Ice Bicycle 2012 User manual

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2012 Trike Owners Manual
1.0 Introduction
1.1 Overview
1.2 Adjusting and closing quick-releases
2.0 Adjusting your ICE trike
2.1 Tyre pressure
2.2 Folding and unfolding (not vortex)
2.2a Suspension adjustment
2.2b Front suspension adjustment
2.3 Mesh seat cover
2.3a Seat angle adjustment
2.4 Hardshell seat adjustment
2.5 Tailor fitting your hardshell seat
2.6 Leg length
2.7 Seat brackets
2.8 Brake lever adjustment
3.0 ICE optional accessories
4.0 Riding your ICE trike
4.1 Getting on and off the trike
4.2 Initial test ride
4.3 Stopping in a low gear
4.4 Relax
4.5 Cornering
4.6 Handling
4.7 Brakes
4.8 Hill climbing
4.9 Descending a hill
4.10 Ground clearance
4.11 Muscles
5.0 Maintenance
5.1 Lubrication
5.2 Adjusting derailleurs
5.3 Drum brakes
5.4 Disc brakes
5.5 Rear brake
5.6 Drivetrain
5.7 The frame
5.8 Tyres, tubes, & wheels
5.9 Suspension
5.10 Adjusting the tracking
5.11 Storage
5.12 Frame number
5.13 Recommended minimum tools and spares
5.14 First service
6.0 Safety
7.0 Other important information
7.1 Recumbent/trike forums on the Internet
7.2 Warranty information
7.3 Liability information
7.4 Legal requirements
7.5 Contacting us
Appendix A: Tyre pressures
Appendix B: Tightening torques
Accessories
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1.0 Introduction
Congratulations on being a new ICE trike owner.
You have purchased the finest, most refined
recumbent tricycle available today; we hope it
brings you many years of enjoyment.
This manual has been written to help you set up
and use your trike. Recumbent trikes may be
a little different from the cycles you are familiar
with, so please take a moment to read through
this document. You will find the latest version of
this manual in a download-able PDF format on
our website.
Throughout the manual, we have included
some tips, which have been learned from over
20 years of experience building trikes. They are
well worth taking special note of.
If you have never worked on a bike before,
you should consider purchasing a good book
on bicycle maintenance. The ICE trikes use
as many standard bicycle components as
possible, and their adjustment and maintenance
is no different from an upright bicycle. We can
recommend Lennard Zinn’s “Zinn and the Art of
Mountain Bike Maintenance” as a thorough
and easy-to-read reference.
If you are assembling your trike for the first time,
please refer to the ICE Trikes Assembly Manual.
We hope you enjoy owning and riding your ICE
trike as much as we like making these great
machines.
On the off-chance that you have any issues with
your trike please contact your dealer or ICE HQ.
(see contact details towards the back of this
Manual)
1.1 Overview
ICE Sprint RS used in this example.

5
iTIP:
Experiment but always go for a
reasonable (a mile or two) test ride
to decide if an adjustment is right for
you.
1.2 Adjusting and closing quick-releases
Quick-releases are used in a number of places
on your trike; it is important that they are
tightened correctly. A quick-release that isn’t
fully and properly closed can result in parts
coming loose or moving while riding. This could
cause a serious accident. A quick-release
system consists of two basic parts: a lever that
provides the clamping force and an adjusting
nut that alters the clamping tension.
With the part you are clamping located
properly, adjust the quick-release by opening
it, holding both ends and turning one clockwise
until, when you close the lever, you feel some
resistance. At this point, try to close the lever
fully. The adjustment is correct when you can
fully close the lever, but with some effort (the
lever should leave its impression in the palm of
your hand).
If you can only close the lever part way, open
it, unscrew the adjusting nut slightly and try
again. If it closes too easily, tighten it up a tiny
bit and try again. Do not try to tighten the quick-
release by winding the lever around; it will not
tighten enough to be safe.
i
2.0 Adjusting your ICE trike
TIP:
When assembling your trike,
please refer to the table in the
appendix for the proper tightening
torques for all fasteners. Do not
overtighten.
Fine-tuning for leg length, seat angle, handle
bar width / angle, brake lever reach, tyre
pressure etc are all well worth taking time to
set to your personal preference.

