Partner K950 CHAIN Instruction manual

Workshop
Manual
PARTNER
K950 CHAIN

1
1. LITERATURE 2
2. COMPONENTS – ORIENTATION 3
3. SPECIAL FUNCTION PARTS 4
4. REPLACEMENT OF CHAIN/BAR 5
5. CHAIN TENSIONING 8
6. CLUTCH 9
7. CLUTCH DRUM, CHAIN TENSIONER 12
8. CHAIN TENSIONER 13
9. BAR ATTACHMENT 14
10. BAR STUD, HANDLE 15
11. CHAIN 16
CONTENTS Page
PARTNER
K 950 CHAIN
108 89 38-26

LITERATURE1
2
Workshop manual
A complete manual for service and repair of
the Partner K950 Chain consists of two
workshop handbooks.
Workshop manual K950 CHAIN
This encompasses measures that are specific
to the K950 Chain, such as servicing of the
chain, the bar and the drive system.
Workshop manual POWER CUTTERS
This covers measures that are the same for
all machines featuring the same engine as
the K950 Chain.
This manual also deals with all petrol-
powered cutting machines featuring a
centre-driven blade.
Structure – text and illustrations
In addition to photographs and drawings,
there are usually two columns of text. The
column on the left is brief and is intended
for the experienced mechanic, while the
column on the right is more detailed and is
aimed at the mechanic with less experience
of power cutters.
List of contents
The manual is divided into numbered
chapters and chapter headings that are
shown in bold type at the top of each page.
The list of contents also has the page
references for the start of each chapter.
Spare parts
Spare parts, K950 CHAIN
This folder includes comprehensive skeleton
drawings of the entire machine, allowing
the clear identification of each component’s
position, part number and appearance.
PARTNER
Workshop
Manual
K950 CHAIN
PARTNER
Workshop
Manual
108 89 38-26

COMPONENTS – ORIENTATION 2
3
Components
The machine has the following
specific components.
1. Bar, 14 inches
2. Diamond-tipped cutting chain,
32 diamond links.
Link length 3/8 inch.
Link width 5.72 mm
3. Counterhold/wear protector
9
11
1
2
3
4
6
7
8
10
9. Hand guard with counterhold
10. Counterhold/wear protector
11. Lever for chain tensioning and
locking the bar
12. Nut with flange for locking the
bar
13. Counterhold screw for securing
the bar
14. Cover panel with lock for
counterhold screw
4. Hand guard with counterhold
5. Lever for chain tensioning
6. Splash guard
7. Water connection with quick-
release coupling
8. Water valve
5
Old version
New version
15. Lever for chain tensioning and
locking the bar
16. Lock spring for securing
castellated nut position in the
lever
17. Flange, adjustable castellated nut
for locking the bar
12
14
13
16 17
15

SPECIAL FUNCTION PARTS3
4
Water ducts
Water flow/lubrication
Water is led from the bar attachment’s water
duct (A) to the bar (B) and is channelled via
ducts in the bar to nozzles under the chain and
to the nose sprocket bearing.
Blocked ducts can easily be cleaned with
steel wire or some other pointed tool.
Chain tensioning
Chain tensioning without tools
The K950 Chain is designed so that chain ten-
sion can be quickly adjusted without the need
for tools. The lever has three functions:
1. The bar is fastened in place
2. The bar can slide in its attachment
3. Press down the lever and the bar is pushed
forward and tensions the chain. Returning
to position 1 locks the bar.
Function
When the lever is pressed down, the cam disc
(A) in the chain tensioner rotates up against
the bar tensioning lug (B), which engages in
the bar and pushes it forward.
Locking the bar
The bar is locked in position by moving the
lever upward – lock nut (C) is tightened against
the bar stud (D) and secures the bar in place.
IMPORTANT!
The bar is subjected to considerable force
during cutting. It is therefore important that
the counterhold screw (E) is tightened all the
way to the end so it securely locks the bar and
prevents it from moving. When the rubber
cover is pressed into place, this locks the coun-
terhold screw.
Old version New version Flange nut
The thickness of the bar varies owing to manu-
facturing tolerances and wear. The position of
the nut in the flange must therefore be
adjusted every now and again.
In the old version, the bar nut (A) is screwed
tight onto the flange (B) with the nut (C). This
is removed in order to change the bar nut’s
position in the flange.
In the new version, the bar nut is adjusted
without the use of tools. Press down the lock
spring (D) and rotate the castellated nut (E) to
a suitable setting.
ABC
AB
1 2 3
A
C
D
E
B
D
E

