Carl Goldberg Products Gentle Lady ARF User manual

GENTLE LADY
CARL GOLDBERG PRODUCTS, LTD.
WARNING
While this aircraft is an excellent first choice for novice pilots, a radio-controlled model is not a toy and is not intended for
persons under 16 years old. Keep this kit out of the reach of younger children, as it contains parts that could be danger-
ous. A radio-controlled model is capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer’s respon-
sibility to build this kit correctly and to properly install the motor, radio, and all other equipment. Test and fly the finished
model only in the presence and with the assistance of another experienced R/C flyer. the model must always be operat-
ed and flown using great care and common sense, as well as in accordance with the Safety Code of the Academy of
Model Aeronautics (5151 Memorial Drive, Muncie, IN 47302), 1-800-435-9262). We suggest you join the AMA and
become properly insured prior to flying this model. Also, consult with the AMA or your local hobby dealer to find an
experienced instructor in your area. Per the Federal Communications Commission, you are required to use only those
radio frequencies specified “for Model Aircraft”.
P.O. Box 818 Oakwood, GA 30566 Phone # [phone] www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
The Gentle Lady ARF sailplane was designed to be a gentle trainer for the beginning R/C modeler, yet to possess competition
capability in the hands of the experienced glider pilot. As a very efficient machine, she reacts quickly to rising air ( called lift,
or thermals). To stay in the thermal, she can circle very tightly without falling off. The model has good penetration into the wind and
can really “cruise” when desired. Before starting to build, read through these instructions and familiarize yourself with this booklet.
The Gentle Lady ARF can be flown a number of ways: hand tow, high-start, slope soar, or power. The simplest method is hand
tow, which resembles towing a kite into the air. High-start is a combination of elastic cord and tow line. When stretched, the high-
start will gently tow the model up to an altitude of several hundred feet from which a flight of three minutes or more in dead air ( no
Thermals) can be obtained. A variation of the high-start is the more expensive powered winch, popular with glider clubs. If you live
near unobstructed hills or ridges, slope soaring is easily possible, so long as you have a suitable landing area. Hand launching the
model off the upwind side of the slope, directly into the wind, will enable you, with practice, to soar back and forth along the slope
in the rising air for as long as the wind remains. Finally, the use of power is an excellent option, and we include a firewall and
instructions on typical installations.
ARF
©Copyright 2003

2
Items needed to complete this kit.
1 Radio Guidance system( 2 channel
minimum required)

1 2oz. bottle CA glue

1 CA accelerator

1 30 minute epoxy

1 Box #64 Rubber bands.

1 1/4 x 8 x 12” CGP Foam Padding

CGP Scuff Guard ( To Protect Bottom From
Scratching)
For Engine Power
Engine, Propeller, Mounting Screws, and
Washers
Selecting Radio Control
Equipment
Radio sets are battery powered with either dry cells or the more
reliable, rechargeable nickel-cadmium (ni-cad) batteries.
Although ni-cad powered units are more expensive, the cost of
routinely replacing worn out batteries may be much higher in the
long run. Many of the radio systems now available feature
“servo reversing” switches which allow you to reverse the
response of the servo. This simplifies radio installation and is
worth considering. Exponential or dual rates are popular features
which , if used properly, can help smooth out the flight of a sen-
sitive model. Your local hobby dealer should be able to help you
select the proper radio for your needs and skill level. And be
sure to get a system designed for aircraft, as only certain fre-
quencies are available for model aircraft.
Necessary Tools and Supplies.

