OLT 6x6 Apex User manual

6x6 Apex Storage Shed
Assembly Manual
Version #4
Jan 24th, 2018
Thank you for purchasing
a 6x6 Apex Storage Shed.
Please take the time to identify
all the parts prior to assembly.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation and normal residential
use, on level ground. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Manufacturing Ltd. and any Authorized Dealers
free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
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Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today
Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your
purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be
provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.

Thank you for purchasing a 6x6 Apex Storage Shed
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
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Parts List:
1. Floor Section
2 - 35” x 75” - Floor Frames - 1A
4 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Floor Joists - 1B
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 70” Floor Runners - 1C
2 - 5/8” x 35” x 75” - Plywood Floor - 1D
2. Wall Section
6 - 35” x 75” - Wall Panels - (Walls with Bottom Plates Unattached) - 2A
6 - 1 1/2”x 2 1/2” x 35” - Bottom Wall Plates - 2B
Door Jambs & Header
2 - 2 1/2” x 3 7/8” x 73” - Vertical Door Jamb with -Cleat to bottom - 2C
1 - 2” x 2 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Door Header - 2D
Top Wall Plates
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Side Top Plates (Angle cut on ends) - 2E
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/4” x 65” - Front & Rear Top Plates ( Angle cut on 1 edge) - 2F
2 - 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 5 1/2” Front Triangular Corner Brackets - 2G
Gable Walls
2 - Gable Walls - Triangular Shaped - 2H
Misc. Wall
1 pc - Spare Wall Siding - 2I
3. Rafter and Roof Section
12 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45” - Roof Rafters with angled ends - 3A
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 70” - Roof Ridge Boards - 3B
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 70” - Soffits - 3C
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 48” - Roof Gusset - 3D
2 - Left Roof Panels 41” (Shingles overhanging plywood on left side) - 3E
2 - Right Roof Panels 41” (Shingles overhanging plywood on right side) - 3F
4 - Roof/Facia Cleats - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 42” - 3G
6 - Long Roof Filler Shingles - 3H
2 - Short Roof Filler Shingles - 3I
12 - Roof Ridge Caps - 3J
4. Miscellaneous Trim Section
2 - 3/4” x 4 3/8” x 79” - Door Trim - 4A
1 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 64” - Front Bottom Skirting - 4B
6 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 34 3/4” - Side and Rear Bottom Skirting - 4C
2 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Rear Filler Trim - 4D
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Side Rear Wide Trim - 4E
3 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79” - Narrow Trim (Rear Wall) - 4F
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Side Front Wide Trim - 4G
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 37 7/8” - Horizontal Gable Trim - 4H
2 - 1/2”x 2 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Narrow Trim (Side Walls) - 4I
2 - Horizontal Gable Detail Plates - 4J
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 46” - Side Facia - Angle cut both ends - ( 2 right / 2 left) - 4K
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 79 1/2” - Front and Rear Facia - 4L
2- Pentagon Facia Plate - 4M
1 - Left Side Door - 4N
1 - Right Side Door - 4O
2 - Cedar Shingles used for Shims - 4P
1 - 1/2” x 1 1/4” x 64” - Above Door Trim - 4Q
1 - 2 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 64” - Horizontal Door Stop with Dado cut - 4R
1 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 62 1/2” - Door Threshold - 4S
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 71” - Interior Door Flange - 4T
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 71” - Interior Door Stops - 4U
* Note - Trim pieces are graded best face on the rough side. Use this side out.

Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required
Safety Equipment Required
1/8” & 1/2” Drill Bits
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Door Handle (K) - 2 Pcs. Exterior Barrel
Bolt (L)- 1 Pc. Tee Hinge (H) - 6 Pcs.
Individual Hardware Components (not actual size)
Screws and Nails (actual size)
Cane Bolt (M) - 1 Pc.
6 x 6 Apex HARDWARE PACKAGE
2 1/2”
2”
1 1/4”
2”
3/4”
1 1/2”
Black Headed
Black Headed
Finishing Nail
Square Drive Bit
3”
(A) - 1 Pc.
(F) - 250 Pcs.
(J) - 26 Pcs.
(C) - 116 Pcs.
(I) - 38 Pcs.
(E) - 110 Pcs.
(B) - 164 Pcs.
(D) - 30 Pcs.
Simpson Strong
Tie (G) - 8 Pcs.
1 1/4” Shingle Nail (N) - 30 Pcs.