REPLACEMENT OF CHAIN/BAR 4
5
IMPORTANT
Rim sprocket and chain always replaced together
Both the chain and its rim sprocket are subject to wear.
It is therefore important to always fit a new drive gear when
replacing the chain. Used chains are stored and fitted together
with their respective rim sprockets.
The rim sprocket and chain must always be fitted in the same
direction of rotation
One simple way of keeping track of the direction of rotation is
to always fit the rim sprocket with the text facing out. Mark the
direction of the chain’s rotation.
Turn the bar when replacing the chain
The bar always wears most where the chain is in contact during
cutting, usually on the bar’s underside. Turn the bar around when
replacing the chain so as to ensure more even bar wear.
Remove the chain guard
Undo the rubber cover.
Unscrew the counterhold screw a few
turns.
Release the handle and move the
lever down and to the rear.
Remove the chain guard
Undo the rubber cover.
Unscrew the counterhold
screw a few turns.
Move the lever down and to
the rear.
Old version
Lift up the flange from the lever and
unscrew it fully from the bar stud.
New version
Press down the lock spring (A) and
unscrew the castellated nut (B).
Old version
Remove the flange.
New version
Press down the lock spring (A)
and unscrew the castellated
nut (B).
Remove the cover. Remove the cover by pulling the entire
unit upward.
Lift out the chain and bar
It is simplest to lift out the chain and
bar as a single unit.
Lift out the chain and bar
B
A

REPLACEMENT OF CHAIN/BAR4
6
Rim sprocket
Remove the rim sprocket
Remove the lock ring.
Press the lock ring halves out
of the groove.
Rim sprocket
Remove the rim sprocket
Twist the lock ring out of its groove
with a screwdriver. Hold with your
fingers to prevent it from flying off.
Press the lock ring halves out of the
groove.
The support cup is pushed down over
an O-ring. Rock the support cup side-
ways several times to remove it.
Remove the O-ring with a screw-
driver or similar tool.
Raise the rim sprocket and replace
with a new item.
Used chain/rim sprocket
If a used chain is to be refitted, its
own rim sprocket must also be re-
fitted.
Same direction of rotation
The rim sprocket and chain must
have the same direction of rotation
as when they were fitted new.
Check wear
Check that the rim sprocket and the
lugs in the clutch drum are not worn.
Replace with a new rim sprocket or
new clutch drum if wear is as shown
in the illustrations.
Check wear
Replace with a new rim
sprocket or new clutch drum
if wear is as shown in the
illustrations.
Fit rim sprocket
Put the rim sprocket in place and fit
the O-ring.
Grease the O-ring. This aids installa-
tion and removal of the support cup
the next time. Turn the support cup
until the fits in place. Slide in the
lock ring halves.
Press down the lock ring with the
help of the combination spanner that
is included with the machine, or use
a 13 mm socket wrench.
Fit rim sprocket
Put the rim sprocket in place
with text facing upward.
Fit the O-ring and grease it.
Fit the support cup.
Slide in the lock ring halves.
Press down the lock ring with
the help of the combination
spanner or a 13 mm socket
wrench.
Rock the support cup side-
ways to remove it.
Remove the O-ring.
Raise the rim sprocket and
replace with a new item.
Same direction of rotation
When fitting a used chain
and rim sprocket, ensure that
they have the same direction
of rotation as when they
were fitted new.

