Westerbeke L-25 User manual

TECHNICAL MANUAL
WESTERBEKE L25
Marine Diesel Engine
PUBLICATION 19419
EDITION 3
MAY 1978
~r-.v- 'WESTERBEKE
J WESTERBEKECORPORATION
•
MYLES STANDISH INDUSTRIAL PARK
150 JOHN HANCOCK ROAD, TAUNTON, MA 02780-7319

TECHNICAL MANUAL
WESTERBEKE L25
Marine Diesel Engine
PUBLICATION 19419
EDITION 3
MAY 1978
~r-.v- 'WESTERBEKE
J WESTERBEKECORPORATION
•
MYLES STANDISH INDUSTRIAL PARK
150 JOHN HANCOCK ROAD, TAUNTON, MA 02780-7319

SECTION INDEX
GENERAL.
Introduction Operation
Installation Maintenance
ENGINE OVERHAUL
OTHER OVERHAUL
Marine Engine Electrical System
Cooling System (External)
Transmissions
GENERATOR SETS
HYDRAULIC CRANKING SYSTEM
SERVICE BULLETINS
3

4
YOUR NOTES

INTRODUCTION
5
IMPORTANT
THIS MANUAL IS A DETAILED GUIDE TO THE INSTALLATION, START-UP, OPERATION
AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WESTERBEKE MARINE DIESEL ENGINE. THE INFORMA-
TION IT CONTAINS IS VITAL TO THE ENGINE'S DEPENDABLE, LONG TERM OPERA-
TION.
READ IT
KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE
KEEP IT HANDY FOR REFERENCE AT ALL TIMES
FAILURE TO DO SO WILL INVITE SERIOUS RISK, NOT ONLY TO YOUR INVESTMENT,
BUT YOUR SAFETY AS WELL.
UNDERSTANDING THE DIESEL ••••
The diesel engine closely resembles the
gasoline engine inasmuch as the mechanism
is essentially the same. Its cylinders
are arranged above its closed crankcase;
its crankshaft is of the same general type
as that of a gasoline engine; it has the
same sort of valves, camshaft, pistons,
connecting rods, lubricating system and
reverse and reduction gear.
Therefore, it.follows to a great extent
that a diesel engine requires the same
preventative maintenance as that which any
intelligent operator would give to a gas-
oline engine. The most important factors
are proper maintenance of the fuel, lub-
ricating and cooling systems. Replacement
of fuel and lubricating filter elements at
the time periods specified is a must, and
frequent checking for contamination (i.e.
water, sediment etc.) in the fuel system
is also essential. Another important
factor is the use of the same brand of
"high detergent" diesel lubricating oil
designed specifically for diesel engines.
The diesel engine does differ from the
gasoline engine, however, in the method of
handling and firing its fuel. The carbu-
retor and ignition systems are done away
with and in their place is a single com-
ponent - the Fuel Injection Pump - which
performs the function of both.
Unremitting care and attention at the
factory have resulted in a Westerbeke
engine capable of many thousands of hours
of dependable service. What the manufact-
urer cannot control, however, is the
treatment it receives in service. This
part rests with you!
ORDERING PARTS
Whenever replacement parts are needed,
always include the complete part descrip-
tion and part number (see separate Parts
List furnished, if not part of this pub-
lication). Be sure to include the
engine's model and serial number. Also
be sure to insist upon Westerbeke factory
packaged parts, because "will fit" parts
are frequently not made to the same
specifications as original equipment.
GENERATOR SETS
Westerbeke diesels are used for both
the propulsion of boats and for generating
electrical power. For generator set app-
lications, all details of this Manual
apply, except in regard to certain por-
tions of the Installation, Operation and
Maintenance sections. Additional infor-
mation is provided in the section titled
Generator Sets, Section T.

