Vermont Castings Resolute Acclaim 2490CE Mounting instructions
0893
Resolute Acclaim
Cover
Homeowner’s
Installation and
Operating Manual
For use in Europe
30003843 9/10 Rev. 5
0893
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
Thank you for choosing a Vermont Castings Resolute Acclaim.
Your stove is one of the finest available. It features high efficiency, non-catalytic performance, using space-age
refractory material and the precisely calibrated delivery of air to a concentrated charcoal bed to promote secondary
combustion in a controlled environment.
If treated properly and operated according to the guidelines in this manual it will provide years of safe, dependable,
and economical heating.
The Resolute Acclaim has been tested to current standards. The test standards are UL-148 and UL-737 for the
United States and EN1340:001 + A:004 for Europe. The Resolute Acclaim is listed for burning wood. Do not
burn other fuels.
The Resolute Acclaim is listed and approved for installation in mobile homes only in the United States and only with
use of Vermont Castings Mobile Home Installation Kit #349.
The Vermont Castings Resolute Acclaim is in compliance with the standards set forth by the Federal Environmental
Protection Agency, 40 CFR Part 60.53(b)(), as stated on the permanent label attached to each stove.
In addition to directions on installation and operation, this manual includes directions on maintenance and assembly.
We recommend that you hire a professional solid fuel stove installer to install your stove, or to advise you on the
installation should you attempt to install it yourself.
Specifications .........................................3
Installation ..............................................4
Operation .............................................. 11
Draft Management ................................16
Maintenance .........................................18
Replacement Parts ...............................3
Warranty ...............................................7
Warming Shelf
#0064 Classic Black #1357 Suede Brown
#1351 Sand #1385 Biscuit
#1354 Ebony #1387 Chestnut Brown
#1355 Bordeaux #1390 Vt. Classic Green
#1356 Midnight Blue #1395 Brown Majolica
#0184 Rear Heat Shield
#046 Bottom Heat Shield
#0133 Sparkscreen
#355 Outside Air Adapter (for 3” ducting)
#349 Mobile Home Kit - includes: Rear and Bottom
Heat Shields, Outside Air Adapter, Ducting and Leg
Clips
#0574 Stove Surface Thermometer
#341 Gasket Kit
#4360 Griddle Handle Kit
Short Legs
#0565 Classic Black #098 Vt. Classic Green
#093 Brown Majolica #915 Bordeaux
#095 Biscuit #916 Midnight Blue
#096 Chestnut Brown
#097 Ebony
3
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
RESOLUTE
Ac cl ai m
648 mm (2556O")
699 mm
(2756O")
660 mm (26")
152 mm
(6")
584 mm
(23")
495 mm
(1956O")
324 mm
(126M")
635 mm (25")
546 mm (2156O")
635 mm
(25")
483 mm (19")
546 mm
(2156O")
(Reg. Legs)
495 mm
(1956O")
(Short Legs)
3843
Resolute Acclaim
specs
806
Nominal heat output ........... 10.7 kW (36,500 BTU/hr)1
Minimum flue draught .................... 1 Pa (0.048” WG)
Mean flue gas temp ............................ 431° C (807° F)
Efficiency (space heating) .................................... 74%
Area heated ...................Up to 148 sq m (1600 sq. ft.)
Fuel size/type ............................... 410 mm (16”) wood
Flue mass gas flow ............................................7. g/s
CO emissions (@13%O) .............................. 700 ppm
Loading ................................................... Front and top
Chimney connector....................15 mm (6”) diameter
Chimney flue size .... Min. 15 mm (6”) or 03 mm (8”)
Flue exit position.......................Reversible, top or rear
Primary air ........................................................Manual
Secondary air .................................................... Preset
Ash handling system ................... Removable ash pan
Glass panel.........................High-temperature ceramic
Weight ...............................................19 kg (45 lbs.)
Width (leg-to-leg) ....................................660 mm (6”)
Depth (leg-to-leg) ...................................480 mm (19”)
Height to top of flue collar:
w/Regular legs ................ 699 mm (7¹⁄₂") top exit
..........................................635 mm (5") rear exit
w/Short legs .................... 648 mm (5¹⁄₂") top exit
..........................................584 mm (3") rear exit
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove is oper-
ated, the type and moisture content of the fuel used, as well
as the design, construction and climatic location of your
home. Figures shown are based on nominal fuel consumption
obtained under laboratory conditions and on average efficien-
cies.
Resolute Acclaim dimensions.
DRAWINGS NOT TO SCALE
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Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
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Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
see that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far
enough from combustible material to meet all
clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is con-
structed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local author-
ities.
Your local building official is the final authority for ap-
proving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
every Vermont Castings stove indicates that it has
been tested to current standards, and gives the name
of the testing laboratory. Clearance and installation
information is also printed on the label. Local authorities
generally will accept the label as evidence that, when
the stove is installed according to the information on the
label and in this manual, the installation meets codes
and can be approved.
Codes vary in different countries, however. Before
starting the installation, review your plans with the local
building authority. Your local dealer can provide any ad-
ditional information needed.
Your Resolute Acclaim may be connected either to a
sound masonry chimney that meets local codes, to a
relined masonry chimney that meets local codes, or to
an approved prefabricated metal chimney. Whatever
kind you use, the chimney and chimney connector must
be in good condition and kept clean.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be in-
spected to ensure safe condition before the stove is in-
stalled. Your local professional chimney sweep, building
inspector, or fire department official will be able to make
the inspection or to direct you to someone who can.
