Westerbeke Wpds-20 User manual

TECHNICAL

MANUAL

WESTERBEKE 60

Marine Diesel Engine

WESTERBEKE WPDS-20

Marine Diesel Generator

Publication #15204

Edition

Four

September

1979

j'-.v-

'WESTERBEKE

WESTERBEKECORPORATION

~

MYLES

STANDISH

INDUSTRIAL

PARK

150

JOHN HANCOCK

ROAD,

TAUNTON,

MA

02780-7319

TECHNICAL

MANUAL

WESTERBEKE 60

Marine Diesel Engine

WESTERBEKE WPDS-20

Marine Diesel Generator

Publication #15204

Edition

Four

September

1979

j'-.v-

'WESTERBEKE

WESTERBEKECORPORATION

~

MYLES

STANDISH

INDUSTRIAL

PARK

150

JOHN HANCOCK

ROAD,

TAUNTON,

MA

02780-7319

SECTION INDEX

GENERAL

Introduction Operation

Installation Maintenance

ENGINE OVERHAUL

OTHER OVERHAUL

Marine Engine Electrical System

Cooling System (External)

Transmissions

GENERATOR SETS

HYDRAULIC CRANKING SYSTEM

SERVICE BULLETINS

3

4 YOUR NOTES

INTRODUCTION 5

IMPORTANT

THIS

MANUAL

IS

A

DETAILED

GUIDE

TO

THE

INSTALLATION,

START-UP,

OPERATION

AND

MAINTENANCE

OF

YOUR

WESTERBEKE

MARINE

DIESEL

ENGINE.

THE

INFORMA-

TION

IT

CONTAINS

IS

VITAL

TO

THE

ENGINE'S

DEPENDABLE,

LONG

TERM

OPERA-

TION.

READ

IT

KEEP

IT

IN

A

SAFE

PLACE

KEEP

IT

HANDY

FOR

REFERENCE

AT

ALL

TIMES

FAILURE

TO

DO

SO

WILL

INVITE

SERIOUS

RISK,

NOT

ONLY

TO

YOUR

INVESTMENT,

BUT

YOUR

SAFETY

AS

WELL.

UNDERSTANDING

THE

DIESEL

....

The

diesel

engine

closely

resembles

the

gasoline

engine

inasmuch

as

the

mechanism

is

essentially

the

same.

Its

cylinders

are

arranged

above

its

closed

crankcase;

its

crankshaft

is

of

the

same

general

type

as

that

of

a

gasoline

engine;

it

has

the

same

sort

of

valves,

camshaft,

pistons,

connecting

rods,

lubricating

system

and

reverse

and

reduction

gear.

Therefore,

it.follows

to

a

great

extent

that

a

diesel

engine

requires

the

same

preventative

maintenance

as

that

which

any

intelligent

operator

would

give

to

a

gas-

oline

engine.

The

most

important

factors

are

proper

maintenance

of

the

fuel,

lub-

ricating

and

cooling

systems.

Replacement

of

fuel

and

lubricating

filter

elements

at

the

time

periods

specified

is

a

must,

and

frequent

checking

for

contamination

(i.e.

water,

sediment

etc.)

in

the

fuel

system

is

also

essential.

Another

important

factor

is

the

use

of

the

same

brand

of

"high

detergent"

diesel

lubricating

oil

designed

specifically

for

diesel

engines.

The

diesel

engine

does

differ

from

the

gasoline

engine,

however,

in

the

method

of

handling

and

firing

its

fuel.

The

carbu-

retor

and

ignition

systems

are

done

away

with

and

in

their

place

is

a

single

com-

ponent

-

the

Fuel

Injection

Pump

-

which

performs

the

function

of

both.

Unremitting

care

and

attention

at

the

factory

have

resulted

in

a

Westerbeke

engine

capable

of

many

thousands

of

hours

of

dependable

service.

What

the

manufact-

urer

cannot

control,

however,

is

the

treatment

it

receives

in

service.

This

part

rests

with

you!

ORDERING

PARTS

Whenever

replacement

parts

are

needed,

always

include

the

complete

part

descrip-

tion

and

part

number

(see

separate

Parts

List

furnished,

if

not

part

of

this

pub-

lication).

Be

sure

to

include

the

engine's

model

and

serial

number.

Also

be

sure

to

insist

upon

Westerbeke

factory

packaged

parts,

because

"will

fit"

parts

are

frequently

not

made

to

the

same

specifications

as

original

equipment.

GENERATOR

SETS

Westerbeke

diesels

are

used

for

both

the

propulsion

of

boats

and

for

generating

electrical

power.

For

generator

set

app-

lications,

all

details

of

this

Manual

apply,

except

in

regard

to

certain

por-

tions

of

the

Installation,

Operation

and

Maintenance

sections.

Additional

infor-

mation

is

provided

in

the

section

titled

Generator

Sets,

Section

T.

6

INSTALLATION 7

FOREWORD

Since

the

boats

in

which

these

engines

are

used

are

many and

varied,

details

of

engine

installation

are

equally

so.

It

is

not

the

purpose

of

this

section

to

advise

boatyards

and

engine

installers

on

the

generally

well

understood

and

well

developed

procedures

for

installation

of

en-

gines.

However,

the

following

outline

of

general

procedure

is

included

because

it

is

valuable

in

explaining

the

functions

of

each

component,

the

reasons

why,

the

precautions

to

be

watched

and

the

relationship

of

the

installation

to

the

operation

of

the

engine.

There

are

details

of

the

installation

which

should

have

a

periodic

check

and

of

which

the

operator

should

have

a

thorough

understanding

to

insure

good

operating

conditions

for

the

engine

and

correct

procedure

for

its

servicing.

INSPECTION

OF

EQUIPMENT

The

engine

is

shipped

from

the

factory

mounted

securely

and

properly

crated.

Ac-

cessory

equipment

is

shipped

in

a

separate

small

box,

usually

packed

with

the

engine

crate.

Before

accepting

shipment

from

the

transportation

company,

the

crate

should

be

opened

and

an

inspection

made

for

con-

cealed

damage.

If

either

visible

or

con-

cealed

damage

is

noted,

you

should

require

the

delivering

agent

to

sign

"Received

in

damaged

condition".

