Pfaff 130-6 User manual

INSTRUCTION
BOOK
PFAFF
130-6

Instruction book
for
the
PFAFF
Sewing Machine
(Model
130)
For
best
results, study
these
instructions
carefully—par
licularly
those
ports
on
the
core
of
the
machine.
Before
leoving
the
factory
your
PFAFF
was
adjusted,
carefully
tested,
and
found
to
be
perfect
in
every
respect.
If
you
follow
the
simple
suggestions
outlined here,
you
will
enjoy
your
PFAFF...
find
it
endlessly
useful
...
and,
through-out
the
years
be
glad
that
your
choice
is
the
finest
sewing machine
in
the
world.
I. Useful
hinis
to
help
you
get
the
best
results
with
your
PFAFF
Use
fine
thread
and
a
fine
needle
adjusted
for
loose
tension
when sewing
thin,
light
fabrics.
For
ordinary
lock
stitch
or
zigzag
seams,
regulate
the
tension
so that
the
interlacing
of
upper
and
under
threads
takes
place
in
the
center
of
the
stitching.
For
making
buttonholes,
stitching
on
buttons,
eyeletting,
rolling
seams,
and
hemstitching, the tension
of
the
under
thread
should
be
somewhat
tight,
since
it
is
desirable
to
hove
the
threads
interlock
more
toward
the
underside
of
the
fabric.
Use
unglazed
thread
for
ordinary
sewing,
and
soft
yarn
for
embroidering,
darning,
etc.
Since
these
yarns
are
smoother and
more
flexible
than
the
hard
and
brittle
glazed
cotton, they
assure
well-drawn-in
stitches,
thus
protecting
the
seams
when the
fabric
is
washed.
Skipping
of stitches
may
be
caused
by:
1.
Needle
not
having
been
inserted
properly.
2.
Using
other
than
the
recommended
PFAFF
Needles.
3.
Needle
being
bent
by
wrong
handling,
or
too
fine
for
the
thread
used.

Thread
breaking
may
be caused
by:
1. Any
of
the
three
reasons
mentioned above.
2. Tension
too
tight.
3.
Using
bad
or
knotty
thread.
Bad
stitches
may
be
caused as
a
result
of:
1.
Tensions
being
too
loose
or
too
tight.
Both
tensions
should
be
equal.
2.
Using
needles and
threads
that
do
not
conform
to
the
thickness
of
the
fabric.
Top
and
bottom
thread
should
be
the
same.
3.
Fluff
having
accumulated
between
the
upper
tension
discs,
or
underneath
the tension
spring
of
the
bobbin
case.
Heavy
working
of
the machine
may
be caused
by:
1.
The
motor belt
having
become
too
loose
after
con
stant
use,
therefore,
not
pulling
properly.
In
that
case,
the
motor
bracket
has
to be
adjusted.
2.
The
motor
belt
being
too
tight.
Do
not
over-tighten
it.
3.
The
shuttle
race
being
obstructed
by
fluff,
which
must
be
removed.
4.
The
machine having
become
clogged.
Note
the
fol
lowing
instructions
for
proper
oiling
and
cleaning.
IL
To
oil
and
clean the
machine
Apply
rust-proof
grease
on all
nickel-plated and
polished
ports.
This
done,
all
greased
parts
should
be
cleaned
with
a
clean
rag.
Then,
apply
a
little
PFAFF-Sew
ing
Machine
Oil
at
the
oiling
points
marked
with
arrows
in
Figures
1,
2,
and
3.
g.
2
3

