Carl Goldberg Products Wild Stick .40 User manual

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P.O. Box 818, Oakwood, GA 30566 • 678-450-0085 • Fax: [phone] • www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
©copyright 2004 Carl Goldberg Products.
Wild Stick .40
Wild Stick .40

2
Wild Stick .40
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
THIS IS NOT A BEGINNERS AIRPLANE
This R/C kit and the model you will build from it is not a toy! It is capable of
serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility, and yours
alone - to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and
flying gear (engine, tank, radio, pushrods, etc. and to test the model and fly
it only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accor-
dance with all safety standards as set forth in the Academy of Model
Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA and become
properly insured before attempting to fly this model. If you are just starting
R/C modeling, consult your local hobby dealer or write to the Academy of
Model Aeronautics to find an experienced instructor in your area.
Write to: Academy of Model Aeronautics, 5151 Memorial Dr. Muncie, IN
47302
LIMITED WARRANTY
Carl Goldberg Products is proud of the care and attention that goes into
the manufacture of parts for its model kits. The company warrants that for
a period of 90 days, it will replace, at the buyers request, any part or materi-
al shown to the company's satisfaction to have been defective in workman-
ship or material at the time of purchase.
No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to
the merchandise sold by the company. The buyer acknowledges and under-
stands that he is purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will
himself construct a finished flying model airplane. The company is neither
the manufacturer of such a flying model airplane, nor a seller of it. The
buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for personal or property dam-
age or injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or the finished
flying model airplane, whenever any such damage or injury shall occur.
Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the
contract of sale to the buyer, or on any alleged warranty there under, must
be brought within one year of the date of such sale, or there after be
barred. This one-year limitation is imposed by agreement of the parties as per-
mitted by the laws of the state of Georgia.
Important Information
Covering coming loose is not COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. Due to tempera-
ture changes the plane may develop some wrinkles in the covering that you
will need to remove with an iron. Be sure to seal the edges down first so that
you do not cause the covering to shrink and leave exposed areas of wood.
Please inspect the plane before beginning to assemble to make sure you are
happy with it. After assembly has begun you cannot return the kit. If you find
a problem before beginning to assemble the plane you must contact us,
please do not return it to the dealer.

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Wild Stick .40
Wild Stick .40
Wild Stick .40
Congratulations on your purchase of the Lanier Wild Stick .40. This is a very
unique aircraft, with great 3-D capabilities. Every effort has been made to
produce a lightweight, straight, easy to assemble aircraft. Because of its
oversize control surfaces which are double beveled to allow for extreme
throws, great care must be taken in the set-up and flying of this airplane.
Quality hardware components have been provided to allow for 3D set-up
while maintaining adequate mechanical advantage to eliminate flutter. It is
you responsibility as an advanced pilot to fly the aircraft in an intelligent
manner. THROTTLE MANAGEMENT IS A MUST!!!!!!!! We at Lanier have put the
Wild Stick .40 through a very rigorous flight-testing schedule and have
stressed the airframe beyond all practical parameters without a single fail-
ure. Lanier will NOT warrant the Wild Stick .40against flutter due to improp-
er set-up or excessive speed maneuvers. having said that, we believe you will
find the Wild Stick .40 to be one of the most responsive, in-the-grove aircraft
on the market. The Wild Stick .40 excels at high-alpha maneuvers including
Harriers (both upright and inverted), high-alpha rolls, and high-alpha knife
edge. Torque rolls, waterfalls, knife edge loops and elevators are all within
the performance parameters of this unique aircraft. Just remember to use
common sense when flying this high performance machine.

