Vermont Castings Defiant 1945 User manual

For the
VERMONT CASTINGS
Defiant
Model 1945
TABLE OF CONTENTS
History of Changes
Exploded View and Parts List
Service Procedures
Assembly and Disassembly
Gasketing
Appendix

HISTORY OF CHANGES
DEFIANT
Model 1945
This section covers the Defiant Model 1945, built beginning in 2002.
In 2002, Vermont Castings changed the Defiant stove to remove the attached legs and
provide a reversible flue collar. The model designate changed from 1910 to 1945.
•Switched to thicker gasket on the air plates to prevent thermostat pinching 3/12/2002
•Changed door glass gasket from Fibrefax one piece gasket to rope style 9/26/2002
•Modified doors for better fit and sealing 11/11/2002
•Changed to larger diameter gasket around flue collar 5/6/2003
•Replace Nickel handles with Brushed Nickel and Black fallaway handle 5/12/2006
•Replace Black Ceramic handle with wooden handle 08/06/2007
•Start shipping Defiants with legs attached 7/10/2008

WS - 2
CFM Corporation Replacement Parts
Wood Stove Products
80
13
28
1
2
3
6
4
8
15
25
16
17
5
14
44
45
47
61
7
27
32
34
35
38
39
46
26
11
29
30
31
79
10
62
40
42
55
56
41
66
50
80
33
60
57
58
67
76
75
78
68
70
43
64
65
54
74
75
77
51
49
53
83
73
12
19
22
24
37
48
23 23
82
81
20
52
66
21
18
72
63
84
36
69
68
78
1693
Defiant 1945
parts
8/02
9
85
86
87
70
78
71
88
59
90
52
91
91
1693 / 803
CFM Corporation reserves the right to make changes in design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors and products at any time,
without notice.
Defiant Woodburning Stove Model 1945
Item Description Part Number
1. Secondary Air Cover Plate 1601492
2. Secondary Air Probe Assy 1601489
3. Secondary Air Link 1601486
4. Secondary Air Flap 1601490
5. Griddle Gasket 1203668
Item Description Part Number
6. Back 30001581
7. Left Heat Deflector 1608629
8. Right Heat Deflector 1608630
9. Refractory Assy (Body only) 1602512
10. Catalytic Combustor (Boxed) 30001152

