Accucraft trains D&RGW C-25 2-8-0 COAL FIRED User manual

D&RGW C-25 2-8-0
COAL FIRED
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
ACCUCRAFT TRAINS
33268 CENTRAL AVE
UNION CITY, CA 94587
TEL: [phone]
FAX: [phone]
WWW .ACCUCRAF T.COM

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
2
History of the D&RGW C-25 Class Locomotive
This Baldwin-built locomotive, a 2-8-0 or Consolidation type, was originally numbered #103 of the Crystal River
Railroad, a narrow gauge line located in the Elk Mountains of central Colorado. It was built and delivered in 1903
as construction number 21757 of the Baldwin Locomotive Works, had 33” drivers, 18x20” cylinders, and a
tractive effort just short of 25,000 pounds. It was a standard Baldwin design, and other narrow gauge locos of this
size and type were built for railroads in the Western Hemisphere. The D&RG purchased this locomotive from the
Crystal River in 1916 and numbered it #432. It was renumbered in 1924 to #375. Originally the locomotive was a
class 112, this number reflecting the total weight of the locomotive, but eventually the D&RGW changed the
classification numbers of their locomotives to reflect their tractive effort, and thus the classification of C-25.
Interestingly, for a while the cab of this loco carried “C-25-112” as its classification. The C-25 was affectionately
known as the “Baby Mudhen” because its pulling power was close to that of the K-27 class, those engines being
known as “Mudhens.” When the engine was put into service in 1916, it was the best steamer on the railroad at
that time. Sadly, on June 21, 1949 the one and only C-25 on the D&RGW was scrapped at Alamosa, Colorado.
Introduction to Coal Firing
Firing and running a coal fired locomotive is an entirely different experience from that of a butane fired engine.
Coal firing is a dynamic process that is continuously changing from moment to moment. The variables presented
by temperature, humidity, track conditions, train load, firing technique, distractions and your attention to the firing
process will make every run a new and challenging event. Although many of the elements of running your
locomotive will be familiar to you from running a butane fired locomotive, coal firing introduces many new
elements that require you to be continuously thoughtful and attentive.
Unlike a butane fired locomotive, you cannot set your coal fired C-25 running down the track while you casually
stand by watching it perform or visit with onlookers; it needs your constant attention. Many butane locomotives
will run out of fuel before water, and slowly come to a stop with no harm done. The functioning water level of a
butane locomotive, with its usual single flue, located along the bottom of the boiler, is less critical than that of a
coal fired boiler with a crown sheet. The crown sheet needs to be in constant contact with water to keep from
being permanently damaged. This means you must devote yourself to being ever watchful of the water gauge.
The combustion of coal is also a more intricate process than the burning of butane. Coal firing needs to be
managed in a thoughtful manner; the regular stoking and proper management of the firebox is an absolute
necessity to a successful run. Stoking the firebox, like maintaining water level, cannot be done in a haphazard
manner.
About Your Boiler
A good place to begin the firing process is to have a thorough understanding of your locomotives boiler and how
it behaves. The boiler in your locomotive duplicates a full size boiler in all aspects, including significant areas of
flat surface. Construction includes 8 fire tubes and 1 flue, a water legged firebox, 5 bushings for mounting
various fittings and a pass through for the blower pipe.
The major flat surfaces are the firebox front, sides and top, the boiler front sheet and the flat outside portions of
the boiler wrapper surrounding the firebox. The firebox is surrounded by water legs on 3 sides, the back being
dry. These flat surface water legs are supported against the internal pressures by copper rods or stays tying
them to each other. The top of the firebox, or crown sheet, also basically flat, is supported from collapsing by
vertical plates that connect it to the outer shell, or wrapper. The front of the firebox, or rear flue sheet, and the
front of the boiler, or front flue sheet, are supported against boiler pressure by being connected to each other
with the tubes and flue. The barrel of the boiler, being spherical, is self-supporting within the limits of its design
strength.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
3
Several of these boiler plates are flanged and all are assembled using a high strength, high temperature, silver
bearing brazing compound. To maintain joint strength, those boiler plates exposed to the combustion process,
and more particularly the crown sheet, must be in direct contact with and covered at all times by the water in the
boiler. This means WATER LEVEL IS CRITICAL. To this end, the locomotive is equipped with an axle pump and
hand pump and can also be optionally fitted with an injectororGoodallvalve. It should be noted that injectors
in smaller sizes are notoriously finicky devices, not generally reliable, and should NEVER BE RELIED ON for
critical boiler feed .
