Aquasafe Aquarium II Dual R.O./D.I. System User manual

Aquarium II Dual R.O./D.I. System Aquarium II Dual R.O./D.I. System COMBO
Installation Instructions for:
Installation Instructions Pre-amble.
This Aquasafe Reverse Osmosis System has been specically
designed as a DIY (Do It Yourself) unit for easy installation and
maintenace purposes.You will insure a successful installation as
well as reliable operation by carefully reading this manual and
following its operational guidelines.
Your system requires a minimum of 50psi inlet water pressure.
City and municipality water utilities are mandated to provide a
minimum of 50psi however sometimes this is not what results.
If you are on a well system or on city/municipal water supply and
have less than 50psi we highly recommend a fully automatic
booster pump which is found on our websites general parts
and accessories page. We also highly recommend a booster
pump if your water is extremely turbid with ppm counts beyond
600ppm.
The installation instructions that follow are extremely detailed.
if a leak is experienced during installation, please see the Leak
Prevention Section on page 18.
ATTENTION: It is extremely important to change the
lters of your system in order to ensure ultra pure water
is being produced for your family and your aquatic pets,
(which is the whole point to your system) and also to
prevent premature fouling of the TFC Filmtec Reverse
Osmosis Membrane of your system. After your installation is
complete, please read over the Filter Change Schedule section
(page 19) and remember to mark on your calendar when your
systems lter changes need to be conducted. Filter changes on
Aquasafe’s Reverse Osmosis Systems are both inexpensive and
very easily accomplished.

www.aquasafecanada.com | Maximus II Installation Instructions 05/13 | page 1
1.0 Relax, take your time. You will find this process easy and straight forward.
municipal or
well water
(feed water)
Aqua-safe
exclusive E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
waste water drain
5, 6 & 7th Stages
De-Ionization (DI)
Cartridge for
super clean water
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4 way Auto
Shut-o
Valve (ASV)
yellow tubing
red tubing
blue
tubing
white
tubing
red
tubing
manual
shut-o
valve
Pure water outlet
to aquarium
4th Stage
Membrane
Housing
1st Stage: 5 Micron Sediment
2nd Stage: 5 Micron Granular Activated
Carbon for chemicals
3rd Stage: 1 Micron Coconut Carbon Block for chemicals
Aquarium Dual System - Front View
Pure water outlet
to faucet, icemaker etc.
8th Stage
Final Polishing Filter
for taste
Reservoir Tank
Float Valve
automatically
tops up
Sump Tank
SUMP TANK
Manual
Shut O
Valve
3
Pre
Filters
waste water drain
4th Stage
Membrane
Housing
Aqua-safe
exclusive E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
5 & 6th Stages
De-Ionization (DI)
Cartridge for
super clean water
Back View
of membrane housing
Simply follow the step by step instructions below. Please
do not make the mistake of skipping a step.
FOR REFERENCE PURPOSE ONLY: Directly below is a
schematic showing the positioning of all tubing in a fully
set up system. Please read the instructions step by step.
The install is straight forward but reading through each
step is crucial to completing your install properly in the
least amount of time possible.
The installation should take 60 - 90 minutes and when all
is set up you will have ultra pure water for the health and
enjoyment of your family & aquatic pets.
Did you know? Reverse Osmosis literally is the most
powerful water ltration method known to man.
¬Congratulations, you have just taken a huge step
towards better overall health of your family and your
aquatic pets and a bonus of cost savings and conve-
nience to you by producing your RO/DI water at home.
Contents
Installation Instructions for Aquarium II Dual Reverse Osmosis System & COMBO
1.0 Relax, take your time. You will nd this process easy and straight forward. .......................................1
2.0 Take everything out of the box .................................................................................2
3.0 Remove the protective plastic from the prelters................................................................2
4.0 Inserting the R.O. Membrane ...................................................................................3
4.1 Inserting the pre-lter elbow adaptors .....................................................................3
5.0 Preparing the Feed Water to your system .......................................................................3
5.1 Special note about braided wire plumbing .................................................................4
5.2 Installing the Needle Piecing Saddle Clamp to the cold water line. ..........................................4
5.3 Connecting the feed water line to your system..............................................................4
5.4 Piercing the cold water line ................................................................................5
5.5 Flushing of the Pre-lters ..................................................................................5
6.0 R.O. Membrane feed water line hook-up (pre-lter to R.O. Membrane) ...........................................6
7.0 Setting the Flow Restriction Ratios of your System...............................................................7
8.0 Installing the rst D.I. Resin Canister ............................................................................9
9.0 Installing the second and third D.I. Resin Canisters ..............................................................9
10.0 Installing the Final Polishing Filter ............................................................................10
11.0 Prepare the R.O. Water Holding Tank..........................................................................11
12.0 Clear the Decks...............................................................................................12
13.0 Preparing the Discharge Water Saddle Clamp. ................................................................12
14.0 Installing the Faucet..........................................................................................13
15.0 Connecting auto top-up Float Valve...........................................................................14
Extra information for the Aquarium II Dual COMBO.................................................................16
Where do I install the PSI Meter from my“COMBO” System?....................................................16
How do I use the TDS Meter from my “COMBO”System? .......................................................17
How do I store my 24oz bag of extra D.I Resin Beads?..........................................................17
How do I store my extra case of 21 (6 changes) pre-lters and post-lters? .....................................17
Leak Prevention Page ......................................................18
Threaded Fittings ............................................................................................18
Pre-Filter Canister Housing ...................................................................................18
DI Resin Canister .............................................................................................18
Aquarium II Dual System Filter Change Schedule ..................................19
Stage 1,2 & 3 Pre-Filters – When to conduct a lter change. .........................................................19
Stage 4 – When should I change the Reverse Osmosis Membrane?..................................................20
Testing to see if your R.O. Membrane needs replacing. .........................................................20
Are you unsure when you last replaced your R.O. Membrane?..................................................21
Stage 5, 6 & 7 – When should I change the resin in the D.I. Resin Canisters? .........................................21
Stage 8 – When should I change the Final Polishing Filter? .........................................................21
Aquarium II Dual System Filter Change Instructions.................................22
Pre-Filters – How to conduct a lter change. .......................................................................22
R.O. Membrane – How to change the R.O. Membrane of your system. ..............................................23
D.I. Resin Canisters - How to change the D.I. Resin Beads............................................................25
Final Polishing Filter - How to change the Final Polishing Filter......................................................26
Water Systems & Parts Warranty Information .....................................27

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If need be you can use a pair of needle nose pliers or similar tool to grip the white cylinder pro-
truding from the base of the RO Membrane to gain the leverage needed to push the membrane
entirely into its proper position.
4.0 Inserting the R.O. Membrane
The R.O. Membrane is shipped sealed for
freshness. Remove the R.O. Membrane
from its sealed plastic bag and insert the
membrane rmly into the R.O. Housing
(see Fig 4). It can only go in one way, the
end with the two small o-rings is to be
inserted rst.
Please Note: It is extremely important
the two small black “O”rings on the tip
of the membrane seal tightly into place
inside the membrane housing. Please
make sure to insert the membrane as
rmly as possible into the membrane
housing.
When you are certain the Reverse Osmosis
Membrane is rmly in place screw the R.O.
Membrane housing cap back into its place (Fig
4) and then tighten with reasonable force using
the small canister wrench from the Large Parts
Bag.
4.1 Inserting the pre-filter elbow adaptors
Using two of the elbow adaptors from the Small
Parts Bag, screw one of them into the“INLET”
(left) side of the three pre-lters (Fig. 5) and the
other into the“OUTLET” (right) side of the three
pre-lters (Fig 5).
S Please note: Apply 4-7 wraps of Teon
tape, found in the Large Parts Bag, on each of
the elbow adaptors throughout this installation
to prevent any possible leaks.
5.0 Preparing the Feed Water to your system
Found under your sink are the water supply shut o valves to your hot and cold water lines. You will
need to SHUT OFF the cold water valve. Run the hot water for 30 seconds and then feel which line un-
der your sink is warm. SHUT OFF the opposite water line – since that will be the cold water line. After
this valve is o, turn on your sink’s cold water tap to make sure there is NO cold water owing from
your kitchen sink faucet. If you shut the valve o correctly, there should be no cold water owing.
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Insert elbows into the inlet and outlet
ports on either end of the prelter
housings
“water
inlet”
side
“water
outlet”
side
Figure 5
Screw elbow
adaptors into inlet
and outlet of the
pre-filter housings
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Insert blue RO Membrane
into housing
Screw cap
on housing
1
2
Membrane housing
blue RO Membrane
Cap
Figure 4
Inserting the R.O.
Membrane in to
its housing
TIP
2.0 Take everything out of the box
Examine the contents of the Large and Small Parts Bag against the diagrams below. If any pieces are
missing, check the box, sometimes the pieces can fall out of their bags during the system’s journey to
you. Note that there is an extra length of 30’of blue tubing (for running a line to your aquarium sump
tank) plus a oat valve not packed in either of the Parts Bags.
3.0 Remove the protective plastic from the prefilters
Inside each of the three prelter canisters you will nd a prelter with protective plastic for quality as-
surance purposes. Paying close attention to how the lter is sitting inside the prelter housing, remove
the plastic and then reinsert the prelter the same way the prelter was taken out. Do this one at a
time. If by chance you loose track of which lter goes into which prelter canister, the SED (sedimen-
tary lter) is stage one, the GAC (granular activated carbon lter) is stage two and the CCB (coconut
carbon block lter) is stage three. See pictures below of the three prelters. The GAC is the only one
of the three prelters that only goes in one way. The GAC must be placed with the gasket up and the
plastic mesh down.
With the prelters inside each prelter canister, carefully screw the canisters into place. Try to keep the
prelters centered as much as possible during this process. Now, using the large canister wrench from
the Large Parts Bag, tighten each of the prelters with reasonable force in order to seal the lters into
place.
1
32 8
7
6
4
5
1 3
2
8
7
6
4
5
1
3
2 8
7
6
4
5
1 32 8
7
6
4
5
1 32
8
7
6
4
5
Figure 1
Small Parts Bag
Figure 2
Large Parts Bag
Figure 3
The three
pre-filters
3. 3X 4 inch blue tubing;
4. 3 inch red tubing
4. 8X canister clips
5. straight male adaptor
6. T adaptor
7. 3 way T adaptor
8. 8X elbow adaptors
5. drain saddle
clamp
6. teflon tape
7. blue tubing
1. 2X manual
shut off valve 2. tank top
valve
1. needle piercing
saddle clamp
2. small canister
wrench
3. large canister
wrench
1
2
3
6
7
4
5
Sedimentary Filter (SED) Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Coconut Carbon Block (CCB)

