Louet Megado 70 User manual

Megado
70 /
11
0 / 1
3
0
Instructions
Introduction..........................................................................................................................................1
Assembling the loom............................................................................................................................2
Assembling the mechanical dobby system.........................................................................................21
Installing the electronic interface ........................................................................................................29
Tips and tricks for using the loom.......................................................................................................33
Maintenance ......................................................................................................................................37
Trouble shooting ................................................................................................................................37
Contact ..............................................................................................................................................41
Version: I-ME-EN-V3

1
Introduction
Megado’s countermarch action produces a perfect shed automatically
The Megado is not literally a countermarch loom although it has all the advantages of one. In
countermarch looms, the shafts move both up and down so that tension on both raised and
lowered warp threads is equal. With the Megado, as the treadle is depressed, the rising
shafts move, and as they rise, the back part of the loom also rises. This action automatically
creates a shed of raised and lowered threads that is progressively greater toward the back
and therefore completely even at the front in addition to equalizing tension on all warp
threads.
The first drawing below shows the Megado at rest. The second shows the progressive shed
achieved during treadling
Megado treadling is very light
When a shed is formed on most looms, the activated warp threads move through a greater
distance than they do at rest. This means that the activated warp threads are under greater
tension, and they become stretched. If the warp is of an inelastic material and held at high
tension, the force required to treadle can be considerable. With the Louët Spring and Delta
countermarch looms, this problem is overcome to some degree: The breast beam moves
during treadling to decrease the distance between front and back beams, therefore
decreasing the distance the through which the activated threads move. With the Megado, the
problem is completely overcome: Not only does the back part of the loom move up, but the
back beam also moves a little towards the breast beam during treadling. This causes
activated warp tension to decrease from even its resting tension—actually helping you make
the shed!
Accessories
Besides the choice of a mechanical or an electronic dobby head, you can obtain a full range
of accessories:
•
Adjustable bench (59-72 cm)
•Tilting set for bench
•Second warp beam with back beam
•Sectional warp beam
•
Flying Dutchman shuttle
•Fly shuttle device
•Beater system support attachment
•Treadle height adjusting blocks
•Program bars in sets of 10

2
Assembling the loom
Ask a friend
During the assembly of the loom, there will be some moments that you will need assistance.
The middle section or the assembled loom is difficult to move by oneself. For these tasks, we
advise you to ask a friend or a family member for help.
Barrel nuts
For the assembly of the looms, we use many barrel nuts and bolts to connect two parts. The
cylinder shaped nuts have a slot on one of the flat sides. Always insert the barrel nut into the
wooden part, so that the slot in the barrel nut is visible. The slot shows the direction of the
threaded hole in the nut. With a flat screwdriver you can turn the barrel nut so that it is
positioned properly to catch the bolt. If you have a problem inserting the bolt into the barrel
nut, try turning the barrel nut 180 degrees. This usually helps.
Carriage bolts
In other locations, we use carriage bolt to assemble wooden parts. These bolts have a
square enlargement (neck) under the bolt head. When you tighten the nut on the bolt, this
square neck locks into the wood to prevent the bolt from turning. In some instances, you will
notice, that the bolt is just a little too short for assembly with the washer and nut. We advice
you to put the nut on the bolt without the washer, then tighten the nut sufficiently, so that the
square neck pulls into the wood. At this stage, unscrew the nut, install the washer and then
replace and secure the nut again, tightly. Alternatively, you can carefully tap against the bolt
head with a hammer, until the bolt head is secured into the wood.
Washers and spacers
For the proper operation of the loom, it is very important that you follow the proper assembly
sequence of the bolts, washers and spacers. Please carefully follow the instructions.
To help you, we have assembled all the washers and spacers in the hardware bags in the
right sequence.
Wood screws
Where wood screws are used, we have pre-drilled holes in the wood. The screws will cut
their own thread into these holes. Please note however, that the screws are very sharp, and
will cut into the full wood outside the pre-drilled holes, if you miss the pre-drilled hole during
assembly. However if this happens, you will notice that after a couple of turns, it becomes
very hard to turn the screw. There is even a chance that the screw will twist off. Moreover,
the parts will be assembled in the wrong location.
If you have to assemble and disassemble the loom several times, make sure that the wood
screw turns in the same thread again which was cut the first time. If you do not follow this
instruction, the hole in the wood will become too large for the screw. To find this screw
thread, turn the screw anti clock wise, until you "feel" the screw "drop" into the threaded part
in the wood.
Markings
Many parts of the loom have been marked with letters of the alphabet at places where they
have to be connected to another part, marked with the same letter.
The first time a part is named in this instruction; these letters are mentioned, to indicate
which part is meant.

