Louet Delta Assembly instructions

Delta
Instructions for assembly
The parallel countermarch system....................................................................................................1
Assembly tips and information..........................................................................................................3
Assembly of the Delta.......................................................................................................................5
Maintenance...................................................................................................................................28
Version: Delta-EN-V5

0

1
The parallel countermarch system
In a countermarch loom, every shaft is actively
involved in each shed: Each shaft is either
lifted or pulled down by each treadle.
Uneven sheds, for example a satin weave
shed, where four shafts are lifted and one is
pulled down, open cleanly every time. The
warp ends on the fifth shaft do not tend to ride
up as they often do with jack looms.
When the shed is made, the same tension is
applied to the raised ends as to the lowered
ones, resulting in the best shed in relation to
the increase of the warp tension.
The traditional countermarch
Look at the diagram to help you understand
how a countermarch loom works. The points
marked S are the pivoting points for the lams
C and D and the jacks E.
You will see that beneath each shaft, there are
two lams associated with it. One of those lams
is directly connected to the shaft and moves in
the same direction as it does: when this lam is
pulled down, the shaft moves down. When the
other lam is pulled down, the shaft rises.
Parallel countermarch
See next picture; each shaft is attached to a
cord, which goes over all six rollers. The ends
of the cord are joined, so the cord forms a
continuous loop. When treadle A is pressed
down, the lower lam C, attached to the outside
part of the cord, moves downward, pulling the
shaft F up. When treadle B is pressed down,
the upper lam D attached to the inside part of
the cord, goes down, pulling the shaft with it.
Compared to the traditional countermarch, the
parallel countermarch has five nice features:
1. In contrast to the traditional countermarch,
the lams of the parallel countermarch stay
horizontal, while moving the same distance
as the shafts. This means that the action of
all treadles is the same, not depending on
their location in the width of the loom.
2. The parallel countermarch system is more
compactly constructed, because the action
space the lams need is less than pivoting
lams and the rollers at the top take less
space than jacks.
3. Shaft bars and lams cannot slant. Their
ends are fixed to the cord and when the
cord moves, all parts of the cord have to
move the same distance.
4. There is no tie-up to the middle of the lower
shaft bars, so the heddles can be moved
freely over the shafts.
5. There are no cords, connecting the lams to
jacks, running through the middle of the
warp
Because each treadle is tied to one of the
lams of each shaft, twice as many tie-ups per
treadle must be made, on the average,
compared to looms with another system.

2
Before the advent of Texsolv cord, the time
required to tie up a countermarch loom was
daunting. Once the ties were made, there
were still problems as knots slipped or had to
be untied to adjust the cords. Fortunately this
drudgery is a thing of the past. The Texsolv
cords neither stretch nor require knots. The
Texsolv tie-up cords are attached to the lams
and can be simply hooked onto the treadles.
Changing the tie-up is easy and fast.
To improve the countermarch shed, to offer
the best shed a shaft action system can
provide, Louët invented an action system for
another part of the loom that holds the warp:
The moving breast beam, controlling the
warp tension
The moving breast beam allows the shafts to
move more easily in their opposite directions.
Looking at the diagram that shows the loom
from the side, you will see that a shed is giving
the warp a kind of parallelogram shape.
Imagine, the warp is made of inelastic
material, like metal wire, you will understand
that making a shed is only possible if the
distance between breast beam and back
beam becomes smaller. When this distance is
fixed, as it is on other looms, the shed
depends completely on the elasticity of the
warp. When the shed becomes wider, the
tension on the yarns increases (enormously,
in case of a less elastic warp). That causes
heavy treadling and may damage the warp.
The moving breast beam is held by springs,
adjustable to give your warp the tension
needed for your project. Besides improvement
of the shed and protection of the warp, the
springs guarantee exactly the same warp
tension each time you have to advance the
fabric.
The Texsolv system, cord and heddles is a
Swedish product, crocheted out of polyester
yarn.
Cotton heddles have the advantage of being
silent in use. Metal heddles, flat or wire, have
the advantage of having open eyes. Texsolv
heddles combine these features. A bundle of
Texsolv heddles is a continuous line of 100
heddles folded into a zigzag. Each bundle is
fastened in four places. These ties make it
easy to pass the shaft bars through the upper
and lower loop of the heddles. Do not remove
the ties from the bundles, until the heddles
have been slipped onto the shaft bars or the
loops of the bundles are inserted by sticks, to
protect the heddles from becoming entangled.
If you need to remove heddles from a shaft,
first tie them as they were originally. Use a
pair of sharp scissors to cut the heddles apart.
Texsolv cord consists of two cords, which are
connected every 12 mm, forming loops in
between. If needed, the cord should be cut
between two loops. To prevent unraveling, the
ends should be singed. Be careful not to
overdo the melting and be aware that melted
polyester is very hot and will burn the skin.
By mentioning the first or last loop in these
instructions, the loop is meant, next to the one
where the cord is cut, because when that loop
remains after cutting, it has no strength and
should not be used.

