Spa-Quip SP601 Supplement

Report No : TEC135
www.spa-quip.co.nz
P.O. Box 302-114, NHPC, Auckland, N.Z.
Tel: [phone], Fax: [phone]
SP601
Installation & Service Manual
Summary
The SP601 controller can be installed and configured in a number of ways.
Information for the initial setup, troubleshooting and after sales servic
e of the product
is detailed for use by pool builders and approved service agents.
Date : March 2006
Issue : Two
Page 1 of 25 Pages
Circulation:
Peter Ranyard Steve Bloxham
Gary Dryden Craig Ashdown
Les Hughson Shane Shaw
Arjan Witberg Graeme Haley
Ken Whines Jamie Galea
©
Author
Steve Bloxham B.E.
R & D Engineer
Ltd
Approved For Circulation
Les Hughson, B.Eng
R & D Manager

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 2
Contents
SP601 Description..........................................................................................................3
Model Variations.............................................................................................................4
Installation Guide ...........................................................................................................5
Dip Switch Settings ...................................................................................................5
PCB Sockets .............................................................................................................5
SP601 Specifications and Outlet Loading....................................................................6
Q601-30 3.0kW version ..................................................................................................7
General Installation Instructions...................................................................................7
Plumbing ...................................................................................................................7
Electrical....................................................................................................................8
System Components......................................................................................................9
Water Detection ........................................................................................................9
Thermal Cut-out ........................................................................................................9
Temperature sensor................................................................................................10
Installing an In Pool Temperature Sensor...............................................................11
Spa Power Variable Colour Light (SPVCL) .............................................................11
Spa Power Single Colour Light (SPSCL) ................................................................12
Spa Power Variable Speed Blower (SPVSB)..........................................................12
Circulation Pump.....................................................................................................12
Plumbing for Circulation Pumps..............................................................................13
Ozone Systems.......................................................................................................14
AMP Plugs ..............................................................................................................15
Diagnostics...................................................................................................................16
Troubleshooting ...........................................................................................................18
Part Replacements .......................................................................................................19
Heater Tube ............................................................................................................19
Water Sensor ..........................................................................................................20
Circuit Board ...........................................................................................................21
In Element Temperature Sensor .............................................................................22
Frequently Asked Questions.......................................................................................22
Warranty Information ...................................................................................................23
Identification.................................................................................................................24
Part Numbers for Spares Ordering..........................................................................24
Contact Details .............................................................................................................25
Apendix
Wiring Diagram
Ozone Installation Diagram
User Guide

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 3
SP601 Description
The SP601 is a microprocessor based spa pool controller capable of implementing the
many features of an intermediate level spa pool. It offers the user complete control of
the following equipment via a poolside control panel:
• 1 x single pump + Aux load OR 1 x two speed pump
• Vairable speed blower (if Aux load not fitted)
• Small 24hr circulation pump *
• Ozonator *
• LED pool light
• Pool temperature
• Heating mode
• Filtration cycle
• Clean up cycle
* These are controlled automatically, so no user controls are provided.
In addition sleep times can be programmed via an optional, control box mounted clock.
Inside every SP601 is a 1.5kW, 2.0kW or 3.0kW flouropolymer coated element, an over
temperature cut-out device, a temperature sensor, a water sensor, and a controller
circuit board which includes an isolating transformer. To install the unit, a power supply
and digital switch are needed along with a suitable pump to circulate water through the
heater.
Initial setup of the unit can be as simple as setting the target pool temperature. The
unit’s sleep time, filtration function and heating mode can also be adjusted, if desired,
refer to the User Manual for full details.
Further customisation of the unit can be achieved by
adjusting the ‘Dip switch’ settings, which are located on the
controller circuit board. Features such as load shedding
(less / more), temperature sensor location (heater / pool),
main pump (1spd / 2spd), circulation pump (none / fitted)
can be altered at the flick of a switch. Refer to the setup
guide in the appendix. The pool builder / installer must
ensure these settings match the actual set up of the
system.
Each SP601 normally comes with a temperature sensor that is fitted to the heater
assembly. Alternatively an optional in-pool temperature sensor can be fitted instead.
