Logitech Harmony 1100 User manual

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Harmony
Remote Repair
harmonyremoterepair.com
Harmony 1100
LCD Installation
1. Open the battery cover and remove the three visible screws.
2. Open the USB port cap cover. If you look carefully, you will see a very small screw. Remove this as well.
3. Push the USB rubber cover down so it is not helping to hold the case together. Holding the remote so that
the charging cradle contacts are facing up, insert a pry-tool right into the clamshell seam that is above
the area where the two screws were removed from the battery compartment. This is where the casing is
already loose since the screws were removed and you can easily insert the tool in this area. Slide the pry
tool toward the charging contacts, so that the clamshell locking tabs pop in that area. There should be two
locking tabs that release. Then, ip the casing over so that the top of the remote is facing up and then,
starting at the battery compartment, insert the tool in the corner and slide across the top side of the remote.
This will release the top locking tabs. Finally, the most stubborn tab is down the side where the USB port
is. To release this tab, insert the tool at the top of the Learning Port Lens (the smaller lens on the charging
terminal side) and slowly, but rmly, round the corner and come down a couple of inches. This should pop
the tab on this side. Try to avoid using a screwdriver, knife or other tool, which will leave pry-marks and mar
the casing seam.
4. As the case separates, the 2 plastic emitter lenses may pop off as well. This is not a problem and, in fact,
may make the next steps a little easier.
5. Fold the case open away from the 2 charging contacts - the faceplate and the screen will fold away from
the logic board and back case and you can see everything laying open held together by the wide ribbon
cable.
6. If you have a newer version of the 1100, you will see a plastic black plate that covers the entire back of the
LCD module. This is used to ll the space around the LCD, since it is slightly smaller than the rst genera-
tion module and Logitech did not want to retool the entire front cover. To remove the LCD module from the
front cover, you can simply press it gently from the front. You may need to push or gently pry some of the
plastic mounting clips if the module is in very snugly. This is especially true if you have a rst generation
LCD (which does not have the black plastic plate). Gently twisting the front cover can also help pop the
module free.
7. Now the screen lays at away from the logic board, and your faceplate can be set aside so you don’t dam-
age it. There are three screws holding the logic board in place, one right by the hard number pad, the other
two on the opposite side just below the USB port. You can remove these and set them aside.
8. The hard button PCB should be removed to avoid damage when the logic board is removed from the back
cover. Open the ribbon cable clamp by carefully and gently sliding upward. Do not try to remove the
clamp. It should just move slightly up until it hits the stops, Then, very carefully, lift the hard button PCB
and slide the ribbon cable out of the receptacle. This is critically important – do not bend the ribbon
cable in any way! The solder joints that connect the cable to the board are very delicate and can eas-
ily develop a micro-tear. If this happens, some or all of your hard buttons will no longer work. If the PCB
will not easily lift from the casing, then you have a version that is being held onto the casing with a strip of
double-stick tape. If you encounter this, then slide a very thin, at tool, playing card, etc, so that the PCB
can be lifted without too much strain. Be careful!

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Now you will be removing the logic board so you can get to the underside where the LCD is clipped in. This
can be a little tricky because you need to be very careful not to bend or damage the battery contacts - very
imsy and easy to bend up.
9. You’ve already removed the three screws that were holding the board down to the rear casing and now
you need to use a pry tool to lift up on the logic board at the opposite side of the USB near the battery
compartment. Once again, be very careful with that “L” shaped board end where the battery contacts are
and be aware of the two charging contact wires that are connected to the board and to the back case. As
you begin to lift the board out, do not try to pull it completely from the back case! You will rip the wires from
the solder pads. Pry up very lightly to pop the board off the screw post near the battery compartment. Now
the board is held on by the USB port sticking through the side and where the board sits over the two screw
posts that are sticking up through the board also, Pry up slightly on the battery compartment side and then
take another tool and pry up just enough to pop the board loose from the screw posts. The board may still
be wedged in where the USB port sticks out of the case. Wiggle it out by pulling gently and lifting. But re-
member! Watch out for the two soldered charging contact wires! Of course, while all this is going on, you’re
still struggling with a 3.5” LCD opping around and still attached!
10. Finally, with the logic board removed from the back casing as much as it can be, fold it open holding the
screen against the logic board using the two soldered wires as a hinge, now it folds open like an accordion.
Start by putting the back case as far up as you can on the table and fold the logic board toward you while
folding the screen out face down.
11. Now you’ve exposed the big ribbon cable clamp. Opening it can be a little tricky. Use a thin edge tool - a
knife or pry tool edge to work both sides toward the middle. It is very delicate and easy to break so take
your time. Do not try to pull the clamp off entirely! Only lift is slightly until it stops! Remove the old LCD
and pay attention to to which side (top of bottom) of the ribbon cable has the metal contacts. The new LCD
should be orientated in the same way - with the contacts positioned properly. Don’t install the LCD upside
down! Insert the cable into the connector. Then you can gently push the connector back in.
12. Fold the cable and the LCD against the case and repeat all the steps backwards.
13. Fitting the board back over the 2 screw pins and the USB port into the hole can be tricky, especially while
watching out for the battery contacts. You may need to wiggle, push, etc. Make sure that everything is
seated rmly in place and the board is at.
14. Put the “hard key” logic board back in place.
15. The case pops back together very easily, but make sure the two plastic emitter lenses are back in place
(they fall out easily) and also make sure you’ve popped the rubber USB port cover tab in place also.
16. Replace the 4 screws and you’re good to go!
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H1100 Rev. 10/16