Fig.
2
1
Fig.
3
5.
4

After
raising the
presser foot,
run
the
machine
for
a
little
while
without
thread,
wipe
off
the
down-dripping
oil
and apply
a
drop
of
PFAFF
Sewing
Machine
Oil
to
all
points
where there
is
friction.
Make
it
a
rule
to
clean
and
oil
the machine
from
time
to
time,
especially
when
it
has
been
in
constant
use,
or
has
not
been
used
for
ci
long
time.
VERY
IMPORTANT:
Before
using
the
machine
for
the
first
time,
apply
to
the hook a
drop
of
PFAFF
Sewing
Machine
Oil.
Keep the
oil
can
clean.
The
needle
plate
should
be
token
off
frequently
and
cleaned
of
accumulated
fluff
on
the
underside.
Ill.
The
needle
If
the
needle
is
inserted
incorrectly, the
top
thread
will
jam
in
the hook,
and
tear.
The
correct
way
to
install
the
needle
is
with
the
flat
of
the
shank
toward
the
hand
lift.
In
general,
follow
this
simple
rule:
Use
a
finer
needle
for
finer
thread
and
a
heavier
needle
for
heavier
thread.
IV.
Feeding
If
the
material does
not
feed
(move), turn
presser
bar
pressure
screw
to
the right
to
increase
the
pressure.
There
should
be
as
little
pressure as
possible
on
the
presser
bar—use
just
enough
to
feed
the
material.
Too
much
pressure causes excessive
wear
in
feeder
and
foot.
When
in
doubt,
call
in
qualified
PFAFF
mechanic.
IMPORTANT—When
inserting a
new
needle,
make
sure
that
the
needle
thumb
screw
is
loose
enough to
permit
you to
slide
the
needle
all
the
way
up
to
the
stop
pin,
then
tighten
the
thumb
screw.
If
the
needle
is
not
inserted
in
this
way,
it
will
cause
SKIPPING
of
stitches,
and
pos
sible
needle
breakage.
1.
Threading
the
needle
Put
spool
on
spindle,
draw
through
hook
guide
1,
around
circular
guide
2,
around
the
tension
discs
3,
and
through
check
spring
4,
around guides
5
and
6,
and
into
the
lower
hole
of the
take-up
7,
down
through
thread
guide
8
into
guide
above
the
needle
9—and
thread
needle
from
front
to
back.
(Fig.
4).
2.
To
set the
needle
LOOSEN lock
screw
above
needle
clamp.
Insert
needle
with
flat
shank
to
back,
tighten
lock
screw—and
youre
ready
to sew.
3.
To
remove
bobbin
case
(Fig.
5)
Turn
the machine
back
on
its
hinges.
Open
latch
in
bobbin
case
by
grasping
latch
between
thumb
and
fore
finger
(it
is
easier
with
the
left
hand)—and
pull.
The
bobbin
case
comes
right
out.
To
remove
the
bobbin,
release
latch
again
and
the
bobbin
will
drop
right
out.
Practice
a
few
times,
so
as
to
get
used
to
this
operation.
4.
To
wind
the
bobbin
(Fig.
6)
For
beginners
it
is
suggested
that
the
balance
wheel
be
disconnected
so
that
the
machine
will
not
turn.
For
experienced
operators,
the
balance
wheel
can
remain
connected
if
desired
so
that
a
bobbin
can
be
wound
while
sewing
on
a
garment.
Wind
thread
around
the
bobbin
acouple of
times
away
from
you.
Place
bobbin
on
winder
spindle
so
that
the
single
slot
fits
into
the
pin
in
the
side
of the
winder
spindle.
Place
spool
of
thread
1 on
either
spool
holder
(1).
Draw
thread
down
between
tension
disc
2
to
the
bobbin
placed
on
winder
spindle
3.
Press
down
on
winder catch
4
to
lock
bobbin
in
winding
position.
Now
you
are
ready
to
wind
bobbin.
Turn
on
power
until
bobbin
is
wound.
If
you
do
not
wish
to
wind
the
bobbin
to
capacity,
press
winder
disconnect lever
5.
When
bobbin
is
full,
release
is
automatic.
6
7

9
I
(
a
\
‘4
Fig.
4
Fig.
5
8

5.
To
replace
bobbin
case
(Fig.
7)
Slip
bobbin
into
bobbin
case,
and
draw
the
thread
through
the
bobbin
case
slot
1,
away
from
you,
under
tension
spring
2.
Turn
machine
bock
on
its
hinges
expos
ing
base
for
bobbin
case.
With
bobbin
case
latch
opened,
between
thumb
and
forefinger,
slip
bobbin
into
center
hook
and
drop
latch
back.
Push
down
bobbin
case
with
thumb to
make
sure
that
case
is
locked
in
position.
Fig.
7
6.
To
commence
sewing
IMPORTANT—Turn
wheel
towards
you
to
pick-up
bobbin
thread.
Allow
needle to
descend
and
rise
once.
The
under
thread
then
appears
in
the
form
of a
loop
out
of
the
needle
hole.
Then
lower
presser
foot
by
means
of
presser
foot
lever.
Draw
both
upper
and lower
thread
ends
under
the
presser
foot, and
to
the
rear.
Fig.
6
10
11