WS - 3
CFM Corporation Replacement Parts
Wood Stove Products
11. Refractory Access Panel 1602511
12. Thermostat Friction Spring 1201846
13. Left Griddle Quadrant 1301807
14. Right Griddle Quadrant 1301832
15. Griddle 1301641
16. Griddle Handle 1600657
17. Griddle Handle Spacer 1600070
18. Griddle Handle Bolt 1200907
19. Upper Fireback Assy 5000030
20. Damper Ramp1 1300643
21. Upper Firebrick1 1300633
22. Damper1 1300634
23. Damper Tab1 1601488
24. Damper Rod1 1600065
25. Griddle Handle Bushing 1201895
26. Throat Baffle 1300635
27. Lower Fireback 1300638
28. Upper Fireback Bolt 1201374
29. Damper Handle Screw 1201310
30. Damper Handle 1600664
31. Damper Handle Base Assy 30002720
32. Left Side See Chart Pg. 4
33. Left Air Plate (Inner Side) 1300637
34. Right Air Plate (Inner Side) 1300636
35. Right Side See Chart Pg. 4
36. Thermostat Handle Base Assy 30002716
37. Thermostat Assy 5005470
38. Grate 1300639
39. Primary Air Cover Plate 1300622
40. Top Ashdoor Hinge Support 30001689
41. Door Handle Holder 1600600
42. Bottom 30001577
43. Ashlip See Chart Pg. 4
44. Left Side Wedge 1300628
45. Right Side Wedge 1300644
46. Firebrick (1¹⁄₄” x 4¹⁄₂” x 9”) 1601103
47. Firebrick Retainer 1600066
48. Andiron 1300646
49. Andiron Shelf 1300640
50. Leg Leveller 1201745
51. Ashdoor Handle Shaft 1600622
52. Door Latch Assy 5004025
53. Ashdoor 1300619
54. Ashdoor Handle (Wood) 1600663
55. Ashdoor Hinge Rod 30004028
56. Cotter Pin, Ashdoor 30001749
57. Ashdoor Bottom Hinge Support 1300642
58. Ashpan Bracket 30001908
59. Primary Air Valve Assy 5000024
60. Primary Air Frame3 1307411
61. Primary Air Rod3 1600058
Item Description Part Number
NOTES:
In this diagram and throughout this manual, ‘left’ and
‘right’ mean as you face the stove.
When ordering parts, be sure to mention the stove’s
model number. When ordering external pars, be sure to
specify color.
1. Included in Item #19, #5000030 Upper Fireback Assy.
2. Not interchangeable, due to a heat-reflective coating on
the room side of the glass.
3. Included in Item #59, 5000024 Primary Air Assy.
Order #4345 for a black ceramic handle.
The hardware in the Defiant is in standard sizes; most
bolts are 1/4” diameter by 20 threads per inch. Any
hardware store can supply replacement hardware if you
specify bolt diameter, number of threads per inch and
length.
Item Description Part Number
62. Primary Air Valve3 1307412
63. Thermostat Handle (Wood) 1600660
64. Airwash Manifold 1300627
65. Front See Chart Pg. 4
66. Thermostat Cable 5005471
67. Left Door See Chart Pg. 4
68. Door Hinge Strip 1300645
69. Top See Chart Pg. 4
70. Glass Clip 30001715
71. Glass Clip (Right Door only) 30001716
72. Front Door Handle & Shaft 30002717
73. Right Door See Chart Pg. 4
74. Door Gasket 1203588
75. Gasket, Fiberglas 3/16 4nd, Blk 1203556
76. Left Door Glass2 1600064
77. Right Door Glass2 1600062
78. Lower Door Hinge Pin 30002727
79. Spacer (for Damper Rod) 1201779
80. Upper Door Hinge Pin 30002727
81. Handle Base Stub 30002714
82. Wood Handle 1600664
83. Handle Bolt 1201310
84. Thermostat Handle Bolt 1201243
85. Ash Pan Assy5 30001690
86. Flat Washer 1202475
87. Flue Collar See Chart Pg. 4
88. Leg See Chart Pg. 4
89. Finish Bag 30001695
90. Washer, 1/4 Flat 1202471
91. Hex Head Jam Nut 1203290
92. Bottom Heat Shield (not shown) 1400008
93. Ashdoor Heat Shield (not shown) 1401911
94. HS Spacer 1.25” (not shown) 1601755
95. Control Spacer (not shown) 1201781
Defiant Woodburning Stove Model 1945 (continued)

WS - 4
CFM Corporation Replacement Parts
Wood Stove Products
Shell Enamel Parts - Defiant
Enamel
Color Top Left Side Right Side Front Ashlip Leg
Classic 30001582 30001580 30001579 30001578 1300621 30001583
Biscuit 30002967 30002963 30002962 30002964 30002961 30002968
Bordeaux 30002957 30002953 30002952 30002954 30002951 30002958
Chestnut Brown 30002977 30002973 30002972 30002974 30002971 30002978
Ebony 30002987 30002983 30002982 30002984 30002981 30002988
Forest Green 30001627 30001626 30001625 30001624 2310621 30001628
Midnight Blue 30001621 30001620 30001619 30001618 2370621 30001622
Sand 30001615 30001614 30001613 30001612 1320621 30001616
Suede Brown 30002578 30002574 30002573 30002575 30002583 30002580
Vermont
Classic Green 30002997 30002993 30002992 30002994 30002991 30002998
Shell Enamel Parts - Defiant
Enamel Left Door Left Door Right Door Right Door
Color Flue Collar Subassembly Only Subassembly Only
Classic 30001576 30001719* 1300626 30001718* 1300625
Biscuit 30002947 30002970 30002966 30002969 30002965
Bordeaux 30002921 30002960 30002956 30002959 30002955
Chestnut Brown 30002932 30002980 30002976 30002979 30002975
Ebony 30002910 30002990 30002986 30002989 30002985
Forest Green 30001623 30001725 2310626 30001724 2310625
Midnight Blue 30001617 30001723 2370626 30001722 2370625
Sand 30001611 30001721 1320626 30001720 1320625
Suede Brown 30002579 30002582 30002577 30002581 30002576
Vermont
Classic Green 30002943 30003000 30002996 30002999 30002995
Gaskets
1203588 5/16” Medium Density 6ND Fiberglass Gasket
4.2’ Upper Fireback
3.5’ Damper
4.3’ Lower Fireback
1203589 3/8” Low Density 6ND Fiberglass Gasket
2.8’ Right Door
3.9’ Left Door
3.9’ Ashdoor
4.7’ Each Air Plate
1203556 Gasket, Fiberglass 3/16” 4nd, Blk 3.5’ each
Glass
1203518 Preformed 1/8 Gasket 1 Primary Air Frame
1203668 5/16” Gasket
Wire Fiberglass w/Core 4.25’ Griddle (top)
30001910 7/16” Adhesive Backed Gasket 4.2’ Flue Collar
Packed Inside the Stove (Stove Bag - 30001695)
1205116 1/8” Allen Wrench
1205147 5/32” Allen Wrench
1202061 #10 x 3/4” black Sheet Metal Screw Phillips
Pan Head (3 for stovepipe)
1600657 Griddle Knob
1600070 Griddle Handle Spacer
1202475 Flat 1/4” Washer
1201895 Griddle Handle Bushing (2 used)
1200907 1/4-20 x 1” Phillips Round Hd Black (Griddle
Handle Screw)
1600664 Damper Wood Handle
1201310 1/4-20 x 3” Slotted Pan Hd (Damper Handle
Screw)
0004345 Ceramic Fallaway Handle Assembly
20006381 - Handle
30002714 - Lifter
1201294 - Screw
1600660 Thermostat Wood Handle
Defiant Woodburning Stove
Model 1945 (continued)
*NOTE: Does not contain glass or glass gasket.