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2.1 Tyre pressure
Typical tyre pressure for the standard tyres
is about 70psi (4.6 bar). Do not inflate the
tyres more than the maximum pressure
recommended on the tyre sidewalls. You
will need to experiment a bit to find the tyre
pressure that suits you best. Higher pressures
will allow the trike roll more easily, but will
transmit more road shock to the rider. Lower
pressures will feel much more comfortable,
but there can be more rolling resistance.
Also try experimenting with tyres; there are
now large cruiser tyres available which can
provide a comfortable ride and reasonably
low rolling resistance, as well as small high-
pressure racing tyres that offer very-low rolling
resistance and sport’s-car type handling.
2.2 Folding and unfolding (Not Vortex 2012)
Folding and unfolding your trike is very simple. After you have practiced it a few times, you will be
able to do it easily in under a minute.
To fold your trike:
Unscrew the knobs under the front of the seat
and slide the clips off the frame cup in which
the seat sits. They should be left at the end of
the screws as seen here. They are there to
prevent the knob from being unwound too far
and falling out.
Release the QR (Quick Release) on the seat
post.
Remove the seat.
Undo the QR on the hinge.Release the QR on each handlebar and
swing it backwards until each is horizontal.
Re-fasten each QR.
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Swing the rear section of the frame up and to
the left. Be sure to lift the chaintubes as shown
in the photo. This will allow the chain to fold
over properly.
Put the neoprene mat between any parts that
touch after the fold.
Swing the QR and its connecting pin
backwards 90 degrees.
Lift the QR and its pin to release the safety
catch.
Unfolding your trike is the same sequence in
reverse order. To unfold your trike:
• Swing the rear section of the frame up and
to the left and then down to the unfolded
position.
• Put the neoprene mat in a safe place for
next time you fold the trike.
• Lift the QR (Quick Release) latch to retract
the safety pin, and close the hinge. Make
sure the safety pin is properly engaged.
• Swing the QR and its connecting pin
forwards 90 degrees (into the slot on the
front part of the hinge).
• Tighten the QR on the hinge. If the QR is
loose, the adjusting nut may be tightened
slightly.
• Release the QR on each handlebar and
swing them forward until each is vertical.
Re-fasten each QR.
• Put the seat in place and slide the clips on
the bottom seat rail over the frame cup in
which the seat sits.
• Tighten the knobs under the front of the
seat.
• Secure the seat angle adjustment onto the
QR and tighten the QR.
• Make sure everything is secure before
riding your trike.
567

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2.2a Suspension adjustment
The front and rear suspension can both be fine-
tuned to work well for you. The rear suspension
can be adjusted by a combination of selecting
one of three different hardness and five different
fitting positions for the elastomer. The front
suspension can be adjusted by selecting one of
three different hardness elastomers. All trikes
come with medium elastomers fitted to both
front and rear suspensions. Other elastomers
are available for purchase from ICE.
Rear suspension
The adjustment is accomplished by the selection
of elastomers and mounting positions. The
elastomers are available in three hardnesses:
Yellow/Soft, Red/Medium, Green/Hard. There
are five mounting positions; the lowest/closest
to the main pivot (numbered 1 here) will make
the suspension feel softer. The highest/furthest
from the main pivot position (5) will make the
suspension feel harder.To setup the suspension
you will need to select an elastomer and position
it by using the table on page 9.
Elastomer positions
Unclip the rear suspension by pulling the
stainless steel clip on the left hand side over
its pin. The purpose of this clip is to keep the
rear swing arm from dangling when the trike is
picked up; it is only unclipped when changing
the elastomer .

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The elastomers have different compression
characteristics, and you may find other
combinations of elastomer hardness and pin
position which suit the roads you ride on and
your riding style better; it is just a matter of trying
different combinations. The elastomer system
is simple and small enough that you can carry
a couple of elastomers in your bag and change
them when you are out on a ride if you like.
If you ride on rough terrain or ride aggressively,
you may benefit from a harder elastomer. If you
are a leisurely rider, who rides predominantly on
smooth tarmac, you may be able to use a softer
elastomer. If the setup is too soft the trike may
not reach its optimised comfort setting.
If it is too hard comfort will be compromised.
You should generally get a better result with
the hardest elastomer recommended for your
weight, for example if your weight is 90kg use
the green elastomer in position 2 rather than red
in position 4.
If you are a light rider and have your suspension
setup soft it is advisable to adjust it to a firmer
setting; change for a harder elastomer if
necessary before allowing a significantly heavier
rider to sit on your trike, otherwise permanent
damage to the elastomer may occur.
With rear or full suspension, tyres can be run at
higher pressure while maintaining good comfort.
Contrary to popular belief, elastomers do not
significantly change stiffness with lower or higher
temperatures.
The elastomer is removed by pulling and
twisting it off the shock pin. With the back end
hinged open, screw the shock pin into the
required hole in the shock plate. Firmly push the
elastomer back onto the pin and close the swing
arm back onto the stainless steel clip.
The position you have selected using the
table above will give you a good starting point.
Your trike should perform properly like this;
however, it is worthwhile spending a little time
experimenting with settings to find one that suits
you best.