To
protect
presser foot
and feed,
never
operate
machine
without
placing
fabric
under the
presser
foot.
With
the
cloth
inserted
and the
presser
foot
lowered,
turn
the balance
wheel
toward
you.
At the
same
time,
give
a
slight
pressure
with
your knee
against
the knee
control—or
against
the foot
control
on
some
portable
models.
7.
To
remove
the
work
Stop the machine.
Turn the
balance
wheel
toward
you
until
the take-up
(see section
on
threading
the needle)
is
at its highest
point.
(Or
turn the
wheel to complete
the
stitch.)
Raise
presser
foot. (On
lifting
the, presser foot,
the
tension
is
automatically released.)
Draw
the
cloth
to
the rear
of the
needle.
Cut the
thread
close to
the
material
on the thread
cutter.
8.
To regulate
the
tension of
the
upper
thread
The
tension
of the upper
thread
is regulated
by
means
of tension
nut
(M),
(Fig.
4).
Turning
this
screw
clockwise,
the
tension
will become tighter.
Unscrewing
it,
counter
clockwise,
it will
become
looser.
Having
adjusted
the
tension
for
a
certain
kind
of
thread,
(you
con
best
judge
this
tension
for
yourself
by
pulling
the thread
gently
with
your
hand
when you
have
threaded
the machine
through
the tension
spring),
lust
glance
at
the number
marked
in the bell
behind
the ten
sion
nut, and
note its
relative
position.
If
the
upper tension
is
too loose,
the under
thread
will
pull
down
the
upper
thread,
forming
little
knots or
loops
as shown
in Fig.
8.
If
the upper
tension
is too
tight,
the
under
thread
is
drawn
up,
as
illustrated
in Fig.
9 Fig.
10
shows the
locking
in
the
two threads
in
the
center
of
the
material,
as a
result of
the
proper
adjustment
of
both
tensions.
If the
tension
is
too
loose,
take
the bobbin
case
out
of
the machine
(Fig.
5),
and tighten the
small
tension
screw
(Z)
in a
clockwise
direction
with
the
aid
of
the
screw
driver.
If
the tension
is too
tight,
unscrew
it
in
a
counter
clockwise
direction.
(Fig.
11).
10. To
regulate
the
length
of stitch
The
length of the
stitches
is
regulated
by
the
stitch
regulator
screw.
(Fig.
6). In
the
zero—(or
neutral)—
posi
tion,
there
is
no
feeding
at
all.
The
numbers
above
zero
ore
for
forward
stitching; the
space
below
for
reverse
stitching.
Fig.
9
Fig.
10
9.
To
regulate
tension
of the
under thread
12
13

Loosen
regulator
screw, and
push
up
to
desired
posi
tion
from
1 to
5. Position one
is
the
smallest
stitch.
When
you
have
chosen the size
of
stitch
you
want,
tighten
the
screw. To sew
in reverse,
simply push
the
locked
screw
downward,
below
position
zero.
It
will
automatically
sew
the
same
size
stitch
in
reverse.
11. The
Dial-A-Stitch
If
the
nose
of
the
Dial-A-Stitch
lever
(G),
(Fig.
12),
is
on
point
zero
of the
scale, the
machine
is
performing
the
straight
stitch.
If
you
turn
the
lever,
(0), to
the
left, the
machine is
doing the zigzag
stitch.
The
width
of
the
zig
zag
stitch
is increased
as the
lever, (0),
is turned
to the
left,
bringing
the width of
the
zigzag
stitch
up
to
a
maximum
of
11/64”.
If
lever
H (Fig.
12)
is
pressed against
the
body
of
the
machine,
and
then
shifted
down
into
position II,
the
ma
chine
will
sew to
the
right
of
the
stitch
made
in the
nor
mal
posifion. In
position Ill,
it
will
sew
still
farther
to
the
right,
continuing
the
same
kind
of stitch
for
which
the
dial
is
set.
This
is useful
for
applique,
fancy
stitching,
straight
sewing,
embroidery,
buttonholes,
and
sewing on
buttons.
If
the
machine
is not
running,
the
shifting procedure
should
not
be made,
or
the
size
of
the
zigzag
stitch
should
not be
changed,
unless
the
needle
is raised.
Other
wise,
the
needle
might
be
bent
or
broken.
12.
To
fake
apart
and
clean
the
hook
(Fig.
13)
If pieces
of
thread,
lint or
dust
have
gotten
inside
the
hook,
impeding
the action
of
the
machine,
it
is
necessary
Fig.
11
Fig.
12
14
15