Roll of waxed Paper

Modeling Knife and Single Edge Razor Blade

Pins

Electric Drill

1/16” Drill Bit

Small Screwdriver

Masking Tape

Flexible Straight-Edge

30-60 Degree x 6” Triangle

Pencil
Limited Warranty
Carl Goldberg Products takes pride in the care and attention
given to the manufacture of components for its model airplane
kits. The company warrants replacement of any materials found
to be defective for their intended use, prior to their use in con-
struction of the aircraft, provided the buyers requests such
replacement within a 90 day period from the date of purchase
and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by
the company.
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the
company with respect to this kit. The buyer hereby assumes full
responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or proper-
ty damage or injury arising out of the buyer’s use of the compo-
nents of this kit.
The Gentle Lady Arf is covered in Oracover.
White 10
Cadmium Yellow 33
Orange 60
Dark Blue 52
Ferrari Red 23

3
Using This Instruction Manual
Before you start gluing take some time to look through this entire
instruction booklet. It is designed to guide you through the con-
struction process step by step, so build in the order given in this
book. Radio selection and installation, covering, and balancing
and flying the model are all covered.
Like a full-size airplane, the Gentle Lady is built from basic
structures (stabilizer, fin, wing, etc.), which are then assembled
into the complete airplane.
Special procedures or comments will usually be explained before
a step, so you will be prepared. If a step begins with a statement
like “Note,” “Warning,” or “Important,” it is a good idea to read
through the step before doing it.
A check-off box appears at the beginning of each step. Check
these boxes as you build, so you can tell at a glance what steps you
have completed.
Some of the instructions deal with general procedures. Boxes are
not needed for these sections.
Preparing For Assembly
You will need a area approximatly 18” x 36” in order to build the
Gentle Lady ARF. Place a sheet of waxed paper or plastic
kitchen wrap over the work area to prevent CA from sticking to
your table.
Construction Tips
If you have never assembled a built-up model before, the follow-
ing tips will prove helpful.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This
will alert you to coming instructions and will help you plan
accordingly.
You may find it convenient to empty all of the small parts from
the hardware bags into a common container, such as a margarine
tub. This will help you find items quickly.
When drilling any 1/16” holes in balsa, you may find it easier to
twist the drill between your thumb and index finger. This proce-
dure allows more control in positioning the drill on the center
mark.
Parts Identification
Nose Block
Hatch
Stabilizer
Left Wing Panel
Fin
Fuselage
Rudder
Right Wing Panel
Elevator
Additional Items included in the kit:
(2) Control Horns
(2) Control Horn Bases
(4) 2-56 x 1/2” Pan Head Screw
(2) Wire
(2) Snap Links
(2) Snap Link Retainers
(2) Pushrod Connectors
(1) Wood wing Joiner
Wing Assembly
1. Collect the following parts:
(1) Left wing panel
(1) Right wing panel
(1) Wing Joiner
2. Holding the wing joiner with the angle cut facing up,
insert them into the joiner pockets in both wing
halves. The joiners should fit easily in the pockets
and the wing halves should meet in the middle, with
the wing dihedral forming a broad "V".
3. Working on a protected surface, and with a paper
towel handy for cleaning fingers, THOROUGHLY
mix 1-2 large (soup) spoons each from bottle A and
bottle B of epoxy.(Use equal amount of each part
and mix with a stick in a plastic or paper cup, or on
a sheet of waxed paper.)

3. Trial fit the stab in place on the fuselage. Place a
piece of making tape across the fuselage in front of
were the stab mounts.
Measure across the fuselage and mark the center.
4. Place two strips of masking tape along the edge of
the stab, next to the both outer stab tips and above
the hinge line.
Using a T-square or triangle, draw a line from the
front center point of the stab to the rear hinge line.
Measure 9-1/2” out ("B") from each side of the cen-
terline and make a mark on the masking tape.
5. Measure from the marks on the stab to the polyhe-
dral breaks on the wing adjust as necessary to line
up with wing.
Mark the stab and fuse with matching line-up points.
4
Spread the epoxy in the joiner pockets and in the
dowel hole and spread a thin layer of epoxy along
one side of the entire center joint area.
Immediately proceed to the next step.
4. Working rapidly, so that the epoxy does not set
before you are finished, slide the wing joiner into
one wing pocket.
Then slide the wing halves together until they are
touching. Make sure the rear dowel slides into the
dowel hole.
5. With masking tape, tape the wing halves together at
the trailing edge and close to the leading edge, as
shown. This will help keep the wing from twisting.
Place additional tape at several locations across the
center seam of the wing, so that the halves stay
firmly together while the epoxy sets.
Allow the epoxy to dry thoroughly.
Note: Both outer wing tips should be 6-3/8” off the table
top.
Stab Assembly
1. Mount the wing on the fuselage using the rubber
bands provided
Measure carefully from the fuse sides out to the
polyhedral breaks (arrows ‘A’) to be sure that the
wing is centered.
2. Now measure from the polyhedral to the back end
of the fuselage(arrow ‘B’) to make sure wing is
square to the fuselage.
Mark the wing and the fuselage with matching line-
up points.
1. Collect the following parts:
(1) Fuselage
(1) Stabilizer
(1) Fin
(1) Control Horn
(2) Screws
7. Make sure the stab is level (parallel) with the wing
and insert paper strip shims, if necessary.
Elevator Mark
8. When satisfied with the alignment of the stab, tem-
porarily tape securely in place.
Turn over the plane and mark the area on the bot-
tom of the stab where it rests on the fuse.