6

INSTALLATION
7
FOREWORD
Since the boats in which these engines are used are many and varied,
details of engine installation are equally so. It is not the purpose of
this section to advise boatyards and engine installers on the generally
well understood and well developed procedures for installation of en-
gines. However, the following outline of general procedure is included
because it is valuable in explaining the functions of each component,
the reasons why, the precautions to be watched and the relationship of
the installation to the operation of the engine. There are details of
the installation which should have a periodic check and of which the
operator should have a thorough understanding to insure good operating
conditions for the engine and correct procedure for its servicing.
INSPECTION OF EQUIPMENT
The engine is shipped from the factory
mounted securely and properly crated. Ac-
cessory equipment is shipped in a separate
small box, usually packed with the engine
crate.
Before accepting shipment from the
transportation company, the crate should
be opened and an inspection made for con-
cealed damage. If either visible or con-
cealed damage is noted, you should require
the delivering agent to sign "Received in
damaged condition". Also check contents
of the shipment against the packing list
and make sure note is made of any discrep-
ancies. This is your protection against
loss or damage. Claims for loss or damage
must
be made to the carrier, not to J. H.
Westerbeke Corporation.
RIGGING AND LIFTING
The
engine is fitted with lifting rings.
Rope or chain slings should be at-
tached to the rings and the engine lifted
by means of tackle attached to this sling.
The lifting rings have been designed to
carry the full weight of the engine,
therefore auxiliary slings are not re-
quired or desired.
CAUTION: Slings must not be so .short as
to place the engine lifting eyes in sig-
nificant sheer stress. Strain on the
engine lifting eyes must not be in excess
of 100 from the vertical. A spacer bar
must be placed between the two lifting
eyes, if supported by valve cover studs.
The general rule in moving engines is
to see that all equipment used is amply
strong and firmly fixed in place. Move the
engine a little at a time and see that it
is firmly supported. Eliminate possibil-
ity of accidents by avoiding haste. Do
not lift from the propeller coupling, or
pry against this with crowbar, as you may
distort the coupling.
In some cases it may be necessary to
lift the engine in other than the regular
horizontal position. It may be that the
engine must be lowered endwise through a
small hatchway which cannot be made larger.
If the opening is extremely restricted it
is possible to reduce, to some extent, the
outside clearances such as generator,
cooling piping, water tank, filters,
mounting lugs, etc. This accessory equip-
ment should be removed by a competent
mechanic and special care should be taken
to avoid damage to any exposed parts and
to avoid dirt entering openings. The parts
which have been removed should be returned
to position as soon as the restriction has
been passed.
In case it is necessary to hoist the
engine either front end upwards or reverse
gear .end upwards, the attachment of slings
must be done very carefully to avoid the
possibility of damage to the parts on
which the weight may bear. It is best if
special rigging work be done by someone
experienced and competent in the handling
of heavy machinery.
ENGINE BOLTS
It is recommended that bronze hanger
bolts of appropriate size be used through
the engine flexible mounts. Lag screws
are less preferred because their hold on
the wood is weakened every time they are
moved, whereas the lag bolt stays in pos-
ition and the nut on top is used to tight-
en the engine down or is removed to permit
the engine to be lifted. The bolt itself
stays in position at all times, as a stud,
and the bond between the bolt and the wood
is not weakened by its removal.

8
FOUNDATION FOR ENGINE
A good engine bed contributes much
toward the satisfactory operation of the
engine. The engine bed must be of rigid
construction and neither deflect nor twist
when subjected to the engine weight or the
position the boat may have to take under
the effects of rough seas. The bed must
keep the engine within one or two thous-
andths of an inch of this position at all
times. It has to withstand the forward
push of the propeller which is applied to
the propeller shaft, to the thrust washer
bearing in the engine and finally to the
engine bolts and engine bed.
In fiberglas hulls, we recommend that
similar wooden stringers as in wooden
hulls be formed and fitted, then glassed
to the hull securely. This allows hanger
bolts to be installed firmly in wood, thus
reducing noise and transmitted vibration.
The temptation to install the engine on
a
pair of fiberglas "angle irons" should
be resisted. Such construction will allow
engine vibrations to pass through to the
hull. Flexible mounts require a firm
foundation against which to react if they
are to do their job. When possible, follow
bed design "A" and avoid bed design "B".
PROPELLER COUPLING
Each Westerbeke Diesel engine is regu-
larly fitted with a suitable coupling for
connecting the propeller shaft to the
engine.
The coupling must not only transmit the
power of the engine to turn the shaft, but
must also transmit the thrust either ahead
or astern from the shaft to the thrust
bearing which is built into the reduction
gear housing of the engine. This coupling
is very carefully machined for accurate
fit.
For all engine models, a propeller half-
coupling, bored to shaft size for the
specific order, is supplied. The coupling
either has a keyway with set screws or is
ot the clamping type.
The forward end of the propeller shaft
has a long straight keyway. Any burrs
should be removed from the shaft end. The
coupling should be a light drive fit on
the shaft and the shaft should not have to
be scraped down or filed in order to get a
fit. It is important that the key be
properly fitted both to the shaft and the
coupling. The key should fit the side of
the keyway very closely, but should not
touch the top of the keyway in the hub of
the coupling.
If it seems difficult to drive the
coupling over the shaft, the coupling can
be expanded by heating in a pail of boil-
ing water. The face of the propeller
coupling must be exactly perpendicular to
the centerline or axis of the propeller
shaft.
PROPELLER
The type and size of propeller varies
with the gear ratio and must be selected
to fit the application based upon boat
tests. To utilize the full power of the
engine, and to achieve ideal loading con-
ditions, it is desirable to use a propel-
ler which will permit the engine to reach
its full rated speed at full throttle
under normal load.
ALIGNMENT OF ENGINE
The engine must be properly and exactly
aligned with the propeller shaft. No
matter what material is used to build a
boat it will be found to be flexible to
some extent and the boat hull will change
its shape to a greater extent than is
usually realized when it is launched and
operated in the water. It is therefore
very important to check the engine align-