The C-25 boiler is designed to function at a working pressure between 60 and 75 pounds per square inch. This
pressure is continuously trying to collapse the crown sheet and inner firebox sides. The water level must be
maintained above a point equivalent to the bottom edge of the blower pass through pipe at all times. The lower
working limit for water level is the top of the lower nut on the water gauge. The installed axle pump is sized to
pump water in excess to the needs of the engine, and given time, will fill the boiler to its maximum capacity.
During those times the locomotive is stopped and the blower is on, makeup water needs to come via the tender
pump.
Maximum water level is not critical, but should not exceed the bottom edge of the top nut of the water gauge.
Over filling the boiler results in the engine priming, or passing water to the cylinders, and can be noticed by a
spray or mist of water coming from the cylinder exhaust or blower stream exiting the smokestack. A more
detailed discussion of maintaining water level will be presented later in these instructions.
Coal Burning Processes
The combustion of coal in a firebox, and using the derived energy for steam production, is not a simple process.
Coal is a complex material and its combustion is intricate. Coal, a mineral compound, contains, depending upon
its specific type and source, various quantities of moisture, hydrocarbon volatile, ash, sulphur and fixed carbon.
Coal needs a significant amount of heat to initiate and maintain combustion as well as a continuous supply of oxy-
gen. Coal combustion takes two avenues. The first avenue takes place at a relatively low temperature and results
in the combustion of the volatile hydrocarbon components. As fresh coal is added to the top of the burning bed of
coal on the grates, the volatile hydrocarbons are gasified and driven off, burning in the space above the coal bed
and producing hot flue gases that transfer their heat to the firebox, tubes and flues by convection, with minimal
radiant energy. The second stage involves the fixed carbon portions of the coal bed situated on the grates.
The fixed carbon in the presence of a significant supply of oxygen burns at a high temperature, becoming incan-
descent in the process. This second process produces considerable amounts of radiant energy as well as ad-
ditional hot flue gases. The sulphur component, which is relatively small, also burns producing a corrosive in the
form of sulphur dioxide which, in the presence of moisture, becomes sulphuric acid. The ash, or non-combustible
portion, composed mostly of clay, remains behind to form clinker, clog grates, drop into the ash pan and be de-
posited in the smoke box.
In small scale locomotive boilers the heating surface apportionment between the fire tubes and the firebox, coupled
with the small diameter of the tubes and their relative short length, generally favors the firebox for absorbing the
energy of combustion. Most of the heat value in coal is contained in the fixed carbon portion, and since the fixed
carbon portion combust with a high level of incandescence, this energy is readily transferred to the boiler radiantly.
This results in the firebox being the major contributor to the steaming capacity of the boiler.
The combustion of both the volatile and the fixed carbon portion takes considerable amounts of oxygen. This
necessitates that the bed of burning coal have a sizeable amount of air passing through it to maintain combustion.
This air is provided by the exhaust nozzle and a separate blower, both located in the smoke box. The nozzle, as
the engine runs, and the blower when it is stationary, reduce the pressure in the smoke box which induces air to be
drawn up through the grates and burning bed of coal, through the tubes and flue, and out the stack.
The main requirement for this to take place, is for the air to have a free and unobstructed passage through the
bed of coal, and that the coal be evenly spread across the grates. Any obstruction to the flow of air or lack of

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
4
forced draft will cause the fire to go out. As well as obstructions, if there are large holes in the coal bed that allow
air to circumvent passage through the burning portions of coal, combustion will be reduced. This is true also with
leaving the firebox door open.
How you fire and run your locomotive needs to take into account how coal burns. The frequency of stoking , the
quantity of coal stoked , how it is spread on the grates, as well as the quality of the coal , will all have considerable
impact on how your locomotive performs . The specifics of coal firing will be covered in detail further on in these
instructions.
Selecting Coal, Water, and Oil
Your selection of coal, water and oil will contribute as much to the success of your coal firing experience as your
firing technique.
Coal
A discussed above, coal is a complex compound and comes in many “flavors.” Coal falls into 4 basic classifica-
tions, anthracite is a hard, shiny coal with a high heat content; in excess of 15,000 BTU per pound, and a carbon
content of 85 to 95%. Next down the scale is bituminous. It is softer, has less carbon, 45 to 85%, has a heat
content of 10,500 to 15, 000 BTUs, and has less sulphur. Following this is sub-bituminous coal which contains
upwards of 50% carbon, has a heat con lent between 8,000 and 13,000 BTU per pound, is softer and dull col-
ored. On the bottom is lignite which is totally unsuitable for our purposes. All of these have other characteristics,
depending upon their impurities and how they were formed millions of years ago, which impact their ability to be
used in the small fireboxes of gauge one locomotives. These characteristics are less dependent upon their basic
classification and more dependent upon the specific mine the coal comes from. Just because it is being used by
some power company in a generating plant, does not mean it is suitable for our small firebox boiler.
