RTS 10D12C User manual

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
RTS 10D12C TARGA FLORIO SANDRO MUNARI HOUSE
CONGRATULATIONS
Congratulations in choosing a unique product to enhance your slot car track
diorama. This can truly be described as a product born from a love for slot cars.
Buying this product have made you a member of a very special family, yes you are
not dealing with a faceless business, but rather a family of slot car fanatics.
We put hours of research and skill and more importantly love into our products and it
is wonderful to share our love for slot cars with you. May you enjoy the build and
have years of joy having it as part of your trackside diorama.
On 6 May 1906 the first edition of the Targa Florio got under way. It is still
considered by many to be the first real car race and an all-time great classic. It took
place next to the sea and on the narrow winding roads of the Sicilian mountains in
Italy and it passed through a couple of towns, including Colessano. In time the
buildings at the hairpin corner in Colessano would become a world renown
landmark. The names of local racing heroes were painted on many buildings in the
town and specifically at the hairpin. The Race Track Scenics collection of Targa
Florio buildings strive to recreate the ambiance of the trackside of the famous race
track with some buildings very close to replicas and certainly all in the style of
Collessano’s architecture during the 60s and 70s of the previous century. RTS have
decided to name the different buildings in honour of Italian Targa Florio racers that
excelled over the years in the TF race. SANDRO MUNARI and his co-pilot won the
1972 TF race in a Ferrari 312 PB, shown in the image below. The second house on
the left side of the Via Isnello just after the hairpin (in the photo below), is the Sandro
Munari house.

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WARRANTY
This product is covered by a comprehensive money-back warranty to ensure your
absolute satisfaction with your purchase.
WHO ARE WE?
This product is brought to you by racetrackscenics.com. If you have not done so
already, please visit our website today. You are also most welcome to visit the
Facebook pages “Race Track Scenics Slot Car Scenery” and “Johan Malan” to keep
up to date with the latest developments and the launching of exciting new products
that may be in the pipeline.
You can contact Kevin Sharpe on
Email: [email protected]
Text in the USA 586 549 2879
WhatsApp [phone]
for any assistance that you might require. Your feedback and a photo or two of your
trackside addition will really be appreciated. We love to share in your joy!
WHAT IS IN THE KIT?
In this kit you will find all the laser cut pieced needed to assemble this product. The
pieces are still intact in the sheets as they were cut to ensure that all the parts are
there. Some of the loose bits inside pieces may have been removed, but they are not
part of the finished product. In the section “FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF” below, you
will find diagram(s) that identify and explain each piece (component) that you are
about to assemble. In the section “PREPARING THE CUT PIECES” below, you will
learn how to proceed to prepare the pieces for assembly.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
We have specifically designed this product so that it is easy to assemble with only a
few basic tools. You will need the following:
a screwdriver
a sharp hobby knife
some glue
a few toothpicks
a few earbuds can be handy
a paintbrush and paint or a rattle can or two with spray paint.
There are really two schools of thought as to the right glue to use. Some people
prefer a rapid setting glue like most gel super glues, while others prefer a slower
setting glue like ordinary cold wood glue. Sometimes more than one part must be
assembled almost simultaneously and then a forgiving glue makes life a bit easier.
Other times you may want a quick fit and then the rapid setting glue is the obvious

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choice. Our advice is to see what works best for you, there are no right or wrong,
both types will produce a sturdy structure.
You will only need a small amount of glue and remember to look for the surfaces that
will be in contact in the end and do not only apply glue to the lugs and sleeves. The
latter restrict movement in one plane, but the glue fix it in the perpendicular plane.
Using a toothpick is a handy way to apply glue and an earbud can be used to dab
away any excess of glue (especially if you use wood glue).
If parts must be at a right angle, you can use any object to assist you in obtaining a
square finished product in the end.
PREPARING THE CUT PIECES
Firstly, remove all the laser cut parts from the sheets. The sheets can be discarded.
Clean the edges of the parts if there are any tiny bits where the parts were fixed to
the sheets. This can be done with your knife or even your thumb nail. We
recommend that you start by sanding your finished product with a very light
sandpaper to ensure a smooth finish for the end product.
WORD OF ADVICE
We would strongly advise you to do a quick dry assembly before you start gluing the
laser cut parts together. Lay out all the parts on your work surface and make sure
that the parts are not upside down or mirrored. In most instances it will make no
difference, but in others it may be crucial to ensure a perfect product in the end.
PAINTING YOUR PRODUCT
We would strongly advise you to finish the product with paint or wood stain to make
them as appealing as possible. The parts should be primed (2 coats) and painted
before final assembly. Spray paint can also be used to get a very smooth finish. Oil
or water-based paint can be used and specialised paints like chalk paint can be used
to give unique finishes. This product is specifically suited for chalk paint to obtain the
correct historic appearance.
Generally, it is highly advisable to paint/spray before gluing. You may not be able to
get to the inside of the structure after it is glued together. Covering all the parts that
must not be painted or sprayed with the same colour can be a tedious process. Pre-
painting will avoid this process. Please ensure that no paint clog a sleeve where a
lug must fit in later. The tolerances are often so tight that too thick a layer of paint
may cause problems. It is our experiences that a small foam roller instead of a
brush, will produce a better finish and far less clogging of sleeves.
Applying a base or undercoat normally makes life easier afterwards. Two coats of
primer are advisable because the MDF absorbs a lot of paint. Using a single colour