to
remove
the upper and lower parts
of
the
bobbin
case.
Turn the
balance
wheel
so as
to
see
clearly screws E-1,
E-2, and E-3.
Unscrew
these, and
take
off the hook bow.
NOTE:
Since
these
screws
are extremely
small,
it
is
necessary
to use great
care
so
as
not to
lose
them.
Grasp
center
hook
between
thumb
and forefinger,
and
turn
the
balance
wheel
gently
until
the lower
case
slips
out.
Clear out
the dirt with a
cloth,
and
put a
drop
of
oil
on the running surface
under
the case.
Replace lower
bobbin
case.
Do
not force
ii, as
it
will damage
the part.
Replace
the hook
bow, and screw
the
three
screws
back
into
position.
If
this
is
difficult, do
not force
it—call
for
your
mechanic.
Parts
damaged
by
force
will
not be
replaced
free of
charge.
13. To
regulate
pressure
of
the
presser
foot
Screw
or
unscrew the
bushing
(V),
(Fig.
4),
to
increase
or
decrease
pressure
of
the
presser
foot,
and
to
regulate
it
for
the type
of
material
used.
14.
Adjusting
the
tension
of
the
thread
controller
spring
For embroidering
and
darning,
ease
the
tension
of
the
thread
controller
spring
a
little
more
than
in
the
case
of
sewing. When
working
on thick
or
hard
materials,
the
tension
should
be
tighter.
To
tighten
the tension,
turn the
lever
of the
tension
sleeve
as
shown
in
Fig.
4.
a)
indicating
the
position
for
darning
and
embroidering;
b)
indicating
the normal
position;
c)
indicating
the position
for sewing
thick
and
hard
materials.
The direction
for
turning
the lever
is
indicated
by
“L”
for loose
(light),
and
“F”
for
fast
(tight).
15. The
needle
Make
sure
that
you
use the
PFAFF
needles
designed
for your
machine—Needle
Series
130
R.
These
are
finely
machined,
tempered
and
polished
steel,
and are
avail
able in
sizes
7
to
11,
for
the
most
delicate
to
the
heaviest
sewing.
16.
To
lower
the
feed
For
darning
and embroidering,
the
feed
can be
lowered
by turning
the
knob
(X),
(Fig.
6), on
the front
right-hand
side
of
the
bed
plate.
Turn
it
right to
lower
the
feed;
turn
it
left to
raise
the
feed.
Fig.
13
16

NO
ATTACHMENTS
ARE
NEEDED
for all
normal sewing
and
most types
of
fancy
sewing.
The PFAFF
comes
equip
ped with
a hinged
presser
foot.
No.
44088 (Fig.
14),
which
is
used
for
these
purposes.
This should
remain
on your
machine
most
of the
time.
To
remove it,
loosen
the screw,
and
lift
presser
foot out
to the
left.
To replace
it,
slip it
back
into
position, holding
it
firmly
in place
between
the
thumb
and
forefinger
of the
right
hand and
tighten
the
screw.
n
44088
For plain sewing the
stan.
dard
type
of presser foot,
No. 45037,
(Fig. 15), is inclu
ded
for
those
who
prefer
to
use it.
Fig.
15
17. Sewing
on buttons
(Fig.
16 and 17)
Use foot
No. 46120
for sewing on two-
or four-hole
buttons,
for snaps,
hooks
and
small bone
or
metal rings.
(Fig.
18).
Lower
ever H
of
the Dial-A-Stitch
into posi
tion Ill
with dial set
as
far
to
the right
as possible.
Lower
the feed.
With stitch
regulator set between
1 and 2,
place
button
on fabric, under button foot,
so
that
needle
passes
through
center of right hole
of the button.
Then
adjust the
zigzag stitch
with the dial so
that the needle
passes
through
the center of the left
hole
of
the
button.
To fix the button to
the
fcsbric, four or five
double
stitches will
do.
When stitching on
buttons having
four
holes,
place the fabric with the
button
as far
back
as
necessary to permit
fastening the
second pair of
holes,
too.
At the
last stitch, leave the
needle at
the right
and
adjust the machine
for
straight
stitches of which
a
few
will
suffice to lock
the stitch.
Fig.
14
44088
45037
Fig 17
Fig.
18
46120
Fig. 16
18 19

