely
glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully applying
medium pressure, trying to separate the aileron from the wing
panel. Use caution not to crush the wing structure.
Note: Work the aileron up and down several times to “work
in” the hinges and check for proper movement.
Sealing the Hinge Gaps
It’s imperative that the aileron and elevator hinge lines be sealed
airtight to prevent flutter. Sealing the hinge line has several
advantages. A sealed hinge line gives a greater control response
for a given control deflection. It also offers more precise,
consistent control response and makes trimming easier.
Sealing the aileron and elevator hinge line is
mandatory. Failure to do so may cause control surface
flutter, resulting in a crash.
Step 9. Cut a piece of clear or blue UltraCote®(not included)
for sealing the ailerons to approximately 3'' x 28''. Fold the
UltraCote®down the center with the adhesive side to the outside
making a sharp crease at the fold.
Step 10. Using a ruler, measure 3/8'' from the folded crease
and mark two places with a pen.
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons
CONTINUED

8
Sealing the Hinge Gaps (continued)
Step 11. Using a sharp #11 blade and a straight edge, carefully
cut through both layers of UltraCote®covering at the 3/8'' point
marked in Step 2.
Step 12. Mark and cut the folded covering to an overall length
of 25 5/6''. This piece will be inserted and ironed down into the
hinge bevel on the bottom of the aileron.
Step 13. Remove the backing from the UltraCote®. Place the
folded crease side into the center of the hinge line on the bottom
of the wing. Using a straight edge as shown, hold one side of the
overing in place while ironing down theopposite side with a
sealing iron. We recommend setting the iron temperature to
320° for this operation.
Step 14. Fully deflect the aileron in the up position. Place the
straight edge over the hinge line covering that you just ironed
down in Step 5 with the edge of the straight edge placed firmly at
the bottom of the hinge line as shown. Iron down this side of the
covering, making sure the aileron is fully deflected.
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons
CONTINUED

9
Step 1. Locate the plywood wing joiner. Using the ruler,
determine the center of the wing joiner and mark it with a felt-
tipped pen or pencil.
Step 2. Trial fit the wing joiner into one of the wing panels. It
should insert smoothly up to the center line marked in Step 1.
Now slide the other wing panel onto the wing joiner until the
wing panels meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may be necessary to
sand the wing joiner.
Step 3. The correct dihedral angle for the wing is 0 degrees (at
the center line). Place the wing on a large flat surface one wing
panel resting on the flat surface. The other wing tip should be at
11/8'' in height from the surface (see illustration below). If
necessary, sand the wing joiner until this is achieved. There
should be no gaps in the wing center. Once you are satisfied
with the fit, remove the wing joiner from the wing panels.
Step 4. Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy.
Note: It is extremely important to use plenty of epoxy when
joining the wing panels together. It will also be helpful
to use wax paper under the wing center when epoxying
the wing panels together.
Step 5. Using an epoxy brush or a scrap piece of wood, apply a
generous amount of epoxy into the wing dihedral cavity in one
wing panel.
Step 6. Coat one half of the wing joiner with epoxy up to the
line marked in Step 1. Install the epoxy-coated side of the
dihedral brace into the wing panel cavity up to the marked
center line.
• Right/left wing panels
• Dihedral brace
• Plywood wing dowel plate
• Wooden dowels
• Wing bolt plates
• Wing trim tape
• 30-minute epoxy
• 6-minute epoxy
• Mixing stick
• Epoxy brush
• Masking tape
• Hobby knife w/#11 blade
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves
• Rubbing alcohol
• Paper towels
• Wax paper
• Ruler
• Felt-tipped pen or pencil
• Medium sandpaper
Flat Surface
11/8''
0°

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Step 7. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the other wing
panel cavity.
Note: You may need to mix up more epoxy to complete the
joining process.
Step 8. Now apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed wing
joiner and uniformly coat both wing roots with epoxy.
Step 9. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly
press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. There
should not be any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing alcohol
and a paper towel to clean up any excess epoxy.
Step 10. Apply masking tape at the wing joint to hold the wing
halves together securely. Place the wing on a flat surface. With
the center wing panels firmly supported to lay flat on the surface,
the wing tips should be propped up so it is 11/8'' from the surface.
Apply more masking tape the center wing joint and recheck the
11/8'' measurement. Allow the wing joint to dry overnight.
Note: It is useful to use wax paper underneath the wing
center while the epoxy is curing. This will help prevent
excess epoxy from adhering to the work surface.
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves
CONTINUED