REPLACEMENT OF CHAIN/BAR 4
7
Fit the chain
Fit the bar and chain.
Fit the chain
Place the machine upright.
Place the chain in the bar and fit it
on the rim sprocket.
New chain
When a new chain has been fitted,
the bar tensioning lug must be
adjusted to its rearmost position.
New chain
Adjust the bar tensioning lug
to its rearmost position.
Fit the cover
Old version:
Position the cover. Fit the flange,
tighten the screws and lift into the
lever.
New version:
Press down the lock spring and fit
the castellated nut, tighten slightly.
Tension the chain as described in
chapter 5.
Adjust the lock-nut
When upright, the lever should lock
the bar. If the tensioning force is in-
correct, the flange nut is tightened as
follows:
Old version
1. Lift up the flange from the lever
and tighten it firmly until the bar is
securely locked.
2. Mark the nut in line with the
cover’s contour.
3. Remove the flange and undo the
nut and rubber seal.
4. Rotate the bar nut so that the
mark lines up with the arm. Fit the
seal and nut, tighten.
Adjust the lock-nut
When upright, the lever
should lock the bar. If it does
not, adjust as follows:
Old version
1. Tighten the flange until
the bar is securely locked.
2. Mark the nut in line with
the cover’s contour.
3. Remove the flange and
undo the nut at the back.
4. Rotate the bar nut so that
the mark lines up with the
arm. Fit the seal and nut,
tighten.
Fit the cover
Old version:
Position the cover. Fit the
flange and lift into the lever.
Tension the chain.
New version:
Press down the lock spring and
fit the castellated nut, tight-
en slightly. Tension the chain
as described in chapter 5.
New version
Adjust the lever’s locking position
every time the cover is fitted.Press
down the lock spring (A) and tighten
the castellated nut (B). Tighten light-
ly by hand.
Check that the castellated nut is in
the right position in the lock spring
by moving the lever upward, in line
with the cover’s contour where it
should lock the bar.
If it does not, adjust the castellated
nut. Move the lever to the horizontal
position and choose another hole in
the castellated nut.
New version
Press down the lock spring
(A) and lightly hand-tighten
the castellated nut (B).
Check that the castellated
nut is in the right position in
the lock spring by moving
the lever upward, where it
should lock the bar.
1. 2.
3. 4.
Old version New version
A
B

IMPORTANT!
Lower chain tension compared with chain saw for forestry
operations
A new chain should have a certain amount of play in the middle
of the bar, corresponding roughly to the height of a drive link.
With a new chain, adjustment should be performed after about
5 minutes of use.
A run-in chain should be checked after about 10 minutes of cutting,
and should be adjusted when play exceeds 15 mm.
CHAIN TENSIONING5
8
Chain tensioning
Chain tensioning is performed in two
stages and is secured in the third
stage.
1. Tension the chain
Open the rubber cover.
Press down the lever – the bar slides
forward and the chain is tensioned.
2. Lock the bar
Grasp the bar and hold it up.
Drag the lever to the upper setting
where the bar is locked.
NOTE:
The bar should be locked somewhat
before the lever’s mechanical stopper.
Otherwise adjust as per the previous
page.
3. Secure the chain’s tension
Tighten the metal screw all the way
until it stops (white arrow).
Close the cover over the counterhold
screw. The counterhold screw is now
locked in position.
Check that chain tension is correct
before using the machine.

CLUTCH 6
9
Removal
Remove the chain and bar.
Pull out the clutch drum.
Removal
Remove the chain and bar as per the
instructions in chapter 4.
Pull out the clutch drum.
Remove the filter housing and
unscrew the spark plug.
Remove the filter housing
and unscrew the spark plug
Place piston stopper 502 54 15-01 in
the spark plug hole.
It is also possible to use the starter
pullcord, which is inserted through
the spark plug hole when the piston
is at bottom dead centre.
Place the piston stopper in
the spark plug hole.
Special tool 502 54 04-02 is used to
remove the clutch.
Use the special tool to remove
the clutch.
NOTE
The clutch has a left-hand thread.
Place the tool as in the picture and
rotate clockwise to remove the
clutch.
The clutch is marked with the
direction of removal. (This side
should face outward upon
installation.)
NOTE
The clutch has a left-hand
thread.
Rotate clockwise to remove
the clutch.
The clutch is marked with the
direction of removal. (This
side should face outward
upon installation.)
502 54 15-01
502 54 04-02

