Vacuflo 760 Dual Motor User manual

PlanAhead!
Planning is the key to the suc-
cessful installation of a central
vacuum system. Strive to obtain
a balance between the best loca-
tions for the inlet valves and the
practicality of servicing these
locations. Always fully consider
the implications before you cut
into a wall.
INSTALLATION MANUAL
CentralVacuum
System
•1/2" (1.3 cm) Right Angle Heavy Duty Electric Drill
•Battery Drill
•2-1/4" to 2-9/16” Self Feed Drill Bit
•1/4" (6.4 mm) Masonry Drill Bit
•Common Hacksaw or Small Handsaw with 18 teeth
per inch blade or 2" PVC Pipe Cutter
•Mitre Box
•Pocket or Utility Knife
•Steel Tape Measure
•Screwdriver (Slot and Phillips)
•Electrical Tape or Duct Tape
•Tie Wraps
•Wire Coat Hanger
•Hammer and Nail Puller
•Side Cutters
•Wire Connectors for #18 (1.00 mm) wire
•Flashlight
•Drywall Saw
•Wire Stripper
•Crimping Tool
Installing a central vacuum system is a straightforward do-it-
yourself project that doesn’t require special tools or skills.
Read the instructions thoroughly before you begin. Take your
time and follow the instructions carefully. Make sure you have
chosen the right installation location and that you are not cut-
ting into any hidden electrical wires or plumbing.
This kit contains all the materials required to install the vacu-
um system including the Vaculine fittings. Vaculine fittings
are manufactured to exacting standards to provide positive
seals, easy installation, and superior airflow characteristics.
Recommended Tools

The power unit can be located in the garage, basement,
utility room, or any other area that is dry and remote
enough that living areas will not be affected by the
sound of the electric motor. Preferably install the unit
on an outside wall away from heat-producing units such
as an incinerator, water heater, dryer, etc. (DO NOT
INSTALL POWER UNIT IN ATTIC.) The unit must be
mounted within three feet of an electrical outlet.
Electrical specifications of the power unit should be
checked to avoid overloading the circuit. The unit
should be mounted so that it is out of the way, but still
accessible for emptying.
Inlet valves are usually located on inside walls in hall-
ways, near doorways, archways, and near the bottom of
staircases. These locations provide the maximum area
of cleaning coverage with a minimum number of inlet
valves—frequently making it possible to clean three or
four rooms from one valve. The hose must be able to
reach every corner of the house and go around furni-
ture to get there.
After locating inlet valves, use a 30 foot (9.5 m) length
cord (our standard hose length) or a piece of string to
scale if working with blueprints, to be sure all areas of
the house can be cleaned from selected inlet valve loca-
tions. If an electrical beater brush is to be used now or
in the future, the inlet valve should be located within
five feet of an electrical outlet. Turbine driven beater
brush heads do not require electricity and thus allow
more flexibility when choosing inlet valve locations.
It is preferable to plan on using wall inlet valves; how-
ever, the same inlet valve can be placed in the floor if
tubing cannot be installed in the wall. For basements,
garages, and other areas where tubing is exposed, utili-
ty valves are used. They are installed easily, directly
into our standard tubing.
HOW TO DETERMINE LOCATION FOR POWER UNIT
HOW TO DETERMINE LOCATIONS FOR INLET VALVES
HelpfulHint
Vacuums must breath—do not
enclose them! If the unit is to be
located in a closet or utility room,
it must be vented. Louvered doors
fulfill this purpose. A muffler can
be used to minimize noise.
HelpfulHint
When determining locations for
inlet valves, make sure the hose
can reach all areas of the house
including closets, ceiling corners,
and walls. Allow sufficient slack in
the cord to get around furniture.
HelpfulHint
Venting considerations: 1) do not
vent into a wall, a ceiling, or a
concealed space of a building or
structure; 2) avoid venting to
patios and entranceways.
PAGE 2
PlanningtheCentralVacuumSystem

