RTS 2T17 REIMS-GUEUX COMMENTATORS LOOKOUT User manual

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
RTS 2T17 REIMS-GUEUX COMMENTATORS LOOKOUT
CONGRATULATIONS
Congratulations in choosing a unique product to enhance your slot car track
diorama. This can truly be described as a product born from a love for slot cars.
Buying this product have made you a member of a very special family, yes you are
not dealing with a faceless business, but rather a family of slot car fanatics.
We put hours of research and skill and more importantly love into our products and it
is wonderful to share our love for slot cars with you. May you enjoy the build and
have years of joy having it as part of your trackside diorama.
This product is a replica of the Reims-Gueux Raceway Commentators Lookout, or
the SPEAKERS building as it is also known, dating back to the middle years of the
previous century. The circuit was closed in 1972 and soon the buildings and
structures started to deteriorate and most, including this building, was unfortunately
demolished. Luckily we could find a number of photos to help us in recreating this
iconic structure. This building was positioned at the Start/Finish line directly opposite
the Timekeepers Building and was occupied by the radio commentators.
We believe that we have captured the ambiance of this iconic structure and is proud
that we can also give it a second life on many a slot car trackside. We believe that
this structure is one of the best replicas produced to date and a valuable contribution
to the slot car diorama world.
WARRANTY
This product is covered by a comprehensive money-back warranty to ensure your
absolute satisfaction with your purchase.

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WHO ARE WE?
This product is brought to you by racetrackscenics.com. If you have not done so
already, please visit our website today. You are also most welcome to visit the
Facebook pages “Race Track Scenics Slot Car Scenery” and “Johan Malan” to keep
up to date with the latest developments and the launching of exciting new products
that may be in the pipeline.
You can contact Kevin Sharpe on
Email: [email protected]
Text in the USA 586 549 2879
WhatsApp [phone]
for any assistance that you might require. Your feedback and a photo or two of your
trackside addition will really be appreciated. We love to share in your joy!
WHAT IS IN THE KIT?
In this kit you will find all the laser cut pieced needed to assemble this product. The
pieces are still intact in the sheets as they were cut to ensure that all the parts are
there. Some of the loose bits inside pieces may have been removed, but they are not
part of the finished product. In the section “FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF” below, you
will find diagram(s) that identify and explain each piece (component) that you are
about to assemble. In the section “PREPARING THE CUT PIECES” below, you will
learn how to proceed to prepare the pieces for assembly.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
We have specifically designed this product so that it is easy to assemble with only a
few basic tools. You will need the following:
a screwdriver
a sharp hobby knife
some glue
a few toothpicks
a few earbuds can be handy
a paintbrush and paint or a rattle can or two with spray paint.
There are really two schools of thought as to the right glue to use. Some people
prefer a rapid setting glue like most gel super glues, while others prefer a slower
setting glue like ordinary cold wood glue. Sometimes more than one part must be
assembled almost simultaneously and then a forgiving glue makes life a bit easier.
Other times you may want a quick fit and then the rapid setting glue is the obvious
choice. Our advice is to see what works best for you, there are no right or wrong,
both types will produce a sturdy structure.
You will only need a small amount of glue and remember to look for the surfaces that
will be in contact in the end and do not only apply glue to the lugs and sleeves. The
latter restrict movement in one plane, but the glue fix it in the perpendicular plane.

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Using a toothpick is a handy way to apply glue and an earbud can be used to dab
away any excess of glue (especially if you use wood glue).
If parts must be at a right angle, you can use any object to assist you in obtaining a
square finished product in the end.

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FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
Have a look at two photos of the finished product.

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Now have a look at the diagram where all the laser cut parts are shown and
numbered from Ato Q. Next, we will identify which is which and where they fit in.
You will notice the four walls (B), (C), (D) and (E) that fits into the foundation plate
(A). The floor (F) is suspended between the walls (D) and (E). On the underside of
the roof (G) is a ring beam (H). The roof (G) sits on top of the walls.
The three front windows (Q 1-3) can swing vertically open, as can be seen on some
photos. We included the lettering to spell out the name “SPEAKERS”. The
positioning of the letters is engraved on the front wall (B) directly above the opening
windows. We included individual lettering as well as connected lettering (P 1-2) to
suit your preference.
At the rear of the building is a staircase to give access to the elevated outlook. The
staircase is made up of two sides (J) and (K), a landing (L), an end gate (M) and
twelve steps (N 1-12).
In the foundation (A) and the roof (F) is a hole to accommodate a (6mm –¼”)
broadcasting mast, which is not supplied with the kit.