CLUTCH6
10
Wear limits
Clutch shoes
The height of the clutch shoes’ chamfered section
should not be less than 1 mm. If necessary, replace
the complete clutch. Never replace individual shoes
by taking shoes from another clutch – this causes
imbalance.
Clutch drum
The clutch drum’s inner diameter should not exceed
79.8 mm. If necessary, replace with a new clutch drum.
Check the clutch components
Clean the clutch and check that there are no visible
faults. Check the condition of the springs.
Remove/install
Remove springs
Secure the clutch in a vice with the
outside facing upward.
Place a large screwdriver or mandrel
against the spring hook. A light tap
with the hand on the screwdriver/
mandrel will cause the spring hook
to disengage, as shown in the picture.
Remove/install
Remove springs
Secure the clutch in a vice
with the outside facing
upward.
Place a large screwdriver or
mandrel against the spring
hook. A light tap with the
hand on the screwdriver/
mandrel will cause the spring
hook to disengage, as shown
in the picture.
Now press the spring out of its
attachment with a mandrel or similar
tool. Repeat this procedure with the
other two springs. The clutch can
then be dismantled in its various
component parts.
Press the spring out of its
attachment. Repeat this
procedure with the other
two springs
Fit clutch shoes
First fit the spring in that part of the
clutch shoe with the narrower recess.
NOTE
Turn the springs as shown in the
illustration. The spring hooks should
all point in the same direction as the
word “Off”.
Fit springs
Turn the clutch with the inside facing
up, i.e. with the word “Off” facing
down.
Use a pointed tool such as an awl to
manoeuvre the spring into its attach-
ment.
 ≤79,8 mm
≥1,0 mm

CLUTCH 6
11
Lubrication duct
Check that the lubrication
duct for the clutch drum’s
needle bearing is open.
Clean if blocked.
Lubrication duct
Check that the lubrication duct for
the clutch drum’s needle bearing is
open. If it is blocked, clean it with
steel wire.
Fit the clutch
Text facing out
Fit the clutch with the side featuring
the word “Off” facing out.
Counter-clockwise for installation
Turn the clutch counter-clockwise by
hand until it bottoms.
Fit the clutch
Text facing out
Fit the clutch with the side
featuring the word “Off”
facing out.
Counter-clockwise for
installation
Rotate the clutch counter-
clockwise by hand until it
bottoms.
Tighten the clutch
Piston stopper 502 54 15-01 must be
in the spark plug hole.
Use tool 502 54 04-02 to tighten the
clutch. Rotate the tool counter-clock-
wise. The correct tightening torque is
30–40 Nm.
Tighten the clutch
The piston stopper must be
in the spark plug hole.
Turn the special tool counter-
clockwise, tightening torque
30–40 Nm.
Refitting
Remove the piston stopper.
Refit the spark plug and air filter.
Lubricate the clutch drum’s needle
bearing with oil and put the clutch
drum in place.
Fit the chain, bar and cover.
Adjust chain tension according to the
instructions in the previous chapter.
Refitting
Remove the piston stopper.
Refit the spark plug and air
filter.
Lubricate the clutch drum’s
needle bearing with oil, then
install.
Fit the chain, bar and cover.
Adjust chain tension.