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for the undercoat of all parts works quite well from personal experience. You can
choose the paint of your preference, whether it is oil or water based. Cleaning
brushes and rollers are just so much easier if you use a water base paint. A chalk
paste can give a unique finish to walls and give a weathered look if so desired. If you
prefer to protect the paint work of your structure you can always apply a clear spray
coat.
FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
Have a look at two photos of the finished product (front and rear elevations).

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Now have a look at the diagram where all the laser cut parts are shown and
numbered from Ato R. Next, we will identify which is which and where they fit in.
The front wall (A), the rear wall (B) and the side walls (C 1-2) fit into the foundation
floor (F). There are two parts for the roof (D) and (E) and a first floor (G). The louvres
(H 1-2) and window frames (J 1-2) will be used for the rear wall. The louvre door (K),
the door (L) and the louvre (M) will be used for the front wall. There is also a balcony
that is made up of parts (N), (P), (Q 1-2) and (R 1-3) that will form part of the front
wall.

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LET’S GET STARTED WITH THE ASSEMBLY
We would suggest that you complete the assembly of the front and rear walls before
you start on the main structure. On the rear wall there are two louvres (H 1-2) and
two window frames (J 1-2). The louvres can be glued to the outside, but the window
frames must be glued on from the inside. This will recess the windows and results in
some depth. See illustration below. On the front wall there are a louvre door (K)
downstairs and the door (L) on the balcony, as well as a window louvre (M). The two
doors must be glued to the inside of the front wall. They can also be glued in in a
partially open position. The window louvre must be glued to the outside of the wall. It
can also be glued in front of the opening, especially if the building is lit on the inside.
The balcony must first be assembled and can then be glued on. Start by gluing the
three wall brackets (R 1-3) into the three slots at the back of the balcony floor (P) so
that they are below the level of the floor. The front railing (N) and the two side
railings (Q 1-2) can now be glued into the slots in the floor. The completed balcony
assembly can now be glued to the front wall just below the upper door, as illustrated
above
Next you can place one side wall (C 1-2) on your work surface. The nubs at one side
of the first floor (G) can be glued into the slots of the side wall. The engraving of the
floor must face upwards. All that is needed for a proper sturdy assembly is some
glue where any two parts (walls and floors in this instance) touch each other. The
nubs that fit into the slots stop any movement, but the glue holds all the parts
together. The parts must therefore have glue where they touch each other (only a
little bit of glue is required). The nubs at the other end of the floor can now be glued
into the other side wall (C 1-2). Apply some gentle pressure on the walls to ensure a
snug fit with the floor. Turn your sub-assembly upright and make sure that the walls
and floor are square and plumb and that all the nubs of the sides touch the ground
before the glue sets.
Now you can lay the floor (F) on your work bench with the engraving facing upwards.
The nubs at the bottom of the sub-assembled front (A) and rear (B) walls, as well as
the two side walls (C 1-2) sub-assembly can now be glued into the slots in the floor
(F). Again, remember to apply some glue where the walls make contact with each
other (you will notice that the side walls fit between the front and rear walls).
All that still needs to be done is to glue the two roof sections to the walls. NOTE: If
you plan to install lights in the building this should be done before the roof is glued
down.

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FINISHING & BRANDING
We leave the finishing to your imagination and your taste. Do whatever you think will
transform this completed building as an integral part of your race track diorama.
CONCLUSION
We sincerely hoped you have enjoyed this assembly and finishing. Please remember
to give us some feedback and either send or post some pictures of this product on
your track.