The flue and chimney design must meet requirement
J, Part J of the building regulations 000 (Combustion
Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
also should be examined for cracks, loose mortar,
other signs of deterioration, and blockage. Repair any
defects before the chimney is used with your stove.
ST241
chimney types
12/13/99 djt
A prefabricated doube-wall
insulated chimney
A tile-lined
masonry
chimney
ST41
Standard chimney types.
Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must
be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney
wall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Open-
ings sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard
and should be sealed with mortar or refractory cement.
In the event of a chimney fire, flames and smoke may
be forced out of these unused thimbles.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved ma-
sonry or precast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chim-
ney’s clean-out door must seal tightly to help ensure a
good draft.
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These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)
and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has
been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of
ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 00 mm
(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-
tion causing excessive cooling of the flue gases.
A Resolute Acclaim is approved for venting into a
masonry chimney with a flue size of 03 x 03 mm (8”
x 8”), and into a round flue size of 03 mm (8”) or 15
mm (6”).
It may be vented into larger chimneys as well. How-
ever, chimneys with liners larger than 03 x 305 mm
(8” x 1”) may experience rapid cooling of smoke and
reduction in draft, especially if they are located out-
side the home. These large chimneys may need to be
insulated or to have their flues relined for proper stove
performance.
Accessories to help make the connection between
stainless steel chimney liners and your Resolute Ac-
claim are available through your local dealer.
A chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chim-
ney itself is a masonry or prefabricated structure that
encloses the flue. Chimney connectors are used only
to make the connection from the stove to the chimney.
They are for interior use only.
Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the
building regulations. This can be achieved by the use
connecting fluepipes included in the following catego-
ries:
a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS
6999: 1989 (1996);
b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS
EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.443 or
1.4436 with flue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
c) Mild steel fluepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:
1991, with a flue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;
d) Cast iron fluepipes complying with BS 41: 1973
(1998).
Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be
fitted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-
densates and moisture within the flue. Joints should be
made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,
or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-
tible rope and fire cement.
Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for
use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Single-wall con-
nectors should be made of 4 gauge or heavier steel,
and should be 6” (15 mm) in diameter. Do not use
galvanized chimney connector; it cannot withstand the
high temperatures that can be reached by smoke and
exhaust gases, and may release toxic fumes under high
heat.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a com-
bustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the recommenda-
tions in the section following on Wall Pass-Throughs.
Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or
any similar concealed space. The whole chimney con-
nector should be exposed and accessible for inspection
and cleaning.
Install the chimney connector not less than 584 mm
(3”) from the ceiling. Keep it as short and direct as
possible, with no more than two () 90° turns. If pos-
sible, use 45° elbows. Slope horizontal runs of connec-
tors upward 0 mm per m (1/4” per foot) going from the
stove toward the chimney. The recommended maxi-
mum length of a horizontal run is 914 mm (3’), and the
total length of chimney connector should be no longer
than .5 m (8’).
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricat-
ed chimney downward to within .5 m (8’) of the stove.
Information on assembling and installing double-wall
connectors is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to
the stove and chimney. Using chimneys and connectors
from the same manufacturer helps make the assembly
and installation straightforward.
• Beginning at the flue collar of the stove, assemble the
chimney connector. Insert the first crimped end into the
stove’s flue collar, and keep each crimped end pointing
toward the stove. Using the holes in the flue collar as
guides, drill 3 mm (1/8”) holes in the bottom of the first
section of chimney connector and secure it to the flue
collar with three (3) #10 x 1/” sheet metal screws.
• Secure each joint between sections of chimney con-
nector, including telescoping joints, with at least three
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(3) sheet metal screws.
The predrilled holes in
the top of each section of
chimney connector serve
as guides when you drill 3
mm (1/8”) holes in the bot-
tom of the next section.
• Secure the chimney
connector to the chimney.
Instructions for various
installations follow.
• Be sure the installed
stove and chimney con-
nector are correct distanc-
es from nearby combus-
tible material.
Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-
nector are available to simplify installations. They often
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney
manufacturer exactly as you install the chimney. The
manufacturer of the chimney will supply the acces-
sories to support the chimney, either from the roof of
the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove is
installed, or from an exterior wall.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer
to make the connection between the prefabricated
chimney and the chimney connector. The top of such
adapters attach directly to the chimney or to the chim-
ney’s ceiling support package, while the bottom of the
adapter is screwed to the chimney connector.
These adapters are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
When assembled in this way, any soot or creosote fall-
ing from the inner walls of the chimney will stay inside
the chimney connector.
Both freestanding masonry chimneys and fireplace
masonry chimneys may be used for installation of your
Resolute Acclaim.
If the chimney connector must pass through a com-
bustible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recom-
mendations in the Wall Pass-Through section that
follows. The opening through the chimney wall to the
flue (the “breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic
or metal cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is securely
cemented in place. Most chimney breeches incorporate
thimbles, but the fit must be snug and the joint between
the thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented
firmly. (Fig. 5)
ST243
thinble connection
12/13/99 djt
Thimble Sleeve
Chimney
Connector
Flue
Keep
sleeve end
flush with
flue tile
ST43
The thimble, made of either cermaic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
ST492
Resolute Acclaim
freestanding
installation
1/01
Chimney
Elbow
Slip Pipe
Standard
Connector
Flue Collar
Thimble
Flue Liner
Flue Liner
ST49
Chimney connection is a freestanding installation.