The in-pool temperature sensor provides more accurate control of the pool temperature
and is effected less by variations in operating conditions (See the temperature sensor
section for more detail.) Both temperature sensors incorporate a solid-state digital
sensor that is accurate to 0.5°C. Only one sensor can be connected at a time and the
temp sense DIP switch must be set apppropriatly to tell the controller which is fitted.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 4
The water resistant poolside control panel features a moulded or webbed waterproof
membrane and a polycarbonate overlay that is resistant to pool chemicals. It contains an
alarm beeper, soft touch keys and a three digit LED temperature display. All user
controls are on this panel except sleep time adjustments, which can be done using the
optional sleep control clock that may be fitted to the control box itself.
Model Variations
The improved design of the SP601 means that all the output sockets are included in
every model. The model numbers are explained below.
Q601XX-XX
601 Controller
Cordset/Voltage
Element wattage
AU
Australian / NZ model
220-240V, supplied with
AS/NZ corset (10 or 15A)
15
20
30
1.5kW
2.0kW
3.0kW
JP
Japanese model
200V, no cordset
No
Sufffix
International model
220-240V, no cordset
The output sockets are described below, please note that not all outputs can be used at
the same time.
Pump 1 This pump is normally used to power the pool’s jets and circulate water through
the filter and heater. The controller will run this pump automatically as required when in
auto mode. Alternatively, this pump can also be run manually using the touch pad.
Either a 1 speed pump or a 2 speed pump can be connected to this socket, either pump
will use the same AMP plug. Use the DIP switch settings to set the main pump outlet for
a 1 or 2 speed pump. If a circulation pump is installed, Pump 1 will revert back to a
simple on/off or high/low/off pump under user control.
Aux or Ozone (2spd pump) The options for an auxiliary load will depend on Pump 1. If
a 2psd pump is installed (without a circ pump) this socket will be used to run an
ozonator. If a 1spd pump is used and no SPVSB is fitted, then this output can be
switched, allowing the installation of an auxiliary on/off pump or blower, etc.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 5
SPVSB This socket is always powered (except for error conditions) and so can only be
used for a Spa Power Variable Speed Blower (SPVSB).
Circ A small circulation pump can be installed which will circulate water through the
heater, filter and ozonator. This will be used instead of Pump 1 to automatically heat
and filter the pool water. This is typically run for 24 hours a day but a sleep timer can
limit this time to increase pump life and reduce running costs. If this pump is installed,
the circ pump DIP switch must be set to yes (fitted).
Ozone (Circ Pump) Use this socket to connect an ozonator if a circ pump is installed,
regardless of Pump 1 type.
Ozone (1spd Pump) If a 1spd pump is installed as Pump 1 and there is no circ pump
installed, the ozonator should be connected to this socket.
Use the table to see where the
ozonator should be installed.
Installation Guide
Refer to “SP601 Setup Guide” in the appendix for complete instructions.
Dip Switch Settings
PCB Sockets
There are three round “mini-din” connectors situated at the top
right of the SP601 PCB. They are provided so that optional
equipment (SPVCL, temp sensor, SPVSB) may be connected to
the system during installation or at a later date. It is important
that the power to the SP601 be disconnected when connecting
or disconnecting any peripheral equipment to reduce ESD or
transient damage to the equipment and also to reduce the risk of
electrocution.
Note that only one temperature sensor should be connected at
any time. Either an ‘in-heater’ temp sensor or an ‘in-pool’ temp
sensor but not both at the same time.
Pump 1 One Speed Two Speed
Circ None Fitted None Fitted
Fit Ozonator to
this socket Ozone (1spd) Ozone (circ)
Aux Ozone
(circ)
LED
LIGHT
POOL
TEMP
SENSOR
BLOWER
CONTROL
LOAD SHED -
TEMP SENSE -
MAIN PUMP -
CIRC PUMP -
LESS
HTR
1 SPD
NO
MORE
POOL
2 SPD
YES
POOLSIDE
CONTROL PANEL
(SWITCH)
HEATER
WATER
SENSOR
SLEEP
CONTROL
CLOCK
HEATER
TEMP
SENSOR
DIP SWITCH
SPVCL TEMP SPVSB

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 6
SP601 Specifications and Outlet Loading
Specifications
SP601 dimensions 360mm x 220mm x 95mm
Heater tube pipe diameter 50mm
Heater pressure, max (head of water) 300kPa (30m)
Temp – max controlled 41.5°C
Temp – thermal cut out 50°C +/- 3°C
Temp – max ambient 40°C
Mains cord length 5m
Rectangular Pool side touchpad – face 118mm x 65mm x 6mm
Rectangular Pool side touchpad – body 92mm x 40mm x 17mm
Rectangular Recommended switch hole See diagram
Oval Pool side touchpad - face 112mm x 49mm x 4mm
Oval Pool side touchpad - body 88mm x 22.5mm x 19mm
Oval Recommended switch hole See diagram
Switch lead length 3m
Supply requirements (Max total loading)
1.5kW models 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 10A
2.0kW models 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 15A
3.0kW models 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 15A
Max Outlet Loading 1.5kW, 2.0kW & 3.0kW
Pump socket 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 10A
Aux socket 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 10A
SPVSB 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 7.5A
Circ 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 2.5A
Ozone 220-240V, AC, 50-60Hz, 2.0A
To prevent early system failure the sum of the outlet loadings and heater at any
time should not exceed the ‘Max total load’. Use the loading calculator to check the
system in question.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 7
Q601-30 3.0kW version
Care must be taken when installing a 3.0kW version of the SP601 controller. The
system is designed as 15A max. The element will draw 12.5A of current (at 240V)
leaving only 2.5A for a pump to flow water through the heater tube. For this reason the
DIP switch settings must be:
The temp sensor can be either in element or in pool. With these DIP switch settings the
heater will only operate with the pump in low speed, keeping the system to 15A max. If
any other load is turned on, SPVSB or pump on high speed, the element will turn off.