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SPlease make sure to FIRMLY push the tubing into the various ttings throughout this installation.
Now insert the needle piecing saddle clamp’s red tubing into the other side of the Manual Shut O
valve completing the feed water line pathway to your ltration system.
5.4 Piercing the cold water line
Ensuring the needle piecing saddle clamp is rmly in place, screw down the needle of the saddle
clamp using the horizontal bar on top of the clamp.
Note: You will feel resistance when the needle is piercing the cold water line, so pay attention to the
amount of resistance experienced. This resistance will stop when you have successfully pierced the
cold water line. CAUTION: Do not screw in the needle valve to its maximum depth as you then risk
piercing the opposite side of your cold water line.
After the cold water line has been pierced, turn the horizontal bar on the top of the clamp counter
clockwise (left) until it becomes snug. This retracts the piercing needle creating a path for feed water
to ow into the red tubing – supplying your system with its feed water.
PLEASE NOTE: Do not turn your home’s emergency cold water shut o back to its ON position yet!
5.5 Flushing of the Pre-filters
Found in your Large Parts
Bag is a coiled length of blue
tubing. Uncoil the tubing
and insert one end into
the “OUTPUT” elbow (right
side) of the three pre-lters
and place the other end of
the blue tubing into your
kitchen sink. (Fig 9)
This will allow for the water to ow through the three pre-lters and then into your kitchen sink, ush-
ing out any and all loose particulates and carbon dust thereby preventing these initial loose particu-
lates from reaching the 4th stage (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) ensuring the maximum life span of the
Reverse Osmosis Membrane.
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blue tubing
manual
shut o
valve
Figure 9
Flushing the
pre-filters
Figure 8
Complete the
feed water
pathway to your
system by
following the
diagram
Insert 4 inch piece of
red tubing into elbow
on “water inlet” side of
pre-lter housing
1
Attach shut
o valve to
red tubing
2Attach the
long red
tubing to other
side of shut
o valve
3
red tubing
red tubing
Manual shut
o valve
Cap
elbow
“water inlet”
(left) side
(1st prelter
housing)
red tubing
leads to needle
piercing saddle
clamp which
is attached to
your home’s
cold water line
Side
view
5.1 Special note about braided wire plumbing
Please Note: DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO INSTALL THE NEEDLE PIERCING
SADDLE CLAMP TO BRAIDED WIRE
PLUMBING (Fig. 6).
You can install the needle piercing saddle clamp to
all other forms of cold water lines found under the
common sink, just not the kind of plumbing de-
picted in Fig 6. The braided plumbing in Fig 6 is too
soft a material and will therefore not allow for the
proper seal needed. The inside of braided plumbing lines may vary and therefore may look dierently
from this example. Don’t let this confuse you. If the plumbing line is braided, DO NOT attempt to install
the feed water needed piercing valve to it. If you have this kind of plumbing there is usually a piece of
copper pipe that is located directly under your kitchen sink’s faucet assembly which you can mount to
OR see our 3/8” x 3/8”x 1/4”plumbing adaptor on our website.
5.2 Installing the Needle Piecing Saddle Clamp to the cold water line.
Rotate the horizontal turning bar of the needle piercing valve to the left (counter clockwise) as you
do not want to pierce your cold water line at this stage. Make sure the needle is retracted all the way.
Next, clamp your cold water line TIGHTLY using the needle piercing saddle clamp which can be found
in your Large Parts Bag. (Fig. 7) You will need a Phillips screwdriver and small pair or pliers for this step.
Be sure to install above your
sink’s shut o valve.
DO NOT ATTACH TO THE HOT
WATER PIPE—AS HOT WATER
WILL DAMAGE THE FILTERS
WITHIN YOUR SYSTEM.
DO NOT PIERCE THE COLD
WATER LINE AT THIS
STAGE !
5.3 Connecting the feed water line to your system.
Next, take the 2-4 Inch piece of red tube from the Small Parts Bag and insert it into the elbow on the
“INLET” (left) side of the pre-lters (Fig. 8 - next page), then take the manual shut o valve, also found
in the Small Parts Bag, and attach it to the other end of the red tube (Fig. 8 - next page).
Figure 6
Braided undersink
plumbing. DO
NOT attempt to
Install onto this
kind of plumbing.
Figure 7
Needle piercing
valve in place
on home’s cold
water line.
Corrugated nylon tube
Braided wire plumbing
h
o
m
e
’
s
c
o
l
d
w
a
t
e
r
l
i
n
e
t
o
f
a
u
c
e
t
home cold water shut o
red tubing
horizontal turning bar
Needle piercing
saddle clamp
To more easily insert the tubing into the various ttings of your system it
is helpful to remove the blue“C” clip from around the collet and then in-
sert the tubing. After the tubing has been inserted into place, pull lightly
on the tubing in order to make room for the blue“C” clip and then place
the blue “C”clip back into its original position. The blue “C”clip holds the
collet in its proper position while the system is in operation.
TIP blue
‘C’ Clip
collet
WARNING