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Wild Stick .40
Parts Layout
(1) Fuselage 1
(2) Wing Halves 2
(3) Ailerons 4
(4) Stabilizer 1
(5) Elevator Halves 2
(6) Fin 1
(7) Rudder 1
(8) Landing Gear 1
(9) Dihedral Brace 1

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Wild Stick .40
tail wheel bracket 1
2mm wheel collar for tail wheel 1
25mm tail wheel
2.5mmx10mm screws 3
flat washers 3
Landing gear 1
2-1/2” wheels 2
4mm axels 2
4mm aircraft lock nuts 2
4mm wheel collars 4
4mmx13mm bolts 4
4mm flat washers 6
fuel tank with hardware 1
Motor mounts 2
4mmx17mm screws 4
4mm blind nuts 4
3mmx20mm screws 4
3mm lock nuts 4
3mm flat washers 8
Nylon Control horns w/plates 8
2mmx16mm Bolts 16
2mm nuts 2
Silicone clevis retainers 8
Wing Bolts
4mmx30mm bolts 2
4mm flat washers 2
1.5mmx16" throttle pushrod 1
nylon sleeve for throttle rod 1
Elevator pushrod
14” dowel 1
e-z connector body 1
e-z connector screw 1
snap nut 1
Pushrods
2mmx12” pushrods with clevis 8
Nylon swing in keepers 8

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Wild Stick .40
BUILDING
INSTRUCTIONS
Before starting to build this kit, we
urge you to read through these
instructions. They contain some
important building sequences as well
as instructions and warnings con-
cerning the assembly and use of the
model.
We expect that you have some build-
ing experience to take on this model.
However, every minute detail is not
covered. This is not a basic trainer.
The instructions together with the
simplicity of this kit will allow you to
produce a first class Wild Stick 3-D.
BUILDING SUPPLIES NEEDED
Hobby knife w/ #11 blade
Thin Zap CA
30 Minute Z-poxy
Thread lock
Wire cutters
Pliers
Drill with bits: 1/8", 5/32", 1/16”
5/64”
Phillips and standard screwdriver
Small clamps
Masking tape
Tape measure
Washable marker
Paper towels
Rubbing alcohol
See the list at the end of the instruc-
tion book for a list of additional R/C
equipment you will need to complete
the Wild Stick .40.
Wing Construction
Collect the following parts:
1. left and right wing panel
2. dihedral brace
3. wing holddown bolts(2)
1. Trial fit the dihedral brace in the
slot on one wing. The wing is flat (no
dihedral) so the brace should fit
either way. Slide the other wing
panel in place and make sure the
joint in the center is closed.
2. Mix some 30 minute epoxy and
spread on all sides of the dihedral
brace, front back and edges.

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Wild Stick .40
3. Spread epoxy on the root rib of
each wing panel. Use a thin scrap of
wood and work some of the epoxy
down into the slots for the dihedral
brace on each panel.
4. Use masking tape to hold the wing
panels firmly together while the
epoxy set. Lay the wing flat on the
floor or work bench while the epoxy
cures. Do not stand the wing on one
tip, all the glue will run to one end
and give you a poor joint.
5. locate the two 4mm x 45mm bolts
and two 4mm flat washers.
6. After the epoxy has cured, bolt the
wing in place on the fuselage..
Tail construction
locate the following parts;
1. stabilizer with elevators
2. Fin with rudder
3. Nylon control horns
4. nylon nut plates
5. 2mm x 20mm screws
6. Silicone clevis keepers
1. locate the control horns on the
inside edge of the elevators on the
bottom side. make sure the holes for
the clevis are aligned over the hinge
line. Mark the location of the holes
and drill a 3/32” hole at the four
locations. use the 2mm screws and
nut plates to mount the control
horns.