The choice of two speed pump is limited to 2.5A on low speed. The pump and heater
currents can be out of phase, meaning that a pump with a current rating of 3A running
with a heater of 12.5A may be inside the 15A limit. To be sure, measure the current with
an ammeter. For this reason all of Spa-Quip’s two speed pumps will be suitable in this
configuration.
General Installation Instructions
Plumbing
1. The heater should be plumbed so the water flows past it from left to right when
horizontally mounted and bottom to top when vertically mounted. IMPORTANT: If
mounted vertically, the water sensor MUST be at the top.
2. When connecting pipework to the heater make sure the 'O' rings are properly seated
in the mac union fitting. Hand tighten only. Using tools will distort the fittings. Care
must be taken to ensure that all joins are inline, otherwise leaks may occur.
3. Make sure the controller is mounted securely so that vibration is minimised.
4. It is recommended that the pipework has shut off valves so the controller and pump
can be removed for service without loss of water.
5. Pressure test the installation to check for leaks.
6. Support all pipework to prevent sagging and to prevent movement when pumps turn
on or off.
7. Insulate all pipework to decrease heat loss.
Refer to the ‘Circulation pump’ and ‘Ozone system’ sections of this manual for
information regarding the installation of those systems.
ON
1
2
3
4
More Loadshedding
2 speed pump
Circ pump off

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 8
Electrical
1. The spa pool must be connected to a suitable weather protected supply, equipped
with a double pole isolating switch, which is of the correct rating and complies with
the local wiring regulations. When installing refer to your local wiring code. In
particular refer to ECP2 and ECP25 (AS / NZ). Or EN 60364-4-1 and EN 60364-7-1
(EU). The system must be installed in such a way that live parts are not accessible
by a person in the pool.
2. Ensure the system is protected by an RCD.
3. It is recommended that signal and power wiring be separated to prevent interference
and that the unit is supplied from a dedicated power circuit.
4. Loop wires before they enter the unit to prevent water running down them and into
the unit.
5. Check all connections are correct and tight.
6. Check that the unit and supply are not overloaded. Use the loading calculator for
details.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 9
System Components
Water Detection
A water detection system is used to tell the controller when the heater tube is flooded
with water and therefore when it is safe to turn the element on. Water detection is
achieved by optical means, where an optical bolt (water sensor) is mounted in the
element assembly. Inside the optical bolt is a light source and a light detector.
When the tip of the optical bolt is
surrounded by air, the light emitted by
the light source is reflected back to the
light detector as the tip acts like a
mirror.
The mirroring effect of the tip is lost
once submerged and the detector
receives no light.
The optical bolt has many advantages over traditional pressure switches and flow
switches; there are no moving parts or adjustments required. Once installed, it is very
robust and offers a long service life. The optical bolt is also less sensitive to collecting
hair and debris. However care must be taken to ensure that air is not trapped in the
heater tube during normal operation. This is especially important when low flow rate
pumps are used (e.g. low flow circulation pumps), as they may not produce sufficient
water flow to clear air from the heater tube. See the ‘Circulation pump’ section for more
information.
The water sensor is connected to the SP601 PCB. Additional circuitry is included on the
PCB to check that the water sensor is connected and is functioning correctly.
