RC Factory Clik Evo Instruction Manual

Building Instructions
Thank you for choosing our product, the Clik Evo. You have just bought a
high performance model for indoor type (F P) aerobatics.
Please read these Building Instructions carefully. You may prevent
undesirable outcomes...
Team RC Factory recommendation:
You may use several types of glue a contact glue (UHUPor), foam safe CA–
(for the rest of this document, when we say CA, we mean foam safe or
styro CA), polyurethane glue (Purex), 5 minute Epoxy. We prefer„ “
UHUpor type glue for depron parts and CA for smaller parts. For good
results and low weight, you may try thinning the contact glue by
technical gasoline or by warming up the glue.
Contact glue how to use: apply a thin layer to both parts and let settle–
for to 10 minutes (the glue should not be completely dry, only a bit
tacky). After that, hold the parts firmly together. Be careful, because
they cannot be separated again without a big risk of damaging them.
Use paper towel to remove all excess glue. You will have a lighter and
better looking model.
You ill be asked to „sharpen the end of a carbon stick“. Ho to do
it:
Use cca 400 grade sand paper and rub the end of the stick against the
sandpaper, while turning it slowly in your fingers. The angle of the
stick is cca 0 in relation to your workbench.°
Ho to split the carbon sticks:
Use your hobby knife blade to roll the stick on your workbench, pushing
down on the blade until the the stick splits.
•Do not forget to vaccum the carbon dust, if you happen to make any.
You will do your health a big favour!
•Build your model at standard room temperature (20 22 C).– °
•Ventilate your workshop well, glue fumes are harmful for your
health.

Please check the completeness of your kit by comparing it to the
attached parts list. In case of questions or complaints, feel free to
contact us: [email protected] .
No you can start building:
Diagram 1:
Use sharp knife to cut the bevel to wing and aileron parts where the
aileron is hinged. Remember, the hinge is a clear adhesive tape on the
top of the wing. Repeat for the elevator and the rudder (on both parts of
fuselage, upper and lower). Use clear tape to attach the ailerons to the
wings. You may want to first prime the surfaces under the tape with a
thin smear of contact glue. Glue the 100mm carbon strip into the
elevator (using CA) on a straight workbench.–
Diagram 2:
On your workbench, join the wings with the longest part of the backbone„ “
and the horizontal stabilizer ( fixed part of the elevator ). All should„ “
be bottom side up . The shape of each wing root is different,„ “
preventing wrong assembly with the backbone. Now you may also glue
control horns into the ailerons (CA).
Glue the x0.5x660 mm CA strip to the leading edge of the wing,
throughout, across the curved front part of the backbone (UHUPor). Do it
on a straigt workbench, using good amount of glue. Attach (glue) the
front part of the backbone (the triangles graphic is supposed to be on
the upper side of the part). Glue the lift tabs to the front part of the
wing. Attach the EPP parts to the fuselage (CA or UHUPor). The little tab
should make sure that you do it in the right way. Check that the
thrustline is pointed to the right (left when your assembly is now
bottom side up).
Diagram 3:
Sharpen one end of the 0mm, 1.5mm diameter carbon stick. Pierce it into
the fuselage bottom part as per Diagram, leaving cca 2 mm free. CA glue
in. Now you can glue the bottom part of the fuselage to the existing
assembly.
Diagram 4:
Glue the butterfly (part 4 on the plywood frame) onto the carbon rod on„ “
the bottom fuselage. Take 4 carbon sticks 1x250 mm and locate them into
the wing and the butterfly. Shorten the sticks as necessary. Now put
some weights over the wing and backbone, to secure them flat and
straight. Make sure that the fuselage is perfectly square to the wing
plane and glue the sticks on one side. Glue sticks on the other side and
also install the depron supports. The sticks (spars) should be
perfectly straight.
Install the landing gear as per Diagram. The gear legs are made of carbon

