Vermont Castings The Intrepid II 1990CE Mounting instructions

Homeowner’s
Installation and
Operating Manual
For use in Europe
Do Not Discard This Manual: Retain for Future Use
30003840 2/08 Rev. 1
The Intrepid II
Woodburning Stove
Model 1990CE
SAFETY NOTICE: IF THIS APPLIANCE IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAIN-
TAINED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. FAILURE TO
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN
DEATH. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION
INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
0966
Intrepid Cover
11/00

2
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Welcome
All of us at CFM Corporation
Ask your Vermont Castings dealer how these instal-
lation accessories can enhance the versatility, ap-
pearance, and safety of your Intrepid Stove.
0307 Bottom Heat Shield
0172 Rear Heat Shield
Chimney connector heat shields
Heavy-gauge enamel pipe to match the stove’s
color
Warming shelves
0098 Classic Black 1375 Suede Brown
1362 Sand 1376 Biscuit
1365 Green 1377 Chestnut Brown
1371 Bordeaux 1378 Ebony
1372 Midnight Blue 1379 Vt. Classic Green
0136 Spark screen for open-fireplace use
Short Legs
0868 Classic Black 1525 Suede Brown
1512 Sand 1527 Biscuit
1510 Green 1530 Chestnut Brown
1515 Bordeaux 1535 Ebony
1520 Midnight Blue 1537 Vt. Classic Green
3258 Outside air kit
Save These Instructions For Future Reference
Table of Contents
Specifications .................................... 3
Installation ......................................... 4
Clearances ........................................ 9
Assembly ......................................... 11
Operation ......................................... 12
Draft Management ........................... 18
Maintenance .................................... 20
Catalytic Combustor ........................ 22
Replacement Parts .......................... 27
Warranty .......................................... 30
Congratulations on your choice of a Vermont Castings Intrepid II. With this purchase, you made a commitment to
make the hearth a place of warmth, beauty and comfort in your home. At CFM Corporation, we share that joy and ap-
preciation of the hearth, and we show it in all our cast iron stoves and fireplaces.
As you become acquainted with your new stove, you will find the aesthetic appeal of cast iron is matched only by its
superb capacity to absorb and radiate heat.
Also, CFM Corporation products are among the cleanest burning wood stoves and fireplaces available today. As an
owner of a CFM Corporation stove, you are making a strong statement for pollution-free energy. But clean burning
depends on both the manufacturer and the operator. Please read this manual carefully to understand how to properly
operate your stove.
At CFM Corporation, we are equally committed to your satisfaction as a customer and that is why we maintain an
exclusive network of the finest dealers in the industry. Chosen for their expertise and dedication to customer service,
our dealers are factory-trained and know each CFM Corporation product in detail. Feel free to contact your Authorized
Vermont Castings Dealer anytime you have a question about your stove or its performance.
We have built your Vermont Castings Intrepid II with the utmost care. With normal use and proper care, it will provide
you with many years of service.
This manual contains valuable instructions on the installation and operation of your Vermont Castings stove. You will
also find useful information on assembly and maintenance procedures. We urge you to read the manual thoroughly
and to keep it as a reference.
Sincerely,

3
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Specifications
Intrepid II, Model 1990CE
545 mm
(21")
510 mm (20")
640 mm
(25")
Top exit
flue collar
height
540 mm (21")
610 mm
(24")
180 mm
(7")
545 mm (21")
C
L
540 mm (21")
460 mm (18")
31 mm
(1")
520 mm
(20")
350 mm (13")
3840
Intrepid EU
specifications
7/06
DRAWINGS NOT TO SCALE
Fig. 1 Intrepid II 1990CE dimensions.
Nominal heat output ..............6.2 kW (21, 100 BTU/hr)1
Minimum flue draught ......................12 Pa (0.048” WG)
Mean flue gas temp .............................. 337° C (639° F)
Efficiency (space heating) ...................................72.8%
Area heated ................... Up to 112 sq. m (1200 sq. ft.)1
Fuel size/type .................................410 mm (16”) wood
Flue mass gas flow ............................................. 5.6 g/s
CO Emissions (@ 13% O2) ...........................2900 ppm
Loading ....................................................... Front or top
Chimney connector .................... 152 mm (6”) diameter
Chimney flue size .......................152 mm (6”) minimum
Flue exit position ....................... Reversible, top or rear
Primary air ......Manual set, thermostatically maintained
Secondary air .........................................Self-regulating
Ash handling system ..................... Removable ash pan
Glass panels .........................High temperature ceramic
Weight ................................................ 101 kg (233 lbs.)
Width (leg-to-leg) .................................. 545 mm (21¹⁄₂”)
Depth (leg-to-leg) ................................. 350 mm (13³⁄₄”)
Height to top of flue collar:
with regular legs .......................635 mm (25”) top exit
............................................... 610 mm (24”) rear exit
with optional short legs .............535 mm (21”) top exit
............................................ 500 mm (19³⁄₄”) rear exit
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove
is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel
used, as well as the design, construction and climatic
location of your home. Figures shown are based on
nominal fuel consumption obtained under laboratory
conditions and on average efficiencies.

