Sienci Labs LongMill V1 User manual

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LongMill V1 Assembly Manual
V1

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Table of Contents
Part 1: XZ-Axis Gantry
Part 2: Y-Axis Gantries
Part 3: X-Axis Rail
Part 4: Y-Axis Rails
Part 5: Drag Chains and Wiring
Part 6: Electronics
Part 7: Table Mounting
Appendix: Unboxing
Part 1: XZ-Axis Gantry
Part 2: Y-Axis Gantries
Part 3: X-Axis Rail
Part 4: Y-Axis Rails
Part 5: Drag Chains and Wiring
Part 6: Electronics
Part 7: Table Mounting
Appendix: Unboxing

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z-axis
x-axis
y-axis
The diagram below shows the machine coordinate system of the LongMill. It’s able to move in its x, y, and
z-directions due to the rails and respective gantries it has on each of those axes. We’ll start by assembling
the xand zgantries which combine into a singular assembly; in the diagram these are coloured red and blue
respectively.
Tools you need
Before you get started, here is a list of tools you should have on hand for assembly. Most people will have these
tools in their shop:
• Metric Allen keys or a drill and Allen driver bits
• Pliers or metric wrenches
• Asmallatheadscrewdriver
• Rubber mallet (optional)
TheLongMillcomeswithalotofparts,butwe’veorganizedthemtomakeitaseasyaspossibletondandput
everything together; each kit comes with several cartons.
For the complete BOM, visit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xyy-UfH2HbzT0Ood7SpQIxwkfFexDDY
BOZeApSEc3IM/edit
Thefollowingpagesintheassemblysectionwillguideyouthroughhowallthesepartswillttogethertomake
yourLongMill.Youshouldndthateachmajorstepisself-explanatory,buttherequiredpartsandquantitieswill
still be written as an additional reference.

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Part 1
XZ-Axis Gantry

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M5-25mm boltDelrin anti-backlash nut
Parts Needed:
M5-nylock nut Locking ACME nut &
set screw
x4 x4 x4x8
Nut Assemblies
Start by opening up all the large hardware bags and spilling all the contents out onto the table. There should
be a bag full of medium-sized, long bolts and another with medium-sized nuts, this is the M5 hardware you
need.Anotheroneofthebagswillbelledwith4rectangularplasticblocks,we’llbepreparingtheseblocksfor
installing onto the XZ-axis gantry and eventually on the Y-axis as well.
Start by pressing the M5-nylock nuts into the hexagonal cutouts. Make sure that you point the round end of the
nuttowardsyou,asyouwanttherstpartofthethreadtobemetalbeforeyourboltgetstothenylonlocking
part.

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Prepare four set of both these assemblies and set them aside for later.
Your kit will come with a set of set-screws and nuts that are used to tension and reduce backlash; however
they’requiteshortandhardtogettoforadjustmentwhenyourmachineisassembled.Forthesereasons,we’d
recommend that you keep these aside and instead use some of the long M5 bolts. Feel free to install the shorter
set-screws in their place once you’ve got your machine running, if you prefer them instead.
Therewillbeanotherbaglledwithfourlargenuts,takethecontentsoutandlooselythreadallthesetscrews
into the nuts (only do 2.5 turns for now).

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Z-axis motor sub-assembly
Labeled with THREADED
Parts Needed:
Previously Assembled
3D printed Z-axis mount
132mm GT2 closed loop belt 20T 6.35mm GT2 pulley 20T 8mm GT2 pulley
M5-25mm bolt M5-nylock nut
ACME locking nut
assembly
608ZZ flange bearing
x6 x2
Steel Z-axis motor mount NEMA 23 motor
(threaded)
200mm lead screw
Get the paper-wrapped Z-motor plate, the plastic Z-axis mount, and the bags full of medium-sized bolts and nuts
from the last step. You’ll also need the motor specically labeled for the Z-axis, this one is specially threaded. It
will be labeled with a sticker or come with a laser engraved

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Start off by pushing in two M5-nylock nuts into the hexagonal holes in the 3D printed Z-axis mount. These will be
used to mount the steel Z-axis motor mount.
To the side, put the steel plate on the top of the motor, ensuring that its white connector is facing away from
the middle-sized hole on the plate. Loosely thread four M5-25mm bolts through the slots and the motor, the
plateslotsmaybealittletightbutthat’sne;we’llbeadjustingthispartandre-tighteningtheboltslaterinthe
assembly.
Make sure to keep the round part of the nut facing towards you when pushing them in.
Screw the four M5 screws into the motor. Ensure that the connector
is facing the correct direction to make wiring easier later.

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Fit the motor and plate assembly into the 3D printed Z-axis mount. If it doesn’t slide in easily, try sliding the motor
allthewayforward,andtiltingtheplatebackslightly.You’llknowthey’realignedwhentheirprolesmatchand
theylayushagainsteachother.
Get the bag with bearings in it and use two when pressing them into the top and bottom bore on your assembly.
Youshouldbeabletogetthemoneasilywithyourthumbs.Ifyoundresistance,tryadjustingthesteelplateso
that the bores on the plastic and steel line up.
Bothangesofeachbearingshouldsitushwithnogap.
Bearing on the top
Moving the motor back and forth, and tilting the plate and motor back and forth can help get this part in place.

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Using two more of the same bolts, secure the plate and the 3D printed part together. These should thread all the
way through to the nuts that you placed earlier in the plastic mount.
Bearing on the bottom
Mount the steel plate to the 3D printed part.

