
6
Pump
Maintenance
Disconnect wires and remove
connection box.
4. After chamber is drained,
remove hold-down bolts on
motor housing and lift off. Use
care in lifting as the seal failure
connecting wire must be
disconnected before housing
is completely removed. See
sectional drawing.
5. The stator is held in the
housing with a bolted-in
retaining ring and prevented
from rotating by a roll pin.
6. Remove the retaining ring and
socket head cap screw.
7. After ring is removed, turn
housing upright and bump on
hardwood block. This should
jar the stator loose and allow it
to drop out.
8. Thoroughly clean housing
before replacing new stator.
Replace stator and make
all wire connections to
connection box before
replacing housing on pump.
See motor lead connection
drawing. This is important as
leads must be tucked behind
the windings by using hands
up through rotor core.
IMPORTANT: Use only butt
connections on the wires.
Do not tape leads as oil will
deteriorate the tape and cause
damage to stator and bearings.
9. Check top bearing. If the
bearing is clean and does not
turn rough, bearings can be
reused. If bearings are
damaged with dirt or heat,
they must be replaced. See
additional instructions on
replacing seals and bearings.
10.Replace stator housing onto
seal chamber and bolt in
place. Be sure seal failure
wires are connected before
housing is assembled.
Be sure O-ring seal has been
replaced. If O-ring is nicked or
cut, replace with new ring.
This applies to all O-rings used
in assembly.
11.After all leads are reconnected
in the connection box, make a
high voltage ground test on
each wire. The only wire that
should show ground is the
green power lead and the
ground head in the auxiliary
control cable.
12.For safety, complete pump
should be air checked under
water for leaks.
Install air valve in plug
opening of motor housing and
charge housing with about 10
psi of air. Be sure air is dry. Do
not use air line where water
may be trapped in the line.
Submerge complete unit under
water and check for leaks. If
seals were okay, refill seal
chamber with oil. Lay pump
on side for this oil filling with
oil fill hole upright. Do not
completely fill; leave oil about
1" below plug hole. Use only
Hydromatic submersible oil or
high grade transformer oil in
this chamber. Replace plug;
use Permatex on threads.
13.Refill motor chamber with
oil through connection box
opening. Use high grade,
non-synthetic transformer
oil or Hydromatic special
submersible oil. Fill housing
until oil covers top of
windings. Leave air space in
top for expansion.
NOTE: Oil must cover top
of stator.
Replacing Seals and Bearings:
1. Drain all oil from motor
chamber and seal chamber
as described.
2. Remove motor housing as
described in replacing stator.
3. Remove bolts that hold bearing
housing to volute. Lift bearing
housing and rotating unit off
and set assembly on its side.
Remove socket head screw and
washer at the impeller end of
the shaft. Holding the shaft
stationary, remove the impeller
from the shaft by tapping the
end of the impeller blades.
4. To remove seal plate take out
socket head screws and using
screws in back-off holes pry
plate loose. This will also force
seal off if not already removed.
5. Remove snap ring. Pull seal
if it is free. If not free, it
can be forced off when shaft
is removed.
5A.The flame ring must be
removed. It is recommended
Hydromatic Kit #51700-900-7
be used to ease its removal.
This kit will include a pusher
to reassemble in replacement
of flame ring.
6. Set seal housing in upright
position and bump end of shaft
on hardwood block. This will
push the bearing from the
housing and will force upper
seal from shaft.
7. Use bearing puller to remove
bearings. Replace with new
bearings. Press only on
inner face of bearing when
replacing. Pressing on outer
face can damage the bearing.
Bearings are standard size
that can be obtained from
any bearing supply house