Also

check

contents

of

the

shipment

against

the

packing

list

and

make

sure

note

is

made

of

any

discrep-

ancies.

This

is

your

protection

against

loss

or

damage.

Claims

for

loss

or

damage

must

be

made

to

the

carrier,

not

to

J.

H.

Westerbeke

Corporation.

RIGGING

AND

LIFTING

The

engine

is

fitted

with

lifting

rings.

Rope

or

chain

slings

should

be

at-

tached

to

the

rings

and

the

engine

lifted

by

means

of

tackle

attached

to

this

sling.

The

lifting

rings

have

been

designed

to

carry

the

full

weight

of

the

engine,

therefore

auxiliary

slings

are

not

re-

quired

or

desired.

CAUTION:

Slings

must

not

be

so

short

as

to

place

the

engine

lifting

eyes

in

sig-

nificant

sheer

stress.

Strain

on

the

engine

lifting

eyes

must

not

be

in

excess

of

100

from

the

vertical.

A

spacer

bar

must

be

placed

between

the

two

lifting

eyes,

if

supported

by

valve

cover

studs.

The

general

rule

in

moving

engines

is

to

see

that

all

equipment

used

is

amply

strong

and

firmly

fixed

in

place.

Move

the

engine

a

little

at

a

time

and

see

that

it

is

firmly

supported.

Eliminate

possibil-

ity

of

accidents

by

avoiding

haste.

Do

not

lift

from

the

propeller

coupling,

or

pry

against

this

with

crowbar,

as

you

may

distort

the

coupling.

In

some

cases

it

may

be

necessary

to

lift

the

engine

in

other

than

the

regular

horizontal

position.

It

may

be

that

the

engine

must

be

lowered

endwise

through

a

small

hatchway

which

cannot

be

made

larger.

If

the

opening

is

extremely

restricted

it

is

possible

to

reduce,

to

some

extent,

the

outside

clearances

such

as

generator,

cooling

piping,

water

tank,

filters,

mounting

lugs,

etc.

This

accessory

equip-

ment

should

be

removed

by

a

competent

mechanic

and

special

care

should

be

taken

to

avoid

damage

to

any

exposed

parts

and

to

avoid

dirt

entering

openings.

The

parts

which

have

been

removed

should

be

returned

to

position

as

soon

as

the

restriction

has

been

passed.

In

case

it

is

necessary

to

hoist

the

engine

either

front

end

upwards

or

reverse

gear

end

upwards,

the

attachment

of

slings

must

be

done

very

carefully

to

avoid

the

possibility

of

damage

to

the

parts

on

which

the

weight

may

bear.

It

is

best

if

special

rigging

work

be

done

by

someone

experienced

and

competent

in

the

handling

of

heavy

machinery.

ENGINE

BOLTS

It

is

recommended

that

bronze

hanger

bolts

of

appropriate

size

be

used

through

the

engine

flexible

mounts.

Lag

screws

are

less

preferred

because

their

hold

on

the

wood

is

weakened

every

time

they

are

moved,

whereas

the

lag

bolt

stays

in

pos-

ition

and

the

nut

on

top

is

used

to

tight-

en

the

engine

down

or

is

removed

to

permit

the

engine

to

be

lifted.

The

bolt

itself

stays

in

pos~tion

at

all

times,

as

a

stud,

and

the

bond

between

the

bolt

and

the

wood

is

not

weakened

by

its

removal.

8

FOUNDATION

FOR

ENGINE

A

good

engine

bed

contributes

much

toward

the

satisfactory

operation

of

the

engine.

The

engine

bed

must

be

of

rigid

construction

and

neither

deflect

nor

twist

when

subjected

to

the

engine

weight

or

the

position

the

boat

may

have

to

take

under

the

effects

of

rough

seas.

The

bed

must

keep

the

engine

within

one

or

two

thous-

andths

of

an

inch

of

this

position

at

all

times.

It

has

to

withstand

the

forward

push

of

the

propeller

which

is

applied

to

the

propeller

shaft,

to

the

thrust

washer

bearing

in

the

engine

and

finally

to

the

engine

bolts

and

engine

bed.

In

fiberglas

hulls,

we

recommend

that

similar

wooden

stringers

as

in

wooden

hulls

be

formed

and

fitted,

then

glassed

to

the

hull

securely.

This

allows

hanger

bolts

to

be

installed

firmly

in

wood,

thus

reducing

noise

and

transmitted

vibration.

The

temptation

to

install

the

engine

on

a

pair

of

fiberglas

"angle

irons"

should

be

resisted.

Such

construction

will

allow

engine

vibrations

to

pass

through

to

the

hull.

Flexible

mounts

require

a

firm

foundation

against

which

to

react

if

they

are

to

do

their

job.

When

possible,

follow

bed

design

"A"

and

avoid

bed

design

"B".

GOOD

A

PROPELLER

COUPLING

Each

Westerbeke

Diesel

engine

is

regu-

larly

fitted

with

a

suitable

coupling

for

connecting

the

propeller

shaft

to

the

engine.

The

coupling

must

not

only

transmit

the

power

of

the

engine

to

turn

the

shaft,

but

must

also

transmit

the

thrust

either

ahead

or

astern

from

the

shaft

to

the

thrust

bearing

which

is

built

into

the

reduction

gear

housing

of

the

engine.

This

coupling

is

very

carefully

machined

for

accurate

fit.

For

all

engine

models,

a

propeller

half-

coupling,

bored

to

shaft

size

for

the

specific

order,

is

supplied.

The

coupling

either

has

a keyway

with

set

screws

or

is

of

the

clamping

type.

The

forward

end

of

the

propeller

shaft

has

a

long

straight

keyway.

Any

burrs

should

be

removed

from

the

shaft

end.

The

coupling

should

be

a

light

drive

fit

on

the

shaft

and

the

shaft

should

not

have

to

be

scraped

down

or

filed

in

order

to

get

a

fit.

It

is

important

that

the

key

be

properly

fitted

both

to

the

shaft

and

the

coupling.

The

key

should

fit

the

side

of

the

keyway

very

closely,

but

should

not

touch

the

top

of

the

keyway

in

the

hub

of

the

coupling.

