Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW User manual

The user should obtain confirmation from the installer that
the chimney is of sound airtight construction, is clear of
obstructions and has been swept before installation.
The Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW has been designed to
burn a variety of solid fuels to provide heating facilities for
cooking, domestic hot water and central heating.
The cooker and water temperatures are manually
controlled by the spinwheel on the front of the ashpit
door.
This appliance has been tested using manufactured
briquetted smokeless fuel (Taybrite and Ancit) for closed
appliances sized between 20g and 140g. Other fuels are
commercially available and may give similar results.
WARNING: HOT SURFACES, use the tool supplied to
operate the appliance. It is recommended to use the
heatproof gloves supplied when raising the dome lids to
use the hotplate. Replacement gloves can be obtained
from the Aga Shop.
Users Instructions for
Rayburn Heatranger 216SFW
Multi-Fuel Cooker
101/06 EOPI 514411
Consumer Protection
As responsible manufacturers we take care to make sure that our
products are designed and constructed to meet the required safety
standards when properly installed and used.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: PLEASE READ THE ACCOMPANYING
WARRANTY.
Any alteration that is not approved by Aga, could invalidate the
approval of the appliance, the warranty and could also infringe the
current issue of the statutory rights. Use only authorised replacement
parts.
All local regulations including those referring to national
and European standards need to be complied with when
installing this appliance.
Important
This appliance could contain any of the materials that are indicated
below, it is the Users/Installers responsibility to ensure that the
necessary personal protective clothing is worn when handling, where
applicable, the pertinent parts that contain any of the listed materials
that could be interpreted as being injurious to health and safety, see
below for information.
Firebricks – when handling use disposable gloves.
Fire Cement – when handling use disposable gloves.
Glues and Sealants – exercise caution – if these are still in liquid
form use face mask and disposable gloves.
Glass Yarn, Mineral Wool, Insulation Pads, Ceramic Fibre,
Kerosene Oil – may be harmful if inhaled, may be irritating to skin,
eyes, nose and throat. When handling avoid inhaling and contact
with skin or eyes. Use disposable gloves, face-masks and eye
protection. After handling wash hands and other exposed parts.
When disposing of the product, reduce dust with water spray, ensure
that parts are securely wrapped.
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IMPORTANT
This cooker is intended to run
in a continuously alight condition
at all times, at low fire rate
when idling, unless
servicing is
required.
WARNING
THE ASHPIT DOOR AND FIREBOX DOORS MUST BE
LOCKED CLOSED AT ALL TIMES DURING NORMAL
USE, EXCEPT WHEN LIGHTING OR RE-FUELLING
INTRODUCTION

Provision must be made for additional ventilation. A
permanent unobstructed air vent having a minimum
effective area of 22cm2must communicate to outside air
or an adjacent room which in turn has a permanent vent
of at least the same size to outside air.
If a flue draught stabiliser is fitted in the flue this vent size
must be increased to a minimum 49cm2. If this appliance
is used with an additional appliance of a similar type then
the air supply must be adequate for both appliances in
accordance with Building Regulations.
Any air inlet grilles must be maintained so that they are
free from blockage.
OVEN DOOR OPERATION - SEE FIG. 1
To open the doors. Twist the handle slightly to lift up the
door catch from the locking spindle and pull the door
open.
To close the doors. Gently push the door shut until the
door catch makes contact with the locking spindle.
FIRE DOOR OPERATION - SEE FIG. 2
To open the door. Lift the door by the handle and pull
forward.
To close the door. Lift the door up by the handle and push
to shut.
THE FIREDOOR MUST BE LIFTED SLIGHTLY WHEN
OPENING AND CLOSING, OTHERWISE DAMAGE TO
THE DOOR CATCH WILL OCCUR.
DO NOT SLAM THE FIREDOOR SHUT!
DOOR OPERATION
DESN 512979
DESN 512978
2
Fig. 1
Fig. 2

Firebrick Positions and Replacement
The Rayburn is delivered complete including a set of
boiler removable firebricks where positional location
determines the amount of hot water supplied in winter and
summer seasons. The oven side and firebox firebricks are
permanently fixed with fire cement whilst the two boiler
side bricks are located for the summer season thereby
providing domestic hot water only.
For winter use or central heating facilities, the boiler face
side bricks are removed. See Figs. 3, 4 and 5.