Anthracite, bituminous and sub~bituminous coals can all be suitable for our uses. The single most important char-
acteristic for our consideration is their ash content and their ash fusion temperature. Coals with high ash content
and low ash fusion temperatures are prone to clinkering, clogging grates and forming masses that can blanket the
bed of coal. In our small fireboxes this is especially problematic. As mentioned above, our boilers depend upon a
significant transfer of heat radiantly. Anything which reduces radiant transfer, limits steam production greatly. Our
small boilers also have a limited grate size, and anything that inhibits air flow will also inhibit steam production.
Whether you use anthracite, bituminous or sub-bituminous coal, you need to look for a clean burning coal that
has low ash and is not prone to clinkering. The Welsh steam coal available from Coles’ Power Models falls into
this category. Although it burns relatively fast and needs more continuous stoking than other coals, it burns without
much ash, no smoke, and more importantly it does not form clinker. It is also easy to break up into the smaller
size pieces needed to stoke through the firebox door.
Of the 3 or 4 different coals we have tried. Coles’ has been the most successful and easy to use, as well as the
easiest to clean up afterwards.
Water
Your locomotive’s boiler is an assembly of many components that have been joined using a silver brazing
compound. These brazing compounds are atomically different enough from the copper in the boiler plates to be
subject to electrolytic decomposition in the presence of an electrically active fluid. The water used in your boiler
needs to be as pure as possible, and within a relatively narrow range of pH. pH is the measure of the ionic
properties of a liquid material which classify it as an acid or a base. This is measured on a scale from 0 to 14
where 7 is neutral: below 7 is an acid, above 7 is basic. Acidic solutions have an abundance of H+ (hydrogen) ions
while basic solutions are strong in OH (hydroxide ions.) It is the presence of these ions that makes the fluid
electrically conductive. Freshly “STEAM DISTILLED” water will measure approximately 7. and is ionicly neutral, but
with long term exposure to carbon dioxide in the air slowly will become slightly acidic with pH of around 6.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
5
We often think of some natural waters as being very pure; for instance rain water, or “Pure Spring Water.” It is true
they may not have significant dissolved solids in them, but their pH can vary from acceptable to miserable. Just as
we use acids and bases as electrolytes in batteries to pull electrons out of the metal battery plates, the pH of your
water can cause electrolytic effects to take place in your boiler, which can cause the brazed joints to break down
over time.
Distilled water that has been ‘DEIONIZED” is extremely active electrically and should NEVER be used in your
boiler. Often water Will be OZONATED to kill bacteria. Water that has been ozonated is acceptable as long as it
has also been steam distilled.
**** We recommend only the use of STEAM DISTILLED water in your boiler ****
Oil
Since the beginning of the steam age there has been a heated discussion of which oils are best for cylinder
lubrication. The development in recent years of a plethora of synthetic oils has only exacerbated this discussion.
All the major oil companies now produce innumerable synthetics; yet they all still recommend similar, non-
synthetic, oil and tallow blends for the use in saturated steam cylinders. Although these may carry individualized
brand names, they are all a compounded ISO 460 heavy oil for use in steam cylinder environments. They have all
been developed to resist being washed off the metallic surfaces by the action of water and hot steam, and all are
designed to be carried to the necessary lubrication points by being entrained in the stream of steam. The oil
companies also occasionally reference these oils as “ AGAMA 7 Compounded” oils, and they also come in
weights other than ISO ratings of 460.
Oil that meets this specific criteria is available from your Accucraft as well as from the bulk distributors of the
various oil companies.
**** We recommend only the use of the ISO 460 oils ****
Excess oil beyond that necessary to lubricate the valves and cylinders is detrimental to the locomotive.
Unlike a butane fired boiler, your C-25 does not have any holes or drain in the bottom of the smoke box. This
means that excess oil delivery to the cylinders will become mixed with cinder and ash to form a sludge in the
smoke box, besides forming this sludge, oil soaked cinder and ash can be carried out the stack to be deposited
as an abrasive on the running gear.
Accessories You Will Need
What You Need To Obtain
1. Shovel and pick (sku#AP-28200) (provided), Flue Brush (sku#AP-28201) (provided), & Draft Fan
(sku#AP-28202). These can be purchased from Accucraft dealers.