ment at frequent intervals and to correct
any errors when they may appear.
Misalignment between the engine and the
propeller shaft is the cause of troubles
which are blamed often on other causes.
It will create excessive bearing wear,
rapid shaft wear and will, in many cases,
reduce the life of the hull by loosening.
the hull fastenings. A bent propeller
shaft will have exactly the same effect
and it is therefore necessary that the
propeller shaft itself be perfectly
straight.
One particularly annoying result of mis-
alignment may be leakage of transmission
oil through the rear oil seal. Check to
make sure that alignment is within the
limits prescribed.
The engine should be moved around on
the bed and supported on the screw-jacks
or shims until the two halves of the coup-
lings can be brought together without using
force and so that the flanges meet evenly
all around. It is best not to drill the
foundation for the foundation bolts until
the approximate alignment has been accu-
rately determined.
Never attempt a final alignment with
the boat on land. The boat should be in
the water and have had an opportunity to
assume its final water form. It is best
to do the alignment with the fuel and
water tank about half full and all the
usual equipment on board and after the
main mast has been stepped and final rig-
ging has been accomplished.
Take .plenty of time in making this
alignment and do not be satisfied with
anything less than perfect results.
The alignment is correct when the shaft
can be slipped backwards and forward into
the counterbore very easily and when a
feeler gauge indicates that the flanges
come exactly together at all points. The
two
halves of the propeller coupling
should be parallel within 0.002 inches (A).
i
\
.. ~.
9
In making the final check for alignment,
the engine half coupling should be held in
one position and the alignment with the
propeller coupling tested with the propeller
coupling in each of four positions, rotated
900 between each position. This test will
also check whether the propeller half coup-
ling is in exact alignment on its shaft ..
Then, keeping the propeller coupling in one
position the alignment should be checked
rotating the engine half coupling to full
position each 900 from the next one.
The engine alignment should be rechecked
after the boat has been in service for one
to three weeks and, if necessary, the
alignment remade. It will usually be
found that the engine is no longer in
alignment. This in not because the work
was
improperly done at first, but because
the boat has taken some time to take its
final shape and the engine bed and engine
stringers have probably absorbed some
moisture. It may even be necessary to re-
align at a further period.
The coupling should always be opened up
and
the bolts removed whenever the boat is
hauled out or moved from the land to the
water, and during storage in a cradle.
The flexibility of the boat often puts a
very severe strain on the shaft or the
coupling or both when it is being moved.
In some cases the shaft has actually been
bent by these strains. This does not apply
to small boats that are hauled out of the
water when not in use, unless they are
dry for a considerable time.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Exhaust line installations vary consid-
erably and each must be designed for the
particular job. The general requirements
are to provide an outlet line with a mini-
mum of restrictions and arranged so that
sea water, rain water, or condensation
cannot get back into the engine. There
should be a considerable fall in the line
between the exhaust manifold flange and
the discharge end. This slope in the pipe
makes it difficult for water to be driven
in very far by a wave; and a steep drop
followed by a long slope is better than a
straight gradual slope. Avoid any depres-
sion or trough to the line which would
fill with water and obstruct the flow of
exhaust gas. Also avoid any sharp bends.
Brass or copper is not acceptable for
wet exhaust systems, as the combination of
salt water and diesel exhaust gas will

10
cause rapid deterioration. Galvanized
iron fittings and galvanized iron pipe is
recommended for the exhaust line. The ex-
haust line must be at least as large as
the engine exhaust manifold flange and be
increased in size if there is an especial-
ly long run and/or many elbows. It should
be increased by 1/2" in LD. for every 10
feet beyond the first 10 feet.
EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH WATER JACKETED
STANDPIPE
To insure vibration doesn't transmit to
hull, use a flexible section preferably of
stainless steel, no less than 12" overall,
threaded at each end and installed as
close to the engine as possible. This
flexible section should be installed with
no bends and covered with insulating mater-
ial. The exhaust pipe should be properly
supported by brackets to eliminate any
strain on the manifold flange studs. Many
installations use flexible rubber exhaust
hose for the water cooled section of the
exhaust line because of the ease of instal-
lation and flexibility. Provide adequate
1-)/10" 0.0,
,-''''. o.o~ ___ !--...
11·1/2"
OIA.
MUF'FLEA., PH 1)1710
WATER LIFT EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH
"HYDRO-HUSH" MUFFLER
support for the rubber hose to prevent
sagging, bending, and formation of water
pockets.
Always arrange that water discharge
into the rubber hose section is behind a
riser or sufficiently below the exhaust
flange so that water cannot possibly flow
back into the engine. Also make sure that
entering sea water cannot spray directly
against the inside of the exhaust piping.
Otherwise excessive erosion will occur.
MEASURING EXHAUST GAS BACK PRESSURE
Back pressure must be measured on a
straight section of the exhaust line and
as near as possible to the engine exhaust
manifold. The engine should be run at
maximum load during the measurement period.
Set-up should be as shown below.
1. For normally asperated engines:
Pressure Test Mercury Test Water Column
1-1/2" Max PSI 3" Mercury = 39"
2. For turbo-charged engines:
Pressure Test Mercury Test
0.75 Max PSI 1-1/2" Mercury
Checking The Back Pressure
1. Exhaust pipe flange
2. Exhaust line
Water Column
= 19-1/2"
3. Transparent plastic hose, partly filled
with water. Measurement "A" may not
exceed 39" for normally asperated
engines and 19.5" for turbo-charged
engines.
WATER CONNECTIONS
Seacocks and strainers should be of the
full flow type at least one size greater
than the inlet thread of the sea water
pump. The strainer should be of the type
which may be withdrawn for cleaning while
the vessel is at sea.
Water lines can be copper tubing or
wire-wound, reinforced rubber hose. In