The firebricks fitted to Rayburn Cookers are of first quality
manufacture, and providing the cooker has been installed
and used correctly will have a reasonable life.
They are however, expendable items and in time will
require renewal. The renewal of firebricks is not a major
operation and can be carried out by the average
handyman. The boiler side firebricks are supported on a
frame on the boilers sides and are held in position by a
retaining toggle at the top.
The front plate protection firebrick is held in position by a
retaining rib on the boiler side. The firebricks are not
attached with fire cement and can be removed and refitted
quite simply. See Fig. 5.
Replacement bricks either in sets or singly can be
obtained from your Rayburn stockist. Quote the serial
number which will be found on a data plate fixed to the
appliance. Do not force out the firebricks, they may
become brittle after firing.
Secondary Air Slide
On opening the firedoor the secondary air slide is seen on
the base of the opening and should be set according to
the fuel as follows:-
Air Slide Open
Wood Logs
Air Slide Closed
Manufactured smokeless fuels
Manufactured: Phurnacite Plus, Supacite, Coalite Nuts,
Maxibrite, Phurnacite, Sunbrite Doubles, Extracite,
Blazebrite, Taybrite, Coke.
Natural: Anthracite Large and Small Nuts, Selected
Housecoal (Trebles/Large Nuts and Doubles/Nuts).
WARNING: PETROLEUM COKE MUST NOT BE USED.
Oversize fuel lumps should be broken down to size.
Stone and other foreign bodies should be removed when
fuelling.
Fuels should be stored under cover, particularly
manufactured fuels which must be kept dry. Wet kitchen
refuse should not be burned.
Fuelling with Wood or Peat
The cooker will satisfactorily burn wood logs, blocks or
peat briquettes, but the logs should be perfectly dry in
order to obtain the best cooker performance and minimise
the deposits of creosote. Wood logs may also provide
overnight banking and the following hints are
recommended:-
RECOMMENDED SOLID FUELS
3
GENERAL
Fig. 3 Summer Use Domestic Hot Water Only
Fig. 4 Winter Use Domestic Hot Water and Heating
Fig. 5 Firebrick Fitting

a) Burn dry soft wood in the daytime and dry hard wood
overnight if possible.
b) Avoid using ‘green’ wood on overnight banking as
creosote deposits will be increased.
c) Using hard wood in the daytime will give prolonged
burning but heating response will be slower.
d) Before refuelling, open the flue chamber damper to its
full extent and fill the firebox up to the bottom of the
firedoor opening, ensuring the secondary air slide is at
fully open.
All Fuels Using Wood and Paper
a) Check the flue pipe is free of blockage.
b) Open firebox door.
c) Open ashpit door.
d) De-ash (Fig. 7) and remove dead fuel from
bottomgrate, rake fuel into ashpan.
e) Remove ashpan, empty and replace (Fig. 8).
f) Open flue chamber damper to maximum (Fig. 9).
g) Flue dilution lever fully to ‘left’ (flue chamber door
closed, Fig. 9).
h) Lay a liberal supply of wood and paper on top of the
bottomgrate bars together with a small quantity of fuel
and light.
i) Close and lock the ashpit door with the spinwheel
control open.
j) Close and lock the firedoor.
k) With fire established, open firebox door and fill firebox
with fuel. Check secondary air slide setting (Fig. 10).
Close and lock firebox door. Push flue chamber
damper back to position which has been found to give
desired burning rate.
All Fuels Using a Gas Poker
a) Check the flue pipe is free of blockage.
b) Open firebox door.
c) Open ashpit box.
d) De-ash (Fig. 7) dead fuel from bottomgrate, rake fuel
into ashpan. Insert flay bayonet type gas poker on top
of bottomgrate bars.
e) Remove ashpan, and empty (Fig. 8).
f) Open flue chamber damper to maximum (Fig. 9).
g) Flue dilution lever fully ‘left’. (flue chamber door
closed, Fig. 9).
h) Lay a 75-100mm (3ins-4ins) shallow depth of fuel onto
the bottomgrate and light gas poker.
i) Close the ashpit and firebox doors as far as possible -
spinwheel control open.
j. When the fuel is well alight, extinguish and remove
the gas poker, replace the clinker door and ashpan,
close and lock the ashpit door with the spinwheel
control open, close the firedoor.
k) With the fire established, open the firebox door and fill
firebox with fuel. Check secondary air slide setting
(Fig. 8). Close and lock the firebox door. Push the
flue chamber damper back to position which has been
found to give best results. Set spinwheel to give
desired burning rate.