ST242
Chimney connector
12/13/99 djt
The crimped end of
the connector points toward
the stove.
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and most
thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney
connector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer.
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Do not extend it into
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Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
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the actual flue passage, as this could interfere with the
draft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 5-51 mm (1-”)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
In this installation, the chimney connector rises from
the stove, turns ninety degrees, and goes back into
the fireplace chimney. (Fig. 6) The liner of the fireplace
chimney should extend at least to the point at which the
chimney connector enters the chimney. Follow all the
guidelines for installing a chimney connector into a free-
standing masonry chimney, and pay special attention to
these additional points:
• If there is a combustible mantel or trim, check the
stove and chimney connector clearances. Use the
necessary combination of mantel, trim, and connec-
tor heat shields to provide the required clearances.
• Double-check connector clearance from the ceiling.
• The fireplace damper must be closed and sealed
to prevent room air from being drawn up the flue,
reducing the draft. However, it must be possible to
reopen the damper to inspect or clean the chimney.
ST244
Plymouth
fplc over mantel
12/99
RESOLUTE
Acclaim
Chimney Con-
nector Shields *
*
Mantel
Seal the
Damper
* Check these
clearances
ST44
Chimney connector enters chimney above the fireplace.
If your fireplace opening height is at least 584 mm (3”)*,
you m
ay install a Resolute Acclaim through the open-
ing using a “positive connection” kit available from your
local dealer. These kits provide a secure connection
between the stove flue collar and the chimney flue. (Fig.
8) If it is necessary to reverse the flue collar from the
top exit to the rear exit position, follow the directions on
Page 9.
Fireplace installations, whether connected to the flue
above or through the fireplace opening, have special
clearance requirements to adjacent trim and the mantel.
You’ll find the required safe clearances for Resolute Ac-
claim fireplace installations on Page 11.
Floor protection requirements also apply to fireplace
installations. Floor protection is discussed on Page 8.
ST245
fireplace
flex connector
12/99
RESOLUTE
Acclaim
Flexible Con-
nector
Mantel Shield
Fireplace
Adpator Kit
ST45
Chimney connector enters chimney through the fire-
place opening.
Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-
nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you
are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,
check with your building inspector before you begin.
Also check with the chimney connector manufacturer
for any specific requirements.
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-
throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.
8
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
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T
T
ST494
steel
wall pass thru
11/00
18” (457 mm) clear-
ance all around the
pipe
Flush
Mounted
ST494a
An approved wall pass-through for Canada.
ST247
Rear exit floor dgrm
12/14/99 djt
RESOLUTE
Acclaim
Wood framing
requires protection
from radiant heat ST47a
Supporting timbers under fireplace hearth are consid-
ered to be combustible
This appliance must be installed on to hearth that
meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-
lations 000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Stor-
age Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that
the hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with
the guidelines included in section of approved docu-
ment ‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as
follows:
The constructed
hearth should be con-
structed in accordance
with the recommen-
dations in document
J, and should be of
minimum width 840
mm and minimum
depth 840 mm (if a
free standing hearth
b) above) or a mini-
mum projection of 150
mm from the jamb (if
a recessed hearth a)
above).
Do not assume that your fireplace hearth is completely
noncombustible
Many fireplace hearths do not satisfy the “completely
noncombustible” requirement because the brick or
concrete in front of the fireplace opening is supported
by heavy wood framing as in Figure 9. Because heat
passes readily through brick or concrete, it can easily
pass through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace
hearths can be a fire hazard and are considered a com-
bustible floor.
For all fireplace installations, follow the floor protection
guidelines described above.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend
less than the required clearance from the front of the
heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufficient
Costructional Hearth
Dimensions as below
At least
300 mm
At least 150 mm
or to a suitable
heat resistant wall
At least
150 mm
Hearth Surface
Free of Com-
bustible Material
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Appliance
Doors
Appliance
Doors
ST91
Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.
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floor protection as described above must be added in
front of the hearth to satisfy the minimum floor protector
requirement from the front of the stove: 410 mm (16”)
from the front.
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection as they are not fire proof.
Fireplace installations also have special clearance
requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and
fireplace mantel. Refer to the information on fireplace
and mantel trim shields in this section.
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating. A safe installation re-
quires that adequate clearance be maintained between
the stove and nearby combustible materials to ensure
that such materials do not overheat.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove or
chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the ceiling,
and any other fixed combustible surface. Keep furnish-
ings and other combustible materials away from the
stove as well. In general, a distance of 10 mm (48”)
must be maintained between the stove and moveable
combustible items such as drying clothes, furniture,
newspapers, firewood, etc. Keeping those clearance
areas empty assures that nearby surfaces and objects
will not overheat.
Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are in-
cluded below. There are no specific minimum clearanc-
es to solid noncombustible surfaces (e.g. the sides and
rear of Inglenook fire openings constructed from solid
masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls
of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances
of 15 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm
are recommended.
The minimum thickness of solid noncombustible
materials is specified in section of Document ‘J’, in
relation to the clearance of the appliance from the sur-
face. As a general rule, the thickness of solid noncom-
bustible material forming the recess of a fireplace is a
minimum of 00 mm.
C\,
Z\x
ST486a
Defiant EU
Clearance
Diagrams
10/06
A
B
ST486a
Minimum clearances.