4
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Installation
SAFETY NOTICE: IF YOUR STOVE IS NOT PROP-
ERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. TO
REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE, FOLLOW THE INSTAL-
LATION INSTRUCTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILD-
ING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS
AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS
IN YOUR AREA.
Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
see that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far
enough from combustible material to meet all
clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is con-
structed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local author-
ities.
Your local building official is the final authority for ap-
proving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
every Vermont Castings stove indicates the stove has
been tested to current standards. The test standard
is EN13240:2001 + A2:2004 for Europe. Clearance
and installation information also is printed on the label.
When the stove is installed according to the information
both on the label and in this manual, local authorities
in most cases will accept the label as evidence that the
installation meets codes and can be approved.
However, codes vary in different countries. Before
starting the installation, review your plans with the local
building authority. You local dealer can provide any ad-
ditional information needed.
IMPORTANT: Failure to follow these installation
instructions may result in a dangerous situation, in-
cluding a chimney or house fire. Follow all instruc-
tions exactly, and do not allow makeshift compro-
mises to endanger property and personal safety.
All local regulations, including those referring to
national and European standards, need to be com-
plied with when installing this stove.
Outside Air
In some modern, super-insulated homes, there is not
enough air for combustion because of insufficient air
infiltration into the building. Such air enters a home
through unsealed cracks and openings. Kitchen or bath
exhaust fans can compete with the stove for available
air and compound the problem.
When poor draft is caused by a low infiltration rate,
opening a ground floor window on the windward side
of the house and in the vicinity of the stove will usually
alleviate the problem.
Another solution is to install a permanent outside air
supply to the stove and/or room. In some areas, in
fact, bringing air for combustion from outside the home
directly to the air inlet of the stove is required for new
construction.
An outside air supply is not affected by pressure varia-
tions within the house, and improved stove perfor-
mance often results. An Outside Air Adaptor Kit for the
Intrepid II is available from your local Vermont Castings
dealer.
What Kind of Chimney to Use
Your Intrepid II must be connected to a code-approved
masonry chimney with a flue liner, to a relined masonry
chimney that meets local codes, or to a prefabricated
metal chimney. Whatever kind you use, the chimney
and chimney connector must be in good condition and
kept clean. Figure 2 shows the two chimney types.
ST241
chimney types
12/13/99 djt
A prefabricated
double-wall insu-
lated chimney
A tile-lined ma-
sonry chimney
ST241
Fig. 2 Standard chimney types.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is
installed. Your local professional chimney sweep, build-
ing inspector, or fire department official will be able to
inspect the chimney or provide a referral to someone
who can.
The flue and chimney design must meet requirement
J2, Part J of the building regulations 2000 (Combustion
Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).

5
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Masonry Chimneys
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
should have no cracks, loose mortar, other signs of
deterioration, or blockage. Repair any defects before
using the chimney with your stove.
Seal any unused openings in an existing masonry chim-
ney with masonry to the thickness of the chimney wall,
and repair the chimney liner. Openings sealed with pie
plates or wallpaper are a hazard; seal them with mortar
or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney fire,
flames and smoke may be forced out of these unused
thimbles.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved ma-
sonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s
clean-out door must seal tightly.
Prefabricated Chimneys
These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)
and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has
been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of
ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 200 mm
(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-
tion causing excessive cooling of the flue gases.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE
SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
Chimney Size
An Intrepid II is approved for venting into a masonry
chimney with a maximum flue size of 200 x 200 mm (8”
x 8”), and into a round flue size of 150 mm (6”).
It may not be vented into larger chimneys without a liner
to reduce the effective flue size to 150 mm (6”) diam-
eter. Larger chimneys must have their flues relined for
proper stove performance.
Accessories to make the connection between stainless
steel chimney liners and your Intrepid II are available
through your local dealer.
Chimney Connector Guidelines
Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chim-
ney is a masonry or prefabricated structure that enclos-
es the flue. Chimney connectors are used only to make
the connection from the stove to the chimney.
Connecting Flue Pipes
Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the
building regulations. This can be achieved by the use
connecting fluepipes included in the following catego-
ries:
a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS
6999: 1989 (1996);
b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS
EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.4432 or
1.4436 with flue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
c) Mild steel fluepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:
1991, with a flue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;
d) Cast iron fluepipes complying with BS 41: 1973
(1998).
Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be
fitted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-
densates and moisture within the flue. Joints should be
made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,
or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-
tible rope and fire cement.
Double-wall chimney connectors must be tested and
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Sin-
gle-wall chimney connectors should be made of 24
gauge or heavier steel, and should be 150 mm (6”) in
diameter. Do not use galvanized connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached by
smoke and gases, and may release toxic fumes under
high heat.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a com-
bustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the section follow-
ing on Wall Pass-Throughs. Do not pass the chimney
connector through an attic, a closet, or any similar con-
cealed space. The whole connector should be exposed
and accessible for inspection and cleaning.
In horizontal runs of single-wall chimney connector
without protective shields, maintain a clearance of at
least 660 mm (26”) from the ceiling.
Keep the horizontal run of chimney connector as short
and direct as possible, with no more than two 90° turns.
Slope horizontal runs of connector upward 20 mm per
m (1/4” per foot) going from the stove toward the chim-
ney. The recommended maximum length of a horizontal
run is 914 mm (36”). The recommended total length of
chimney connector is 2.4 m (8’).
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabri-
cated chimney down to within 2.4 m (8’) of the stove.
SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES AND PRO-
TECTIVE EYEWEAR WHEN DRILLING, CUTTING OR
JOINING SECTIONS OF CHIMNEY CONNECTOR.