3
Assembly tips and information
Barrel nuts
For the assembly of the looms, we use barrel
nuts and bolts or threaded ends to connect
two parts. These cylinder shaped nuts have a
slot on one of the flat sides. Always insert the
barrel nut into the wooden part, so that the slot
in the barrel nut is visible. The slot shows the
direction of the threaded hole in the nut. With
a flat screwdriver you can turn the barrel nut
so that it is positioned properly to catch the
bolt. If you have a problem inserting the bolt
into the barrel nut, try turning the barrel nut
180 degrees. This usually helps.
Carriage bolts
In other locations, we use carriage bolt to
assemble wooden parts. These bolts have a
square enlargement (neck) under the bolt
head. When you tighten the nut on the bolt,
this square neck locks into the wood to
prevent the bolt from turning. In some
instances, you will notice, that the bolt is just a
little too short for assembly with the washer
and nut. We advise you to put the nut on the
bolt without the washer, and then tighten the
nut sufficiently, so that the square neck pulls
into the wood. At this stage, unscrew the nut,
install the washer and then replace and
secure the nut again, tightly. Alternatively, you
can carefully tap against the bolt head with a
hammer, until the bolt head is secured into the
wood.
Washers and spacers
For the proper operation of the loom, it is very
important that you follow the correct assembly
sequence of the bolts, washers and spacers.
Please carefully follow the instructions.
To help you, we have assembled all the
washers and spacers in the hardware bags in
the right sequence.
Wood screws
Where wood screws are used, we have pre-
drilled holes in the wood. The screws will cut
their own thread into these holes. Please note
however, that the screws are very sharp, and
will cut into the full wood outside the pre-
drilled holes, if you miss the pre-drilled hole
during assembly. However if this happens,
you will notice that after a couple of turns, it
becomes very hard to turn the screw. There is
even a chance that the screw will twist off.
Moreover, the parts will be assembled in the
wrong location.
If you have to assemble and disassemble the
loom several times, make sure that the wood
screw turns in the same thread again which
was cut the first time. If you do not follow this
instruction, the hole in the wood will become
too large for the screw. To find this screw
thread, turn the screw anti clock wise, until
you "feel" the screw "drop" into the threaded
part in the wood.
Tools
All parts used for the loom are metric. To
facilitate the assembly, we have included two
wrenches (10 mm for M6, 13 mm for M8) and
a pz2 cross head screwdriver (not a Phillips
head).