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Wild Stick .40
Align holes over
hinge line
2. Remove the elevators from the
stab and make sure all the hinges are
centered in the slots. To make sure
the hinges are centered, use a
straight pin in the middle of the hinge
when pushing the elevator onto the
stab.
3. Flex the elevator to the full
extent of its travel in one direction.
make sure the hinge line stays closed
as close as possible. Apply a drop of
thin CA to each hinge. Turn the stab
over, flex the elevator to the full
travel in the other direction and
apply glue to each hinge. go back and
apply another drop of glue to each
hinge.
4. Set the stab in place in the slot on
the rear of the fuselage.
5. measure the stab to make sure it is
centered in the fuselage. Make sure
the slot for the fin in centered on
the fuselage. Move the stab until
dimension X-X are the same. This will
have the stab square to the fuselage.
6. When you have the stab square to
the fuselage, make a mark along the
side of the fuselage on the bottom of
the stab.

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Wild Stick .40
7. use a razor blade or e-xacto knife
to carefully remove the covering
inside the marks on the bottom of the
stab. Cut carefully so as not to cut
the wood, just the covering.
8. mix some 30 minute epoxy and apply
to the bare wood on the bottom of
the stab and in the slot on the rear
of the fuse. Reinstall the stab and
check to make sure it is square. use
pins to hold in place. Check the
alignment with the wing by sighting
from the front and rear. Apply pres-
sure to one side if necessary to make
stab parallel to wing.
remove covering
9. Remove the covering from the bot-
tom portion of the rudder where it
plugs into the stab.
remove covering
10. Fit the fin in place and make a
mark around it. Remove the covering
inside the marks on both the stab and
the rear portion of the fuselage
behind the stab.

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Wild Stick .40
11. Epoxy the fin in place making sure
it is square to the stab and centered
on the fuselage in the rear.
landing Gear
Collect the following parts:
1. Tail wheel bracket
2. Tail wheel
3. Wheel collar
4. Three 2mm screws
5. Three 2mm washers
1. place the tail wheel bracket on
the bottom of the fuselage with the
tiller are flush against the rear of
the fuselage and centered.
2. Drill a 1/16” hole at the three
holes in the tail wheel bracket.
3. Use the three 2mm screws and
washers to mount the tail wheel
bracket.
4. Install the tail wheel using wheel
collar.
locate the following parts:
1. landing gear
2. Two wheels
3. Two axels
4. two axel nuts
5. Four wheel collars
6. Six flat washers
7. Four mm screws

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Wild Stick .40
5. Fit the landing gear to the bottom
of the fuselage and install the four
screws and flat washers. Use lock-
tite on the screws.
6. install the axels using the aircraft
lock nuts.
7. install the wheels using one wheel
collar on the inside and one on the
outside of the wheel.
Rudder installation
1. install two control horns on the
rudder with the bottom edge of the
control horn flush with the bottom
edge of the rudder. use two 2mm
screws with nuts to mount the two
horns.

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Wild Stick .40
tail wheel
tiller arm
into rudder
2. locate the position of the tail
wheel tiller arm and drill a 3/32’
hole. Cut a slot from the hole to the
bottom of the rudder to accept the
wire. Apply a small amount of epoxy
in the hole and fit the rudder in place
on the hinges. Use straight pin to
keep the hinges center as we did on
the elevators.
3. Deflect the rudder to the full
extent of its travel and make sure
the hinge line is closed. make sure the
rudder counter balance clears the
top of the fin and does hit it as it
swings from side to side. Apply a drop
of thin CA to each hinge. Deflect the
rudder in the opposite direction and
apply another drop of glue to each
hinge on the opposite side.
Engine Installation
locate the following parts:
1. Two motor mounts
2. Four 4mmx25mm screws
3. Four 4mm blind nuts
4. Four 4mmx35mm bolts
5. Four 4mm aircraft lock nuts.
6. 8 4mm flat washers
1. Clamp your engine to the two
motor mount making sure that both
sides of the mounts sit squarely on
the table. Make sure the engine is not
offset to the left or right in the
mount. Mark the location of the four
holes.
2. Drill four holes and mount the
engine using the four 4mm bolts and
aircraft lock nuts.