Single wall connecting fluepipes can reach extremely
high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-
necting fluepipe (chimney connector) must comply with
the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 000
(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
This can be achieved by following the recommenda-
tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in
Figure 1.
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34
FLUEPIPECLEARANCES
D
at least
3 x D
at least
3 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least 1.5
x D
Air space of at least 1 mm
between noncombustible shield
and combustible material
Fluepipe
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least 3 x D Dat least
1.5 x D
ST911
Connecting fluepipe clearances.
Your Resolute Acclaim is shipped with the flue collar in
the top exit position. Depending on your requirements,
you may wish to reverse the flue collar and extension
plate to the rear exit position. The only tool necessary is
a 11 mm (7/16”) wrench.
To reverse the flue collar position:
1. Remove the four (4) fasteners that hold the collar
and extension plate. The fasteners are accessible
by reaching through the flue collar of the stove.
. Remove the flue collar and extension plate.
3. Examine the exposed gasket; contact your Vermont
Castings Authorized Dealer if the gasket needs to be
replaced.
4. Position the extension plate and flue collar in the
appropriate orientation, making sure the gasket
remains in place. The notched edge of the extension
plate should be next to the griddle.
5. Secure the extension plate and flue collar with the
fasteners removed in the first step. Run the bolts in
only finger-tight. Adjust the fit of the extension plate
and/or flue collar if necessary. Tighten all four (4)
fasteners, but do not overtighten them. Test the ac-
tion of the griddle; make any needed adjustments by
loosening the hardware, repositioning the flue collar
and extension plate, retesting the griddle action, and
retightening the hardware.
11
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
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The , located beneath the
ashlip, regulates how much heat the stove produces by
controlling the amount of air received by the fire. The
more air supplied, the hotter the fire. (Fig. 14)
With a travel range of about 15 mm (6”), the air con-
trol is closed when the lever is fully left. Maximum heat
is produced when the lever is fully right. It may also be
set anywhere between a “start-up” position and the high
and low extremes to achieve a desired heat output. A
directional arrow cast into the Acclaim’s ash lip serves
as a reminder of the correct “open” and “closed” posi-
tions.
The is located on the right side of the
stove and controls air flow within the stove. (Fig. 14)
The damper is open when the handle is toward the rear
of the stove, and the combustion gases exit directly out
the flue collar. When the handle is pulled forward and
locked, the damper is closed, secondary combustion
occurs, and the stove operates most efficiently.
The damper must be fully open or fully closed. There
are no intermediate positions for the damper handle.
You will need the following tools to assemble the Ac-
claim:
• 9/16” open end wrench • safety glasses & gloves
• flat head screwdriver • power drill w/ 3 mm (1/8”) bit
• stub handle phillips screwdriver
1. Remove the shipping straps and plastic wrap.
. Inspect the stove and contents for shipping damage
or missing parts. Immediately notify your dealer of
any damage. Do not install this stove if any damage
is evident or any parts are missing.
• Stove Legs, 4
• 3/8-16 x 1¹⁄₄” hex head Leg Bolts with washers, 4
• Owner's Registration Card
• Touch-up Paint (Porcelain enamel stoves)
Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws
from the stove bottom. Install the stove legs using the
hex head bolts from the parts bag. (Fig. 13) Use 3/8”
washers with all four legs. Tighten the bolts firmly.
Overtightening can strip tapped threads.
ST466
Seville
Attach legs
Leg Bolt and
Washer
Leg Leveller ST466
Attach stove legs and leg levellers.
Convenient top-loading of wood through the Acclaim’s
stovetop griddle supplements traditonal fireplace-style
loading through the front door.
The griddle simply lifts to open.
The front door employs a rotating cam and a door latch
tab to secure it. The handle points down when the door
is closed.
To open the front door, pull on the handle to release the
cam. To close it, push the door until the latch engages.
Double-check the latch by pushing lightly on the handle.
When the latch is properly secured, the door will remain
closed.
For clear fire viewing, the front door features a large,
self-cleaning glass panel. The front door may be
opened (or even removed) and the optional spark
screen clipped in place for open-fire viewing as well.
ST611
Res Acclaim
controls
10/1/02 djt
Flue Collar
Top Load Door/Griddle
Damper Handle
(not shown)
Griddle Handle
Glass Panel
Front Door
Primary Air Control
Front Door Handle ST611
The Resolute Acclaim controls are conveniently
located and easy to use.
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The slip into pockets cast into the front of
the bottom grate and can be removed when loading
through the front door. (Most Acclaim owners, however,
prefer the convenience of “smokeless” top loading.)
The andirons must be in place during
operation. (Fig. 15) They not only help keep the
clear for fireviewing, but they assure proper
placement of the fuel load for efficient clean-burning
operation.
ST612
Resolute Acclaim
firebox
1/01
Firebricks
Secondary Air
Ports
Ash Pan
Bottom Crates
Removable
Andirons
ST61
A look inside the firebox of the Resolute Acclaim.
Burning wood is said to be more of an art than a sci-
ence. You’ll easily master the art if you start by using
good, dry fuel, and understand how the stove’s air sup-
ply system operates.
This heater is designed to burn natural wood only; do
not burn fuels other than those for which this heater
was designed.
Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result
when burning air-dried, seasoned woods as compared
to softwoods or freshly cut hardwoods. Avoid burning
“green” wood that has not been properly seasoned.
Also, do not use construction materials or trash as fuel;
the chemicals, coatings and hardware that may be
present can cause damage to the refractory material.