2. Charcoal
Coal needs exposure to heat to initiate combustion. The easiest way to do this is to build your coal fire upon a
strong bed of charcoal embers. Charcoal is easy to ignite, especially when soaked in lamp oil, burns hot and
reduces completely to ash. This makes it an ideal initiator for beginning the firing process. The charcoal you use
needs to be “real wood” charcoal, not briquettes. This can be obtained at most barbeque supply stores as well
as some gourmet cooking stores. It is also available from Lowe’s Home Centers, under the brand name of”
Cowboy Charcoal” in 20 pound bags. This charcoal is made from scrap lumber that includes both soft and hard
woods. The charcoal pieces are fairly brittle, and can be easily broken up into the proper sized pieces using a

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
6
good pocket knife.
3. Lamp Oil
To ensure that the charcoal will ignite readily, soak it in a flammable fluid like kerosene or lamp oil. The better of
the two is lamp oil, and preferably a clear unscented variety.
4. Lubricator Syringe
Useful for removing water and oil from the lubricator in between and after runs.
5. Gondola
To ease the chores of firing and maintaining your locomotive we RECOMMEND you purchase an Accucraft
D&RG Gondola to connect behind the tender. The use of a gondola to carry your coal and fire from will save the
paint on your tender, provide you a larger supply of coal, give you a place to put the shovel and pick and
GREATLY REDUCE THE CHANCE OF COAL DUST CONTAMINATING YOUR WATER SUPPLY.
6. Paint Brush
Ash and the small cinder particles that accumulate on the exterior of your locomotive from running can be easily
brushed off using a 1 1/2 to 2 inch wide bristle paint brush.
7. Vacuum
One of the components of all coal is sulphur. Sulphur burns producing sulphur dioxide, which combines with
moisture in the smoke box to form sulfuric acid. To reduce the corrosive effects of sulfuric acid you should clean
all of the accumu- lated ash and cinders out of the smoke box following every run. This can most easily be
accomplished using a computer vacuum.
8. Solvent Cleaner
Following every 4 to 5 hours running time you will want to more thoroughly clean your locomotive, including the
smoke box. We recommend you accomplish this by washing with “Stoddard” solvent. This product is designed for
parts washing in the aviation and automotive industry. It is an excellent grease and oil remover, has a low
flammability and leaves no oily films or residue, and absolutely will not damage the paint. It is available from your
local Petroleum Bulk Supplier, either under the name of “Stoddard” solvent or as parts washing fluid. Most
automotive machine shops can paint you in the right direction to buy it.
9. Solvent Sprayer
The most convenient way to apply the Stoddard solvent is by using a pressure type garden sprayer. We
recommend a HUDSON brand” Bugwiser Sprayer,” model number 67220. This has a 2 gallon, stainless steel,
canister, which is solvent resistant. These can be purchased from LOWES’ HOME CENTER. One note about this
sprayer and Stoddard Solvent. You will have to occasionally put some oil down the top of the sprayers pump
barrel to lubricate the piston, as the solvent tends to wash away the pump’s lubricant.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
7
Advanced Preparation
Before you begin firing your locomotive, you need to tend to some preparatory items. The first is to insure you
have an adequate supply of properly sized coal. Your firebox door is 3/4 inch tall and 1 1/4 inches wide. The
shovel is 1 inch wide, 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches long. Coal needs to be sized accordingly. Your lumps of coal
should have an upper limit in size of 1/2 X 1/2 X 3/4 of an inch; 3/8 X 3/8 X 3/8 being ideal. Coal that is smaller,
ie. lima bean sized is better. Any pieces smaller than a 1/8 inch cube can also be used, but only after a good bed
of coals is established.
Your charcoal needs to go through this process also. Try for pieces about 3/8 X 3/8 X 3/8 of an inch. As with the
coal we keep the bulk of the cut and broken up charcoal in a separate container. The charcoal is kept dry in this
container, not oil soaked. About a quart of this charcoal is then put into a large coffee can with a tight fitting
plastic lid and soaked in lamp oil. After putting the charcoal into the can, put in about a cup of lamp oil, place the
lid on the can and tumble to expose all of the charcoal to the oil. This coffee can then becomes the container we
fire the locomotive from on startup. We leave the oil in the can, and as we replace charcoal we have used with
fresh charcoal, add oil as needed so that there is always a slight amount of liquid in the bottom of the can.
Firing Your Locomotive
There is included with this set of instructions a “C-25 COAL FIRING CHECK LIST”. This checklist covers the
entire firing process, in abbreviated form, from setting the locomotive out on the track to putting the locomotive in
long term storage.
After assembling all the necessary items, coal, charcoal, water, oils and tools, you need to find a spot to lubricate
the locomotive and tender. Usually a table or other flat surface where you can place a folded towel to protect the
locomotive when you lay it on its side. You need to oil the running gear on both sides, oil the axle boxes, the lead
and trailing truck and the axle pump yoke and eccentric. Also put a drop of oil on the axle pump ram. The
locomotive is then placed on the steam up bay track and the tender axles oiled in a similar fashion.