11
Step 11. Allow the wing center joint to completely cure, then
remove the masking tape.
Step 12. You can mount the two yellow-covered plywood rear
wing bolt plates next.
Note: The covering will have to be trimmed away from
the area of the top of the wing so the pieces can be
epoxied to the wing. Use care not to cut into the wood
structure of the wing.
Trial fit the pieces, marking their location. Use a sharp hobby
knife to trim away the covering over the bolt holes..
Step 13. Mix 1/4 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and epoxy the wing
bolt plates to the top of the wing. The wing bolt plate holes will
be drilled out later.
Step 14. Locate the yellow and blue center trim tape. Apply a
portion to the center of the top and bottom of the wing center
after the epoxy has cured from Step 13.
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves
CONTINUED

12
Step 1. Locate the servo opening in one of the wing halves.
Install the recommended servo hardware supplied with your radio
system onto your servos (grommets and eyelets). Install a servo
extension lead to the servo (a 12” extension is recommended).
Secure the connectors by tying a knot in the leads and wrapping
with electrical tape. This will prevent the connectors from
becoming accidentally disconnected inside the wing.
Step 2. Trial fit the servo into the servo opening.Trimming
may be required, depending on the type of servo installed.
Step 3. With the servo in place, mark the location of the servo
screws used to mount the servo to the plywood servo rail inside
the wing servo opening.
Step 4. Using a 1/16”drill bit, drill the servo screw locations
marked in the previous step.
Step 5. Before mounting the servo, run the servo lead and
extension through the wing and out the opening provided near
the wing center. The servo lead exit is located on the top of the
wing. Turn the wing over and look for an opening near the center
of the wing close to where the wing joiner slot is.
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos
• Left/right wing halves
• Servos (2)
• Servo extension(s) (2-12” recommended)
• Y-harness (if using a non-computer radio)
• String and a weight to run servo extensions
through the wing
• Hobby knife
• Phillips screwdriver
• Drill
• Drill bit: 1/16”
• Masking tape
• Electrical tape
• Pencil or felt-tipped pen
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Step 6. Use a piece of string with a small weight (bolt from
engine mounting hardware) attached as a device to attach to one
end of the servo lead extension and thread through the servo
opening, through the wing, and out the servo lead exit. Other
methods can be used to thread the servo leads through the wing,
but we have found this method is the quickest.
Step 7. Once you have threaded the string and weight through
the wing, attach the string to one end of the servo lead and
carefully thread it through the wing. Once you have threaded the
lead through the wing, remove the string so it can be used for
the other servo lead.
Step 8. To prevent the lead from falling back into the wing, use
masking tape to temporarily hold it in place by taping the lead to
the top of the wing.
Step 9. Repeat the procedure for the other wing half .
Note: If you are using a non-computer radio, it will be
necessary to use a Y-harness to connect both aileron
servos to the aileron channel of the receiver.
Step 10. Insert the servo into the cutout in the bottom of the
wing. Make sure the output shaft of the servo is orientated
closest to the leading edge of the wing.
Step 11. Use the screws included with the servos to fasten the
aileron servos in place.
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos
CONTINUED

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Step 1. For this assembly, you will be using two 3-3/4”
threaded rods, four clevis, four 4-40 nuts, and a regular and a
reverse metal control horn. Use the 4-40 nuts as locking devices
to keep the clevis from turning. There is also a locking clip that
keeps the clevis from opening. The reverse control horn has an
“R” marked on its base; the standard horn has no marking. For
illustration purposes, we will describe the installation of the
aileron linkage on the right wing panel (bottom).
Step 2. Thread a 4-40 nut and clevis on each end of the
threaded rod. Next locate the standard horn. The link assembly
goes on the 2nd outer hole from the end as shown below.
Step 3. The metal clevis will attach to the servo arm that points
to the wing tip. If you wish, the other three arms can be trimmed
off. To establish the position of each of the clevis on the threaded
rod, trial fit the horn and linkage to the servo arm. Adjustments
in length are made by screwing one or both clevises in or out.
Step 4. The servo arm should be positioned so it is pointing to
the wing tip. When installing the control horn, the holes in the
control horns (where the pushrod attaches) should be in line
with the control surface hinge line.
Note: If using 3-D throws, use a heavy duty servo arm
(JRPA215 for JR Servos.)
Step 5. Once you are satisfied with the metal control horn
location (it should be a straight line from the servo arm to the
horn), mark the location of the screw holes with a felt-tipped pen
or pencil. The hinge line and the control rod should be at
90-degree angle to achieve proper mechanical efficiency.
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkages
• Wing assembly from Section 2
• Left control horn
• Right (reversed) control horn
• Plastic plate (2)
• Screws (8)
• Short (3-3/4” x 4-40) threaded rod (both ends)(2)
• 4/40 metal clevis (4)
• Locking clips for clevis (4)
• 4/40 nuts (4)
• Heavy duty servo arm (JRPA215) (Optional for 3-D throws)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Drill
• Drill bits: 1/16”, 3/32”
• Felt-tipped pen or pencil
• Moto-tool (optional)
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

