Mill-right CARVE KING 2 User manual

Page 1 or 34
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MILLRIGHT CNC CARVE KING 2
Version 1.00
Note that these are instructions for the Carve King 2. For instructions on the original Carve King, see
www.millrightcnc.com/resources
Contact [email protected] if you have questions.
Important safety rules for operating your MillRight CNC Carve King 2:
Never place your hands near a spinning end mill or bit.
Unplug the router before changing cutting tools.
Always wear eye and ear protection while operating your machine.
Always run a dust collector or wear a mask while performing a milling operation.
Do not leave the machine unattended while running a milling operation.
Do not operate your machine while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Secure long hair and loose clothing so it is not caught in spinning mechanisms.
Ensure work pieces are properly secured before running a milling operation.
Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
Visually inspect wires prior to power up to prevent short circuits.
Note:
We recommend using a blue thread locker on any fastener not secured with a lock washer or lock nut.

Page 2 or 34
Building the Bed and Frame Section
Parts
(4) 593mm Extrusion
(1) Front Frame
(1) Rear Frame
(5) Black Aluminum T Track
(4) MDF Bed Section
Hardware
(16) #10x1 Self-tapping Screw
(20) M5x8 Button Cap Screw
(16) M5x16 Machine Screw
(16) M5 Split Lock Washer
(36) Drop-In T Nut
Tools
3mm Hex Key
Phillips Screwdriver
8mm or 5/16 Wrench or Socket
WD40 or Other Lubricant
Place (4) 593mm extrusions between the front and rear
frames. The slot on the 40mm side of the extrusion should
be facing up and oriented to the outside of the machine.
The two left should have the slot on the left, the two right
should have the slot on the right. You can put a T track over
these extrusions to get a better idea of the orientation
needed for the holes to align.

Page 3 or 34
Lubricate 2 #10x1 self-tapping screws.
Place the screws through the holes in the
bottom of the frame into the holes in the
end of the right most extrusion. Use the
8mm socket to drive in the screws. Leave
loose. Continue installing the #10x1
screws in the other 3 extrusions.
Spin the frame around to work from the
other side. Put one drop-in T nut in each
slot with the hole leading. Line up one T
track with the T nuts. Using the 3mm Hex
Key, drive in (4) M5x8 button cap screws.
Leave loose. Push the t track to the frame.
The hole of the T nut must be closer to
the frame when slid all the way down or
else the T track will not seat all the way to
the frame.
Put one T nut in each slot. Line up one
MDF bed section with the t nuts. Put (4)
split lock washers on (4) M5x16 machine
screws. Using the screwdriver, drive the
screws into the t nuts. Leave loose. Push
the bed section to the back, up against the
T track you previously installed.
Alternate between the remaining T track
and bed sections pushing each back.
On the fifth T track, place the T nuts into
the slot with the hole in the T Nut closest
to the outside. Finish installing the last T
track. Leave everything loose.

Page 4 or 34
Lubricate (2) #10x1 self-tapping screws.
Place screws through the holes in the
bottom of the remaining frame piece into
the holes in the end of the extrusion. Use
the 8mm socket to drive the screws. Leave
loose. Continue the process, installing the
remaining extrusions.
Y Rail Installation
Parts
(2) 593mm Extrusion
Hardware
(8) #10x1 Self-tapping Screw
Tools
8mm or 5/16” Wrench or Socket
WD40 or Other Lubricant
Working from the side of the assembly, place one 593mm
extrusion with the slot on the 40mm wide face pointing in
and oriented with the slot near the top of the extrusion as
shown in the picture. Remember, one of the frame pieces
should be slightly loose so you can set this extrusion in
place.

Page 5 or 34
Lubricate (2) self-tapping screws. Place the screws
through the two holes on the frame and into the holes in
the end of the extrusion. Finger tighten the screws to
hold the extrusion in place. Do the same to the other
end of the extrusion. Follow the same process with the
second extrusion on the other side of the bed. Be sure
that the slots on the side of the extrusion faces inboard
and are up.
Tighten all the screws on the frame. Tighten the screws
for the MDF bed sections and the T tracks. You may need
a long screwdriver at a slight angle to the screw or a
stubby screwdriver to reach the screws under the Y rails.