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Wild Stick .40
3. Center the engine on the firewall
and mark the location of the four
mounting bolts.
4. install the four blind nuts in the
firewall. The best way to install the
nuts is to use a piece of wire to pull
the nuts into place .
5. pull the nuts up with the wire then
install the bolt and washer through
the hole and tighten to finish pulling
the blind nut into the hole.
6.After all four nut are pulled tight,
install the engine using the four 4mm
bolts and washers. Use lock tite on
the bolts.
Radio Installation
1. For the Ailerons you will need
four servos and two 12” servo exten-
sions.

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Wild Stick .40
2. install the servos using the hard-
ware supplied with the radio. Use the
stings installed in the wing to pull
the wires through to the center of
the wing.
3. hinge the ailerons using the same
method used on the elevators. Center
all hinges and use thin CA to glue in
place making sure you have full
deflection in both directions and a
tight hinge line.
4. Use a straight edge to mark the
location of the four aileron horns in
line with the output arm. install the
four horns using the 2mm bolts and
nylon plates. Align over the hinge
line as we did on the elevators.

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Wild Stick .40
5. Locate one of the 2mm pushrods,
metal clevis, silicone clevis keeper,
and nylon swing in keeper. Make sure
the clevis is screwed on the pushrod
with about 1/16” of threads showing
on the inside of the clevis. Install the
clevis on the control horn. make
sure the servo is centered and the
aileron is in neutral. Mark the loca-
tion of the wire where it crosses the
control horn and bend at a 90 degree
angle. Cut the angle off at 3/8”.
Install the pushrod in the control
horn and retain using the nylon
swing in keeper.
6. Install the rudder servo in the bot-
tom of the fuselage at the rear using
hardware supplied with radio.
7. Install the rudder pushrods the
same way we installed the aileron
pushrod. Locate two 2mm x 30cm
pushrods, install the clevises on the
horns, center the rudder and servo.
Mark the bend at the servo end and
bend 90 degrees. Cut off at 3/8”.
Install in servo arm and retain with
nylon swing in keeper.

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Wild Stick .40
8. Install the elevator servo, throt-
tle servo and switch in the cutouts
provided in the servo tray.
9. use a long 3/16” drill and drill a
hole in the firewall in line with the
throttle are.
10. Bend a 90 degree angle in the end
of the throttle pushrod and cut at
3/8”. Attach to the throttle arm and
retain with a nylon swing in keeper.
11. locate the pushrod connector
and attach it to a servo arm. It has a
washer on top of the arm, the bottom
of the arm, then install nut. Use a
drop of CA glue on nut to make sure
it does not come loose. Make sure the
pushrod connector will rotate in the
servo arm.

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Wild Stick .40
12. Slide the 5mm plastic tube on the
throttle pushrod until it extends
1/4” through the firewall. Install
the pushrod connector on the servo.
Open the throttle full and set the
throttle servo to full. Tighten the
set screw on the pushrod connector
onto the pushrod. Cut the pushrod
off about 1/4” pass the connector.
The throttle can be adjusted by loos-
ening the screw on the pushrod con-
nector if necessary.
nylon tube
13. Locate the 14” wooden dowel,
two 12” threaded rods with clevis,
one 6” piece of 2mm wire, and two
pieces of Shrink tubing.
14. Take the two pushrods and bend a
90 degree angle at 8-1/2” on one and
8-11/16” on the other. The difference
in length will make the ends even
after you install them in the holes in
the wooden dowel.
15. insert the ends of the pushrods in
the pre-drilled holes in the dowel
with the short one in the rear most
hole.
16. Glue in place with CA glue then
install the shrink tubing and shrink it
tight.
17. Bend the pushrods out until the
clevises are about 2-1/2” apart.