Thermal Cut-out
Each SP601 contains a thermal cutout device (also known as a klixon). It is an electro-
mechanical device that acts as a switch. When it is heated above 50°C +/-3°C it
switches off creating an open circuit. When it cools below 38°C it switches on and
creates a short circuit.
Light
detector
Light
source

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 10
It is placed in series with the heating element and tightly coupled (thermally) to the brass
element boss. The element will then be switched off if the brass element boss gets too
hot.
There is also an associated electronic detection circuit that is used to sense if power is
getting to the element. If the thermal cutout has operated the circuit will sense a lack of
power and the controller will fault (Error 6). The controller will not attempt to recover
from this condition, it will need to have the power turned off and back on again to clear
the fault once the thermal cutout has cooled below 38°C.
Temperature sensor
The SP601 comes with a temperature sensor built into the
element assembly which communicates with the controller via a
data link. It is housed in a tubular pocket that extends into the
heater tube’s water flow. The temperature sensor is sealed into the pocket and plugs
into the SP601 PCB. This sensor configuration is known as ‘in-heater’ temperature
sensing.
‘In-heater’ temperature sensing is the most convenient method of sensing the pool’s
water temperature as it is built into the controller, however it is not the most accurate. It
will generally provide good temperature regulation of the pool if used in conjunction with
a high flow rate pump and good pool insulation.
A large hysteresis is required if an In Heater sensor is used. Here the pump and
element are turned on when the sensed temperature is below the target temperature by
the hysterisis amount and turned off when up to temperature. A large hysteresis is
required because the water in the heater will cool down when the pump is off at a
different rate to the main body of water in the pool. If the pipe work is poorly insulated
the system can cycle rapidly (thermally) resulting in the pump & element turning on and
off frequently thus shortening equipment life and irritating the user. If the pipe work or
pool cabinet is well insulated, the heater does not cool down much below the pool
temperature and can result in poor temperature control of the pool.
A better method exists. It is called ‘in-pool’ temperature sensing. In this method a
temperature sensor is mounted in the pool shell so that it is able to directly sense the
pool water temperature. This is a far more accurate method of detection and allows the
use of tighter hysteresis in the temperature control software. It is much less affected by
differing insulation designs and ambient temperatures.
‘In-pool’ temperature sensors use the same digital temperature sensing device as the
‘in-heater’ sensors. For accurate sensing of the pool water the digital sensor in the ‘in-
pool’ sensor needs to be tightly coupled (thermally) to the pool water and insulated from
any other ambient temperature effects i.e. under skirt ambient. This is achieved by
mounting the sensing device to a stainless steel disk and then packing the case of the
sensor with insulation. Additional closed cell foam insulation (supplied) must then be
placed around the sensor when mounted in situ.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 11
Installing an In Pool Temperature Sensor
The new design of In Pool temperature sensor installs in the
same manner as the existing products. Fit the body (number 1
in the diagram) into the hole in the shell and secure with the
lockring (2). Use silicone or similar for a water proof seal. Slide
in the sensor slug (3) into the body, there should be enough
silicone grease to make it water tight.
It is important that the foam plug is
pushed as far as it will go into the body.
Fit the large foam insulation over the
entire assembly. The finished installation should look like the
picture on the right, with the sensor insulated from the
underskirt ambient temperature. This will help give an accurate
measurement of the water temperature.
Spa Power Variable Colour Light (SPVCL)
All SP601 controllers can operate one ‘Spa Power Variable Colour Light’ (SPVCL).
Utilising the latest in efficient LED lighting technology, the SPVCL offers long life and a
range of vibrant colours to make any pool look stunning. The SPVCL is controlled via
the controller’s poolside touchpad. Installation is as per a standard 2.5 inch pool light.
Features
• Energy efficient design. Maximum
12V power drawn is approx 1W
• Light output exceeds that of a typical
9W bulb using filter lenses
• Typical LED life of 50,000hrs to
100,000hrs compared to a normal
incandescent bulb life of between
5,000hrs to 15,000hrs
• Energy efficient design means the SPVCL runs far cooler than a normal bulb
• Perfectly matched primary colours support smooth colour mixing
1 2
3
4

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 12
Spa Power Single Colour Light (SPSCL)
For an alternative lighting option, a blue or white coloured light is available. This will
install and operate in the same way as its variable colour cousin.
Spa Power Variable Speed Blower (SPVSB)
All SP601 controllers can control one ‘Spa
Power Variable Speed Blower’ (SPVSB). The
SP601 will automatically sense that a SPVSB
has been plugged in and will make the
variable speed functionality available on the
touch pad.