120-1374 1/4-20 X 3/4” Hex Head Cap Screw 120-1337 1/4-20 x 3/8” Hex Head Cap Screw
( 2-each door hinge strip )
120-0998 10-24 x ½ ” Zinc Phillips Pan Head Screw
( 2-each of 4 glass clips )
120-0980 10-24 x ¼” Phillips Pan Head Screw
( 2-secondary air assembly )
120-1372 1/4-20 x 5/8” Black Hex Head Cap Screw 120-0414 1/4-20 x 1 ¼” Cup Point Socket Set Screw
( 2-front air manifold to front ) ( 1-damper ramp adjuster )
120-2474 Washer, Zinc ¼” Flat 120-0809 1/4-20 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Screw
( 1-damper ramp )
120-2470 Washer, 1/4 Plain Flat 7/8 OD
120-0865 1/4-20 x 5/8” Zinc Flat Head Phillips Screw
( 2-ashlip to bottom, 1-top to front ) 120-2560 3/8 Narrow Washer
120-0482 1/4-20 x ½” Black Socket Flat Head Cap Screw ( 1-damper rod )
( 1-top to front [replaced 120-0482] ) 120-1779 7/16” Narrow Spacer
120-3210 1/4-20 Hex Nut ( 1-damper rod )
( 2- top to ends, 2-damper ramp) 120-0417 1/4-20 x ¼” Knl Cup Point socket Set Screw
120-4212 1/4-20 x 1 ¼” Threaded Rod ( 1-thermostat stub )
( 2-top to ends ) 120-3329 1/4-20 Plain Square Nut
120-0996 10-24 x ¼” - Z Truss Head Phillips ( 2-flue collar to top )
( 4-back heat shield taps ) 120-0907 1/4-20 x 1” Black Phillips Round Head Screw
120-1340 1/4-20 x ½” SS Hex Head Cap Screw ( 2-flue collar to top, 1-griddle handle )
( 2-andiron shelf ) 120-0896 1/4-20 x 5/8” Black Phillips Round Head Screw
120-1846 Friction Spring ( 2-primary air valve to bottom )
( 1-primary air control ) 120-6061 Ash Pan Hinge Pin 5”
120-1899 5/16 Hole Plug ( 1-bottom assembly )
( 1-stove back ) 120-1152 3/8-16 x ½” Zinc Slot Round Head
120-2471 Washer, ¼” Flat .294 id x .620 od SS ( 4-leg hole filler for shipping only)
( primary air assembly ) 120-1745 1/4-20 x 1 – Z Hex Head Leveller Bolt
30001794 1/4-20 x 3/8” Black Socket Head Cap Screw ( 1-in each of the four legs )
( 1-primary air valve ) 120-1895 Bushing
120-0992 10-24 x 1” Zinc Phillips Pan Head Screw ( 2-griddle handle )
( 2-ashdoor shield taps ) 120-2475 Washer, ¼ Narrow Flat
120-1376 1/4-20 x 1” Black Hex Head Cap Screw ( 1-griddle handle )
( 1-top ashdoor hinge to bottom ) 120-1430 3/8-16 x ¾” Hex Head Bolt
120-1322 10-24 x ½” Zinc Hex Head Cap Screw ( 4-legs to bottom )
( 4-heat shield taps in bottom ) 120-2488 3/8 – Z Flat Washer
120-3290 3/8-16 Toplock Zinc Hex Head Jam Nut ( 4-legs to bottom )
( 1-ashdoor pawl, 1 front door pawl ) 120-1310 1/4-20 x 3” –Z Slot Pan Head
120-848 1/4-20 x 2” Black Phillips Pan Head ( 1-damper handle )
120-1294 1/4-20 x 3 3/8” Slot Oval Head
( 1-fallaway handle )
120-0811 1/4-20 x 1 1/4” Black Ph Pan Head Screw 120-1243 8-32 x 2” – Z Slot Round Head
( 1-thermostat knob )
160-1488 Damper Tab
120-1338 1/4-20 x ½” Hex Head Cap Screw ( 2-upper fireback, 1-damper )
( 1-each griddle quad, 2-damper tabs UFB, 1-
dam
p
er for tab
)
( 3-bottom to side and front, 2-each side to
top, 2-andiron shelf, 1-each side to back, 2-
each door hin
g
e stri
p
)
( 3-bottom to side and front, 1-each side to
front, 4-upper fireback to back, 2-each air
plate to sides, 2-ashpan bracket to ash
door, 1-each side to back, 1-each side to
to
p,
1-center of front air manifold to front
)
( 4-upper fireback to back, 1-front air
manifold to front, 2-each air plate to sides, 3-
bottom bracket to bottom, 1-top hinge to
bottom
)
( 2- side primary air cover plate holes to
bottom
)
( 1-back primary air cover plate hole to
bottom
)
DEFIANT 1945 HARDWARE