6
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Double-wall Chimney Connector
Information on assembling and installing double-wall
connector is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to
the stove and chimney. Using connectors and chim-
neys from the same manufacturer makes the assembly
and installation straightforward.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall con-
nectors, minimum clearances must conform to the
listed clearances on Page 9.
Single-wall Chimney Connector
• Beginning at the flue collar of the stove, assemble
the chimney connector. Insert the first crimped end into
the stove’s flue collar, and
keep each crimped end
pointing toward the stove.
Using the holes in the
flue collar as guides, drill
3 mm (1/8”) holes in the
bottom of the first section
of chimney connector and
secure it to the flue collar
with three #10 x 1/2” sheet
metal screws.
• Secure each joint be-
tween sections of chimney
connector, including tel-
scoping joints, with at least
three sheet metal screws.
The pre-drilled holes in
the top of each section of
chimney connector serve as guides when you drill 3 mm
(1/8”) holes in the bottom of the next section.
• Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-
structions for various installations follow.
• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector
are correct distances from nearby combustible material.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-
nector are available to simplify installations. They often
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Prefabricated Chimney
For prefabricated chimneys, follow the installation
instructions of the chimney maker exactly as you install
the chimney. The maker of the chimney will supply the
accessories to support the chimney, either from the roof
of the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove
is installed, or from an exterior wall.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chim-
ney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapt-
ers attaches directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adap-
tor is screwed to the chimney connector.
These adapters are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
When assembled in this way, any soot or creosote fall-
ing from the inner walls of the chimney will stay inside
the chimney connector.
Securing the Single-wall Connector to a
Masonry Chimney
For masonry chimneys, both freestanding and fireplace
chimneys may be used for installation of your Intrepid II.
Freestanding Chimney Installations
If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-
tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-
tions in the Wall Pass-through section that follows.
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue (the
“breach”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal
cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is cemented firmly
in place. The fit must be snug and the joint between the
thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented. (Fig. 4)
ST492a
Intrepid II
freestanding
installation
11/00
I
N
T
R
E
P
I
D
I
I
Chimney
Elbow
Slip Pipe
Standard
Chimney
Connector
Flue Collar
Flue
Flue
Liner
Thimble
ST492a
Fig. 4 Chimney connection in a freestanding installation.
ST242
Chimney connector
12/13/99 djt
Fig. 3 The crimped end of
the connector points toward
stove.

7
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and most
thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney con-
nector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer. (Fig.
5)
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breach until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Do not extend it into
the actual flue passage, as this could interfere with the
draft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 25 - 50 mm (1-2”)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
Without a thimble, a suitable length of chimney con-
nector can be extended through the breach to the inner
face of the flue liner, and cemented securely in place.
Additional pieces of connector are then attached with
sheet metal screws.
Fireplace Chimney Installations -
Above a Fireplace
The Intrepid II may be connected to a chimney above a
fireplace opening also. In such installations, the stove is
positioned on the hearth in front of the fireplace and the
chimney connector rises from the stove top and then
angles ninety degrees back into the chimney. (Fig. 6)
The chimney liner should extend to the point at which
the chimney connector enters the chimney.
If the chimney connector from your installation enters
the chimney above a fireplace, follow all the guidelines
mentioned above for freestanding installations. In addi-
tion, give special consideration to the following points:
• Check the clearance between the stove and the
chimney connector, and any combustible trim or the
mantel. Use the necessary combination of mantel, trim,
and connector heat shields to achieve the required
clearances.
• Check the clearance between the chimney con-
nector and the ceiling. If no heat shields are used, the
clearance should be at least 660 mm (26”). To find out
how much this clearance may be reduced with heat
shields, see the clearance chart on Page 14.
• The fireplace damper must be sealed to prevent
room air from escaping up the flue. However, it must be
possible to re-open the damper to inspect or clean the
chimney.
Fireplace Chimney Installations -
Through a Fireplace
If your fireplace height is at least 635 mm (25”), you
may install an Intrepid II with standard legs through
the fireplace opening using a “positive connection” kit
available from your local dealer. These positive connec-
tion kits ensure a tight fit between the stove flue collar
and the chimney flue. (Fig. 7) Fireplace installations,
whether connected to the flue above or through the fire-
place opening, have special clearance requirements to
adjacent trim and the mantel. You will find the required
clearances for the Intrepid II fireplace installations on
Page 9.
Floor protection requirements also apply to fireplace
installations. Floor protection information is on Page 8.
ST243
thinble connection
12/13/99 djt
Thimble Sleeve
Chimney
Connector
Flue
Keep
sleeve
end
flush
with flue
tile
ST243
Fig. 5 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
ST244
Plymouth
fplc over mantel
12/99
Chimney Connector
Shields
* Check
These Clear-
ances
*
*
Mantel
Seal the
Damper
ST244
Fig. 6 Chimney connector enters chimney above the fire-
place.

8
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
T
ST494
steel
wall pass thru
11/00
INT
I
P
D
RE
I
I
460 mm (18”) clearance all
around the pipe
Flush Mounted
Sheet Metal
Cover
ST494a
Fig. 8 An approved wall pass-through.
ST245
fireplace
flex connector
12/99
Flexible Connector
Mantel Shield
Fireplace Adaptor Kit
ST245
Fig. 7 Chimney connector enters chimney through the fire-
place opening.
Wall Pass-Throughs
Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-
nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you
are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,
check with your building inspector before you begin.
Also, check with the chimney connector manufacturer
for any specific requirements.
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-
throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.
The following illustration shows one method of pass-
ing a connector througha wall. All combustible material
in the wall is cut away to provide the required 460 mm
( 18”) clearance for the connector. The resulting space
must remain empty. A flush-mounted sheet metal cover
may be used on one side only. If covers must be used
on both sides, each cover must be mounted on noncom-
bustible spacers at least 25 mm (1”) clear of the wall.
Your local dealer or your local building inspector can
provide details for other approved methods of passing
a chimney connector through a combustible wall in your
area.
DO NOT CONNECT AN INTREPID II TO ANY AIR
DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
Hearths
This appliance must be installed on to hearth that
meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-
lations 2000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage
Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the
hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the
guidelines included in section 2 of approved document
‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as fol-
lows:
The constructed hearth should be constructed in ac-
cordance with the recommendations in document J,
and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum
depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or
a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a
recessed hearth a) above).
ST247
Rear exit floor dgrm
12/14/99 djt
Wood framing requires
protection from radiant heat ST247a
Fig. 9 Supporting timbers under fireplace hearth are consid-
ered to be combustible.