•
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-
dried outside under cover for at least one year. Avoid
burning cordwood that is over years old as such fuel
can contribute to short burn times, backpuffing and
over-firing.
•
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, some
of the better softwoods that are commonly burned
include tamarack, yellow pine, white pine, Eastern red
cedar, fir, and redwood. They too should be properly
dried. The length of the wood should be 406 mm (16”).
Use of wood shorter than 406 mm (16”) may result in
decreased burn times.
Wood should be stored under cover to maintain dry-
ness. Even for short-term storage, keep wood a safe
distance from the heater and keep it out of the areas
around the heater used for refueling and ash removal.
No single control setting will fit every situation. Each
operation will differ depending on the quality of the fuel,
the amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the
fire to burn.
Control settings also depend on your particular instal-
lation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air through the
stove and up through the chimney. Draft is affected
by such things as the length, type, and location of the
chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions, and
other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the stove. On the other hand, too little draft can cause
backpuffing into the room and/or insufficient heat.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-
lable burn or a part of the stove or chimney connector
glowing red. Inadequate draft is indicated by smoke
leaking into the room through the stove or chimney con-
nector joints.
In some newer homes that are well-insulated and
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air
in the house. In such cases it may be necessary to duct
combustion air to the stove directly from outside. In fact,
in some areas, outside combustion air is required for
stove installations in all new construction.
Your Resolute Acclaim is designed to easily incorporate
outside combustion air with a Vermont Castings Out-
side Air Duct Adapter #355 available from your local
dealer.
When first using the stove, keep track of the air control
settings. You will quickly find that a specific setting will
give you a fixed amount of heat. It may take a week or
two to determine the amount of heat and the length of
burn you should expect from various settings.
Most installations do not require a large amount of com-
bustion air, especisally if adequate draft is available. Do
not for any reason attempt to increase the firing rate of
your heater by altering the air control adjustment range
outlined in these directions.
13
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to determine the best settings for your needs.
CLOSED Fully Left
LOW Approximately 5 mm (1”) to
the right of CLOSED.
HIGH Approximately 76 mm (3”) to
the right of CLOSED, where the
lever hits the stop.
START-UP Fully Right
size on the paper, and on the kindling lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 5-51 mm
(1-”).
Also, never use gaso-
line-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid,
or similar liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in this
heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the heater
while it is in use.
3. Light the newspaper and close the door. The fire
soon will be well-established and you may gradually
build it up by adding a few sticks at a time of a progres-
sively larger size.
For your initial three or four break-in fires, let the fire
burn brightly for a short time, then let it die out.
Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to start
a fire. To correct this situation, roll a couple of pieces
of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and
toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the
doors. This should get the smoke moving in the right
direction.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the
main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and
repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial
attempt is unsuccessful.
Once the fire is burning steadily, continue adding
fuel until a thick ember bed has been established on
the grate. The bed must be about 10 mm (4”) deep
at the back of the grate and about 5 mm (1”) deep at
the front, and should cover the throat opening into the
secondary combustion chamber that is located in the
center of the lower fireback.
If your wood is well-seasoned, the damper may be
closed when the griddle temperature reaches 60° C
(500° F). Depending on the type of wood being burned
and its moisture content, it may take several hours to
establish and then maintain the ember base that is
required for high-efficiency operation.
5. Once the ember bed is formed, prepare the stove
for high-efficiency operation. Load it with fuel, first with
smaller splits of wood and then larger ones.
Close the damper and set the primary air control lever
to the “HIGH” position. Operate the stove for 15 - 0
minutes at this maximum air setting to guarantee the
new load of fuel has fully ignited. Once the fuel is burn-
ing steadily, you may adjust the primary air supply to
provide the desired heat output.
ST613
Resolute Accaim
air control settings
1/26/01 djt
Normal
Operation
Move handle down and to
the right for start-up position
Variable settings for the primary air control between
the open and closed positions provide a range of heat output.
ST613
You can load wood into your Resolute Acclaim through
either the top or front loading door. Front-loading is
useful for kindling a new fire, but we recommend top
loading as the most convenient way of regularly adding
several logs at a time.
A new stove needs to be “broken in.” Since cast iron
plates expand and contract in response to temperature
change, let them adjust gradually to heating and cool-
ing. To properly break in your stove, follow Steps 1-3
below only for your first three or four fires. After that,
you may go on to Step 4 and normal operation of the
stove.
The stove paint and cement will emit a slight odor dur-
ing the first few fires. We suggest that you provide extra
ventilation near the stove by partially opening a door or
window when the odor is present.
1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air
control fully to the Start-up position.
. Lay some crumpled newspapers in the stove. Place
six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a finger-width
14
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
You’ll soon find this stove is
Overfiring can
result in permanent damage to the stove. If an exterior
part of the stove or the chimney connector glows, you
are overfiring.
Reload your stove while it is still hot and there are
plenty of embers to re-kindle the fire quickly. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to
help the stove regain high temperatures quickly.
Follow this procedure when you reload your stove:
Door handles can be hot. A glove has been
included with your stove. We recommend using this
glove whenever operating door or damper controls and
especially when operating the top griddle.
• Open the damper and move the primary air lever to
the “HIGH” position.
• Open the front door and check the ash level on the
grates and in the ash pan. Clear excess ash from
the grates, particularly at the rear area. Level the
ember bed. Empty the ash pan if necessary.
• Replace the ash pan and close the front door.