SERVICE PROCEDURES
DEFIANT Model 1945
This section covers repairs and adjustments to the model 1945 Defiant Stoves built since
2002. Most service procedures for this model are identical to those for the previous model
1910 Defiant .
Wear gloves, a dust mask and protective eyewear when servicing a stove.
REPLACING THE REFRACTORY PACKAGE
1. Open the damper and remove the handle stub (“faucet”).
2. Remove the slotted andirons and andiron shelf. Remove the two 7/16” hex head bolts.
Lift out the andirons and the shelf.
3. Remove the throat baffle by lifting straight up and disengaging the support brackets on
the lower fireback. Take it out of the stove. See Fig. 1
4. Pry the firebrick retainer clip off the firebricks. Remove the bricks and the clip (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 Remove Throat Baffle

5. Pry up and remove the left and right wedges. Pull the lower fireback forward and remove
it from the firebox. You may need to lift it slightly to remove it. Slide the top of the
lower fireback forward and simply lift it out of the firebox (Fig. 3).
6. If the damper is closed, open it. Use an Allen key wrench to remove the damper handle
stub from the left end of the damper rod.
7. If in place, remove the rear heat shield. Use a 7/16” ratchet socket to remove the four
bolts at the top/back of the stove holding the upper fireback assembly in place.
8. Remove the upper fireback assembly by swinging its right end forward. Watch the left
end to be sure it clears its hole in the left side of the stove. Capture the damper rod
spacer in the left side of the stove and make sure the small washer stays on or with the
damper rod. Removing the right air plate (2 - 7/16 hex head cap screws) may make the
removal of the upper fireback easier.
9. Remove the left and right stainless steel deflectors.
10. Gently slide the entire refractory package straight forward and remove it. Do not lift the
chamber until it has cleared the secondary air probe stick through the back of the
assembly or remove the probe on the back of the stove before sliding the package out.
The chamber is very fragile and must be handled with care.
11. Remove the access panel and the catalytic element from the old refractory package.
Install the catalytic element in the new refractory package and insert new access panel.
12. Reverse the above procedure to complete the installation
Fig. 2 Remove Bricks Fig. 3 Remove Lower Fireback