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Next,slidetheshortendoftheleadscrewupthroughtheangebearings.Itshouldslideinwithlittleforce;if
you’re having trouble then try wiggling the lead screw back and forth gently.
One of the long boxes is lighter than the other, it will contain the drag chains, lead screws, and the motor cables
(wrapped in paper). The drag chains and motor cables can be set aside until the end of the assembly. Get the
shortest lead screw that’s hiding in the paper wrap on one end, as well as an ACME locking nut assembly from
before. Thread the nut about an inch and a half down the length of the lead screw. Make sure the nut still has the
M3 screw for later locking it in place.

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Getthebagwithabeltandtwopulleys.You’llndthatonlyoneofthepulleyswillbeabletotoverthelead
screwbutyou’llrsthavetounscrewthesetscrewsalittlewiththeincludedAllenkey.Orientthepulleysothat
thebaseisushwiththeendoftheleadscrewthentightenthescrewsintoplace.
You might have to adjust the locking nut to make the lead screw and the top of the pulley ush.
Use an Allen key to tighten the set screws to hold the lead screw.

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Once the pulley is secure, twist the ACME locking nut in from the other side so that the pulley and the nut are
sandwiching the two bearings. Once in place, tighten the M3 screw on the nut to hold it in place and ensure
there’snoplayupanddown.Adjustandtightenifnecessary.
To put the belt into place: loosen the second pulley set screw, wrap the belt around it, slide the motor toward the
leadscrew,thenwrapthebeltaroundtherstpulleyandinstallthesecondpulleyontothemotorshaft.
This step keeps the lead screw constrained in the z-axis.

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Thebaseofthesecondpulleyshouldbeushwiththetopofthemotorshaftwhentightened.Makesuretoline
uponeofthesetscrewswiththeatpartofthemotorshafttoprovideextraholdingstrength(asshowninthe
photo).
Next, make sure that the belt is tight around the two pulleys by pulling back the motor in the slot then tightening
the M5 bolts that are holding it in place.
Loose belt Tight belt

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M5-25mm bolt
M5 washerV Wheel
XZ-gantry assembly
Anti-backlash assembly
M5-nylock nutEccentric nut
x12x12 x12
x2
x2
x2
Parts Needed: Previously Assembled
XZ-axis gantry sub-assembly
YoushouldndtheXZ-gantryassemblyinalabelledbubblemailer.Onceyoutakeitout,you’llseethere’sasmall
steel plate (z-gantry) attached to big steel plate (x-gantry) via two sliding rails. First, check that the movement
of your z-gantry is smooth by moving it up and down by hand. There should be no binding and the gantry should
move relatively smoothly.
Gantry should move smoothly with no binding. Move up and down for a minute if tight.

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After this, make a small assembly with the wheel going onto the bolt, followed by a washer (pictured). There will
be 12 of these sets total. It’s very important that the washer is in the correct place, as it keeps the wheel from
rubbing against the gantry, as well as providing the correct spacing between the gantry and the lead screw. You’ll
need four of these assembled sets for now.
Settheassemblytothesideandgetthebagfullofmedium-sizedbolts,washers,andthev-prolewheels.Spilling
out the wheels, if you look down the center-hole you’ll notice that they have a bronze-coloured inner ring which
can sometimes off-center (pictured). Use the included small Allen key from the belt assembly to move the inner
ring back into the center.

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Twisttwoofthev-wheelsetsintotheeccentricnutsfromtheotherside.Thesedon’tneedtobetightyet,sojust
attach them by hand for now.
Make sure to have the eccentric nuts in the right holes, and that the bore is sitting inside the hole.
Install the rst two v-wheels from the other side.
You’ll also need two of the medium-sized M5 nuts from the last step and you’ll also need to grab the bag of
eccentric nuts. These come in a small bag of 6 and are very odd looking so they should be easy to identify.
If you move the z-gantry to the middle on the XZ-gantry assembly, you’ll notice 4 holes in a rectangular formation
on the large steel plate. The 4 sets of wheel assemblies go into these holes from behind, the bottom two using a
regularnutandthetoptwousinganeccentricnut.Startbyttingtheeccentricnutsintothetoppairofholes.The
round part of the bore should sit inside of the hole, with the hex part facing out.
If you have a hard time getting the nuts in, we recommend tapping them in with the back of a screwdriver or other
dullobject.Thiswillhelpcleartheexcesspaintthatmightstillremaininthehole.

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These are the two holes which we’ll put the next two v-wheels into.
Install the v-wheels, ensuring that the washers are in place as well.
Now attach the bottom two v-wheel sets. These attach with regular M5-nylock nuts and need to be tightly
fastened into place. You can do this with a size 4 Allen key and an 8mm wrench or pliers.

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Tighten the wheels until snug.
All of your wheels should be facing the same way.
Once complete, all of your wheels will be facing the backside of your gantry.
Check to make sure that each wheel turns smoothly.

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Two holes for mounting the anti-backlash nut block.
Tighten until snug, but do not overtighten.
There are two anti-backlash assemblies that attach to the XZ-gantry assembly.
TherstonewewillassemblegoesontheX-gantry.
Use two M5-25mm bolts (the same ones used to make the v-wheel sets) to mount the nut block.
Make sure that the M5 nuts are facing outwards (pictured) so that you can see them. The block
shouldn’t betighteneddownreallyhard,justfastenituntilit’ssnug.