After placing the tender behind the locomotive on the track, connect the drawbar in its long position. Although you
can run the loco with the drawbar in the short position, it is less convenient to stoke the firebox, there is less
access room to reach the controls and it puts a more acute bend in the tender water lines.
Next connect the tender water lines. The return line slips onto the locomotive stub pipe about 3/16 to a 1/4 of an
inch. The pump feed line screws onto the locomotive fitting. Before adding oil, check that you drained the
condensate after the prior run by using your syringe or opening the drain. An easy tip for adding oil is to again use
your syringe; fill the syringe with oil, insert the tube down below the cross tube and add oil to the proper level. This
keeps oil from spanning across the gap between the lubricator sides and the cross tube and not draining down.
Water can now be added to the tender. Once the tender is full of water, you can clear the pump feed lines of air.
Begin by ensuring that the boiler and gauge glass blow downs. the throttle and the blower valve are all closed.
Open the axle pump bypass valve a half turn or so, and pump the tender pump 10 to 15 strokes. Close the
bypass and pump the tender pump until the water level is 1/2 to 3/4 of the water glass. Leave the bypass closed.
Do not overfill the boiler. The water level will rise as the boiler is heated and comes up to steam pressure. This
can cause the water level in the boiler to be so high that the boiler will” prime” or pass raw water to the cylinders
when you first start the locomotive moving. Water can be released from the boiler as steam pressure builds by
using the gauge glass blow down.
The most convenient way to fire your locomotive is from a gondola full of coal coupled up behind the tender. The
gondola also provides a handy place to keep the fire pick and shovel. Fill the gondola about 2/3 full of coal and
couple it up to the tender. After placing your suction / smokestack fan in a convenient place next to the front of the
loco, fill the firebox with oil soaked charcoal level with the bottom of the door. This takes about 8 to 10 shovel fulls,

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
8
and should be spread out evenly in the firebox, side to side and front to back. Check that the blower, throttle and
axle pump bypass valves are all closed. Place the fan into the stack, light the charcoal, and immediately turn on
the fan and shut the firebox door.
You will now have a few minutes as steam pressure builds to about 10 pounds on the gauge. As soon as the
gauge shows 10 pounds, add 2 shovels of coal, remove the fan and turn on the blower. The blower is much more
effective at providing draft than the fan, and pressure will build very quickly; you should be able to actually see the
gauge climbing. As pressure builds, you will need to turn the blower down slightly. At between 40 and 50 pounds
pressure, add 2 or 3 more shovels of coal and open the cylinder drain cocks (the drain cocks are open in the
down position).
The pressure should, by now, be approaching 70 pounds, and you can place the locomotive in forward gear, turn
the blower down to a light level , but not totally off, open the throttle and proceed to pull out.
Let the locomotive run about 100 to 150 feet, then stop it to check the firebox. If needed, add enough coal to
bring the level up even with the bottom of the door.
Also, now is the time to shut off the cylinder drain cocks, but leave the blower on at a very light level. Be sure to
also check the water level on the gauge. If the water level is lowadd water using the tender pump or Goodall
valve. This can happen because the usage of the blower while building steam pressure was not made back up,
and the short run did not give the axle pump time to fill much. Double check that the bypass is closed, shut off the
blower and you are ready to open the throttle and begin running in earnest.
You will need to keep an eye on the water gauge as the axle pump will begin to bring the level up towards the top
nut. Because the level of the fire in the firebox is constantly changing states, from blanketed with fresh coal to
a roaring fire, it is not practical to try to set the pump bypass to exactly compensate for consumption. When the
level approaches the top nut of the gauge, open the bypass, when it approaches the bottom close the bypass.
You do not need to stop the engine to open or close the bypass, it is easily manipulated on the fly.
After another 300 or so feet of travel, stop the locomotive, crack the blower on, and check the firebox. How often
you need to add coal will depend on several factors. How hard the engine is working, the quality of the coal you
are using and how much coal you added the time before. When you let the fire drop too low, the heavier blanket
of new coal does not have sufficient heat available to readily begin combustion, and pressure will fall. This can
sometimes be avoided by running with the blower, but regular and even firing works best
By now your locomotive should be completely converted over from the startup charcoal and you can begin a
regular rhythm of stoking, checking the water gauge, and occasionally adding water to the tender, Keep an eye
on the pressure gauge also. Proper pressure is dependent upon two things, the amount of coal burning in the fire-
box, and how vigorous it is burning. The amount of coal is controlled by stoking, and the level of combustion by
the amount of draft. These need to be kept in balance for how hard the locomotive is working. The harder it
is working the better the draft. If the safety is continuously popping off you can cool things down a bit by opening
the firebox door for a short period, say 150 feet or so. If you run your locomotive slow with a light load you might
need to crack the blower slightly while it is running.