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2.2b Front suspension adjustment
Note: This operation is shown here with the wheel removed but it is possible to do it with the wheel in place. The elastomers are available in soft,
medium and hard. All of them are coloured yellow, and can be identified by the letters: S, M, & H printed on the end.
To remove the suspension elastomer, first
loosen the stop screw.
Compress the suspension unit and remove the
rubber bumper.
Slide the rubber gaiter off at the bottom.
Push the bottom of the elastomer out of the
locating hole.
Slide the bottom of the elastomer around to the
front of the king post.
It should now be easy to remove the elastomer
fully.
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To replace the elastomer, first grease the
elastomer all over then slide it into the kingpost.
Push the bottom of the elastomer around to the
side and into the locating hole.
Apply soapy water to the gaiter groove to aid
fitting.
Slide on the rubber gaiter at the bottom,
checking to make sure that it is properly seated.
Compress the suspension unit and insert the
rubber bumper.
Tighten the stop screw.
1211
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2.3 Mesh seat cover
When new, both the seat cover and the straps
stretch a little, and in the first few weeks of
use you may need to re-tension the seat by
tightening up the straps. In time it will settle
down. For maximum comfort you may need to
tighten the cover more in some places than in
others. In general, the base of the seat should
be tight, and the back looser.
2.3a seat angle
adjustment
The seat has 4 positions of adjustment, and
adjustment is simple and quick.
• Loosen the seat angle adjustment quick-
release lever.
• If you want to make the seat more reclined
set it to the slots closest to the seat cup. If
you want to make the seat less reclined,
then set it to the slots furthest from the seat
cup.
• Re-tighten the seat angle adjustment
quick-release.
2.4 Hardshell seat
adjustment
In order to correctly mount your hardshell seat
onto the trike frame you will need to do the
following:
There are three positions where the top mount
brackets can be fitted. Bolt the brackets onto the
seat shell using the appropriate set of pre drilled
holes for the model of trike that you have.
Assemble seat then check / adjust the position
that the rear section of the frame is inserted into
the main frame.
Bolt the notched plates to the brackets if
required. The plates are used to give a range
of easy to adjust seat angles. On the Vortex the
brackets can be used on their own without the
notched plates if you require maximum recline.

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Clamp bolts
Vortex
Sprint
Bolt the brackets to the seat
shell as shown.
M5 x16mm bolt
Alloy washer
Seat shell
Adventure (Large hard-shell
is interchangeable with the
mesh seat if this bracket
position is used)
Assemble the seat as shown below and attach the
seat to the frame at the front mount. Check that the
bracket is aligned with the holes in the backend as
shown right. If it does not line up correctly you will
need to loosen the backend clamp bolts and slide
the backend in or out until it is correct.
Line up the
holes here
Line up the
holes here
Line up the
holes here
Front. Rear
BracketFront mount
Clamp bolts

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VortexSprintAdventure
Bolt the notched plates to the brackets. The plates are used to give a range of easy to adjust seat angles. On the Vortex the brackets can be used on
their own without the notched plates if you require maximum recline.
Use QR or
bolt in forward
position
Front. Rear
Use QR or
bolt in rear
position
Use QR or
bolt in rear
position
On the Vortex the brackets can be
used without the notched plates
like this if you require maximum
recline.
Brackets only without the notched plates
should be positioned closer together so
that the space between fits the width of
the mount point on the frame.
Note: the brackets have
slotted bolt holes so that
they can be positioned
with or without the extra
plates.
The bracket should be slid
to the correct position and
the bolts all tightened.
When using the notched plates the brackets
should be positioned further apart so that
the plates fit the mount point on the frame.
Use QR or
bolt in forward
position
M6 x16mm
bolt