REPLACING THE PRIMARY AIR CABLE
1. Remove the throat baffle.
2. Remove the right wedge lodged between the right wear plate and the lower fireback and
bricks.
3. Remove the right wear plate (bolts at top and bottom, 7/16” heads).
4. Remove the thermostat handle from the thermostat stem with an Allen wrench.
5. Pull the thermostat and stem assembly into the firebox. Be sure to hang onto the friction
spring on the stem.
6. Remove the primary air frame and valve assembly. Pull the frame away from the stove
bottom and to the right gently, to protect the primary air rod.
7. Detach the old cable from both ends. Be sure to keep the small clip that joins the upper
end of the cable to the thermostat.
8. Fish the new cable through the primary air opening at the bottom of the right side of the
firebox and through the primary air frame opening at the back bottom of the stove.
9. Attach both ends of the cable. Be sure the cable hangs properly from the rod on the
thermostat stem, and passes under the stem. Be sure the friction spring is on the
thermostat stem; push the stem through its hole in the stove side and re-attach the handle
with the Allen bolt. Swing the handle back and forth to ensure that there’s a bit of
tension on the friction spring. If there’s not enough tension on the spring to hold the
thermostat assembly in place when you release it, loosen the Allen bolt on the handle
stem and push the stem further out through the stove side, and re-attach the handle.
10. Clean the primary air frame and its mating surface of any old stove cement. Bolt the
frame back into position, and test the thermostat action to be sure the valve nearly closes
when the handle is swung fully to the rear.
11. Replace the right wear plate, with the two hex bolts, and replace the wedge that held the
lower fireback and bricks in place.
12. Replace throat baffle.

ADJUSTING THE DAMPER
The tension on the Defiant’s damper is adjustable to compensate for compression of the
gasket that seals the damper to the upper fireback. To adjust the damper:
1. Remove the griddle. Loosen the lock nut in the centre of the damper (Fig. 3).
2. Use the Allen wrench supplied with your stove; turn the pressure screw about one-half
turn clockwise to increase the tension or counter-clockwise to lessen the tension.
3. Test the damper’s closing action. Do not over-tighten the screw, as this can cause
binding when the parts expand under heat.
4. When the damper closes smoothly and snugly, tighten the lock nut and replace the
griddle. (Fig. 3)
ADJUSTING THE FRONT DOORS
The doors are factory-set to ensure a good seal between them and the stove front. If
necessary you can adjust their position slightly by loosening the bolts that hold them to the
hinge strips on their edges.
Defiant doors are held on by two hinge pins which are secured to the inside of the door with
a hinge strip held on by two 7/16” hex head bolts. To adjust the door properly you must first
determine which door or doors are out of alignment. To do this, close the doors slowly and
observe how they line up. Do not remove the doors from the unit. Based on what you see,
slightly back off the bolts in the hinge strip holding the misaligned door so that the door may
move relative to the hinge strip and pins. Close the doors again and adjust the loosened door
so that it fits properly with the other door. Carefully open the door again and re-tighten the
hinge strip bolts. Reclose and check to ensure a good fit. Repeat until a desirable fit is
achieved. Be patient. It may require several attempts.
.
Fig. 4 Damper components
Fig. 3 Adjust the damper

REPLACING THE TOP
1. Remove the stovetop griddle and the flue collar.
2. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the countersunk bolt going through the top at “A” in
Fig. 5 below.
3. Use the 7/6" box wrench, and the ratchet with the 7/16" socket to remove a hex nut and the
washer from the two threaded studs passing through clevises at “B” in Fig. 5 below.
4. Use the rubber mallet or a hammer with a block of wood (to cushion the impact), to gently
tap against the underside of the stove top all around the perimeter inside the firebox. This
will break the cement seal between the stovetop and the rest of the stove body. When the top
moves independently of the stove body, carefully lift it off and set it aside. Be especially
careful if the panel is enameled. It is heavy so it may take two people to lift off the top.
5. Carefully clean all the cemented ends on the stove sides, front and back with a hammer
and a chisel. These surfaces must be as clean as possible for a proper refitting of the top.
Take care not to damage porcelain surfaces as cured furnace cement will remove the
porcelain finish it is adhered to during any cleaning process.
6. Dry fit the top to make sure there is no rocking caused by uneven cleaning of the stove
body parts. The top should fit snugly with no excessive rocking. If uneven, re-clean or
gently file any high spots. Installing the top with an uneven top surface could cause cracking
of the new top.
7. To assemble the top, apply cement to the perimeter grooves on the underside of the
stovetop in the same locations as the old top. It may take two people to lift the top and flip it
over. Carefully lift the top, flip it right-side up, and place it on the stove body. When settling
down, align the threaded stud on each end with the mating clevises at B as shown in
exploded view. Put washers and hex nuts on the studs; tighten hand-tight. Install a
countersunk bolt at A as shown in the exploded view and tighten all the three pieces of
hardware. Do not attempt to make up for an uneven top fit by over tightening the hardware.
8. Carefully clean any excess stove cement from the outside surfaces with a damp cloth.
This is especially important for any porcelain surfaces.
9. Install new griddle and flue collar gaskets and re-install the griddle and flue collar.
10. Smoke test the top if possible to check for sealing

