Connoisseur Models GWR MACAW H User manual

GWR MACAW H Bogie Bolster Diagram J30
British Railways Bogie Bolster A
Connoisseur Models, 33 Grampian Road, Penfields, Stourbridge, DY8 4UE, Tel [phone]
Twenty of these 25 ton, 35 foot long bogie bolsters
were built in 1941 by the Great Western Railway to
diagram J30. They were a continuation of the 285
virtually identical wagons built to diagram J25 from
1927 onwards.
The wagons continued in service with British
Railways into the 1970’s and were designated
Bogie Bolster A.
Wheels are required to complete the model.
When first built 3’1” 8 spoke were fitted (Slater’s No
7121) many wagons were later fitted with three hole
disc wheels (Slater’s No 7122). Available from
Slater’s, Temple Road, Matlock Bath, Derbyshire,
DE4 3PG, Tel [phone].

General Instructions
Please read this section carefully, especially if this is your first etched
brass kit. Many modellers fight shy of working in this medium, but the
basic skills are relatively easy to acquire. Once you’ve learned how to
form and solder brass, you’ll find all kinds of modelling possibilities will
open up for you.
Assembling an etched kit involves exactly the same skills that a
scratchbuilder uses – the only difference is that the cutting out of the
parts is already done for you. Some filing and trimming will, however,
be necessary from time to time. Where this is the case, I have
highlighted it in the instructions.
The main skill to master is soldering and I would recommend a Weller
40 Watt soldering iron. This has a 6mm diameter, removable copper
bit. The bit is shaped like a screwdriver and has a bright coating of
solder (tinned). This combination of iron and bit shape is ideal for
running fillet joints and has a good reserve of heat, that is necessary
for soldering small parts on to large components. Note the shape and
condition of a new bit, as this won’t last long and will need restoring
back to this condition.
It is important to keep the bit clean and in good condition as you
work. Get a soldering iron stand containing a damp sponge; old
oxidized solder is wiped off on this before picking up fresh solder for
each joint. If you haven’t made a joint for some time you may find that
a hard black crust has formed on the bit. Remove this with a brass wire
brush (suede brush) and then feed some multicore solder onto each
side of the bit to restore a bright surface (referred to as wetting or
tinning the bit). After about 8 hours use you will find the bit is in poor
condition, with holes and a ragged edge. File the bit back to its original
shape using a hand bastard file and then polish the surfaces on emery
cloth. Coat the bit with Fluxite Soldering Paste (traditionally used by
plumbers) and this will prevent the bare copper oxidizing as the iron
heats up. Then feed multicore solder onto the bit to form a generous
coating and leave to bubble away for a couple of minutes before
wiping excess off to give a bit almost as good as new.
A smaller Antex 25 Watt iron with a 3.2mm screwdriver bit is very
useful for small assemblies and detail work such as handrails, but will
have insufficient heat reserve for main assembly work. The Antex has
a plated iron bit, after a little use with 145° solder a grey oxide appears
on the bit that will prevent you from picking up the solder. Touch the bit
to some multicore solder and it will flash over the bit, wetting it so that
you can continue picking up 145° solder. I have found no problems
with mixing the two solders in this way.
I use 145° solder for virtually all assembly work. I prefer it in wire
form, available from Eileen’s Emporium, but it is also produced in stick
form by Carrs. I find that its lower working temperature helps to give a
quick clean joint. Limiting the build up of heat in components, which
may cause distortion. I find that I can hold parts together with my finger
ends and make a joint before heat reaches my fingers or other etched
parts drop off.
I use 60/40, tin/lead, fluxed multicore electrical solder (melting point
about 190°) mainly to keep the iron bits in good condition. As it gives a
slightly stronger joint than 145° I sometimes use it for small spot joints
on handrail wire, lamp brackets etc, but still use extra liquid flux.
For all brass and nickel silver work I use Carrs green label liquid flux.
You will soon get the feel for how much to use but more problems are
caused by too little flux than too much.
Before soldering components together, thoroughly clean both
surfaces along the join line with a glass fibre burnishing brush. Using
your tweezers or a knife blade etc, hold the parts together in the
correct position and, with an old paintbrush, run some flux along the
area to be joined. Still keeping the parts correctly aligned, pick up a
small quantity of solder on the tip of your iron and carry it to the joint
(unlike electrical soldering, when you feed solder into the joint). Hold
the iron against the joint just long enough for the solder to flash
between the parts. Don’t let go of the parts until the solder has cooled
– this takes from five to ten seconds. To run a fillet of solder along a
joint, wait until the solder flashes between the parts and then pull the
molten solder along the joint with the iron tip.
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Three-dimensional parts are formed by folding. On an etched brass
kit, the fold lines are normally half-etched on the inside of the fold.
You’ll be able to fold most parts using smooth-jawed pliers. For longer
parts folding bars are desirable.
Other useful tools include a bench vice, a good pair of tweezers, a set
of Swiss files (get a full set of cheap ones and then buy quality
replacements for the three that you use the most), a pin vice with a
