8
1Set the rear Jibsheet Guide Eye and Silicone Rings A & B to the positions shown above. The positions of the other silicone rings and
sail clew hook are adjustable to facilitate correct sail trim.
2Cut a 350mm length of Dyneema to form the Jib Boom hook-down. Tie a loop of approximately 20mm length in one end and secure
the knot with a drop of CA glue. Make a mark at 50mm from the end of the loop.
3Tie the Jib Boom hook-down cord around the Jib Boom between Silicone Rings A & B so that the mark you made at 50mm is level with
the underside of the Boom. Knot the loose end around the Boom several times to secure it. Trim off the loose end. Once the boat is fully
rigged and you are happy with the position of the hook-down, it can be permanently secured with CA glue.
Note: It can be hard at the waterside to thread the Jib Boom hook-down through the deck eye and clip on to the hook (Deck Eye 4). To make
it easier you can tie a short length (approximately 80mm) of Dyneema to the end of the loop. This gives you something to pull on to help get
the loop over the hook. Once connected, this cord will lie on the deck and not interfere with the Jib Sheeting.
JIB BOOM SETUP
3
2
50mm
20mm
50mm
RIGGING THE JIB
4(Not shown) Remove the Counterweight from the front end of the Jib Boom, make sure it is screwed on tightly to it’s metal shaft and
secure the thread with a drop of thin CA glue.
Note: At this stage make sure the Jib Luff is free to slide on it’s wire Forestay. If it is sticking at any point gently free it off taking care not to
crease the sail.
5Clip the Jib Tack Hook into the front eyelet in the sail, then push the Counterweight shaft through the loop in the bottom of the wire
Forestay and through the loop in the Jib Tack Hook, then back into the Front End Fitting leaving approximately 5mm of shaft showing.
6Clip the Jib Clew Hook into the eyelet in the rear corner of the sail, then, using a pair of thin nosed pliers close up slightly the open end
of the hook to prevent the eye slipping off the hook when sailing. Note: This can be opened out again with a flat bladed screwdriver if
you need to remove the sail.
7Thread the Jib Boom hook-down through Deck Eye 2 and clip over the hook at Deck Eye 4. Note: See note at end of paragraph 3
(above) for a handy tip.
8Cut a 160mm length of Dyneema and tie one end to the eyelet in the top of the sail, thread through the first two holes of a Bowsie then
through the eye in the Forestay Fitting and back through the Bowsie. Lightly tension the sail, adjust the position of the Bowsie as shown
in photo 8, tie off the end at the Bowsie and trim off the loose end.
9Cut a 140mm length of Dyneema to form the top of the Forestay. Tie one end to the wire loop in the top of the Forestay wire, thread up
through the first two holes of a Bowsie, through the eye in the Forestay Fitting and back through the final eye of the Bowsie. Pull some
tension into the Forestay, then with the Bowsie positioned as shown in photo 9, tie off the final knot in the Bowsie. When secured, pull
down to apply more tension into the Forestay until the Luff of the Jib starts to wrinkle, then adjust the other Bowsie with enough tension
to remove the wrinkles in the sail’s Luff.
10 Now set the mast rake (angle) by adjusting the Forestay Bowsie to obtain the dimensions shown in the rig diagram on the next page.
To achieve these measurements you will have put a lot of tension into the Forestay and Backstay. This tension is needed to keep the rig
stable which will give you consistent handling characteristics in different wind conditions.
11 Cut a 700mm length of Dyneema to form the Topping Lift. Start by tying one end to the Forestay Fitting behind the other two lines
(See photo 11). Tie one of the supplied 6mm metal rings to the other end at a distance of approximately 540mm from the hole in the
Forestay Fitting. Trim off the loose end.
63mm
160mm
Counterweight Silicone Rings A & B
Jib Tack Hook
Jibsheet Guide Eye
Jib Clew Hook
Jibsheet Guide Eye
Rubber O Ring Silicone Ring
