Sailrite Leatherwork Manual

Table of Contents
Leatherwork Safety ����������������������������������� 1
Machine Damage Prevention��������������������� 2
Workhorse®Safety Precautions ���������������� 3
Changing Motor Rotation�������������������������� 4
Workhorse Speed Settings������������������������ 5
Preparing to Sew��������������������������������������� 6
Choosing Thread Size �����������������������������������6
Needles���������������������������������������������������������7
Winding Bobbins �������������������������������������������9
Threading the Machine�������������������������������� 11
Removing & Installing Bobbin Case�������������13
Installing Bobbin in Bobbin Case �����������������14
Picking Up Bobbin Thread ���������������������������15
Using the Leatherwork ���������������������������� 16
Starting to Sew��������������������������������������������16
Regulating Stitch Length �����������������������������18
Sewing in Reverse ��������������������������������������18
Setting Equal Forward &
Reverse Stitch Length ���������������������������������18
Turning Corners ������������������������������������������18
Thread Tension Adjustment �������������������������19
Advanced Thread Tension Adjustment���������20
Adjusting Presser Foot Tension �������������������21
Removing Material From Under
the Presser Foot������������������������������������������21
Sewing Fabric ���������������������������������������������22
Leatherwork Maintenance ����������������������� 23
Lubrication ��������������������������������������������������23
Troubleshooting the Leatherwork����������� 27
Proper Needle Orientation & Installation������27
Replacing Take-Up Spring ���������������������������28
Belt Issues ��������������������������������������������������29
Material Surface Is Being Damaged ������������29
Clutch Will Not Disengage���������������������������30
Removing the Hook to Clean the Shuttle
Race Guide Shaft & Free Thread Jams �������30
Skipped Stitches������������������������������������������31
Thread Issues ���������������������������������������������33
Needle Issues ���������������������������������������������37
Bobbin Winding Issues ��������������������������������38
Leatherwork Timing ������������������������������� 39
Schematics���������������������������������������������� 49
Specifications ����������������������������������������� 63
Warranty �������������������������������������������������� 68
Sew like a pro with Sailrite®
For in-depth information on use and
maintenance of your new Leatherwork®
Sewing Machine, please refer to our free
video at Sailrite�com/leatherwork-use or
search #300526XHT at Sailrite�com�

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Leatherwork Safety
Please observe the following when using your Sailrite®sewing machine:
• Do not operate in conditions where you or
the machine are or may become wet�
• Operatethemachineonarm,level
surface with adequate room for safe
operation�
• Observe caution when placing your hands,
other body parts or clothing near any moving
parts including but not limited to the walking
foot, needle, balance wheel and belts�
• Do not run the machine without its covers in
place�
• Do not stop the movement of the balance
wheel with your hands�
• Always use the proper voltage required for
the motor�
• Do not drop the machine�
• Do not pull yourself toward the table when
using the machine as this is a tip-over
hazard�
• Wear protective eyewear when sewing
• Wear shoes when operating the foot pedal�
• Provide supervision when allowing others to
use the machine�
• Donotusethemachinearoundammable
materials�
• Do not use a plug adapter or extension cord
that bypasses the ground pin�
• Always rotate the balance wheel by
grabbing the top of the wheel and rotating
toward the front of the machine�
• Wire the light in a manner that keeps the
cord clear of belts and other moving parts�
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Nickel (Metallic), which is
known to the State of California to cause cancer� For more information go to
www�P65Warnings�ca�gov�
CHOKING HAZARD: Small parts� Not for children under 3 years� CONTAINS FUNCTIONAL SHARP
POINT� Adult supervision recommended�
Leatherwork Machine Damage Prevention
To prevent damage and keep your machine running
smoothly, please observe the following when sewing:
• Lower the presser foot before sewing (A)�
• Always rotate the balance wheel toward you (B)�
• Trapyourthreadswhenbeginningtosewtoavoidarat’snestoftangledthread(C)�
• Take-up arm (D) should be at top of stroke before lifting the foot to remove application�
• Withthemachinethreaded,don’toperatethemachinewithoutfabricunderthefoot.
B
C
1
3
2
4
D
A

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Workhorse®Servo Motor Safety Precautions
TheWorkhorseServoMotorisdesignedspecicallyforsewingmachinesand
is not warranted for other uses� Please follow the guidelines below to prevent
injury or damage to the motor/sewing machine�
• Conrmtheshaftofthemotorrotates
counterclockwise before operating the
sewing machine (See p� 4 “Changing Motor
Rotation” if the shaft rotates clockwise)�
• Do not operate the machine without the belt
covers installed�
• Do not touch any moving parts when
operating the Workhorse Servo Motor�
• Remove foot from the treadle when turning
the power ON�
• Turn the motor power switch OFF before
replacing or threading the sewing machine
needle�
• Turn the motor power switch OFF when
leaving the machine�
• When performing maintenance on the
sewing machine, turn the motor power
switch to the OFF position and remove the
power cord from the wall�
• To avoid injury or damage to the motor,
do not alter or tamper with the internal
components of the motor�
• Donotcoverthemotor’sventilation;itcan
cause the motor to overheat�
Changing Motor Rotation
Make sure the motor is always running in a counterclockwise direction (A)�
If the balance wheel is spinning the opposite direction from (5), follow the instructions below to
reverse the direction�
1� Turn motor on� The standby screen will show a “P” with a rotating dash�
2� Press the “P” button four times until the LED display reads “n3�”
3� Press the “S” button multiple times to select between “0” and “1�”
4� Select “1” and the motor will run clockwise�
5� Select “0” and the motor will run counterclockwise (this is the setting the motor should be on)�
6� Press the “P” button to save the selection of “0�”
7� Turn motor off then on�
A
5 6