18.
Buttonholes
(F)g.
19
and 20)
Screw
on
buttonhole
foot,
No.
42297.
(Buttonholes
can
be
made
with
or
without
cord.
The
cord
used
con
be
varied, depending
on
your
choice, from
the
finest
to
Pearl
Cotton
No.
5).
For
corded
buttonhole,
draw
the
cord
through the
hole
in
the
buttonhole
foot,
towards
the
rear.
The
tension
of
the
upper
and
under
thread
must
be
tightened
to
obtain
a
well
drawn-in
stitch.
The
length
of
the
buttonhole
should
be
marked
in
pencil
on
the
fabric.
With
Dial-A-Stitch
lever
H
in
position
I,
(Fig.
12),
adjust
stitch
regulator
between
zero
-and
one.
Adjust
the
fine
ness
of
the
zigzag
stitch
with
screw
B,
to
the
left
of
the dial,
according
to
the
heaviness of
carding
used.
If
the
zigzag
is
set
at
number
two,
this
is
adequate
for
most
cordings.
After
these
preparations,
the
first
edge
is
sewn
to
the
marked
length.
When
this
is
done,
leave
the
needle
at
the right
side
of
this
edge
in
the
fabric.
Now,
raise
the
presser
bar
and
swing
the
fabric
half
araund,
clockwise,
so
that
the
edge
now
lies
at
the
right
of
the
needle,
parallel
with
the
cord
guide.
Keep
the
work
clean.
Cut
off
excess
cord.
This
makes
neater
buttonholes.
Then
lower
the
presser
bar
and
allow the
needle
to
make
one
more
stitch
to
the
left.
t
I
f
Fig.
19
Fig.
20
20
21

The
needle
is
now
in
the fabric
at
the
left
of the
cord.
Raise
the
needle
and
push
lever
G
into
its
second
groove
by
turning
it
to
the
left. In
this
way,
the
wider
zigzag
stitch
for
the
first
bar
tack
is
set.
To
make
the
bar,
four
to
five
zigzag
stitches
are
necessary,
and
while
doing
these,
the
fabric
must be
held
somewhat
to
reduce
the
forward
feeding.
On
making
the
last
stitch
of the
bar,
leave
the
needle
in the
fabric
to
the
left.
Then,
bring
the
needle
up
and
push
lever
0
back
into
its
first
groove
in
the
position
in
which
you
sewed
the first
edge.
Now
sew
edge
two.
Readjust
the lever
into
the
second
groove
to
make
the
second
bar
tack,
being
sure
that
the
needle
is
raised
before
switching
the
zigzag
lever.
This
second
bar
tack
made, again raise
the
needle
and
push
lever
0
back
to
the
farthest
position
on
the
right
and
make
some
plain
stitches
to
lock
the
threads.
The
cutting
of the
buttonhole
is
made
with
the
button
hole
knife.
This
must
be performed
with
care
to avoid
damaging
the
buttonhole
threads.
Insert
either
the
nar
row
or
the
broad
blade
into
the
holder
and
fasten
it
by
tightening
the screw.
19.
Ornamental
seams
For
plain
and
straight
ornamental
seams
use
the
normal
presser
foot.
For
parallel
seams
use the
edge
stitcher
with
ruler,
No.
41350.
By
skillfully
alternating straight
and
zigzag
stitches
of
varying width
and
length,
you
can
make
any
number
of
attractive
patterns—especially
in
teresting
as dress
decorations.
(Fig.
21).
An
additional
variety
of
effects
is
produced
by
alter-
noting
seams
to
the
right
and
left of
center.
(Fig.
22).
To
sew
left of
center,
push
lever
H
up; to
sew
right
of
cen
ter,
push
lever
H
down.
Colored
thread
is
often
used
to
enhance
the
appearance
of
the
work.
20.
Overedged
hems
Overedged
hems
are
very
popular
for
trimming
ladies
and
childrens
dresses, underwear,
etc.
Fold
the
edge as
required and
baste
if
necessary.
Then
cover
the
folded
edge
with
zigzag
stitches,
small
to
medium-small,
at
a
stitch length
of
1/16th
inch.
Cut
the projecting
edge off
carefully
with
a
pair
of
scissors.
Fig.
21
22
23