9
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Costructional Hearth
Dimensions as below
At least
300 mm
At least 150 mm
or to a suitable
heat resistant wall
At least
150 mm
Hearth Surface
Free of Com-
bustible Material
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Appliance
Doors
Appliance
Doors
ST912
Fig. 10 Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.
a) Fireplace recess b) Free standing
Floor Protection for Fireplace Installations
Do not assume your fireplace hearth is completely
noncombustible.
Many fireplace hearths do not satisfy the “completely
noncombustible” requirement because the brick or
concrete in front of the fireplace opening is supported
by heavy wood framing as in Figure 9. Because heat
passes through brick or concrete readily, it can easily
pass through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace
hearths can be a fire hazard and are considered a com-
bustible floor.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend
less than the required clearance from the front of the
heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufficient
floor protection as described above must be added in
front of the hearth to satisfy the minimum floor protector
requirement from the front of the stove: 406 mm (16”)
from the front. Fireplace hearths must also offer the
required protection of 152 mm (6”) on either side.
Optional 76 mm (3”) short legs may be used only on
such hearths that meet the width and depth require-
ments outlined previously under “floor protection.”
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection.
Fireplace installations also have special clearance
requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and
fireplace mantle. Refer to the information on fireplace
and mantel trim shields in this section.
Keep the Stove a Safe Distance from
Surrounding Materials
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating, and dangerous overheat-
ing of nearby combustible materials can occur if they
are too close to the heat. A safe installation requires
that adequate clearance be maintained between the
hot stove and its connector and nearby combustibles.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove
(measured from the back edge of the stove’s top plate)
or chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the
ceiling, and any other fixed combustible surfaces. In
addition, furnishings and other combustible materials
must be kept away from the stove as well. In general, a
distance of 1220 mm (48”) must be maintained between
the stove and moveable combustible items such as dry-
ing clothes, furniture, newspapers, firewood, etc. Keep-
ing those clearance areas empty assures that nearby
surfaces and objects will not overheat.
Clearances
As with any solid fuel heating stove, extremely high
surface temperatures can occur, particularly in the
event of uncontrolled operation, e.g. if the doors
are inadvertently left open. It is crucial that suf-
ficient clearances are allowed to any combustible
surfaces, e.g. wooden mantels or lintels, and to
timber framed (studded) walls even if they are faced
with noncombustible board. Detailed information
on fireplace and hearth construction is provided
in section 2 of Document J, all installations must
comply with these requirements or with the relevant
National or local building standards.
Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are includ-
ed below. There are no specific minimum clearances
to solid noncombustible surfaces (e.g. the sides and
rear of Inglenook fire openings constructed from solid
masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls
of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances
of 125 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm
are recommended.

10
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Summary of Clearances
Minimum recommended side clearances to non-
combustible surfaces 125 mm (5”).
Minimum recommended rear clearance to noncom-
bustible surfaces 50 mm (2”).
NOTE: The minimum thickness of solid noncombus-
tible materials is specified in section 2 of Document ‘J’,
in relation to the clearance of the appliance from the
surface. As a general rule, the thickness of solid non-
combustible material forming the recess of a fireplace is
a minimum of 200 mm.
Minimum rear clearance from combustible walls
(e.g. timber framed or studded walls) 610 mm (24”)
measured from the rear edge of the stove top. (Fig.
11, B)
Minimum side clearance from combustible walls
610 mm (24”) measured from the side edge of the
stove top. (Fig. 11, A)
Minimum distance from stove to movable combus-
tible materials (e.g. furniture, drying clothes, etc.)
760 mm (30”).
ST486a
Defiant EU
Clearance
Diagrams
10/06
A
B
ST486a
Fig. 11 Minimum clearances.
Connecting Flue Pipe - Clearances
Single wall connecting fluepipes can reach extremely
high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-
necting fluepipe (chimney connector) must comply with
the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 2000
(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
This can be achieved by following the recommenda-
tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in
Figure 12.



D
at least
3 x D
Elevation
Without
Shield Elevation
With Shield
at least
3 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
Plan Without
Shield
Plan With
Shield
Air space of at least 12 mm
between noncombustible shield
and combustible material
Fluepipe
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least 3 x D Dat least
1.5 x D
ST911
Fig. 12 Connecting fluepipe clearances.

11
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Clean the Griddle Before Use
At the factory the griddle is coated with vegetable oil to
prevent rusting while the stove is in transit and storage.
Remove the oil with a dry rag or paper towel before you
use the stove.
Set Up the Stove
Remove any loose parts from inside the stove. Place a
protective pad on the floor, arrange some sections of 4
x 4 lumber on the pad for support, and carefully tip the
stove onto them, on its back.
Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws
from the stove bottom (Fig. 13) and install the stove
legs, using the hex head bolts from the parts bag. Use
3/8” washers with three of the legs; the door/damper
handle holder installs in place of a washer on the right
front leg. Position the holder so the hole to accept the
handle nub faces out from the right side of the stove.
Tighten the bolts firmly.
Assembly
ST513
Remove leg bolts
11/00
Slotted
Screws
ST513
Fig. 13 Remove the slotted screws from the stove bottom.
Install the Bottom Heat Shield
A bottom heat shield must be used unless the stove is
to be situated on a completely noncombustible hearth,
such as unpainted concrete over earth. To install the
bottom heat shield, loosen the leg bolts, and slip the
bottom heat shield C-clips onto the bolts. Attach the
bottom heat shield to the C-clips with the wing nuts, and
tighten the leg bolts. Align the shield as shown in Figure
14.
10³⁄₄"
9³⁄₄"
ST512
Attach
bottom heat
shield
11/00
ST512
Fig. 14 Attach bottom heat shield.
Storing the Handle
Use the removable handle to open or close the front
doors, or to change the position of the damper. After
using it, remove it so it won’t get hot, and store it in the
handle holder installed behind the right front leg. (Fig.
15)
ST514
Bottom heat shield
& clips
11/00
Door Handle Holder
Bottom Heat Shield
Bracket
Wing Bolt ST514
Fig. 15 Handle holder and heat shield positions.
Reversing the Flue Collar
You can reverse the flue collar by removing the two
screws that attach the collar to the back of the stove.
(Fig. 16) Be sure the gasket around the flue collar
opening is in position when you screw the collar back
on to the stove.