Fig.5 Replace the Defiant top

GASKETING THE DAMPER/UPPER FIREBACK
1. Remove the throat Baffle from the fireback lifting it up and off the retaining tabs in the
upper fireback (Fig. 6).
2. Remove the left and right wedges that hold the lower fireback and bricks in place, and
remove the lower fireback brick retainer and bricks (Fig. 7)
3. Remove the left and right inner walls – each has a hex-head bolt at top and bottom.
These inner walls are gasketed so you’re not breaking a cement seal here. You may need
to pry these walls out with a screwdriver going into notches at their forward edges--if the
stove is enameled, protect the surfaces near the notch.
4. Remove the Allen bolt from the damper handle, and slide the handle off.
5. The fireback is held in place by two hex head bolts on each upper side of the back.
Remove the four bolts.
6. Remove the upper fireback assembly through the firebox. You may need to use a large
screwdriver to pry it loose from the stove back. As you face the stove, remove the right-
hand end first.
7. Remove the damper from the upper fireback by removing bolted tabs at each end.
8. Remove the original gasketing by pulling it out of its channel, and then clean the channel
with a wire brush.
9. Apply a narrow bead of stove cement to the bottom of the gasket groove, and lay the
gasketing into the channel. Do not stretch or bunch the gasket unless you need to
compensate for parts that have changed shape slightly. Close the damper and lock it
closed; check the seal with a slip of paper to ensure tightness. Leave the damper closed
for a few hours if you can, to ensure that the cement sets up well.
10. Work in reverse order to re-install the upper fireback; apply cement to the backs of the
ends of the upper fireback before re-installing.
Fig.7 Remove Lower FirebackFig.6 Remove Throat Baffle

TIGHTENING THE PRIMARY AIR HANDLE
The primary air handle may fall down to the half open position and feel loose. There is a
friction spring on the inside of the stove that must be under tension to work. The actual air
damper handle is the mechanism that holds the spring tight.
1. Using the Allen key supplied with your stove, remove the primary air handle. You
will see the “D” shaft of the primary air thermostat assembly protruding.
2. Using a socket set with a 7/16” socket, remove the two bolts holding the gasketed
right air plate on the inside of the right side and slide the plate out of the stove.
3. Ensure the spring and washer are in place on the primary air thermostat assembly.
The washer goes on the inside of the spring.
4. While pushing in on the assembly to compress the friction spring, slide the handle
back onto the shaft lining up the flat part of the shaft with the Allen key location on
the handle. Push the handle tight against the tight side. Tighten the Allen key to hold
the handle in place and the friction spring engaged. The final step is easier done with
two sets of hands.

DISASSEMBLY and ASSEMBLY
DEFIANT Model 1945
GENERAL INFORMATION
The cast-iron construction of the Defiant stove uses tongue-and-groove seams to join and
seal panels to one another. The stove’s top and bottom panels trap the sides, front, and back
panels. You will work from the inside first, to remove parts from the firebox, then from the
top down on the main stove panels.
Required tools are listed in the next paragraph. Work carefully, since cast iron parts are
heavy, and the enamel finish is fragile. Work in a well-lighted space such as a workshop or
garage. If possible, place the stove on an elevated surface. Stove work is messy; wear a dust
mask, goggles, and gloves, and use a drop cloth to contain the mess.
Tools Required
Rubber malletAllen wrench
Phillips screwdriverHammer and wooden block
Slotted screwdriver
Cold chisel or old screwdriver
Putty knife and tube of stove cement, or caulking gun with
Tube of cement
Wire brush (power driven or hand-held)
7/16” box wrench
Ratchet wrench with 7/16” socket
Begin by looking at the exploded view parts diagram on page 2 after the history. Note that
in these directions ‘left and ‘right’ mean as you face the stove.
Remove the stove pipe and any accessories attached to the stove: warming shelves, bottom
or back heat shields, or outside air adapter. Support the stove so that its cast-iron bottom
panel is up on solid, secure wooden blocks or solid raised surface. There are four brackets on
the stove bottom; these locate the stove on its shipping pallet. Be sure your wooden supports
are not directly under these brackets, to ensure stability.
If the stove is a ‘Classic’ (plain black) unit, and the replacement side is not painted when
you receive it, paint it before you start dismantling the stove, so the paint can dry completely
while you work. Two thin coats of paint are better than a single heavy coat; let the first coat
dry completely before you apply the second coat.
To make it easier to raise or move the stove, perform disassembly steps 1 through 9 before
you move the stove or raise it on blocks or an elevated work surface.