• Load wood, smaller pieces first, and close the load-
ing door.
If the ember bed has burned down to the extent
the fire cannot be revived easily, it may be necessary to
set the air control to the “Start-up” position until the fire
has been re-established.
• Allow the stove to regain its “thermal momentum”
before closing the damper. This may take 15 - 0
minutes, and will be confirmed by a temperature on
the griddle of at least 60° C (500° F).
• Close the damper, and set the primary air lever for
the desired heat output.
If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick
and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is possible to add
fresh fuel (smaller pieces first), close the door and
damper, and reset the primary air within 5 minutes.
Until you are familiar with how your stove works, moni-
tor the griddle surface temperature frequently. Use
these temperature ranges as general indicators of heat
output:
Low to medium 177-60° C (350-500° F)
Medium 60-318° C (500-600° F)
High 318-399° C (600-750° F)
Continuous operation at griddle temperatures higher
than 399° C (750° F) may damage the cast iron parts or
the porcelain enamel finish of your Resolute Acclaim.
A surface thermometer can also tell you when to adjust
the controls and when to refuel the stove. (Fig. 18)
During start-up and after re-loading, for example, a
thermometer reading of at least 60° C (500° F) signals
the stove is hot enough to close the damper and shift
into the high-efficiency mode.
Readings lower than 177° C (350° F) announce the
stove needs loading or it is time to increase the air sup-
ply for a higher burn rate.
At the other exteme, a temperature over 399° C (750° F)
is a warning to slow the burn rate.
ST614
Resolute Acclaim
Damper control
1/26/01 djt
Damper Control
Closed Open
ST614
With the damper closed, secondary combustion takes
place and the Acclaim operates most efficiently.
ST615
Thermostat
on griddle
Stovetop Thermometer
ST615
A thermometer gives temperature readings that help
you to operate your stove safely and effectively.
15
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
The slanted grate is designed to shape the charcoal
bed to promote high temperatures near the entrance to
the secondary combustion chamber. The grates must
be kept free of heavy ash accumulation. Clear ash
manually every six to eight hours of operation or before
you reload.
To clear the ash, “hoe” the ash and charcoal forward
with a stove shovel or similar fireplace tool so they drop
through the grate. Do not put any tool up
into the secondary combustion chamber or you will risk
damaging the refractory package.
Check the ash pan before reloading the stove. If the
ash is close to the top, empty the pan. Before replacing
the ash pan, clear away any ash that has spilled over
the sides and back of the pan.
When burning wood, empty the ash drawer regularly,
typically every one to three days. The frequency will
vary depending on how hot you run your stove: the hot-
ter the fire, the more wood you burn, and the faster ash
will accumulate.
The ash pan is located in the ash drop chamber with a
handle attached to the front and one to the rear. Always
use stove gloves when handling the ash pan. Keep it
level, and carry it outside for disposal. Empty the ash
into your ash disposal container. When you are fin-
ished, slide the pan back into the stove.
Ash may contain hot coals and must be treated with
extreme care. It should be removed frequently and
placed outdoors in a metal container with a tight-fitting
lid. The closed container of ash should be placed on a
noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from
all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the
ash is disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, it should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Wood ash may
be used as a garden fertilizer.
ST438
ash pail
7/6/00 djt
ST438
16
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,
the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The bigger the temperature difference, the
stronger the draft. As the smoke rises from the chimney
it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls air into the stove
for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with the stove’s air inlet
fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk fire, supported
only by air entering the stove through the normal inlet,
indicates a good draft. The stove’s air inlet is passive;
it regulates how much air can enter the stove, but it
doesn’t move air into it.
Depending on the features of your installation - steel or
masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched
to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may
warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and
operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts
the amount of air getting into the firebox, the chimney
must keep the smoke warm all the way to the outdoors.
Some chimneys do this better than others. Here’s a list
of features and their effects.
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
It’s often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain adequate draft.
Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of in-
sulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps the
smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than mason-
ry, so the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than a
masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good looks of
masonry, but it performs much better.
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s
best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house
as insulation for the flue and allows a little heat release
into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat to
the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to get
it warm and keep it warm.
The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove
should match the size of the stove’s flue outlet. When
a chimney serves an airtight, more is not better; in fact,
it can be a disadvantage. Hot gases cool off through
expansion; if we vent a stove with a 15 mm (6”) flue
collar [181 sq cm (8 sq. in. area)] into a 54 x 54 mm
(10 x 10”) flue, the gases expand to over three times
their original size. This cools the gases, which weak-
ens draft strength. If an oversized flue is also outside
the house, the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the
outdoor air and the flue usually stays cool.
It’s common for a masonry flue, especially one built for
a fireplace, to be oversized for an airtight stove. It can
take quite a while to warm up such a flue, and the re-
sults can be disappointing. The best solution to an over-
sized flue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same
diameter as the stove or insert’s flue outlet; the liner
keeps the smoke at its original volume, and the result is
a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- the liner keeps the smoke restricted to its original size,
but the smoke still must warm up the air around the
liner. This makes the warm-up process take longer.
Every turn the smoke must take in its travel from the
stove to the chimney top will slow it down. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove,
to a completely straight chimney. If you’re starting
from scratch, use this layout if possible. If the stove-
pipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the thimble
about midway between the stove top and the ceiling.
This achieves several goals: it lets the smoke speed up
before it must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for
heat transfer, and it gives you long-term flexibility for
installing a taller stove without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for long
runs.
Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own flue. If an airtight
stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open fire-
place, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft
to pull air in through those channels than it is to pull air
through the airtight, and performance suffers. Imagine
a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the ef-
fect here. In some cases the other appliance can even
cause a negative draft through the airtight, and result in
a dangerous draft reversal.
17
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an
organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense in
the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than
90°F. Condensed creosote is volatile, and can gener-
ate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the features
that affect chimney draft also affect creosote conden-
sation - so use whatever combination of installation
features and operational steps that will encourage good
draft and minimize creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is
one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense
to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for
safety reasons as well as performance. Consult a quali-
fied installer and check local and national codes for
recommended chimney sizing.
Even the best stove installation will not perform well
with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-
dried 1-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as
hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of
moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential
is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood.
This reduces the amount that reaches your home and
can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois-
ture meters available for firewood; you can also judge
your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it
green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can
lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at
the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.
The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier
it is.
Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But
with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood
can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote
in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly
and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.
If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane
torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is
seriously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a
ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures
than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst
can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than
you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or
overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to
slow the fire down.
Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile
gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of
the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re
dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove
back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the
smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into
the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. Run your
stove with enough primary air so that you always see
lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is
inefficient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the
chimney.
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the
stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow
stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of
the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Re-
sults are not always instant; you may need to wait a few
minutes for a change in the air control setting to have
an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft
isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and
you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the
fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you
keep track of your burning habits and relate them to
their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded
with good performance and a safe system.
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;
a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.
Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to
prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competi-
tion between the stove and other equipment that sends
indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment
like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney
draws well with all other equipment turned off (or
sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves),
then you simply need to be careful with timing the use
of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby
window or door to enable the chimney to draw well,
that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake
to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont
Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove
to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
In many cases, local or national codes require the
installation of permanently open air vents, particularly
with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these
codes to determine specific requirements for your
installation.
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the
stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user
can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve
good results. If you keep track of your burning habits
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation,
you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe
system.
18
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
Below you will find important information on general
care, inspection and maintenance of your Vermont
Castings stove. Should it become necessary, use only
replacement parts recommended by your authorized
dealer.
Let the fire in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any mainteneance
procedure.
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Resolute Acclaim looking new.
A damp cloth may be used as well, but only when the
stove is cool. Make sure no water remains on the stove
surface.
If the paint needs retouching, allow the stove to cool
completely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted.
Remove non-painted components such as air controls
or cover them with masking tape. Touch up the stove
with high temperature stove paint available from your
local dealer. Apply the paint sparingly. Two light coats
are better than one heavy one.
Use a dry rag or a soft brush. Do not use water or other
liquids. Fingerprints usually can be buffed off with a dry,
soft rag. If marks remain, allow the stove to cool com-
pletely, then buff with a damp, soft rag. Dry completely
before starting a fire so that water drops or wet streaks
will not leave marks. Never use abrasives or harsh
chemical cleaners on the porcelain enamel finish.
To remove stains or spills from porcelain enamel, first
make sure that the stove is completely cool. Use only
a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish recommended for
enamel surfaces. Apply sparingly with a soft rag and
buff away all traces of the cleaner.
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
regularly during hot fires. If you wish to clean the glass
more thoroughly, follow this procedure:
• Let the stove and glass cool completely.
• Wash the glass with warm water, and a soft paper
towel or rag.
• Rinse and dry thoroughly.
• Never use abrasives, ashes, or harsh chemicals to
clean your Resolute Acclaim glass.
For stubborn deposits, use a ceramic glass cleaner
available from your Vermont Castings’ Authorized
Dealer. Do not allow the cleaner to touch brass orna-
ments or porcelain finish.
The firebricks and sealing plates should be removed
and the exhaust area on either side of the secondary
combustion package should be vacuumed carefully at
least once a year, or after every 60 days of sustained
burning. Follow these steps:
• Remove the ashpan, the griddle and the andirons.
• Remove the left and right side firebrick by lifting
them approximately 13 mm (1/”) and swinging the
front edge in toward the firebox center. Inserting a
flat screwdriver blade underneath the brick and lift-
ing will make the removal easier.
• Remove the two rear firebricks by leaning them for-
ward, removing the retainer clip and lifting them out
through the griddle opening.
ST617
Resolute Acclaim
clean stove
1/01
Left Sealing
Plate
Rear Firebricks Retainer Clip
Right Fire-
brick
ST617
Remove left and right sealing plates.
• Remove both grate sections.
• Remove the sealing plates by removing the 11 mm
(7/16”) hex head bolts and pulling the plate forward.
• Vacuum debris from both sides of the exposed
refractory combustion package, being careful not to
impact the fragile refractory material.
• Check the gasket which the sealing plates seal
against. Replace if necessary following the direc-
tions for gasket replacement that follow.
• Replace the grate sections.
• Replace the sealing plates, rear firebricks, retainer
clip and the side firebricks in that order.
19
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
The door gasket will compress after use. To restore a
tight seal, adjust the tension on the latch:
• Remove the Allen head button screw that attaches
the door latch tab to the stove front. (Fig. 0)
• Remove one of the washers that separates the tab
from the front (save it for future use.)
• Replace the remaining washers and the door latch
tab.
• Remove another washer if necessary.
• Test the seal by closing the door on a slip of paper
and attempting to pull the paper free. If the paper is
freed without tearing, the gasket isn’t snug enough
at that spot.