The cleverly designed SPVSB has been
produced to accompany the latest Spa Power
range of controllers. It contains all the
required speed control circuitry and simply
plugs into a controller for both power feed and
speed control. The SPVSB is then controlled
via the controller’s poolside touchpad, and the user can control the airflow in the pool
simply by pressing a button.
SPVSBs are available in two models: with or without a fitted power supply. Those
without (Q5602-XXX) are intended for use only with a Spa Power controller. Where as
those with a power supply (Q5603-XXX) can be used either with a controller or in a
stand-alone configuration with their own dedicated touchpad.
Circulation Pump
The use of small circulation pumps that run for long periods of time with low flow rates is
becoming more common in the spa pool industry. These pumps are used to circulate
water through the pool’s filter, heater and ozone systems and offer low power usage and
silent operation. They are generally between 80W and 375W and have flow rates of up
to approx 200l/m.
All SP601 controllers have been designed to operate in conjunction with small
circulation pumps but care must be taken to ensure that the following points are
considered.
1) Air must not collect in the heater tube.
The water detector may sense any air trapped in the heater tube, causing the controller
to think the heater tube is empty and resulting in it faulting with ‘Err 1 Prime Failed’.
Also froth in the heater tube may still activate the water sensor while failing to cool the
element boss, resulting in thermal cut-out operation (Error 6).
2) There must be sufficient water flow through the heater tube.
If the water is not flowing through the heater tube fast enough then the heat energy will
build up in the water and will lead to large temperature rises and at worst will cause the
thermal cutout to activate. This will lead to an Error 6 condition and the controller will
beep. The controller will then need to be switched off and back on once the heater tube
water temperature has dropped below 38°C. The thermal cutout will automatically reset
below this temperature.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 13
The thermal cutout is set to operate at 50°C +/- 3°C. This gives a maximum allowable
element boss temperature of 47°C. If the pool is set to 41.5°C there is room for a
maximum water temperature rise of 5.5°C. From this requirement the pump must be
carefully matched to the size of the element. If the pump is too weak, the unit may fail
under thermal cutout condition (Er6).
Heating water with low flow rates may cause the layer of water in contact with the
element to boil. As the water boils it changes state and produces bubbles. These
bubbles must be able to escape from the heater tube or they may gather and finally be
detected by the water sensor causing a no water error.
Due to the temperature rise caused by low flow rates, it is advised that an ‘in-pool’
temperature sensor be used. This will provide the required accurate temperature
control of the pool.
When using an injector to introduce ozone gas into the circulation pump’s water circuit, it
is necessary to consider the water flow rates, both in the heater tube and the ozone
injector. It is also important to situate the injector ‘down stream’ of the controller for air
bubble reasons. See ‘Ozone systems’ for more detail. In order to maintain sufficient
water flow it is recommended that an injector bypass system be implemented.
Plumbing for Circulation Pumps
It is essential that no air bubbles can collect in the heater tube.
The following plumbing configurations have proven to be helpful.
• Use step down offset adapters, like that shown on the right hand side of the diagram
over the page, do not use those shown on the left. This will allow any air to flow out
of the heater tube and not collect around the water sensor or…
• Mount the controller on a slight incline so that the water outlet is raised. This will aid
the air to flow out of the heater tube.
• Plumb the controller with 45°or 90°50mm elbows (facing up) then step the pipe
down to the required diameter.
Sectioned drawing of a heater tube with two different
outlet adapters
√
√√
√
X

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 14
Other circulation pump tips
• Like all equipment, circulation pumps have a limited service life that is affected by
the environment that they work in. If a pump is used 24hrs/day it will wear out faster
than if it were used 12hrs/day. On SP601-T models the circulation pump is turned
off when the system is asleep. This feature may be used to extend the circulation
pump’s life.
• Circulation pumps are designed for low flow rates so they have small impellers that
are easily blocked. Be careful not to allow debris to enter the pump when changing
a filter or use the pump without a filter.
• Due to low flow rates, it is recommended that a skimmer type spa filter be used to
allow the pump to remove floating matter from the pool’s surface.
• Make sure the pump is not starved for water flow as cavitation and/or air locking can
occur.
Ozone Systems
All SP601 controllers are equipped with a choice of ozonator outlet sockets. The correct
socket must be used to ensure the ozonator comes on when the appropriate pump is
running. This will provide ozonation of the pool water during the filtration period. See
‘Model Variations’ for more details.