3
Tools
All parts used for the loom are metric. To facilitate the assembly, we have included two
wrenches (10 mm for m6, 13 mm for m8) and a pz2 cross head screwdriver (not a Phillips
head!). Together with hardware bags 1, 2 and 5, these tools are located in box B.
Bolts, washers, bushings and nuts, packed in the hardware bags are assembled in the
correct sequence. Hardware bags 1, 2 and 5 are packed in box B. In addition to the middle
part in box A, the first parts needed for the assembly are packed in box B.
1. Assembling the side rails to the middle section
Open hardware Bag 1:
•8 bolts m8 x 130 mm, with large
washer and barrel nut
•2 bolts m8 x 70 mm, with large
washer and barrel nut
•4 bolts m6 x 70 mm, with washer
and barrel nut
•4 carriage bolts m8 x 65 mm, each
with large washer, two small
washers, and a cap nut
•4 carriage bolts m8 x 50 mm, each
with a large ring and cap nut
•4 rubber buffers
Use two sawhorses, a table, or the
empty Box A to support the middle
section of the loom raised at about 24"-
32" above the floor.
Find the two upper side rails marked J
N D and I M C and also the two hinged
arms, which you can recognize by the
six metal hooks.
The rails have to be attached to the
middle section. These rails have holes
with ball bearings for the attachment of
the hinged arms to connect the back
part of the loom.
If you are assembling a 32-shaft Megado, you will have to first assemble one of the hinged
arms to the side rail JND; it is impossible to do that after this upper side rail is assembled to
the middle part!

4
Take one of the hinged arms and assemble it to side rail JND, using an m8 x 65 mm carriage
bolt, washers, and cap nut. Make sure that the screw hooks of the arm are located as shown
on the picture. One big washer and two small washers have to be placed onto the bolt
between the arm and the ball bearing; the two small washers facing the bearing. No washer
is required between the cap nut and the other ball bearing.
Assemble side rails JND and IMC each
with two m8 x 50 mm carriage bolts,
large washer, and cap nut to the middle
section. The front connections of the
side rails to the middle section are
marked M-M and N-N.
Assemble the other hinged arm to side
rail IMC in the manner described
above.
Put the two remaining m8 x 65 mm
carriage bolts into the remaining hole of
each hinged arm and add the washers
and cap nuts. Place the hinged arms
with the carriage bolts on the side rails,
as shown in the picture.
2. Assembling the side parts of the frame
Take the middle posts AC and BD and
slide these onto the wooden pegs of
the side rails (connections C-C and D-
D). For both connections use an m8 x
130 mm bolt with large washer and
barrel nut.
Take the lower side rails AE and BF
and the front posts LJHF and KIGE and
attach the rubber buffers by screwing
them into the threaded holes.

5
Now assemble both bottom side rails
below the already assembled vertical
posts by sliding them over the wooden
pegs. Tighten these joints (A-A and B-
B) with an m8 x 130 mm bolt, large
washer, and barrel nut.
Slide the front posts over the wooden
pegs of the upper and lower side rails
and make the connections I-I, J-J, F-F,
and E-E with the four remaining m8 x
130 mm bolts, large washers, and
barrel nuts.
3. Mounting the foot rail and cross member
Take the foot rail GH out of Box D and
slide it with its wooden pegs into the
holes from one of the front posts.
Watch out for the proper position of the
foot rail; the holes for the barrel nuts
have to face the loom. Let the wooden
pegs of the other side of the foot rail
rest on the lower side rail.

6
Apply pressure to the side where the
foot rail pegs rest so that the side
moves out, allowing the pegs of the
foot rail to fall into place.
Connect and tighten at both sides with
m8 x 70 mm bolts, large washer, and
barrel nut.
Since the loom can now stand on its
own, remove the trestles or whatever
you have used to support the middle
section.
Next, assemble the wide cross member
between the two vertical posts at the
rear of the middle section:
Take four m6 x 70 mm bolts from the
hardware bag and place them complete
with their washers into the four holes of
the middle posts
Take the wide cross member out of
Box C. You can recognize this cross
member by the four barrel nut holes at
either end.
Slide the cross member on one side
onto the m6 x 70 mm bolts that
protrude on the inside of the middle
post.
Then place the cross member between
both middle posts and push the bolts
into the holes to find the right position.
Insert the barrel nuts and tighten the
bolts.