5
Assembly of the Delta
It will take you approximately 5 hours to
complete the assembly of the Delta.
The Delta is packed in three boxes and a
fourth box inside of box A.
Lay down box A horizontal on the floor and
open the box at both ends. Push the middle
part so far out of the box that you can cut the
straps of the fourth box. Put this box out of
the way, you will need the contents in the
second part of the assembly.
Move the middle part completely out of the
box.
Find the following parts inside box B:
-a bag with a screwdriver and wrenches 10
and 13 mm
-hardware bags1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and a bag with
some spare parts
-crank for the warp beam
-cloth beam lever
-beater handle
-2 extenders
-left and right side piece
-left and right front upright
-left and right base side
-left and right warp beam support
-2 floating arms
-2 beater uprights

6
Assembly of the frame
The parts of the frame show corresponding letters: A, B, C, etc., at places where they have to be
assembled.
Open hardware bag 1:
- 6 bolts M8 x 130 mm with washer Ø8-25
mm and barrel nut M8
- 2 bolts M8 x 110 mm with washer Ø8-25
mm and barrel nut M8
- 2 bolts M8 x 70 mm with washer Ø8-25 mm
and barrel nut M8
- 2 carriage bolts M8 x 65 mm with each 2
washers Ø8-25 mm, nylon bushing Ø8-12 x
20 mm and a star shaped knob M8
- 2 rollers
- 2 lag bolts Ø6 x 35 mm
- 2 screw eyes
- 4 rubber buffers
- 1 plastic buffer
- 1 screw 4 x 21 mm

7
Place the already assembled middle part of the loom with the backside on the floor and
assemble the base side parts (connections A-A and B-B). Use 2 bolts M8 x 130 mm with washer
and barrel nut.
Mount both side pieces onto the uprights of the
middle part with 2 bolts M8 x 110 mm, washer
and barrel nut (connections C-C and D-D).
Now the front uprights have to be mounted
onto the side pieces of the loom with 4 bolts M8
x 130 mm, washer and barrel nut (connections
E-E, F-F, I-I and J-J).
Open box C and find:
- Treadle rail.
- Upper reed holder.
- Breast beam with cloth protector.
- Clothe beam.
- Lower reed holder.
- Foot rail.
- Back beam.
- 2 Apron bars.
- 2 Cross sticks.
- 16 Warp sticks.

8
Assemble the foot rail (connections G-G and H-
H): Place the foot rail at one side with its
dowels into the holes of the upright. Now you
can position the dowels into the holes at the
other side after pushing the upright and the foot
rail from each other.
Fasten the construction with the bolts M8 x
70 mm, washers and barrel nuts.
Screw the 4 rubber buffers into the holes at
the bottom side and put the Delta on its feet.
Attach the plastic buffer onto the inside of the
right front upright with the screw 4 x 21 mm.
This buffer will support the cloth beam lever.

9
Screw on each side a screw eye into the little
hole near the connection of upright and base
side part.
Screw them so far that only the eyes protrude
from the wood (the eye of the screw eyes
“looking” in vertical direction).
The rollers have to be attached using the lag
bolts. Fasten them and then unscrew them a
little to allow the rollers to turn freely.
Two carriage bolts M8 x 65 mm with each two
washers, a nylon bushing and a star shaped
knob should now be assembled onto the side
uprights of the loom. They will be used to
connect the extenders, as you can see on the
picture. These extenders will be assembled
later on.
Insert the bolt from the inside through the hole
in the upright, put on successively a washer,
the bushing, the other washer and complete the
assembly with the star shaped knob.

10
Assembly of the warp beam part
Open hardware bag 2:
-4 screws 5 x 40 mm
-2 screws 4 x 30 mm
-2 bolts M6 x 70 mm with washer and
barrel nut
-2 bolts M8 x 100 mm with a small washer,
a metal bushing, a big washer and a
barrel nut
-2 screw eyes
Collect the brake disc and the warp beam.
Slide the disc over the longer axle of the warp
beam (connection Q-Q). Fasten the disc with
the four screws 5 x 40 mm.