12
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
ST515
reverse
flue collar
11/17/00 djt
Flue Collar Screws
ST515
Fig. 16 Reversing the flue collar.
Attach the Griddle Handle
Install the handle on the griddle. Place the griddle
upside down at the edge of a flat surface and assemble
the handle as shown. (Fig. 17)
With the handle pointing 45° from its final position,
tighten the nut as far as possible with pliers. Move the
handle to its final position while still holding the nut with
the pliers. Take care not to overtighten, as tab may
snap.
ST516
Attach
griddle handle
11/17/00 djt
ST516
Fig. 17 Attaching the griddle handle.
Operation
Your Intrepid II’s Controls and
What They Do
The stove has two controls to regulate performance: a
primary air control supplies oxygen for the fire, and a
damper directs air flow within the stove to activate and
deactivate the catalytic combustor.
Additional air for catalytic combustion is regulated auto-
matically, and does not require operator control.
Symbols cast into the stove are reminders of the correct
directions for opening and closing the controls. In these
directions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ assume that you are facing
the front of the stove.
A Single Air Control Regulates the
Amount of Heat the Fire Will Produce and
How Long it Will Burn
The primary air control lever, located at the right rear
corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming air
for starting, maintaining, and reviving a fire. More air
entering the stove makes the fire burn hotter and faster,
while less air prolongs the burn at a lower heat level.
For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output
(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the left.
For a fire that will last longer with less heat, move the
lever to the right. You can set the lever anywhere in
between the left and right extremes. (Fig. 19)
The Intrepid II features an automatic thermostat to en-
sure an even heat output at any setting you select. The
thermostat senses the heating and cooling of the stove
surface and adjusts the air shutter accordingly.
ST518
Intrepid II
controls
11/20/00 djt
Air Control Lever
Griddle
Handle
Damper Handle
Door Handle
Door Handle
Holder
(Behind Leg)
Ash Pan
Andiron
ST518
Fig. 18 The Intrepid II controls.
ST517
Intrepid II
Thermostat
positions
11/17/00 djt
High Heat
Low Heat
ST517
Fig. 19 The thermostat handle may be positioned anywhere
between the two extremes for different heat levels.
Rear View

13
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
A Damper Directs Air Flow
Within the Stove
The damper handle opens and closes the damper to
direct air flow within the stove, and is next to, and to the
right of, the primary air control lever on the right side of
the stove. (Fig. 20)
When the handle points to the floor, the damper is
open, letting smoke pass directly into the chimney. The
damper must be open when starting or reviving a fire,
and whenever the griddle or doors are opened.
When the handle points to the front, the damper is
closed. Smoke from the fire travels through the catalytic
combustion system where it can burn further for greater
efficiency, before passing up the chimney.
The damper has no intermediate positions. Figure 28
shows the handle’s open and closed positions.
When closing the damper, push firmly and snap it
into the locked position to ensure that the stove
remains in the catalytic mode.
Andirons
Your stove has andirons to keep logs away from the
glass panels. The andirons are important to maintain
clear fireviewing and should be removed only while
reloading through the front doors.
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing the andirons,
and place them on a noncombustible surface until you
replace them in the stove. Most stove owners will prefer
the convenience of top loading through the griddle, and
will leave the andirons in place permanently.
ST519
Intrepid II
damper
11/20/00 djt
Open
(Updraft Mode)
Closed
(Catalytic Mode) ST519
Fig. 20 The damper is either open or closed. There are no
intermediate positions.
Side View
ST520
Intrepid
andirons
11/20/00 djt
ST520
Fig. 21 Remove the andirons for front loading.
Two Ways to Add Fuel
The Intrepid II’s griddle lifts for convenient top-loading
of logs, and is the easiest way of regularly adding fuel.
However, the front doors open as well for adding an oc-
casional log to a fire. (Fig. 22)
You can open (or even remove) the front doors and
place the optional Intrepid II spark screen in the front
opening for open-fire viewing.
INTREPID II
ST521
Intrepid
loading
11/00
ST521
Fig. 22 Top loading is the best way to add fuel during regular
use. Front loading is useful for kindling a fire.
Glass Door Panels
The glass panels in the doors have a heat-reflective
coating on the outside surface. Heat reflected back to
the inside of the glass helps keep the inner surface at
a higher temperature than the outside. In combination
with pre-heated primary combustion air ‘washing’ over
the inside of the glass, this helps provide clear fire-
viewing at most operating levels.