Page 6 or 34
Gantry End Plate Assembly
Parts
Motor Side Gantry Plate
Idler Side Gantry Plate
X/Z Motor Spacer Plate
Short Wire Motor
Hardware
Pillow Block Bearing
Coupler
(2) Anti-backlash Nut
(2) M5 Grub Screw (in Anti-backlash nut bag)
(2) M5 Jam Nut (in Anti-backlash nut bag)
(4) M3x16 Machine Screw
(2) M5x10 Machine Screw
(4) M5x16 Machine Screw
V-Wheel Kit
Tools
8mm or 5/16 Wrench or Socket
Phillips Screwdriver
3mm Hex Key
2.5mm Hex Key
Place a v-wheel on a flat, hard surface. Place a
bearing on top of the v-wheel. Using something
else flat and hard, press the bearing into the v-
wheel using your body weight. A section of wood is pictured. Turn the v-wheel over. Place a M5
washer on the bearing in the wheel. It is especially important to remember the M5 Washer. It is
extremely hard to correct this if you forget. Press a second bearing into the wheel. Repeat this process
for the other wheels.

Page 7 or 34
Place (2) eccentric spacers in the
Idler Side Gantry Plate (top
picture on previous page). Place
eccentric spacers with the thin
wall portion pointing to the top of
the Idler Side Gantry Plate. Put a
M5x30 machine screw through
the v-wheel, then through the
eccentric spacer. Secure with a
M5 nylock nut. Leave Snug, not tight. Repeat the process with
another v-wheel. Take careful note of which side of the place the
spacers and wheels are installed on.
Place the pillow block bearing on the Idler
Side Gantry Plate as pictured. Secure the
pillow block bearings with (2) M5x10
machine screws. Flip the plate
over.Screw in a M5 grub screw in the top
of an anti-backlash nut using a 3mm Hex
Key. Stop tightening when the grub
screw touches the bottom. Cap the grub
screw with a M5 jam nut. Repeat the
process for the second anti-backlash nut.
Place an anti-backlash nut on the plate as
pictured. Secure it with (2) M5x16
machine screws.

Page 8 or 34
Place (2) eccentric spacers into the Motor Side Gantry
Plate with the thin wall of the eccentric spacer facing up.
Place a M5x30 machine screw through a v-wheel, then
the eccentric spacer, and secure with a M5 nylock nut.
Repeat the process with a second wheel. Flip the plate.
Place the coupler on the short wire motor using the X/Z
Motor Spacer Plate to set the coupler to the correct
position. See picture to right of spacer being used to set
the proper position. Tighten the coupler using the
2.5mm Hex Key.
With the Motor Spacer Plate still on the motor, insert
the coupler into the large hole on the Motor Side Y
Gantry Plate. The motor wire should be pointing left if
you are looking at the back of the motor. From the v-
wheel side of the place (4) M3x16 machine screw
through the Motor Side Y Gantry Plate, through the
Motor Spacer Plate, into the motor. Snug down.
Coupler should have free rotational motion.

Page 9 or 34
On the motor side of the Motor Side Y Gantry Plate,
place an anti-backlash nut. Using (2) M5x16 machine
screws, secure the anti-backlash nut to the plate.
Place both Y Gantry Plates to the side.
X Plate Assembly
Parts
X Plate
Z Bottom Plate
UHMW Screw Seat
Hardware
(2) M5 Nylock Nut
(1) Anti-backlash Nut
(1) M5 Grub Screw (in Anti-backlash nut bag)
(1) M5 Jam Nut (in Anti-backlash nut bag)
(2) M5x16 Machine Screw

Page 10 or 34
(2) M5x12 Button Cap
(2) #10x1 Self-tapping Screw
V-Wheel Kit
Tools
Phillips Screwdriver
8mm or 5/16” Wrench or Socket
3mm Hex Key
WD40 or Other Lubricant
The top of the X Plate Extrusion has a notch. The
bottom is flat. Take a M5x25 machine screw and put
it through a v wheel, then through a standard spacer
from the v-wheel kit, then screw it into the X Plate
Extrusion. Repeat the process with 3 other v-wheels.
Screw an M5 grub screw into the top of an anti-
backlash nut using the 3mm Hex key. Cap the grub
screw with a M5 Jam Nut. Using M5x16 machine
screws, attach the anti-backlash nut to the X Plate
Extrusion.