CLUTCH DRUM, CHAIN TENSIONER7
12
Chain tensioner
Removal
Remove the cover panel.
Chain tensioner
Removal
Remove the cover panel’s three
screws.
Components – alignment
Note in particular the threaded
insert’s position (encircled) in the
chassis. The marking on the insert
should be turned upward, facing the
same direction as the bar lug.
Components – alignment
Note the threaded insert’s
position in the chassis –
marking upward.
Clutch drum
Remove needle bearing
The needle bearing is pressed into
place most easily using a vice.
Place an object measuring 14.5 mm
in diameter against the bearing. The
hexagonal head of an M8 bolt is a
perfect fit. Support the inside of the
drum with a socket, about 21 mm.
Press out the bearing using a vice.
Clutch drum
Remove needle bearing
Place an object measuring
14.5 mm in diameter against
the bearing. The hexagonal
head of an M8 bolt is a per-
fect fit. Support the inside of
the drum with a socket,
about 21 mm. Press out the
bearing using a vice.
Fit needle bearing
Make a simple tool for fitting the
needle bearing. Use a short bolt,
M10, with its nut, and at the very
end place a washer that has a larger
outer diameter than the bearing. A
few turns of tape over the bolt’s
thread will protect the bearing from
damage and will centre it.
Fit the bearing using the vice as in
the picture. Press in the bearing so it
is flush with the clutch drum – the
washer will ensure that it is pressed
in to the correct level.
Lubricate the bearing with a few
drops of oil before refitting the drum
on the crankshaft.
Fit needle bearing
Make a simple tool for fitting
the needle bearing. Use a
short bolt, M10, with its nut.
Place at the very end a
washer that has a larger
outer diameter than the
bearing. Tape over the bolt’s
thread.
Press the bearing into place
flush with the clutch drum –
the washer will ensure that it
is pressed in to the correct
level.
Lubricate the bearing with
oil.

CHAIN TENSIONER 8
13
Tensioning screw – two versions:
Old version
The tensioning screw does not have
a support bearing or marking in the
threaded insert. When fitting, the
screw should be turned so it fits in
the deeper setting (arrow facing the
same direction as the bar tensioning
lug).
New version
The tensioning screw has a support
bearing (A) to locate the screw more
effectively. The threaded insert has a
marking (B) that should face upward
during fitting.
The new version also fits older
machines.
Remove the lever
Lift out the cam disc to access the
screw that secures the lever.
Remove the screw.
Remove the lever
Lift out the cam disc.
Remove the screw.
Lift the locking washer to one side so
it can be removed from the lever’s
groove.
When refitting:
Note that the locking washer has a
recess that must face towards the
screw head.
Lift the locking washer to
one side so it can be removed
from the lever’s groove.
Lift out the lever.
Refitting:
Grease the lever’s contact surface
with the cover.
Lift out the lever.
Refitting:
Grease the lever’s contact
surface with the cover.
Grease the mechanism.
Grease the mechanism thoroughly
when refitting, primarily to protect it
from water and dirt.
Grease the mechanism.
Tensioning screw – two
versions:
Old version
There is no marking in the
tensioning screw. Fit as in the
illustration – arrow pointing
towards the bar tensioning lug.
New version
Turn the threaded insert’s
marking (B) upward. The new
version also fits older machines.
BA

BAR ATTACHMENT9
14
Bar attachment
Removal
Remove the two screws as in
the picture.
Bar attachment
This is removed to:
– Access the pipe/duct that supplies
water to the bar.
– Replace the counterhold/wear
protector
– Replace the splash guard
Removal
Remove the two screws as in the
picture.
Water duct
The marked screw keeps the pipe in
place. Remove it.
Twist the pipe and pull it out of the
bar attachment.
The easiest way to clean a blocked
water duct is with compressed air
(use protective goggles) or with steel
wire.
Water duct
Remove the marked screw
that secures the pipe.
Twist the pipe and pull it out
of the bar attachment.
The easiest way to clean a
blocked water duct is with
compressed air (use protective
goggles) or with steel wire.
Splash guard
This is removed by pressing out
the two attachment points with a
mandrel.
The rear attachment point is turned
up using a screwdriver.
Splash guard
Press out the two attachment
points with a mandrel.
The rear attachment point is
turned up using a screwdriver.
Wear protector/counterhold
Picture on the left: turn up the two
attachments.
Middle picture: when replacing the
wear protector, the simplest way is to
cut the upper and lower attachments
with a pair of pliers.
Fit as in the picture on the right.
First fit the wear protector in the
middle of the bar attachment.
Pull in the outer attachment points
with a pair of pliers. A little grease
makes fitting easier.
Wear protector/counterhold
Picture on the left: turn up
the two attachments.
Middle picture: when re-
placing the wear protector,
cut the upper and lower
attachments.
Picture on the right.
First fit the wear protector in
the middle.
Pull in the outer attach-
ment points with a pair of
pliers. Grease makes fitting
easier.