An
additional
ornamental seam,
parallel
to
the
edging,
adds
a
handsome
effect.
(Fig. 23).
21.
Applique
work
Trace
the
design
on
both
fabrics,
with
the
cloth
to
be
appliqued
extending
1/16th
inch
beyond
the
edge
of
the
design.
Place
the
cutting
on
the
fabric
so
that
it
corre
sponds
to
the
pattern,
and
baste it
on.
Fig.
22
Fig.
23
24
25

Follow
the
lines
of
the
design with
a
narrow
and
not
too
dense
zigzag
stitch,
and
cut
the
projecting
edges
off
the
cutting.
Then
reinforce
the
seam
with a
wider
and
more
dense
zigzag
seam.
(See
Fig.
24
and
25>.
lf
a
cord
is
to
be appliqued,
or
a
more
raised
effect
is
desi
red,
use
the
special
cording
foot
No.
41621.
(Fig.
26).
This
is
avail
able
at
extra
cast.
Fig.
26
22.
Running
on
lace
This
is
dane
with
the
regular
sewing
foot,
unless
cord
is
to
be
used.
If
so,
use
foot
No.
41621.
(Fig.
26>.
With
strong
fabric
such
as
linen,
shirting,
etc. the
lace
is
applied
1/16th
inch
from
the
edge,
and
basted
an
if
necessary.
The
edge
of
the
lace
is
then
covered
with
zigzag
stitches
and
the
projecting
fabric
cut
off.
ln
the
case
of
finer
fabrics
such
as
voile
and
cambric,
the
lace
is
sewn
on
with
straight
stitches
as
above
des-
41621
41621
Fig.
24
Fig.
25
Fig.
27
26
27

cribed.
Then
the
projecting edge
of
the
fabric
is
folded
under,
the
double
edge
is
covered
with
zigzag stitches,
and
the
projecting
fabric cut
off.
In
this
manner,
opening
of
the
fabric
is
made
impossible.
if
special,
clean-edge
lace
borders are
desired far
sewing curtains,
bed
linens,
etc.,
a
special
foot,
No.
41746,
is
available
at extra cost.
This
curls
the
edge
of
the
fabric
under
as
the
lace
is
sewn
on.
(Fig.
27).
By
holding
the
lace
back, ar letting
it go
forward,
lace
bor
ders
can
be
shirred
or
sewn
on
flat.
23.
Even
hems
(flg.
30)
Even
hems
are
sewn
by
using
hemming
foot,
Na.
41246,
(Fig.
28),
or
with
the
larger
hemming
foot,
No.
41248,
(Fig. 29),
with
the machine
set
for
straight
zigzag
stitch.
With
light
ensian
and
medium-sized
zigzag
stitches, the
rolled
edge
of
the
fabric
remains
even
and
smooth.
With
tight
tension
and
broad
zigzag
stitches
an
undulating
railed
hem
is
obtained,
especially
desirable
in
the
case
of
knitted
silk
goonds.
Special
effects
are
obtained by
using
thread
of
different
shades.
Fig.
30
1246
41248
41248
Fig. 28
Fig.
29
24.
Felling
(Fig.
32)
For
felling,
use
the
felling
foot
No.
41242.
(Fig.
31).
Place
the
two
fabrics
together
so
that
the
lower
layer
41242
projects about
1/4”
on
the
right side.
Then
guide the two
pieces
into
the
feller,
just
as
when
hemming.
The
lower
Fig.
31
fabric
is
then
folded
once,
and
sewn
to the
top piece.
Now
infold
the
two pieces of
cloth
as
shown
in
Fig.
32,
flatten
the
seam,
and
once
more
guide the
edge
thus
formed
through
the feller.
When felling,
use the
straight
lock
stitch,
except
for
thin
or
elastic
fabrics and
knitted
goods,
which
require
a
medium-sized
zigzag
stitch
for
good
strong
seams.
Fig.
32
28
29

