Aquasafe Aquarium II Dual R.O./D.I. System User manual

Aquarium II Dual R.O./D.I. System Aquarium II Dual R.O./D.I. System COMBO
Installation Instructions for:
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Installation Instructions Pre-amble.
This Aquasafe Reverse Osmosis System has been specically
designed as a DIY (Do It Yourself) unit for easy installation and
maintenace purposes.You will insure a successful installation as
well as reliable operation by carefully reading this manual and
following its operational guidelines.
Your system requires a minimum of 50psi inlet water pressure.
City and municipality water utilities are mandated to provide a
minimum of 50psi however sometimes this is not what results.
If you are on a well system or on city/municipal water supply and
have less than 50psi we highly recommend a fully automatic
booster pump which is found on our websites general parts
and accessories page. We also highly recommend a booster
pump if your water is extremely turbid with ppm counts beyond
600ppm.
The installation instructions that follow are extremely detailed.
if a leak is experienced during installation, please see the Leak
Prevention Section on page 18.
ATTENTION: It is extremely important to change the
lters of your system in order to ensure ultra pure water
is being produced for your family and your aquatic pets,
(which is the whole point to your system) and also to
prevent premature fouling of the TFC Filmtec Reverse
Osmosis Membrane of your system. After your installation is
complete, please read over the Filter Change Schedule section
(page 19) and remember to mark on your calendar when your
systems lter changes need to be conducted. Filter changes on
Aquasafe’s Reverse Osmosis Systems are both inexpensive and
very easily accomplished.

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1.0 Relax, take your time. You will find this process easy and straight forward.
municipal or
well water
(feed water)
Aqua-safe
exclusive E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
waste water drain
5, 6 & 7th Stages
De-Ionization (DI)
Cartridge for
super clean water
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4 way Auto
Shut-o
Valve (ASV)
yellow tubing
red tubing
blue
tubing
white
tubing
red
tubing
manual
shut-o
valve
Pure water outlet
to aquarium
4th Stage
Membrane
Housing
1st Stage: 5 Micron Sediment
2nd Stage: 5 Micron Granular Activated
Carbon for chemicals
3rd Stage: 1 Micron Coconut Carbon Block for chemicals
Aquarium Dual System - Front View
Pure water outlet
to faucet, icemaker etc.
8th Stage
Final Polishing Filter
for taste
Reservoir Tank
Float Valve
automatically
tops up
Sump Tank
SUMP TANK
Manual
Shut O
Valve
3
Pre
Filters
waste water drain
4th Stage
Membrane
Housing
Aqua-safe
exclusive E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
5 & 6th Stages
De-Ionization (DI)
Cartridge for
super clean water
Back View
of membrane housing
Simply follow the step by step instructions below. Please
do not make the mistake of skipping a step.
FOR REFERENCE PURPOSE ONLY: Directly below is a
schematic showing the positioning of all tubing in a fully
set up system. Please read the instructions step by step.
The install is straight forward but reading through each
step is crucial to completing your install properly in the
least amount of time possible.
The installation should take 60 - 90 minutes and when all
is set up you will have ultra pure water for the health and
enjoyment of your family & aquatic pets.
Did you know? Reverse Osmosis literally is the most
powerful water ltration method known to man.
¬Congratulations, you have just taken a huge step
towards better overall health of your family and your
aquatic pets and a bonus of cost savings and conve-
nience to you by producing your RO/DI water at home.
Contents
Installation Instructions for Aquarium II Dual Reverse Osmosis System & COMBO
1.0 Relax, take your time. You will nd this process easy and straight forward. .......................................1
2.0 Take everything out of the box .................................................................................2
3.0 Remove the protective plastic from the prelters................................................................2
4.0 Inserting the R.O. Membrane ...................................................................................3
4.1 Inserting the pre-lter elbow adaptors .....................................................................3
5.0 Preparing the Feed Water to your system .......................................................................3
5.1 Special note about braided wire plumbing .................................................................4
5.2 Installing the Needle Piecing Saddle Clamp to the cold water line. ..........................................4
5.3 Connecting the feed water line to your system..............................................................4
5.4 Piercing the cold water line ................................................................................5
5.5 Flushing of the Pre-lters ..................................................................................5
6.0 R.O. Membrane feed water line hook-up (pre-lter to R.O. Membrane) ...........................................6
7.0 Setting the Flow Restriction Ratios of your System...............................................................7
8.0 Installing the rst D.I. Resin Canister ............................................................................9
9.0 Installing the second and third D.I. Resin Canisters ..............................................................9
10.0 Installing the Final Polishing Filter ............................................................................10
11.0 Prepare the R.O. Water Holding Tank..........................................................................11
12.0 Clear the Decks...............................................................................................12
13.0 Preparing the Discharge Water Saddle Clamp. ................................................................12
14.0 Installing the Faucet..........................................................................................13
15.0 Connecting auto top-up Float Valve...........................................................................14
Extra information for the Aquarium II Dual COMBO.................................................................16
Where do I install the PSI Meter from my“COMBO” System?....................................................16
How do I use the TDS Meter from my “COMBO”System? .......................................................17
How do I store my 24oz bag of extra D.I Resin Beads?..........................................................17
How do I store my extra case of 21 (6 changes) pre-lters and post-lters? .....................................17
Leak Prevention Page ......................................................18
Threaded Fittings ............................................................................................18
Pre-Filter Canister Housing ...................................................................................18
DI Resin Canister .............................................................................................18
Aquarium II Dual System Filter Change Schedule ..................................19
Stage 1,2 & 3 Pre-Filters – When to conduct a lter change. .........................................................19
Stage 4 – When should I change the Reverse Osmosis Membrane?..................................................20
Testing to see if your R.O. Membrane needs replacing. .........................................................20
Are you unsure when you last replaced your R.O. Membrane?..................................................21
Stage 5, 6 & 7 – When should I change the resin in the D.I. Resin Canisters? .........................................21
Stage 8 – When should I change the Final Polishing Filter? .........................................................21
Aquarium II Dual System Filter Change Instructions.................................22
Pre-Filters – How to conduct a lter change. .......................................................................22
R.O. Membrane – How to change the R.O. Membrane of your system. ..............................................23
D.I. Resin Canisters - How to change the D.I. Resin Beads............................................................25
Final Polishing Filter - How to change the Final Polishing Filter......................................................26
Water Systems & Parts Warranty Information .....................................27

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If need be you can use a pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool to grip the white cylinder pro-
truding from the base of the RO Membrane to gain the leverage needed to push the membrane
entirely into its proper position.