BAR STUD, HANDLE 10
15
Bar stud
Removal
The bar stud is secured from
the inside, behind the silencer.
Remove the silencer.
Unscrew the hexagonal-head
screws that secure the bar stud.
Note the protective panel’s
direction when refitting the
silencer.
Bar stud
Removal
The bar stud is secured from the
inside, behind the silencer.
Hand guard
The hand guard and the water valve
form a single integrated unit. The
entire unit is replaced if the water
valve is defective or if the hand guard
is damaged.
Removal
The hand guard is attached to the
handle with two screws.
Hand guard
The hand guard and the
water valve form a single
integrated unit.
Removal
Remove the two screws in
the handle.
Push the hand guard forward to
release it from the curved handle
shield.
Push the hand guard forward.
Hoses
Remove the hoses from the hand
guard by cutting them with a pair of
pliers as in the illustration.
New hose clamps are fitted as shown
in the small picture on the right.
Note: A complete hand guard
assembly with attached water valve
and fitted hose is available as a spare
part.
Hoses
Use a pair of pliers for
removal and fitting.
Note: a complete hand guard
assembly with attached water
valve and fitted hose is avail-
able as a spare part.
Remove the silencer.
Unscrew the hexagonal-head screws
that secure the bar stud.
Note the protective panel’s direction
when refitting the silencer.
Wear protector
Removal
Remove the screw.
Press the wear protector upward and
to the side.
Wear protector
Removal
Remove the screw.
Press the wear protector
upward and to the side.
Removal
Fitting

CHAIN11
16
Chain repair
To repair a broken chain or replace a link with a
snapped diamond tip, two tools are needed:
Chain breaker (531 01 27-11)
The chain breaker is used to press the rivets out of
the chain. The rivet anvil has grooves for chains of
different dimensions.
Riveter (531 01 27-12)
The riveter is used to press the new rivet to the
correct shape.
(The tools are identical to those used for repairing
chains for forestry operations. The tools come with
detailed user instructions.)
Repair kits
There are two types of repair kit:
531 10 11-95 (Dimas), used to repair a broken chain.
Supplied in packs of 5.
531 10 11-94 (Dimas), used to replace broken
diamond tip.
531 01 27-11
531 10 11-94531 10 11-95
531 01 27-12
Breaking the chain
Place the chain on the rivet anvil in
the groove marked 3/8.
Place the chain with the rivet to be
broken exactly under the punch. Pull
down the handle to press out the
rivets from the upper side link.
Remove the lower side link.
The arrows in the picture here show
which rivets must be broken when
repairing a broken chain or broken
diamond tip.
Fit new parts
Fit the new parts. Note the marking
(A) in the middle of each link, which
should face outward. (There are vari-
ations in the markings used.)
The O-rings that are fitted between
the links in the factory-fitted chain
are not to be reused when the chain
is repaired.
Rivet the chain
Place the chain in the support wheel.
Centre the chain’s rivet head between
the counterhold and the spinner.
Apply a few drops of oil to the
rivet head/spinner.
Press the rivet head by rotating
the crank at the same time as the
counterhold is slowly pulled.
Continue until the rivet head
assumes the same shape as the rest
of the chain’s rivets.
A

108 89 38-26
English
ARNE PALMQUIST