1,5x200mm, their location fixed by the slots in the fuselage and the
holes near the wing leading edge. The leg-fuselage intersection is
reinforced by the parts No. 6 from the plywood frame. The leg-axe joint
is part 7 of the plywood frame. Make sure that the geometry of the axes in
relation to the airframe is correct.
Diagram 5:
Now is the time to make the fuselage bracing. Cut your carbon sticks into
pieces as per the parts list and sharpen one end of each. The position of
the braces is marked by little holes in the fuselage, backbone and
horizontal stabilizer. All these carbon braces come in pairs (left –
right). Install the braces, begin at the butterfly and proceed to the
back of the airframe. Install both parts of a pair at once, always
controlling that the fuselage is square to the wing plane.
Always try a dry fit of each brace stick and only glue (little drop of CA)
them when satisfied.
Lastly glue the EPP triangular part into the front of the fuselage.
Diagram 6:
Now take the whole assembly from the workbench, turn it around and stand
it on the landing gear. Take the upper fuselage part and dry fit it into
the backbone slots. If it fits well, remove it and check, whether the
servo locations (marked by dotted lines cut into depron) suit well your
servo size and your preferred servo locations. If yes, cut through the
dotted line or customize the opening to the size of your servos. Glue
the EPP canopy to the fuselage (contact glue or CA). Glue the upper„ “
fuselage to the assembly. Install the remaining braces between the–
horizontal and vertical stabilizers. Make sure that the upper fuselage
is square to the horizontal plane. Install the EPP triangular part to
the front of the fuselage.
Glue the control horn (part on the plywood frame) into the rudder.
Make sure that the holes in the horn are symetrically distant from the
hinge line!
Use clear adhesive tape to attach the rudder to the vertical stabilizer.
Smear little contact glue first, this way the tape will hold very well.
Proceed in the same way with the elevator.
Diagram 7:
Install the Side Force Generators (SFG’s) and the lift tabs as per the„ “
Diagram. Install the wheel pants holders (part 8 on the plywood frame)
and the wheel pants (make sure that they do not touch ground when the
model stands on the wheels). Make sure that you don’t glue the wheels to
their axes!
Glue the small airbrakes to the elevator.

The main airbrakes: prepare the holding carbon rods (2 pairs of 0.8x100
and 2 pairs of 0.8x140) and sharpen one end of each. Pierce the rods
into the SFGs (at the dotted line locations) and CA glue. Make sure„ “
that the 100 mm rods are glued into SFGs at the very tip of the wing.
Install the airbrakes at the end of the rods (use CA).
Diagram 8:
Install the motor. Use your preferred method, the makers of the motors
often include a glassfiber firewall.
We prefer a method where the thrust angle can be adjusted when trimming
your airplane.
Diagram 9:
Install your servos and linkages (for rudder and elevator we prefer to
use the pull pull strings system, for ailerons the 1 x 160mm control–
rods). To achieve the correct geometry and be able to change the aileron
differential if necessary, we use the aileron extension servo horn
(part 5 on the plywood frame).
Trimming your Clik vo
We expect that you know how to connect the receiver to the ESC and to the
servos, the ESC
to the motor etc. If not, please refer to the respective instructions or
better ask some more
experienced friend.
For first flights, your C of G should be in the position of the strut
anchor. Set 5 deflections°
on all controls. Check all systems and go fly. To trim the plane
correctly, you have to be
indoors or it has to be absolutely calm outdoors. First, trim all
controls coarsely to make the
plane appear to fly straight. You should need about the same amount of
elevator for both
inverted and normal flight. If you have enough clearance, you may try
vertical dive to trim the
neutral elevator.
Your aileron trim should be the same in normal flight and inverted. If it
is not, you may have
a lateral balance issue. Try to move the battery pack sideways (say to
the opposite side of the
fuselage), if you can, to fix this problem.
After this, you should play with the thrust line to setup for clean and
effortless hover without
any tendency to pull out to any side. This may take a while and require“ ”
quite a few tests.
If your model needs different rudder trim for normal and inverted
flight, this may be also a thrust angle issue.
Next thing, the C of G. We prefer the plane to fly almost hands off ,“ ”
just the slightest bit of
elevator needed for level flight. Move the C of G vertically (by moving
the battery pack) to

get a perfect knife edge without any tendency to roll.
For clean rolls, without any coupling to yaw (we prefer to test this on
45 upline, like in the°
climbing parts of the reverse Cuban eight), you may want to play with
aileron differential
(different up and down deflection of ailerons). Our prototypes needed
some differential (more
up than down). To change the differential, you can use the included
extension servo arm. If your aileron pushrods are on the bottom of the
wing,
you get more differential when you use holes more to the front of the
servo arm.
For F P flying, we use about 5 throws on all controls, with 40% of°
exponential. Before
transition from level flight to the torque roll (part of the F P
sequence), we switch to
somewhat higher rate on elevator (40 45 ).– °
The rest is up to you, remember that training makes perfect!
Enjoy your new F P plane!
Your RC Factory team.
Technical specifications:
wingspan: 800 mm
lenght: 9 0 mm
AUW: 115 140 g –
motor: 20 - 60W Brushless Motor
battery: 2 - S LiPo battery pack 120 - 60mAh
SC: 4 - 12A Speed Brushless Controller
Servos: - 4 Servos 4.5 6g–
© 2011