4.0 Inserting the R.O. Membrane
The R.O. Membrane is shipped sealed for
freshness. Remove the R.O. Membrane
from its sealed plastic bag and insert the
membrane rmly into the R.O. Housing
(see Fig 4). It can only go in one way, the
end with the two small o-rings is to be
inserted rst.
Please Note: It is extremely important
the two small black “O”rings on the tip
of the membrane seal tightly into place
inside the membrane housing. Please
make sure to insert the membrane as
rmly as possible into the membrane
housing.
When you are certain the Reverse Osmosis
Membrane is rmly in place screw the R.O.
Membrane housing cap back into its place (Fig
4) and then tighten with reasonable force using
the small canister wrench from the Large Parts
Bag.
4.1 Inserting the pre-filter elbow adaptors
Using two of the elbow adaptors from the Small
Parts Bag, screw one of them into the“INLET”
(left) side of the three pre-lters (Fig. 5) and the
other into the“OUTLET” (right) side of the three
pre-lters (Fig 5).
S Please note: Apply 4-7 wraps of Teon
tape, found in the Large Parts Bag, on each of
the elbow adaptors throughout this installation
to prevent any possible leaks.
5.0 Preparing the Feed Water to your system
Found under your sink are the water supply shut o valves to your hot and cold water lines. You will
need to SHUT OFF the cold water valve. Run the hot water for 30 seconds and then feel which line un-
der your sink is warm. SHUT OFF the opposite water line – since that will be the cold water line. After
this valve is o, turn on your sink’s cold water tap to make sure there is NO cold water owing from
your kitchen sink faucet. If you shut the valve o correctly, there should be no cold water owing.
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Insert elbows into the inlet and outlet
ports on either end of the prelter
housings
“water
inlet”
side
“water
outlet”
side
Figure 5
Screw elbow
adaptors into inlet
and outlet of the
pre-filter housings
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Insert blue RO Membrane
into housing
Screw cap
on housing
1
2
Membrane housing
blue RO Membrane
Cap
Figure 4
Inserting the R.O.
Membrane in to
its housing
TIP
2.0 Take everything out of the box
Examine the contents of the Large and Small Parts Bag against the diagrams below. If any pieces are
missing, check the box, sometimes the pieces can fall out of their bags during the system’s journey to
you. Note that there is an extra length of 30’of blue tubing (for running a line to your aquarium sump
tank) plus a oat valve not packed in either of the Parts Bags.
3.0 Remove the protective plastic from the prefilters
Inside each of the three prelter canisters you will nd a prelter with protective plastic for quality as-
surance purposes. Paying close attention to how the lter is sitting inside the prelter housing, remove
the plastic and then reinsert the prelter the same way the prelter was taken out. Do this one at a
time. If by chance you loose track of which lter goes into which prelter canister, the SED (sedimen-
tary lter) is stage one, the GAC (granular activated carbon lter) is stage two and the CCB (coconut
carbon block lter) is stage three. See pictures below of the three prelters. The GAC is the only one
of the three prelters that only goes in one way. The GAC must be placed with the gasket up and the
plastic mesh down.
With the prelters inside each prelter canister, carefully screw the canisters into place. Try to keep the
prelters centered as much as possible during this process. Now, using the large canister wrench from
the Large Parts Bag, tighten each of the prelters with reasonable force in order to seal the lters into
place.
1
32 8
7
6
4
5
1 3
2
8
7
6
4
5
1
3
2 8
7
6
4
5
1 32 8
7
6
4
5
1 32
8
7
6
4
5
Figure 1
Small Parts Bag
Figure 2
Large Parts Bag
Figure 3
The three
pre-filters
3. 3X 4 inch blue tubing;
4. 3 inch red tubing
4. 8X canister clips
5. straight male adaptor
6. T adaptor
7. 3 way T adaptor
8. 8X elbow adaptors
5. drain saddle
clamp
6. teflon tape
7. blue tubing
1. 2X manual
shut off valve 2. tank top
valve
1. needle piercing
saddle clamp
2. small canister
wrench
3. large canister
wrench
1
2
3
6
7
4
5
Sedimentary Filter (SED) Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Coconut Carbon Block (CCB)

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SPlease make sure to FIRMLY push the tubing into the various ttings throughout this installation.
Now insert the needle piecing saddle clamp’s red tubing into the other side of the Manual Shut O
valve completing the feed water line pathway to your ltration system.
5.4 Piercing the cold water line
Ensuring the needle piecing saddle clamp is rmly in place, screw down the needle of the saddle
clamp using the horizontal bar on top of the clamp.
Note: You will feel resistance when the needle is piercing the cold water line, so pay attention to the
amount of resistance experienced. This resistance will stop when you have successfully pierced the
cold water line. CAUTION: Do not screw in the needle valve to its maximum depth as you then risk
piercing the opposite side of your cold water line.