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
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Page 4

A. Floor Section
Plywood Flooring - 2 pcs.
(Part 1D)
Floor Frames 2 pcs.
(Part 1A)
Floor Runners - 3 pcs.
(Part 1C)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note, Floor Footprint is 70” wide x 75” deep.
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
1. Lay out one Floor Frame Section (Part 1A) and Floor Joists 2 @ 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 72” (Part 1B)
as illustrated above. Space joists equally in floor frame section flush with framing.
Flush
with
framing
Floor Joists - 4 pcs.
(Part 1B)
Floor
Joists
Front
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3. Lay out both completed Floor
Frames as illustrated.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B) - 2 per end. Complete
Joist attachments for 2nd Floor Frame.
4. Align Floor Frames together as shown below. Screw sections together with 8 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B).
Alternate screw location. Use a wood clamp to keep frames together while screwing.
5. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 70” wide x 75” deep.
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You can find the
Square Drive Bit
(Part A) for the
screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
Front 70”

Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor
runners will sit on your foundation. It is
important to note that having a level foundation
is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary
between regions. Typical foundations can be
concrete pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
9. With floor runners attached, carefully flip the floor
over and place on your foundation.
Caution- you will need 2 people to assist you. Be
careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist
floor. When in place, level floor completely.
Measure diagonal in both directions to confirm
square.Both should be approximately 102 1/2”. Adjust
floor if necessary.
Concrete slab
foundation
Foundations
6. Attach Floor Runners 3 @ 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 70”
(Part 1C) to completed floor frames. There are 3
floor runners per 70” side. Use 8 - 2 1/2” Screws
(Part B) per runner.
7. Make sure runners are flush with outside and
front and rear floor framing but not overhanging.
8. Complete all floor runner attachments.
10. Position Plywood Floors - 2 pcs (Part 1D) on top of completed floor frames as shown above.
The plywood is cut slightly smaller than floor framing. Align so plywood seam is tight.
Front
Center mid
runner
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102 1/2”
Measure Diagonal

11. With Plywood positioned
correctly on floor framing, attach
using 16 - 1 1/4” screws (Part C)
per sheet.
2. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
the Wall Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Wall Panels - 6 pcs.
(Part 2A)
Side Top Plates
- 2 pcs. (Part 2F)
Angle cut on ends
Front and Rear Top
Plates - 2 pcs. (Part 2E)
Angle cut on edge
Gable Walls - 2 pcs. (Part 2G)
Door Jamb - 2 pcs.
(Part 2C)
Bottom Wall Plate - 6 pcs.
(Part 2B)
Bottom Wall Plate
12. Carefully lay a Wall Panel (Part 2A) face down. Locate a Wall Plate - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 35”
(Part 2B) and position plate flush with framing and siding. Attach to bottom of wall framing with
3 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B). Complete all bottom wall plate attachments for remaining walls at this time.
Door Header
(Part 2D)
plywood
pushed together
at seam
75”
70” Front
Completed Floor
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13. Lay out all the wall
panels.
Make sure to position panels
right side up so water is
directed away from and not
into shed.
Note, to determine correct
alignment, the attached
Bottom Wall Plate of wall
panel will be sitting on floor.
14. Starting at rear corner, position wall
panel on top of plywood floor. The wall panel
bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing
slightly overhanging plywood. The butt of the
wall siding will overhang plywood floor.
15. The wall panel will sit flush at the end of the
plywood floor with the butt of the siding overhanging
the floor.
Note: Siding will overhang the floor by approx. 7/8”
Important - initial wall orientation is important. If wall
not aligned correctly, you may experience problems.
Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel
will sit even with outside of floor
framing with plywood flooring
slightly inset on side of shed
Rear Wall Panel.
Front
Side of Shed
Door Jamb
Door Header
Front
Wall Siding
Butt
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I piece of spare Bevel Wall
Siding - 3/4” x 7 1/2” x 35”
(Part 2I) is included in kit.
Please do not discard.
Use if any wall damage has
occurred during shipping or a
repair to the wall is needed
later on.

Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor until Step 28.
16. Position side wall into place on
plywood floor. Butt both vertical wall
frames of side and rear walls together
tight and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” screws
(Part B). Start at top and screw in the
middle and bottom of framing. Screw
on a slight angle into the meat of both
frames.
17. With the corner wall
attachment complete, position
a second side wall panel in
place.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering at
seam.
Caulking not included in
kit.
Side Wall
Rear Wall
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19. Align wall panel framing as per Step 18. The wall panel framing with sit flush with floor framing as
shown above. Attach vertical wall frames together as per Step 18.
20. Position and attach remaining side wall panels together as per Steps 16-18.
Rear
Wall panel
framing aligned
flush with floor
framing
Side Floor Framing
Rear Wall
18. Align vertical wall frames of both side wall panels together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B).
Locate and position the 2nd rear wall panel into place.
Rear Wall Panels
Side Wall Panels
Side Wall Panels
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Gap
2nd
Rear
Wall
Panel

23. Position and attach the Door Header flush to outside end of door jamb with 2 - 3” screws (Part D)
per side. Important - Drill 1/8” pilot holes in end of door header to prevent wood from splitting.
21. Locate Door Jambs - 2 @ 2 1/2” x 3 7/8” wide x 73” (Part 2C). Jambs have 1”
cleat attached to each bottom. Align jambs with 1” thick bottom cleat to floor. Align jamb
on vertical wall frame to be 1/2” offset to the inside as shown above. Do a dry run with
Door Header - 2” x 2 1/2” x 71 3/4” (Part 2D) first to confirm spacing. See Step 23.
Header is 71” long and will sit flush to outside of each jamb when correctly installed.
1/2” overhang
on inside of
wall framing
22. Install each door jamb to vertical wall framing with 7 - 3” screws
(Part D). Evenly space 4 screws from outside and 3 from the inside. Use
Clamp hold jamb in place. Sink screws 1/4” deep into jambs.
Position header with attached cleat
facing up. End of header should be
flush with outside of door jambs
confirm 64” between Jambs
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Jamb
Wall Frame
When aligning Jambs
and Header in Steps
21-23, do a dry run first
to confirm spacing. Tack
jambs with only a few
screws initially. Jambs
should be 64” apartment
when measure inside to
inside.
Sink screw 1/4”
deep into jamb

25. Position a Front Top Plate (angle
cut on edge) - 3/4” x 2 1/4” x 65”
(Part 2F) on to top of wall framing. Butt
the straight cut end up to side top plate
and align flush with the inside of door
header. See illustrations below. When
correctly aligned, attach into header
with 4 - 2” screws (Part E).
24. Position one Side Top Plate (angle cut on both ends)
- 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 75” (Part 2E) on top wall framing. Top
plate should be evenly spaced from front to back and
aligned flush with the inside of top wall framing. Attach to
framing with 4 - 2” screws (Part E).
Top Plate aligned flush
with inside of wall framing
On ends, screwing on
slight angle provides
more strength.
Front Top Plate butted
up against Side Top
Plate with angled
edge to outside
Aligned flush
with inside of
Door Header
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28. Attach walls to floor now. Prior to attaching,
check wall and floor alignment. Bottom wall
framing should sit flush with outside of floor joists
with siding overhanging. See Steps 15-20 for
correct alignment.
Confirm Door Jambs are 64” apart at top and
bottom of door opening.
Fasten bottom wall plates to floor using 4 - 2 1/2”
screws (Part B) per wall panel.
Bottom Wall
Framing.
Confirm 64” Wide between Door Jambs
Caulking
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering at
seam.
Caulking not included in
kit.
26. Complete remaining Side and Rear Top Plate
attachments as per Steps 24-25.
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.
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27. Attach front Front Triangular Corner
Brackets - 1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 5 1/2”
(Part 2G) to header and wall frame with
2 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B) per piece.

30. Temporarily attach gable walls to top plate with 2 - 2” screws (Part E). Screw from the bottom
of gable framing down into top plate. Gables may need slight adjustment in Step 40 and then be
completely attached with an additional 6 - 2” screws (Part E). Position 2nd Gable on side walls.
29. Locate and place Gable Wall (Part 2H) so gable framing sits flush with the inside of the top plate.
Center from front to rear using a Straight Edge to confirm angle of gable frame and Top Plate line up.
Adjust gable accordingly. From the outside, make sure gable flashing overhangs wall siding.
Gable Frame
Straight Edge
Gable Flashing
31. Position and temporarily attach 2nd Gable as per Steps 28-29.
Wall Framing
Gable Wall
Temporarily attach gable walls to top plate.
Slight adjustment may be required later
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3. Rafter and Roof Section
Left Roof Panels
- 2 pcs. (Part 3D)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
Roof Rafters
12 pcs.
(Part 3A)
Ridge Boards
2 pcs. (Part 3B)
Soffits - 2 pcs.
(Part 3C)
32. Locate 6 Roof Rafters @ 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45”
(Part 3A), 1 Ridge Board @ 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 70” (Part 3B)
and 1 Soffit @ 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 70” (Part 3C). Evenly space
out Rafters and lay out as illustrated to the left on a flat level
surface.
3/4” thick Ridge Board
1/2” thick Soffit
45” Long Rafters
Right Roof Panels
- 2 pcs. (Part 3E)
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Page 16
Roof Ridge
Caps - 12 pcs.
(Part 3I)
- Filler Shingles - 8 pcs.
(6 @ 16” l & 2 @ 8 1/2” l)
(Parts 3G & 3H)
Roof Facia Cleats
42 pcs. (Part 3F)