selection of drills from 0.5mm to 2.1mm plus a few larger sizes that
you use regularly (2.6mm for axle bearings etc), some square-nosed
pliers and some very pointed-nosed ones, preferably with smooth
jaws. Buy cheap tools first and duplicate the most used ones with
quality.
Try to complete all high-temperature soldering before attaching any of
the cast whitemetal parts. These can be attached with two-part epoxy
resin such as Devcon or Araldite Rapid. Ensure the surfaces to be
glued are clean and free of grease.
A better alternative is to solder your white metal castings using Carrs
70 degree low melt solder and Carrs red label white metal flux. The
iron should be run at a much lower heat so that you do not melt the
castings. I have a domestic light dimmer switch and plug socket fixed
to a piece of wood, wired up with a lead and 3 amp mains plug to the
input side of the dimmer switch and the output of the dimmer switch
into the plug socket (remember to continue the earth). Plug your 40
Watt iron (25 Watt iron won’t work) with a clean and freshly tinned bit
into this and experiment with adjusting the switch until you find the
range of temperature at which the solder melts, but a scrap casting
does not. Note as the iron is running at a lower voltage it will take
longer to heat up, so when you think the adjustment is correct do
check a few minutes later on another scrap casting to see that it
doesn't melt. Then scribe a mark on the switch knob to indicate this
position.
When attaching white metal fittings to brass the surface of the brass
must be tinned with 145° solder, to allow the solder to grip. The
surface of the casting at the joint should be burnished bright. The
casting can then be soldered into place with 70° solder and fillets of
solder run into any gaps with no risk of melting the casting.
Don’t load the iron tip with a lot of extra solder, but work the joint in 1”
lengths, bringing in small quantities of solder. Brass is a very forgiving
material and if you get something out of alignment, use heat from the
iron to desolder the joint before starting again. For complicated
assemblies, it is a good idea to only tack solder parts together. You
can then make adjustments by desoldering until you are happy with
the location of parts and then solder solid.
When you need to laminate two or more layers of brass together,
align the parts and carefully clamp them together, either in the vice or
by holding them with miniature crocodile clips. Run flux around the
edges, and then go around with the soldering iron. Clean up
thoroughly afterwards.
To fit small parts and overlays on to a larger assembly, such as
strapping to a wagon side, when you need to prevent finely detailed
areas such as planking becoming clogged up with solder. Tin the back
of the small component first, then hold in place on the model and apply
flux. Carefully wipe the tip of your iron on a sponge to remove any
solder from it (dry iron), and then touch it against the parts to be joined.
After a few seconds you’ll see molten solder bubbling from the edges.
Remove the iron, still holding the parts in place, and allow the joint to
cool. An alternative is to use solder paint (I would recommend Carrs
188 solder paste). As the name suggests, this is a flux and solder in
one. Simply apply a thin coat of solder paint to the back of the
component instead of tinning. Still apply a small amount of liquid flux
before you solder the part into place.
Any surplus solder should be removed using a craft knife, I find No 10
curved scalpel blades ideal, then burnish clean with a glass fibre
brush. With practice, you’ll learn how to use the minimum amount of
solder to do the job. Flux is corrosive so, after each soldering session,
give your model a good scrub with washing up liquid or Jif. After a day
or two, any remaining flux residues will show as a green film, which
should be washed away.
To cut parts from the fret, use a sharp Stanley knife on a piece of
hardboard or a pointed scalpel blade on a block of softwood. Remove
tags and burrs with a fine file.
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BOGIE BOLSTER A
25T W32728 C 14-3
BR LETTERING
GWR MACAW H BRITISH RAILWAYS BOGIE BOLSTER A
GWR Livery. All over GWR wagon grey (Railmatch enamel spray N0 1604).
Planked Floor, dirty wood (Humbrol enamel N0 110). White end to brake lever.
Lettering, White (note that lettering position varied between wagons). Transfers
for lettering are available from :- HMRS, 8 Gilpin Green, Harpenden, Herts, AL5
5NR, sheet No 11 GWR goods insignia (they are also stocked by the specialist
0 gauge model shops) or dry rub down transfers from, POW SIDES, Poplars
Farm, Aythorpe Roding, Dunmow, Essex, CM6 1RY.
BR Livery. Bodywork, BR early freight stock grey
(Railmatch No 322). Solebars and bogies, Black. White
lettering on black background patches. Fox Transfers, 138
Main Street, Markfield, Leicestershire, LE67 9UX, Tel
01530 242801. Produce Waterslide type transfers including
black patches onto which the lettering can be built up.
6 X Coupling links
4 X Bolsters
16 X Stanchion
pockets
8 X Stanchions
2 X 6BA Washers
2 X Large Washers
4 X Bogie Side Frames 14 X Split Pins
2 X 6BA Screws
2 X 6BA Nuts
4 X Buffer Bodies
4 X Buffer
Retaining Collars
4 X Buffer Heads
2 X Bogie Stretchers
Parts Identification and Checklist
8” X 1.6mm dia Brass Rod, 5” X Copper Rod (for brake shafts),6” X
0.7mm Brass Wire (for brake linkage), 6” X Spring Steel Wire (for
buffer springing), 12” X 22swg Soft Tinned Wire (for winding lashing
rings). When I made the mould for the castings I included extras for
some of the small castings so hopefully you should have extras to
cover the odd mishap or accident.
Page 4