any case, use a section of flexible hose
that will not collapse under suction, be-
tween the hull inlet and engine and between
the outlet and the exhaust system. This
takes up vibration and permits the engine
to be moved slightly when it's being re-
aligned. Do not use street elbows in
suction piping. All pipe.and fittings
should be of bronze. Use sealing compound
at all connections to prevent air leaks.
The neoprene impeller in the sea (raw)
water pump should never be run dry.
FUEL TANK AND FILTERS
Fuel tanks may be of fiberglass, monel,
aluminum, plain steel or terne plate. If
made of fiberglass, be certain that the
interior is gel coated to prevent fibers
from contaminating the fuel system.
Copper or galvanized fuel tanks should not
be used. It is not necessary to mount the
tank above the engine level as the fuel lift
pump provided will raise the fuel from the
tank. The amount of lift should be kept
minimum (6 feet being maximum). If a tank
is already installed above engine level it
can be utilized in this position. Great
care should be taken to ensure that the fuel
system is correctly installed so that air-
locks are eliminated and precautions taken
against dirt and water entering the fuel.
A primary fuel filter of the water col-
lecting type should be installed between
the fuel tank and the fuel lift pump. A
recommended
type is available from the
list of accessories. The secondary fuel
filter is fitted on the engine between the
fuel lift pump and the injection pump and
has a replaceable element.
As the fuel lift pump has a capacity in
excess of that required by the injection
pump, the overflow is piped to the fuel
tank and should be connected to the top of
the tank or as near the top as possible.
To insure satisfactory operation, a
diesel engine must have a dependable sup-
ply of clean diesel fuel. For this reason,.
cleanliness and care are especially im-
portant at the time when the fuel tank is
installed, because dirt left anywhere in
the fuel lines or tank will certainly
cause fouling of the injector nozzles when
the engine is started for the first time.
FUEL PIPING
We recommended copper tubing together
with suitable fittings, both for the supply
line and the return line. Run the tubing
in the longest pieces obtainable to avoid
11
the use of unnecessary fittings and con-
nectors. The shut off valve in the line
between the fuel tank and engine should be
of the fuel oil type, and it is important
that all joints be free of pressure leaks.
Keep fuel lines as far as possible from
exhaust pipe for minimum temperature, to
eliminate "vapor locks".
The fuel piping leading from the tank
to the engine compartment should always be
securely anchored to prevent chafing.
Usually the copper tubing is secured by
means of copper straps.
The final connection to the engine
should be through flexible rubber hoses.
ELECTRIC PANEL
The Westerbeke all-electric panel util-
izes an electronic tachometer with a
built-in hour meter. Tachometer cables
are no longer required, except for the
Skipper mechanical panel. Mounted on the
panel are an ammeter, water temperature
gauge and oil pressure gage. Each instru-
ment is lighted. The all-electric panel
is isolated from ground and may be mounted
where visible. It is normally pre-wired.
WESTERBEKE ALL-ELECTRIC PANEL
SKIPPER MECHANICAL TACH PANEL
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Most Westerbeke engines are supplied
pre-wired and with plug-in connectors.
Never make or break connections while the
engine is running. Carefully follow all
instructions on the wiring diagram sup-