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7.0 Setting the Flow Restriction Ratios of your System.
Using the same blue tubing used to ush the pre-lters, insert one end of the blue tubing into the E–Z
Flush Flow Restrictor (Fig 12). After you have inserted the blue tubing into the E–Z Flush Flow Restric-
tor, insert the other end of the blue tubing into your kitchen sink. The water that will ow through
your E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor is referred to as“BRINE”water and will discharge into your drain washing
away the harmful particulates removed by the R.O Membrane.
Next, get a bowl or a bucket and place it under the short piece of blue tubing that is coming out of the
auto shut-o valve (ASV). The water that will ow out of the short piece of blue tubing that is com-
ing out of the auto shut-o valve (ASV) is the puried water produced by the R.O. Membrane and is
referred to as“PERMEATE” water.
Now, turn the dial on top of the E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor clockwise (Right), entirely closing the valve
of the E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor and then turn the Manual Shut-O Valve (Fig.12) found on the feed
water supply line of your system to its“ON” Position. Within a moment PERMEATE water will begin to
ow out of the short blue piece of tubing coming out of the Auto Shut O Valve (ASV), at the rate of a
very fast drip to a slow trickle. Air inside the R.O. Membrane will be forced out causing the fast drip or
slow trickle to sputter with the air escaping. Wait 2-3 minutes for the air to fully purge so that a steady
output is achieved from the R.O. Membrane.
Next, carefully open the dial on-top of the E-Z ush Flow restrictor counter clockwise (left) VERY SLOW-
LY until the amount of BRINE water owing through the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor is owing THREE
TIMES FASTER than that of the PERMEATE water ow coming out of the RO Membrane. In this way
you achieve a 3:1 ratio where 3 parts is BRINE water and 1 part is PERMEATE water. (You can do this by
judging the ow visually or see the note below for how to do a timed measurement.)
When you are condent that you have properly set the ow ratios as explained above, locate the
“marker sleeve” which is found directly under the top dial of E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor. Screw this
marker sleeve down the threads of the shaft of the dial so that it is ush with the main body of the E–Z
Flush Flow Restrictor. This will serve as an exacting marker to the amount of ow restriction you have
set. Now turn the Manual Shut-O Valve back to its (OFF) position and remove the blue tubing from
the E–Z Flush Flow Restrictor.
4 way auto
shut-o valve
(ASV)
Connect long blue tubing
to E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor
and put other end in sink.
‘BRINE’ water rejected
by R.O. membrane
NOTE: Back View - hanging
bracket not shown for clarity
1
2Put a bowl or bucket under the short piece of blue
tubing coming out of the ASV to catch the‘PERMEATE’
water (cleaned by the R.O. Membrane)
E-Z Flush Flow
Restrictor
Close the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor and
turn the Manual Shut-O Valve on
blue tubing
Manual
Shut-O Valve
to water supply
3
Figure 12
Preparing to set
up the E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
You can now turn your home’s emergency cold water shut o valve back to its“ON” position. Please
note: By turning the cold water shut o valve back to its “ON” position you are allowing for the ow of
cold water to the system. The system’s three pre-lters will then ll with water which will come out of
the blue tube that is placed in your kitchen sink.
Allow the water to run through your system for 20 minutes to ensure proper ushing of the three pre-
lters. After the 20 minute pre-lter ush, turn the manual shut o valve, found on the feed water line
(see Fig 9), 90 degrees to the tubing as this will stop the ow of water to your system.
Next, following the diagram below, remove the blue tubing inserted into the “OUTPUT” (Right Side) of
the prelters that you just used to ush the three prelters.
To remove tubing from any point on
your system simply follow this dia-
gram (Fig. 10) You can easily remove
the tubing from any tting on your
system by removing the blue“C” clip
which will expose the “collet”. Then
simply push in the collet so that it is
ush with the tting and then pull
out the tubing.
Please note: In the future, be sure
to de-pressurize your system before removing tubing from any tting on your system. To de-pressurize
your system you simply need to turn the manual shut o valve, found on the feed water line, to its 90
degree (OFF) position, then turn your tank top valve, found on top of the water holding tank (not yet
installed at this point), to the 90 degree (OFF) position and then press down on your faucet. De-pres-
surizing your system is extremely easy and takes just seconds.
6.0 R.O. Membrane feed water line hook-up (pre-filter to R.O. Membrane)
Take the short white tube connected to the“IN”side of the 4 way auto shut-o valve (ASV) on the top
of the unit and insert it into the elbow adaptor on the “OUTPUT” (right side) of the pre-lters. (Fig. 11)
Remember to insert the tubing rmly. Next, take the short white line connected to the “OUT” side of
the 4 way auto shut-o valve (ASV) on the top of the unit and insert it into the elbow adaptor on the
cap of the R.O. Membrane housing (Fig 11). These two white tubes complete the connection between
the pre-lters and the R.O. Membrane.
Figure 10
How to
disconnect tubing
using the ‘quick-
release’ collet
Figure 11
Connect the short
white water lines
attached to the
auto shut-off
valve
4 way auto
shut-o valve
(ASV)
yellow tubing
(comes pre-connected
to ow restrictor)
Manual
Shut-O Valve
in OFF position
blue tubing (comes pre-connected)
Connect
short white
tube to elbow
on OUTPUT side
of pre-lters
Connect short white
tube to elbow on
R.O. Membrane
housing cap
NOTE: Back View - hanging
bracket not shown for clarity
1
2

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8.0 Installing the first D.I. Resin Canister
Push two canister clips (found in the Large Parts Bag) onto the R.O. Membrane housing with the wid-
est end of the clips down (Fig. 14). Attach one D.I. Canister to the canister clips by pushing the canister
down onto the clips. Ensure the blue end caps of the D.I. Resin Canister are screwed on tightly before
doing this. The arrow on the D.I. Canister depicts the direction of ow of water through the canister.
Screw in an elbow adaptor to both ends of the D.I. Canister (step 1, Fig. 15). Remember to use teon
tape (4 to 7 wraps) on the threads of the adaptors throughout the installation as a preventative
measure against potential leaks.
Next, take the short blue hose connected to the “OUT” side of the 4 way Auto Shut-O Valve (ASV) and
push it into the elbow adaptor on the left side of the D.I. Canister (step 2, Fig 15).
9.0 Installing the second and third D.I. Resin Canisters
Push two of the remaining eight Canister Clips onto the R.O. housing. Then push another D.I Canister
into its place. Now screw an elbow into each end of this DI Resin canister and then connect the two D.I
Canisters with a 4 inch piece of blue hose from the small parts bag. The schematic on page 1 or Fig. 17
shows how these canisters all connect. Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of Teon tape.
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Push 2 canister clips onto
the R.O. Membrane housing
Push the D.I Canister down onto the canister clips.
Ensure the blue end caps of the D.I Resin Canister
are screwed on tightly before doing this.
12
Figure 14
Attaching the
D.I. Resin
Canister
Figure 15
Connecting the
blue water line
(Permeate) into
the D.I. Resin
Canister
12
Insert elbows into the holes on
either end of the D.I. Canister
Connect the short blue Permeate water line coming
out of the ASV to the elbow adaptor on the left side
(as viewed from the front) of the D.I. Canister
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4 way auto
shut-o valve
(ASV)
NOTE:
Back View -
hanging
bracket
not shown
for clarity
PLEASE NOTE: The 3:1 ratio explained on
the previous page can easily be achieved
by visually judging the rate of the BRINE /
PERMEATE ows. However if you want to
achieve exacting ratios between brine and
permeate water you can simply time how
long it takes to ll a certain volume such as a
measuring cup or the like (Fig 13). When do-
ing this “timed measurement” the permeate
water should take three times as long to ll
the same volume over that of the brine water
(3:1 Ratio). We do not recommend anything
over a 1:1 ratio as it is extremely important for the R.O. Membrane to have adequate BRINE ow to be
able to ush away the harmful particulates it is removing while ltering the water. A setting near to
or at 1:1 ratio is only recommended if you are in a desert environment and need to conserve as much
water as possible or if you are charged large sums of money per gallon from your water utility. A RATIO
BEYOND 1:1 IS VERY LIKELY TO DAMAGE THE R.O. MEMBRANE. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE MORE
BRINE WATER FLOW THEN PERMEATE WATER FLOW.
Figure 13
Timing flow rates
to set up the
E-Z Flush Flow
Restrictor
‘BRINE’ water
rejected by
R.O. membrane
‘PERMEATE’ water
takes 3x longer to
ll the same cup
The permeate water coming directly out of the R.O. Membrane housing (via the auto shut-o valve)
should achieve an 85% or greater reduction in ppm (parts per million) from that of your unltered
cold tap water in your home that has not been ltered by this system. If a TDS Meter was ordered
with your system gather a few ounces of water in a small glass and test the ppm’s - comparing the
ppm count of the permeate water coming directly out of your R.O. Membrane against that of your
home’s unltered cold water. It may take up to 15-20 minutes for the RO Membrane to become fully
activated and ushed of its food grade preservative to achieve this minimum 85% ppm reduction
Example: Home’s unltered tap water is 300ppm / R.O. Permeate water should be 45ppm or less.
You can nd this value for your results by multiplying them by 0.15 (the 15% of particulates that are
left when 85% have been removed). If you do not see the minimum of 85% reduction in ppm’s after
20 minutes of permeate water ow, it means your R.O. Membrane is not seated properly in the R.O.
Membrane housing. You will need to take the R.O. Membrane out and re-insert as rmly as possible,
reassemble and then re-test the ppm’s as depicted above. If you do need to re-seat your R.O. Mem-
brane it is a very quick and easy procedure. Testing the ppm reduction rate of the permeate water
coming directly out of the RO Membrane housing is the most important ppm reduction test
you can perform and is a sure way to know if your system is performing as it should.
NOTE: You can also test the ppm of the permeate water after the D.I. Resin Canisters. The ppm
of the water coming directly out of the D.I. Resin Canisters should be even lower than that com-
ing out of the R.O. Membrane. The ppm should be at or near 0 ppm after the third D.I. Canister.
TIP