1
2
2
3
4
4
5
6
7 8
9
10
11
13
12
12
Slots
12”
For the long folds on the body and solebars you will find a set of folding bars very useful
and here are details of the set that I have made for myself, in fact I have made three sets
of different sizes. The dimensions or materials are not critical so make yourself a set to
suit the materials you can get hold of. The important thing is that you can clamp the part
along its entire length, with the etched fold line just above the front bar. Then clamp the
bars in the jaws of your vice, a couple of 1” G clamps are also useful for long folds, and
laying a steel rule at the back of the part to help transfer the pressure from your fingers
evenly, pull forward to make the fold. Once the fold is close to 90° you can finish by
pressing down on it with a block of wood and moving the block along the fold with a
stroking action or by giving gentle taps with a small hammer on the wood block.
Occasionally it is necessary to emboss bolt heads onto a part before folding, by lining the
face of one of the bars with two or three layers of masking tape, you can still clamp the
part without crushing the bolt heads but you wont get such a tight fold, so deepen the fold
line with a triangular file. Deepening the fold line also makes long folds easier.
Page 5

1
2
3
4
4
5 6
6
7 8
8
9
9
10
11
12
Cast Bolsters
These were movable on the
prototype wagon so
positions varied
Cast stanchions and empty pockets.
If desired you can replace the cast
stanchions with brass rod fitted into
empty pockets. On the prototype
wagon the stanchion’s were
movable so positions varied.
Wire ring
Split pin
Copper rod
6BA Nut
Fold end of brake lever
to form handle
GWR MACAW H
BRITISH RAILWAYS
BOGIE BOLSTER A
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GWR MACAW H BOGIE BOLSTER
Suggested Assembly Order
1. Take the main body (part 1) and emboss the bolt heads at each
corner. This is best achieved using a scriber with the point rounded off
slightly on an oil stone. Place the part face down onto a block of
softwood and firmly press the point of the scriber down into the half
etched hole.
Then using bending bars fold up the main body. The suggested order
of folding being the top lips of the sides first, then the main sides, then
the top lip of the ends and finally the ends. For the last fold of the ends
you will not be able to use the bending bars so place the main body on
a flat surface and place a piece of square off cut of 2”X1” wood, hard
down inside the floor. The ends can then be folded up using finger
pressure, the wood ensuring a 90° fold. Ensure that all is square and
then run a fillet of solder into each corner.
Even with bending bars the long folds can be a little tricky. Clamp the
etch into the bending bars as tightly as you can and then clamp one
end of the bending bars in the jaws of your vice. Make a bend through
about 30° for 1/4of the length of the side (about the length that is
supported by the vice jaws). Then move the bending bars along and
re-clamp in the vice jaws to bend the next 1/4of the side through 30°.
Work along to the other end and then work back forming the bend
through 60° and then 90°. Stroking along the bend with a block of
wood or gently tapping the wood block with a hammer can correct any
slight distortion.
My vice is a record No3 and is deep enough to take the floor as I
make the second bend on the side. But if you are not able to use your
vice for this bend you may find it helpful to deepen the fold line by
pushing a triangular file up it until a faint witness mark appears on the
other side of the brass. This should reduce the amount of pressure
required to make the bend and you should manage without the
bending bars being supported in the vice. If you have done this you
may wish to reinforce the fold by running a small fillet of solder
between the plank ends and the side. Solder all four corners and dress
with a file to give a crisp square corner.
2. Fold the top and bottom of the solebars (parts 2) through 90°.
Again us bending bars and work the bend in sections.
3. Take the solebar overlays (parts 3) and check that they will be a
snug fit into the solebar channel. If a little filing of the edges is required
it may be helpful to clamp the overlay into the bending bars to support
it as you dress the edge with a file. Emboss the bolt heads on the
securing ring plates and then solder the overlay into the channel.