5
Remove the stab from the fuse and, working 1/4"
inside the drawn lines, carefully remove the cover-
ing from the bottom of the stab. BE CAREFUL TO
AVOID CUTTING THE WOOD
Mark the center of the elevator and remove the ele-
vator from the stab
9. Spread epoxy on both the bottom of the stab and
the stab platform of the fuse.
Replace the stab on the platform and, after again
checking the alignment of the stab to the wing, allow
the epoxy to dry thoroughly.
1.Collect the following items:
(1) Fin
(1) fuselage
(1) Control Horn
(2) Screws
2. Slide the fin mounting posts into the top of the stab.
Check the fit. The fin should fit easily into each slot
and should stand upright by itself. Enlarge the
holes, if necessary.
3. As shown above, mark where the fin touches the
fuselage.
Fin Assembly
4. With the rudder sitting on the fin, as shown, place
the horn on the bottom of the rudder.
Mark the holes.
Drill the holes for the control horn.
Again using two machine screws, secure the control
horn to the rudder.
4. Place the control horn on the bottom of the elevator
over the center mark you made.
Mark the screw hole locations.
Drill the holes for the control horn.
Using two machine screws, secure the control horn
to the elevator.
Remove the rudder from the fin and set to the side.
TAKING CARE NOT TO CUT INTO THE WOOD
STRUCTURE UNDERNEATH, and working inside
the drawn lines, carefully remove the covering
where the fin mounts on the fuse and stab.
Stab
Fin
Fuselage
5. Remount the fin on the fuse and, using a 90º trian-
gle, make sure the fin is perpendicular to the stab.
When satisfied with the fit, remove fin and mix up a
couple of spoonfuls of epoxy.
Apply a THIN, even coat of epoxy on the bottom of
the fin and along both sides of the fin mounting
posts. Avoid too much glue, which will squeeze out
from underneath the fin.
Mount the fin on the fuse and place the triangle
against the fin to make sure it is perpendicular.

6
Mounting Rudder and
Elevator
1. Collect the following items:
(1) Rudder with control horn
(1) fuselage
(1) Elevator with control horn
(2) long wire with “Z” bends
(7) Hinges
1. Remount the the hinges back into the rudder. Place
one of the long wires onto the control horn using the
“Z” bend.
Use masking tape to secure the fin and triangle in
position until the epoxy is thoroughly dry. Make sure
not to glue the triangle!
Rudder Pushrod
Exit Hole
Elevator
Pushrod
Exit Hole
Rear of Fuselage
Installing the Radio
1. Collect the following items:
(2) Servos with screws(Supplied with Radio)
(2) Servo Arms
(1) fuselage
(2) Pushrod connector
(2) Nylon Snap Nut
(2) Set Screws
2. Insert the wire into the hole on the top of the fuse-
lage and slide the wire down into the tube.
3. Insert the hinges into the slots of the fin.
Hint: Place a pin in the center of the hinge so that
the hinge will insert half way into the fin and the rud-
der.
When satisfied with the fit then place one drop of
thin CA glue on each side of all the hinges.
Remove the pins and set aside for about 10 min-
utes.
Repeat this process for the elevator. DO NOT FOR-
GET THE WIRE.
Nose
1. Mount your servos as shown above.
2. Insert the Pushrod connector through the hole on
the servo arm and install the snap nut on the bottom
as shown above.
3. Slide the rudder pushrod wire through the hole and
mount the servo arm on the rudder servo.
Hint: Do not screw the servo arm on the servo at
this time.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the elevator servo arm.
4. Place tape on both the elevator and the rudder to
hold them both straight and level to the fin and sta-
bilizer.
Rudder Servo
Elevator Servo
Set Screw
Push Rod Connector
Nylon Set Nut
Cut Off Extra Arms