12
plied, especially those relating to fuse/
cicuit breaker requirements.
Starter batteries should be located as
close to the engine as possible to avoid
voltage drop through long leads. It is
bad practice to use the starter batteries
for other services unless they require low
amperage
or are intermittent'. In cases
where there are substantial loads (from
lights, refrigerators, radios, depth
sounders, etc.) it is essential to have a
complete, separate system and to provide
charging current for this by means of a
second alternator or "alternator output
splitter" .
Starter batteries must be of a type
which permits a high rate of discharge
(Diesel starting).
Carefully follow the recommended wire
sizes shown in the wiring diagrams. Plan
installation so the battery is close to
engine and use the following cable sizes:
#1 -
for distances up to 8 feet
111/0 -
for distances up to
10 feet
112/0 -
for
distances
up
to
13
feet
1;3/0 -
for
distances up to 16 feet
MECHANICAL CONTROLS
The recommended practice is to have the
stop-run lever loaded to the run position
and controlled by a sheathed cable to a
push-pull knob at the pilot station. The
throttle lever should be connected to a
Morse
type lever at the pilot station by
a sheathed cable.
The transmission control lever m,ay be
connected to the pilot station by a flex-
ible, sheathed cable and controlled by a
Morse
type lever. The single-lever type
gives clutch and throttle control with
full throttle range in neutral position.
The two-lever type provides clutch control
with one lever and throttle control with
the other.
Any bends in the control cables should
be gradual. End sections at engine and
transmission must be securely mounted.
After linkages are completed, check the
installation for full travel, making sure
that, when the transmission control lever
at the pilot station is in forward,
neutral and reverse, the control lever on
the transmission is on the respective
detent. Check the throttle control lever
and the stop-run lever on the fuel injec-
tion pump for full travel.
f

13
OPERATION
PREPARATION FOR FIRST START
The engine is shipped "dry" •.• with lub-
ricating oil drained from the crankcase
and transmission. Therefore, be sure to
follow these recommended procedures care-
fully before starting the engine for the
first time.
1. Remove oil filler cap and fill oil sump
with heavy duty, diesel lubricating oil
to the highest mark on the dipstick.
See table under Maintenance for an ap-
proved lubricating oil. Do not over-
fill. Select an approved grade from
the listing and continue to use it.
2. If the Reverse Gear has a manual clutch,
fill to the highest mark on the dip-
stick with S.A.E. 30 lubricating oil.
You may use the same oil as in the en-
gine.
If Reverse Gear is hydraulic, fill to
the highest mark on the dipstick with
type A Hydraulic fluid. Do not over-
fill.
3. Fill fresh water cooling system only
after opening all pet-cocks and plugs
until all entrapped air is expelled.
On fresh water cooled engines, fill the
fresh water cooling system with fresh
clean water and/or anti-freeze solution
(see Cold Weather precautions in Main-
tenance Section).
Use a 50-50 anti-freeze solution if cold
weather is··to be experienced.
Fill surge tank to within one inch of
the top .. Check this level after engine
has run for a few minutes. If trapped
air is released, the water level may
have dropped. If so, refill tank to
within one inch of top and replace
filler cap.
4. Ensure battery water level is at least
3/8" above the battery plates and bat-
tery is fully charged so that it is
capable of the extra effort that may be
required on the first start.
5. Fill fuel tank with clean Diesel fuel
oil; No. 2 diesel fuel oil is recom-
mended. The use of No. 1 is permissible
but No. 2 is preferred because of its
higher lubricant content.
NOTE: If there is no filter in the filler
of the fuel tank, the recommended proced-
ure is to pour the fuel through a funnel
of 200 mesh wire screen.
6. Fill grease cup on water pump, if pres-
ent, with a good grade of water pump
grease.
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
The fuel injection system of a compres-
sion ignition engine depends upon very
high fuel pressure during the injection
stroke to function correctly. Relatively
tiny movements .of the pumping plungers pro-
duce this pressure and if any air is pres-
ent inside the high pressure line, then
this air acts as a cushion and prevents the
correct pressure, and therefore fuel injec-
tion, from being achieved.
In consequence it is essential that all
air is bled from the system whenever any
part of the system has been opened for
repair or serv1c1ng. Running out of fuel
is a misfortune that also necessitates
complete bleeding of the system before the
engine can be restarted.
The following instructions for fuel
system bleeding apply to typical systems
using in-line DPA pumps (shown in Figs.l
and 2).
Before priming and bleeding, insure
that the outside of the bleed screws and
surrounding area is thoroughly clean to
prevent dirt and foreign matter entering
the system.
DPA DISTRIBUTOR PUMPS The following prim-
ing and venting sequence is applicable to
both mechanically and hydraulically govern-
ed DPA pumps. The only difference is the
physical location on the pump of the gov-
ernor bleed screw "D" and this is indi-
cated in the appropriate illustration,
Fig. 1