Ozone background information
• Ozone does not affect the pH balance.
• Ozone reduces total dissolved solids in water.
• Ozone helps to reduce the amount of chemicals required to treat a pool.
• Ozone kills bacteria, viruses, cysts, yeast, moulds, and mildew.
• Ozone is a gas that is generated from fresh air and is dissolved into the pool water.
• Ozone has more oxidising potential than chlorine gas and bromine.
• Ozone can be generated by UV light or corona discharge (CD). Corona discharge
uses a high voltage to produce a spark. Generally CD ozonators produce more
ozone than UV ozonators. Both types have a limited service life.
When using an injector to introduce the ozone gas into the water, it is recommended
that a water by-pass be used parallel with the injector. See diagram above. A by-pass
Injector
Ball valve

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 15
will allow the water flow rate through the injector to be tailored (by adjusting the ball
valve) so that the correct ozone gas flow and therefore gas to water mixture is delivered.
It will also ensure the water flow rate through the heater is maximised. Refer to your
ozonator’s installation instructions for more information.
The best use of any generated ozone gas, is to dissolve it into the water and try to keep
it dissolved in the water as long as possible.
Tips:
• A low water flow rate through the injector produces a low gas flow rate and results in
higher ozone gas concentration and better ozone absorption into the water.
• Also a low injector water / gas flow rate produces small fine bubbles that are
suspended in the water. This is better than large bubbles that rise straight to the
pool’s surface and let the gas escape.
• Ozone production is dependant on the condition of the air fed into the ozonator. Try
to keep the air clean, dry and cool. Try to pipe the air into the ozonator’s input from
outside the spa shell.
• Be careful of ozone when in the gaseous state as it will damage unsuitable plastics
very quickly.
• Ozonators (UV and CD) have a service life. This can be prolonged if they are not
used 24hrs a day. Most CD systems producing 50mg/hr of ozone gas need to run
for about 4-8hrs per day at most to treat the water.
• Some ozonators require a minimum air flow rate to cool the ozone unit. Refer to
your ozonator’s instructions for more detail. Some ozonators require the injector to
produce a slight suck when blocked off with a finger whereas others require a
specific flow rate that can be estimated by timing the injector sucking water out of a
bottle.
AMP Plugs
All SP601, SP800 and SP1200 controllers are fitted with AMP style
connectors. All peripheral equipment can be ordered with AMP cordsets
for use with these controllers. Each cordset will have an identiying label
on the side. It is important that the locking mechanism is engaged on the
AMP plug to secure the connection and to protect against mechanical
vibration and water ingress. The plug is pushed home and the plastic
tabs engage onto the socket as shown on the right. All plug and socket
pairs should have a silicone gasket seal to protect against water and any socket without
a plug should have a bung as shown in the picture on the right.
X
√
√√
√

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 16
Diagnostics
The SP601 controller has extensive self-diagnostic capabilities. In the event of a
problem it will sound an alarm (beep) and indicate an error number according to the
nature of the problem. Pushing the Air/Aux button will mute the alarm but if left alone it
will stop after four minutes. The error numbers and their meanings are listed below.
Error 1 (H2O) = PRIME FAILED
This is a special case in that it is not a latching error. It is not necessarily a problem with
the SP601 itself but indicates that no water is being detected in the heater. The LED
display will show “H2O”. Pressing the Pump button will run the pump associated with
the heater (Pump1 or Circ Pump) for 10 or 60 seconds respectively, to try to flood the
heater tube. Normal operation will resume if successful. If unsuccessful, Error 1 (H20)
will be indicated again.
• Check valves and jets are open correctly, filters are not blocked, pumps are working
and that there is enough water flow through the heater tube.
• Check that air is not trapped in the heater tube. See the ‘Circulation Pump’ section.
• Check for leaks (water or air) in pipework, O-rings, seals and loose fittings. If there
is air around the water sensor the controller will think the heater is empty. This may
occur if there is a small leak so that the water drains out of the heater over time.
• If there is water flow then the water sensor may be dirty or faulty. Remove and
inspect, replace if necessary. Check the water sensor to circuit board connection for
water, corrosion or fouling.
• When all other options have been exhausted change the circuit board.
Error 2 is not used.
Errors 3-8 are latching errors.
Operation will stop and will not continue until the controller is reset (switched off and on
again at the main power supply).