NOTE: IF THERE IS DEAD FUEL IN THE GRATE,
DROP THE BOTTOMGRATE TO REMOVE THE FUEL
UNLESS A GAS POKER IS GOING TO BE USED - SEE
UNDER ‘TO DUMP THE GRATE’.
1. The ashpit door spinwheel does not require to be open
for more than:-
a)Coke - Five complete turns
b)Other recommended fuels - Three complete turns
during cooking period.
2. Ensure the chimney damper is fully open prior to
refuellng and the secondary air slide is set in the
position relevant to the fuel used.
3. With the firedoor only open, fill the firebox to the
recommended level of the bottom firedoor opening
(not above) and close the firedoor. A deep bed of
newly charged fuel on a low fire will take time before
the heat reaches the oven, hotplate and boiler. When
burning coal or Anthracite, allow several minutes for
the new charge to ignite before changing the damper
setting.
4. Once refuelling has been completed, close the
firedoor immediately and open only for re-fuelling.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
4
FUELLING
Fig. 6 Familiarise Yourself with the Cooker

The fire is controlled by using the spinwheel on the ashpit
door to govern air supply. The chimney damper in the flue
chamber is for reducing the chimney draught, and the
more the damper can be closed the easier the cooker is
to control. It is marked to enable you to repeat the best
settings you find suits your chimney No.1 is closed
position and No.6 when fully open.
Do not try to obtain a quick increase in temperature by
opening the chimney damper to its full extent. This results
in most of the heat being wasted up the chimney.
Avoid excessive fire temperatures with solid fuel - they are
not necessary and may do serious harm to the cooker.
The first sign that the cooker is being overheated is the
formation of clinker (melted ash), and clinker will damage
the firebricks. Damaged firebricks should be repaired with
fire cement or if necessary replaced as soon as possible.
Keep the ashpit door securely closed with screw
catch provided.
Main Oven
The correct adjustment of the spinwheel damper to obtain
the oven temperature required varies with the chimney
draught, and can be found only by experiment. The
following is a suggested method only, and may need
modification to suit local conditions. Suppose an oven
temperature for roasting is desired and the cooker is
idling.
Thoroughly de-ash the fire as described in the ‘Riddling’
paragraph, and refuel. Set the chimney damper to No. 3
setting and open the spinwheel as described under item 1
of ‘Fuelling’. As soon as the fire has become nicely red all
through, close the chimney damper. Do not allow the fire
to become white hot. The temperature of the oven should
now rise steadily. When it reaches a point about 30ºC
(50ºF) below that required, close the spinwheel to
approximately one turn open. Thereafter control the
temperature of the oven by adjusting the spinwheel.
NOTE: THIS METHOD SHOULD PROVE SUCCESSFUL
IN ALMOST ALL CASES, BUT IF CLOSING THE
CHIMNEY DAMPER CAUSES THE FIRE TO SMOKE, IT
SHOULD BE OPENED GRADUALLY UNTIL THE
SMOKING STOPS.
The Warming Oven
The oven is primarily intended for heating plates and
keeping food warm. As a guide this warming oven is just
less than half the temperature of the main oven.
NOTE: THE DOORS SHOULD NOT BE SLAMMED
SHUT, OR THIS WILL WEAR AWAY THE METAL
RETAINER CATCHES.
The Hotplate
It is recommended to use the heatproof gloves supplied
when raising the dome lids to use the hotplate.
Replacement gloves can be obtained from the Aga Shop.
The best results can only be obtained by using machine
base utensils. The hottest part of the hotplate is
5
OVEN TEMPERATURE
HOT
MODERATE
SLOW
200º-260ºC (400º-500ºF)
150º-200ºC (300º-400ºF)
90º-150ºC (200º-300ºF)
Fig. 9
CONTROL
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 10

immediately above the fire, the other end is for simmering.
The plug in the hotplate at the flue chamber end is for flue
cleaning and should not be removed for cooking or when
the cooker is fired.
