RTS 4B5A LAGUNA SECA STRAIGHT ON STAIRCASE... User manual

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
RTS 4B5A LAGUNA SECA STRAIGHT ON STAIRCASE FOOTBRIDGE
CONGRATULATIONS
Congratulations in choosing a unique product to enhance your slot car track
diorama. This can truly be described as a product born from a love for slot cars.
Buying this product have made you a member of a very special family, yes you are
not dealing with a faceless business, but rather a family of slot car fanatics.
We put hours of skill and more importantly love into our products and it is wonderful
to share our love for slot cars with you. May you enjoy the build and have years of
joy having it as part of your trackside diorama.
This pedestrian bridge is inspired by the Laguna Seca Pedestrian Bridge, but the
scaled model have a simplified staircase compared to the real bridge. Sometimes
these sacrifices are needed for size and practical reasons. We do however believe
that this structure captures the ambiance of this well-known iconic landmark and as
such it will enhance each and every scaled slot car track diorama.
WARRANTY
This product is covered by a comprehensive money-back warranty to ensure your
absolute satisfaction with your purchase.

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WHO ARE WE?
This product is brought to you by racetrackscenics.com. If you have not done so
already, please visit our website today. You are also most welcome to visit the
Facebook pages “Race Track Scenics Slot Car Scenery” and “Johan Malan” to
keep up to date with the latest developments and the launching of exciting new
products that may be in the pipeline.
You can contact Kevin Sharpe on
Email: [email protected]
Text in the USA 586 549 2879
WhatsApp [phone]
for any assistance that you might require. Your feedback and a photo or two of your
trackside addition will really be appreciated. We love to share in your joy!
WHAT IS IN THE KIT?
In this kit you will find all the laser cut pieced needed to assemble this product. The
pieces are still intact in the sheets as they were cut to ensure that all the parts are
there. Some of the loose bits inside pieces may have been removed, but they are not
part of the finished product. In the section “FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF” below, you
will find diagram(s) that identify and explain each piece (component) that you are
about to assemble. In the section “PREPARING THE CUT PIECES” below, you will
learn how to proceed to prepare the pieces for assembly.
In the kit you will also find some optional pre-cut artwork printed on matt photo
paper. This can be used to brand your finished product in your preferred livery.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
We have specifically designed this product so that it is easy to assemble with only a
few basic tools. You will need the following:
a screwdriver
a sharp hobby knife
some glue
a few toothpicks
a few earbuds can be handy
a paintbrush or sponge roller and paint or a rattle can or two with spray paint.
There are really two schools of thought as to the right glue to use. Some people
prefer a rapid setting glue like most gel super glues, while others prefer a slower
setting glue like ordinary cold wood glue (PVA glue). Sometimes more than one part
must be assembled almost simultaneously and then a forgiving glue makes life a bit
easier. Gluing the 26 steps into place may take a bit of time when you do it for the
first time and a slower setting glue may just make life so much easier. Other times
you may want a quick fix and then the rapid setting glue is the obvious choice. Our

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advice is to see what works best for you, there are no right or wrong, both types will
produce a sturdy structure.
You will only need a small amount of glue and remember to look for the surfaces that
will be in contact in the end and do not only apply glue to the lugs and sleeves. The
latter restrict movement in one plane, but the glue fix it in the perpendicular plane.
Using a toothpick is a handy way to apply glue and an earbud can be used to dab
away any excess of glue (especially if you use wood glue).
If parts must be at a right angle, you can use any object to assist you in obtaining a
square finished product in the end.
FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
Have a look at a photo of the finished product.
Now have a look at the next diagram where all the laser cut parts are shown and
numbered from Ato J. We will identify each item and indicate where they fit in.