33. Attach Ridge Board to ends of both outside rafters with 2 - 2”
screws (Part E) per end. Drill 1/8” pilot holes in Ridge Board to
prevent splitting.
Measure and position interior Rafters as illustrated below. Double up
center rafters and screw together with 2 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B) first.
When positioned correctly, attach Ridge Board to remaining rafters with
2 - 2” screws (Part E) /rafter end.
Ridge Board
Note: Ridge Board
must be aligned to
bottom of rafter end
Important:
Pilot Hole Ridge
Board and Soffit
prior to screwing
to prevent splitting!
Soffit
Ridge Board.
Soffit
35”
17 1/2”
34. Attach end of Soffit Board flush to ends of outside rafters with
2 - 1 1/4” screws (Part C) per rafter end. Drill pilot hole in soffit ends to
prevent splitting. Complete both outside rafter / soffit connections first. Measure
and position interior rafters as illustrated above. When positioned
correctly, attach soffits to remaining rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws (Part C) /rafter.
35. Complete 2nd
Rafter section now
as per Steps 32 - 34.
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Page 17
Double up center rafters
and attach together with
2 - 2 1/2” screws

39. Place 2nd completed rafter section on gable wall framing. Position as per Steps 36 - 38.
Completed rear side Rafters
36. Starting at the rear and with a helper,
flip a completed rafter section over and lift
up and place rafter section on gable wall
framing.
Soffit
38. When rafter section is correctly
positioned, outside rafters will sit
equally on gable framing and soffit will
sit approximately 1/8” to 1/4” away
from wall panels.
37. Slide rafter section up on gable framing until
bottom of ridge board slips into gable notch.
Soffit should sit
approx. 1/4” away
from wall panel
Gable Notch
Ridge Board
Rafter
Rafter should rest
on gable framing
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Page 18

41. With both ridge boards
connected, completely secure gable wall
framing to walls and rafters. Use 3 - 2”
screws (Part E) per Rafter. Use an
additional 6 - 2” screws (Part E) to
secure gable to top plate.
Note- you may have to remove the 2
temporary screws in gable wall from
Step 30 and reposition gable for best
fit prior to completing gable
attachment.
Gable Notch.
Ridge Board
Rafter
40. With ridge board locked into gable notch, align ridge boards so they are flush together and secure
them with 8 - 1 1/4” screws (Part C). Important - if there is a gap between Ridge Boards, try pushing
rear wall and Door Header closer together from outside. Before moving on with further steps, confirm
your shed is square at wall height by checking the diagonal distance of the top walls on the inside. In
both directions, the distance should be approximately 95 1/2” depending on where you measure. It is
important that both diagonal measurements are approximately equal. If not, adjust walls until an equal
distance is achieved.
Screw
Ridge Boards
together with
1 1/4” screws
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Page 19
95 1/2”
42. With walls all square, secure rafters to top wall framing and top plate at the rear with 1 - 3” screw
(Part D) per rafter. Screw through wall frame and top plate at an angle.
Top Wall Framing

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Page 20
45. Carefully pickup and position
outside panel on rafters. Place panel
so it sits flush on 3rd rafter from the
outside (doubled up rafter). Plywood
on roof should be flush with end of
rafter at bottom, and with seam of
doubled up rafters.
46. Screw panel down with 1 - 2 1/2” screws (Part B). Bottom and top row of shingles only.
44. Carefully flip Roof Panels (Parts 3E & 3F)
over so plywood sheathing is facing up. Attach
one Roof/Facia Cleat - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 42”
(Part 3G) onto outside of each outside panel
flush with plywood. Attach with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws
(Part C) evenly spaced. Attach remaining cleats
to panels. The cleat provides for a greater
nailing surface later when you attach side facia.
Roof Plywood flush
with rafter end 1 screw at
bottom row of
shingles only
43. The Roof Gusset 1- 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 48” (Part 3D) is positioned on center rafter. Use level
to square gusset and attach to rafter with 4 - 1 1/4” screws (Part C). Pilot hole Gusset to prevent
splitting. If we required, have a helper(s) push at the front and at the rear near the top of the walls
from the outside of shed until inside to inside measurement between the top plates is 70” before
attaching.
70”