HOW TO PLAN THE TUBE SYSTEM
HelpfulHint
When planning the tubing system,
avoid gravity drops! A branch line
located directly below an over-
head trunk line will accumulate
dirt due to the effects of gravity.
The result will be a pile of dirt at
the base of the inlet valve every
time it is opened.
The amount of airflow that
reaches the hose is depend-
ent on the efficiency of the
tubing system layout. Lines
are to be kept as straight
as possible. Tight 90-degree
fittings are to be used only
at inlet valve locations and
sweep 90-degree fittings used in all other applications.
1. The Trunk Line
The trunk line connects the furthest inlet valve to the
power unit. All other inlet valves will be serviced by
branch lines flowing into the trunk line. If the base-
ment is unfinished, the trunk line is best run beneath
the joists in the basement ceiling. The upper floors can
be serviced through closets, cold air return ducts, or in
partition walls. Alternatively, the trunk line could run
straight up to the attic and service the floors beneath
by branch lines dropping through closet ceilings or par-
tition walls. The location of the trunk line will greatly
depend on the construction of the house and location of
the power unit.
Multi-Story Houses
While roughing in tube lines during construction is
comparatively simple, existing two- and three-story
houses present special installation situations that
require careful planning before installation is started. In
a two-story house, sometimes it is preferable to run a
trunk line directly into the attic or crawl space. From
this point, branch lines can be run across the attic to
partitions and down within partition walls to inlet
valves. Tube lines carrying dirt upward should never
exceed one-story. If dirt must be lifted higher than one-
story, run at least eight feet (2.4 m) of tubing horizon-
tally between the two floors.
There are several methods of gaining access to the sec-
ond floor or the attic including installing the tubing in
a closet, in the wall beside the soil pipe, inside the cold
air return, or in a partition wall (be sure to avoid
switches, wiring, and other obstacles).
2. Branch Lines
Branch lines join the remaining inlet valves to the trunk
line. As with the trunk line, these lines should be kept
as straight as possible. When possible, use 45-degree fit-
tings to avoid sharp corners. Airflow direction should
always be considered when installing branch lines.
PAGE 3
PlanningtheCentralVacuumSystem(Continued)

Measuring: Measurements should be taken from the
base of the pipe-stop, which is on the inside of the fit-
ting hub. As each section of tubing is cut, it should be
dry fitted before the next measurement is taken.
Cutting: The tubing must be cut as straight and square
as possible. A miter box should be used if available. All
rough edges must be removed with a utility knife or
coarse sandpaper.
Dry Fitting: Once all the pieces are cut, they should be
dry fitted to check for correct fit. The markings on the
fittings can be utilized to assure proper alignment.
Gluing: PVC solvent cement actually welds the fitting to
the tubing. A chemical reaction permanently joins the
molecules from each surface to produce an airtight seal.
Before cementing, both the tubing and the fitting must
be free of PVC burrs, dirt, and grime. The components
should be wiped with a clean cloth if necessary. Cement
should only be applied to the tubing because cement
applied to the fitting will be pushed ahead and create a
rough bead on the inside of the fitting. This bead will
reduce airflow and could cause a clog. The tubing
should be inserted all the way into the fitting and
twisted a quarter turn to evenly distribute the cement.
All excess cement should be removed with a rag. The
glue should be allowed to set for several hours before
the vacuum system is used.
Every power unit has an on/off switch that is activated
by completing a circuit at the inlet valves. The power
unit is turned on by simply inserting the hose in the
inlet valve. To facilitate this, low voltage wire must fol-
low the tubing system. At the junction of a branch line
and the trunk line, the wires must be spliced together.
Each inlet valve must be able to activate the machine
independently of the other valves. There must be an
uninterrupted route from each inlet valve to the power
unit. With wire ties, attach the wire to the tubing at
least every four feet. If using Lexan inlet valves, do not
loop wires at valve locations. Only one pair of wires
can be hooked up to these valves.
HOW TO CUT AND CEMENT PVC TUBING AND FITTINGS
LOW VOLTAGE WIRE
PAGE 4
PlanningtheCentralVacuumSystem(Continued)