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The bridge structure consists of two sides (A 1-2), two tyre-shaped halve circles
(D 1-2), two horizontal billboards (E 1-2), a landing (B), sixteen standard threads
(H 1-16) and four special threads (J 1-4). There is a top brace (C), four retaining
walls (F 1-4) and two handrails (G 1-2).
PREPARING THE CUT PIECES
Firstly, remove all the laser cut parts from the sheets. The sheets can be discarded.
Clean the edges of the parts if there are any tiny bits where the parts were fixed to
the sheets. This can be done with your knife or even your thumb nail.
We recommend that you start by sanding your finished product with a very light
sandpaper to ensure a smooth finish for the end product.
WORD OF ADVICE
We would strongly advise you to do a quick dry assembly before you start gluing the
laser cut parts together. Lay out all the parts on your work surface and make sure
that the parts are not upside down or mirrored. In most instances it will make no
difference, but in others it may be crucial to ensure a perfect product in the end.

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Our laser cut parts are specifically cut to very fine tolerances to ensure a snug fit and
therefore it is wise to check all fits before gluing parts together. You may need to trim
a lug here and there to make assembly easier.
PAINTING YOUR PRODUCT
We would strongly advise you to finish the product with paint or wood stain to make
them as appealing as possible. The parts should be primed (2 coats) and painted
before final assembly. Spray paint can also be used to get a very smooth finish. Oil
or water-based paint can be used and specialised paints like chalk paint can be used
to give unique finishes.
Generally, it is highly advisable to paint/spray before gluing. You may not be able to
get to the inside of the structure after it is glued together. Covering all the parts that
must not be painted or sprayed with the same colour can be a tedious process. Pre-
painting will avoid this process.
Please ensure that no paint clog a sleeve where a lug must fit in later. The
tolerances are often so tight that too thick a layer of paint may cause problems. It is
our experiences that a small foam roller instead of a brush, will produce a better
finish and far less clogging of sleeves.
Applying a base or undercoat normally makes life easier afterwards. Two coats of
primer are advisable because the MDF absorbs a lot of paint. Using a single colour
for the undercoat of all parts works quite well from personal experience. You can
choose the paint of your preference, whether it is oil or water based. Cleaning
brushes and rollers are just so much easier if you use a water base paint. A chalk
paste can give a unique finish to walls and give a weathered look if so desired. If you
prefer to protect the paint work of your structure you can always apply a clear spray
coat.
LET’S GET STARTED WITH THE ASSEMBLY
Place the one bridge side (A1) on your worksurface. Select the landing (B) and glue
the three nubs on one side of the landing into the corresponding slots in the bridge
side (A1). Proceed to glue the nubs on one end of the threads (H 1-16) and the
special threads (J 1-4) into the slots in the side of the bridge. NOTE: The top and
bottom threads on each side should have a hole (J 1-4) to accommodate the feet of
the handrails. Proceed to glue the nubs on one end of the top brace (C) into the slots
in the side of the bridge.
Next, you can consider to fit all the nubs on the other ends of the landing, brace and
treads loosely into the corresponding slots of the second side (A2) without applying
any glue. It should now be easy to remove one after the other nub, glue it and
replace it and then move on to the next one. It is advised to start from one end and
work your way to the other end by matching nubs and slots one by one, almost like
closing a zipper tooth by tooth. Once all the nubs are snugly into their matching slots,

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it is time to apply some gentle pressure on the top side to ensure a snug fit. Turn
your assembled structure upwards so that it stands as it is meant to stand once
finished. Ensure that the undersides of the bridge sides make full contact with the
ground. Ensure that your bridge is square and plumb before the glue fully sets.
Next the two tyre-shaped halve circles (D 1-2), the two horizontal billboards (E 1-2)
and the four retaining walls (F 1-4) can be glued to the sides of the completed
structure as shown in the photo above. The engraving of the walls should face
outwards. The underside of the walls should all touch the ground. The halve circles
fits on top of the walls and the top of the halve circles follows the curve of the bridge
sides.
Lastly, the nubs of the two handrails (G 1-2) can be glued into the slots of the treads.
You have successfully assembled your bridge.
FINISHING & BRANDING
We leave the finishing to your imagination and your taste. Do whatever you think will
transform this into a structure that will compliment your race track diorama. We have
included branding so that you can use it to finish your bridge. We recommend that
you protect the branding with a clear spray.
CONCLUSION
We sincerely hoped you have enjoyed this assembly and finishing. Please remember
to give us some feedback and either send or post some pictures of this product on
your track.