DISASSEMBLY
Ensure the stove is cool. Remove any ashes and dispose of them properly. Remember that
the ashes and embers can stay hot long after the fire has gone out.
1. Lift off the griddle (#15). Open the ashpan door (#53) and remove the ashpan (#85).
It will be a handy place to store small parts.
2. Remove the front doors. Unlatch the right door, swing it open, then lift it till its
bottom hinge pin clears its hole in the lower part of the stove front. Swing the bottom
edge of the door away from the stove, and lower the door till its upper hinge pin
clears its hole; then pull the door away, Set it down carefully on a padded surface out
of the way. Repeat the removal procedure for the left door.
3. Lift out the grate (#38) and use a wrench to remove the hex-head bolts and washers
holding the two andirons in place. Lift out the andirons (48) and the andiron shelf
(#49).
4. Loosen the Allen bolts holding the thermostat and damper handles in place, and
remove the handles (Fig. 8).
5. Remove the throat Baffle (Fig. 9) by pulling its bottom edge forward till it clears the
ribs on the lower fireback; then slide it to either side. It will the fall into the firebox.
Tap out the wedges (#44 & 45) holding the lower fireback and bricks (#46) in place.
Remove the firebrick retainer (#47) and remove the bricks. Let the fireback (#27),
fall forward and lift it out. You may need to lift it slightly to remove it.
6. Remove the left and right air plates (#33 & 34). Each has a hex bolt at top and
bottom holding it in place. With the bolts removed, gently pry the plates out of place.
Pry the forward edge first, being careful to avoid any pressure on nearby outer shell
parts, especially if they are enameled. There is fiberglass rope gasket on the outer
sides of these panels; leave it in place.
Fig.8 Remove Primary Air Handle Fig. 9 Remove Baffle

7. Remove the upper fireback assembly (#19). It is held in place with four bolts going
inward from the upper corners of the outer stove back. Remove the upper fireback
assembly by swinging its right end forward. Watch the left end to be sure the damper
rod clears its hole in the left side of the stove. Capture the spacer from between the
left side of the upper fireback, and the left side of the stove and keep the washer on
the rod.
8. Remove the Flue Collar (#87). The Flue Collar is held in place by two Phillips head
screws and two square nuts. Hold the nuts from falling inside the rear of the stove.
9. Remove the left and right stainless steel heat deflectors (#7 and #8) from the back of
the stove. Gently slide the refractory insulating chamber (#9) forward, and remove it.
Leave the catalyst access panel (#11) and the catalytic element (#10) in place in the
chamber. Do not lift the chamber till it has cleared the secondary probe thermometer
which enters its rear face (or remove the probe from the back). The chamber can take
very high temperatures but it is physically fragile; handle it carefully.
10. Disconnect the thermostat cable (#66) from the thermostat rod, and remove the
thermostat assembly (#37) by pulling it into the firebox. Be sure to keep the small
coil friction spring that is on the main stem.
11. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the countersunk bolt going through the top
(#69) at the front under the griddle (See Point “A” Fig. 5).
12. Use the 7/16” box wrench, and then the ratchet with the 7/16” socket, to remove a hex
nut and washer from the two threaded studs passing through clevises in the upper
sides holding the top in place (See Point “B” Fig. 5).
13. Use the rubber mallet, or a hammer with a block of wood to cushion the impact, to
gently tap against the underside of the stove top, all around the perimeter, inside the
firebox, to break the cement seal between the stove top and the rest of the stove body.
When the top moves independently of the stove body, carefully lift it off and set it
aside. Be especially careful if the panel is enameled. It is heavy; it may take two
people to lift off the top. Since the top traps the stove back in place, either have a
helper hold the stove back up while you remove the top or put a strap around
the stove body before you remove the top. Then remove the back.
14. Remove one side, then the other. Remove the hex bolts joining the stove sides to the
bottom assembly. Use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a wooden block to tap
outward, from the inside, along the joints between the stove side and the bottom and
back panels. Have your helper steady the stove body while you gently rock the stove
side. When the side moves independently of the rest of the stove, pull it away from
the stove body and set it aside.