7
4. Assembling the treadle arms
Open hardware bag 2:
•4 carriage bolts 8 x 75 mm with
large washer, small washer,
spacer, and cap nut.
•2 bolts m8 x 70 mm with large
washer and barrel nut.
•1 threaded hook m6 x 60 mm with
barrel nut.
•4 screws 5 x 40 mm with counter
sunk cross head.
•8 screws 5 x 50 mm
Take the treadle arms out of Box B and
assemble each with an m8 x 75 mm
carriage bolt onto a middle post of the
loom, using the holes where ball
bearings are present. Make sure that
you assemble the section between the
treadle arm and ball bearing in the
correct sequence: Consecutively slide
the large washer, the small washer,
and the bushing onto the bolt after you
put it through the hole in the treadle
arm.
Tighten the bolt with a cap nut. You
don’t need a washer on the outside
between the ball bearing and the cap
nut.
Take the back post P out of Box B. You
can recognize the back posts by their
markings O and P and by the two holes
with ball bearings.
Connect back post P to the right treadle
arm with the m8 x 75 mm carriage bolt.
Make the connection in the same
manner as the treadle arm to the
middle post.

8
Turn the hinged arm, which rests on
the side rail, backwards and connect it
into the other ball bearing hole in the
back post. Remember to put the three
washers onto the bolt, in between the
hinged arm and the ball bearing.
5. Assembling the warp beam and the back beam
Take the brake disk out of Box B and
the warp beam out of Box D. Both are
marked Q.
Slide the brake disk onto the longer
shaft of the warp beam with the side
marked Q facing the beam.
Use the four 5 x 40 mm screws to
attach the disk to the warp beam.
Slide the left back post marked O onto
the shorter shaft of the warp beam and
install this onto the loom. The larger
shaft, protruding from the brake disk,
has to be inserted into the hole in the
right back post.
Let the other back post, the left one,
rest on the lower side rail.

9
Connect the left back post with the
treadle arm in the same manner as you
did on the other side.
Take the back beam, marked P O out
of box D. First insert the wooden pegs
of the back beam on side P into the
holes in the right back post. Make sure
that the holes for the barrel nuts point
diagonally downwards.
Put the wooden pegs on side O of the
back beam into the holes of the left
back post (Connection O-O). You will
have to carefully bend the back post
towards the outside, making sure that
the warp beam does not drop out of the
loom. (You might need some help with
this.)
Tighten the back beam with two m8 x
70 mm bolts, large washer, and barrel
nut.
Connect the hinged arm to the left back
post in the same manner as you did on
the right side.

10
6. Assembling the treadle
Now you will attach the treadle rail and the connection rail (from Box C) to the treadle arms.
There are four holes in each treadle arm for the attaching of the connection rail. You will only
use two on each side: The two holes farthest from the front of the loom are used for the 16-
shaft loom. The holes that are closer to the front are used for the 32-shaft loom.
To assemble the treadle rail, you will find that each treadle arm has three sets of holes above
each other. The holes you use depends on the height of the treadle rail that is comfortable for
you. The middle set of holes is usually appropriate for weavers who are between 5'-7" and 5'-
11" (1.70 –1.80 m). The comfortable height of the treadle rail also depends on the height of
the bench being used. We can supply additional blocks and rails to make the loom
comfortable for very short weavers.
Take the connection rail out of Box C (the
connection rail has a hole for the barrel nut in
the middle that is used for connecting the
cable) and take four of the remaining screws.
Hold the rail between the treadle arms. Be sure that the holes for the connection to the cable
are at the back side and on top. Place a screw into the top hole of the treadle arm and while
doing so, adjust the connection rail to find the pilot hole. The top of the connection rail should
be 1/6" (4mm) under the top of the treadle arm.
Then turn the screw so far by hand that only the tip enters the pilot hole. Repeat this with the
other screw into the lower hole. As long as you keep the rail horizontal, it will remain in place
on the tips of the screws.
Move over to the other side of the loom,
keeping the rail in a horizontal position. Place
two screws into the holes in the other treadle
arm and adjust the connecting rail to find the
pilot holes as before. The rail now hangs on
four screw points.
Now take the screwdriver and turn all four
screws partly in. The heads of the screws have
to stick out a little because some space is
required to install the treadle bar.
Take the four remaining screws and the
treadle bar, which you can recognize by the
two rounded sides, out of Box C. Lay the
treadle bar between the treadle arms on the
floor.
Lift the treadle bar up on one side and hold it
up against the treadle arm. Insert two screws
through the holes of the treadle arm and turn
the screw tips into the pilot holes of the treadle
bar until it remains in position.