If the paper indicates a low spot in a specific area, try
“adjusting” the gasket in that area. Pack more cement
or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel beneath
the gasket so that the main gasket is raised and makes
contact with the door frame. This procedure should
solve the problem. If it doesn’t, replace the gasket fol-
lowing these steps:
• Wearing safety goggles and a dust mask, remove
the original gasket by grasping an end and pulling
firmly.
• Use a wire brush or the tip of a screwdriver to clean
the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gas-
ket.
• Apply a thin bead of stove cement in the newly-
cleaned groove.
• Pack the gasket into the groove. Wait until you are a
couple inches from the end before you cut it.
• Test the gasket by closing the door on a slip of paper
such as described above. Adjust the gasket in any
areas where an inadequate seal is evident.
Although it is unlikely that adjusting it will be necessary,
the height of the Resolute Acclaim’s front load door is
adjustable. The lower door hinge pin has a shoulder
that lifts or lowers the door as you screw the pin up or
down.
The cement in the stove seams may deteriorate over
time and fall out in places. Just as with the stove doors,
it is necessary to keep the seam seals in good condi-
tion. Spot-fix with furnace cement (available from your
local dealer) any areas where the cement seal is visibly
deteriorated. Allow 4 hours for the new cement to dry.
The tension of the Resolute Acclaim’s torsion bar is ad-
justable to compensate for compression of the gasket
that seals the damper to the damper frame. To adjust
the damper:
• Loosen the lock nut on the set screw in the center of
the damper. (Fig. 1)
• Turn the set screw approximately one half-turn
clockwise.
• Re-tighten the lock nut and test the damper mecha-
nism.
Do not abuse the glass in the front door by slamming
the door shut or by striking the glass with a piece of
wood, and never operate your stove if it has damaged
or broken glass. If you need to replace the glass, use
only glass provided by MHSC.
ST618
Adjust door latch
1/01
Door Latch
Tab
Rotating
Cam
Washers
Allen Head
Button
Screw
ST618
The front door seal can be adjusted simply by adding
or removing washers.
ST619
Damper adjustment
1/01
Damper
Lock Nut
Set Screw
ST619
When the damper’s gasket becomes compressed
after prolonged use, the damper should be adjusted to regain
a tight seal.
0
Resolute®Acclaim Woodburning Stove
30003843
Do not operate the Resolute Acclaim if the glass is
damaged. Use the following procedure for glass re-
placement. Replace glass with MHSC replace-
ment glass only, available from your local dealer.
• Open the door and carefully remove the glass by
removing the two () clips (one per side) that hold
the glass panel against the gasket in the arched
door opening. Each clip is held in place with two ()
Phillips truss-head machine screws. (Fig. )
• Examine the gasket that seals the glass to the door
frame. Replace if necessary with gasket obtained
from your local Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.
• The glass used in your Resolute Acclaim is specially
coated on one side with a heat reflecting material.
Examine the replacement glass panel, and notice
the markings along the edge.
• Center the replacement glass panel in the arched
door opening, with the marked side of the glass
panel facing the gasket. There should be a gap to al-
low for expansion and contraction between the edge
of the glass panel and the cast iron.
• Replace the two retainer clips and fasten with the
previously removed screws. Tighten the screws
slowly and evenly; do not overtighten.
The Resolute Acclaim uses rope-type fiberglass gas-
kets to make a tight seal between some parts. With
use, particularly on those parts that move, gaskets can
become brittle and compressed and can begin to lose
their effectiveness. These will need periodic replace-
ment.
All of the gaskets used are made of fiberglass. The
three sizes of replaceable gasket are listed below,
along with their application.
Gasket Size... ...And The Parts It Seals
3/16” The glass to the load door frame
5/16” wire mesh The griddle to the stove top
1/” The arch and bottom edge of the
inner front stove panel to the front
load door
1/” The front of the grate to the front
load door
Should you need to change a replaceable gasket, wait
until the fire is out and the stove has cooled. Be sure to
follow the standard safety procedure for working with
dusty materials: wear safety goggles and a dust mask.
The procedure for replacing gaskets is the same,
regardless of the gasket location. Four easy steps are
involved:
1. Remove the existing gasket by grasping an end and
pulling firmly. (Fig. 3)
. Use a wire brush or the tip of a screwdriver to clean
the channel of any remaining cement or bits of gas-
ket. Use a cold chisel for stubborn deposits.
3. Apply a thin 3 mm (1/8”) unbroken bead of stove ce-
ment to the newly-cleaned groove.
4. Starting at one end, pack a new gasket into the
groove. Where the two ends of the gasket meet,
ensure a good joint before trimming any excess. Do
not overlap or leave ragged edges. (Fig. 4)
Other gaskets form seals between non-moving parts,
but these are not subject to the same wear and dete-
rioration as gaskets on moving parts. It is unlikely that
you will ever need to replace these gaskets unless the
involved parts are disassembled and then put back
together. In any event, this is a job that should be done
only by qualified service personnel.
ST559
Remove
gasket
11/30/00 djt
Remove gasket, then clean channel with wire brush.
ST560
ST559
Remove
gasket
11/30/00 djt
Cement
Stove Gasket
ST561
Lay a bead of gasket cement then press gasket in
place.
ST625
Res Acclaim
Glass replace
10/1/02 djt
Glass
Panel
Retainer Clip
3/16” Gasket
ST65
Glass replacement.
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