14
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
WARNING: For safety and greatest efficiency, oper-
ate your stove only with all doors/griddles fully
closed. The test standard for your stove when it is
operated in this mode is UL 1482.
Your stove may be used as a fireplace with the front
doors open or removed only when the spark screen
is placed correctly in the opening to protect against
the possibility of sparks and embers leaving your
stove. The test standard for your stove when it is
operated in this mode is UL 737.
Use only the Intrepid II spark screen, part #0136,
with your Intrepid II.
Intrepid II spark screens are available from your
Vermont Castings’ Authorized Dealer.
To open the front doors, insert the handle into the door
latch stub and turn it to the left and up. To close them,
always close the left door first. Turn the handle in the
right door to the left and up (to the open position) and
close the door. Push on the door as you turn the handle
to the right and down. The doors will draw in slightly,
and the handle should offer some resistance as you
turn it to the closed position. (Fig. 23)
Avoid striking the glass or slamming the doors to re-
duce the risk of breaking the glass.
When you’re not using the door handle, store it in the
holder behind the right front leg of the stove.
ST522
Intrepid
close doors
11/00
Open
Position
Closed
Position
ST522
Fig. 23 To open the front doors, turn handle clockwise.
Burn Only High-Quality Wood
The Intrepid II is designed to burn natural wood only; do
not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.
You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that
has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood
should be 410 mm (16”) in length.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-
dried outside under cover for at least one year.
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, com-
monly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,
white pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood. These
too should be properly dried.
Store firewood under cover to keep it dry. Dry, well-sea-
soned wood is best for heating and fire-viewing. How-
ever, avoid wood dried more than two years. This wood
burns very quickly, reducing burn time.
Even for short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance
from the heater and keep it out of the areas around the
heater used for refueling and ash removal.
A Surface Thermometer is a Valuable
Guide to Operation
An optional surface thermometer tells you when to
adjust the air control, when to refuel, and helps to tell
when your catalyst is operating properly.
For example, when the thermometer registers at least
230° C (450° F) after start-up you know the stove is
hot enough to begin catalytic combustion and it may be
time to close the damper.
Place the thermometer in the center of the griddle, as in
Figure 24, and use the following temperature ranges as
a guide to operation:
When thermometer readings drop below 175° C
(350° F) it’s time to adjust the air control for a higher
burn rate or to reload the stove.
• A temperature reading over 400° C (750° F) is a sign
to cut back on the air supply to slow the burn rate.
• Readings in the 150-200° C (300-400° F) range
indicate low to medium heat output.
• Readings of 260-340° C (500-650° F) indicate high
heat output. Operating your Intrepid II continuously
at griddle temperatures of 400° C (750°F) or higher
may damage inner parts or the enamel finish.
ST523
Intrepid
temp readings
11/00
ST523
Fig. 24 Take temperature readings with a thermometer lo-
cated in the middle of the griddle.

15
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Use the Air Control Settings
that Work Best for You
No single air control setting will fit every situation. Set-
tings will differ depending on the quality of the fuel, the
amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the fire
to burn.
The control setting also depends on your particular
installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the Intrepid II, and could even damage the combustor.
On the other hand, too little draft can cause backpuffing
into the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney or
combustor.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-
lable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inad-
equate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the
stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty
glass.
In some newer homes that are well-insulated and
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air
in the house. In such instances, an open window near
the stove on the windward side of the house will provide
the fresh air needed.
Another option for getting more combustion air to the
stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to the stove.
In fact, in some areas provisions for outside combustion
air are required in all new construction.
Your Intrepid II will accept a duct carrying outside air for
combustion.
When first using the stove, keep track of the air control
settings. You will quickly find that a specific setting will
give you a fixed amount of heat. It may take some time
to determine the amount of heat and the length of burn
you should expect from various settings. Please read
the Draft Management section beginning on Page 18
for more information on how installation features affect
draft.
Most installations do not require a large amount of com-
bustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing
of your heater by altering the air control adjustment
range outlined in these directions.
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to help determine the best settings for your installation.
Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the
lever may be moved from right to left.
Intrepid II Control Settings
Burn Rate Primary Air Control
Low From far right to 1/3 the
distance to left
Medium From 1/3 to 2/3
the distance to left
High From 2/3 the distance
to left to far left
Before you start using the stove, please read the Draft
Management section starting on Page 18 to see how
the features of your installation will affect the stove’s
performance. You and the stove are parts of a system,
and other parts of the system have a strong effect on
operation; you may need to vary your firing technique to
get the performance you want.
How to Build a Wood Fire
and Keep it Going
An Intrepid II leaves the factory with the combustor
installed.
In the United States, it is against the law to operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic combustor
is deactivated or removed.
High-Efficiency Wood Burning
with Catalytic Combustion
The catalytic combustion system in your Intrepid II
produces the best conditions for secondary combustion.
When the stove damper is closed, smoke goes through
the catalytic element, burning at temperatures of
260-315° C (500-600° F), half the temperature normally
needed for unaided secondary combustion.
The catalytic element is a ceramic “honeycomb” coated
with a noble metal, usually platinum. The element is in
the secondary combustion chamber, made of a spe-
cial high-temperature insulating refractory material.
The chamber provides the correct environment neces-
sary for secondary combustion of the fuel (smoke).
Closing the damper may also reduce draft. Closing the
damper too soon may put out the fire or deactivate the
combustor. Close the damper only when the fire is well
established. When starting a fire, wait until there is an
ember bed of at least 76 - 102 mm (3-4”) before closing
the damper.
Never kindle a fire with colored paper or paper that
has colored ink or a glossy surface, and never burn
treated wood, garbage, solvents, or trash. All of these
may poison the catalyst and prevent it from operating
properly. Never burn cardboard or loose paper except
for kindling purposes. Never burn coal; doing so can
produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can