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2.5 Tailor tting your
hardshell seat
A lot of time went into the design of the ICE Air-
Pro seat and seat cover to make it suitable for a
wide range of people but obviously everyone is
a slightly different shape.
First ride your trike for a while with the standard
pads. There is a good chance you will find it
completely comfortable in which case you will
not need to use the pads at all.
If, however you are finding that the shape does
not suit you so well then the new seat pad
system has been designed to tailor the fit of your
ICE Air-Pro seat specifically for you, making this
the most customizable hard shell seat currently
on the market.
The kit comprised of 3 symmetrical pairs of foam
pads. These pads are designed to be fitted on
top of the ICE Air-Pro seat cover and can be
fitted pretty much anywhere you would like.
If you look on the back of each pad you will see
it has a raised strip down the centre with double-
sided adhesive either side.
The raised strip on the back of each pad is there
to hold it in place whilst you are experimenting
with where to position the pads. It can be
pressed directly into any of the slots in the
seat cover and will stay put whilst you try it out
properly.
Don’t be too quick to get the pads stuck on
permanently, experimentation is the key here so
go out and give your trike a ride with the pads in
various positions to find what suits you best.
Sit on your trike, go for a ride on it and get used
to the feel of the seat shape.
• Try putting pads where you can feel gaps
or spaces between your back and the seat.
• Press the pads firmly down along the
middle to make the raised strip on the pad
engage properly with the grooves in the
seat cover.
• If you can feel a pressure point where your
back is pressing on a localised spot, do not
add a pad in that place, but pad around the
spot leaving a space in that area.
• Once you are fairly happy with the positions
they’re in, go for a few more rides.
• Be careful not to lose them if they should
get hooked up on your clothes.
• Now peel off the backing tape and stick the
pads on.
CAUTION:
When experimenting with
positioning your pads, do not remove
the tape. Once these pads are stuck
they are PERMANENT!.
!

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2.7 Seat brackets
If you cannot adjust the boom to fit you (either
it needs to be further in than the minimum
insertion mark or your heels are coming very
close to the cross axle of the frame), then ICE
offers accessory seat mounting brackets for
your trike.
The FF and FB (not FB on Vortex 2012, FF
can’t be fitted to Adventures) brackets are used
to move the position of the seat forward or back
when installed between the trike’s seat mount
and the seat. Contact ICE for more information
or download the Seat Bracket Instructions from
our website.
2.8 Brake lever adjustment
The position of the brake lever relative to the
handlebars (the ‘reach’) can be adjusted. It
can be useful to move the lever closer to the
handlebar for riders with smaller hands.
For disc brakes levers, there is a reach
adjustment screw on the underside of the
lever body, between the cable entry and the
handlebar clamp. Use a 2 mm hex key to adjust
the screw. The red knob, located on the outside
of the lever(only on Sprint X types and Vortex’s),
controls the leverage ratio of the brake lever.
The correct position for Avid BB7 brakes is with
the knob turned fully counter-clockwise, so that
the maximum amount of cable is pulled.
For Tektro hydraulic brakes, there is a red
adjustment knob on the outside of the lever near
the pivot. Adjust the position of the lever using
the adjuster screw to the desired lever reach.
For drum brakes, the lever has a reach
adjustment screw on the underside of the
lever body, between the cable entry and the
handlebar clamp. Use a 2 mm hex key to adjust
the screw. The other knob, located on the inside
of the lever, controls the leverage ratio of the
brake lever. Changing this setting changes the
amount of cable the lever pulls, and affects the
feel of the brakes. The usual position is with the
knob turned fully clockwise, so that the minimum
amount of cable is pulled (but with the maximum
power).
iTIP:
It is easier to move the boom
if you get a helper to sit on the trike
with both front brakes on.
2.6 Leg length
A small adjustment can be quite noticeable, just
like adjusting the saddle on a conventional bike.
• Change gear to the smallest front and rear
chainring.
• Undo the two clamp bolts under the front
boom. They must be loose.
• Slide the front boom in or out by twisting
and pulling or pushing
• Check the boom is vertical, by eye. It’s not
necessary to measure anything, if it looks
upright, then it will be fine.
• Check that boom is not extended past the
MIN INSERT mark on the boom.
• Tighten the two front boom clamp bolts (or
quick releases) torque setting can be found
in Appendix B.
• If you have moved the boom by more than
approximately 10mm you will need to check
that you have the correct chain length (see
“Fitting the chain” section 2)