After the cold water line has been pierced, turn the horizontal bar on the top of the clamp counter
clockwise (left) until it becomes snug. This retracts the piercing needle creating a path for feed water
to ow into the red tubing – supplying your system with its feed water.
PLEASE NOTE: Do not turn your home’s emergency cold water shut o back to its ON position yet!
5.5 Flushing of the Pre-filters
Found in your Large Parts
Bag is a coiled length of blue
tubing. Uncoil the tubing
and insert one end into
the “OUTPUT” elbow (right
side) of the three pre-lters
and place the other end of
the blue tubing into your
kitchen sink. (Fig 9)
This will allow for the water to ow through the three pre-lters and then into your kitchen sink, ush-
ing out any and all loose particulates and carbon dust thereby preventing these initial loose particu-
lates from reaching the 4th stage (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) ensuring the maximum life span of the
Reverse Osmosis Membrane.
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blue tubing
manual
shut o
valve
Figure 9
Flushing the
pre-filters
Figure 8
Complete the
feed water
pathway to your
system by
following the
diagram
Insert 4 inch piece of
red tubing into elbow
on “water inlet” side of
pre-lter housing
1
Attach shut
o valve to
red tubing
2Attach the
long red
tubing to other
side of shut
o valve
3
red tubing
red tubing
Manual shut
o valve
Cap
elbow
“water inlet”
(left) side
(1st prelter
housing)
red tubing
leads to needle
piercing saddle
clamp which
is attached to
your home’s
cold water line
Side
view
5.1 Special note about braided wire plumbing
Please Note: DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO INSTALL THE NEEDLE PIERCING
SADDLE CLAMP TO BRAIDED WIRE
PLUMBING (Fig. 6).
You can install the needle piercing saddle clamp to
all other forms of cold water lines found under the
common sink, just not the kind of plumbing de-
picted in Fig 6. The braided plumbing in Fig 6 is too
soft a material and will therefore not allow for the
proper seal needed. The inside of braided plumbing lines may vary and therefore may look dierently
from this example. Don’t let this confuse you. If the plumbing line is braided, DO NOT attempt to install
the feed water needed piercing valve to it. If you have this kind of plumbing there is usually a piece of
copper pipe that is located directly under your kitchen sink’s faucet assembly which you can mount to
OR see our 3/8” x 3/8”x 1/4”plumbing adaptor on our website.
5.2 Installing the Needle Piecing Saddle Clamp to the cold water line.
Rotate the horizontal turning bar of the needle piercing valve to the left (counter clockwise) as you
do not want to pierce your cold water line at this stage. Make sure the needle is retracted all the way.
Next, clamp your cold water line TIGHTLY using the needle piercing saddle clamp which can be found
in your Large Parts Bag. (Fig. 7) You will need a Phillips screwdriver and small pair or pliers for this step.
Be sure to install above your
sink’s shut o valve.
DO NOT ATTACH TO THE HOT
WATER PIPE—AS HOT WATER
WILL DAMAGE THE FILTERS
WITHIN YOUR SYSTEM.
DO NOT PIERCE THE COLD
WATER LINE AT THIS
STAGE !
5.3 Connecting the feed water line to your system.
Next, take the 2-4 Inch piece of red tube from the Small Parts Bag and insert it into the elbow on the
“INLET” (left) side of the pre-lters (Fig. 8 - next page), then take the manual shut o valve, also found
in the Small Parts Bag, and attach it to the other end of the red tube (Fig. 8 - next page).
Figure 6
Braided undersink
plumbing. DO
NOT attempt to
Install onto this
kind of plumbing.
Figure 7
Needle piercing
valve in place
on home’s cold
water line.
Corrugated nylon tube
Braided wire plumbing
h
o
m
e
’
s
c
o
l
d
w
a
t
e
r
l
i
n
e
t
o
f
a
u
c
e
t
home cold water shut o
red tubing
horizontal turning bar
Needle piercing
saddle clamp
To more easily insert the tubing into the various ttings of your system it
is helpful to remove the blue“C” clip from around the collet and then in-
sert the tubing. After the tubing has been inserted into place, pull lightly
on the tubing in order to make room for the blue“C” clip and then place
the blue “C”clip back into its original position. The blue “C”clip holds the
collet in its proper position while the system is in operation.
TIP blue
‘C’ Clip
collet
WARNING

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7.0 Setting the Flow Restriction Ratios of your System.
Using the same blue tubing used to ush the pre-lters, insert one end of the blue tubing into the E–Z
Flush Flow Restrictor (Fig 12). After you have inserted the blue tubing into the E–Z Flush Flow Restric-
tor, insert the other end of the blue tubing into your kitchen sink. The water that will ow through
your E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor is referred to as“BRINE”water and will discharge into your drain washing
away the harmful particulates removed by the R.O Membrane.
Next, get a bowl or a bucket and place it under the short piece of blue tubing that is coming out of the
auto shut-o valve (ASV). The water that will ow out of the short piece of blue tubing that is com-
ing out of the auto shut-o valve (ASV) is the puried water produced by the R.O. Membrane and is
referred to as“PERMEATE” water.
Now, turn the dial on top of the E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor clockwise (Right), entirely closing the valve
of the E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor and then turn the Manual Shut-O Valve (Fig.12) found on the feed
water supply line of your system to its“ON” Position. Within a moment PERMEATE water will begin to
ow out of the short blue piece of tubing coming out of the Auto Shut O Valve (ASV), at the rate of a
very fast drip to a slow trickle. Air inside the R.O. Membrane will be forced out causing the fast drip or
slow trickle to sputter with the air escaping. Wait 2-3 minutes for the air to fully purge so that a steady
output is achieved from the R.O. Membrane.