The power unit should be mounted on an outside wall
to minimize the length of the exhaust line. Mount the
unit at a height that will provide convenient access to
the dirt receptacle, or about 6 feet (1.8 m) from the
floor to the top of the wall-mounting bracket which
holds the power unit. For proper ventilation and access,
the wall-mounting bracket must be at least 14" (355
mm) from ceiling and 14" (355 mm) from a side wall.
To mount on a masonry wall, use the wall-mounting
bracket as a template to locate two holes on a mortar
joint or on the surface of a cement block. Drill the two
marked holes 1" (25 mm) deep using a 1/4" (6.4 mm)
masonry drill bit.
To anchor, insert a 1/4" (6.4 mm) plastic anchor in
each hole. Secure the mounting bracket to the wall with
two 1" No. 12 (?5.5 x 25 mm) sheet-metal screws.
In anchoring to a wood or plaster wall, locate the wall-
mounting bracket on a stud. Securely anchor bracket to
stud with two No. 14 x 1 1/2" (?6.3 x 38 mm) screws
through the two vertical holes.
Hang Power Unit and Install Exhaust Line
The manufacturer recommends that a muffler be
installed with all power units. Mufflers are sold separate-
ly. Install the muffler vertically in the exhaust line with-
in the building, and extend the exhaust line outside.
The connection of the intake line and wiring to the
power unit will be completed after the balance of the
system is installed
.Electrical Requirements
All Vacuflo Power Units are supplied with a power supply
cord for connection to a grounded receptacle. All wiring
must meet local codes. Warning: When using the system,
electric shock might occur if used on a wet surface.
Grounding Instructions
This appliance must be grounded. If it should malfunc-
tion or breakdown, grounding reduces the risk of elec-
tric shock by providing a path of least resistance for
electric current. This appliance is equipped with a cord
having an equipment-grounding conductor and ground-
ing plug. The plug must be plugged into an appropriate
outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accor-
dance with all local codes and ordinances.
WARNING!
Electric shock is a risk when the equipment-grounding
conductor is improperly connected. Check with a quali-
fied electrician or service person if you are in doubt as
to whether or not the outlet is properly grounded. Do
not modify the plug provided with the appliance—if it
will not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a
qualified electrician. This appliance is for use on a nomi-
nal 120-volt circuit. Make sure that the appliance is con-
nected to an outlet having the same configuration as the
plug. No adapter should be used with this appliance.
INSTALLATION OF THE POWER UNIT - NEW & EXISTING HOMES
HowtoInstalltheSystem
Step1
INSTALLATION OF INLET VALVES –
EXISTING HOMES
Step2
HelpfulHint
Probe for obstructions by insert-
ing a sufficient length of tubing
into the wall before cutting the
inlet valve hole.
The hole in the wall for the inlet valve should be locat-
ed between studs—clear of obstructions such as plumb-
ing, wiring, heating ducts, etc. NOTE: Minimum stud
depth for sufficient clearance of the adapter elbow is 2
3/4" (70 mm).
Determine the exact location of an inlet valve and locate
a point on the floor directly below vertical center of the
desired location. For appearance, the height of the inlet
valves should be centered with the height of electrical
receptacles. Drill a small pilot hole (against the wall)
through the flooring and sub-flooring. The straight sec-
tion of a wire coat hanger cut at an angle makes a good
pilot hole drill bit. (Be careful not to snag carpeting.)
From beneath the floor, this pilot hole will serve as a
guide point from which you can measure over approxi-
mately 2 1/2" (63 mm) to locate and drill a 2 1/4" (57
mm) diameter hole in the center of the sole plate.
Before cutting the 2 1/4" x 3 3/4" (57 mm x 95 mm)
hole in the wall for the inlet valve, drill the 2 1/4" (57
mm) diameter hole up through the sole plate. Using a
flashlight, inspect the interior of the wall to make sure
there are no obstructions. It is also advisable to probe
for obstructions by inserting a sufficient length of tub-
ing into the wall BEFORE cutting the inlet valve hole.
PAGE 5