NOTE: IN ORDER TO OBTAIN AN OPTIMUM HOT
PLATE PERFORMANCE FOR FAST BOILING OR HOT
PLATE COOKING, FUEL THE FIREBOX TO THE
BOTTOM EDGE OF THE FULLING APERTURE TO A
HORIZONTAL LEVEL.
WARNING: THE COOKER TOP PLATE SURFACE
AROUND THE HOTPLATE WILL BECOME HOT UNDER
USE AND CARE MUST BE OBSERVED. PLEASE
REFER TO THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
REGARDING MINIMUM CLEARANCES TO
COMBUSTIBLE SURFACES AND MATERIALS.
Wood
The cooker is designed for continuous slumbering
overnight up to a maximum of 12 hours depending on the
type of dry wood being used.
Last thing at night, open the chimney damper, riddle the
fire, empty the ashpan and refuel as described under
“Fuelling”. Ensure that the ashpit door is securely
closed, spinwheel is closed and opened a 1/4 turn and
the damper is closed to its No.1 setting.
Turn the pivoted dilution lever (on the bottom front flue
chamber door) Fig. 9 from left to right hand side so that
the door opens at the bottom and minimises the burning
rate and chimney condensation.
NOTE: THE PRECISE AMOUNT OF OPENING
DEPENDS ON THE CHIMNEY DRAUGHT AND MAY
TAKE 2 OR 3 DAYS TO ASCERTAIN IN CONJUNCTION
WITH THE TYPE/CONDITION OF WOOD BEING
BURNT.
1. If the fuel in the firebox is exhausted prematurely, the
overnight chimney draught must be reduced by further
opening of the flue chamber door.
2. If the fuel does not burn but ‘dies out’ the draught
should be increased by partly closing the flue chamber
door. In the morning, close the flue chamber door, open
the spinwheel and damper and fuel the fire. Immediately
the new fuel has caught alight, riddle the fire and close the
damper.
NOTE: BUILD-UP OF CREOSOTE DEPOSITS IN THE
FLUE AND CHIMNEY CAN IN TIME, LEAD TO
CHIMNEY FIRES. THESE DEPOSITS CAN BE
PREVENTED BY THE REGULAR USE OF A
PROPRIETARY BRAND OF CHEMICAL CREOSOTE
REMOVER CHIMNEY CLEANER SUCH AS ”ATTACK”
WHICH REDUCES THE ADHESION STRENGTH OF
THE CREOSOTE DEPOSITS, CAUSING THEM TO
FALL.
IMPORTANT: CHEMICAL CLEANERS MUST NOT BE
CONSIDERED AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO CHIMNEY
SWEEPING, ONLY AS SUPPLEMENTARY.
DO NOT CARRY OUT THIS OPERATION WITH THE
FIRE ALIGHT.
Solid Fuel
The cooker is designed for continuous burning and the
best results will only be obtained if it is allowed to burn
overnight. It is no more expensive in fuel. Last thing at
night open the chimney damper, riddle the fire, empty the
ashpan and refuel. Do not overload. Ensure that the
ashpit door is securely closed. Close the spinwheel
and reopen it a quarter of a turn.
THE BEST POSITION FOR THE CHIMNEY DAMPER
CAN BE FOUND ONLY BY EXPERIMENT, BUT FOR A
START TRY CLOSING IT TO No. 1 SETTING.
In the morning, open the spinwheel and damper and
riddle the fire. When it is burning, close damper, if the
hotplate is required immediately, lightly refuel before use.
EXCEPTIONS: WHEN BURNING ANTHRACITE OR
PHURNACITE ALWAYS REFUEL BEFORE EMPTYING
ASHPAN AND RIDDLING.
Open the chimney damper to its full extent and the ashpit
door. Engage the operating tool into the riddling lever
which projects through the ashpan front and push/pull the
lever in a back and forth motion to de-ash.
ALWAYS DE-ASH BEFORE REFUELLING (SEE
‘EXCEPTIONS’ BELOW AT THE FOLLOWING
INTERVALS).
SUMMER USE:
Three times daily at least.
WINTER USE:
Three time daily at least and more often if required.
NOTE: SHOULD THE BOTTOMGRATE DE-ASHING
FAIL TO CLEAR AN ACCUMULATION OF STONES,
SHALE OR CLINKER, IT MAY BE REMOVED AS
DESCRIBED IN SECTION ‘REMOVAL OF CLINKER’.
