RTS 5M10 REIMS-GUEUX MARSHAL HUT User manual

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
RTS 5M10 REIMS-GUEUX MARSHAL HUT
CONGRATULATIONS
Congratulations in choosing a unique product to enhance your slot car track
diorama. This can truly be described as a product born from a love for slot cars.
Buying this product have made you a member of a very special family, yes you are
not dealing with a faceless business, but rather a family of slot car fanatics.
We put hours of research and skill and more importantly love into our products and it
is wonderful to share our love for slot cars with you. May you enjoy the build and
have years of joy having it as part of your trackside diorama.
This product is a replica of a Reims-Gueux Raceway Marshal Hut. A number of
these structures were positioned around the track at strategic points to give the
marshals a good viewing position. A number of these were identical and we have
recreated a scale model of one that was salvaged and not demolished. We believe
that we have captured the ambiance of this iconic humble structure and believe that
it will enhance any slot car track diorama.

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WARRANTY
This product is covered by a comprehensive money-back warranty to ensure your
absolute satisfaction with your purchase.
WHO ARE WE?
This product is brought to you by racetrackscenics.com. If you have not done so
already, please visit our website today. You are also most welcome to visit the
Facebook pages “Race Track Scenics Slot Car Scenery” and “Johan Malan” to keep
up to date with the latest developments and the launching of exciting new products
that may be in the pipeline.
You can contact Kevin Sharpe on
Email: [email protected]
Text in the USA 586 549 2879
WhatsApp [phone]
for any assistance that you might require. Your feedback and a photo or two of your
trackside addition will really be appreciated. We love to share in your joy!
WHAT IS IN THE KIT?
In this kit you will find all the laser cut pieced needed to assemble this product. The
pieces are still intact in the sheets as they were cut to ensure that all the parts are
there. Some of the loose bits inside pieces may have been removed, but they are not
part of the finished product. In the section “FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF” below, you
will find diagram(s) that identify and explain each piece (component) that you are
about to assemble. In the section “PREPARING THE CUT PIECES” below, you will
learn how to proceed to prepare the pieces for assembly.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
We have specifically designed this product so that it is easy to assemble with only a
few basic tools. You will need the following:
a screwdriver
a sharp hobby knife
some glue
a few toothpicks
a few earbuds can be handy
a paintbrush and paint or a rattle can or two with spray paint.
There are really two schools of thought as to the right glue to use. Some people
prefer a rapid setting glue like most gel super glues, while others prefer a slower
setting glue like ordinary cold wood glue. Sometimes more than one part must be
assembled almost simultaneously and then a forgiving glue makes life a bit easier.
Other times you may want a quick fit and then the rapid setting glue is the obvious

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choice. Our advice is to see what works best for you, there are no right or wrong,
both types will produce a sturdy structure.
You will only need a small amount of glue and remember to look for the surfaces that
will be in contact in the end and do not only apply glue to the lugs and sleeves. The
latter restrict movement in one plane, but the glue fix it in the perpendicular plane.
Using a toothpick is a handy way to apply glue and an earbud can be used to dab
away any excess of glue (especially if you use wood glue).
If parts must be at a right angle, you can use any object to assist you in obtaining a
square finished product in the end.

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FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
Have a look at two photos of the finished product.

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Now have a look at the diagram where all the laser cut parts are shown and
numbered from Ato Q. Next, we will identify which is which and where they fit in.

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You will notice that this kit has double skin walls. The four walls are numbered
(B1 & B2) for the front wall, (C1 & C2) for the rear wall and (F1 & F2) & (G1 & G2)
for the two side walls. All of the outer skins fit into the foundation slab (A) and the
inner skins into the suspended floor (E). There is a roof (H) which is supported by
roof beams (J) and (K 1-2). There is a rear door (D), one central support (M) and
three window-sills (L 1-3). Access to the elevated hut is via a staircase at the back.
The staircase comprises two sides (N 1-2) and seven steps (P 1-7). There are also
five individual foundation footings (Q 1-5) that can be used instead of the foundation
slab (A).
PREPARING THE CUT PIECES
Firstly, remove all the laser cut parts from the sheets. The sheets can be discarded.
Clean the edges of the parts if there are any tiny bits where the parts were fixed to
the sheets. This can be done with your knife or even your thumb nail.
We recommend that you start by sanding your finished product with a very light
sandpaper to ensure a smooth finish for the end product.