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Next repeat the process in sequence
for the third D.I Canister (Fig. 16). You
can rotate the canisters on their clips
to make room for this last one. Screw
another elbow into the left side of the
last D.I. Canister. Use the second piece
of 4 in blue tubing to connect this el-
bow with the unconnected one on the
second D.I. Canister (step 2, Fig. 16).
Then on the right side of the third D.I.
Canister, insert the last elbow from the
Small Parts Bag into the“OUTLET” side
of the third D.I Canister (step 3, Fig.
16). Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of
Teon tape.
10.0 Installing the Final Polishing Filter
Push the two remaining canister clips (found in the Large Parts Bag) onto the R.O. Membrane housing
in preparation for the Final Polishing Filter (Fig 18). The space is limited for all three DI stages and the
Final Polishing lter, but they will all t. The conguration that we found works best is to have the nal
polishing lter mounted in front of all three DI resin Canisters.
Now push the Final Polishing Filter into the canister clips (Fig. 18). The direction of the Final Polishing
Filter is important. DO NOT HAVE THE TEXT UPSIDE DOWN. The arrow on the lter indicates the direc-
tion of water ow. Take the male “T” adaptor from the Small Parts Bag and screw it into the right side of
the Polishing Filter. Then take the straight male adaptor from the small parts bag and screw it into the
left side of the Polishing Filter. (Fig 18) Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of Teon tape.
Take the last of the three 4 inch piece’s of blue tubing from the Small Parts Bag and insert one end of
the 4 inch blue tube to the top of the“T” adapter and the other end to the Elbow adapter on the right
side of the third D.I. Canister. (Fig. 19).
Figure 17
Connecting
the three D.I.
Canisters
Use the 4 inch pieces of blue tubing to connect
the rst and second D.I. Canisters as shown
and the second and third
D.I. Canisters
(lters shown
side by side and
without canister
clips for clarity)
Figure 16
Attaching the 3rd
D.I. Canister and
its adaptors
12
Push 2 more canister clips onto the
R.O. Membrane housing and push
the third D.I. Canister into place
Connect another elbow to the left side
of the third D.I. Canister and connect it to
the second D.I. Canister using a 4 inch
length of blue tube
3Connect the last
elbow to the
right side of the
third D.I. Canister
www.aquasafecanada.com D.I. Canisters
rotated back
to make room
elbow elbow
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The Final Polishing Filter remineralizes
your water to ensure it has a full-bod-
ied taste. Because of this the ppm of
the water dispensed at your Aquasafe
faucet will be higher than that coming
out of the D.I. Canisters.
11.0 Prepare the R.O. Water Holding Tank
The R.O. Water Holding Tank has an air bladder and a water blad-
der inside it. The air bladder comes pre-set from the factory at 7
PSI for your convenience. CAUTION: Changes to the PSI of the
air bladder inside the R.O Water Holding tank may cause harmful
back pressure which can result in the Auto Shut-O Valve (ASV)
malfunctioning. As such, please do not attempt to adjust the air
pressure of your R.O Water Holding tank.
Please note: For your convenience, the R.O Water Holding tank
can stand up or lay horizontal to conserve space if necessary.
Screw the tank top valve found in your Small Parts Bag onto the
threads found on top of the R.O Water Holding Tank (Fig. 20).
Remember to apply 4-7 wraps of Teon tape to the thread of
the tank itself.
PLEASE NOTE: The long length of blue tubing used to ush your
prelters is the tubing you will use to hook up both the water
storage tank as well as the dedicated Reverse Osmosis faucet
that came with your system.
You will need to cut this length of blue tubing in two pieces accordingly. The length of tubing used to
hook up your kitchen faucet (which will be attached to the left side of the Polishing Filter) will prob-
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12
Push the last canister clips onto the
R.O. Membrane housing and push
the Final Polishing Filter into place
Connect the straight male adaptor to the left side
of the Polishing Filter
3Connect the
male ‘T’ adaptor
to the right side of the
Polishing Filter
Final Polishing Filter
D.I. Canisters
rotated back
to make room
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Final Polishing Filter male ‘T’ adaptor
straight
male adaptor
Figure 18
Attaching the
Final Polishing
Filter and its
adaptors
Figure 19
Attaching the
Final Polishing
to the 3rd D.I.
Canister
Final Polishing Filter
Use the 4 inch piece of blue tubing to connect the
3rd D.I. Canister and the Final Polishing Filter as shown.
(lters shown
side by side and
without canister
clips for clarity)
3rd D.I. Canister
Figure 20
Attach the tank
top valve to the
R.O. Water
Holding Tank

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Drill out your chosen spot with a 1/4 inch drill bit. The 1/4 inch hole that you drill into the carefully
chosen location on your drain pipe is where the yellow discharge line will be inserted into and secured
into place with the discharge water line (Drain) Saddle Clamp.
Take the gasket that came with your Large Parts Bag and remove the backing. Then stick the gasket to
the inside of the saddle clamp making sure that the yellow tubing is showing through at least 1/2 inch
(Fig. 23). Now secure the saddle clamp in its chosen location rmly making sure the tubing is inserted
into the drain pipe. You only need to tighten the bolts to the point where the gasket begins to com-
press against your drain pipe. Insert the other end of the yellow discharge line to the E- Z Flush Flow
Restrictor on the back of the unit.
14.0 Installing the Faucet.
Installing the faucet is next. You will most likely be installing the faucet through the sink top or beside
the sink top. Below are 4 dierent types of counters. Follow the instructions for your counter type. Be
aware that you can drill through your stainless steel sink but you will also have to drill through what-
ever counter material you have underneath your sink. If you have a porcelain sink, we advise against
an amateur installation. Either nd another spot (like beside the sink) or get a Pro.
a) Laminate: the most common material is a laminated counter top. Choose the most appropriate
spot on top, then crawl under and see where it clears. Remember, you have a large plastic washer
to put under the counter. The safe thing to do is to drill a pilot hole with your smallest bit rst. Then
drill a ½ inch hole and assemble the faucet (refer to diagram above). The rubber gasket goes under
the chrome faucet and the plastic washer goes under the counter. After putting the plastic washer in
place, put on the lock washer and then tighten the nut. Either have someone hold the faucet or put
a wrench on it and secure the wrench to prevent it from turning while you tighten the nut. Be careful
not to damage the faucet surface.
Figure 22
Where to install
the drain saddle
clamp
NOT OK Do NOT install the drain saddle
clamp inside the dashed line area.
It MUST be installed above the trap
You can install the
saddle clamp on
horizontal
or vertical pipes
sink sink
OK OK
Trap
The material of the Drain Saddle Clamp is exible. If your drain pipe is slightly larger than the cir-
cumference of the drain saddle clamp simply press the saddle clamp rmly onto the drain in order
to catch the bolts on the opposite side.
TIP
Figure 23
Assembling and
attaching the
drain saddle
clamp
rubber gasket
quick connect
tting
drain pipe
yellow drain
line
Insert yellow drain line
into quick connect tting
rubber gasket
1
2Remove the backing
from the gasket and
stick it to the inside of
the saddle clamp
making sure that the
yellow tubing is
showing through at
least 1/2 inch
Stand the unit inside a drip pan. Disposable aluminum baking sheets work ne. We suggest this
because you may have water drips while servicing the system or when you change out lters.
TIP
ably need to be longer than the length of blue tubing used to hook up your R.O Water Holding tank
(which will be attached to the right side of the Polishing Filter). Take a moment and judge how much
tubing you will need for each pur-
pose based upon where the nal
placement of your system will be lo-
cated under your sink (or the like) and
then cut the blue tubing to length
with a sharp knife making sure your
cut is straight (not at an angle).
Please note: in the last step of this
installation we will be cutting the
tubing going to the tank to install the
line for the auto top-up Float Valve
for your aquarium (see Fig. 21). You
may want to take this into consider-
ation when you decide how long to
make your tubing to the tank.
Now insert one end of the cut length of blue tubing (for the tank) into the male“T” adaptor found on
the right side of the Final Polishing Filter and the other end into the tank top valve connecting the
holding tank to the system (Fig. 21).
12.0 Clear the Decks.
If you have not already done so, the next step is to totally clean out under your sink. Get some rags to
wipe up any water drips that may be present from the installation process. Now, step back and look
at where you want the unit positioned. Please remember, you have to service the system so consider
accessibility.
13.0 Preparing the Discharge Water Saddle Clamp.
Find a location on the drain pipe under
your sink where you wish to secure the
discharge water saddle clamp found
in your Large Parts Bag (Fig. 22). Make
sure—MAKE REALLY SURE — that the lo-
cation you have chosen is above the trap!
(The trap is the“U”shaped part of the
drain pipe) You may secure the saddle
clamp on a horizontal pipe JUST AS LONG
AS YOU ARE ABOVE THE TRAP!!! Also try
to secure the saddle clamp where it will
not block anything, like where you want
to put your system.
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Final Polishing Filter
Connect the Polishing Filter to the
tank top valve using a length of blue
tubing cut to t your setup
In the nal step of these
instructions you will be
installing a 3 way T into
this tubing to run a line
to your aquarium
Figure 21
Attach the tank
top valve to the
Final Polishing
Filter