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PREPARING THE CUT PIECES
Firstly, remove all the laser cut parts from the sheets. The sheets can be discarded.
Clean the edges of the parts if there are any tiny bits where the parts were fixed to
the sheets. This can be done with your knife or even your thumb nail.
We recommend that you start by sanding your finished product with a very light
sandpaper to ensure a smooth finish for the end product.
WORD OF ADVICE
We would strongly advise you to do a quick dry assembly before you start gluing the
laser cut parts together. Lay out all the parts on your work surface and make sure
that the parts are not upside down or mirrored. In most instances it will make no
difference, but in others it may be crucial to ensure a perfect product in the end.
PAINTING YOUR PRODUCT
We would strongly advise you to finish the product with paint or wood stain to make
them as appealing as possible. The parts should be primed (2 coats) and painted
before final assembly. Spray paint can also be used to get a very smooth finish. Oil
or water-based paint can be used and specialised paints like chalk paint can be used
to give unique finishes.
Generally, it is highly advisable to paint/spray before gluing. You may not be able to
get to the inside of the structure after it is glued together. Covering all the parts that
must not be painted or sprayed with the same colour can be a tedious process. Pre-
painting will avoid this process.
Please ensure that no paint clog a sleeve where a lug must fit in later. The
tolerances are often so tight that too thick a layer of paint may cause problems. It is
our experiences that a small foam roller instead of a brush, will produce a better
finish and far less clogging of sleeves.
Applying a base or undercoat normally makes life easier afterwards. Two coats of
primer are advisable because the MDF absorbs a lot of paint. Using a single colour
for the undercoat of all parts works quite well from personal experience. You can
choose the paint of your preference, whether it is oil or water based. Cleaning
brushes and rollers are just so much easier if you use a water base paint. A chalk
paste can give a unique finish to walls and give a weathered look if so desired. If you
prefer to protect the paint work of your structure you can always apply a clear spray
coat.

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LET’S GET STARTED WITH THE ASSEMBLY
The assembly of this structure is really fairly straight forward and should not take too
long.
We can start by putting the side (D) on your working surface with the engraving
facing downwards. Proceed to glue the two nubs of the floor (F) into the slots of side
(D). Note: Make sure the engraving of the floor faces upwards. All that is needed for
a proper sturdy assembly is some glue where any two parts touch each other. The
nubs that fit into the slots stop any movement, but the glue holds all the parts
together. The parts must therefore have glue where they touch each other (only a
little bit of glue is required).
Next, you can glue the second side (E) to the nubs on the other side of the floor (F).
Again, ensure that the engraving is facing outwards. Apply some gentle pressure on
the two sides to ensure a snug fit. Ensure that the glued parts are true and square to
each other before the glue sets fully. This nubs at the underside of this small sub-
assembly can now be glued into the slots of the foundation (A). NOTE: Ensure that
the orientation of the foundation is correct, the mast is at the right rear of the
building. Again, ensure that the engraving faces upwards. Next the nubs of the front
(B) and rear (C) walls can be glued into the remaining slots of the foundation (A).
Again, ensure that the engraving is facing outwards.
The three front windows (Q 1-3) can swing vertically open and fits into slots in the
front wall (B) that will keep them in the open position. They can be glued in as either
open or closed.
Next the lettering (P 1-2) can be glued to the front wall (B). You can choose between
the individual lettering and the connected lettering. The latter is slightly easier to
assemble, but if you choose the individual lettering, then the engraving will assist you
to make this also easy.
Next, we will tackle the staircase, the one assembly that is slightly trickier than the
rest. Place the one side (K) on your worksurface. Select the landing (L) and glue the
three nubs on one side of the landing into the corresponding slots in the side (K).
Proceed to glue the nubs on one end of the threads (N 1-12) into the slots in the side
on your workbench.
Next, you can consider to fit all the nubs on the other ends of the landing and treads
loosely into the corresponding slots of the second side (J) without applying any glue.
It should now be easy to remove one after the other nub, glue it and replace it and
then move on to the next one. It is advised to start from one end (the landing end in
this instance) and work your way to the other end by matching nubs and slots one by
one, almost like closing a zipper tooth by tooth. Once all the nubs are snugly into
their matching slots, it is time to apply some gentle pressure on the top side to
ensure a snug fit. The nub of the end gate (M) can now be glued into the slot in the
landing (L).
Ensure that your staircase is square and plumb before the glue fully sets. The
staircase sub-assembly can now be glued to the back wall (C).

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Lastly, the roof (H) can be assembled. Note that the engraving must face upwards.
The ring beam (G) must be glued in the centre of the underside of the roof (H). The
roof can now be positioned on top of the walls. The ring beam will ensure that the
roof stays in position without gluing the roof to the walls. The roof can now easily be
removed at a later stage to gain access to the inside of the structure to add furniture
or install lights.
FINISHING & BRANDING
We leave the finishing to your imagination and your taste. Do whatever you think will
transform this completed as an integral part of your race track diorama.
The following artwork is supplied as part of the kit.
CONCLUSION
We sincerely hoped you have enjoyed this assembly and finishing. Please remember
to give us some feedback and either send or post some pictures of this product on
your track.