If

it

seems

difficult

to

drive

the

coupling

over

the

shaft,

the

coupling

can

be

expanded

by

heating

in

a

pail

of

boil-

ing

water.

The

face

of

the

propeller

coupling

must

be

exactly

perpendicular

to

the

centerline

or

axis

of

the

propeller

shaft.

PROPELLER

The

type

and

size

of

propeller

varies

with

the

gear

ratio

and

must

be

selected

to

fit

the

application

based

upon

boat

tests.

To

utilize

the

full

power

of

the

engine,

and

to

achieve

ideal

loading

con-

ditions,

it

is

desirable

to

use

a

propel-

ler

which

will

permit

the

engine

to

reach

its

full

rated

speed

at

full

throttle

under

normal

load.

ALIGNMENT

OF

ENGINE

The

engine

must

be

properly

and

exactly

aligned

with

the

propeller

shaft.

No

matter

what

material

is

used

to

build

a

boat

it

will

be

found

to

be

flexible

to

some

extent

and

the

boat

hull

will

change

its

shape

to

a

greater

extent

than

is

usually

realized

when

it

is

launched

and

operated

in

the

water.

It

is

therefore

very

important

to

check

the

engine

align-

ment

at

frequent

intervals

and

to

correct

any

errors

when

they

may

appear.

Misalignment

between

the

engine

and

the

propeller

shaft

is

the

cause

of

troubles

which

are

blamed

often

on

other

causes.

It

will

create

excessive

bearing

wear,

rapid

shaft

wear

and

will,

in

many

cases,

reduce

the

life

of

the

hull

by

loosening

the

hull

fastenings.

A

bent

propeller

shaft

will

have

exactly

the

same

effect

and

it

is

therefore

necessary

that

the

propeller

shaft

itself

be

perfectly

straight.

One

particularly

annoying

result

of

mis-

alignment

may

be

leakage

of

transmission

oil

through

the

rear

oil

seal.

Check

to

make

sure

that

alignment

is

within

the

limits

prescribed.

The

engine

should

be

moved

around

on

the

bed

and

supported

on

the

screw-jacks

or

shims

until

the

two

halves

of

the

coup-

lings

can

be

brought

together

without

using

force

and

so

that

the

flanges

meet

evenly

all

around.

It

is

best

not

to

drill

the

foundation

for

the

foundation

bolts

until

the

approximate

alignment

has

been

accu-

rately

determined.

Never

attempt

a

final

alignment

with

the

boat

on

land.

The

boat

should

be

in

the

water

and

have

had

an

opportunity

to

assume

its

final

water

form.

It

is

best

to

do

the

alignment

with

the

fuel

and

water

tank

about

half

full

and

all

the

usual

equipment

on

board

and

after

the

main

mast

has

been

stepped

and

final

rig-

ging

has

been

accomplished.

Take

plenty

of

time

in

making

this

alignment

and

do

not

be

satisfied

with

anything

less

than

perfect

results.

The

alignment

is

correct

when

the

shaft

can

be

slipped

backwards

and

forward

into

the

counterbore

very

easily

and

when a

feeler

gauge

indicates

that

the

flanges

come

exactly

together

at

all

points.

The

two

halves

of

the

propeller

coupling

should

be

parallel

within

0.002

inches

(A).

I

\

~

\

/

9

In

making

the

final

check

for

alignment,

the

engine

half

coupling

should

be

held

in

one

position

and

the

alignment

with

the

propeller

coupling

tested

with

the

propeller

coupling

in

each

of

four

positions,

rotated

900

between

each

position.

This

test

will

also

check

whether

the

propeller

half

coup-

ling

is

in

exact

alignment

on

its

shaft.

Then,

keeping

the

propeller

coupling

in

one

position

the

alignment

should

be

checked

rotating

the

engine

half

coupling

to

full

position

each

900

from

the

The

engine

alignment

should

be

rechecked

after

the

boat

has

been

in

service

for

one

to

three

weeks

and,

if

necessary,

the

alignment

remade.

It

will

usually

be

found

that

the

engine

is

no

longer

in

alignment.

This

in

not

because

the

work

was

improperly

done

at

first,

but

because

the

boat

has

taken

some

time

to

take

its

final

shape

and

the

engine

bed

and

engine

stringers

have

probably

absorbed

some

moisture.

It

may

even

be

necessary

to

re-

align

at

a

further

period.

The

coupling

should

always

be

opened

up

and

the

bolts

removed

whenever

the

boat

is

hauled

out

or

moved

from

the

land

to

the

water,

and

during

storage

in

a

cradle.

The

flexibility

of

the

boat

often

puts

a

very

severe

strain

on

the

shaft

or

the

coupling

or

both

when

it

is

being

moved.

In

some

cases

the

shaft

has

actually

been

bent

by

these

strains.

This

does

not

apply

to

small

boats

that

are

hauled

out

of

the

water

when

not

in

use,

unless

they

are

dry

for

a

considerable

time.

EXHAUST

SYSTEM

Exhaust

line

installations

vary

consid-

erably

and

each

must

be

designed

for

the

particular

job.

The

general

requirements

are

to

provide

an

outlet

line

with

a

mini-

mum

of

restrictions

and

arranged

so

that

sea

water,

rain

water,

or

condensation

cannot

get

back

into

the

engine.

There

should

be a

considerable

fall

in

the

line

between

the

exhaust

manifold

flange

and

the

discharge

end.

This

slope

in

the

pipe

makes

it

difficult

for

water

to

be

driven

in

very

far

by a wave;

and

a

steep

drop

followed

by a

long

slope

is

better

than

a

straight

gradual

slope.

Avqid

any

depres-

sion

or

trough

to

the

line

which

would

fill

with

water

and

obstruct

the

flow

of

exhaust

gas.

Also

avoid

any

sharp

bends.

Brass

or

copper

is

not

acceptable

for

wet

exhaust

systems,

as

the

combination

of

salt

water

and

diesel

exhaust

gas

will

10

cause

rapid

deterioration.

Galvanized

iron

fittings

and

galvanized

iron

pipe

is

recommended

for

the

exhaust

line.

The

ex-

haust

line

must

be

at

least

as

large

as

the

engine

exhaust

manifold

flange

and

be

increased

in

size

if

there

is

an

especial-

ly

long

run

and/or

many

elbows.