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that length of tubing into the remaining port of the 3 way“T” adapter (Step 2, Fig. 25). You don’t need
to use all 30 feet if your tank is closer but if you leave all of it intact you can move your tank further
away at a later date without purchasing a new length of tubing or a union adaptor.
On the other end of the same length of tubing you will need to cut away a 1 foot section. Make sure to
cut straight - NOT at an angle. Locate the remaining Manual Shut o Valve from your small parts bag
and reconnect the 1 foot piece of cut tubing to the main length using the Manual shut o Valve (Step
3, Fig. 25). If you ever need to shut o ow of water to the oat valve, the manual shut o valve will be
your means to do so.
Next you will need to drill a 1/2 inch hole into the appropriate location of your plexiglass sump tank.
Choose this location carefully! when your sump is full the ball of the oat should be 1/2 (HALF) sub-
merged. Pay attention to when choosing the mount location of the oat valve. When the ball of the
oat is half submerged, that is the point when it will cease the ow of water into your sump. Installing
the oat a little too low is probably better than too high. Please pay close attention, take your time and
make sure to chose the right location!
You will need to have the oat valve
mounted before hooking the tubing up
to the oat valve. The tubing hooks into
the oat valve by way of its compression
nut tting. Insert the compression nut
over the tubing and 1 inch down the tub-
ing in such a way that the threads inside
the compression nut are facing the oat
valve (Fig. 26).
Next, slide the compression ferrule over
the tubing. Now screw the compression nut onto the shaft of the oat valve. Use a pair of pliers to
tighten further to ensure the compression nut is doing its job to form the seal on the tubing.
b) Stainless Steel: Do the same as for laminate, except be really sure of your clearance space. Take a
metal punch (or a big nail) and give the magic spot a good hit. At this indentation drill a pilot hole.
A wood drill will not do it. You must use a metal drill bit suitable for stainless. Once the pilot hole is
made, follow up with a ½”hole and attach the faucet.
c) Marble or Granite: This is not that hard, but takes some time. You need a diamond tipped drill and
about 15-20 minutes. The price of a ½” diamond tipped drill is around $75.00. Since you will probably
never use it again, you would probably be better o either renting the equipment or calling in a Pro.
Most glass installers have diamond drills and all vendors of stone have them. Some will rent it out, as
will “Rent-All”stores. Start the hole by drilling a ½” hole in a piece of scrap wood. This will serve as a
guide. Hold the piece of wood and let the diamond drill bit do the work. DO NOT push down or apply
pressure. Keep the hole lled with water and wipe out the hole often. It is important to let the weight
of the drill be the pressure and to let it just grind away at its own pace (which is slow).
d) Wood: If you have a wood counter top you could of course drill out the hole just beside the sink.
Also please keep in mind that you could run the 1/4 ”tubing to a location nearby your system.
Faucet diagram for further reference.
Follow the schematic above. Use the other length of blue tubing that was cut in two pieces during
step 11.0. When you have your Aquasafe faucet rmly in place in the chosen location, insert the tube
leading from the faucet into the straight male adaptor on the left side of the Polishing Filter.
15.0 Connecting auto top-up Float Valve
Choose a point along the length of tubing that connects the tank to the male“T” of the nal polish-
ing lter and cut the tube. Make sure to cut straight - NOT at an angle. Now insert each of the two cut
ends into two of the three ports of the 3 way“T” adapter found in small parts bag (Step 1, Fig. 25).
Next locate the 30 foot length of tubing (the coil that was NOT in a Parts Bag) and connect one end of
Gooseneck
Spacer
Cover Plate
Rubber Seal
Notched Steel Washer
Nut
Plastic Ferrule
Compression Nut Blue tubing
threads
Counter Top
tighten this nut over the threads
under the faucet
remove the
protective
blue lm after
installation
Figure 24
Attaching the
faucet
Figure 25
Running tubing to
the Auto top-up
Float Valve
Figure 26
Connect the Auto
top-up Float Valve
If you have a glass sump you will simply need to clamp the oat to the top of the glass sump.
TIP
1
2
Cut the blue tubing between the polishing lter
and the tank and insert the 3 WayT adaptor.
Attach 30’length of
blue tubing to the
3 Way T adaptor and
direct it to your sump
tank or storage container.
3Cut 1 foot of tubing o the end of the
blue tubing and insert a Manual Shut
O Valve there
0 ppm aquarium water
Reservoir Tank
3 Way T
Auto top-up
Float Valve
SUMP TANK
Manual
Shut O
Valve
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Final Polishing Filter
1’
4Attach the oat valve to the sump tank
and then the blue tubing to the oat
valve (see Figure 26)
(or other water storage)
ring
steel washer
ferrule
compression nut
blue tubing
threads
-tighten this nut
over the threads
Plexiglass sump
tank wall
Float Valve
to
3 Way T

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Figure 27
The PSI Meter
Figure 28
The TDS Meter
PLEASE NOTE: Position the manual shut o valve found before your oat valve to its OFF position
until your system has purged two completely lled volumes from the holding tank. Once this purge
has taken place, feel free to open the manual shut o valve to access the 0 ppm water for your aquatic
environment.
Check over all of the steps. Make sure all of your tubing is inserted rmly into the various quick con-
nect adaptors. You may now turn the manual shut-o valve found on your feed water line back to its
“ON” position.
Your 3.2 Gallon water storage tank will now begin lling and will take a maximum 2-3 hrs to ll to
capacity for its rst time and quicker thereafter. Once the tank has lled, empty all the water out of the
water holding tank and let rell. To empty all water from your storage tank once lled you simply need
to open your faucet until the output from the faucet turns to a fast drip or slow trickle. The R.O. Mem-
brane is lled with food grade preservative for quality assurance and the nal polishing lter and the
holding tank’s water bladder should be ushed out before consuming the water. Empty two full tanks
of water in order to ensure proper ushing of your entire system. After ushing two full tanks, you can
then drink and cook with the ultra puried water and use it for your aquarium.
After emptying your water storage tank twice, allow your system to pressurize. Monitor closely for po-
tential leaks. The nature of water is to nd the path of least resistance. Some initial small leaks are not
unheard of. If leaks do occur, depressurize your system (see Fig. 29) and see Aquasafe’s LEAKS PREVEN-
TION SECTION on the page 18 of this document.
GET A GOOD FLASHLIGHT AND CHECK OVER THE ENTIRE SYSTEM CAREFULLY WHEN COMPLETED TO
SPOT ANY POTENTIAL LEAKS.
¬Congratulations on completing the installation process. You may now start drinking the ultra puri-
ed drinking water you desire for the health and enjoyment of you, your loved ones and your aquatic
pets.
If you require further clarication after going through all of the information of these instructions,
Extra information for the Aquarium II Dual COMBO
Where do I install the PSI Meter from my “COMBO” System?
If you have purchased the Aquarium II Dual System Combo, your system
came with a PSI Meter as seen in Figure 20. It is not necessary that the PSI
Meter be installed onto your system. The PSI Meter is provided as a conve-
nience to you as your entire system operates from water pressure. If need
be, the PSI Meter allows you to determine the water pressure at any point
on your Reverse Osmosis System which can make troubleshooting of any
potential problems on your system extremely easy. However, if you chose
to install the PSI Meter onto your system, there one area where installing
the PSI Meter on your system can be of use.
Option 1. If you are on a well water system, and you think you may have lower then 50 psi through-
out your home’s plumbing, a good place to install the PSI Meter is on the feed water line to
your Reverse Osmosis System (between the Manual Shut-O Valve and the inlet to the rst
pre-lter housing). This will allow for easy monitoring of the source water pressure enter-
ing your Reverse Osmosis System. Your system needs consistent pressure at 50 psi or above.
Typical well water systems will top out at 60 psi and bottom out at 40 psi. If this is the case
we highly recommend an automatic booster pump available on our website – found on the
General Parts & Accessories page.
Option 2. Installing the PSI Meter on the section of white tubing coming out of the third pre-lter
housing (that attaches to the auto shut o valve) will allow you to monitor the psi of the
OUTPUT water of the 3 pre-lters. When you install new pre-lters make a note of the psi
reading at this point. Write down the psi measurement with some permanent marker on a
piece of masking tape and stick it somewhere visible on the system. Now you can check to
see when the psi on this line drops to 15% below the initial reading you wrote down (0.85 x
initial psi reading). When this happens it is time to replace your pre-lters. You might want
to also write down on the masking tape the number you are watching for, 0.85 x initial psi
reading, to make it easier to determine the status of your system.
How do I use the TDS Meter from my “COMBO” System?
The TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) Meter of your system is ex-
tremely easy and intuitive to use and comes with its own set of
intructions, but here is a quick tutorial. First you will need to get
a small glass and rinse it of all dust or other particles. Now ll
the rinsed glass with the water for which you would like to de-
termine the TDS Reading (Total Dissolved Solids). Remove the
cap from the bottom of the TDS Meter and turn on the meter.
Now simply insert the portion of the TDS Meter that was cov-
ered by the cap into the glass of water. The number that shows
on the digital display is the ppm count (Parts Per Million) of TDS
(Total Dissolved Solids) in your water.
Note: Your TDS Meter has an auto shut o feature but try to remember to shut o the TDS Meter when
you are done testing your water to save on batteries !
How do I store my 24oz bag of extra D.I Resin Beads?
The DI Resin should be kept airtight, away from all sunlight and at room temperature. Your 24oz bag
of extra DI Resin Beads comes sealed airtight in a black 4ml bag. Once you open the sealed black bag
of extra resin, tape the bag so that it is once again airtight and store at room temperature. Only cut o
one corner of the bag so that resealing the bag is made easy. If stored properly, the shelf life of the DI
Resin is years.
How do I store my extra case of 21 (6 changes) pre-filters and post-filters?
Your case of 21 pre-lters and post-lters (6 full changes) can be stored in the same state in which they
arrived. Each lter comes wrapped in protective plastic. Store at room temperature. Shelf life is years.