11
Carefully lift the treadle bar on the
opposite side and slide it into its place
between the arms. Place the screws
into the holes of the treadle arm and
find the pilot holes by adjusting the
treadle bar.
Now tighten all screws of the treadle
bar with the screwdriver and then
tighten the screws that hold the
connecting rail.
7. The connection of the treadle and the dobby knife and adjusting the knife at the
proper height
Each shaft is connected to a dobby hook by a cord. Dobby hooks are the pieces of wood with
two protruding screw heads. When the dobby hook is not activated, one of its screw heads
locks the shaft in its lowermost position. When a dobby hook is pushed by the dobby head,
the hook unlocks and the other screw head will be caught by the knife as you push down the
treadle for the shed. When the dobby hook is pulled down by the knife, it lifts the shaft
connected to that dobby hook.
The knife is the steel bar on the right side of the loom which will move up and down with the
treadle.
The knife is attached to a rotatable
system of two connected disks.
The steel cable, screwed onto the front
disk, has to be connected to the pedal.
With the threaded hook you will now
connect the cable from the knife to the
treadle and adjust the knife at the
proper height.
Unscrew the threaded hook and barrel
nut and reassemble them into the holes
on top of the connection rail of the
treadle.
Lead the cable one winding around the disk, hook the loop onto the hook, and guide the
cable over the pulley, which is installed above on the bar in the middle section of the loom.
You can adjust the starting position of the knife to a lower or a higher level by screwing the
threaded hook further down or respectively higher up. When you are doing this adjustment,
you have to unhook the cable loop, otherwise the cable will undo the adjustment by twisting
back while weaving.
The starting position of the knife has
to be adjusted to a level so that the
screw head of the farthest back shaft
is just able to move freely under the
knife.

12
8. Installing the cloth beam
Open hardware Bag 3, which is in Box C:
•
10 beam cords (if your Megado is a 70 or 110,
you only need 6 or 8 of them)
•1 ratchet wheel
•4 screws 4 x 30 mm
•1 ratchet
•1 lag screw m6 x 30 mm
•2 screws 4 x 13 mm
•1 buffer and screw 4 x 21 mm
•1 spring
•1 screw eye
•
1 carriage bolt m8 x 75 mm with
large washer, 33 mm bushing,
small washer, and cap nut
•1 threaded hook m6 x 60 mm with
m6 barrel nut
•1 brake cable
•1 carriage bolt m8 x 50 mm with
large washer, 5 mm bushing, small
washer, and cap nut
•1 hook with a Texsolv cord
Screw the ratchet onto the inside of the
right side rail using the lag screw.
Tighten the bolt completely and then
reverse about half a turn so that the
ratchet is able to turn freely.
Screw the two small 4 x 13 mm screws
into the holes close to the ratchet.
These screw heads keep the ratchet in
position and limit its movement.
Screw the bumper with the 4 x 12 mm
screw onto the inside of the front post
on the right side.

13
Take the cloth beam out of Box C. Slide the ratchet wheel over the long shaft and install with
the four 4 x 30 mm screws. Make sure the countersunk holes for the screws are facing out so
that the screw heads fit.
Slide the cloth advance handle over the
shaft against the ratchet wheel and
install the cloth beam into the slots in
the side rails of the loom.
Attach the beam cords to the screw
heads of the cloth beam and the warp
beam.
The Texsolv cords are cut at a joint
between two loops. As a result, the end
loop of a cord is not strong. Therefore
attach the cords, using the second-to-
the-end loop, over the screw heads of
the cloth and warp beam.
9. The brake on the warp beam
Turn the screw eye into the right back
post until only the eye protrudes. Use
the screwdriver as a lever.