Next, carefully open the dial on-top of the E-Z ush Flow restrictor counter clockwise (left) VERY SLOW-
LY until the amount of BRINE water owing through the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor is owing THREE
TIMES FASTER than that of the PERMEATE water ow coming out of the RO Membrane. In this way
you achieve a 3:1 ratio where 3 parts is BRINE water and 1 part is PERMEATE water. (You can do this by
judging the ow visually or see the note below for how to do a timed measurement.)
When you are condent that you have properly set the ow ratios as explained above, locate the
“marker sleeve” which is found directly under the top dial of E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor. Screw this
marker sleeve down the threads of the shaft of the dial so that it is ush with the main body of the E–Z
Flush Flow Restrictor. This will serve as an exacting marker to the amount of ow restriction you have
set. Now turn the Manual Shut-O Valve back to its (OFF) position and remove the blue tubing from
the E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor.
4 way auto
shut-o valve
(ASV)
Connect long blue tubing
to E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor
and put other end in sink.
‘BRINE’ water rejected
by R.O. membrane
NOTE: Back View - hanging
bracket not shown for clarity
1
2Put a bowl or bucket under the short piece of blue
tubing coming out of the ASV to catch the‘PERMEATE’
water (cleaned by the R.O. Membrane)
E-Z Flush Flow
Restrictor
Close the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor and
turn the Manual Shut-O Valve on
blue tubing
Manual
Shut-O Valve
to water supply
3
Figure 12
Preparing to set
up the E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
You can now turn your home’s emergency cold water shut o valve back to its“ON” position. Please
note: By turning the cold water shut o valve back to its “ON” position you are allowing for the ow of
cold water to the system. The system’s three pre-lters will then ll with water which will come out of
the blue tube that is placed in your kitchen sink.
Allow the water to run through your system for 20 minutes to ensure proper ushing of the three pre-
lters. After the 20 minute pre-lter ush, turn the manual shut o valve, found on the feed water line
(see Fig 9), 90 degrees to the tubing as this will stop the ow of water to your system.
Next, following the diagram below, remove the blue tubing inserted into the “OUTPUT” (Right Side) of
the prelters that you just used to ush the three prelters.
To remove tubing from any point on
your system simply follow this dia-
gram (Fig. 10) You can easily remove
the tubing from any tting on your
system by removing the blue“C” clip
which will expose the “collet”. Then
simply push in the collet so that it is
ush with the tting and then pull
out the tubing.
Please note: In the future, be sure
to de-pressurize your system before removing tubing from any tting on your system. To de-pressurize
your system you simply need to turn the manual shut o valve, found on the feed water line, to its 90
degree (OFF) position, then turn your tank top valve, found on top of the water holding tank (not yet
installed at this point), to the 90 degree (OFF) position and then press down on your faucet. De-pres-
surizing your system is extremely easy and takes just seconds.
6.0 R.O. Membrane feed water line hook-up (pre-filter to R.O. Membrane)
Take the short white tube connected to the“IN”side of the 4 way auto shut-o valve (ASV) on the top
of the unit and insert it into the elbow adaptor on the “OUTPUT” (right side) of the pre-lters. (Fig. 11)
Remember to insert the tubing rmly. Next, take the short white line connected to the “OUT” side of
the 4 way auto shut-o valve (ASV) on the top of the unit and insert it into the elbow adaptor on the
cap of the R.O. Membrane housing (Fig 11). These two white tubes complete the connection between
the pre-lters and the R.O. Membrane.
Figure 10
How to
disconnect tubing
using the ‘quick-
release’ collet
Figure 11
Connect the short
white water lines
attached to the
auto shut-off
valve
4 way auto
shut-o valve
(ASV)
yellow tubing
(comes pre-connected
to ow restrictor)
Manual
Shut-O Valve
in OFF position
blue tubing (comes pre-connected)
Connect
short white
tube to elbow
on OUTPUT side
of pre-lters
Connect short white
tube to elbow on
R.O. Membrane
housing cap
NOTE: Back View - hanging
bracket not shown for clarity
1
2

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8.0 Installing the first D.I. Resin Canister
Push two canister clips (found in the Large Parts Bag) onto the R.O. Membrane housing with the wid-
est end of the clips down (Fig. 14). Attach one D.I. Canister to the canister clips by pushing the canister
down onto the clips. Ensure the blue end caps of the D.I. Resin Canister are screwed on tightly before
doing this. The arrow on the D.I. Canister depicts the direction of ow of water through the canister.
Screw in an elbow adaptor to both ends of the D.I. Canister (step 1, Fig. 15). Remember to use teon
tape (4 to 7 wraps) on the threads of the adaptors throughout the installation as a preventative
measure against potential leaks.
Next, take the short blue hose connected to the “OUT” side of the 4 way Auto Shut-O Valve (ASV) and
push it into the elbow adaptor on the left side of the D.I. Canister (step 2, Fig 15).
9.0 Installing the second and third D.I. Resin Canisters
Push two of the remaining eight Canister Clips onto the R.O. housing. Then push another D.I Canister
into its place. Now screw an elbow into each end of this DI Resin canister and then connect the two D.I
Canisters with a 4 inch piece of blue hose from the small parts bag. The schematic on page 1 or Fig. 17
shows how these canisters all connect. Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of Teon tape.
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Push 2 canister clips onto
the R.O. Membrane housing
Push the D.I Canister down onto the canister clips.
Ensure the blue end caps of the D.I Resin Canister
are screwed on tightly before doing this.