16
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
coat the combustor and cause smoke to spill into the
room. Coal smoke also can poison the catalyst so that it
won’t operate properly.
In general, the fire must be sufficiently well-established
to ensure catalytic activity is initiated. When first starting
a fire, maintain a medium- to high- firing rate for at least
twenty minutes. This ensures the stove, catalyst, and
fuel are all stabilized at the proper operating tempera-
tures. This may be long enough to warm the chimney
well enough to support a good draft; some installations
may need more time. Please read the Draft Manage-
ment information starting on Page 23 to see if your
installation has features that may require more time to
warm up.
Even though it is possible for the fire to get quite hot
within a few minutes, the combustor may stop working
or the fire may go out if the fire is allowed to die down
immediately as a result of closing the damper. Once the
combustor starts working, heat generated by burning
the smoke will keep it working.
To determine whether the combustor is operating, ob-
serve the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when
the damper is activated and when it is not. This proce-
dure is described on Page 27.
Conditioning Your Stove
Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with
a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock
of rapid and extreme temperature change.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in
temperature. When you first begin using your Intrepid II,
minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust
gradually during three or four initial break-in fires follow-
ing Steps 1-3 below.
Starting and Maintaining a Wood Fire
Burn solid wood fuel only in the Intrepid II, and burn it
directly on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not
burn coal or other fuels.
The damper must be open when starting a fire or
when refueling.
1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air
control fully.
2. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper in the
stove. Do NOT use glossy advertisements or colored
paper, as they can poison the catalyst. Place on the
paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a
finger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 25 - 50
mm (1-2”) in diameter. (Fig. 25)
ST263
starting a fire
12/99
ST263
Fig. 25 Start the fire with newspaper and dry kindling.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START
THE FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMA-
BLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, OR
ENGINE OIL. Also, never use gasoline-type lantern
fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar
liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire. Keep all such
liquids well away from the Intrepid II while it is in
use.
3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradu-
ally build up the fire by adding a few 76 - 127 mm
(3-5”) diameter splits. If this is one of the first few
“break-in” fires, let the fire burn brightly, and
then let it die out.
During the break-in fires, don’t let the stove get hot-
ter than 260° C (500° F) as measured on an optional
stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control lever
as necessary to control the fire. Some odor from the
stove’s hot metal, the paint, and the cement is normal
for the first few fires.
NOTE: Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to start
a fire. To correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces
of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and
toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the
doors. This should heat the chimney enough to initiate
a draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the
main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and
repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial
attempt is unsuccessful.
4. If your Intrepid II has been broken-in previously
using Steps 1-3, continue to build the fire gradually.
Add larger wood with a diameter of 76 - 102 mm (3-
4”). (Fig. 26)

17
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Continue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-
burning fire until there is a glowing ember bed at
least 76 mm (3”) deep. A good ember bed is neces-
sary for proper functioning of the catalytic system
and may take an hour or more to establish.
5. Close the damper when the griddle temperature
reaches 230° C (450° F).
6. Adjust the air control for your desired heat output.
Refuel While the Embers are Still Hot
Reload the Intrepid II while it is still hot and there are
plenty of glowing embers to re-kindle the fire. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to
help the stove rebuild its operating temperature quickly.
Wear stove gloves, and follow this procedure when you
reload your stove:
1. Open the thermostat lever.
2. Open the damper.
3. Check the ash level in the ash pan; empty, if neces-
sary, and replace the pan.
4. Open the griddle.
5. Position the charcoal in the middle of the firebox
(Fig. 41)then load wood — smaller, split pieces first.
Increase the amount of fuel you load into the stove
as you become familiar with your stove and the
heating needs of your home.
NOTE: If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick
and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is possible to add
fresh fuel (smaller pieces first), close the door and
damper, and reset the primary air thermostat for the
desired heat output.
Do not break the charcoal into very small pieces or
pound or compress the charcoal bed.
It is important that air can circulate under the wood for
the fire to be quickly revived.
WARNING: Operate your Intrepid II only with the
doors either fully open or fully closed.
ST264
good fire
12/99
ST264
Fig. 26 Add larger pieces of wood as the fire begins to burn
well.
ST264a
add wood fire
11/00
ST264a
Fig. 27 Add full size logs when the ember bed is 3” (75mm)
deep.
CAUTION: The Intrepid II will be hot while in opera-
tion. Keep children, clothing and furniture away.
Contact may cause skin burns.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If any part
of the Intrepid II glows, you are overfiring.
Ash Disposal
Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.
Check the level at least once a day, and before each
re-fueling. If the ash is close to the top edge of the pan,
empty it according to this procedure:
1. Open the damper.
2. Open the front doors fully.
3. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the stove
by its handle.
4. Remove the ash pan and properly dispose of the
ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level during dispos-
al.
5. Return the ash pan to the stove.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Intrepid II; if you burn more wood at
higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.
Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a metal
container with a tight-fitting lid. Put the closed container
of ash on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final
disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or
otherwise locally dispersed, keep it in the closed con-
tainer until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can
use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.
CAUTION: Never use your household or shop vacuum
cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove
and dispose of the ash properly.