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THREAD SIZE TEX SIZE NEEDLE SIZE
Gen� Purpose N/A #10 or #12
V-30 30 #12 or #14
V-46 45 #14 or #16
V-69 70 #16 or #18
V-92 90 #18 or #20
Sailrite®Lifetime (PTFE) 90 #14 or #16 (Mesh Fabric)
#18 or #20 (Dense Fabric)
Preparing to Sew
Choosing Thread Size
When sewing leather, the thread size used is generally selected for its aesthetic
look� In such cases, simply match the needle to the thread using the chart below�
If the needle or thread breaks during sewing, then it is necessary to go up in
size� If getting the desired thread tension is not possible (knot constantly shows
on the bottom) this is indicative of the thread and needle being too large�
For woven textiles, use our needle and thread recommendations available online in our “Thread & Needle Recommendation
Guide.”Youcanndtheguideoneveryfabricdetailpageorbysearching#300032XHTatSailrite.com.
SPEED SETTING WORKHORSE SPM
5 45
6 55
7 64
8 73
9 82
10 91
11 100
12 110
13 119
14 128
15 137
16 146
17 155
18 165
19 174
20 183
21 192
22 201
23 210
24 220
25 229
26 238
27 247
28 256
29 265
30 275
31 284
32 293
33 302
34 311
35 320
36 330
37 339
38 348
39 357
40 366
41 375
42 385
43 394
44 403
45 412
1� Turn motor on� The standby screen will
show a “P” with a rotating dash�
2� Press the “P” button and the display will turn
to “n0�”
3� Repeatedly press the “S” button until the
desired top-end speed is shown (5-45)�
4� Press the “P” button to save the indicated
speed�
Change the Workhorse®
Top-End Speed Settings
7

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Round Point needles are
used for canvas and soft
leather� Serv7 needles are
modiedRoundPointneedles
that have a humped scarf to
prevent skipped stitches and
reduce needle breakage�
Ball Point needles are
specicallydesignedforuse
with knit or stretchy materials�
SD1 needles are optimized
for sewing heavy, dense
assemblies�
DI needles are ideal
for working with dry, heavy or
hard leather�
Needles
Leatherwork Sewing Machines require 135x17 needles sizes #10 to #22 or
135x16 (DI) leather needles, all available at Sailrite®� A size #20 needle is
used for most medium to heavy sewing�
Needle Types
Needle Installation
Leatherwork needles are round on top, unlike home sewing machine needles� As a result, proper
installation must be exercised carefully� Improperly installed needles are the main reason users
call for help�
The needles have two distinct sides� One side has
a long channel or groove running the length of the
needle, and the other side has a short scarf (A)
(i�e�, a carved-out area) just above the needle eye�
When installed, the scarf (A) should face toward
the right as you face the front of the machine�
Ensure the needle is pushed all the way up into
the needle bar (B) before tightening screw (C)�
Round Point
CAUTION: If the needle is inserted the wrong
way, the machine will skip stitches and break
thread�
AScarf
BNeedle bar
CNeedle screw
A
8
B
C

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I
H
J
Winding Bobbins
FG
Disengage the Clutch
To disengage the machine (for bobbin winding),
pull the Posi-Pin®(A) out of the balance wheel
(B)� The balance wheel will now rotate without
operating the machine� Push the pin into the hole
at the center of the Posi-Pin nut (C) to store�
Engage the Clutch
To continue sewing, push the Posi-Pin (A)
through one of the holes in the balance wheel
(D) (any will work)� While maintaining light
pressure on the Posi-Pin, rotate the balance
wheel (E) until the Posi-Pin locks into one of
the holes in the bushing that the balance wheel
rides on� Push the Posi-Pin all the way in�
Rotation of the balance wheel will now cause
the machine to function�
Thread the Bobbin
on the Machine:
1� Thread comes off top of cone (F) to Thread
Stand arm (G)�
2� Pass through thread post (H)�
3� Wrap around bobbin tensioner (I)�
4� Run under and up through a hole in top of
bobbin (J)� Place bobbin on post and push
totheright.Holdontothreadtailbrieyand
power machine with the clutch disengaged
to wind bobbin� Stop after several rotations
andcutthethreadtailoffushwiththe
bobbin side�
5� Continue winding until the bobbin is full�
Then remove the bobbin from the winder
post by pushing the post to the left and
pulling the bobbin off� Cut the thread�
It’s faster to wind while you sew!
Run thread to the bobbin winder from an
extra cone of thread� Simply place the
second cone beside the primary cone and
lead the thread up through the same guides�
Follow normal bobbin winding instructions
but do not disengage the clutch�
CAUTION:Donotoverllbobbinandforceinto
bobbin case or the machine will not function
correctly�
E
B
C
A
A
9
D