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3.0 ICE optional
accessories
Instructions for our accessories are now packed
with the accessory itself.
These include:
• Front mudguards
• Neck rest
• Full wrap rear mudguard
• Chainring guard
• Easy adjust chain management system
• Quick release kit
• Rear disc brake
If you require an additional copy of these
instructions, they may be downloaded from our
website at www.icetrikes.co under Support then
Manuals.
Pedals
We recommend the use of ‘clipless’ pedals.
There is more information in section 6 of this
manual. They are a safe way of attaching your
feet to the pedals, Remember, because you are
now riding a tricycle, there is no need to put your
feet down until you want to get off the trike.
4.0 Riding your ICE
trike
CAUTION:
If your feet fall from the
pedals when you are riding then they
could be dragged under the crossaxle
of the trike. Therefore the trike should
only be ridden with your feet securely
attached to the pedals; either with
special shoes and pedals which you
clip into, or toe clips and straps.
!4.1 Getting on and off
your trike
Mesh seats
Getting on
Begin by standing in front of the cross axle with
one foot on either side of the front boom.
Now bend down and reach back to hold the side
of the seat to help lower yourself as you sit.
Try not to push or pull on the handle bars as you
get on and off.
Getting Off
This is much like getting on, but in reverse order.
Sit forward on the seat and put your feet firmly
on the ground. Reach behind you and hold the
side of the seat while you push yourself up into a
squatting position before standing up.
Trailers
If you plan to attach a trailer to your trike we
strongly recommend using a two wheeled trailer.
One wheeled trailers have no lateral stability
unlike the trike itself, so when cornering are able
to transmit large twisting loads into the trike,
possibly enough to cause serious damage to it.
Two wheeled trailers are naturally stable and so
do not cause this problem.

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2
Hardshell seat
CAUTION:
It is possible to damage
the Hardshell seat if these
instructions are not followed.
Not all parts of it are capable of
handling the weight of a full grown
person trying to get out of a trike.
Seats damaged in this way are not
covered under warranty.
!
Getting On
When attempting to sit in the Vortex, first place
one foot either side of the boom facing towards
the pedals.
Then bring the cruciform forwards so the cross
axle touches the back of your calves.
Then bend your legs placing one hand on the
seat and the other on the wheel.
When doing this, ensure you place your hand
on the front half of the wheel and apply pressure
going away from you.
Due to the Vortex’s low profile it is slightly more
difficult to get into than the other models.
Therefore please take extra care when getting in
and follow the method shown.
Avoid:
• Applying any pressure to the handle bars.
• Applying pressure to a single side of the
seat.
• Falling backwards onto the seat.
• Sitting towards the front edge of the seat.
• Sitting with items in the back pockets of
clothing.

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123
In the meantime, place the back of your hand
half way up the hardshell seat.
Slowly lower yourself into the seat and only
when sat, remove the pressure from the front
wheel and the seat.
You are then ready to ride.....
Getting Off
When getting off sit upright and place both
hands with the same positioning and pressure
as used for getting in.
Using the hand placed on the seat, push
your-self off the seat and onto your feet.
Only remove the pressure from the front wheel
once you are confidently back on two feet. Once
done you are good to go...

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4.3 Stopping in a low
gear
As with an ordinary bicycle it is best to get into
the habit of finishing your journey in an easy
gear so that you can pull away easily when you
start again.
4.4 Relax
Whilst riding sit back and relax.
DO NOT PULL ON THE HANDLEBARS;
just hold them lightly. The trike will tend to steer
itself in a straight line depending on the road
surface and camber.
iTIP:
The steering of the
trike runs on ball bearings so
it is very smooth and requires
minimal effort to steer. The gear
cables run forward and backwards
and the spring effect in these cables
tend to make the trike slowly turn
to the left if you let go of
the handlebars completely.
This is normal and we don’t
recommend riding without holding at
least one of the handle bars or you will
not have proper control of the trike.
4.2 Initial test ride
Start on a flat piece of road or drive preferably
away from traffic. The front brakes are
independent so the left brake operates the left
front wheel and the right brake operates the right
wheel. Sit on the trike , clip in and make sure
you know where the brakes are and that they
stop you moving. Before you have ridden more
than a few yards, check the front brakes.
MAKE SURE YOU CAN STOP!
You should do this before each ride, as well as
checking your brakes for damage and wear.
Steering is very easy and natural and you
will soon become unaware of the movements
required.
Gear changing
As with any derailleur system you can only
change gear when you are pedalling and
moving forward. It is easier to change if you
are not putting a lot of force on the pedals,
particularly when changing from a high to a low
gear. The rear derailleur is operated by the right
shifter, and the front using the left shifter.
Do not change gear when the trike is rolling
backwards, as the chain will jam in the rear
derailleur and likely damage it. When you are
riding, you can make minor adjustments to the
indexing of the gears using the adjusters located
where the cables exit the shifters.
iTIP:
Also try to anticipate hills and
change to a lower (easier) gear
before you get onto the steep part of
the hill hence avoiding changing
gear under pressure.