It

should

be

increased

by

1/2"

in

I.

D.

for

every

10

feet

beyond

the

first

10

feet.

EXHAUST

SYSTEM

WITH

WATER

JACKETED

STANDPIPE

To

insure

vibration

doesn't

transmit

to

hull,

use

a

flexible

section

preferably

of

stainless

steel,

no

less

than

12"

overall,

threaded

at

each

end

and

installed

as

close

to

the

engine

as

possible.

This

flexible

section

should

be

installed

with

no

bends

and

covered

with

insulating

mater-

ial.

The

exhaust

pipe

should

be

properly

supported

by

brackets

to

eliminate

any

strain

on

the

manifold

flange

studs.

Many

installations

use

flexible

rubber

exhaust

hose

for

the

water

cooled

section

of

the

exhaust

line

because

of

the

ease

of

instal-

lation

and

flexibility.

Provide

adequate

1.3/4"

0.0.

'0'1"'0

0

0;

11-1/2"

01.0,

1"11J~"L

ER,

PN

1)1;1,.

1-311.."

0,0.

5-318"

WATER

LIFT

EXHAUST

SYSTEM

WITH

"HYDRO-HUSH"

MUFFLER

support

for

the

rubber

hose

to

prevent

sagging,

bending,

and

formation

of

water

pockets.

Always

arrange

that

water

discharge

into

the

rubber

hose

section

is

behind

a

riser

or

sufficiently

below

the

exhaust

flange

so

that

water

cannot

possibly

flow

back

into

the

engine.

Also

make

sure

that

entering

sea

water

cannot

spray

directly

against

the

inside

of

the

exhaust

piping.

Otherwise

excessive

erosion

will

occur.

MEASURING

EXHAUST

GAS

BACK

PRESSURE

Back

pressure

must

be

measured

on

a

straight

section

of

the

exhaust

line

and

as

near

as

possible

to

the

engine

exhaust

manifold.

The

engine

should

be

run

at

maximum

load

during

the

measurement

period.

Set-up

should

be

as

shown

below.

1.

For

normally

asperated

engines:

Pressure

Test

Mercury

Test

Water

Column

1-1/2"

Max

PSI

3"

Mercury

39"

2.

For

turbo-charged

engines:

Pressure

Test

Mercury

Test

0.75

Max

PSI

1-1/2"

Mercury

Checking

The Back

Pressure

1.

Exhaust

pipe

flange

2.

Exhaust

line

Water

Column

19-1/2"

3.

Transparent

plastic

hose,

partly

filled

with

water.

Measurement

"A" may

not

exceed

39"

for

normally

asperated

engines

and

19.5"

for

turbo-charged

engines.

WATER

CONNECTIONS

Seacocks

and

strainers

should

be

of

the

full

flow

type

at

least

one

size

greater

than

the

inlet

thread

of

the

sea

water

pump. The

strainer

should

be

of

the

type

which

may

be

withdrawn

for

cleaning

while

the

vessel

is

at

sea.

Water

lines

can

be

copper

tubing

or

wire-wound,

reinforced

rubber

hose.

In

any

case,

use

a

section

of

flexible

hose

that

will

not

collapse

under

suction,

be-

tween

the

hull

inlet

and

engine

and

between

the

outlet

and

the

exhaust

system.

This

takes

up

vibration

and

permits

the

engine

to

be

moved

slightly

when

it's

being

re-

aligned.

Do

not

use

street

elbows

in

suction

piping.

All

pipe

and

fittings

should

be

of

bronze.

Use

sealing

compound

at

all

connections

to

prevent

air

leaks.

The

neoprene

impeller

in

the

sea

(raw)

water

pump

should

never

be

run

dry.

FUEL

TANK

AND

FILTERS

Fuel

tanks

may

be

of

fiberglass,

monel,

aluminum,

plain

steel

or

terne

plate.

If

made

of

fiberglass,

be

certain

that

the

interior

is

gel

coated

to

prevent

fibers

from

contaminating

the

fuel

system.

Copper

or

galvanized

fuel

tanks

should

not

be

used.

It

is

not

necessary

to

mount

the

tank

above

the

engine

level

as

the

fuel

lift

pump

provided

will

raise

the

fuel

from

the

tank.

The

amount

of

lift

should

be

kept

minimum

(6

feet

being

maximum).

If

a

tank

is

already

installed

above

engine

level

it

can

be

utilized

in

this

position.

Great

care

should

be

taken

to

ensure

that

the

fuel

system

is

correctly

installed

so

that

air-

locks

are

eliminated

and

precautions

taken

against

dirt

and

water

entering

the

fuel.

A

primary

fuel

filter

of

the

water

col-

lecting

type

should

be

installed

between

the

fuel

tank

and

the

fuel

lift

pump. A

recommended

type

is

available

from

the

list

of

accessories.

The

secondary

fuel

filter

is

fitted

on

the

engine

between

the

fuel

lift

pump

and

the

injection

pump

and

has

a

replaceable

element.

As

the

fuel

lift

pump

has

a

capacity

in

excess

of

that

required

by

the

injection

pump,

the

overflow

is

piped

to

the

fuel

tank

and

should

be

connected

to

the

top

of

the

tank

or

as

near

the

top

as

possible.

To

insure

satisfactory

operation,

a

diesel

engine

must

have

a

dependable

sup-

ply

of

clean

diesel

fuel.

For

this

reason,

cleanliness

and

care

are

especially

im-

portant

at

the

time

when

the

fuel

tank

is

installed,

because

dirt

left

anywhere

in

the

fuel

lines

or

tank

will

certainly

cause

fouling

of

the

injector

nozzles

when

the

engine

is

started

for

the

first

time.

FUEL

PIPING

We

recommended

copper

tubing

together

with

suitable

fittings,

both

for

the

supply

line

and

the

return

line.

Run

the

tubing

in

the

longest

pieces

obtainable

to

avoid

11

the

use

of

unnecessary

fittings

and

con-

nectors.

The

shut

off

valve

in

the

line

between

the

fuel

tank

and

engine

should

be

of

the

fuel

oil

type,

and

it

is

important

that

all

joints

be

free

of

pressure

leaks.