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Wild Stick .40
19. Install the pushrod in the fuse-
lage guiding the rods out each side of
the fuselage in the slots provided.
20. Connect the clevis to the horn on
both sides with the silicone keeper
installed.
18. Install the 6” piece of wire on the
other end of the dowel and glue in
place. Install the heat shrink tube.
21. Center the servo arm, make sure
the elevators are centered and mark
the wire on the control arm. Bend 90
degrees and cut at 3/8”. Install in
servo arm and retain with nylon
swing in keeper.
Fuel Tank
1. Locate the fuel tank and hard-
ware.
2. Assemble the tank cap with the big
washer, the rubber stopper, and the
little washer in the rear. For a two
line system we will only use the long
piece of aluminum tube and one short
one.
3.Insert the tubes through the stop-
per and attach the silicone tubing on
the short one. Cut the tubing so that
when the clunk is attached it will be
about 1/4” off the bottom of the
tank when held vertically. Leave the
tubes out the front of the cap about
3/4” and bend the long tube at a 45
degree angle so it goes to the top of
the tank when installed.

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Wild Stick .40
4.Install stopper in tank and tighten
the bolt in the center until stopper is
snug. Don’t over tighten. Clunk
should move freely and vent tube
should be to the top of the tank.
5. Install the tank in the fuselage
with the cap in the hole in the fire-
wall.
6. If necessary for balance , the bat-
tery can be installed under the tank
before it is installed.
7. Install the receiver and battery (if
necessary) in the area in front of
servo tray and behind tank. use form
around receiver.
Final Setup
The CG should be between 4” and 4-
1/2” behind the leading edge of the
wing.
The control throws should be :
Elevator Low Rate +or- 1”
High Rate All you can get
Ailerons Low Rate +or- 1/2”
High Rate All you can get
Rudder Low Rate +or- 2”
High Rate All you can get
The four aileron setup gives you sev-
eral options. If you want to fly the
plane in a normal setup, just use
three y-connectors and connect all
four aileron servos into the aileron
channel. This will give a normal
aileron setup. Because of the large
size the roll rate will be really
rapid. If you want just flaps and
ailerons you can use two y-connec-
tors and plug the two outside servos
into the aileron channel and the two
inboard into the flap channel.
If you have a computer radio you can
explore several other flight modes.
In the following modes you will need
to plug all four aileron servos into
different channels. Consult you
radio manual for the proper chan-
nels.
(1). Flaperons. in this mode you will
couple the two inboard aileron ser-
vos with the elevator servo. Adjust
the radio so that up elevator causes
both flaps to go down, down eleva-
tor will cause the flaps to go up. This
set up allows very tight loops and
very square corners.

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Wild Stick .40
(2). Crow. In this mode the two out-
board ailerons move to the up posi-
tion and the flaps move to the down
position. This is a very high drag con-
dition and will allow you to make
very steep descents, then slow to a
crawl to land. It is also used to do
the “Harrier”. In this maneuver you
slow the plane down, flip the switch
for the crow configuration, and
slowly feed in full up elevator. The
plane will get into a very high angle
of attack , 50 to 60 degrees. you will
have to use the throttle to maintain
the attitude. The crow set-up make
the plane very stable in this attitude.
It is recommended that before trying
these different modes that you fly
the plane with a standard set-up to
get used to the plane. When turning
on the different flight modes be sure
to have plenty of altitude for your
first tries. Because of the large con-
trol surfaces, the plane can get out
of control very quickly if you are not
ready for it or if you have something
not set up correctly. If the flight
modes are not set-up correctly, the
plane could be unflyable in that con-
figuration, so be ready to turn it off
if you cannot handle it.
Thank you buying the Wild Stick .40
so go have some fun.
The colors used on your Wild Stick
are matched to Ultra Coat:
True Red #866
Black # 804
Bright Yellow #872
To complete your plane you will need
a motor, .40 to .50 two stroke or .50
to .70 four stroke. You will need the
appropriate size prop for the engine
you choose plus a spinner nut or 2”
to 2-1/2” spinner. You will need a 5
channel radio plus 7 servos. It will
require two 12” servo extention
wires and two y-connectors. You will
need about 12” of fuel line to con-
nect from the tank to the engine.