LOCATIONS FOR THE IMMOBILISER RELAY
If Immobiliser relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the under-dash panel, they easily can be bypassed. Always
make the relay and its connections difficult to discern from the factory wiring! Exposed yellow butt connectors do not look like factory parts,
and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing the Immobiliser relay wires away from the steering column is recommended.
Finding the wires you need
Now that you have decided where each component will be located, youʼre going to find the wires in the car that the security system will be
connected to:
IMPORTANT: do not use a 12v test light to find these wires! Use a digital multimeter for all testing.
OBTAINING CONSTANT 12V
We recommend two possible sources for 12v constant: the (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to the ignition switch. Always
install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. If the fuse also will be powering other circuits, such as door locks, a power window
module, headlight control system etc, fuse accordingly.
FINDING THE 12V SWITCHED IGNITION WIRE
The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position. This is because the ignition wire powers the ignition system (spark
plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer). Accessory wires lose power when the key is in the start
position to make current available to the starter motor.
How to find (+) 12v ignition with your multimter:
1. Set to DCV or Dc voltage (12v or 20v is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steering column harness or ignition switch harness is an excellent place
to find this wire.
4. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position. if your meter reads (+)12v, go to the next step. If it doesnʼt, probe another wire.
5. Now turn the key to the start position. the meter display should stay steady, not dropping more than a few tenths of a volt. If it
drops close to or all the way to zero, go back to Step 3. If it stays steady at (+) 12v, you have found an ignition wire.
FINDING THE DOOR PIN SWITCH CIRCUIT
The best places to find the door switch wire are:
• At the pin switch: when testing the pin switch, check wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often, the passenger switch will
cover all the doors even if the driverʼs switch will not.
• At the dome light: this may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed dome light supervision, but it will work in many
Hondas, or any vehicle with completely diode-isolated pin switches.
Once you have determined the wire colour, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel, at the windshield pillar, or in the
running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the dome light itself is often best solution.
How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or Dc voltage (12v or 20V is fine).
2. In most Fords, fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. In most other cars, fasten the (+) probe of your meter to (+) 12v
contant.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+) 12v when any door is opened, you have found a
trigger wire.
MAKING YOUR WIRING CONNECTIONS
There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection – solder connections and crimp connectors. When properly performed, either
type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your connections or you use mechanical-type crimp on
connections are mechanically sound and that they are insulated.
Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather. Use good quality electrical
tape or heat shrink.
• Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering
• Never use “fuse Taps”, as the can damage fuse box terminals.
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