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LEAK PREVENTION PAGE
ATTENTION: Before commencing any work on your system you need to depressurize your system - see Figure 29. To
repressurize your system when you are done, turn the tank top valve and the manual shut o valve back on.
Threaded Fittings
To prevent a leak on any threaded tting that screws into the Reverse
Osmosis System you simply need to employ Teon tape. The main
instructions pages indicates the preventative measure of wrapping the
threads of the various threaded ttings 4-7 times with Teon tape.
This preventative measure will ensure against any potential leaks from
the various threaded ttings throughout your Reverse Osmosis System.
ADDING SUFFICIENT TEFLON TAPE IS KEY!
If you are experiencing a leak from a 1/4 inch tube inserted into a quick connect tting, you simply need to insert the
tubing into the threaded tting further. To do this you may need a small pair of pliers to assist you in gripping the tube.
If the use of pliers is needed, grab the tubing 3/4 inch from where the tube inserts into the threaded tting in order to
not scratch the section of tube that will be inserting further into the threaded tting. A scratched section of tubing
that is inserted into a threaded tting can act as a path for water to ow, which in turn may result in a small leak.
Pre-Filter Canister Housing
All Aquasafe Reverse Osmosis Pre-Filter Housings are“Compres-
sion Sealed”. This means that 99% of the time any leak coming
from the threads of the Pre-Filter Housing can be easily xed by
tightening with the system’s“large Canister Wrench”. A “Large
Canister Wrench”came with the Original Purchase of your Re-
verse Osmosis System
D.I. Resin Canister
Sometimes the DI resin beads can get caught up in the threads of the
canister and in threads of the DI Canister cap. Brush away all of the DI
resin beads from the DI Canister housing and rinse out the cap. Once
the threads of the DI Resin Canister are free of all DI resin beads a leak
coming from the DI Canister can be xed by tightening the lid as much
as possible. Get a cloth to help give the grip needed for tightening
purposes. In the extremely rare case that you are still having trouble with
one end of the DI Resin Canister, you can apply a small amount of silicone (the non-hardening variety). The key to this
method is using a SMALL amount. Do not silicone both ends as you will need to change the resin beads in the future.
(Repeat the clearing of the threads a second time before you resort to this though!)
blue
‘C’ Clip
collet
Pre-Filter Housing
D.I. Resin Canister
Large Canister Wrench
To more easily insert the tubing into the various quick connect ttings of
your system it is helpful to remove the blue “C” clip from around the collet
and then insert the tubing. After the tubing has been inserted rmly into
place, pull lightly on the tubing in order to make room for the blue “C” clip
and then place the blue“C”clip back into its original position. The blue “C”
clip holds the collet in its proper position while the system is in operation.
TIP
Teflon Tape
Threaded Fitting
AQUARIUM II DUAL SYSTEM FILTER CHANGE SCHEDULE
Pre & Post lters: Dened as the lter stages Pre (before RO Membrane ) and Post (after RO Membrane).
Stage 1,2 & 3 Pre-Filters – When to conduct a filter change.
Stages 1, 2 and 3 are your system’s pre-lters which need to be changed every 1000 gallons of puried
water produced. The average household consumes 3-5 gallons of drinking and cooking water daily. At
5 gallons per day consumption rate a lter change is needed every 6 months or sooner. With the extra
water required for aquarium water changes you need to adjust this accordingly. Your aquarium’s water
changes will most likely be a consistent volume of water. Measure the approximate gallon amount
for your average aquarium water change and add that to your household consumption (drinking and
cooking water) in gallons per day. Divide the resulting number into the 1000 gallon pre-lter capac-
ity and the result will be the number of days you can go before the lters will need changing. Always
err on the side of caution and change your prelters at least a couple of weeks early to ensure that the
water quality for your aquatic pets stays at an optimal level. Mark your calendar with this date!
Please Note: Maintaining the pre-lters of your system is key to ensuring system integrity in both wa-
ter quality achieved and overall longevity of its parts and components. The pre-lters are your system’s
rst line of defence - protecting and ensuring the maximum lifespan of the R.O. Membrane. If you
have a PSI Meter (included with the combo system) you can also use it to determine when to change
your pre-lters (see option 2, page17).
Example: 100 gallon aquarium with 30% water change every week + average household con-
sumption of 5 gallons per day for drinking and cooking:
33 gallons per week aquarium water + (5 gallons per day x 7 days a week)= 68 gallons per week
So to calculate how long your lters would last:
1000 gallon pre-lter capacity ÷ 68 gallons per week = 14.7 weeks
So, in this example, your lters will last about 3.5 months. We would suggest, based on this exam-
ple, changing the lters every 3 months to ensure that the water quality for you and your aquatic
pets stays at an optimal level. Mark on your calendar when to do the lter changes so that you
don’t forget and make sure you have spare lters on hand.
IF THE PREFILTERS ARE NOT CHANGED BEFORE 1000 GALLONS OF PURIFIED WATER IS
CONSUMED FROM THE SYSTEM, CHLORINE WILL BYPASS THE PREFILTERS REACHING AND
CHEMICALLY DAMAGING THE R.O. MEMBRANE RENDERING IT USELESS. It is important to
understand that even if chlorine is not present, after the 1000 gallon mark, seepage may occur
where very ne particulates will bypass the pre-lters stressing the R.O. Membrane greatly. This
will result in pre-mature fouling of the R.O. Membrane resulting in the R.O. Membrane needing to
be replaced before its due time – a costly mistake.
TIP
WARNING
If you are a 1 person household or a large family household it may be advantageous to monitor
approximately how many gallons of drinking and cooking water is consumed daily to factor the
proper lter change schedule for your individual situation.
• Example: Large household or oce environment consuming 8 GPD (gallons per day) with an
aqarium consuming 5 GPD is a total daily consumption of 13 GPD
1000 gallon pre-lter capacity ÷ (13 GPD x 30.5 average days a month) = pre-lter change ap-
prox. every 2.5 months.
TIP
blue
‘C’ Clip
collet

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Stage 4 – When should I change the Reverse Osmosis Membrane?
The R.O. Membrane is the very heart of your Aquasafe Reverse Osmosis System. The R.O. Membrane
is rated for an average of 4000-5000 Gallons of puried water production. If you have a TDS Meter a
very simple but critical test you can perform in order to determine if your R.O. Membrane needs to be
replaced is to measure the PPM reduction rate of the puried (permeate) water coming directly out of
the R.O. Membrane housing (see Fig. 29 and 30 for how to do this).
Testing to see if your R.O. Membrane needs replacing.
Step 1. How to depressurize your system (Fig 29)
Step 2. Test your permeate water (Fig 30)
The PPM count should be 15% or less from that of your unltered tap water that can be gathered from
any cold water tap in your home.
• Example: if your unltered tap water is 200ppm then the puried permeate water coming out of
the R.O. Membrane should be 30ppm or less (200 x 0.15).
If your R.O. Membrane is not producing the 85% or better in PPM reduction as depicted above, you
need to change this membrane.
12
3
Shut o the ow of water to the feed
water supply line of your system via the
Manual Shut O Valve found spliced
into the feed water line.
Turn the tank top valve,
found on top of your
water holding tank,
to its “OFF” position.
feed
water
line
Manual Shut-O Valve
in OFF position
Final Polishing Filter
Press down on your
kitchen faucet until the
ow of water stops to
complete the
depressurizing process.
Tank Top Valve
in OFF position
ON OFF
Manual Shut-O Valve (top view)
TOP VIEW OF SYSTEM
3 Way T
to aquarium sump tank
14
Depressurize your system (see Fig. 29)
2Remove (see Fig 10) the blue tubing coming out
of the R.O. Membrane housing from
where it connects into the D.I. Resin Canister.
Gather some water coming from the
disconnected blue tube and test the PPM count
with your TDS Meter. The PPM count should be
15% (or less) than that of your unltered water.
Turn the feed
water back ON
with the Manual
Shut-O Valve
NOTE:
Back View -
hanging
bracket
not shown
for clarity
Manual
Shut-O Valve
in “OFF” position
E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
feed water in
yellow tubing
to discharge
saddle clamp
3
TDS Meter
Figure 29
How to
depressurize
your system
Figure 30
Testing your
permeate water
with the TDS
meter
WARNING
Are you unsure when you last replaced your R.O. Membrane?
Because the weekly gallon demand varies greatly from one aquarium enthusiast to the next, we
highly recommend that you test your water immediately as described above to see if your mem-
brane is still producing an 85% ppm reduction from your normal tap water (based on the permeate
water test in Fig 30). If you don’t have a TDS meter to do this with, get one right away. The health
of your aquarium depends on it. If you can’t verify the ppm of your water you can’t guarantee that
your aquarium isn’t being exposed to harmful contaminants.
Stage 5, 6 & 7 – When should I change the resin in the D.I. Resin Canisters?
The D.I. Resin Beads inside the D.I. Resin Canister typically need to be changed along with your pre-
lter changes. However this is not always the case. The D.I. Resin is“color-indicating”– meaning it
changes color to signify when the resin has become exhausted and needs to be changed. The color-
indicating resin will change from emerald green to amber-orange or brown when exhausted. All
Aquasafe D.I. canisters are 100% reusable by way of the removable blue end caps.
Stage 8 – When should I change the Final Polishing Filter?
This is the nal ltration stage in your R.O. System. The Final Polishing lter is rated for 1800-2000
gallons of puried water production and therefore should be changed every second time you change
your three pre-lters.
It can be misleading when trying to observe the color of the resin when the canister is lled
with water as the water gives a darkening eect. To observe the true color of the resin it is best to
hold a ashlight to the canister to illuminate the true color of the resin. Alternatively, disconnect
the tubing from one side of the D.I. Canister to allow a portion of water to drain from the canister
revealing the true color of the resin. Please remember to depressurize your system (see Fig. 29)
before disconnecting tubing from any point on your system.
TIP