As your experience increases, you will fall into a rhythm that is natural for you, your engine, the speed you run it
and the load it pulls. You need to be always aware of what is taking place. The needs of the engine must come
first. If you let yourself become distracted, combustion can drop off, water can get low, the tender can run dry and
you can find yourself up the proverbial creek without a paddle. Enjoy your run, but stay on top of it too.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
9
Ending Your Run
Unlike a butane locomotive, you cannot just turn the burner off to finish a run. When it approaches time to quit,
quit stoking, but keep the engine running as the combustion level drops. Adding water will also further cool the
boiler down. Let the locomotive finish cooling down to a temperature that allows handling without discomfort.
When the engine is cool enough to move around, hang the rear truck over the edge of a table and drop the
grates with the unburned coal , ash and occasional clinker. There should not be any hot embers remaining, but on
the off chance there are, it is best to hold an empty coffee can underneath the grate while you drop it. Shake the
grates and ash pan out and use the grate retaining pin to clear any small bits that may be stuck in the spaces of
the grates.
Before replacing the grates be sure to brush down the rear truck, and locomotive frame pieces that may be
littered with ash. Replace the grate, and brush the accumulation of ash off the locomotive and running gear. This
superficial brush down will suffice for a couple of hours between runs, but is not sufficient for overnight or longer
storage.
After Run
Cleaning
When you are finished running your locomotive for the day, and will be returning it to storage, it will need a thor-
ough cleaning, and re-Iubrication. The extent to which you clean it will depend upon how long you have run it and
how long it will remain in storage.
AFTER EVERY RUN
• Remove grate I ash pan
• Place engine on table so that front truck and rear truck are on newspaper or paper towel.
• Brush off rear truck and its swivel linkage.
• Relubricate front and rear truck axles and swivel linkage. Use straight SAC - 40 weight oil.
• Lightly spray running gear with WO-40 and wipe excess off with a paper towel to remove cinder, ash and
ballast dust
• Relubricate entire running gear. Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil.
• Replace grate/ash pan.
In situations where your running time has not exceeded 2 hours, and you will be running the locomotive again in
less than 24 hours, the above cleaning will suffice .
AFTER 3 TO 4 HOURS OF ACCUMULATED RUNNING TIME
• Remove grate/ash pan
• Place engine on table so that front truck and rear truck are on newspaper or paper towel.
Remove smoke box front. Unscrew two 1.6mm hex bolt on either sides of the smoke box.
• Use the flue brush to thoroughly brush out the tubes and flue, only when completely cooled down.
• Use computer vacuum to remove accumulated cinders from smoke box.
• Use toothbrush to thoroughly brush inside of smoke box and its pipe work; vacuum again.
With rear truck overhanging table edge, use toothbrush to brush out the firebox sides, front and back.
Brush off rear truck and its swivel linkage.
• Using “Stoddard” solvent in a sprayer, thoroughly wash out smoke box, smoke box front, engine, running
gear, and firebox.
• Wipe off residue with paper towels and let engine air dry for a while .
• Lightly spray running gear only, with WD-40 and wipe excess off with a paper towel.
• Reassemble smoke box, replace grate/ash pan .
• Re-lubricate entire engine. Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil.
• After re-Iubricating, wipe the engine and tender with a paper towel dampened with Lemon Pledge, or
similar furniture polish.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
10
The above level of cleaning should be performed after all runs of more than 3 hours, or when accumulated
running time exceeds 3 hours,
Placing Your Locomotive In Storage
Short Term Storage •••••• More Than 24 Hours, Less Than 60 Days
• Follow the steps for cleaning the engine listed above in “AFTER 3 TO 4 HOURS OF RUNNING.”
• If the engine will be fired again within 60 days, you may leave the boiler with water at or above the bottom nut
on the gauge glass.
• Store engine and tender in a dry environment. Do not wrap in plastic; condensation can form with temperature
changes and the moisture cannot evaporate.
Long Term Storage •••••••• More Than 60 Days
• Follow the steps for cleaning the engine listed above in “AFTER 3 TO 4 HOURS OF RUNNING.”
• Drain boiler
Place a length of large model airplane fuel line on both the gauge glass and boiler blow down pipes.
Unscrew Goodall Valve from boiler.
Open both boiler and gauge glass blow downs and let boiler drain out. When empty, close valves and
replace Goodall Valve.
• Store engine and tender in a dry environment. Do not wrap in plastic; condensation can form with
temperature changes and the moisture cannot evaporate.