Keep

fuel

lines

as

far

as

possible

from

exhaust

pipe

for

minimum

temperature,

to

eliminate

"vapor

locks".

The

fuel

piping

leading

from

the

tank

to

the

engine

compartment

should

always

be

securely

anchored

to

prevent

chafing.

Usually

the

copper

tubing

is

secured

by

means

of

copper

straps.

The

final

connection

to

the

engine

should

be

through

flexible

rubber

hoses.

ELECTRIC

PANEL

The

Westerbeke

all-electric

panel

util-

izes

an

electronic

tachometer

with

a

built-in

hour

meter.

Tachometer

cables

are

no

longer

required,

except

for

the

Skipper

mechanical

panel.

Mounted

on

the

panel

are

an

ammeter,

water

temperature

gauge

and

oil

pressure

gage.

Each

instru-

ment

is

lighted.

The

all-electric

panel

is

isolated

from

ground

and

may

be

mounted

where

visible.

It

is

normally

pre-wired.

WESTERBEKE

ALL-ELECTRIC

PANEL

SKIPPER

MECHANICAL

TACH

PANEL

ELECTRICAL

EQUIPMENT

Most

Westerbeke

engines

are

supplied

pre-wired

and

with

plug-in

connectors.

Never

make

or

break

connections

while

the

engine

is

running.

Carefully

follow

all

instructions

on

the

wiring

diagram

sup-

12

plied,

especially

those

relating

to

fuse/

cicuit

breaker

requirements.

Starter

batteries

should

be

located

as

close

to

the

engine

as

possible

to

avoid

voltage

drop

through

long

leads.

It

is

bad

practice

to

use

the

starter

batteries

for

other

services

unless

they

require

low

amperage

or

are

intermittent'.

In

cases

where

there

are

substantial

loads

(from

lights,

refrigerators,

radios,

depth

sounders,

etc.)

it

is

essential

to

have

a

complet"e,

separate

system

and

to

provide

charging

current

for

this

by

means

of

a

second

alternator

or

"alternator

output

splitter".

Starter

batteries

must

be

of

a

type

which

permits

a

high

rate

of

discharge

(Diesel

starting).

Carefully

follow

the

recommended

wire

sizes

shown

in

the

wiring

diagrams.

Plan

installation

so

the

battery

is

close

to

engine

and

use

the

following

cable

sizes:

111

-

for

distances

up

to

8

feet

111/0

-

for

distances

up

to

10

feet

#2/0

-

for

distances

up

to

13

feet

113/0

-

for

distances

up

to

16

feet

MECHANICAL

CONTROLS

The recommended

practice

is

to

have

the

stop-run

lever

loaded

to

the

run

position

and

controlled

by a

sheathed

cable

to

a

push-pull

knob

at

the

pilot

station.

The

throttle

lever

should

be

connected

to

a

Morse

type

lever

at

the

pilot

station

by

a

sheathed

cable.

The

transmission

control

lever

may

be

connected

to

the

pilot

station

by a

flex-

ible,

sheathed

cable

and

controlled

by a

Morse

type

lever.

The

single-lever

type

gives

clutch

and

throttle

control

with

full

throttle

range

in

neutral

position.

The

two-lever

type

provides

clutch

control

with

one

lever

and

throttle

control

with

the

other.

Any

bends

in

the

control

cables

should

be

gradual.

End

sections

at

engine

and

transmission

must

be

securely

mounted.

After

linkages

are

completed,

check

the

installation

for

full

travel,

making

sure

that,

when

the

transmission

control

lever

at

the

pilot

station

is

in

forward,

neutral

and

reverse,

the

control

lever

on

the

transmission

is

on

the

respective

detent.

Check

the

throttle

control

lever

and

the

stop-run

lever

on

the

fuel

injec-

tion

pump

for

full

travel.

OPERATION 13

PREPARATION

FOR

FIRST

START

The

engine

is

shipped

"dry"

...

with

lub-

ricating

oil

drained

from

the

crankcase

and

transmission.

Therefore,

be

sure

to

follow

these

recommended

procedures

care-

fully

before

starting

the

engine

for

the

first

time.

1.

Remove

oil

filler

cap

and

fill

oil

sump

with

heavy

duty,

diesel

lubricating

oil

to

the

highest

mark

on

the

dipstick.

See

table

under

Maintenance

for

an

ap-

proved

lubricating

oil.

Do

not

over-

fill.

Select

an

approved

grade

from

the

listing

and

continue

to

use

it.

2.

If

the

Reverse

Gear

has

a

manual

clutch,

fill

to

the

highest

mark on

the

dip-

stick

with

S.A.E.

30

lubricating

oil.

You

may

use

the

same

oil

as

in

the

en-

gine.

If

Reverse

Gear

is

hydraulic,

fill

to

the

highest

mark

on

the

dipstick

with

type

A

Hydraulic

fluid.

Do

not

over-

fill.

3.

Fill

fresh

water

cooling

system

only

after

opening

all

pet-cocks

and

plugs

until

all

entrapped

air

is

expelled.

On

fresh

water

cooled

engines,

fill

the

fresh

water

cooling

system

with

fresh

clean

water

and/or

anti-freeze

solution

(see

Cold

Weather

precautions

in

Main-

tenance

Section).

Use a

50-50

anti-freeze

solution

if

cold

weather

is

to

be

experienced.

Fill

surge

tank

to

within

one

inch

of

the

top.

Check

this

level

after

engine

has

run

for

a few

minutes.

If

trapped

air

is

released,

the

water

level

may

have

dropped.

If

so,

refill

tank

to

within

one

inch

of

top

and

replace

filler

cap.

4.

Ensure

battery

water

level

is

at

least

3/8"

above

the

battery

plates

and

bat-

tery

is

fully

charged

so

that

it

is

capable

of

the

extra

effort

that

may

be

required

on

the

first

start.

5.

Fill

fuel

tank

with

clean

Diesel

fuel

oil;

No. 2

diesel

fuel

oil

is

recom-

mended. The

use

of

No.

1

is

permissible

but

No. 2

is

preferred

because

of

its

higher

lubricant

content.