11
Collect the other parts needed for the warp beam section: The back beam, the treadle rail and
the two warp beam supports. You will recognize them from their connection marks: O, P, M and
N. These marks will help you to position the parts on the floor in the way they should be
assembled. The notches in the treadle rail should face the outside.
Insert successively the treadle rail and the
back beam with their dowels into the warp
beam support (connection N-N and P-P).
Position the warp beam in combination with
its other support and push this warp beam
support onto the dowels of the treadle rail and
the back beam (connections M-M and O-O).
Take the two extenders and the two bolts
M8 x 100 mm with washers, bushing and a
barrel nut.

12
Mount these three parts on both sides: the
extender, the warp beam support and the
back beam. The bushing should be inserted
into the hole of the extender, so the extender
can hinge in between the two washers, due to
the bushing being a bit longer than the hole in
the extender.
Do mind that the gap and the dowel in the
extender are facing upwards when the warp
beam section is in the position as showed on
the picture.
Fix the connection of the treadle rail to the
warp beam supports using the last two bolts
with washer and barrel nut from the hardware
bag. As you can see on the picture, the barrel
nut has to be inserted from the bottom side in
this position.
The two little screw eyes have to be screwed
into the small holes, located close to the back
beam. Screw them so far that only the eyes
are protruding from the wood.
If you are used to leave your cross sticks in
the warp during weaving, you have to attach
the cross sticks to these screw eyes to
prevent the sticks from passing the back
beam when you advance the cloth. The two
screws left will be used to attach the warp
beam section to the loom.
Mounting the warp beam section onto the Delta and assembly of the treadles
Open the box that was packed in box A and unpack the treadles and other parts: a hardware
bag, heddles, tie-up cords for the treadles and the locking pin. Open the hardware bag:
-5 axles
-6 screws 5 x 35 mm
-6 washers
There is a groove along the bottom side of the treadle rail. In this groove the axles of the treadles
will be attached by means of the screws and washers. For each two treadles is one axle and so
there are two notches for treadles in between two holes for the screws.

13
Slide washers over the 5 x 35 mm screws
and screw them into the holes of the treadle
rail. If you have to mount 10 treadles (Delta
with 8 shafts) you don’t need the two notches
at both ends of the rail and you don’t use
screws in the first and last hole of the rail.
Screw in the screws so far that you just can
put the axles behind the washers into the
groove.
Position the warp beam section onto the base
sides at the rear of the loom, inserting the
flexible dowels into the holes of the base
sides.
Hook the extenders at both sides with their
dowel behind the supports.

14
The remaining screws from hardware bag 2
are used now to fix the flexible dowel in the
base sides.
Insert an axle through the holes of two treadles and place this assembly into two notches of the
treadle rail, pushing the axle under the washers into the groove. Mount on next assembly of two
treadles and an axle. Every time you mount on next two treadles you can screw on the screws of
the last pair of treadles so far the axle is kept in the groove. After all the axles and treadles are in
place, you may fix all the screws tightly.
Assembly of the floating arms and attaching the springs and cords for the moving breast
beam
Open hardware bag 3:
- 2 carriage bolts M8 x 75 mm, with big
washer, bushing Ø8-12 x 33 mm, small
washer and cap nut M8
- 6 screws 4 x 17 mm
- 2 springs with Texsolv cords, 140 cm long
- 2 Texsolv cords, 19,5 cm long

15
Mount the floating arms at the insides of the
front uprights. The marks K and L help you to
assemble left and right correctly.
For this hinging joint you have to insert the
carriage bolt from the outside (no K or L)
through the hole in the arm, then slip on the
big washer and the bushing. Insert the
assembly through the hole in the upright, slip
on the small washer and fasten the assembly
with the cap nut.
Four screws 4 x 17 mm have to be screwed
into the floating arms. The thread of the
screw has to disappear into the wood; the
screw heads should protrude ±4 mm.
The other two screws 4 x 17 mm have to be
screwed into the holes at the rear of the front
uprights (also protruding ± 4 mm).
Use the short Texsolv cords to connect these
screws to the upper screws on the floating
arms. These cords limit the arms in their
movement.