Open the ashpit door to give access to the ashpan which
must be emptied regularly (See Fig. 8). In winter, this may
be more than three times daily depending on weather
severity. The class of fuel and cooker usage govern the
frequency of refuelling.
NOTE: DO NOT ALLOW ASH TO ACCUMULATE IN
THE ASHPAN UNTIL IT TOUCHES THE UNDERSIDE
OF THE BOTTOMGRATE BARS OR THEY WILL
QUICKLY BURN OUT.
Ensure the ashpan is fully home otherwise the ashpit
door may not close and lock completely.
Clinker Removal - ‘To Dump the Grate’.
1. Open the ashpit door and remove ashpan.
2. Insert wire tool into locating sockets of grate frame
(See Fig. 14) lifting hand holding end upwards until
grate frame is free of its supports. Taking the weight
of the grate frame, gently lower front of grate
assembly until it rests on ashpit bottom plate.
3. Remove clinker from sloping bottom grate either by
raking poker or tongs.
4. Lift tool upwards and replace front of grate in reverse
manner described in 2ensuring the grate frame is
securely supported and located.
5. Check that the reciprocating bars operate by
push/pulling the ridding lever with the tool.
6. Replace the ashpan and lock the ashpit door
securely.
OVERNIGHT BURNING
6

WARNING: HOT SURFACES, use the tool supplied to
operate the appliance. It is recommended to use the
heatproof gloves supplied when raising the dome lids to
use the hotplate. Replacement gloves can be obtained
from the Aga Shop.
The firebox should be filled to the recommended level of
the bottom firebox door opening and the firebox door
closed.
NOTE: WHEN BURNING ALL MANUFACTURED
FUELS OTHER THAN SUNBRITE COKE, THE
SECONDARY ARE SLIDE SHOULD BE SET IN A
CLOSED POSITION. A DEEP BED OF NEWLY
CHARGED FUEL ON A LOW FIRE WILL TAKE TIME
BEFORE HEAT REACHES THE OVEN, HOTPLATE
AND BOILER.
When burning Coal, Phurnacite and Anthracite, allow
several minutes for the new charge to ignite before
changing the flue chamber setting.
ONCE REFUELLING HAS BEEN COMPLETED, CLOSE
THE FIREBOX DOOR IMMEDIATELY AND OPEN ONLY
FOR REFUELLING CHARGES.
When burning coke, anthracite and other smokeless
fuels, logs or peat, the flue should be cleaned once a
month.
The use of coal may call for weekly cleaning. The
procedure is illustrated in Figs 11, 12 and 13.
Allow the fire to burn out, or it may be done with a low fire.
Open the chimney damper to its maximum. Remove the
flue chamber cleaning door. Brush the soot from the flue
pipe, letting it fall on top of the oven. Remove the plug
from the hotplate, rake the deposits forward, and push
into the firebox (Fig. 12). Replace parts removed, Riddle
the bottomgrate thoroughly, clear the ashpit and relight
the fire.
NOTE: THE COOKER IS DESIGNED AND INTENDED
TO BE UNDER CONTINUOUS FIRING AND WHEN NOT
IN USE, ASHPIT AND FLUE CHAMBER DOORS
SHOULD BE LEFT OPEN TO ENSURE FREE PASSAGE
OF AIR THROUGH THE APPLIANCE AND SO
AVOIDING PROBLEMS ARISING FROM
CONDENSATION.
Following a prolonged shutdown of the appliance perhaps
after the summer break, ensure the flue way is free from
obstruction prior to re-lighting.
Chimney Sweeping
Sweep annually and inspect the soot box at 3 monthly
intervals, remove any deposits.
NOTE: SWEEPS BRUSHES MUST BE OF THE TYPE
WITH THE WIRE CENTRES AND GUIDE WHEELS.
In the unlikely event that the appliance is not operating in
freezing conditions, the water must be drained from the
boiler to prevent frost damage.
Failing to maintain your cooker properly can lead to a
chimney fire. Chimney fires occur when combustible
deposits on the inner walls of the chimney ignite. These
combustible deposits on the inner walls of the chimney
ignite. These combustible deposits, called “creosote”, are
a natural by-product of wood burning. A fire hazard exists
if 1/4” of creosote (or more) coats the inner wallsof the
chimney.
Prevention
Chimney fires do not occur in clean, intact, properly
installed chimneys. Have a professional chimney sweep
clean and inspect your appliance at least once a year.