14
Fig. 1 for mechanically governed and Fig.
2 for hydraulically governed pumps.
Fig. 2
If the fuel system is fitted with a
fuel feed pump, slacken both the filter
bleed screw "A" and the injection pump
fuel inlet union "B", and operate the hand
priming lever of the feed pump until fuel
free from air issues from both the vents.
Tighten both the vent connections. In a
gravity fed fuel system turn on the fuel
and carry out the same procedure with the
bleed screw and fuel inlet.
Slacken the vent valve fitted to one of
the two hydraulic head locking screws "c"
and the bleed screw "0" on the governor
housing. Operate the hand priming lever of
the feed pump., until fuel free from air
bubbles issues from the vent "c" and then
tighten this bleed screw.
NOTE: The space within the governor hous-
ing (vented by screw "0") is normally
filled, and its contents lubricated,
by fuel oil back-leaked from the pump
plungers, the pump rotor and the ad-
vance device if fitted. This is the
normal way in which this space becomes
filled with oil and this can naturally
take a long time at feed pump pressures.
However, if the reason that the pump is
being vented is because a pipe line or in-
jecto.r or filter element has been changed
or serviced or the system has run out of
fuel, then the governor housing will still
be filled with fuel oil and bleeding by
means
of the hand priming lever of the
feed pump will suff~ce. In this event,
close the governor bleed screw "0" as soon
as fuel free from air issues from the vent.
If, however, a new pump has been fitted
to the system, then its governor housing
will most likely be empty of fuel oil and
bleeding proceeds as follows.
Leave the governor bleed screw "0"
slackened. Next slacken any two injector
pipe line connections at the injector end.
Set the throttle to the fully open pos-
ition and turn the engine until fuel free
from air flows from the unions. Then re-
tighten the loosened injector pipe unions.
Start the engine and run it at fast
idling speed until air-free fuel exudes
from the governor bleed screw "0". Tighten
this screw and stop the engine.
Governing may be erratic during this
procedure, therefore stand by to stop the
engine should any excessive engine speed
develop.
RECOMMENDED SPARES Owners are often in
doubt as to the amount of fuel injection
equipment spares to carry. A great deal
depends upon the use of the craft and its
location. General coastal use in well-
populated areas is one thing, but voyaging
up the Amazon delta, for example, would be
quite different and would require a com-
prehensive spares kit.
Generally speaking, the average boat
owner is within relatively easy reach of
service centers and requires spares only as
insurance against breakdown and for general
servicing within the scope of the owner or
crew.
A
suitable kit for such a purpose would
consist of a replacement filter element and
a set of sealing and "0" rings for each
filter. Spare bleed screws for pumps and
filters are also required, for screws are
easily lost or damaged in a boat when bleed-
ing the system. A full set of high pressure
injection pipes should also be carried, for
a fractured or cracked pipe could occur at
any time and no patching is possible with
these pipes. The correct set of pipes can
be obtained from the engine manufacturer's
agent or service center and will be supplied
already bent to shape and cleaned intern-
ally with both ends plugged against the
entry of dirt. They will be supplied pack-
ed as a set and it is important to keep
them this way until required for use. It
is vitally important that the internal sur-
face of the pipe is kept serupulously
clean until fitted to the engine.
A spare set of fuel injectors of the
right type and correctly set for the par-
ticular engine together witb a set of the
correct seating washers will not only en-
able defective injectors to be changed
when required but will also permit engine
use while one set is away being serviced.