15
Step 6. Use a 3/32” drill bit to drill the screw holes for
mounting the control horn. We suggest you apply a thin coat of
CA into the aileron through the drilled holes help stiffen the
balsa in the mounting area.
Step 7. Attach the control horn to the aileron using four screws
and the plastic plate. Be careful not to accidentally puncture the
covering with the screwdriver. We suggest putting masking tape
around the horn area to help protect it from dents or scrapes.
Step 8. Repeat the process for the other aileron on the other
wing panel.
Note: The control horn mounting screws may be
excessively long on some control surfaces, and you
may wish to cut off the excess using a Moto-tool and
cut-off wheel. Leave a minimum of 1/8” of mounting
screw above the plastic plate.
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage
CONTINUED

16
Step 1. Locate the forward mounting bolt holes in the wing.
Trim the covering from the mounting bolt holes with a sharp
hobby knife
Step 2. Place the wing onto the fuselage. Use care as the first
few times the wing is inserted, the fit is snug. Note the tolerance
between the wing and the fuselage. There is little movement of
the wing once it is in the fuselage wing saddle area. You can
check the alignment of the wing to the centerline of the fuselage
by making a reference mark at the tail of the fuselage, then
measuring each wing tip to make sure the wing is aligned.
Step 3. With the wing centered in the fuselage wing saddle
area, secure it with masking tape so it will not move from side to
side. Measure from wing-tip to the center of the fuselage at the
rear. When you are satisfied with the alignment then proceed.
Step 4. Using the front wing bolt holes as a guide, drill through
the wing and plywood wing support in the fuselage with a 1/4”
drill bit. Drill 90 degrees to the centerline of the wing chord.
Step 5. Use the holes in the top wing bolt plates at the trailing
edge of the wing as a guide to drill two holes into the plywood
wing support at the rear of the hatch area in the fuselage. Again,
drill at 90 degrees to the wing chord line.
Step 6. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Trial fit the blind
nuts into position under the fuselage plywood wing supports at
the front and back of the fuselage hatch opening. Use pliers with
an adjustable opening to squeeze the blind nuts into position so
the “teeth” penetrate the wood and stay in place.
Note: It is a good idea to place a piece of scrap wood on the
top side of the plywood wing hold down blocks when
pressing the blind nuts into place.
Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage
• Wing
• Fuselage
• Wing hold down hardware
• Hobby knife with #11 blade
• 30-minute epoxy
• Epoxy brush
• Mixing stick
• Rubbing alcohol
• Felt-tipped pen or pencil
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
• Pliers
• Ruler
• Drill
• Drill bit, 1/4”
• Round file
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Step 7. Once the blind nuts are in place, trial fit the wing onto
the fuselage and insert the nylon mounting bolts. Tighten
enough to hold the wing in place but do not completely tighten.
Check the alignment of the wing to the reference point on the
fuselage again as done in Step 2. When you are satisfied with
the alignment, tighten securely. Remove the bolts and wing.
Apply some 30-minute epoxy to the blind nuts to secure them.
Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, carefully remove the tape
holding the shaped fairing blocks onto the fuselage. Note they
are in two separate pieces and fit over the horizontal stabilizer
and around the vertical stabilizer.
Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage
CONTINUED
Section 6: Installing the Tail
Fuselage
• Fuselage
• Wing
• Horizontal stabilizer with elevators
• Vertical stabilizer with rudder
• Thin CA glue
• CA Remover/debonder
• 30-minute epoxy
• Epoxy brush
• Mixing stick
• Hobby knife with #11 blade
• Straight edge (36”)
• Felt-tipped pen or pencil
• Masking tape
• Rubbing alcohol
• Paper towels
• Ruler
• 90-degree triangle
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