More frequent cleanings may be required, based on the
type of fuel burned, the type of appliance, and the
frequency of use. In general, an older appliance or one
that is used frequently, will require more than one clean
per year.
7
REFUELLING
FLUE CLEANING
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
CHIMNEYS

Detection
The first indication of a chimney fire is usually the noise -
a roaring sound that grows louder as the fire’s intensity
increases. Clouds of black smoke and sparks will be seen
exiting the top of the chimney; in severe fires, flames can
several feet about the chimney.
Action
In case of a chimney fire follow these steps but do not put
yourself or others in peril.
1. Call the fire brigade immediately.
2. Get everyone out of the property.
3. Close down the air supply to the appliance i.e. the
primary air spinner and the flue damper. Limiting the
fire’s air supply will reduce its intensity. If there is a
damper in the chimney connector, plug or close the
opening.
4. If a fire extinguisher is available, open the appliance
door just enough to insert the nozzle of a 4 kg dry
chemical fire extinguisher rated for Class ABC fires.
Discharge the entire content of the extinguisher into
the appliance and shut the door.
5. If possible, wet down the roof and other outside
combustibles to prevent fires ignited by shooting
sparks and flames.
6. Closely monitor all combustible surfaces near the
chimney. During severe chimney fires, these surfaces
can become hot enough to ignite.
After a chimney fire, have the chimney inspected by a
professional sweep or cooker installer.
The cooker has been designed to provide a satisfactory
supply of domestic hot water with or without a limited
amount of heating with a normal day’s cooking providing
the cooker is kept alight overnight and the system
complete with lagged cylinder conforms to the installation
instructions.
In some circumstances it may be possible to overheat the
appliance and the water inside will boil. This will be evident
by the sound of a knocking noise coming from the
appliance and pipes around the house. If this occurs, close
off all air controls and manually start the central heating
pump if fitted. Opening the oven doors and hotplate covers
will help to release heat from the appliance. Be aware that
steam and boiling water will be expended from any open
vent from the heating system probably in the roof space at
the expansion tank.
Always use a qualified service/heating engineer when
servicing is required. Use only authorised replacement
parts. Do not make unauthorised modifications.
To Replace Grate Bars
1. Dump the grate assembly as described in 1, 2and 3
under ‘To Dump the Grate - Clinker Removal’.
2. Lift up and draw forward the firebar in question and
replace new firebar in reverse manner.
To Replace Grate Bar Support Frame
1. Dump the grate assembly as described in 1, 2and 3
under ‘TO DUMP THE GRATE - CLINKER
REMOVAL’.
2. Lift up and withdraw all the grate bars from the cooker.
3. Lift the support frame from its rear pivot support and
withdraw until clear of ashpit.
4. Insert new frame ensuring its pivot/supported at rear.
5. Replace firebars ensuring they are in correct order.
6. Lift grate assembly (as described in 4and 5under ‘TO
DUMP THE GRATE CLINKER’.
Properly installed and operated, this cooker will not emit
fumes.
Occasionally fumes from de-ashing and re-fuelling may
occur, but persistent fume emission must not be tolerated.
If fume emission does persist, then the following
immediate action should be taken:-
a) Open doors and windows to ventilate room.
b) Let the fire out or remove lit fuel from cooker.
c) Check for flue or chimney blockage and clean if
required.
d) Do not attempt to relight the fire until cause of fumes
has been been identified, and if necessary seek
professional advice.
Part Number Description No Req’d
RS4M 22093 Bottomgrate Bars Top 4
RS4M 22094 Bottomgrate Bars Bottom 3
RS4F3-13507 Oven Side Firebricks (Fixed) 2
RS4F4-13508 Firebox Side Top Firebrick 1
RS4F3-13509 Front Firebrick 1
RS4F3-13507 Boiler Side Firebricks 2
(Removeable)
RS1M91905 Ashpan 2
RSFM61 Operating Tool 1
Replacement parts if required are available from your
local stockist.
8
SERVICING
FUME EMISSION WARNING
SPARES LIST
Fig. 14
HOT WATER SERVICE

REMEMBER: BE CAREFUL OF THE HOT APPLIANCE.
Immediately wipe off any fuel streaks between the firebox
and ashpit doors.