18
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,
the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The bigger the temperature difference, the
stronger the draft. As the smoke rises from the chimney
it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls air into the stove
for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with the stove’s air inlet
fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk fire, supported
only by air entering the stove through the normal inlet,
indicates a good draft. The stove’s air inlet is passive;
it regulates how much air can enter the stove, but it
doesn’t move air into it.
Depending on the features of your installation - steel or
masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched
to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may
warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and
operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts
the amount of air getting into the firebox, the chimney
must keep the smoke warm all the way to the outdoors.
Some chimneys do this better than others. Here’s a list
of features and their effects.
Masonry Chimney
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
It’s often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain an adequate draft.
Steel Chimney
Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of in-
sulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps the
smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than mason-
ry, so the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than a
masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good looks of
masonry, but it performs much better.
Indoor/Outdoor location
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s
best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house
as insulation for the flue and allows a little heat release
into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat to
the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to get
it warm and keep it warm.
Flue sizing
The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove
should match the size of the stove’s flue outlet. When a
chimney serves an airtight, more is not better; in fact, it
can be a disadvantage. Hot gases cool off through ex-
pansion; if we vent a stove with a 152 mm (6”) flue collar
{181 sq. cm (28 sq. in.) area} into a 254 x 254 mm (10”
x 10”) flue, the gases expand to over three times their
original size. This cools the gases, which weakens draft
strength. If an oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the outdoor air
and the flue usually stays cool.
It’s common for a masonry flue, especially one built for
a fireplace, to be oversized for an airtight stove. It can
take quite a while to warm up such a flue, and the re-
sults can be disappointing. The best solution to an over-
sized flue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same
diameter as the stove or insert’s flue outlet; the liner
keeps the smoke at its original volume, and the result is
a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- the liner keeps the smoke restricted to its original size,
but the smoke still must warm up the air around the
liner. This makes the warm-up process take longer.
Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every turn the smoke must take in its travel from the
stove to the chimney top will slow it down. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove,
to a completely straight chimney. If you’re starting
from scratch, use this layout if possible. If the stove-
pipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the thimble
about midway between the stove top and the ceiling.
This achieves several goals: it lets the smoke speed up
before it must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for
heat transfer, and it gives you long-term flexibility for
installing a taller stove without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for long
runs.
Single Venting
Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own flue. If an airtight
stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open fire-
place, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft
to pull air in through those channels than it is to pull air
through the airtight, and performance suffers. Imagine
a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the ef-
fect here. In some cases the other appliance can even
cause a negative draft through the airtight, and result in
a dangerous draft reversal.
Draft Management

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Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
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Creosote
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an
organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense in
the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than
130° C (290° F). Condensed creosote is volatile, and
can generate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the
features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote
condensation - so use whatever combination of installa-
tion features and operational steps that will encourage
good draft and minimize creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is
one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense
to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for
safety reasons as well as performance. Consult a quali-
fied installer and check local and national codes for
recommended chimney size.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well
with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-
dried 12-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as
hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of
moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential
is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood.
This reduces the amount that reaches your home and
can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois-
ture meters available for firewood; you can also judge
your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it
green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can
lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at
the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.
The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier
it is.
Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But
with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood
can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote
in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly
and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.
If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane
torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is
seriously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a
ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures
than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst
can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than
you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or
overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to
slow the fire down.
Back-puffing
Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile
gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of
the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re
dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove
back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the
smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into
the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. Run your
stove with enough primary air so that you always see
lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is
inefficient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the
chimney.
Draft Testing
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the
stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow
stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of
the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Re-
sults are not always instant; you may need to wait a few
minutes for a change in the air control setting to have
an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft
isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and
you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the
fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you
keep track of your burning habits and relate them to
their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded
with good performance and a safe system.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;
a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.
Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to
prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competi-
tion between the stove and other equipment that sends
indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment
like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney
draws well with all other equipment turned off (or
sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves),
then you simply need to be careful with timing the use
of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby
window or door to enable the chimney to draw well,
that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake
to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont
Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove
to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
In many cases, local or national codes require the
installation of permanently open air vents, particularly
with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these
codes to determine specific requirements for your
installation.
Conclusion
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the
stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user
can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve
good results. If you keep track of your burning habits
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation,
you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe
system.

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Maintenance
Let the fire in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any maintenance
procedure.
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Intrepid looking new.
The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,
clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,
touch up the stove with high temperature stove paint.
Apply the paint sparingly, and keep in mind that two
light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.
Care of Porcelain Enamel Finish
Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove
spills or stains. For difficult jobs that require a cleaning
agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish
recommended for use on enamel surfaces.
Cleaning the Glass
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
during hot fires. However, the ash residue that accumu-
lates on the glass surface should be removed regularly
to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the
glass:
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made
especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive
cleaners.
• Rinse the glass thoroughly.
• Dry the glass completely.
Glass Replacement
Replace glass only with Part no. 140-1156 right side
and 140-1157 left side glass panels. The glass panel
rests on a cushion provided by a rope gasket part no
1203556, and is held in place by clips. (Fig. 28) The
glass is IR coated on one side which is marked “THIS
SIDE OUT”.
1. Remove the door from the stove and place it on a
sturdy, level work surface. Use a towel to protect
the porcelain enamel finish.
2. Remove the retainer clips. (Two phillips head
screws on each clip.)
3. Inspect the gasket. If the window gasket is in good
condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace
it, use only Part No. 1203556. Be sure the channel
around the window opening is clean, and free of
dust.
4. Install the glass. Lay the glass on the inner gasket
with the coated side down (toward the outside of
the door). Tighten the screws snugly, but loose
enough to allow for a little movement of the glass
when the stove is in operation. Overtightening can
crack the glass immediately or cause it to crack if it
is unable to expand when hot.
KT160
Intrepid
glass replacement
addendum
11/00
Rope
Gasket KT160
Fig. 28 Door glass installation.
Check the Operation of the
Primary Air Shutter
The primary air shutter is visible from the back of the
stove. The shutter must open and close freely when
you move the thermostat lever. If it does not, check for
any obstruction, or for a bound or stretched chain need-
ing adjustment. (Fig. 29)
On a cold stove the shutter should be open no more
than 1/8” (3mm) when the primary air control lever is
pushed completely to the left (closed), as seen from the
back of the stove. When the lever is pushed completely
to the right (open), the shutter should be open to an
angle of approximately 70° from the stove back.
The ball chain should measure 216 mm (8¹⁄₂”) from
connection to the thermostat coil to connection on the
primary air flap.
If setting is incorrect, the thermostat coil may be bent or
broken. Call your Vermont Castings Dealer for assis-
tance.