25.
Embreidering
and
darning
Remove
the
presser foot
and
lower
the
feed.
Raise
the
presser
bar,
place
wire
clamp
(A)
with
its
bent
end
around
the
shank
of
foot
screw
(13);
and
with
the short
end
into hole
(C)
of
the face plate.
(Fig.
33). By
lowering
the
presser bar
lever, the
thread
tension
is re-established.
It
is helpful
to
use an
embroidery
ring
in
any convenient
size.
For darning,
use
soft,
mercerized
cotton
No.
40 to
80 depending
on the
thickness of
the fabric.
If large
parts
are
to
be mended, we
recommend
cutting
out the
damaged
pieces,
inserting
a
fresh
piece
of
fabric,
and
fastening
it
with
zigzag
stitches,
as shown
in Fig.
34
Fig.
34
Fig.
33
30
31

26.
Covered
cords
Covered
cords
are
made
with
the
feed
cover
plate
and
cord
guide
No.
41842,
in
addition
to
the
cording
foot,
No.
41319
with
five
grooves.
All
of
these
are
available
at
a
slight
extra
cost.
Embroidery
yarn
No.
40,
sewing
silk,
or
standard
sew
ing
cotton,
may
be
used
Crochet
yarn
No.
3
or
5
can
serve
as
cord.
Pass
the
crochet
yarn
through
the
cording
guide,
and
place
the
fabric
under
the
presser
foot.
Sew
the
cord
on
the
line
you
have
traced,
with
a
medium
zig-zag
stitch.
Soft
cording
effects
can
be
obtained
by
using
a
filler
thread.
This,
(as
shown
in Fig.
35),
is
done
with
smaller
zigzag
stitches.
27.
Ruffling
Ruffling
is
done
with
the
same
type
of
cording
men
tioned
above.
(See
Fig.
36).
Fasten
one
end
of
the
filler
thread,
and
tighten
it
after
completing
the
sean.
The
fabric
can now
be
puckered
together
for
uniform ruffling.
The
opposite
end
of
the
cord
must
be
fixed, to
prevent
the
ruffling
from
be
coming
undone.
28.
Hemsfifching
(Fig.
37)
First
draw
the
threads
according to
the
pattern,
just
as
if
hemstitching
by
hand.
The
two edges
where
the
threads
have
been
drawn
must
now
be
sewn
with
narrow
zigzag
stitches,
using
the
regular
presser
foot.
The
length
of
stitch
depends
on
the
effect
you
wish
to
obtain.
When
sewing
the
second
edge,
make
sure
that
the
same
threads
are
covered,
and
that
the length of
stitch
is
the
same as
an
the
first
edge,
to
assure
a
uniform
appearance.
For
this
work
an
embroidery
ring
is very
useful.
Fig.
35
32 33

H
Fig 36
1
Fig 37
34
35

29.
Picof edging
Picot
edging
is
obtained
by
cutting
the
above
hem-
stitched
hem
along the
center. (Fig.
38).
This
type
of
edging
is
used to
prevent
the
unravelling
of
the
plain
cloth-edge.
30.
Rolled
hems
Rolled
hems
are
produced
with
the
aid
of
sewing
foot
No.
46261
x
1,5
(Fig.
39).
Use
small
zigzag
stitches
to
ensure
a
neat
effect.
46261x1,5
46261x 5
31.
Scalloped rolled
hems (Fig,
41)
Scalloped
rolled
hems
on
knitted goods
are made
with
foot
No.
46261
x
3,
available
at
extra
cost.
The
scalloped
form
of the hem
is
the
result of
the
wide zigzag
stitch
sewn
with
firm
tension.
On
neck
pieces and
lingerie
straps
of
heavy
knit
goods,
the rolled
hem described
above
is
too
thick.
In
this
case,
the
making
of
a
scalloped
edge
with
edge stitcher
No.
41350
and
the ruler
with
cording
guide,
No.
26862,
is
re
rommende.d.
The
latter
one
is
available
at
slight
extra
cost.
Fig.
39
Fig.
40
Fig.
38
32.
Scalloped
edge
(Fig.
42)
36
37