To keep the vitreous enamelled surfaces bright and clean,
wipe over daily with a soapy damp cloth, followed by a
clean dry duster. If milk, fruit juice or anything containing
acid is split on the top plate or down the cooker, be sure
to wipe it immediately or the vitreous enamel may be
permanently discoloured. Keep a damp cloth handy, while
cooking to wipe up spills as they occur, so they do not
harden and become more difficult to remove later. If spills
do become baked on a cream cleanser can be used. For
stubborn deposits a soap impregnated pad can be
carefully used on the vitreous enamel.
In the main oven, spills and fat splashes are carbonised
at high temperature, occasionally brush off with a stiff
brush. The oven door can be removed for cleaning - do
not immerse in water, and shelves can be soaked and
cleaned with a cream cleanser.
Both insulating covers should be raised and allowed to
cool before cleaning with a soapy damp cloth. Use a wire
brush to keep the cast iron hotplate clean. General
cleaning is best carried out when the Rayburn is cool.
NOTE: SMOKE/SMELL EMITTED DURING INITIAL
USAGE
Some parts of the cooker have been coated with a light
covering of protective oil. During initial operation of the
cooker this may cause smoke/smell to be emitted and is
normal and not a fault with the appliance, therefore it is
advisable to open doors and or windows to allow for
ventilation. Lift the lids to prevent staining the linings.
Important: Aga recommend Vitreous Enamel Association
approved cleaners for cleaning the vitreous enamelled
surfaces of this product.
But they are unsuitable for use on chrome and stainless
steel components, including the hand-rails and their
brackets.
The insulating covers should be cleaned regularly with a
NON-ABRASIVE mild detergent, applied with a soft
(coarse free) cloth and lightly polished up afterwards with
a soft (coarse free) duster or tissue, to bring it back to its
original lustre.
The oven is indirectly heated from outside by hot gases
from the heat source so no flames or elements within the
oven means full use can be made of the whole cooking
space. The main oven is slightly hotter towards the top
than the bottom. At a low idling heat from the main oven
can be used for long slow cooking such as casseroles,
stock, soup, curries, meringues, creme caramels, rice
pudding etc, all of which benefit from the gentle slow heat
and as the oven is vented into the flue, cooking smells
disappear to the outside. One of the many benefits of the
cast iron oven is that the floor of the oven is hotter than
that of a conventional cooker. No need to bake quiche
pastry cases “blind” just place the flan dish on the oven
floor for half the cooking time for ‘soggy-free’ pastry.
When the oven is hot the floor of the oven can be used for
shallow frying (a cast iron dish is recommended) with the
added advantages that fat splashes are carbonised so
cleaning is minimised and the frying smells are taken
away through the flue. For perfect baking results turn food
during cooking. The top of a hot oven is where grilling
takes place, use the meat tray with a grill rack (optional
extra) so that fat can drip into the tray. The thermodial
temperature gauge, on the main oven door is a guide to
the internal oven temperature. Remember though on
opening the door the temperature will appear to drop, do
not worry, close the door and after a few minutes the true
temperature can be read again. Heat is not lost as quickly
from a cast iron oven as a pressed metal box type so you
can peep at the cake to see how it is cooking without it
sinking. As you have probably realised, the meat tray
supplied with your Rayburn fits the oven size, hanging
directly from the runners, so leaving the grid shelves free
for other dishes. The oven grid shelves are designed to be
non-tilt and should be fitted with the upstand to the top
and at the back, so when pulled forward the shelf cannot
come right out. The solid plain shelf can be used as a
baking sheet or as a heat deflector. If the oven is too hot
or food already in the oven is beginning to overbrown
slide in the solid plain shelf above the food. To be effective
this shelf should be stored out of the oven, so it can be
used from cold.
DO NOT USE ABRASIVE PADS OR OVEN CLEANERS
NOTE: IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO PUT VERY WET
CLOTHES ON THE HANDRAIL, AS THIS MAY CRAZE
THE ENAMEL.
9
COOKING HINTSCLEANING

10

11

12
For further advice or information contact
your local distributor/stockist
With Aga’s policy of continuous product
improvement, the Company reserves the right to
change specifications and make modifications to
the appliance described at any time.
Manufactured by
Aga
Station Road
Ketley Telford
Shropshire TF1 5AQ
England
www.aga-web.co.uk
www.agacookshop.co.uk
www.agalinks.com