Error 3 = STUCK BUTTON
This error indicates that one of the buttons in the control panel is stuck or has been held
down for more than one minute. This may be caused by water getting into the panel or
by damage to the control panel or its cable, or by the pool cover pressing on the
touchpad.
• Inspect the control panel for damage; test the operation of each button by checking
that they all feel the same.
• Check the control panel to main circuit board connection and the cable itself for any
damage or corrosion.
• Disconnect the control panel and run the controller for one minute. If it cuts out on
Error 3, then the problem is in the controller.
• When all other options have been exhausted change the main circuit board.
Error 4 = NO WATER SENSOR
This error indicates a problem with the optical water sensor in the heater. It may be
caused by the sensor being disconnected or by damage to the sensor.
• Check the water sensor to circuit board connection for water, corrosion or fouling.
• Remove the water sensor and inspect, replace if necessary.
• When all other options have been exhausted change the circuit board.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 17
Error 5 = OVERTEMPERATURE
This error indicates that the digital temperature sensor in the heater or pool has
detected a temperature of 45°C or more. This is not necessarily a problem with the
SP601 itself. It might be caused by excessive pump use during hot weather. In this
case reduce the filtration time and increase the sleep time.
• Check that another source of heat is not heating the pool excessively. Look at
pumps operating for long durations, solar heating, heat pumps, lighting etc.
• Check that the ambient temperature is not above or close to 45°C.
• If an in heater temperature sensor is used check that there is adequate water flow
through the heater. Check that the filter and pump are not blocked and that the jets
and valves are open.
• Measure the pool temperature and verify the controller’s reading. If the controller
has an in heater sensor then circulate the water for a few minutes first. If the
controller is reading an incorrect temperature then the temperature sensor may be
damaged or faulty. Connect another sensor and check that the controller is
operating correctly. If it is then change the temperature sensor, if not change the
circuit board.
Error 6 = THERMAL CUTOUT TRIPPED
This error indicates that the safety electromechanical over temperature cutout on the
heater has operated. This is not necessarily a problem with the SP601 itself. It may
have been caused by high temperatures during shipping or by disconnection or failure of
the pump. Waiting for the heater to cool below about 38°C and switching the power off
and on again will clear this error.
• Check valves are open correctly; pumps are working and that there is adequate
water flow through the heater tube.
• Check that filters are clean and jets are open.
• Check thermal cutouts in pumps and other equipment. (Run pump directly from
mains to see if it over heats and cuts out.).
• Check all connections in the controller are tight and clean.
• Make sure air cannot collect in the heater tube. Refer to the ‘Circulation Pump’
and/or ‘Ozone’ sections of this manual when using these systems.
• When all options have been exhausted change the circuit board.
Error 7 = STUCK RELAY
This error indicates a problem with the heater control circuitry inside the unit.
• Check that there are no short circuits across the relay terminals or associated wiring.
• Check that all internal wiring is correct and that terminals are tight and clean.
• When all options have been exhausted change the circuit board.
Error 8 = NO TEMPERATURE DATA
This error indicates a problem with the digital temperature sensor in the heater or pool.
It might be caused by the sensor being disconnected or by damage to the sensor or
cable.
• Make sure there is only one sensor plugged into the circuit board. Either ‘in-heater’
or ‘in-pool’ sensor not both.
• Check the temperature sensor to circuit board connection for water, corrosion or
fouling.
• Connect another sensor and check that the controller is operating correctly. If it is
then change the temperature sensor, if not change the circuit board.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 18
Troubleshooting
1) The clock won’t keep time.
• Check that the power is always connected to the SP601.
• Check the clock is plugged into the SP601 PCB and check the connection for
corrosion.
• The clock is faulty and needs to be returned for service.
2) The thermal cutout keeps tripping.
• Check that there is adequate water flowing through the heater tube and that the
plumbing is not blocked.
• Check that filters are clean and jets are open.
• Check thermal cutouts in pumps and other equipment.
• Turn the power supply to the unit off and allow the unit to cool. Turn the power back
on.
• Check the pump is not heating the pool. A large pump running continuously will heat
the pool until the power to it is cut.
• If a small circulation pump is in use check there is enough flow through the heater
tube and that air is not collecting in the heater tube. Try to measure the flow from the
circ pump outlet jet. This can be done by holding a hose on the jet’s outlet and timing
how long it takes to fill a bucket. Aim for more than 40 L/m. i.e. it should take no
longer than 30 seconds to fill a 20 litre bucket.