Maintaining your CoaI Fired C-25
The amount of maintenance your locomotive needs will be directly related to how well you lubricate, clean and
care for it. It should need relatively little maintenance, other than keeping the pipe work tight, and occasionally
adjusting the axle pump gland. All of this maintenance can be done with a nominal selection of wrenches.
Tools You Will Need
The boiler and its fittings use standard inch sized wrenches. You will also need an allen wrench that
accommodates the 2 mm stainless steel socket headed cap screws, although we provide one for your use,
replacements can also be purchased at hardware stores.
The wrench set best suited for maintaining your locomotive boiler and piping is:
Craftsman 10 pc. Wrench Set, Standard Combination Ignition Sears item #00942319000 Mfr. model #42319

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
11
C-25 COAL FIRING CHECK LIST
AND QUICK REFERENCE
1. Unpack Tender
Lubricate Tender
Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil.
Journals and bolsters
Place Tender on Track
2. Unpack Locomotive
Lubricate Locomotive
Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil.
Axle Pump
Truck Swivel Points
Left Side
Trucks and Driver Axles
Side Rods and Connecting Rod Crank Pin
Cross Head and Connecting Rod Pin
Valve Gear and Valve Guide
Right Side
Trucks and Driver Axles
Side Rods and Connecting Rod Crank Pin
Cross Head and Connecting Rod Pin
Valve Gear and Valve Guide
Reverse Rod
Check That Grates are Clean and Installed
3. Place Locomotive on Track and Prep
Check That Smoke box is Clean
Close Door
Drain and fill Lubricator as needed.
Couple to Tender
Draw Bar
Bypass Return
Pump Feed
Fill Tender Tank
Approximately 2 Quarts of Water
*** USE ONLY DISTILLED WATER - DO NOT USE WATER THAT HAS BEEN DEIONIZED. ***
Water that has been OZONATED or distilled by reverse osmosis is acceptable, but it is best to use water
that has been Steam Distilled without further processing.
Fill Boiler• If Needed
Water Level 1/2 to 3/4 of water gauge
Purge Air from Pumps
Open Bypass Valve and Pump Tender Pump 15 Strokes.
Close Bypass Valve and Pump Tender Pump 5 Strokes .
LEAVE BYPASS CLOSED

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
12
Close Blower Valve
4. Prepare Coal Supply
Fill Firing Car with Coal
Shovel
Rake / Pick
5. Begin Firing Process
Place Suction Fan in Smokestack
Leave Switch Off
Stoke Firebox with Charcoal Soaked in Lamp Oil.
Fill level with bottom of firebox door.
Light Charcoal
Simultaneously Turn On Fan.
Close firebox Door.
When Steam Pressure Reaches 10 Ibs. Turn Off and Remove Fan.
Turn On Blower.
Add 2 to 3 Scoops of Coal.
When pressure reaches 30 Lbs, add coal. Fill level with bottom of Door. Use pick to spread the coal
evenly throughout firebox. Reduce blower slightly to compensate for increased pressure.
When Pressure Reaches 70 Lbs. Start Engine
Check Coal Level• Add level with bottom of door if needed.
Open Cylinder Drains.
Check that Bypass Valve is Closed.
Place Johnson Bar in Forward.
Open Throttle 112 to 3/4 Turn.
Assist Locomotive if needed.
After traveling 15 to 20 feel close cylinder drains and adjust throttle.
Throttle opening approximately 1/4 turn.
After traveling approximately 100 feet add coal until level with bottom of firebox door.
6. Continuous Running Procedures
WATER
Closely Monitor Water Level.
If level is Above, At or Close to the Top of Glass, OPEN BYPASS VALVE.
If level is at or approaching bottom nut. CLOSE BYPASS
VALVE. IF WATER IS BELOW WATER GAUGE NUT
IMMEDIATELY STOP LOCOMOTIVE MAKE SURE BLOWER IS OFF
OPEN FIREBOX DOOR
USE TENDER PUMP TO ADD WATER TO BRING WATER LEVEL UP.
NOTE: Goodall Valve and pump bottle can also be used to add water.
When water level is restored turn on blower, close door and commence running locomotive.
COAL
Approximately every 4 to 5 minutes when using Welsh Coal from Coles’, check condition of fire.
Coal from Coles’ burns fairly fast. Other coat may burn slower.
A strong bed of embers needs to be maintained, and coal should be added as necessary.
The intensity of the fire can be watched through the 2 holes in the door.
Adjusting the Fire.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
13
Pressure dropping below 55 Ibs, turn on the blower valve.
Safety continuously blowing off, close blower valve, if open, and open firebox door.
When running very slowly with light load it may be necessary to crack blower valve.
I Left Fire Die Down Too Low.