INSTALLATION OF INLET VALVES - EXISTING HOMES (C0NTINUED)
Step2
Having determined that there are no obstructions in
the wall, cut a hole 2 1/4" (57 mm) wide by 3 3/4" (95
mm) tall for the inlet valve.
Tape low voltage wire to the end of a sufficiently long
piece of tubing and pass it up from beneath. Leave
approximately 10" (250 mm) of wire beyond the end of
the tube to permit easy wiring of the inlet valve. When
the main trunk line is overhead, tubing can also be
passed down to inlet valve locations in the wall.
Apply adhesive to the adapter elbow stem and insert
adapter elbow through the wall opening and into the
tube. After putting the wire through the top oval hole of
the mounting plate, insert mounting plate diagonally
through the wall opening with the four bent tabs facing
adapter elbow. Line up slots on the mounting plate with
tabs on adapter elbow; then rotate mounting plate into
an upright position. Be sure approximately 6" (150 mm)
of #18-2 (1.00 mm) solid wire is through the top oval
hole of the wall-mounting plate.
Split wires at least 1" (25 mm), then strip 3/8" (10
mm) insulation from each wire. Insert stripped wires
into the two holes on switch on the back of the inlet
valve. Press firmly to engage.
Be sure gasket is in place on inlet valve stem before
inserting into adapter elbow.
Secure inlet valve into place with the four screws provid-
ed. Be sure inlet valve covers the hole on all sides and is
straight. Do not over tighten screws. Snub down lightly.
Be sure the inlet valve lid opens and closes freely.
PAGE 6
HelpfulHint
Do not over tighten the screws
that attach the inlet valve to the
mounting plate. If a whistling
noise develops during operation,
slightly loosen the screws.
HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

Closet Wall Installation of Inlet Valve
If obstructions make it impossible to run vertical tube
lines through partition walls, the best and easiest alter-
native is to go through the insides of closets. This
works especially well when a closet on the second floor
is directly above a closet on the main floor.
Drill a horizontal pilot hole through the center of a
suitable inlet valve location. Probe for hidden obstruc-
tions with a bent piece of coat hanger. With the pilot
hole as a center, drill a 1 1/2" hole through both sides
of the wall. Using a keyhole saw, cut a hole 2 1/4" (57
mm) wide by 3 3/4" (95mm) long in the outside and
inside wall. (See drawing below.)
From Inside the Closet
Feed the low voltage wire
through the top hole of the
mounting plate then through
the wall to the other side.
Attach the 90 adapter to the
mounting plate. Secure
mounting plate flange to the
inside wall with screws to
hold this part temporarily in
position. Install a valve exten-
sion through the wall into the
90 adapter insuring that the flange is at least 1/4”
inside of the wall and that the screw holes are lined up
squarely. Glue this valve extension into the 90
adapter. Allow glue to set - then install wire into valve
and insert valve into valve extension and secure with
screws. Drill a 2-1/4” - 2-9/16” hole below the 90
adapter and connect PVC to trunk line.
SPECIAL SITUATIONS - EXISTING HOMES
Step3
Floor Installation of Inlet Valve
While the normal installation of inlet valves is in parti-
tion walls, occasionally one must be installed in the
floor. In this case, the location for the inlet valve
should be about two inches from the wall and not in a
high traffic area. As with wall installations, use a pilot
hole drill to make sure the location is clear of obstruc-
tions below. Cut a hole that is 2 1/4" (57 mm) wide by
3 3/4" (95 mm) long. Attach mounting plate to 90˚
adapter elbow. Assemble inlet valve as shown on page
6. Facing wall, valve should open to the left for ease
of use.
In the case of linoleum or uncovered floors, the mount-
ing plate will be installed from below. If the floor is
carpeted, cut a hole in the carpet with a utility knife
and slip the untrimmed mounting plate under the car-
pet. Fasten the mounting plate to the floor with screws.
If a wall or floor is over 1" (25 mm) thick, use inlet
valve stem extension #5018. Shorten extension to fit.
The flange on the extension should be 1/4" (6 mm)
below the surface to insure a proper fit of the valve.
PAGE 7
HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)
HelpfulHint
For houses with flat roofs
and slab floors, inlet
valves are installed in
exterior walls and branch
lines are run outside the
house. The tubing system
can be run underground
or under the eaves of the
house.