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R.O. Membrane – How to change the R.O. Membrane of your system.
The fourth stage of your system is the Reverse Osmosis Membrane (Dow Filmtech Material R.O. 0.0001
Micron). For your convenience, the Reverse Osmosis Membrane oered by Aquasafe will t perfectly
into any Reverse Osmosis System Aquasafe has oered in the past.
Step 1. Depressurize your system. (see Fig. 29)
Step 2. Remove R.O. Membrane housing Cap (Fig. 33)
Step 3. Removing the old R.O. Membrane and inserting the new R.O. Membrane (Fig. 34)
Please note: The R.O. Membrane needs to be inserted as
rmly as possible to ensure a proper seal is formed. For the
R.O. Membrane to function properly it is extremely important
for the two small“O”rings on the tip of the R.O. Membrane
to seal properly inside the R.O. Membrane housing. To gain
added leverage you can use a pair of needle nose pliers (or
the like) to grab hold of the 1 inch white cylinder protrud-
ing from the base of the R.O. Membrane to push in and twist
slightly. You will notice the membrane slip further into its
housing forming the necessary seal described.
Next, screw the R.O. Membrane housing Cap back into place
using the small canister wrench and reinsert the white tubing
(Fig. 35).
AQUARIUM II DUAL SYSTEM FILTER CHANGE INSTRUCTIONS
Pre-Filters – How to conduct a filter change.
Step 1. Changing the pre-lters (Fig. 31)
Please note: After completing Fig 31 (Steps 1-5), you will need to conduct a “pre-lter ush” so don’t
repressurize your system yet!
Step 2. Flushing the Pre-Filters (Fig. 32)
All water lters throughout the water ltration industry should be ushed out before nal use to rinse
away any initial loose particulates from the manufacturing process. This process is very easy.
Congratulations. You have just completed a full change of your systems three pre-lters ensuring the
purest of water for you and your aquatic pets and the continued performance of your system. Remem-
ber to mark on your calendar when to change the pre-lters again and check for any other lters that
may need changing at this time in the Aquarium II Dual Filter Change Schedule starting on page 19.
Figure 32
Flushing the
pre-filters
Figure 33
Removing the
R.O. Membrane
Housing cap
NOTE:
Back View -
hanging
bracket
not shown
for clarity
12
3
Disconnect (see Fig. 10) the white tubing from the third
pre-lter housing and the yellow tubing from the output
side of the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor
Connect the yellow tubing to the last
pre-lter housing. The ush water will run
through this tube into your drain.
Manual
Shut-O Valve
in “OFF” position
E-Z Flush
Flow Restrictor
feed water in
yellow tubing
to discharge
saddle clamp
Turn Manual
Shut-O Valve
back ON and ush
new pre-lters for
10-15 minutes
4 5
feed water in
yellow tubing
to discharge
saddle clamp
DONE!
After the 10-15 minute ush turn Manual Shut-O
Valve back OFF and reconnect the white and
yellow tubes to their original positions.
If this is the only lter change you are doing at this
time, you can turn the Manual Shut-O Valve andTank
Top Valve back ON and you are
to faucet
3 Way T
www.aquasafecanada.com
Final Polishing Filter
to tank
1Remove white tubing (see Fig. 10) from
the elbow adaptor found on the cap of
the Reverse Osmosis Membrane Housing.
Using the small
canister wrench that
came with your system,
remove the cap of the
R.O. Membrane
housing. Twist the cap
counter clockwise.
Please note: Have a
cloth at hand... some
water will come out
when taking the cap
o the R.O. Membrane
housing and removing
the membrane itself.
elbow
u
n
s
c
r
e
w
NOTE:
Side View
disconnected
white tube
Small Canister
Wrench
2
to
aquarium
sump
tank
white
tubing
Figure 34
Removing the old
R.O. Membrane
and inserting the
new one
Figure 35
Screw on the
R.O. Membrane
housing cap and
re-insert the
white tubing
12
Removing The Old Membrane: You will now be able to
see the Reverse Osmosis Membrane inside the R.O.
Membrane Housing. The membrane can swell inside its
housing making it dicult to remove by hand. Use a pair
of needle nose pliers (or the like) to grab hold of the
1 inch white cylinder protruding from the base of the
membrane and pull out the old R.O. Membrane.
RO
MEMBRANE
Inserting the new R.O. Membrane: Your R.O.
Membrane comes sealed for freshness in a clear
protective plastic. Remove your new membrane
from its protective plastic. Insert your new R.O.
Membrane into the R.O. Membrane housing of your
system. The end of the R.O. Membrane that has the
two small “O” rings gets inserted rst.
NOTE:
Side View
re-connect
this white tube
to the elbow
Small
Canister
Wrench
Screw the R.O. Membrane
housing cap back onto it place
and reinsert the white tubing.
to faucet
elbow
s
c
r
e
w
o
n
www.aquasafecanada.com
www.aquasafecanada.com
2
1Depressurize your system (see Fig. 29) 3
4
5
large canister
wrench
NOTE: R.O. Membrane, lters
and hoses not shown for clarity
Remove and discard old lter. Remove
protective plastic from the replacement
SED (sedimentary) lter and insert into
housing. There is no up or down to this
lter.
SED GAC CCB
Make sure the new SED pre-lter is centered in the
pre-lter housing. Screw the rst pre-lter housing
back on and tighten using the large canister
wrench. Use reasonable force to ensure a proper
compression seal.
Unscrew the rst pre-lter housing with the large
canister wrench. Please note: There will still be
water in the housings of the lters so it will be
helpful to have a cloth at hand.
GAC lter
has a white
gasket at
the top and
mesh on
the bottom.
Replace the second (GAC -
Granular Activated Carbon) and
third (CCB - Coconut Carbon Block)
pre-lters in the same way. The
only lter for which direction
matters is the GAC lter.
Move on to the pre-lter ush.
Figure 31
Changing the
pre-filters

www.aquasafecanada.com | Maximus II Installation Instructions 05/13 | page 25page 24 | Maximus II Installation Instructions 05/13 | www.aquasafecanada.com
D.I. Resin Canisters - How to change the D.I. Resin Beads
In order to change the D.I. Resin of your three 6oz D.I. Resin Canisters, you will need to have on hand
the replacement D.I. Resin beads. If you do not have the needed replacement D.I. Resin Beads, you can
easily and securely order a 24 oz bag of replacement resin from our online store.
This concludes the instruction for changing the D.I Resin canisters of your Aquasafe Reverse Osmosis
System.
13
Depressurize your system (see Fig. 29)
2Remove (see Fig 10) the blue tubing from
both ends of the D.I. Resin Canister you are
going to work on.
NOTE:
Back View -
hanging
bracket
not shown
for clarity
Manual
Shut-O Valve
in “OFF” position
feed water in
RO/DI
permeate
water
Tap down lightly
to saddle clamp/drain
Now pull the D.I. Canister out of its canister clips
456
7
8
9
Allow the water to
drain from the
canister by
positioning the
canister vertically
over your sink or
the like.
Remove one of
the blue end
caps by turning
the blue end
cap counter
clockwise.
Dispose of the old D.I. Resin
Beads and rell the now
empty D.I. Resin canister with
the new D.I. Resin Beads.
NOTE: It is important to
pack the resin into the
canister tightly. To ensure
this, hold the canister
vertically (straight up and
down) and ll half way and
then tap the canister lightly
on a surface which will act
to compact the resin into
place. Fill to the top then
tap again. Top up any air
space left with resin.
When the new D.I. Resin has entirely lled the DI Canister, inspect the threads of the DI canister and remove any
resin beads which have found their way into the threads of the canister. Also rinse out the blue end cap with
water.
Tighten the blue end cap back into its place with reasonable force. You can now position the D.I. Resin Canister
back into its normal place on the Reverse Osmosis System by pushing the canister down onto its canister clips.
Repeat for second and third D.I. Canisters.
Reinsert the blue tubing into the elbows on both sides of the D.I. Resin Canister. Turn on the Manual Shut-O
Valve and Tank Top Valve to repressurize your system.
Figure 36a
Replacing the D.I.
Resin Beads
If you are done replacing lters for now, you can re-pressurize your system by turning on the feed
water line via the Manual Shut-O Valve. Please note: Your new R.O. Membrane comes saturated with
food grade preservative so that it stays fresh and does not dry out and therefore it is wise to ush 6
gallons of water before you start using the water from the new membrane. To do this let your 3 gallon
tank ll and empty it using the faucet. Do this twice. This concludes the steps to change the Reverse
Osmosis Membrane of your system. Remember to mark on your calendar when to change these
again and check for any other lters that may need changing at this time in the Aquarium II Dual Filter
Change Schedule starting on page 19.
With the new membrane in place it is important to verify the ppm (parts per million) reduction
rate of the puried water being produced by the R.O. Membrane. To do this you will need to use
your TDS Meter.
Please note: If you do not have a TDS Meter we highly recommend you acquire one as it is the
only way to verify the purity of the water the system is producing.
Follow the instructions in Figure 30 to test your puried water. It is important to note that your
new R.O. Membrane comes saturated with food grade preservative so that it stays fresh and does
not dry out and therefore it may take 10-15 minutes of puried (permeate) water owing out of
the blue tube to show the ppm reduction rates described in Fig. 30 and just after Fig. 30. If, after 15
minutes, you do not see the reductions rates as descibed, it simply means your R.O. Membrane is
not seated properly inside the R.O. Membrane housing and as such you will need to“re-seat” the
R.O. Membrane. To do this simply follow the directions depicted on the previous page (Fig. 33 - 35)
to remove and re-insert the same R.O. Membrane. Then re-test the permeate water for ppm reduc-
tion percentages.
TIP