7
Making sure that the servo arms are as shown
above. Insert the set screw into the top of the
pushrod connecter and tighten onto wire.
5.Take the wires from both of the servos and
insert them through the front fromer hole.
6. Place the receiver in the front of the servos.
Plug the servos into the receiver as shown in
your radio instructions.
7.Carefully cut through the side of the fuselage
and mount your receiver switch as shown.
Plug the switch into the receiver as shown in
your radio instructions.
Wrap the receiver and the battery pack in foam
and place in the nose. Plug the battery into the
switch.
Take off the servo arms from that top of the
servos then remove the masking tape from the
rudder and the elevator. Turn on the radio and
let the servos move to center Re-mount the
servo arms so that the elevator and rudder are
stright. Screw the servo arms into the servos.
Radio Installation Cut Away View

8
Optional Engine or Tow Hook installation
Now is the time to decide if you are going to fly the Gentle Lady ARF with a glow engine (.049 to
.061) or with a Hi Start tow line. Either method will work well with the Gentle Lady.
Tow Hook Installation
1. Measure back from the firewall 10-3/4” and make a
mark.
Measure across the width of the fuselage at that
mark and find the center of the fuselage.
Drill a 1/8” hole at the mark in the center of the fuse-
lage.
Centered
10-3/4” back from firewall
Tow Hook
Nut
Washer
Washer
Nut
Install the tow hook like shown above
Tail
Engine Installation
Correct
Incorrect
Glue the nose cone on the front of the fuselage.
Make sure the you mount the nose cone on the cor-
rect way.
1. Center the engine on the firewall doubler
Mark engine hole mounting locations.
mix up some epoxy and place some onto the fire-
wall doubler.
Hold the firewall onto the fuselage with masking
tape till the epoxy has dried.
2. When the epoxy dries drill 1/16” holes at the marks
for the engine mounting.
Screw the engine to the firewall.
Hint: Paint the firewall before you mount your
engine using fuel proof paint. You can also coat
the firewall with CA glue. This will help prevent
fuel from soaking into the wood while the engine
is running.
Fuselage Bottom
Make sure you read your engine instructions
to know what fuel and propeller is recom-
mended for you engine.
Firewall Doubler
Mounting Nose Cone

9
With everything installed, mount the wing and carefully
check the Center of Gravity (CG). One way is to perch the
model on the thumb and forefinger of your left hand (if
you’re right handed), while steadying the model with the
other. A much better way is to use a balancing set-up,
which can be made with a couple of 1/4” dowels with
rounded tops, spaced just enough apart to clear the fuse.
Mark the desired CG on the underside of the wing, and
then set the model on the dowels at that location. Add
weight if necessary for balance. The least weight is
needed when added as far forward or back as possible.
DO NOT attempt to fly the model with the CG EVEN
SLIGHTLY BEHIND the rearmost recommended
position.
Before going to the field to fly, with batteries fully
charged, turn on receiver and transmitter and actuate all
controls many times until you are satisfied with all
functions.
Prior to the beginning of each day’s flying, make a
range check of your equipment in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions in general, with antenna
collapsed, you should have at least 100 feet range on the
ground. To check this, set the model facing away from
you, turn on both the transmitter and receiver switches, and
walk away while transmitting signals. Watch to see that no
signals are missed until you are at least 100 feet away. Do
not attempt any flights unless the equipment works perfectly.
Be careful not to use your transmitter when someone
else on the field is flying or testing on the same frequency.
RADIO CHECK
BALANCING ( Center of Gravity)
While the wing is rubber banded in place on the fuselage measure back from the
leading edge of the wing 3-1/2” to 3-3/4” to find the center of gravity.