Page 11 or 34
Place a M5x30 machine screw through the hole in the
front of the X Plate Extrusion. Place an eccentric
spacer on the screw. The thin part of the spacer
should face the top if near the top, the bottom if near
the bottom.
Then place a V-wheel on the screw and secure with a
M5 nylock nut. Repeat the process with three other
v-wheels. Leave Snug. See the picture to the right of
the screw being inserted through the hole in the front
of the X plate with the other components slid onto it.
Of the 8 V wheels on the X plate, 4 use eccentric
spacers and 4 use standard spacers. The top and
bottom holes use eccentric spacers. The four in the
middle use standard spacers.
Attach the UHMW Screw Seat to the Z Bottom Plate
using (2) M5x12 button cap screws and (2) M5 nylock
nuts.

Page 12 or 34
Place the Z Bottom Plate on the bottom of the
X Plate Extrusion. Lubricate (2) #10x1 self-
tapping screws and place them through the Z
Bottom Plate into the holes at the end of the X
Plate Extrusion. Tighten with the 8mm wrench.
Place the X Plate Extrusion to the side.

Page 13 or 34
Z Motor Mount
Parts
Z Motor Mount
X/Z Motor Spacer Plate
Long Wire Motor
X Drag Chain Post
Hardware
(4) M3x16
(1) M4x12
(1) M4 Split-Lock Washer
Tools
Phillips Screwdriver
Put the motor on the table with the cord pointing
away from you. Place the Motor Spacer Plate on the
motor. Place the Z Motor Mount on the Motor
Spacer Plate. Screw in (4) M3x16 machine screws into
the motor.
Make sure the motor is centered with the Motor
Spacer Plate and the Z Motor Mount. Tighten screws.
Lay the motor on its side. Attach the X Drag Chain
Post using a M4x12 Machine Screw with an M4 Split-
Lock Washer. Tighten. Place to the side. Note that
the X Drag Chain Post is just a cylinder with holes
tapped on each side. Do not confuse this with the Y
Drag Chain Post, which has additional features
machined into it.

Page 14 or 34
Z Plate
Parts
Z Plate
Router Mount
2 Hole Spacer
178mm Lead Screw
Hardware
(1) Anti-backlash Nut
(2) Nylock Nuts
(1) Grub Screw (in Anti-backlash nut bag)
(1) M5 Jam Nut (in Anti-backlash nut bag)
(1) Coupler
(2) M5x25 Machine Screw
(2) #10x1 Self-tapping Screw
V-Wheel Kit
Tools
Phillips Screwdriver
2.5mm Hex Key
3mm Hex Key
8mm or 5/16 Wrench or Socket
10mm Wrench
WD40 or Other Lubricant

Page 15 or 34
Place eccentric spacers in the (6) large holes on the Z Plate.
The thin part of the eccentric spacers should face the middle
of the plate. Place a M5x30 machine screw through the Z
Plate, then through the eccentric spacer. Place a v-wheel on
the screw and secure with a M5 nylock nut. Tighten firmly.
Repeat the process with (5) other v wheels.
Press (2) M5 nylock nuts into the hexagonal holes on the face
of an anti-backlash nut. The nylon portion of the nut should
be facing up. Drive a grub screw into the top of the anti-
backlash nut using the 3mm Hex key. Stop when the screw
touches. Cap the grub screw with a M5 jam nut.
Place the 2-hole spacer on the Z Plate. Place the anti-backlash
nut on the 2-hole spacer. From the opposite side attach the
anti-backlash nut using (2) M5x25 machine screws. You may
have to hold the nylock nuts in place to prevent them being
pushed out of the antibacklash nut as you insert the screws.
The router mount will already have its hardware installed.
Remove the (2) screws and (2) lock washers from the back of
the mount. Put the screws through the lock washers, through
the Z Plate using the last two holes, and into the mount using
the 3mm Hex Key. Be careful to install the router mount
straight on the Z plate.
Slide the Z Plate, mount end first, into the X Plate Extrusion
from the top. If the Z Plate will not fit, use the 10mm wrench
to turn the eccentric spacers until the Z Plate will slide
completely in. Turn the eccentrics until the wheels are snug
against the X Plate Extrusion. Do the same with the next pairs
of wheels as you continue to slide the Z plate into the X plate.
The wheels should each make firm contact, but the Z plate
should still slide when given some hand pressure.