NOTE:

If

there

is

no

filter

in

the

filler

of

the

fuel

tank,

the

recommended

proced-

ure

is

to

pour

the

fuel

through

a

funnel

of

200 mesh

wire

screen.

6.

Fill

grease

cup

on

water

pump,

if

pres-

ent,

with

a good

grade

of

water

pump

grease.

BLEEDING

THE

SYSTEM

The

fuel

injection

system

of

a

compres-

sion

ignition

engine

depends

upon

very

high

fuel

pressure

during

the

injection

stroke

to

function

correctly.

Relatively

tiny

movements .of

the

pumping

plungers

pro-

duce

this

pressure

and

if

any

air

is

pres-

ent

inside

the

high

pressure

line,

then

this

air

acts

as

a

cushion

and

prevents

the

correct

pressure,

and

therefore

fuel

injec-

tion,

from

being

achieved.

In

consequence

it

is

essential

that

all

air

is

bled

from

the

system

whenever

any

part

of

the

system

has

been

opened

for

repair

or

serv~c~ng.

Running

out

of

fuel

is

a

misfortune

that

also

necessitates

complete

bleeding

of

the

system

before

the

engine

can

be

restarted.

The

following

instructions

for

fuel

system

bleeding

apply

to

typical

systems

using

in-line

DPA

pumps (shown

in

Figs.1

and

2).

Before

priming

and

bleeding,

insure

that

the

outside

of

the

bleed

screws

and

surrounding

area

is

thoroughly

clean

to

prevent

dirt

and

foreign

matter

entering

the

system.

DPA

DISTRIBUTOR

PUMPS

The

following

prim-

ing

and

venting

sequence

is

applicable

to

both

mechanically

and

hydraulically

govern-

ed

DPA

pumps. The

only

difference

is

the

physical

location

on

the

pump

of

the

gov-

ernor

bleed

screw

"D"

and

this

is

indi-

cated

in

the

appropriate

illustration,

Fig.

1

14

Fig.

1

for

mechanically

governed

and

Fig.

2

for

hydraulically

governed

pumps.

I

-

..

:-y

-l

I " I

Fig.

2

If

the

fuel

system

is

fitted

with

a

fuel

feed

pump,

slacken

both

the

filter

bleed

screw

"A"

and

the

injection

pump

fuel

inlet

union

"B",

and

operate

the

hand

priming

lever

of

the

feed

pump

until

fuel

free

from

air

issues

from

both

the

vents.

Tighten

both

the

vent

connections.

In

a

gravity

fed

fuel

system

turn

on

the

fuel

and

carry

out

the

same

procedure

with

the

bleed

screw

and

fuel

inlet.

Slacken

the

vent

valve

fitted

to

one

of

the

two

hydraulic

head

locking

screws

"c"

and

the

bleed

screw

"D"

on

the

governor

housing.

Operate

the

hand

priming

lever

of

the

feed

pump,

until

fuel

free

from

air

bubbles

issues

from

the

vent

"c"

and

then

tighten

this

bleed

screw.

NOTE:

The

space

within

the

governor

hous-

ing

(vented

by

screw

"D")

is

normally

filled,

and

its

contents

lubricated,

by

fuel

oil

back-leaked

from

the

pump

plungers,

the

pump

rotor

and

the

ad-

vance

device

if

fitted.

This

is

the

normal

way

in

which

this

space

becomes

filled

with

oil

and

this

can

naturally

take

a

long

time

at

feed

pump

pressures.

However,

if

the

reason

that

the

pump

is

being

vented

is

because

a

pipe

line

or

in-

jector

or

filter

element

has

been

changed

or

serviced

or

the

system

has

run

out

of

fuel,

then

the

governor

housing

will

still

be

filled

with

fuel

oil

and

bleeding

by

means

of

the

hand

priming

lever

of

the

feed

pump

will

suffice.

In

this

event,

close

the

governor

bleed

screw

"D"

as

sOon

as

fuel

free

from

air

issues

from

the

vent.

If,

however,

a new

pump

has

been

fitted

to

the

system,

then

its

governor

housing

will

most

likely

be

empty

of

fuel

oil

and

bleeding

proceeds

as

follows.

Leave

the

governor

bleed

screw

"D"

slackened.

any

two

injector

pipe

line

connections

at

the

injector

end.

Set

the

throttle

to

the

fully

open

pos-

ition

and

turn

the

engine

until

fuel

free

from

air

flows

from

the

unions.

Then

re-

tighten

the

loosened

injector

pipe

unions.

Start

the

engine

and

run

it

at

fast

idling

speed

until

air-free

fuel

exudes

from

the

governor

bleed

screw

"D".

Tighten

this

screw

and

stop

the

engine.

Governing

may

be

erratic

during

this

procedure,

therefore

stand

by

to

stop

the

engine

should

any

excessive

engine

speed

develop.

RECOMMENDED

SPARES

Owners

are

often

in

doubt

as

to

the

amount

of

fuel

injection

equipment

spares

to

carry.

A

great

deal

depends

upon

the

use

of

the

craft

and

its

location.

General

coastal

use

in

well-

populated

areas

is

one

thing,

but

voyaging

up

the

Amazon

delta,

for

example,

would

be

quite

different

and

would

require

a com-

prehensive

spares

kit.

Generally

speaking,

the

average

boat

owner

is

within

relatively

easy

reach

of

service

centers

and

requires

spares

only

as

insurance

against

breakdown

and

for

general

servicing

within

the

scope

of

the

owner

or

crew.

A

suitable

kit

for

such

a

purpose

would

consist

of

a

replacement

filter

element

and

a

set

of

sealing

and

"0"

rings

for

each

filter.

Spare

bleed

screws

for

pumps

and

filters

are

also

required,

for

screws

are

easily

lost

or

damaged

in

a

boat

when

bleed-

ing

the

system.

A

full

set

of

high

pressure

injection

pipes

should

also

be

carried,

for

a

fractured

or

cracked

pipe

could

occur

at

any

time

and

no

patching

is

possible

with

these

pipes.

The

correct

set

of

pipes

can

be

obtained

from

the

engine

manufacturer's

agent

or

service

center

and

will

be

supplied

already

bent

to

shape

and

cleaned

intern-

ally

with

both

ends

plugged

against

the

entry

of

dirt.