Do be careful to check with the engine
parts list regarding whether the engine
requires injector seating washers or not.
Additionally, spare banjo bolts and
washers for back leak pipes and low pres-
sure pipes are handy things to have when a
joint starts leaking. Remember no equip-
ment ever breaks down when it is station-
ary in port. Breakdowns and trouble occur
when the equipment is working -and that
means at sea!
Do not forget the tools. Always carry
the correct spanners for the job -hammers
and
adjustable wrenches may be all right
in some locations, but please, not around
your fuel injection equipment on your
craft.
HINTS AND TIPS It is essential to stress
the need for absolute cleanliness of the
fuel at all times. This requirement also
extends to methods of operating and servic-
ing the equipment and to precautions about
refueling.
A useful hint when changing filter ele-
ments is to obtain a polythene bag large
enough and strong enough to hold the filter
element and put this around the element and
filter head before unscrewing the center
bolt. Undo the center bolt and allow ele-
ment, oil and base all to go into the bag.
Then empty the bag into a bowl or container
large enough for the contents to be separ-
ated and the base and sealing rings recov-
ered if required.
Granulated pieces of substance familiar
to all cat owners who live in apartments
and sold for use in cat litter boxes is
ideal for soaking up diesel fuel spilled
when venting or removing pipe lines. Put
the material down before working on the
system.
Barrier creams of the oil-defying kind
are useful and make life much easier when
removing
the grime from hands. Put on the
cream before the job is tackled and then
dirt, grease and cream are removed together
when the job is completed.
In the majority of fueling installations
fuel will be supplied through a hose -
always wipe the pump nozzle with a clean
non-fluffy piece of cloth before use. None
of those grubby old swabs, please - they
will do far more harm than good. If you
spill any fuel on tank, deck or fittings,
wipe it off right away. Diesel fuel oil
does not evaporate as does gasoline, and
if left, will gather dirt and grit, will
track everywhere and keep on smelling. Be
careful where you put down the fuel tank
cap when refueling - see that it doesn't
pick up dirt or grit - this is how quite
a lot of dirt gets into the tank.
15
Avoid
dubious sources of fuel. Job
lots of unknown origin are not always the
bargain they appear to be and fuel inject-
ion equipment is expensive to renew when
damaged.
WHEN ENGINE STARTS
1. Check Oil Pressure immediately. Normal
oil pressure is approximately 50 psi at
operating speeds, 15 psi when idling.
(Extremely hot engine.)
2. Check Sea Water Flow. Look for water
at exhaust outlet. Do this without
delay.
3. Recheck Crankcase Oil. After the en-
gine has run for 3 or4 minutes, subse-
quent to an oil change or new installa-
tion, stop the engine and check the
crankcase oil level. This is import-
ant as it may be necessary to add oil
to compensate for the oil that is re-
quiredto fill the engine's internal
oil passages and oil filter. Add oil
as necessary. Check oil level each day
of operation.
4. Recheck Transmission Oil Level. (This
applies only subsequent to an oil change
or a new installation.) In such a case,
stop the engine after running for sev-
eral minutes at 800 rpm with one shift
into forward and one into reverse, then
add oil as necessary. Check oil level
each day of operation.
5. Recheck Expansion Tank Water Level, if
engine is fresh water cooled. (This
applies after cooling system has been
drained or filled for the first time.)
Stop engine after it has reached oper-
ating temperature of l7S
0F and
add
water to within one inch of top of tank.
WARNING: The system is pressurized when
overheated and the pressure must be re-
leased gradually if the filler cap is to
be removed. It is advisable to protect
the hands against escaping steam and turn
the cap slowly counter-clockwise until the
resistance of the safety stops is felt.
Leave the cap in this position until all
pressure is released. Press the cap down-
wards against the spring to clear the
safety stops, and continue turning until
it can be lifted off.
6. Warm-up Instructions. As soon as pos-
sible, get the boat underway but at re-
duced speed, until water temp. gauge
indicates l30-l500F. It necessary, en-

16
gine can be warmed up with the clutch
in neutral at 1000 rpm. Warming up
with clutch in neutral takes longer and
tends to overheat the transmission, if
partial engagement occurs, which can be
detected by propeller shaft rotation.
7. Reverse Operation. Always reduce en-
gine to idle speed when shifting gears.
However, when the transmission is en-
gaged, it will carry full engine load.
NOTE: The SAO transmission requires that,
when backing down, the shift lever must be
held in the reverse position, since it has
no positive overcenter locking mechanism.
STOPPING ENGINE
1. Position shift lever in neutral.
2. Move throttle lever to idle position.
3. Pull fuel push-pull STOP control out.
(The stop control functions by cutting
off the fuel from the fuel injection
pump.)
NOTE: Idle engine for a few minutes to
dissipate heat gradually before shutdown.
OPERATING PRECAUTIONS
1. Never run engine for extended periods
when excessive overheating occurs as
extensive internal damage can be caused.
2. DO NOT put cold water in an overheated
engine. It can crack cylinder head,
block, or manifold.
3. Keep intake silencer free from lint,
etc.
4. Do not run engine at high RPM without
clutch engaged.
5. Never Race a Cold Engine as internal
damage can occur due to inadequate oil
circulation.
6. Keep the engine and accessories clean.
7. Keep the fuel clean. Handle it with
extreme care because water and dirt in
fuel cause more trouble and service in-
8. Do not allow fuel to run low, because
fuel intake may be uncovered long
enough to allow air to enter the
system, resulting in lost time re-
quired for priming.
9. Do not be alarmed if temperature gauges
show a high reading following a sudden
stop after engine has been operating at
full load. This is caused by the
release of residual heat from the heavy
metal masses near the combustion
chamber. Prevention for this is to run
engine at idle for a short period
before stopping it. High temperature
reading after a stop does not neces-
sarily signal alarm against restarting.
If there is no functional difficulty,
temperatures will quickly return to
normal when engine is operating.

TEN MUST RULES
IMPORTANT
IMPORTANT IMPORTANT
••• for your safety and your engine's dependability.
ALWAYS -
1. Keep this Manual handy and read it whenever in doubt.
2. Use only filtered fuel oil and check lube oil level daily.
3. Check cooling water temperature frequently to make sure it is 1900
or less.
4. Close all drain cocks a~d refill with water before starting out.
5. Investigate any oil leaks immediately.
NEVER -
6. Race the engine in neutral.
7. Run the engine unless the gauge shows proper oil pressure.
8. Break the fuel pump seals.
9. Use cotton waste or fluffy cloth for cleaning or store fuel in a
galvanized container.
10. Subject the engine to prolonged overloading or continue to run it
if black smoke comes from the exhaust.
17