Page 16 or 34
From the top of the X Plate Extrusion, thread the
178mm lead screw through the anti-backlash nut
connected to the Z Plate. Continue until the lead
screw is sitting in the pocket on the UHMW Screw
seat.
Place the coupler on the top of the lead screw. Leave
loose.
Grab the Z Motor Mount. Place the shaft of the
motor into the top of the coupler. Leave loose.
Lubricate (2) #10x1 self-tapping screws. Place them
through the Z motor mount into the holes at the end
of the X Plate Extrusion. Tighten with the 8mm
wrench.
Using the 2.5mm Hex Key, tighten the coupler to
the motor shaft and the lead screw. The lead
screw MUST be firmly against the UHMW piece
at the bottom of the assembly or the coupler
will separate, causing the Z axis to lose height
during operation. Make sure the coupler does
not separate when the Z axis plate is pulled
downward.

Page 17 or 34
Attaching XZ Assembly to Gantry Plates
Parts
613mm Extrusion w/ MillRight Sticker
613mm Extrusion
(1) 600mm Lead Screw
Hardware
(8) #10x1 Self-tapping Screws
Tools
Phillips Screwdriver
1.5mm Hex Key
2.5mm Hex Key
8mm or 5/16”Wrench or Socket
WD40 or Other Lubricant
Run the 613mm extrusions through the v-wheels on
the X Plate Extrusion. The extrusion with the
MillRight sticker will go up top. Make sure the
extrusions are oriented as pictured. If the wheels are
too tight, use the 10mm wrench to turn the eccentric
spacers until the extrusions fit. Once the extrusion is
in, turn the eccentric spacers until the wheels are
making good contact with the extrusion.
Tighten the v-wheels making sure not to turn the
eccentric spacers. Turn the XZ Assembly over and
move it to the end of the extrusions with the sticker.

Page 18 or 34
Lubricate (4) #10x1 self-tapping screws and place
them through the Idler Side Y Gantry Plate into the
holes on the end of the 613mm extrusion. Use the
8mm socket to tighten the screws.
Using the 1.5mm Hex Key, loosen the set screws on
the pillow block bearing. Thread the 600mm lead
screw through the anti-backlash nut on the XZ
Assembly until a portion of it sticks through the pillow
block bearing as pictured on the top right of this
page.
Lubricate (4) #10x1 self-tapping screws. Place them
through the Motor Side Y Gantry Plate and into the
holes in the end of the 613mm extrusion. Use the
8mm socket to tighten the screws.
Turn the 600mm lead screw until the screw fits into
the coupler attached to the Motor Side Gantry Plate.
Make sure the screw is still engaging the pillow block
bearing. Use the 2.5mm Hex Key to tighten the
coupler to the lead screw.
Use a Philips screwdriver to tighten the machine screws on the pillow block bearing. Use the 1.5mm
Hex Key to tighten the set screw on the pillow block bearing. The coupler should NOT separate if you
push the X/Z assembly to the right. If it separates, the set screws on the pillow block bearing are not set
properly.

Page 19 or 34
Gantry to Y Rails
Parts
(2) 600mm Lead Screw
(2) Motors (one long wire, one short wire)
(2) 3 Hole Motor Spacers
Hardware
(2) Drop-in T Nut
(2) M5x10 Machine Screw
(2) M5x16 Machine Screw
(4) M5x16 Button Cap Screw
(6) M3x20 Machine Screws
(2) M5 Washer
(2) M5 Split Washer
(6) M5 Nylock Nut
(2) Pillow Block Bearing
(2) Corner Bracket
(2) Coupler
V-Wheel Kit
Tools
Phillips Screwdriver
3mm Hex Key
2.5mm Hex Key
1.5mm Hex Key
8mm or 5/16” Wrench or Socket
10mm Wrench

Page 20 or 34
Place the Gantry onto the Y Rails as pictured.
Place a V-wheel on an M5x25 machine screw,
followed by a standard spacer from the V-
wheel kit. Put the v-wheel into the V groove
of the extrusion before tightening the screw.
Screw the v-wheel into the bottom of the
Gantry Y Plate. It the fit is tight, use the
10mm wrench to adjust the eccentric spacers.
You may have to loosen the screws on the top
wheels to get the bottom wheel screws to line
up with the threaded hole.
Repeat the process for the other 3 V-wheels.
Use the 10mm wrench to turn the eccentric
spacers to give the v-wheels a good grip on
the extrusion. Tighten the v-wheels, being
careful not to turn the eccentric spacers when
you do.
This will secure the gantry assembly to the Y
rails. The gantry should smoothly roll forward
and back.