They

will

be

supplied

pack-

ed

as

a

set

and

it

is

important

to

keep

them

this

way

until

required

for

use.

It

is

vitally

important

that

the

internal

sur-

face

of

the

pipe

is

kept

scrupulously

clean

until

fitted

to

the

engine.

A

spare

set

of

fuel

injectors

of

the

right

type

and

correctly

set

for

the

par-

ticular

engine

together

with

a

set

of

the

correct

seating

washers

will

not

only

en-

able

defective

injectors

to

be

changed

when

required

but

will

also

permit

engine

use

while

one

set

is

away

being

serviced.

Do

be

careful

to

check

with

the

engine

parts

list

regarding

whether

the

engine

requires

injector

seating

washers

or

not.

Additionally,

spare

banjo

bolts

and

washers

for

back

leak

pipes

and

low

pres-

sure

pipes

are

handy

things

to

have

when a

joint

starts

leaking.

Remember no

equip-

ment

ever

breaks

down when

it

is

station-

ary

in

port.

Breakdowns

and

trouble

occur

when

the

equipment

is

working

-

and

that

means

at

sea!

Do

not

forget

the

tools.

Always

carry

the

correct

spanners

for

the

job

-hammers

and

adjustable

wrenches

may

be

all

right

in

some

locations,

but

please,

not

around

your

fuel

injection

equipment

on

your

craft.

HINTS

AND

TIPS

It

is

essential

to

stress

the

need

for

absolute

cleanliness

of

the

fuel

at

all

times.

This

requirement

also

extends

to

methods

of

operating

and

servic-

ing

the

equipment

and

to

precautions

about

refueling.

A

useful

hint

when

changing

filter

ele-

ments

is

to

obtain

a

polythene

bag

large

enough

and

strong

enough

to

hold

the

filter

element

and

put

this

around

the

element

and

filter

head

before

unscrewing

the

center

bolt.

Undo

the

center

bolt

and

allow

ele-

ment,

oil

and

base

all

to

go

into

the

bag.

Then empty

the

bag

into

a

bowl

or

container

large

enough

for

the

contents

to

be

separ-

ated

and

the

base

and

sealing

rings

recov-

ered

if

required.

Granulated

pieces

of

substance

familiar

to

all

cat

owners

who

live

in

apartments

and

sold

for

use

in

cat

litter

boxes

is

ideal

for

soaking

up

diesel

fuel

spilled

when

venting

or

removing

pipe

lines.

Put

the

material

down

before

working

on

the

system.

Barrier

creams

of

the

oil-defying

kind

are

useful

and

make

life

much

easier

when

removing

the

grime

from

hands.

Put

on

the

cream

before

the

job

is

tackled

and

then

dirt,

grease

and

cream

are

removed

together

when

the

job

is

completed.

In

the

majority

of

fueling

installations

fuel

will

be

supplied

through

a

hose

-

always

wipe

the

pump

nozzle

with

a

clean

non-fluffy

piece

of

cloth

before

use.

None

of

those

grubby

old

swabs,

please

-

they

will

do

far

more

harm

than

good.

If

you

spill

any

fuel

on

tank,

deck

or

fittings,

wipe

it

off

right

away.

Diesel

fuel

oil

does

not

evaporate

as

does

gasoline,

and

if

left,

will

gather

dirt

and

grit,

will

track

everywhere

and

keep

on

smelling.

Be

careful

where

you

put

down

the

fuel

tank

cap

when

refueling

-

see

that

it

doesn't

pick

up

dirt

or

grit

-

this

is

how

quite

a

lot

of

dirt

gets

into

the

tank.

15

Avoid

dubious

sources

of

fuel.

Job

lots

of

unknown

origin

are

not

always

the

bargain

they

appear

to

be

and

fuel

inject-

ion

equipment

is

expensive

to

renew

when

damaged.

WHEN

ENGINE

STARTS

1.

Check

Oil

Pressure

immediately.

Normal

oil

pressure

is

approximately

50

psi

at

operating

speeds,

15

psi

when

idling.

(Extremely

hot

engine.)

2.

Check

Sea

Water

Flow.

Look

for

water

at

exhaust

outlet.

Do

this

without

delay.

3.

Recheck

Crankcase

Oil.

After

the

en-

gine

has

run

for

3

or

4

minutes,

subse-

quent

to

an

oil

change

or

new

installa-

tion,

stop

the

engine

and

check

the

crankcase

oil

level.

This

is

import-

ant

as

it

may

be

necessary

to

add

oil

to

compensate

for

the

oil

that

is

re-

quired

to

fill

the

engine's

internal

oil

passages

and

oil

filter.

Add

oil

as

necessary.

Check

oil

level

each

day

of

operation.

4.

Recheck

Transmission

Oil

Level.

(This

applies

only

subsequent

to

an

oil

change

or

a new

installation.)

In

such

a

case,

stop

the

engine

after

running

for

sev-

eral

minutes

at

800

rpm

with

one

shift

into

forward

and

one

into

reverse,

then

add

oil

as

necessary.

Check

oil

level

each

day

of

operation.

5.

Recheck

Expansion

Tank

Water

Level,

if

engine

is

fresh

water

cooled.

(This

applies

after

cooling

system

has

been

drained

or

filled

for

the

first

time.)

Stop

engine

after

it

has

reached

oper-

ating

temperature

of

l75

0F

and

add

water

to

within

one

inch

of

top

of

tank.

WARNING:

The

system

is

pressurized

when

overheated

and

the

pressure

must

be

re-

leased

gradually

if

the

filler

cap

is

to

be

removed.

It

is

advisable

to

protect

the

hands

against

escaping

steam

and

turn

the

cap

slowly

counter-clockwise

until

the

resistance

of

the

safety

stops

is

felt.

Leave

the

cap

in

this

position

until

all

pressure

is

released.

Press

the

cap

down-

wards

against

the

spring

to

clear

the

safety

stops,

and

continue

turning

until

it

can

be

lifted

off.

6.

Warm-up

Instructions.

As

soon

as

pos-

sible,

get

the

boat

underway

but

at

re-

duced

speed,

until

water

temp.

gauge

indicates

l30-lS0

o

F.