16
Hook on the springs to the screw eyes at the
inside of the main uprights of the Delta.
Lead the spring cords through the screw eyes, underneath the rollers and hook the ends on to
the screw head of the floating arm.
Assembly of the brake of the warp beam
Open hardware bag 4:
- 2 screw eyes Ø12
- 1 carriage bolt M8 x 75 mm with washer Ø
8-25 mm, bushing Ø8-12 x 33 mm, washer
Ø8-17 mm and cap nut M8
- 1 carriage bolt M8 x 55 mm with washer Ø
8-25 mm, bushing Ø 8-12 x 12 mm, washer
Ø 8-17 mm and cap nut M8
- 1 spring
- 1 brake cable with threaded eye M8 and
barrel nut M8
- 10 beam cords
- 1 ratchet wheel
- 4 screws 4 x 30 mm
- 1 pawl
- 1 lag bolt Ø6 x 30 mm
- 2 screws 4 x 13 mm

17
Screw a screw eye into the brake pedal and
the other one into the warp beam support;
both so far that the shaft disappears into the
wood. The eyes should be parallel to the
direction of the wood.
Mount on the pedal to the warp beam
support: Insert the carriage bolt M8 x 75 mm
from the outside through the hole in the
support. Slip over the big washer, then the
33 mm bushing, the brake pedal, the small
washer and tighten the assembly with the cap
nut.
Hook on the spring to both screw eyes. This
goes easier after folding the warp beam
section towards the loom.
Unfold the warp beam section again.
The carriage bolt M8 x 55 mm for attaching
the brake cable has to be mounted on the
warp beam support between the warp beam
and the back beam. After inserting the bolt
through the support, put on the big washer,
the 12 mm bushing and tighten it with the cap
nut.

18
Hook on the loop of the cable tot this bolt
assembly and wind the cable two times
around the disc in the direction as shown on
the picture.
Connect the other end of the cable to the
pedal: unscrew the barrel nut from the
threaded eye and put the threaded end
through the slot in the pedal. To screw on the
barrel nut again you will need to depress the
pedal and replace a winding of the cable
aside the disc on the warp beam.
Screw on the barrel nut so far that the thread
is protruding about ½ cm.
To replace the cable into the disc depress the
pedal again. Release the pedal while you
keep the barrel nut in the half round notch at
the bottom side. The position of the pedal
should be about horizontal and if not, you can
adjust that with the barrel nut repeating this
procedure.
Installing the cloth beam, the breast beam and attaching the beam cords
Use the lag bolt to screw pawl at the inside of
the right side piece. Tighten the bolt and then
release it a bit until the pawl can turn around
the bolt freely.

19
The two round head screws 4 x13mm has to be screwed into the small holes close to the pawl.
They are the stops for the movement of the pawl. First screw in the left one; let the long end of
the pawl rest on it, and then the other screw.
Screw the ratchet wheel onto the cloth beam
at the side with the longer axle. Use the four
screws 4x30mm; their heads should fit the
countersunk holes in the wheel.
Slip the cloth beam lever onto the axle
against the ratchet wheel and install this
assembly into the loom.
Other manuals for Delta
1
Table of contents
Other Louet Other manuals
Popular Other manuals by other brands

Extech Instruments
Extech Instruments RHT10 user guide

S&B Filters
S&B Filters 75-5106 Installation instructions manual

Acer
Acer LumiRead 600 user guide

dataTaker
dataTaker DT80 user manual

Alpine
Alpine 462 Assembly & operation manual

Feig Electronic
Feig Electronic ID RW02.ABC-A:ID RW02.ABC-B installation instructions

Qleen
Qleen PURASTART User information

Marshall Amplification
Marshall Amplification Major III Bluetooth - on ear user manual

Billion
Billion BiPAC 8520 quick start guide

Oksys
Oksys ECOS-150 Use and instruction manual

RTS
RTS Fiber Optic Interface Back Card installation instructions

Tetra
Tetra WP 600 instruction manual