15. Swing open the ashdoor and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two counter-
sunk bolts holding the ashlip, #43, in place. Slide the ashlip forward and set it aside.
Remove the bolts joining the ends to the front panel. Remove the bolts joining the
front panel to the bottom assembly. Use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a wooden
block to tap outward, from the inside, along the joint between the stove sides and the
front panel, and between the front panel and the bottom assembly. When the front
panel moves independent of the rest of the stove, have a helper steady the stove body
while you pull the front panel (#65) (with the air manifold, #64 still attached) away
from the rest of the stove. Set it down carefully on a soft, padded surface.
16. Remove the air tube cover (#39). It has one bolt at each side going downward into
the stove bottom and one at the back.
17. Flip the bottom assembly over and remove the legs. Remove the bolts in the ashdoor
hinge supports (#57 & #40) and remove the ash door (#53).
18. Remove the air manifold from the front. It has three hex head bolts.
19. Examine all castings for cracks, chips or distortions. Repair of replace as needed.
ASSEMBLY
HARDWARE
In most locations, standard hardware is adequate. However, we use either stainless steel or
‘Grade 5’ hardware to join major body panels in original manufacture. If you lose any of this
hardware, be sure to use stainless or Grade 5 hardware as replacements, to ensure good
performance from the stove. Stainless steel internal hardware will be move user friendly in
the future.
Hardware should be snug but not tight. The hardware aligns parts and draws them together,
but it is the cement that provides the seal between parts. The cast iron will expand under heat
more than the hardware (since the iron is less dense) and if the hardware is too tight it can
cause extra stress on the iron parts.

GASKETING
If you are replacing gaskets as part of standard maintenance, refer to the Maintenance
Section of the Owner’s Guide.
If you are replacing all gaskets as while re-building a firebox, follow the instructions given
below. Prepare parts carefully. Channels must be free of old gasketing, cement and paint,
and free of dust.
Use high quality gasket cement.
Work in an area where there is plenty of light and a level work surface. Wear gloves and
protective eyewear.
If you will install gaskets on clean, new parts, start with step 3. If you are going to re-gasket
old parts, they will need to be cleaned. Start with step 1.
1. Remove old gaskets. If the ends of the gasket meet, note where the joint is.
2. Clean the channels. Use a hammer and cold chisel or screwdriver to remove old cement.
Vacuum the channel to remove dust.
3. Choose the correct size gasket. Cut it to the right length, allowing an inch extra for
trimming.
4. Wipe the channel to be gasketed with a damp cloth. Place an unbroken 1/8” bead of
cement in the channel. Avoid using too much cement. The cement should not saturate
the gasket, just hold it in place.
5. Starting with one end, lightly press the gasket into the cemented channel. Trim excess
gasket with shears or side cutting pliers. Do not leave any ragged ends. If the ends of the
gasket meet, there should be no gaps or overlaps. Do not stretch the gasket as this will
make it too thin. A thin gasket may not make a good seal.
6. If possible, place the gasketed part against the surface it will meet. This will seat the
gasket evenly.
7. Clean any excess cement that has squeezed out around the gasket.
8. After installing new gaskets, it may be necessary to make adjustments on the damper or
load door. Refer to your Owner’s Guide.

Parts which need to be gasketed include:
Part Gasket Size Gasket Part No.
Left front door (Fig. G-1 & G2) 5/16” x 48” 120-3588
Right front door (Fig. G-3) 5/16” x 36” 120-3588
Front door (G-1 & G-3) 3/16” x 42” 120-3556
Griddle (Fig. G-4) 5/16” x 52” 120-3668
Flue collar (Fig. G-5) 7/16” x 52” 30001910
Upper fireback (Fig. G-6) [damper] 5/16” x 42” 120-3588
Upper Fireback (Fig. G-6) 5/16” x 52” 120-3588
Ashdoor (Fig. G-7) 5/16” x 48” 120-3588
Left wear plate (Fig. G-8) 3/8” x 60” 120-3589
Right wear plate (Fig. G-9) 3/8” x 60” 120-3589
Primary air valve (Fig. G-10) Preformed Gasket 120-3518
Lower fireback (Fig. G-11) 5/16” x 55” 120-3588
Fig. G-1 Left Door Inside View
5/16” x 48” Fiberglass door to front
3/16” x 42” Fiberglass glass to door
Fig. G-2 Left Door Outside View
Gasket which wraps around from the back.
Fig. G-3 Right Door Inside View
5/16” x 36” Fiberglass door to front
3/16” x 42” Fiberglass glass to door
Fig. G-4 Top
5/16” x 52” Fiberglass Griddle to top