14
Insert the m8 x 50 mm carriage bolt
through the back post after you have
lifted up the back part of the loom (to
prevent the hinged arm from interfering
with the installation of the carriage
bolt).
Slide the large washer, bushing, and
small washer onto the bolt and tighten
with the cap nut. Later on the brake
cable will be installed onto this bolt.
Insert the m8 x 75 mm carriage bolt
through the lower hole in the back post
and slide the large washer and bushing
onto it.
Tighten the cap nut and have the
square part of the bolt head cut into the
wood. Take the cap nut off again.
This bolt is the shaft for the brake
pedal.
Take the brake pedal out of Box B.
Hook one end of the spring onto the
eye of the pedal and the other end to
the eye in the back post. Slide the hole
in the brake pedal over the bushing
onto the bolt.
Slide the small washer over the bolt
and tighten with the cap nut.

15
The threaded hook for the brake cable
has to be installed now on the short
end of the brake pedal.
Insert the barrel nut into the hole and
place the thread of the hook into the
groove of the treadle. Now, screw the
hook into the barrel nut until the
threaded end protrudes about 3/4"
(2 cm).
Place the brake cable with the largest
loop around the bolt and wind the cable
around the brake disk twice, in the right
direction (clockwise if you look from the
camera side of the picture). Make sure
that the cable is guided neatly and
does not cross itself.
In this stage, the spring keeps the
pedal end pressed against the shaft
cords underneath the middle section.
While pushing the pedal down in next
step of the assembling, you have to
take care that the pedal end does not
interfere with the shaft cords!
Hook the cable loop onto the threaded hook while you use your other hand to push the pedal
end down. Again, you could use some help to do this. If you are working alone, you can tie
the pedal to the lower side rail so that you can use your two hands to install the cable.
Pull the brake pedal up so that the cable can set itself and check once more to see that the
cable runs properly around the brake disk. Pushing the pedal down takes the tension off the
cable, enabling you to make corrections if necessary.
Adjust the position of the brake pedal: In the rest position, the brake pedal should be
approximately horizontal. This can be adjusted by turning the threaded hook more or less
deeply into the barrel nut. To do this, the cable has to be taken off the hook again. If you turn
the eye bolt further into the barrel nut, the brake pedal comes down. If you turn the threaded
hook further out of the barrel nut, the brake pedal will come up.

16
Hang this hook into the eye of the
brake pedal with the cord around the
neck of the eye. Later on we’ll explain
how this hook can be used to block the
brake pedal in a position such that the
brake is released.
10. Assembling the breast beam
Open hardware bag 4 from
box C
:
•2 small screw eyes
•1 nail
•8 screws 4 x 17 mm
•2 cords, 71/2" (19 cm) long
•2 springs with screw eye and cord
•2 carriage bolts m8 x 75 mm with
large washer, 33 mm bushing, large
washer, and cap nut.
Take the spring arms marked K and L
out of box B.
Insert a carriage bolt through the hole
in one of the spring arms so that the
bolt sticks out on the marked side.
Slide the large washer and bushing
onto the bolt and insert the bolt through
the hole in the top of the post marked K
or L. Slide on the other washer and
tighten with cap nut.
Connect the other spring arm in the
same way onto the other post.

17
Screw three screws into each of the
spring arms. The heads have to
protrude about ¼" (5 mm).
Hook the Texsolv cord onto the middle
screw of each spring arm.
Insert a screw through the second last
hole on the other end of each cord and
screw them into the holes of the
backside of the front posts.
The eyes attached to the springs
should be screwed into the holes on
the inside of the middle posts. Use the
nail to do this. Screw them so far that
only the eyes protrude from the wood.

18
Hook the ends of the spring cords onto
the bottom screw heads of the spring
arms (see page 37: the moving breast
beam).
Place the breast beam (from box C)
onto the pins of the spring arms.
Use the nail, again, to screw the screw
eyes into the holes on the rear of the
back posts. These screw eyes can be
used to tie up the cross sticks.
11. Assembling the beater
Open hardware Bag 5 from Box B:
•2 hinges for the beater uprights
•2 bolts m6 x 75 mm with washer
and barrel nut
•2 carriage bolts m6 x 80 mm with
washer and wing nut.
•4 washers
•2 bushings 33 mm
•2 lag screws 90 mm
•3 thin cardboard strips
Take the remaining parts out of Box B. These are the beater handle and the beater uprights.
The top beater bar and the reed support have to be attached to the uprights.