To neatly solder the solebar overlay into place I first tin the back of
the overlay and the front face of the solebar. Then solder the overlay to
the solebar at one end and check that the holes for the lashing rings
line up. Then flood plenty of flux underneath the overlay and invert it
onto a piece of scrap strip wood 5mm wide (lengths of this hardwood
are sold as beading in DIY shops and it has hundreds of modelling
uses). Starting from the end that is all ready soldered and pressing the
back of the solebar firmly onto the strip wood with the end of an old
file. I work slowly along the back of the solebar with the tip of my
soldering iron. Keeping the tip of the iron lightly coated with solder to
help the heat transfer.
Work in short sections as you will be getting a lot of heat into the
solebar and you want the solder to cool and hold the overlay flat
before removing the pressure of the file end and moving on to the next
section. Once completed and cooled clean up the front face of the
solebar with a fibreglass brush to remove scorched splinters of wood
etc.
The lashing rings that fit into the holes in the plates on the solebars
are represented by soft wire rings and split pins. Wind the soft tinned
copper wire around a 2.6mm (size for Slater’s axle bearings) drill
shank to form a tight coil (like a spring). Using flush cutting side cutters
snip into the coil to make the
individual rings. Straighten up
each ring with long nosed
pliers and then close each
ring with a spot of 60/40
solder.
Page 7

Thread each ring onto a split pin and then gently squeeze each head
closed again. Thread each split pin through the hole in the solebar and
then splay out each leg of the split pin through 90°. This should hold
the split pin firmly and allow you to set all the
split pin heads vertical in the solebar. Turn the
solebar upside down so that the rings hang
down freely and spot solder from the back of the
solebar the split pins into the holes. Snip off the
legs of the split pins and with a file dress the
remainder flush with the solebar back. You
should now have separate moving lashing rings
to secure a wagon load too and impress your
friends.
4. Emboss bolt heads and fold up the headstocks (parts 4). Solder
coupling plates (parts 5) over the coupling slots but ensure that the slot
remains free from solder.
Now solder the headstocks to the ends of the underside of the floor.
Then solder the solebars to the floor (note etched marks to help with
positioning of the backs of the solebars). You may have to dress the
ends to fit snugly between the headstocks and ensure that the solebar
is the correct way up (refer to scale drawing). The solebar is best
tacked into place first at about 2” intervals. Then solder solid using 1”
tacks rather than trying to solder a continuous fillet as this will avoid
excess heat and the risk of distortion.
5. Take the truss rod queen posts (parts 6) and fold into an L
section. Then solder top ends into slots in underside of floor. Take the
truss rods (parts 7) and carefully fold into L section. Solder centre
section between queen posts. Then bend the outer sections and
solder to back of solebar following the line of the etched bolt heads.
Bend the truss rod cross members (parts 8) into L section and solder
between queen posts across the wagon so that the L rests on the truss
rods. Dress flush with the planked wagon floor any of the queen post
that projects through the slots.
5
6
8 7
6. Drill out holes in Vee hangers (parts 9) to take the copper rod
cross shafts. Then fold the Vee hanger bases (tap the fold with an
hammer and block of wood to get a really tight fold) and offer the Vee
hangers into place on the wagon floor noting the etched marks to help
positioning. The cross shaft holes should just clear the truss rods if you
have folded the bases tightly but if not you could consider snapping off
the bases to shorten the Vee hangers. When happy solder into
position and fit copper rod cross shafts leaving the end of the rods
projecting through the solebar Vee hangers.
Fold up the brake pin guides and brake handles (parts 10 and 11).
Put a blob of flux into the folds of the pin guides and touch the edge
with the iron tip loaded with a spot of 60/40 solder. The flux should
draw the solder into the fold lines to reinforce the pin guide. Solder the
pin guide to the solebar using the folded brake lever to help fix its
position. Fit brake lever and solder at vee hanger and from the rear of
the pin guide.
Page 8