D
E
G
H
J
F
I
K
Threading the Machine
1� Thread comes off top of cone (A) to
Thread Stand arm (B)�
2� Pass the thread through one hole in the
thread post (C) (most direct route to bobbin
tensioner) (D)� For home sewing, use the
post to hold the thread spool (p� 22)�
3� Pass through pig tail of bobbin tensioner (D)�
4� Loop through ear holes going down
through the rightmost hole, skipping
middle hole, and bringing thread around
front and down again through the leftmost
hole (E)�
5� Thread through upper tension (shown
without cover knob) (F)� Make sure lift
lever (G) is raised up to release tension
plates so thread can pass through� Be
sure to catch the hooked spring end with
the thread last�
6� Pass through take-up arm (right to left)
(H) and then under end cover (I)�
7� Pass through the needle bar thread
guide hole (J) and then down through
the needle eye from left to right (K)�
C
B
A
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10

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Removing & Installing
Bobbin Case
The bobbin case (B) is located
on the underside of the machine
beneath the presser foot (11)�
Removing — Lift the spring-loaded lever (E)
and pull the bobbin case out� With the lever held
open, the bobbin is captive in the bobbin case�
Release the lever and the bobbin will fall out�
Installing — Pull and hold the spring-loaded
lever outward to keep the bobbin from falling
out and push the case onto the axle of the gib
hook (F).Thengerofthebobbincase(G)
shouldtintotheretainingring’snotch(H)�
If the lever (E) is held up until the bobbin
case is completely installed, the lever, when
released, will lock onto the axle and there will
be no clicking sound� If the lever is released
before the bobbin case is pushed completely
in place, there is a clicking sound when the
caseispushedallthewayon.Thengerof
the bobbin case will drop into the notch in the
hook’sretainingring(H)� Bobbin thread should
loosely dangle�
BG
H
E
I
11
Installing Bobbin
in Bobbin Case
1� Insert a threaded bobbin (A) into the bobbin
case (B) as shown in image (12)�
2� Hold the tail of the thread while pushing the
bobbin into the bobbin case�
3� Pull the thread through the slit (C) in the
edge of the bobbin case�
4� Continue pulling the thread under the
tension plate (D)�
5� Snap thread into position under tension
plate and pull out about 12 to 18 inches of
thread, checking for consistent tension�
6� Holding the case with a view of the bobbin,
the bobbin should turn clockwise when pulling
on the thread tail (13)� If it is not, take the
bobbinoutandipitover.
ABobbin
BBobbin Case
CSlit
DTension Plate
ESpring-Loaded Lever
GFinger
ITension Adjustment Screw
12
A
B
D
G
CI
E
13
F

Leatherwork®Guidebook | 1615 | Sailrite�com
Picking Up Bobbin Thread
1� Hold the needle thread loosely to the right (14)� Grab the top of the balance wheel and rotate
toward the front of the machine (19) until the needle moves down and then back up�
2� As the needle nears its highest point, pull the needle thread gently� The bobbin thread should
come up through the needle hole, with the needle thread, in the form of a loop (15)�
3� Pass a small instrument (pen, seam ripper, screwdriver, etc�) under the presser foot from right to
left to pull the thread out away from the machine (16)�
NOTE: If the bobbin thread does not appear when the needle is lowered and raised, check to
make sure 5 to 6 inches of bobbin thread is hanging loosely from the bobbin case and repeat
steps 1-3 again�
4� Completed setup should look similar to (17).Nowyou’rereadytosew!
14 15 16 17
Using the Leatherwork
Leatherwork Sewing Machines arrive tuned and optimized for sewing
leather� If you want to sew other materials, you will need to make
adjustments� Refer to “Sewing Fabric” section (p� 22)�
Starting to Sew
1� Plug the machine into an outlet and switch
the Workhorse®Servo Motor on�
2� Use the lift lever (18) to raise (A) and
lower (B) the presser foot onto the
material�
3� The thread ends from the needle and the
bobbin should be behind the foot as you
start to sew� Hold them down with your
finger for the first few stitches for proper
tension�
4� To mark your starting position, you may
want to rotate the balance wheel by hand
(D) until the needle is buried in the leather�
NOTE: Always rotate the balance wheel
by grabbing the top of the wheel and
rotating down toward you (19)�
5� Press the treadle to begin sewing and
releasethetrappedthreadsaftertherst
few stitches�
ARaise B Lower
CPressure Regulating Thumbscrew
DO NOT operate the machine when threaded
without material under the presser foot (and foot
lowered)� The machine will most likely “lock up”
and be inoperable until the resulting thread jam
is cleared�
19
A B
D
C
18