12
Figure 14
Attaching the
D.I. Resin
Canister
Figure 15
Connecting the
blue water line
(Permeate) into
the D.I. Resin
Canister
12
Insert elbows into the holes on
either end of the D.I. Canister
Connect the short blue Permeate water line coming
out of the ASV to the elbow adaptor on the left side
(as viewed from the front) of the D.I. Canister
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4 way auto
shut-o valve
(ASV)
NOTE:
Back View -
hanging
bracket
not shown
for clarity
PLEASE NOTE: The 3:1 ratio explained on
the previous page can easily be achieved
by visually judging the rate of the BRINE /
PERMEATE ows. However if you want to
achieve exacting ratios between brine and
permeate water you can simply time how
long it takes to ll a certain volume such as a
measuring cup or the like (Fig 13). When do-
ing this “timed measurement” the permeate
water should take three times as long to ll
the same volume over that of the brine water
(3:1 Ratio). We do not recommend anything
over a 1:1 ratio as it is extremely important for the R.O. Membrane to have adequate BRINE ow to be
able to ush away the harmful particulates it is removing while ltering the water. A setting near to
or at 1:1 ratio is only recommended if you are in a desert environment and need to conserve as much
water as possible or if you are charged large sums of money per gallon from your water utility. A RATIO
BEYOND 1:1 IS VERY LIKELY TO DAMAGE THE R.O. MEMBRANE. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE MORE
BRINE WATER FLOW THEN PERMEATE WATER FLOW.
Figure 13
Timing flow rates
to set up the
E-Z Flush Flow
Restrictor
‘BRINE’ water
rejected by
R.O. membrane
‘PERMEATE’ water
takes 3x longer to
ll the same cup
The permeate water coming directly out of the R.O. Membrane housing (via the auto shut-o valve)
should achieve an 85% or greater reduction in ppm (parts per million) from that of your unltered
cold tap water in your home that has not been ltered by this system. If a TDS Meter was ordered
with your system gather a few ounces of water in a small glass and test the ppm’s - comparing the
ppm count of the permeate water coming directly out of your R.O. Membrane against that of your
home’s unltered cold water. It may take up to 15-20 minutes for the RO Membrane to become fully
activated and ushed of its food grade preservative to achieve this minimum 85% ppm reduction
Example: Home’s unltered tap water is 300ppm / R.O. Permeate water should be 45ppm or less.
You can nd this value for your results by multiplying them by 0.15 (the 15% of particulates that are
left when 85% have been removed). If you do not see the minimum of 85% reduction in ppm’s after
20 minutes of permeate water ow, it means your R.O. Membrane is not seated properly in the R.O.
Membrane housing. You will need to take the R.O. Membrane out and re-insert as rmly as possible,
reassemble and then re-test the ppm’s as depicted above. If you do need to re-seat your R.O. Mem-
brane it is a very quick and easy procedure. Testing the ppm reduction rate of the permeate water
coming directly out of the RO Membrane housing is the most important ppm reduction test
you can perform and is a sure way to know if your system is performing as it should.
NOTE: You can also test the ppm of the permeate water after the D.I. Resin Canisters. The ppm
of the water coming directly out of the D.I. Resin Canisters should be even lower than that com-
ing out of the R.O. Membrane. The ppm should be at or near 0 ppm after the third D.I. Canister.
TIP

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Next repeat the process in sequence
for the third D.I Canister (Fig. 16). You
can rotate the canisters on their clips
to make room for this last one. Screw
another elbow into the left side of the
last D.I. Canister. Use the second piece
of 4 in blue tubing to connect this el-
bow with the unconnected one on the
second D.I. Canister (step 2, Fig. 16).
Then on the right side of the third D.I.
Canister, insert the last elbow from the
Small Parts Bag into the“OUTLET” side
of the third D.I Canister (step 3, Fig.
16). Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of
Teon tape.
10.0 Installing the Final Polishing Filter
Push the two remaining canister clips (found in the Large Parts Bag) onto the R.O. Membrane housing
in preparation for the Final Polishing Filter (Fig 18). The space is limited for all three DI stages and the
Final Polishing lter, but they will all t. The conguration that we found works best is to have the nal
polishing lter mounted in front of all three DI resin Canisters.
Now push the Final Polishing Filter into the canister clips (Fig. 18). The direction of the Final Polishing
Filter is important. DO NOT HAVE THE TEXT UPSIDE DOWN. The arrow on the lter indicates the direc-
tion of water ow. Take the male “T” adaptor from the Small Parts Bag and screw it into the right side of
the Polishing Filter. Then take the straight male adaptor from the small parts bag and screw it into the
left side of the Polishing Filter. (Fig 18) Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of Teon tape.
Take the last of the three 4 inch piece’s of blue tubing from the Small Parts Bag and insert one end of
the 4 inch blue tube to the top of the“T” adapter and the other end to the Elbow adapter on the right
side of the third D.I. Canister. (Fig. 19).
Figure 17
Connecting
the three D.I.
Canisters
Use the 4 inch pieces of blue tubing to connect
the rst and second D.I. Canisters as shown
and the second and third
D.I. Canisters
(lters shown
side by side and
without canister
clips for clarity)
Figure 16
Attaching the 3rd
D.I. Canister and
its adaptors
12
Push 2 more canister clips onto the
R.O. Membrane housing and push
the third D.I. Canister into place
Connect another elbow to the left side
of the third D.I. Canister and connect it to
the second D.I. Canister using a 4 inch
length of blue tube
3Connect the last
elbow to the
right side of the
third D.I. Canister
www.aquasafecanada.com D.I. Canisters
rotated back
to make room
elbow elbow
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The Final Polishing Filter remineralizes
your water to ensure it has a full-bod-
ied taste. Because of this the ppm of
the water dispensed at your Aquasafe
faucet will be higher than that coming
out of the D.I. Canisters.