If your wagon is to receive rough handling you may wish to replace
the cast stanchions with brass rod. If this is the case fit eight empty
pockets to each side. Drill out the pockets 1.6mm and fit 25mm long
lengths of brass rod. It is best to drill out the pockets after they have
been soldered to the wagon side as you will have more control over
the drill. It is a good idea to drill the hole part way through from the top
and bottom as this will reduce the risk of the drill wondering and
breaking through the side of the pocket.
6. Take the bogie mounting blocks (parts 12) and solder 6BA nuts
over the holes. This is best done by first polishing the six sides of each
nut with a flat file. Then lock each nut into place with a screw that has
a washer between the screw head and the outside face of the bearing
plate. If you put a spot of light oil onto the screw thread this will prevent
solder creeping in and locking everything solid. Now solder the nut into
place using a generous amount of solder so that the solder flows all
around the nut and part way up each of the six sides.
Then fold up the mounting blocks and solder to the underside of the
floor locating into the etched grooves (note the etched centre line
marks to help with positioning).
7. Open out with a tapered reamer the location holes in the sides to
take the cast stanchion pockets. With a large course file dress the
sides and ends of the cast wooden bolsters to remove any part lines
and imperfections. You may also wish to distress the castings with the
file, as these wooden bolsters got very battered on the prototype
wagon. Fit the bolsters to the floor of the wagon. These bolsters were
movable to different positions but the photograph shows a typical
arrangement.
Fit four empty pockets and four with stanchions in to each side.
These stanchions were movable and would be fitted into different
pockets depending upon the requirements of the load being carried.
Page 9

8. Drill out the back of the buffer bodies 2.1mm to take the shank
and 4.2mm from the front to take the wide part of the shank/head. Fit
buffer heads/shanks into the bodies and check that they will depress
fully and turn within the body freely. You may have to open the holes to
2.2mm and 4.3mm to achieve full depression. If the heads are tight to
turn, give them a few twists and then look for shiny high spots on the
shank. Dress these off with a file. Once happy fit a retaining collar onto
the back of the shank so that the slot is level with the end of the shank.
Open out the holes in the headstocks and fit the buffers.
Make up the six coupling links and fit them into the coupling hooks
(parts 13).
I close up the links by holding the curved end in the jaws of a pair of
round-nosed pliers in one hand and squeeze the flat parts of the link
parallel with long-nosed pliers (angled long-nosed pliers with serrated
jaws are even better) held in the other hand. When I have six even-
shaped closed links, I open each one slightly with long-nosed pliers
and thread three together. The last link passes through the hole in the
coupling hook. I reinforce the joint of each link with a spot of 60/40
solder.
Pass a coupling hook through the slot in the headstocks and retain it
with a length of spring wire (make sure that the ends of this wire don’t
jamb on the solebars). Polish the centre of this wire with emery cloth
first so that you can solder it to the coupling hook shank once you are
happy that the buffers spring freely.
Retaining Collar
Spring Steel Wire Solder
BUFFER ASSEMBLY
Bogie mounting block
Large packing
washer
Page 10