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WORD OF ADVICE
We would strongly advise you to do a quick dry assembly before you start gluing the
laser cut parts together. Lay out all the parts on your work surface and make sure
that the parts are not upside down or mirrored. In most instances it will make no
difference, but in others it may be crucial to ensure a perfect product in the end.
PAINTING YOUR PRODUCT
We would strongly advise you to finish the product with paint or wood stain to make
them as appealing as possible. The parts should be primed (2 coats) and painted
before final assembly. Spray paint can also be used to get a very smooth finish. Oil
or water-based paint can be used and specialised paints like chalk paint can be used
to give unique finishes.
Generally, it is highly advisable to paint/spray before gluing. You may not be able to
get to the inside of the structure after it is glued together. Covering all the parts that
must not be painted or sprayed with the same colour can be a tedious process. Pre-
painting will avoid this process.
Please ensure that no paint clog a sleeve where a lug must fit in later. The
tolerances are often so tight that too thick a layer of paint may cause problems. It is
our experiences that a small foam roller instead of a brush, will produce a better
finish and far less clogging of sleeves.
Applying a base or undercoat normally makes life easier afterwards. Two coats of
primer are advisable because the MDF absorbs a lot of paint. Using a single colour
for the undercoat of all parts works quite well from personal experience. You can
choose the paint of your preference, whether it is oil or water based. Cleaning
brushes and rollers are just so much easier if you use a water base paint. A chalk
paste can give a unique finish to walls and give a weathered look if so desired. If you
prefer to protect the paint work of your structure you can always apply a clear spray
coat.
LET’S GET STARTED WITH THE ASSEMBLY
The assembly of this structure is fairly straight forward and should not take too long.
We are going to start the assembly by gluing the skins of the four walls together. All
of the skins have engraving that must be visible after the two skins have been glued
together. In all instances the top of the skins must be aligned. You can now proceed
the glue the following pieces together: (B1) to (B2), (C1) to (C2), (F1) to (F2) and
(G1) to (G2).
Next, you can lay the assembled front wall (B1 & B2) face down on your work
surface. Now you can glue the suspended floor (E) to the inner skin of the wall. You
will see that there are two nubs on the inner skin that will fit into the open slots at the
side of the floor. All that is needed for a proper sturdy assembly is some glue where

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any two parts touch each other. The nubs that fit into the slots stop any movement,
but the glue holds all the parts together. The parts must therefore have glue where
they touch each other (only a little bit of glue is required). Apply some gentle
pressure on the floor to ensure a snug fit. Ensure that the glued parts are true and
square to each other before the glue sets fully. Once the glue has set you can
proceed to glue the one side wall to the sub assembly. NOTE: Have a look at the
slope of the roof and ensure that you pick the correct side wall. Again, allow the glue
to set and then glue the second side wall to the assembled parts and lastly the rear
wall in the same way. Check that you assembly is square and upright as you
progress. Once you have glued all the walls to the floor you can turn the assembly
upright and make sure that all the feet touch the ground.
Now you can glue the central support(M) to the underside of the floor. Now the
completed sub assembly can be glued to the foundation slab (A). There are also five
individual foundation footings (Q 1-5) that can be used instead of the foundation slab
(A). Some of the huts had individual footings and some had a foundation slab.
Next, we will do the roof assembly. There is a central roof beam (J) that fits into the
slots of the side walls. The remaining two roof beams (K 1-2) must be glued to the
top of the front and rear walls. Have a look at the photos above for some guidance in
the correct positioning. The roof (H) fits on top of the three beams and can be glued
down. If you consider adding lights or furniture at a later stage, then the roof can be
positioned without gluing it down. Note that the roof has one side that is engraved
that must face upwards.
Next, we will tackle the staircase, the one assembly that is slightly trickier than the
rest. Place the one side (N1)on your worksurface. Proceed to glue the nubs on one
end of the threads (P 1-7) into the slots in the side on your workbench. Next, you can
consider to fit all the nubs on the other ends of the landing and treads loosely into
the corresponding slots of the second side (N2) without applying any glue. It should
now be easy to remove one after the other nub, glue it and replace it and then move
on to the next one. It is advised to start from one end and work your way to the other
end by matching nubs and slots one by one, almost like closing a zipper tooth by
tooth. Once all the nubs are snugly into their matching slots, it is time to apply some
gentle pressure on the top side to ensure a snug fit. Ensure that your staircase is
square and plumb before the glue fully sets. The staircase sub-assembly can now be
glued into the slots in the rear wall (C1).
All that still needs to be done is to glue in the rear door (D) and the three window-sills
(L 1-3)into position. The door can be glued in an open or closed position. Note that
the door has an engraved side that must face outwards. The door and sills can be
seen in the photos above.
FINISHING & BRANDING
We leave the finishing to your imagination and your taste. Do whatever you think will
transform this completed structure into an integral part of your race track diorama.

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The following artwork is supplied as part of the kit.
CONCLUSION
We sincerely hoped you have enjoyed this assembly and finishing. Please remember
to give us some feedback and either send or post some pictures of this product on
your track.