• The unit is faulty and needs to be returned for service.
3) The unit won’t power up.
• Check there is power to the unit and that the control panel is plugged in correctly.
• Check the control panel for damage or corrosion. Try another control panel.
• Check all connections are correct, tight and clean.
• Replace the unit.
4) The unit leaks.
• First ascertain where the leak is.
• Mac-unions. Check that there are O-rings in the mac-unions. Check that the unions
are tight, aligned and not distorted.
• Heater tube. Inspect the water sensor body for cracks and O-ring location. Tighten or
replace if necessary. Tighten the element boss screws to compress the O-ring.
• Replace the heater tube if required.
5) The RCD or Ground Fault Device keeps tripping out.
• Check for shorts to earth and loose, dangling wires. Check the element earth
leakage. Try disconnecting equipment piece by piece until you can identify what is
causing the fault.
• Check that the RCD is not also an overcurrent circuit breaker. If it is, make sure it is
rated for motor start up surges and is not overloaded.
• Make sure the unit is not drawing too much current from the supply – see loading
calculations.
• Check for damage to wiring, pumps, blowers, and lights.
• Check for leaks around live parts.
• Check earth connections.
• Check the supply is wired correctly.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 19
• Some older switchboard ELCBs are not compatible with EMC filtered equipment and
must be replaced.
• The ELCB may be faulty and require replacement.
6) My pool is getting too hot.
• Check that another source of heat is not heating the pool excessively. Look at
pumps operating for long durations, solar heating, heat pumps, lighting etc.
• In extreme climatic conditions where there is a high ambient temperature the normal
operation of the unit and pump can cause the pool to over heat. To counter this,
remove the pool cover over night to allow the pool to cool. Be sure the pool is safe to
leave uncovered. Consider access by children, animals etc.
• Increase sleep time and minimise filtration time.
Part Replacements
Every precaution has been taken to insure the highest quality and reliability is delivered
in each SP601. However in the unlikely event that something does go wrong, it is
normally a simple operation to replace the faulty section of the controller or the entire
controller if necessary.
To avoid unnecessary part replacement it is important that the fault be diagnosed
correctly. Refer to the diagnostics and trouble shooting sections before attempting to
change any parts. Only authorised service agents should attempt to change parts.
Most problems are caused by something obvious so remember to check the obvious
first: connections, power supply, pumps, water flow, and leaks…
Refer to the wiring diagram when checking connections.
Heater Tube
Removal
Disconnect from the supply. Close the water valves so
that the unit can be removed without draining the pool
or causing a flood. Loosen the locking rings on the
mac-unions and disconnect the pipe work (don’t loose
the O-rings). Note the connections in the unit so that
they may be disconnected and reconnected later on.
Disconnect the heater tube wiring using a pair of pliers
to grip each terminal in turn– don’t pull on the wire itself. Disconnect the two wires from
the thermal cut out, disconnect the earth wire, disconnect the element phase and neutral
wires and unplug the water sensor and temperature sensor. Unscrew the two mounting
screws that locate the heater tube in place so that it can be removed.

Report Number : TEC135
Issue : Two
Date : Mar 2006
Page : 20
Installation
Installation is the reverse of removal, but remember to soak up any water in the unit.
Check the replacement element is the same rating as the old one and check the
connections are correct and tight. (Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram) Turn the
water back on, bleed air from pipe work and reconnect power. Check the operation of
the unit and check for leaks.
Water Sensor
Removal
Disconnect from the supply. Isolate the water supply and drain the
heater tube so that the water sensor can be removed without
draining the pool or causing a flood. Cut the cable ties on the
sensor’s leads and disconnect the plug from the circuit board.
Unscrew the sensor from the element boss.
Installation
Lubricate the water sensor O-ring with a little silicon grease if it is not
already lubricated. Slide the O-ring over the water sensor and screw
the water sensor into the element boss until the O-ring is seated
inside the recess and the sensor body starts to tighten up on the O-
ring or boss. Then back the sensor off ¼ of a turn. This will insure
that the water sensor’s body is not in contact with the element boss
and is not under too much tension. If the water sensor is over
tightened or it’s body is hard up against the element boss it will crack
and leak.
Plug the sensor into the circuit board and cable tie the leads into place. Soak up any
water in the unit, reconnect the water, bleed air from pipe work and reconnect power
supplies. Check the operation of the unit and check for leaks.
Phase Wire
Earth Wire
Water Sensor
Cut out
Neutral Wire
Temp Sensor