18
Step 2. Trim away the covering over the elevator and rudder
linkage openings on both sides of the fuselage at the tail. Look
carefully, and you will see the slots. Trim away the covering
using a sharp hobby knife.
Step 3. Carefully remove any the tape holding the elevators to
the horizontal stabilizer and remove the elevators. Measure the
center of the fuselage at the forward bulkhead where the front of
the horizontal stabilizer will rest, and the plywood plate at the
rear or the fuselage. Using a ruler, mark the center line of the
horizontal stabilizer
Step 4. Trial fit the horizontal stabilizer onto the rear of the
fuselage. Install the elevators to check the distance between them
and the rear of the fuselage to make sure there is no binding.
Note that the fit is very close. Use masking tape to hold the
horizontal stabilizer in place while making measurements. Check
to see if the elevators will function without binding when the
horizontal stabilizer is centered on the marks made in Step 3.
Step 5. Attach the wing and measure from the front tips of the
horizontal stabilizer to the wing tips. Each should be the same
distance from the wing. Make any adjustments necessary to
make sure the horizontal stabilizer is aligned with the wing.
Step 6. When you are satisfied with the position of the
horizontal stabilizer, use a felt- tipped pen or pencil to mark the
bottom of the horizontal stabilizer next to the fuselage. Remove
the horizontal stabilizer and trim away the covering 1/8” inside
the marks you made. Being very careful no to cut or even
score the balsa wood below the covering. This will
provide for a more secure epoxy joint when the horizontal
stabilizer is epoxied to the fuselage.
Step 7. Reinstall the wing and mix approximately 2 ounces of
30-minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy to the tail where the horizontal
stabilizer will be mounted and to the bare wood of the horizontal
stabilizer. Reposition the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage,
Section 6: Installing the Tail
CONTINUED
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making sure you align it with the reference marks made
previously. Then align the stab so that it is square with the wing
when sighted from the front. Wipe away any excess epoxy with
rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Be sure there is no epoxy in
the area where the two tail pieces will go. Hold in position with
masking tape. Allow the epoxy to cure.
Step 8. Carefully remove the tape holding the rudder to the
vertical stabilizer. Trial fit the vertical stabilizer to the fuselage
and trial fit the two fin fairing blocks. Some trimming of the
fairing blocks may be necessary to obtain a good fit. Hold in
place with masking tape.
Mark the position where the vertical stabilizer meets the
tailpieces with a felt-tipped pen or pencil. The mark should leave
a slight indentation in the covering. Carefully remove the vertical
stabilizer and tail pieces. Remove the covering 1/8” from where
you made the marks, using the procedure as described in Step 6.
Caution: Do not cut into the wood below the covering.
This will weaken the structure.
Step 9. Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and
apply to the vertical stabilizer and tail post where it contacts the
fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. Be sure to apply epoxy to the
base of the vertical stabilizer. Insert the vertical stabilizer into the
fuselage tail area and wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing
alcohol and a paper towel
Step 10. Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy.
Apply epoxy to both fairing blocks and mount to the horizontal
and vertical stabilizers. Wipe away any excess epoxy. Use
masking tape to hold the two fairing blocks in place.
Section 6: Installing the Tail
CONTINUED

20
Step 1. Locate the elevator and hinges. Carefully remove the
tape holding the elevators in place. Fit the elevators into the
proper position on the horizontal stabilizer, using the same
hinging techniques learned in Section 1. Check to make sure
there is no binding of movement.
Step 2. With one elevator half properly aligned (left and right),
apply thin CA glue to the hinges on both sides (be sure to
remove the t-pins first). Wipe away any excess CA with CA
debonder and a paper towel.
Section 6: Installing the Tail
CONTINUED
Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer
and Elevator(s)
Fuselage
• Fuselage with Vertical and horizontal stabilizers attached
• Elevators (2)
• Thin CA glue
• CA remover/debonder
• Paper towels
• T-pins
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
Step 11. Carefully check the alignment of the vertical stabilizer
to the horizontal stabilizer. A 90-degree triangle is helpful here.
Use masking tape to hold the components in alignment. Allow
the epoxy to dry completely cured.