Add 1 shovel of coal, turn on blower - wait for fire to build.
As fire builds, slowly add more shovels of coal to renew bed of embers.
The fire went out.
If the dead bed of coal Is not too deep, add several scoops of charcoal. Place fan in stack, relight
charcoal, turn fan on.
As fire builds, add Coal.
When pressure reaches 10 to 15 Ibs, remove fan and turn on blower.
If heavy bed of coal, dump grates and start over from scratch with charcoal.
You should be able to reuse the unburned coal that was dumped.
7. Ending Your Run
Cease adding coal and let the fire burn out while the engine continues to run.
When pressure drops to about 45 lbs. Run engine onto cooling track.
Close throttle, close lubricator valve, close blower valve. Open firebox door. Open gauge glass drain for a few
moments to flush out glass, close drain.
Water level may be left at or slightly above the red line during short term storage
As soon as fire is totally out, no visible embers, open blower to release boiler pressure, disconnect lender
pump feed and bypass return line.
When engine is cool, close blower valve.
Brush cinders from engine and tender with soft 1 1/2 inch paint brush. Drain all water from tender by turning
upside down.
Place engine so that rear truck overhangs a table edge or track decking.
With wastebasket or open ground under overhanging portion of engine, pull grate / ash pan pin, remove and
empty .
Brush off any unburned coal. ash and cinders from rear truck and its swivel linkage. ( Old toothbrush works
wen. ) Brush off grate / ash pan and replace on engine.
Drain water from lubricator and refill level with the bottom of cross the tube. Consumption should average
about 1 to 1 and 1/2 cc per hour of running time.
8. After Run Servicing
AFTER EACH RUN
Remove grate / ash pan
Place engine on table so that front truck and rear truck are on newspaper or paper towel.
With rear truck overhanging table edge, use toothbrush to brush out firebox sides, front and back.
Brush off rear truck and its swivel linkage.
Re-Iubricate front and rear truck axles and swivel linkage. Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil. Lightly
spray running gear with WD-40 and wipe excess off with a paper towel. Re-Iubricate entire running
gear. Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil.
Replace grate/ash pan
AFTER 3 TO 4 HOURS OF RUNNING
Remove grate I ash pan

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
14
Place engine on table so that front truck and rear truck are on newspaper or paper towel. Remove
smoke box front. Two 1.6mm hex bolts at either side of smoke box.
Use the flue brush to thoroughly brush out the lubes and flue.
Use computer vacuum to remove accumulated cinders from Smoke box.
Use toothbrush to thoroughly brush inside of smoke box and its pipe work; vacuum again . With rear
truck overhanging table edge, use toothbrush to brush out firebox sides, front and back.
Brush off rear truck and its swivel linkage.
Using “Stoddard” solvent in a sprayer, thoroughly wash out smoke box, smoke box front, engine and
running gear, and firebox.
Wipe off residue with paper towels and let engine air dry for a while.
Lightly spray running gear with WD-40 and wipe excess off with a paper towel. Reassemble smoke
box, replace grate / ash pan .
Re-lubricate entire engine. Use straight SAE - 40 weight oil.
After re-lubricating, wipe the engine and tender with a paper towel dampened with Lemon Pledge, or
similar furniture polish.
9. Short Term Storage
Follow the steps for cleaning the engine listed above in “AFTER 3 TO 4 HOURS OF RUNNING.”
If the engine will be fired again within 60 days, you may leave the boiler with water at or above the bottom
nut on the gauge glass.
Store engine and tender in a dry environment. Do not wrap in plastic; condensation can form with
temperature changes and the moisture cannot evaporate.
10. Long Term Storage
Follow the steps for cleaning the engine listed above in “AFTER 3 TO 4 HOURS OF RUNNING.”
Drain boiler
Place a length of large model airplane fuel line on both the gauge glass and boiler blow down pipes.
Unscrew Goodall Valve from boiler.
Open both boiler and gauge glass blow downs and lei baiter drain out. When empty. close valves
and replace Goodall Valve.
Store engine and tender in a dry environment. Do not wrap in plastic; condensation can form with
temperature changes and the moisture cannot evaporate.

D&RGW C
-
25
2
-
8
-
0
COAL
FIRED MANUAL
15
ACCUCRAFT C-25
Control Layout
Control layout is shown below with the cab removed to provide clarity. All controls are readily accessible from the
rear of the cab with the tender connected, and the Throttle, Blower Valve and Axle Pump Bypass Valves all
project outside of the cab within easy reach.
The Firebox Door is easily opened using the corner of the shovel or the hook end of the Fire Pick. The door has
two small air holes in it that allow the operator to see the intensity of the fire.
The water gauge and pressure gauge are easily visible through the left side window.