11.0 Prepare the R.O. Water Holding Tank
The R.O. Water Holding Tank has an air bladder and a water blad-
der inside it. The air bladder comes pre-set from the factory at 7
PSI for your convenience. CAUTION: Changes to the PSI of the
air bladder inside the R.O Water Holding tank may cause harmful
back pressure which can result in the Auto Shut-O Valve (ASV)
malfunctioning. As such, please do not attempt to adjust the air
pressure of your R.O Water Holding tank.
Please note: For your convenience, the R.O Water Holding tank
can stand up or lay horizontal to conserve space if necessary.
Screw the tank top valve found in your Small Parts Bag onto the
threads found on top of the R.O Water Holding Tank (Fig. 20).
Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of Teon tape to the thread of
the tank itself.
PLEASE NOTE: The long length of blue tubing used to ush your
prelters is the tubing you will use to hook up both the water
storage tank as well as the dedicated Reverse Osmosis faucet
that came with your system.
You will need to cut this length of blue tubing in two pieces accordingly. The length of tubing used to
hook up your kitchen faucet (which will be attached to the left side of the Polishing Filter) will prob-
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12
Push the last canister clips onto the
R.O. Membrane housing and push
the Final Polishing Filter into place
Connect the straight male adaptor to the left side
of the Polishing Filter
3Connect the
male ‘T’ adaptor
to the right side of the
Polishing Filter
Final Polishing Filter
D.I. Canisters
rotated back
to make room
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Final Polishing Filter male ‘T’ adaptor
straight
male adaptor
Figure 18
Attaching the
Final Polishing
Filter and its
adaptors
Figure 19
Attaching the
Final Polishing
to the 3rd D.I.
Canister
Final Polishing Filter
Use the 4 inch piece of blue tubing to connect the
3rd D.I. Canister and the Final Polishing Filter as shown.
(lters shown
side by side and
without canister
clips for clarity)
3rd D.I. Canister
Figure 20
Attach the tank
top valve to the
R.O. Water
Holding Tank

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Drill out your chosen spot with a 1/4 inch drill bit. The 1/4 inch hole that you drill into the carefully
chosen location on your drain pipe is where the yellow discharge line will be inserted into and secured
into place with the discharge water line (Drain) Saddle Clamp.
Take the gasket that came with your Large Parts Bag and remove the backing. Then stick the gasket to
the inside of the saddle clamp making sure that the yellow tubing is showing through at least 1/2 inch
(Fig. 23). Now secure the saddle clamp in its chosen location rmly making sure the tubing is inserted
into the drain pipe. You only need to tighten the bolts to the point where the gasket begins to com-
press against your drain pipe. Insert the other end of the yellow discharge line to the E- Z Flush Flow
Restrictor on the back of the unit.
14.0 Installing the Faucet.
Installing the faucet is next. You will most likely be installing the faucet through the sink top or beside
the sink top. Below are 4 dierent types of counters. Follow the instructions for your counter type. Be
aware that you can drill through your stainless steel sink but you will also have to drill through what-
ever counter material you have underneath your sink. If you have a porcelain sink, we advise against
an amateur installation. Either nd another spot (like beside the sink) or get a Pro.
a) Laminate: the most common material is a laminated counter top. Choose the most appropriate
spot on top, then crawl under and see where it clears. Remember, you have a large plastic washer
to put under the counter. The safe thing to do is to drill a pilot hole with your smallest bit rst. Then
drill a ½ inch hole and assemble the faucet (refer to diagram above). The rubber gasket goes under
the chrome faucet and the plastic washer goes under the counter. After putting the plastic washer in
place, put on the lock washer and then tighten the nut. Either have someone hold the faucet or put
a wrench on it and secure the wrench to prevent it from turning while you tighten the nut. Be careful
not to damage the faucet surface.
Figure 22
Where to install
the drain saddle
clamp
NOT OK Do NOT install the drain saddle
clamp inside the dashed line area.
It MUST be installed above the trap
You can install the
saddle clamp on
horizontal
or vertical pipes
sink sink
OK OK
Trap
The material of the Drain Saddle Clamp is exible. If your drain pipe is slightly larger than the cir-
cumference of the drain saddle clamp simply press the saddle clamp rmly onto the drain in order
to catch the bolts on the opposite side.
TIP
Figure 23
Assembling and
attaching the
drain saddle
clamp
rubber gasket
quick connect
tting
drain pipe
yellow drain
line
Insert yellow drain line
into quick connect tting
rubber gasket
1
2Remove the backing
from the gasket and
stick it to the inside of
the saddle clamp
making sure that the
yellow tubing is
showing through at
least 1/2 inch
Stand the unit inside a drip pan. Disposable aluminum baking sheets work ne. We suggest this
because you may have water drips while servicing the system or when you change out lters.
TIP
ably need to be longer than the length of blue tubing used to hook up your R.O Water Holding tank
(which will be attached to the right side of the Polishing Filter). Take a moment and judge how much
tubing you will need for each pur-
pose based upon where the nal
placement of your system will be lo-
cated under your sink (or the like) and
then cut the blue tubing to length
with a sharp knife making sure your
cut is straight (not at an angle).
Please note: in the last step of this
installation we will be cutting the
tubing going to the tank to install the
line for the auto top-up Float Valve
for your aquarium (see Fig. 21). You
may want to take this into consider-
ation when you decide how long to
make your tubing to the tank.
Now insert one end of the cut length of blue tubing (for the tank) into the male“T” adaptor found on
the right side of the Final Polishing Filter and the other end into the tank top valve connecting the
holding tank to the system (Fig. 21).