10
Flying R/C is both fun and challenging. As with other por-
tions of this book, the following section is meant to intro-
duce you to the basics. Read carefully before taking your
model out to the field and attempting first flights. And
remember, becoming an R/C pilot takes time and
patience, but the rewards are well worth the effort.
Equipment Checklist
Flight batteries, fully charged
Radio transmitter
Tools for tightening any parts that can vibrate and
loosen
Extra #64 rubber bands
Bottle of Super Jet™
CHECK YOUR EQUIPMENT
Prior to going to the flying field, with radio batteries fully
charged, turn on both receiver (Rx) and transmitter (Tx)
and actuate all controls many times until you are satis-
fied with all functions.
Before beginning each day's flying, make a range
check of your equipment in accordance with the manu-
facturer's instructions. In general, with transmitter
antenna collapsed to 6"-8", you should have an at least
100 foot range on the ground. To check this, turn on
both the transmitter and the receiver switches, set the
model heading away from you, and walk away while
transmitting signals to move the control surfaces.
Watch to see that no signals are missed until you are
at least 100 feet away. Only if the equipment works
perfectly should any flights be attempted. Again, be
careful to not use your transmitter when anyone
else at the field is flying or testing on the same fre-
quency!
After the range check, stand behind the model and
make sure the control responses are correct. Moving
the control stick to the right should give right rudder (on
a 3-channel set-up) . Moving the stick back or down on
the Tx should move the elevator up, and vice versa.
Finally, make sure that everything on your aircraft is
neatly and firmly in place-motor fastened down, servos
snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam
rubber, etc. The receiver antenna must be extended,
not coiled up inside the model. Nothing should be
loose, or unfinished, or unchecked.
With transmitter and receiver switched on, hand launch
the model directly into the wind. Gently correct the
flight path as necessary. If any adjustments are need-
ed to maintain straight and level flight, get experienced
help to move the clevises.
In flight control. most of the beginner's trouble comes
from over-controlling or holding a signal too long. It is
better to operate your transmitter slowly and smoothly.
A troublesome tendency is letting the model get down-
wind. New flyers should try to keep the model upwind
at all times prior to the landing approach.
If you are a novice, seek the help of an experienced
flyer. Do not hesitate to ask one of the better flyers at
the field for help. Usually, they are glad to spend a lit-
tle time to get somebody started right, and they very
likely were helped in the same manner themselves.
An experienced R/C flight instructor is strongly recommended for learning how to fly.
Learning To Fly