9. Assemble the bogies. Drill out the holes in the
side frames 2.6mm to accept the brass bearing
cups. You may find that the holes are slightly out of
square so put a little sideways pressure on the drill
to square them up. Keep checking the depth of the
hole with a bearing as you don’t want to drill to deep
and come through the front of the axle box.
There are cut outs on the bogie stretcher to clear the wheel flanges. Offer up a wheel to
check that these correspond and adjust slightly with a round file if necessary.
Place a pair of wheels onto a flat surface with the bearings on the axle ends and fit the
sideframes over the bearings. Drop the bogie stretcher into place between the sideframes.
With Slater’s wheels you will probably find that the stretcher is slightly short. So file a little
from the raised rings on the back of the bogie sideframes so that the bearings will sit slightly
deeper allowing the sideframes to come closer together.
Once you are happy that the stretcher is a good fit and the sideframes are square to the
wheels. Disassemble, fit bearings into the holes with a blob of Evo-Stick, re assemble on a
flat surface and solder stretcher to sideframes. Check that all is square. It is important to get
the joint between stretcher and sideframes as strong as possible so solder at both the top
and underside. It may be a good idea to make the underside joint with 145° solder and the
iron on full heat, but be quick!
Cut outs for flanges
Page 11

Fit coil spring and then a brass washer onto the bogie fixing screw
thread and then screw the bogie into place. Try the wagon on your
layout and if you find that the buffer height is low. I have included steel
packing washers to fit between the top of the bogie stretcher and the
underside of the wagon. After painting smear a blob of Evo-Stick
around the inside of the nut thread before reassembly and this will
prevent the screw working lose during running. You should still be able
to crack the glue joint and remove the screw if you need to remove the
bogies.
Fit a lengths of 0.7mm brass wire to wrap around the copper brake
cross shaft and run down to just underneath the inboard axle of each
bogie to represent the brake linkage. That should now be all the
physical construction completed.
10. Painting is a vast subject that cannot be covered fully here. The
important thing with a metal model is to get a good base coat of
primer. Hopefully you have been cleaning up and washing the model
at the end of each modelling session, but it will still need thoroughly
cleaning before painting. I give my models a good scrub with a stiff-
bristled paint brush in a sink full of hot (as hot as your hands can bear)
water and cheap washing up liquid (the expensive stuff that’s kind to
your hands has an oil in it that will stop the paint keying to the metal). If
you know somebody who works in catering and can scrounge you
some industrial-strength liquid this is better still. Then rinse the model
a couple of times in clean warm water and place in a dust-free box to
dry. I use car aerosol primer and Halfords grey primer is one of the
best. For the best results you want to spray at room temperature
(25°C) on a dry (avoid cold, damp or humid) day. I find it helps to warm
the model to about 30°C (put it in the airing cupboard overnight) and I
warm up the paint tin by putting it onto a radiator (about 40°C, but use
your common sense as I don’t want anybody blowing themselves up). I
find it best to prime the model in two light coats, about 15 minutes
apart and then leave for 48 hours to harden off (in the airing cupboard
in a dust-free box).
I brush-paint my models with Humbrol enamel. For years I just stirred
it up and painted straight from the tin but I was never completely happy
with the results. Recently two things have transformed my painting.
The first was a copy of Martyn Welch’s book, The Art of Weathering,
Wild Swan Publications, ISBN 1 874103 11 9. Martyn’s basic
techniques are very useful and almost foolproof. Martyn’s method of
creating worn and weathered planking for wagon floors by blending
brown and grey paints to form a base. Then dry brushing darker
shades to represent the wood grain is particularly effective on this type
of wagon.
0.7mm brass wire brake linkage
Page 12

The second thing is to mix the paint in the tin and then transfer it to a
palette (a sheet of clean plasticard) with blobs of lighter and darker
shades of paint surrounding the main colour. Then work the paint with
the brush on the palette, slightly varying the tones of the paint. This
seems to totally change the texture of the paint and the way it goes on
and covers on the model.
For more information and photographs of the prototype wagon I
would recommend, GWR Goods Wagons, Atkins, Beard & Tourret,
Tourret Publishing, ISBN 0-905878-07-8. Get it from your local library
via their book order system.
Can You Help Me?
If you have enjoyed building this kit and have been satisfied with the
quality, I would be most grateful if you could recommend it to your
friends and fellow modellers. Although my kits are not perfect, I try to
put a lot of time and effort into producing them. If I can get extra sales
of a kit through customer’s personal recommendation and I find that
word of mouth is the best form of advertising. This will help me to put
extra time and money into developing the next kit. Hopefully this will
give me more satisfied customer to recommend my kits to their friends.
If you are not happy with this kit then please tell me. Hopefully I will
then be able to help and sort out any problem.
Page 13

GWR MACAW H
BR Bogie Bolster A
Page 14