12.0 Clear the Decks.
If you have not already done so, the next step is to totally clean out under your sink. Get some rags to
wipe up any water drips that may be present from the installation process. Now, step back and look
at where you want the unit positioned. Please remember, you have to service the system so consider
accessibility.
13.0 Preparing the Discharge Water Saddle Clamp.
Find a location on the drain pipe under
your sink where you wish to secure the
discharge water saddle clamp found
in your Large Parts Bag (Fig. 22). Make
sure—MAKE REALLY SURE — that the lo-
cation you have chosen is above the trap!
(The trap is the“U”shaped part of the
drain pipe) You may secure the saddle
clamp on a horizontal pipe JUST AS LONG
AS YOU ARE ABOVE THE TRAP!!! Also try
to secure the saddle clamp where it will
not block anything, like where you want
to put your system.
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Final Polishing Filter
Connect the Polishing Filter to the
tank top valve using a length of blue
tubing cut to t your setup
In the nal step of these
instructions you will be
installing a 3 way T into
this tubing to run a line
to your aquarium
Figure 21
Attach the tank
top valve to the
Final Polishing
Filter

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that length of tubing into the remaining port of the 3 way“T” adapter (Step 2, Fig. 25). You don’t need
to use all 30 feet if your tank is closer but if you leave all of it intact you can move your tank further
away at a later date without purchasing a new length of tubing or a union adaptor.
On the other end of the same length of tubing you will need to cut away a 1 foot section. Make sure to
cut straight - NOT at an angle. Locate the remaining Manual Shut o Valve from your small parts bag
and reconnect the 1 foot piece of cut tubing to the main length using the Manual shut o Valve (Step
3, Fig. 25). If you ever need to shut o ow of water to the oat valve, the manual shut o valve will be
your means to do so.
Next you will need to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the appropriate location of your plexiglass sump tank.
Choose this location carefully! when your sump is full the ball of the oat should be 1/2 (HALF) sub-
merged. Pay attention to when choosing the mount location of the oat valve. When the ball of the
oat is half submerged, that is the point when it will cease the ow of water into your sump. Installing
the oat a little too low is probably better than too high. Please pay close attention, take your time and
make sure to chose the right location!
You will need to have the oat valve
mounted before hooking the tubing up
to the oat valve. The tubing hooks into
the oat valve by way of its compression
nut tting. Insert the compression nut
over the tubing and 1 inch down the tub-
ing in such a way that the threads inside
the compression nut are facing the oat
valve (Fig. 26).
Next, slide the compression ferrule over
the tubing. Now screw the compression nut onto the shaft of the oat valve. Use a pair of pliers to
tighten further to ensure the compression nut is doing its job to form the seal on the tubing.
b) Stainless Steel: Do the same as for laminate, except be really sure of your clearance space. Take a
metal punch (or a big nail) and give the magic spot a good hit. At this indentation drill a pilot hole.
A wood drill will not do it. You must use a metal drill bit suitable for stainless. Once the pilot hole is
made, follow up with a ½”hole and attach the faucet.
c) Marble or Granite: This is not that hard, but takes some time. You need a diamond tipped drill and
about 15-20 minutes. The price of a ½” diamond tipped drill is around $75.00. Since you will probably
never use it again, you would probably be better o either renting the equipment or calling in a Pro.
Most glass installers have diamond drills and all vendors of stone have them. Some will rent it out, as
will “Rent-All”stores. Start the hole by drilling a ½” hole in a piece of scrap wood. This will serve as a
guide. Hold the piece of wood and let the diamond drill bit do the work. DO NOT push down or apply
pressure. Keep the hole lled with water and wipe out the hole often. It is important to let the weight
of the drill be the pressure and to let it just grind away at its own pace (which is slow).
d) Wood: If you have a wood counter top you could of course drill out the hole just beside the sink.
Also please keep in mind that you could run the 1/4 ”tubing to a location nearby your system.
Faucet diagram for further reference.
Follow the schematic above. Use the other length of blue tubing that was cut in two pieces during
step 11.0. When you have your Aquasafe faucet rmly in place in the chosen location, insert the tube
leading from the faucet into the straight male adaptor on the left side of the Polishing Filter.
15.0 Connecting auto top-up Float Valve
Choose a point along the length of tubing that connects the tank to the male“T” of the nal polish-
ing lter and cut the tube. Make sure to cut straight - NOT at an angle. Now insert each of the two cut
ends into two of the three ports of the 3 way“T” adapter found in small parts bag (Step 1, Fig. 25).
Next locate the 30 foot length of tubing (the coil that was NOT in a Parts Bag) and connect one end of
Gooseneck
Spacer
Cover Plate
Rubber Seal
Notched Steel Washer
Nut
Plastic Ferrule
Compression Nut Blue tubing
threads
Counter Top
tighten this nut over the threads
under the faucet
remove the
protective
blue lm after
installation
Figure 24
Attaching the
faucet
Figure 25
Running tubing to
the Auto top-up
Float Valve
Figure 26
Connect the Auto
top-up Float Valve
If you have a glass sump you will simply need to clamp the oat to the top of the glass sump.
TIP
1
2
Cut the blue tubing between the polishing lter
and the tank and insert the 3 WayT adaptor.
Attach 30’length of
blue tubing to the
3 Way T adaptor and
direct it to your sump
tank or storage container.