11
WHERE TO FLY
Fly only in areas sanctioned for R/C and known to be
free of radio interference. Ask your hobby dealer or
other modelers if there is an R/C flying field that is used
by a local R/C club. This is the ideal place to fly. If you
don't know of an R/C club nearby, contact the Academy
of Model Aeronautics (AMA), at the address on the
front of this booklet, for information on a club in your
area. Remember: R/C flying fields need to have rules
to help prevent accidents, so ask about them before
you turn on any of your equipment! DO NOT TEST
your transmitter in the parking lot or anywhere
nearby until you are sure no one else is using your
radio frequency. This could cause another flyer to
crash and make you very unpopular!
If there is no club or other R/C flying site available,
locate a square area (preferably a grassy field), at least
four or five football fields long, which is free of power
lines, trees, poles, houses, busy streets and other
obstructions. It must be at least three miles away from
any areas where other R/C models, such as boats or
cars, are operated. It should also have a relatively
smooth surface, as it will take practice to learn preci-
sion landings. If you find a suitable location, turn your
receiver on for 2 or 3 minutes to check that no one in
the vicinity is operating an R/C device which could
affect your receiver and cause your plane to crash.
a diameter of as much as 1000 feet. Thermals tend to
originate at fixed locations, such as plowed fields, park-
ing lots, or paved road - anywhere that the temperature
of the surface is likely to vary from the temperature of
surrounding areas. Thermals are also known to be
cyclic and, depending on the conditions, can be gener-
ated fairly regularly. It is appears that the time between
the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., when the sun is
at its highest angle, are the most productive. Keep all
of this in mind while flying at your particular flying site.
Thermals can achieve very fast rates of climb.
Coupling this fact with the potentially large diameter, it
is easy to see how one might find it difficult to escape
the clutches of a real "boomer."
The strategy for thermal flying is basic. Launch your
Gentle Lady ARF via a high-start, winch, or hand-tow
and start searching for a thermal in areas likely to be a
good thermal generator. Watch your model for signs of
vertical movement or buoyancy. Keep flying in this
area, using a series of large flat turns to find where the
thermal is the strongest. Once you've located the cen-
ter, circle tighter to keep your model in the fastest rate
of climb. If there is any wind, drift downwind with the
thermal, but since you will be climbing and going down-
wind simultaneously, don't get carried away! With luck
and a good battery pack, you can stay up for hours,
using new thermals to extend your flight time. When
you've had enough, simply point the nose upwind and
slightly down and fly out of the thermal.
THERMAL FLYING
Thermal soaring is a very popular activity which you
can enjoy with your Gentle Lady ARF. But before you
start launching, let's take a few moments to discuss
what a thermal is and how to use it.
A column of warm air rising from the earth's surface is
known as a thermal. Such columns are generated by
the sun's uneven heating of the earth and they can
reach altitudes in excess of 4000 feet. They can have
RISING AIR
TYPICAL THERMAL
TOW RELEASE
800'-1000'
WHILE LEARNING TO FLY, YOU
MAY FEEL BETTER ABLE TO
CONTROL THE MODEL, AS IT
COMES TOWARD YOU, BY
FACING YOUR BODY IN THE
SAME DIRECTION AS THE
MODEL IS FLYING AND LOOK-
ING OVER YOUR SHOULDER.

12
SLOPE FLYING
Slope soaring is a nice divergence from thermal flying. For a slope to be effective, the wind should, for the most part,
blow directly into the face of the slope. Wind velocity is not as critical, but there should be some wind. Also, it is not
necessary to be atop Mt. Everest to have slope effect. You can get some pretty good effects from areas that may
surprise you, so it pays to try out even a small elevation in your area.
With the wind in your face, throw your model down the slope into the wind. Once it is out into the slope lift, the model
will rise and seem to maintain a consistent altitude. Fly back and forth parallel to the face of the slope, always mak-
ing turns away from the slope face. This will ensure that your model will not be blown behind the slope, where the
air is very turbulent and may cause the plane to crash.
SEVERE TURBULENCE AND
DOWNDRAFT
AREA OF INTENSE LIFT
WIND

13
GENERAL FLYING TIPS & LANDINGS
While flying your pattern, try to maintain shall turns. Remember that the wind will tend to blow your plane further
downwind. To compensate for the the wind, make upwind (flying into the wind) turns shallow and downwind turns a
little steeper. It is more difficult to fly a model when it is downwind and if a mistake is made, it will be more difficult
to fly back to the field.
You may wish to add ballast to your model for better wind penetration. If so, add the weight (perhaps starting with
6-8 ounces) at the center of gravity, making sure the weight is securely attached inside the model. Loose ballanst
can destroy a modle in rough conditions.
Landings can be a little tricky at first, but with experience can be mastered. Make your approach from either side,
keeping the nose of the model parallel to the wind. Bring the model gently up to the slope. When it is hovering 1 to
2 feet from the ground, apply down elevator to slow the model down and land. This is a little different than a normal
type of landing, where you let the model float onto the gound.