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Final Polishing Filter - How to change the Final Polishing Filter
This is the nal ltration stage in your R.O. System. The Final Polishing lter is rated for 1800-2000
gallons of puried water production and therefore should be changed every second time you change
your three pre-lters.
This concludes all lter change instructions for the Aquarium II Dual System. Please check on your sys-
tem every hour after the lter change for the rst three to four hours inspecting for any potential small
leaks. If any drips are detected please see our Leak Prevention Page (page 18) which will explain how
to quickly and easily x all potential leaks.
Please do not hesitate to contact if you should need further assistance.
• Phone: (Toll Free) 1-888-942-0226
• Skype: Aquasafe
• Email: [email protected]
Thank You for choosing Aquasafe Systems, we greatly value your business!
Figure 33
Replacing the
Final Polishing
Filter
www.aquasafecanada.com
3 Way T
www.aquasafecanada.com
Final Polishing Filter
to tank
to
aquarium
sump
tank
Remove (see Fig. 10) the three tubes
from the ttings on either side of your
used nal polishing lter.
Attach the new nal polishing lter by reversing steps 3 and 2. It does not
matter which outlet of the male‘T’ adaptor connects to the tank and which
to the last D.I. Resin canister.The straight male adaptor connects to the
faucet.
1Depressurize your system (see Fig. 29) Pull the nal
polishing lter out
of its clips.
3Unscrew the straight male
adaptor and the male‘T’
adaptor from either end
of the old lter and insert
them into the new lter.
Pay attention to the
direction of the arrow on
the polishing lter and
insert them on the same
side they were on before.
The male T adaptor goes
on the side closest to the
base of the arrow.
4
5
6
to faucet
Final Polishing Filter
Final Polishing Filter
Final Polishing Filter
New Filter
Old Filter
2
Turn on the Manual Shut-O Valve and Tank Top Valve to repressurize your system.
PLEASE NOTE: Please ush out the nal polishing lter by allowing the tank to ll then empty the whole
tank down the drain through the faucet. Do this ush twice.
AQUASAFE’S THREE YEAR WARRANTY
All Aquasafe Water Filtration Systems are hereby warranted to be free
from defects in material and workmanship for a full 3 years from the
time of the original purchase, excluding the ltration media (IE Re-
verse Osmosis Filters, Reverse Osmosis Membranes, DI Resin Beards
and other such media) as it is typical to change such media approx
every 6 months. Any lter housings or adaptor ttings found to be de-
fective will be replaced free of charge with all cost of shipping borne
by Aquasafe. Any costs, labor and associated liability with removal or
installation of the product for warranty consideration shall be borne
by the purchaser. Please note that Aquasafe’s Systems are designed as
DIY (Do It Yourself), therefore there should not be any costs associated
with removal or installation of the very simple to install and maintain
Reverse Osmosis Systems that Aquasafe oers.
FAUCET
Standard reverse osmosis faucets are replaced free for one full year.
After which, the standard faucets can be replaced at any time for one-
half the current retail price at time of replacement for life. Shipping
costs for replacement Faucets shall be borne by the customer.
PRE AND POST FILTER CARTRIDGES
Once used in a system, the Reverse Osmosis Pre and Post Filter Car-
tridges are non refundable. However if the structural integrity of a Pre
and Post lter is found to be damaged upon delivery and before use
in a system, a full 100% replacement will be sent with the cost of ship-
ping being borne by Aquasafe. The structural problem must be made
aware to Aquasafe no more then 30 days after delivery of product and
all defective lters must be returned to Aquasafe.
REVERSE OSMOSIS MEMBRANES
All Reverse Osmosis Membranes oered by Aquasafe come with a 1
year warranty.This warranty is void if any of the following has occurred
or is not adhered to:
• TheMembrane hasbeen subjectto improperow restrictionra-
tios. (please see the installation instructions pages for the proper
setting of the ow restriction ratios)
• Ifthewatertemperatureexceeds113°F(45°C).
• ThemembraneisnotsubjectedtoapHlowerthen4orhigherthen
11.
• Themembraneisexposedtowaterpressuregreaterthen150psi.
• Themembraneisallowed todryoutafteritsinitial wetting. (The
Membrane should always be kept moist after its initial exposure to
water)
• Ifthemembraneisexposedtogreaterthan1500PPMwater
BOOSTER PUMPS
Reverse Osmosis Booster Pumps are warranted for 90 days after the
date of purchase. If for any reason there is dissatisfaction with the pur-
chase of a booster pump within the 90 day period, a 100% refund of
the purchase price will be issued. The cost of returning the product
will be borne by the purchaser and the refund will be made when the
product is returned to Aquasafe.
WARRANTY CONDITIONS
•Shippingcosts toand fromthecompany,ofproducts tobeconsid-
ered for warranty, shall be borne by the purchaser unless otherwise
specied in the warranty conditions listed above.
• Any costs associated with removal or installation of the product
for warranty consideration shall be borne by the purchaser. Please
note that Aquasafe’s Reverse Osmosis Systems are designed as DIY
(Do It Yourself), therefore there should not be any costs associated
with removal or installation of this very simple to install system.
• Thiswarrantydoesnotapplytomechanicalorstructuraldamage
caused by: excessive water pressures over 150 psi, improper han-
dling, installation or abuse.
• Faucets and water ltration valves are warranted for a period of
one year only unless otherwise specied. This warranty applies to
manufacturing/material defects only.
• Allreplaceablewaterltrationcartridgesarewarrantedtobefree
from breakage/damage at the time delivery only.
• Thiswarranty doesnot applytoany partorcomponent thathas
been subject to misuse, neglect or altered in any such way that it’s
performance is aected.
• Thecompany“Aquasafe”acceptsnoliabilityfordamagecausedin
any way by the product after installation. The product should be
closely monitored after initial installation and installed in accor-
dance with plumbing codes in your area when and where appli-
cable.
• Waterltrationsysteminstallationinstructionsareprovidedonline.
These instructions are as a guide to the installer only and do not
supersede the plumbing codes in your respective areas when and
where applicable. Containment of these instructions does not con-
clude that the Company promotes or endorses self-installation, and
no liability will be assumed by the company for the installation.
• Noperson, representativeorrmis authorizedto commitAqua-
safe Systems to any further liability or obligation than those stated
on this form.
GENERAL CONDITIONS of WARRANTY
Damage to any part of a reverse osmosis system because of misuse;
misapplication; negligence; alteration; accident; installation; or opera-
tion contrary to our instructions, incompatibility with accessories not
provided by Aquasafe, or damage caused by freezing, ood, re, or
Act of God, is not covered by this warranty. In all such cases, regular
charges will apply.This warranty is void if the claimer is not the original
purchaser of the unit or if the unit is not operated under normal mu-
nicipal water or well water conditions.
We assume no warranty liability in connection with this reverse osmo-
sis system other than that specied herein.This warranty is in lieu of all
other warranties, expressed or implied, including warranties of tness
for a particular purpose. We do not authorize any person or representa-
tive to assume for us any other obligations on the sale of this reverse
osmosis system. Behind this product are years of research, design, and
production skills. Our reverse osmosis drinking water systems have
been carefully tested and approved. Through this warranty we are
demonstrating our condence in Aquasafe’s water lters and the qual-
ity our customers have come to expect from our 18+ years in business
providing the nest quality drinking water at pennies per liter for the
health and enjoyment of our long history of customers.
There has never been a greater need to be absolutely sure the water
we are consuming and giving to our children is free of all contami-
nants, toxins and drugs. The very best and most aordable way to en-
sure you and your loved ones are getting pure and healthy drinking
water is with a water purication system from Aquasafe.
Make the choice to avoid all dangers of tap water and its health haz-
ards by getting your very own reverse osmosis system today !
WATER SYSTEMS & PARTS WARRANTY INFORMATION
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