3Cut 1 foot of tubing o the end of the
blue tubing and insert a Manual Shut
O Valve there
0 ppm aquarium water
Reservoir Tank
3 Way T
Auto top-up
Float Valve
SUMP TANK
Manual
Shut O
Valve
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Final Polishing Filter
1’
4Attach the oat valve to the sump tank
and then the blue tubing to the oat
valve (see Figure 26)
(or other water storage)
ring
steel washer
ferrule
compression nut
blue tubing
threads
-tighten this nut
over the threads
Plexiglass sump
tank wall
Float Valve
to
3 Way T

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Figure 27
The PSI Meter
Figure 28
The TDS Meter
PLEASE NOTE: Position the manual shut o valve found before your oat valve to its OFF position
until your system has purged two completely lled volumes from the holding tank. Once this purge
has taken place, feel free to open the manual shut o valve to access the 0 ppm water for your aquatic
environment.
Check over all of the steps. Make sure all of your tubing is inserted rmly into the various quick con-
nect adaptors. You may now turn the manual shut-o valve found on your feed water line back to its
“ON” position.
Your 3.2 Gallon water storage tank will now begin lling and will take a maximum 2-3 hrs to ll to
capacity for its rst time and quicker thereafter. Once the tank has lled, empty all the water out of the
water holding tank and let rell. To empty all water from your storage tank once lled you simply need
to open your faucet until the output from the faucet turns to a fast drip or slow trickle. The R.O. Mem-
brane is lled with food grade preservative for quality assurance and the nal polishing lter and the
holding tank’s water bladder should be ushed out before consuming the water. Empty two full tanks
of water in order to ensure proper ushing of your entire system. After ushing two full tanks, you can
then drink and cook with the ultra puried water and use it for your aquarium.
After emptying your water storage tank twice, allow your system to pressurize. Monitor closely for po-
tential leaks. The nature of water is to nd the path of least resistance. Some initial small leaks are not
unheard of. If leaks do occur, depressurize your system (see Fig. 29) and see Aquasafe’s LEAKS PREVEN-
TION SECTION on the page 18 of this document.
GET A GOOD FLASHLIGHT AND CHECK OVER THE ENTIRE SYSTEM CAREFULLY WHEN COMPLETED TO
SPOT ANY POTENTIAL LEAKS.
¬Congratulations on completing the installation process. You may now start drinking the ultra puri-
ed drinking water you desire for the health and enjoyment of you, your loved ones and your aquatic
pets.
If you require further clarication after going through all of the information of these instructions,
please feel free to email Aquasafe for further support at: [email protected]
Extra information for the Aquarium II Dual COMBO
Where do I install the PSI Meter from my “COMBO” System?
If you have purchased the Aquarium II Dual System Combo, your system
came with a PSI Meter as seen in Figure 20. It is not necessary that the PSI
Meter be installed onto your system. The PSI Meter is provided as a conve-
nience to you as your entire system operates from water pressure. If need
be, the PSI Meter allows you to determine the water pressure at any point
on your Reverse Osmosis System which can make troubleshooting of any
potential problems on your system extremely easy. However, if you chose
to install the PSI Meter onto your system, there one area where installing
the PSI Meter on your system can be of use.
Option 1. If you are on a well water system, and you think you may have lower then 50 psi through-
out your home’s plumbing, a good place to install the PSI Meter is on the feed water line to
your Reverse Osmosis System (between the Manual Shut-O Valve and the inlet to the rst
pre-lter housing). This will allow for easy monitoring of the source water pressure enter-
ing your Reverse Osmosis System. Your system needs consistent pressure at 50 psi or above.
Typical well water systems will top out at 60 psi and bottom out at 40 psi. If this is the case
we highly recommend an automatic booster pump available on our website – found on the
General Parts & Accessories page.
Option 2. Installing the PSI Meter on the section of white tubing coming out of the third pre-lter
housing (that attaches to the auto shut o valve) will allow you to monitor the psi of the
OUTPUT water of the 3 pre-lters. When you install new pre-lters make a note of the psi
reading at this point. Write down the psi measurement with some permanent marker on a
piece of masking tape and stick it somewhere visible on the system. Now you can check to
see when the psi on this line drops to 15% below the initial reading you wrote down (0.85 x
initial psi reading). When this happens it is time to replace your pre-lters. You might want
to also write down on the masking tape the number you are watching for, 0.85 x initial psi
reading, to make it easier to determine the status of your system.
How do I use the TDS Meter from my “COMBO” System?
The TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) Meter of your system is ex-
tremely easy and intuitive to use and comes with its own set of
intructions, but here is a quick tutorial. First you will need to get
a small glass and rinse it of all dust or other particles. Now ll
the rinsed glass with the water for which you would like to de-
termine the TDS Reading (Total Dissolved Solids). Remove the
cap from the bottom of the TDS Meter and turn on the meter.
Now simply insert the portion of the TDS Meter that was cov-
ered by the cap into the glass of water. The number that shows
on the digital display is the ppm count (Parts Per Million) of TDS
(Total Dissolved Solids) in your water.
Note: Your TDS Meter has an auto shut o feature but try to remember to shut o the TDS Meter when
you are done testing your water to save on batteries !
How do I store my 24oz bag of extra D.I Resin Beads?
The DI Resin should be kept airtight, away from all sunlight and at room temperature. Your 24oz bag
of extra DI Resin Beads comes sealed airtight in a black 4ml bag. Once you open the sealed black bag
of extra resin, tape the bag so that it is once again airtight and store at room temperature. Only cut o
one corner of the bag so that resealing the bag is made easy. If stored properly, the shelf life of the DI
Resin is years.
How do I store my extra case of 21 (6 changes) pre-filters and post-filters?
Your case of 21 pre-lters and post-lters (6 full changes) can be stored in the same state in which they
arrived. Each lter comes wrapped in protective plastic. Store at room temperature. Shelf life is years.