It

necessary,

en-

16

gine

can

be

warmed up

with

the

clutch

in

neutral

at

1000 rpm. Warming up

with

clutch

in

neutral

takes

longer

and

tends

to

overheat

the

transmission,

if

partial

engagement

occurs,

which

can

be

detected

by

propeller

shaft

rotation.

7.

Reverse

Operation.

Always

reduce

en-

gine

to

idle

speed

when

shifting

gears.

However, when

the

transmission

is

en-

gaged,

it

will

carry

full

engine

load.

NOTE:

The

SAO

tran-smission

requires

that,

when

backing

down,

the

shift

lever

must

be

held

in

the

reverse

position,

since

it

has

no

positive

overcenter

locking

mechanism.

STOPPING

ENGINE

1.

Position

shift

lever

in

neutral.

2. Move

throttle

lever

to

idle

position.

3.

Pull

fuel

push-pull

STOP

control

out.

(The

stop

control

functions

by

cutting

off

the

fuel

from

the

fuel

injection

pump.)

NOTE:

Idle

engine

for

a few

minutes

to

dissipate

heat

gradually

before

shutdown.

OPERATING

PRECAUTIONS

1.

Never

run

engine

for

extended

periods

when

excessive

overheating

occurs

as

extensive

internal

damage

can

be

caused.

2.

DO

NOT

put

cold

water

in

an

overheated

engine.

It

can

crack

cylinder

head,

block,

or

manifold.

3.

Keep

intake

silencer

free

from

lint,

etc.

4.

Do

not

run

engine

at

high

RPM

without

clutch

engaged.

5.

Never

Race a

Cold

Engine

as

internal

damage

can

occur

due

to

inadequate

oil

circulation.

6.

Keep

the

engine

and

accessories

clean.

7.

Keep

the

fuel

clean.

Handle

it

with

extreme

care

because

water

and

dirt

in

fuel

cause

more

trouble

and

service

in-

8.

Do

not

allow

fuel

to

run

low,

because

fuel

intake

may

be

uncovered

long

enough

to

allow

air

to

enter

the

system,

resulting

in

lost

-time

re-

quired

for

priming.

9.

Do

not

be

alarmed

if

temperature

gauges

show a

high

reading

following

a

sudden

stop

after

engine

has

been

operating

at

full

load.

This

is

caused

by

the

release

of

residual

heat

from

the

heavy

metal

masses

near

the

combustion

chamber.

Prevention

for

this

is

to

run

engine

at

idle

for

a

short

period

before

stopping

it.

High

temperature

reading

after

a

stop

does

not

neces-

sarily

signal

alarm

against

restarting.

If

there

is

no

functional

difficulty,

temperatures

will

quickly

return

to

normal

when

engine

is

operating.

TEN MUST RULES

IMPORTANT

...

for

your

safety

and

your

engine's

dependability.

ALWAYS

-

1.

Keep

this

Manual handy and

read

it

whenever

in

doubt.

2.

Use

only

filtered

fuel

oil

and

check

lube

oil

level

daily.

3.

Check

cooling

water

temperature

frequently

to

make

sure

it

is

190

0

or

less.

4.

Close

all

drain

cocks

and

refill

with

water

before

starting

out.

5.

Investigate

any

oil

leaks

immediately.

NEVER

-

6.

Race

the

engine

in

neutral.

7.

Run

the

engine

unless

the

gauge shows

proper

oil

pressure.

8.

Break

the

fuel

pump

seals.

9.

Use

cotton

waste

or

fluffy

cloth

for

cleaning

or

store

fuel

in

a

galvanized

container.

10.

Subject

the

engine

to

prolonged

overloading

or

continue

to

run

it

if

black

smoke comes from

the

exhaust.

17

18

YOUR NOTES

MAINTENANCE

PERIODIC

ATTENTION:

After

you

have

taken

delivery

of

your

engine,

it

is

important

that

you

make

the

following

checks

right

after

the

first

fifty

hours

of

its

operation:

FIFTY

HOUR

CHECKOUT

(INITIAL)

Do

the

following:

1.

Retorque

the

cylinder

head

bolts.

2.

Retorque

the

rocker

bracket

nuts

and

adjust

valve

rocker

clearance.

3.

Check

and

adjust,

if

necessary,

the

forward

drum

assembly

and

the

reverse

band

on

manual

SAO

and

SA-l

trans-

missions.

4.

Change

engine

lubricating

oil

and

oil

filter.

5.

Check

for

fuel

and

lubricating

oil

leaks.

Correct

if

necessary.

6.

Check

cooling

system

for

leaks

and

in-

spect

water

level.

7.

Check

for

loose

fittings,

clamps,

connections,

nuts,

bolts,

vee

belt

tensions

etc.

Pay

particular

atten-

tion

to

loose

engine

mount

fittings.

These

could

cause

mis-alignment.

DAILY

CHECKOUT

Do

the

following:

1.

Check

sea

water

strainer,

if

one

has

been

installed.

2.

Check

water

level

in

cooling

system.

3.

Check

lubricating

oil

level

in

sump.

Fill

to

highest

mark

on

dipstick.

4.

Turn

down

grease

cup

on

water

pump,

if

used,

one

full

turn.

5.

Check

lubricating

oil

level

in

trans-

mission.

Fill

to

highest

mark

on

dipstick.

SEASONAL

CHECK-OUT

(MORE

OFTEN

IF

POSSIBLE)

Do

the

following:

1.

Check

generator

or

alternator

"V"

belt

for

tension.

2.

Check

water

level

in

battery.

3.

Cqange

oil

in

sump.

Oil

may

be

sucked

out

of

sump

by

attaching

a

suction

hose

(3/8"

ID)

over

the

out-

side

of

the

oil

sump

pipe,

located

aft

of

the

dipstick.

Figure

1.

See

Note,

4.

Replace

lubricating

oil

filt~r.

Fig.

2.

See

Note,

5.

Fill

sump

with

approximately

4.5

US

quarts

of

diesel

lubricating

oil

to

high

mark

on

dipstick.

Do

not

over

fill.

See

Note

19

FIGURE

1

FIGURE

2

Westerbeke WPDS-20 User manual

Popular Engine manuals by other brands