18
YOUR NOTES

MAINTENANCE
PERIODIC ATTENTION:
After you have taken delivery of your
engine, it is important that you make the
following checks right after the first
fifty hours of its operation:
FIFTY HOUR CHECKOUT (INITIAL)
Do the following:
1. Retorque the cylinder head bolts.
2. Retorque the rocker bracket nuts and
adjust valve rocker clearance.
3. Check and adjust, if necessary, the
forward drum assembly and the reverse
band on manual SAO and SA-l trans-
missions.
4. Change engine lubricating oil and oil
filter.
5. Check for fuel and lubricating oil
leaks. Correct if necessary.
6. Check cooling system for leaks and in-
spect water level.
7. Check for loose fittings, clamps,
connections, nuts, bolts, vee belt
tensions etc. Pay particular atten-
tion to loose engine mount fittings.
These could cause mis-alignment.
DAILY CHECKOUT
Do the following:
1. Check sea water strainer, if one has
been installed.
2. Check water level in cooling system.
3. Check lubricating oil level in sump.
Fill to highest mark on dipstick.
4. Turn down grease cup on water pump,
if used, one full turn.
5. Check lubricating oil level in trans-
mission. Fill to highest mark on
dipstick.
SEASONAL CHECK-OUT (MORE OFTEN IF POSSIBLE)
Do the following:
1. Check generator or alternator "V"
belt for tension.
2. Check water level in battery.
3. Change oil in sump. Oil may be
sucked out of sump by attaching a
suction hose (3/8" ID) over the out-
side of the oil sump pipe, located
aft of the dipstick. Figure 1.
See Note, next page.
4. Replace lubricating oil filt~r. Fig. 2.
See Note, next page.
5. Fill sump with approximately 4.5 US
quarts of diesel lubricating oil to
high mark on dipstick. Do not over
fill. See Note nex~ page-.--------
19
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2

20
CAUTION: The use of different brands of
lubricating oils during oil changes has
been known to cause extensive oil sludg-
ing and may in many instances cause com-
plete oil starvation.
6. Start engine and run for 3 or 4
minutes. Stop engine and check oil
filter gasket for leaks. Check oil
sump level. This is important as it
may be necessary to add oil to com-
pensate for the oil that is required
to fill the engine's internal oil
passages and oil filter. Add oil as
necessary. Change oil in transmission.
Use SAE 30, High Detergent Lubricating
Oil, Service DG, DM, or DS. Do not
overfill. See note below.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
IT IS MANDATORY THAT THE CHECKS 3, 4, 5
AND 6 BE ATTENDED TO WHEN TOTAL OPERATING
TIME REACHES 150 HOURS. IN SOME INSTANCES,
THIS TOTAL I~ REACHED BEFORE END OF SEASON.
7. Clean Air Filter. The time period for
replacing the air filter depends on
operating conditions, therefore, under
extremely dirty conditions, the season-
al frequency should be increased. The
correct time periods for replacing the
filter will greatly assist in reducing
bore wear, thereby extending the life
of the engine.
8. Check engine for loose bolts, nuts,
etc.
9. Check sea water pump for leaks.
10. Wash primary filter bowl and screen.
If filter bowl contains water or sedi-
ment, filter bowl and secondary oil
fuel filter need to be cleaned more
frequently.
11. Replace secondary fuel filter element.
12. Replace air filter.
END OF SEASON SERVICE
1. Drain fresh water cooling system by re-
moving the surge tank pressure cap and
opening all water system petcocks.
2. Remove zinc rod (usually located in
heat exchanger) and see if it needs
replacing. The zinc rod will take
care of any electrolysis that may occur
between dissimilar metals. Insert new
zinc if necessary.
3. Fill fresh water cooling system with
antifreeze of a reputable make. (Refer
to Cold Weather Precautions.)
4. Start engine. When temperature gauge
indicates l75
0
F, shut engine down and
drain lubricating oil. Remove and re-
place filter. Fill sump with High De-
tergent Lubricating Oil.
5·. Remove air filter. Carefully seal air
intake opening with waterproofed adhes-
ive tape or some other suitable medium.
6.
Seal the exhaust outlet at the most ac-
cessible location as close to the en-
gine as possible.
7. Remove injectors and spray oil into
cylinders.
8. Replace injectors with new sealing
washer under each injector. Turn engine
slowly over compression.
9. Top off fuel tank completely so that no
air space remains, thereby preventing
water formation by condensation.
10. Leave fuel system full of fuel.
11. Change fuel filters before putting the
engine back in servic.e.
12. Wipe engine with a coat of oil or
grease.
13. Change oil in transmission.
14. Disconnect battery and store in fully
charged condition. Before storing the
battery, the battery terminals and
cable connectors should be treated to
prevent corrosion. Recharge battery
every 30 days.
15. Check alignment.