INSTALLATION OF INLET VALVES - NEW CONSTRUCTION
Step4
Vertical tube lines and low voltage wiring for inlet
valves are roughed in while the house is in the framing
stage.
After selecting the location for an inlet valve, drill a 2
1/4" (57 mm) hole in the center of the plate next to
the stud. Cement sufficient tubing to adapter elbow for
riser or drop to extend 3" (76 mm) beyond the plate.
Assemble the mounting plate to the adapter elbow with
plaster guard tabs facing forward.
Insert tubing through the hole in the plate and nail the
mounting plate to the front of the stud, with the
adapter elbow next to the stud. For appearance, inlet
valve height should be the same as electrical recepta-
cles in the room.
Bring approximately 10" (250 mm) of low voltage wire
through the top oval hole of the mounting plate and
double it back into the adapter elbow. Also allow
approximately 2 feet (.6 m) of wire beyond the plate.
Press the red plaster guard insert firmly into the face
of the mounting plate between the tabs.
After the walls are finished, the inserts will be
removed before installing the valves. After the house is
finished, complete the system following the applicable
portions of these instructions.
Happy vacuuming!
HelpfulHint
Take measurement from floor
to bottom of electrical box.
Add 1-7/8” to get Center Point
of Vac Mounting Plate.
PAGE 8
HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)
SPECIAL SITUATIONS - NEW & EXISTING HOMES
Step5
Installation of Inlet Valves
For walls 1/4" (6 mm) thick or less, the rubber gasket
seal on the inlet valve stem should be moved forward
to the front groove to insure a proper seal. A slot is
provided 3/8" (10 mm) from the end
of the stem in order that it may be
sawed off with a standard hack-
saw. If the inlet valve will not
cover a hole in the wall in a new
or existing installation, an inlet
valve trim plate (ivory #5007 or
brown #5008) is available. The
trim plate fits behind the valve
and covers any oversized hole up
to 1/2" (13 mm).
Installation of a Utility Valve
A utility valve is used next to the power unit or in
basements, garages, and other areas where tubing is
exposed. To install, put the screw provided with the
valve into the wall (using an anchor if
necessary) until it protrudes 3/4"
(19 mm). Check 3/4" (19 mm) with
the gauge on the back of the valve.
Connect wiring to low voltage wire-
leads in valve, and push connec-
tions into space provided. Using a
1/8" allen wrench, change valve to
the unlocked position, place over
the screw, and turn to "L" for
locked position. If not snug, remove
valve and adjust screw slightly.

SPECIAL SITUATIONS - NEW & EXISTING HOMES (CONTINUED)
Step5
Center VacPan under
cabinet so as to
avoid standards and
cabinet supports. Use
a 1x4 and a 2x4 under pipe to
get correct height. Dry fit horizontal pipe
into sweep 90 that comes up under cabinet. We recom-
mend having cabinet people put a false bottom in this cabinet. Pipe
opening is not centered to opening in mopboard. Measure 4" to right side of cen-
ter and 2-1/2" to left of center, 6-1/2" width x 1-3/4" height over all. If installation of
VacPan is only possible from front of mopboard, cut opening 6-1/2" x 3-1/2" and use
oversized trim plate.
PAGE 9
HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

COMPLETION OF TUBING SYSTEM (NEW AND EXISTING HOMES)
Step6
With the inlet valves installed, start at the most distant
valve and extend the trunk line toward the power unit.
Connect branch lines to trunk with 90-degree TYs,
being careful to have directional flow toward the power
unit.
Note: Never drop a branch line directly out of the bot-
tom of a trunk line because this will provide a pocket
for dirt to drop into. Always run a branch line out of
the side or top of the trunk line. No. 18-2 (1.00 mm)
low voltage wire follows tubing from each inlet valve.
Junctions or splices using wire connectors (check local
code) are made at each branch or TY. Tape the wire to
the tubing or staple it to the joists. At the power unit,
connect the wires to the low voltage terminals.
HelpfulHint
Tube lines may be installed in par-
titions, attics, crawl spaces, under
or between floor joists, or on
walls or columns in basements.
PAGE 10
HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)